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5 City Angelsof Bangkok is a cut-and-thrust BUSINESS METROPOLIS with an almost mythical spiritual centre, where ancient rituals remain as important as commercial drive. text Mark Eveleigh

THE RISING SUN glints smoothly on the faces of Bangkok’s sky- scrapers while, down below, its rays are shattered by rearing waves on the 6 surface of the . Even from my high-rise window, I can see that the so-called River of Kings is running with a dramatic swell that would be more suited to a seascape than a major inland city. HIGH TIME Insulated in the glass cocoon of my Shangri-La suite, 29 storeys above the riverbank, I watch another day beginning in what is surely one of the most fascinating capitals in the world. I’ve always been delighted by the fast pace of life down on the city streets and along the waterways but, perhaps because this is a city without hills, there’s an undeniable >

1. A bicycle excursion through the lush plantations just outside Bangkok 2. The Bangkok skyline seen from a long-tail boat 3. A culinary highlight 4. Khao San Road backpacker quarter 5. Chakrabongse Villas 6. The Chinatown district 7. Bicycles from Co van Kessel Bicycle and Boat Tours 7 Bartjan Eveleigh Mark Bouman, Cedric Arnold, 62 /TRAVEL /Bangkok bustle says my guidePrem assheintroduces metotheprimrose-yellow shopping- populace, who are grateful for achancetoimprove theirkarma. monks are returning withalms bowls loadedwithofferings from thelocal even the thickest rush-hour traffic, andwithin who operate Bangkok’s iconictuk-tuks, have aknackfor dashingthrough tackling Bangkok’s ofanengine. notorioustraffic withoutthebenefit more than20tripstothisthrillingcity, Ihave grave reservations about backstreet quartersby bicycle. I’m dubiousabout thistourbecause, after backwater residential area. Ocean –seemsoverly grand thesedays for what isnow apretty little TreasuresBuri SriMaha Samut –which meansCityof Gracing the theSiamesekingdomuntil1782but itsfullname,the capital Thon of load thebikes ontoaferrythat isboundfor thewest bank.Thonburi was ofChinatown mycoffeeand help Prem traffic, soIgulp down thelast Bangkok andawonderful placeforof cycling.” cycle that willbemy mountfor themorning.“Thonburi isthesleepy side cross-city journeyintoanexhilarating rollercoaster ride. transport options(bothonwater andland)that canturnamundane canals. We peddle pastBuddhist is afresh outlookas we cycle over hump-backed bridgesandalongside sidealleys that are mistywiththesteamfromof riceandnoodlestands. already Chinatown anddown roaring asection undertheneonsignsof thrill togettinguphighinBangkok, andenjoying theview from farabove after aceremonyafter inChinatown selling exotic snacks 3. Astreet the stall inKlong GrandPalace 4.A buspassing San 5.Astreet stall 1. inChinatown 2.Bangkok’s boat seenfrom alongtail skyline biggest citiesare atiresome slog totravel around, but Bangkok haslively greetings asIstroll past,towards theworld’s themainroad. Somany of wai Phraya River. Thetaxidrivers nearthehotel greet mewiththetraditional multi-storey shoppingcentres. the world’sand skybridges offeraccessbetween someof biggest centre alleyways. Officesrisehigh over traditional residential quarters, business centre, highabove thebleating tuk-tuksandchoked-up hawker- 500 skyscrapers. Thefast,efficient sky train carriescommuters across the acitythatin therarefied isestimated stratosphere tohave of more than the temples, palaces andgrittyalleyways. 1864), and it has seen a lot of changes. Inlessthan10minutes,1864), andithasseenalotof we’re face. Thisissaidtobe the firstmodern road built inThailand(around down Charoen KrungRoad withthenatural air-con flying full blast in my klongs (canals) sawat dikhagreeting from theresidents. I’ve explored thetangleof representing areal yellow-peril inthenarrow alleys –meritsacheerful friendliness, andeven aconvoy custard-coloured shoppingbikes – of ciate bolan.Iparticularly café appre- coffee standandIorder a strong cupof –handstogether insalutation withaslightbow –but Ireturn their BANGKOK BIKERGANG The tuk-tukdriver setsmedown –withanotherwai After decompressing highupovernight, I’mready toreturn tothe THE NEEDFORSPEED “The monksare allowed toeat only upuntilmidday,” Prem Bangkok“I’m taking you that few toseeasideof visitorsever see,” This soundsmore enticingthanamorningrush-hourboutwiththe A whole upper echelon of rooftop bars, andskyA whole upperechelon cafés terraces of loom thecaffeinejoltthismorningsinceI’m about to explore Bangkok’s of thestreet, and,even below theChao that, of tothechoppy waters of around Thonburi many timesby long-tailboat, but this 6. Spicy bird’s-eye chillies Thai peopleare world-famous for their temples andmonasterieswhere barefoot 7. returnMonks to their temple moments, –besidealocal I’m already flying The street pilots,

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operate Bangkok’s iconic for dashingthrough even “ tuk-tuks, have a knack tuk-tuks, haveaknack the thickest rush-hour the thickestrush-hour this luxurious 26-storey hotel six dining boasts street-level restaurant’s nameisderived from The street pilots,who the view from 61storeys above the business property. You dineright can onthe riverbank this boutique hotel were transported here by district ofSathon, you’ll why understand this deck, five-star style ona champagne style cruise, deck, five-star temple celebrating theThai finest food you’ll rendezvous pool(18th floor) andthe infinity with incredible views over the River ofKings. direct from the recipe books ofthe owner’s outlets (evenoutlets a“Chocolate Boutique”) along dining onanunforgettable six-course meal ever eat, prepared by the famous Chef Ton. The Yao Rooftop Bar(33rd floor)isalready 89 Soi Wat89 Soi SuanPlu, New Road, Bangrak seafood andyou’ll why understand people the Thai prince whosefamily still owns the Bangkok Marriott Hotel Surawongse The Perched onthe high barstools overlooking Surawongse isalready making anamefor The romantic riverside villas that make up Le Dumight soundFrench butthis hidden One ofthe premier inBangkok, addresses venue Vertigo. iscalled Sample the fresh Experience the ChaoPhraya River intop- itself as oneofBangrak’s chicest hotels. a Thai word meaning “seasons” andisa ranking rooftop among best the city’s on specialities that were traditionally secret-retreats.com/chakrabongse Opened inearly 2018,the Marriott traffic” Shangri-La Hotel, Bangkok are raving aboutthis place. prepared for Thai royalty.

supannigacruise.com Chakrabongse Villas Chakrabongse Moon Bar&Vertigo WHERE TO SLEEP Supanniga Cruise WHERE TO EAT banyantree.com grandmother. marriott.com ledubkk.com is stunning. Le Du

Cedric Arnold, Mark Eveleigh, Bartjan Bouman Cedric Arnold, Mark Eveleigh, Bartjan Bouman 5 4 1 6 2 3 7 TRAVEL /63 64 /TRAVEL /Bangkok 5 4 2 1 6 3 7 8

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“A whole upper echelon

of rooftop bars, cafés and explain. “Because they fast in the afternoon, the poor can ask for a meal sky terraces loom in the simply by visiting a temple later in the day.” We cycle several miles and, as Prem had promised, I see a new and rarefied stratosphere” alluring side to the city by the time we stop at a roadside stall to eat grilled toast and condensed milk. Thai food has become justly famous world- wide and Bangkok is surely one of the most exciting gastronomic cities in the world. There are enough exotic flavours to challenge the most adven- turous of gourmands, but even the humblest of snacks are often trans- formed into something exciting here. WHAT TO DO Ayutthaya – the ancient capital ALLEYWAY 61 REVISITED Take a step back in Thai history on a day- No matter what your taste in retail therapy is, Bangkok is a shopper’s trip to historic Ayutthaya (80 km north of paradise that is home to some of the best shopping centres in the world. Bangkok), capital of Siam for about four There are said to be about 200 of them in the city, including high-rise centuries (from 1350) and now a fascinating highlights like Central Chidlom (with its unforgettable 7th-floor Food UNESCO World Heritage Site. Asian experts Loft) and the ultra-chic Siam Paragon (where you can even shop for an Backyard Travel can arrange day-trips that Aston Martin or a Bentley). Less well known, but perhaps among the include a return on a Chao Phraya River quirkiest, is Terminal 21. Styled on an airport concourse, this shopping lunch cruise. centre has 10 floors, each with a different country as its theme. Central- backyardtravel.com World is the world’s 11th-biggest shopping centre, but even its 495 stores pale into insignificance next to . Food Tours Boasting 15,000 stalls and attracting about 200,000 people each The best Bangkok food tours also offer weekend, Chatuchak is said to be the world’s biggest market. Within unique insights into everyday life in the minutes of entering, I’m already hopelessly lost in what seems to be a City of Angels. Chinatown is frequently rabbit warren of stalls selling everything you can imagine (minus perhaps a highlight but the area around Phra the Aston Martins and Bentleys). This incredible market covers an area Nakhon (Banglamphu) is unbeatable for that is about the same as 20 football pitches, and I’ve been in the market local colour. Backyard Travel collaborate for half an hour when I spot a sign advising me that I’m on Alleyway 61. with a network of some of the most It’s afternoon when I eventually emerge onto the road, staggering like a knowledgeable and enthusiastic guides in worker ant under the weight of my purchases, near Alleyway 1. the city. Chatuchak is best visited on Saturday morning (when many Bang- backyardtravel.com kokians are still working), as by afternoon, the crowds are already thick at the sky-train ticket machines. So I flag down a taxi, and in no time I’m Cycling Bangkok’s Islands back in the city centre. Thai people know the city simply as Krung Thep. Few visitors realise that, apart from joining a “Bangkok” is mostly used by foreigners, and dates back three centuries to city cycling tour, it’s also possible to cycle a a time when the city was a celebrated trading port. couple of Thai islands without even leaving After the subterranean world of Chatuchak Market, it’s a real pleasure the capital. Koh Kret (just take the Chao to spend an hour or so basking by the infinity pool that cascades from Phraya commuter ferry to Nonthaburi and the 18th floor of the new Bangkok Marriott Hotel The Surawongse. To the a long-tail from there) is an idyllic little southeast, I can see the city’s tallest tower, MahaNakhon (314 m), looming island community that you can explore in over the business centre, etched with its fascinating cubist spiral. half a day. Bigger Bang Kra Jao (about the Later I head westwards, enticed by the river. I want to catch a Chao same size as the old city itself) is often Phraya Express Boat commuter ferry that will take me down the majestic described as Bangkok’s “green lung”, and sweep of the river towards the old trading area, which was once haunted is networked with peaceful cycle trails that by clippers and junks, but is now the evening entertainment area known as will offer a blissful rural escape from the The Riverfront. More than 40 restaurants and 1,500 shops have frantic pace of the city. Co van Kessel run been established in what were – for many years – abandoned wharf-side excellent bicycle tours through Bangkok. warehouses, traditionally known as “go-downs”. covankessel.com I’ve come here to check out Asiatique Sky, a giant Ferris wheel that looms over the ancient wharf. From 60 m above the go-downs, I watch as the sun begins to bow over the River of Kings, the life-blood of a city, which, no matter how often you visit, always surpasses expectations.

1. An iconic tuk-tuk 2. Bangkok’s skyline and the Chao Praya river seen in the evening Kenya Airways operates non-stop daily 3. Asiatique’s shops and ferris wheel 4. Chef Ton at work in Le Du 5. A man reads flights to Bangkok from Nairobi’s the morning paper 6. A couple delivering lunch to boat crews on the Chao Phraya River Jomo Kenyatta International Airport. 7. A Taittinger dinner cruise on the River of Kings 8. Octave Rooftop Lounge & Bar Cedric Arnold, Mark Eveleigh Mark Cedric Arnold,