desert

AN EXTRAORDINARY DESERT ADVENTURE Words and images: Emma George

here are road trips and then there are giving travellers distances to nearest towns and extraordinary experiences! Tackling roads. Some of these markers we found, many the West Australian desert with three others had been souvenired unfortunately. young kids may sound crazy, but The markers became our challenge so Texploring the and Karlamilyi we’d know exactly what to look for. One was (Rudall River) National Park is something we the milestone of the North Territory and Western were really excited about. Australian border – finally back in our home state We’d been on the road for months, of WA, but more remote than ever and not a car conquering Cape York, the Gulf and Arnhem to be seen all day. Land, but my husband, Ashley, and I, with We rolled out our map of on the our three young boys in tow wanted one last red dirt in the middle of the road showing the adventure before heading home to . kids exactly where we were, where we’d been Deserts are dangerous places, so months and where we were going. Our next stop was were spent planning this trip, making sure to refuel at Kiwirrkurra, a small Aboriginal town we had enough food and water for five days, and one of the most remote communities in permits, spares, and repair kits for the car and the world. camper as well as safety procedures, a satellite phone, EPIRB, accessible fire extinguisher, first aid and a nightly call-home regime. After our Nissan Patrol’s major service in Clockwise from top left: Spinifex can be lethal if it catches on fire under your car. The iron-rich rock hills provided a great , we were confident enough to face look out over our campsite. Burnt out trucks and cars are a constant reminder that deserts are the 2000 kilometres of dirt through parts of the rough on vehicles and dangerous places if you are not well prepared. The Gibson is rich in reptiles. Gibson, Little Sandy and Big Sandy deserts. Wild camels are a feral pest. The wildflowers in the desert had to be seen to be believed. We were fortunate to observe such a harsh environment in full bloom. Also, to navigate one of the iconic roads built in the 1960s by , the explorer that bulldozed most of the roads through the Western Desert such as the and Sandy Blight Junction Road. A wave of sadness engulfed me as we drove in. We have visited many Aboriginal communities distance. Before long we turned into the well Desert Queens Baths in Rudall River about Being October, things were beginning to This is a community of hardship and poverty. Our on our travels, but this one was different; maybe and were happy to find fellow travellers. On 700 kilometres. heat up, but we were horrified when the car boys had trouble understanding that people lived because it was so remote. Our children never go chatting, we discovered that most of them were Fuel being a priority we hoped to get some started to heat up too! When we hit the dirt, in these conditions and I felt ashamed that I’d been without and this was a real eye-opener for them planning to tackle the Wapet Road and Kidson from the store in Kunawarritji before we headed the temperature soared past 100 degrees and complaining about a lack of airconditioning when and me. Seeing how these children survived, my Track north to the coast at . to Newman. Stopping at another Beadell we had no other option than to switch off the these people suffer through scorching summers boys realised how lucky they were. As we set up camp, the kids couldn’t resist marker, I called the Kunawarritji store on the airconditioning and wind down the windows. with nothing more than a tent for a house. Once refuelled we climbed back into the getting under the water pump and playing in satellite phone to let them know we’d be arriving. Wind and dust were flying through the car and We soon found the general store and looked dusty Patrol and came upon Beadell’s old ration the mud. And, while I was happily thinking that The last thing we wanted was to miss the store with the noise I could barely hear the kids in for someone to open the fuel pump. No self truck down the road. Apparently it caught on I didn’t have to ration the water that night, there and have to wait two nights until it opened again the back let alone see them. How ironic, just service here! We’d arrived well before closing, fire in 1960 when they were working on the road was a loud bang; thunder boomed from above; Monday morning. The store manager met us when you need airconditioning is the one time but it seemed Kiwirrkurra is serviced from Alice and the stories are legendary about Beadell the heavens opened up and lightning danced at the bowser and it was lucky that we already it can’t be used! Springs and they run on time. being hit by a pot of exploding stew and pea along the desert sands. had fuel in the tank because this was the most Travelling for us is all about the adventure The remotest part of the world and no fuel! soup and how he shot a hole in the boiling water We had been on the road for three months expensive diesel of our trip at $3.20/litre! and this was just beginning. Instead of dull, flat Luckily for us the store operator was a good tank behind the cabin and made a cup of tea! and it had only rained one day. A thunderstorm in We went into their wonderful airconditioned sandy desert it was breathtakingly beautiful bloke and let us fill our car up. Finding suitable camp spots in the desert is the desert is a real treat – what a thrill – imagine store and I could have stayed forever! What a and full of life. After the summer rains, the The local kids crowded around smiling a challenge because there’s not much shelter, the smell of the wet dirt and fresh foliage. It was treat to find a shop with ice-cream so we all country was a patchwork of spinifex, shrubs, and saying hello. A happy, gorgeous bunch of but this night was an exception. I had heard extraordinary as we’d been breathing dust every indulged and I told the kids they could have low lying trees, wild flowers and Sturt Desert kids who showed us their art and around their Jupiter’s Well was a good place to stop and we inch of the way. anything they wanted, but didn’t realise the peas. Stunning. community centre where we looked at some of pushed on to arrive before dark. Once the kids were in bed we studied the store owners would offer them one of their Beadell, throughout his pioneering days way their work, but I was distracted by the sparse As the sun set we found the vegetation map searching for the next place to camp cute puppies! ‘Food only,’ I quickly added. As before GPS, had left markers along the tracks amount of old toys, clothing and equipment. became shrubbier and saw larger trees in the and, not having too many choices, aimed for it turned out every town offered us a puppy

34 | GO CAMPING AUSTRALIA GO CAMPING AUSTRALIA | 35 4000

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y RUDALL FACT FILE ht Balgo Rabbit Flat Eig s dson RIVER Getting thereWal l–al TheDow n fire Lake Gregory Mt Davi Sand 457 Gary Junction Road Mt Elliott Tanami Downs The Granites HISTORY traverses almost 600 Mt Stewart 429 D E S E R T The Rudall River was named by Frank N D Y 381 km predominantly through WA and is T S A De Grey rthy G R E A Hann after the surveyor and explorer commonlyMt G oaccessedldswo from Alice Springs or Lake Dennis nd S William Frederick Rudall (pronounced Hedla Marble 1Bar.22 Karlamilyi National Park is 260 km T Port Karlamilyi NP A S De go Grey N la h ke White Roo-dal, with stress on the second e east of Newman and, atR i1.5ver million hectares, is S La ip nd a h Isla ana M rc gendre abullang w Muccan agine and we could have returned home with a truck Soon the spinifex closed in around us on this Le Mund arraw O syllable). To the Aboriginal people who A Australia’s largest and probablyW its mostG remote r R e t R Chilla Well i Poin nya r E ng aree E load of them! narrow road and Ashley was doing his best rally live in this remote desert region, it is p lopi Wall e S am national park. v G m Wickh i R R O A s a Y Wills Another day’s driving in the heat and driver impersonation as he swerved bushes, I R y Lake called Karlamilyi, and the nameebell oof the D pier rne u karlycarl ont am bou l Y Wua 2012 Australia) (Geoscience Australia of © Commonwealth M D Roe e Lake akes reek When to go – July and Augustr are the best rcival L im C Edga Pe dust without the airconditioner and we finally taking side tracks when the road fell away, all park was changed to acknowledge this Wh Mt Bar ke atha arble Tobin La Karr months.M Avoid the desert371 during summerR as it is Mt Singleton p A arrived at Rudall River. The kids were hungry the time trying to keep the car’s momentum in 2008. apet Cam w I W C P 807 arro A B dangerously hoto and winter nights can be cold. rra e T A so we stopped to cook a snag and then they up in the soft sand. I bit my tongue and was o ya R Yande in E Telfer R R n O e R i g R E These desert-dwelling Aborigines i v a U g g l S s v a E ughan Spring went crazy rolling down the red dunes. As we hanging on for dear life but after five kilometres a R A e e l Va s A a u k O R s I L B r Wherer to camp – Jupiter’s Well, CKAY T n MA belong to the Warnman, Gardutjarra, a Fo Clockwise from left: P N o N LAKE ie v ate, we sat spellbound and admired another of twisting, barely visible track – there was no P Mard rtes illside T e c Theue impressive dry Lake Auld gave us an Desert QueenH Baths, Watrara Pool, e H R a n r R A e Dor n R ine ak Mandjildjarra and Ngulibardu language A Nullag O L spectacular desert sunset. We then attempted going back. ry excuse to let the car cool down. Summer S a eam Tjingkulatjatjarra Pool. S groups. The Warnman ranged Mfrom the Millstr yah E rains had brought the desert aliveo owithlaw abirdsn of prings L kburn Newhaven to wash the kids and settled them back into their Stopping several times to remove the R C Bamboo S L Lake Auld Mt Coc prey suchnica as this whistling kite. The GibsonCH Central Mount Wedge headwaters of Karlamilyi (Rudall River), Pannawo ICH R 845 car seats. It was pitch black as we negotiated needle-like grass from the undercarriage of slow ESTE Preparation – Prepare well beforewns you A Mt Webb On is richH in reptiles. R R Noreena Do Tabletop Lake Bennett ANGE R ke south to about the 23rdF parallel, east to A embark on a trip through the desert. You lanche La 531 i B Is L 427 the slopes and slowly rock hopped along a the car and avoid risk of fire, we were actually iron ulla M v Mu dam F e U Pee o A the and north to E rt r pe R y need to have aes reliablec and well serviced Tietkens R windy track into Desert Queen Baths. It was worried and revisited our safety plan – Ashley Ca G ersle ue Mt West S Ham E Mt Liebig orth LE ll 543 R N take in Lakes Dora, Blanche,H George y Hi k Y 4WD vehicle,Mari ldependablelana Ro communication O Kintore now 10.00 pm and we set up camp in the dark with the fire extinguisher at his feet and me T ree R T mouth C N and Auld.Ex U s I isler equipment, maps, GPS, sufficientlfour Dow nfood and K Mt Le hoping we’d chosen a good location. with the satellite phone on my lap. Ready to O t Samson R Ba Duck M A N lawana 897 M 80 Ta I love driving at night as it’s always a surprise unbuckle the kids at the first hint of danger we The western desert people were one 10 GE water and ensure someone has your full Macdonald X se Lake month Roadhou e Lear E utarra loo om Pric k in the morning to open the tent and look outside! had no choice but to keep going as there was Nan Wy T arry itinerary. Research exactly where you are ree of the last in Australia to bere yaffected Mt Meh C Yan R 0 nt The scene took my breath away. What I saw was still fifteen kilometres of nightmare track to go. by European encroachment. It was A 125 going, speakman with people about the current sappointme aroo S Mt New iggalong Lake Di U H dey 057 J beyond all expectations; a natural pool fringed The car began to sink into the sand and not until the late 1800s that explorers B Har conditions1 and know where you can buy fuel, U doo ewman ry o R arabur N vo S E R T by trees and enclosed by stunning iron-rich red then sank up to the running boards. Full of ingalo T P what permits you require, where you can a G I B S O N D E beganN crossing this region. From 1872– ON S Lake Hopkins cliffs. A true oasis in the middle of the desert. adrenaline, I jumped out, grabbed the shovel 74, Colonel Peter Egerton Warburton access water and possible campsites.Mundiwindi ave owns Lake Neale Winning Mt Palgr shburton D S E R T We felt like the first explorers discovering this and stared digging whilst Ashley let down all the crossed the western deserts, northR of 95 A ree Creek D Y D E 6 arra Tu Further information – Visit L E S A N al Bay on Ullaw ns L I T T spot because we’d not seen another tourist in tyres further and shovelled like a crazy digging RudallCor River, on his journeynd from Alice Bulloo Dow BLOODS RA Ly www.dec.wa.gov.au and search ‘karlamilyi’. Lake 0 R 0 G I N a 0 jar the park. The older boys went rock climbing dog all the while promising that0 if he had to V Kaltukat Springs0 to Roebourne. It wasO during K R 0 0 EN E E Amadeus 4 2 R 0 O N R T A River) 2 E RA S W (Docker in the red hills whilst the younger boys and I shovel all night, disconnect the camper and C TH TY E LI this journey that he incorrectly fixedH the F N L R ernon LO W SON PETE a ury yo A Mount V RA RMA ily Ri R illiamb ns N lazed in the shade and admired the beauty of winch us out he would get us outic oandrn we’d position of Joanna Spring,in a mistakeve A W N apr M r k RA of C rd Cree tion S Yulara our oasis. be saved! Tropic Minilya Giffo R tus Giles Meteorological Sta that partlyo contributed to the deaths of Cobra unt Augus Kata Tjuta/Mt Olga Gnaralo s Mo a I tried to put the youngest one down for a The kids started to laugh at the frenzied two men from the Calvert Expedition t Augustu A Kumarin 1066 M 5 R K 110 R rnside Stevenson Peak E E Bu day sleep doing my best to create a Coolgardie spectacle of their parents shovelling as if of 1896, which passed east of the area mullah LI Lake N uda L don a) KE E A ds O Mt Essen Oneahibung 1025 A N R dlan C ( safe using two battery powered fans and a wet possessed, and we all started to laugh regardless L netharra G Woo 910 lenayle now covered by the park. E r in R A G ier D Y BU R Cuv EO D e D ape ACL AL N C M Y v vers blanket over his portacot. Being October it was of our predicament. Running through my mind na i W ree Ri O ckburn athu Th V Mt Co ba ard coyne R b M R s TheQu ofirst European explorations of the R Ga iver ilgun NA 1134 A ADVENTURESR M ARMADE EASY W ner getting hotter every day and the only solution was the worst case scenario, but in reality we C anan en or Generals Cor re Lake Buch Lake Bread A Survey Rudall River area came in 1896–97,Ga ount Cle R MANN Amata sc M k B RAS to the heat was to hit the road and aim for could set up camp and call for help, and we o Landor ds Cree U T yne Ne ranite Peak ie O M when surveyor William Frederick Rudall 10 second setup, 30 second stow G Carneg RT K the coast. had enough food and water for almost a week. Lake Lake urton O t Squires INSO rvon Warb N M N RAS led a party of menC ainr nsearcha of George ction Gregory Nabberu R It was a shame to leave Rudall River, but Many attempts later, the car finally dislodged ier I yne Jun Dust, water andR insectPeak H iproofll negie A 704 Bern Gasco r OB Lake Car Jones and Charles Wells, the missing reek Trilba IN SO RAS Dairy C n Riv N we decided to return and explore it during the itself and, hot and bedraggled, we limped our so er unyu Unparalleledhi Quality C men I from the Calvert Expedition.ggee rc cooler months. We were just about finished our way up the escarpment onto rocky ground as Dorre AY Eda wns u ARK B Carey Do M SH River Full 5M oyearorarie warranty desert journey and, what should have been a the sun was setting. Someone else who was in the area W tstation Karalundi ooram nt Hale Ou straightforward trip to the , soon As the night closed in and we were tion el garra Mou Inscripat aboutEN theHAM same time was Frank Berin Baker Cape D nkey Mia as became our biggest challenge. exhausted, we had to find a campsite. My wish H Hann.S OHannUND wasM ao versatile and arra Wiluna Lake Mt Sir Thom inga Koonm ells 5 Yar Yalardy Lake W 80 My husband had the great idea of being a was granted forthwith as the ridge flattened out wide-ranging prospector, surveyor and ay og I ham arra Lake W bit more adventurous and taking a slight ‘short to reveal a campsite overlooking the brilliant rk Hart Den Meekath Di explorer who was investigating the area r s Loop bur Useles n Cur e cut’ to save a few kilometres. We inspected the evening desert sands and the stunning red meli v for stockgrazing. Hann, thenHa about i Point A onganoo ep ool R R an W start of the track, which didn’t even have a name desert below. The stars were shining brighter Ste enri P ake Anne 60 years old, enteredH the Broadhurstn LD L cinet Hameli Kalli E ubba Frey W Yarrab s e Throssell and it was then I should have put my foot down. tonight than ever before and we agreed that Range, just north of therbou park,r on 31 dow Beebyn Albion Down Maiden Lak Ha Mea Tuckanarra Mt I should have known better, but I didn’t want to this final evening in the magnificent Western May, 1897. He continued south to the e 590 R T mala Mt Good A D E S E Ta NICHOL Bandya V I C T O R I dampen hubby’s enthusiasm, so I reluctantly Australian desert was a fitting last evening to river, then north-east to Lake Misery SON RA 558 Yeo Lake G R E A T rie ue Lake en Barlowee Wittenoom C ason agreed to give it a go. an extraordinary adventure. (later renamed Lake Dora by Rudall rren Nerr Mt 428 Mount tin Lake M Darlot bery Ne Lake Aus Cosmo New Yamarna n Booylgoo Leinster after his fiancée Dora Miller). He tried o rest ide pring is New Fo Lakes S h Agnew I A his hand prospecting for gold near c ne L sto Photography: Brett Straughan r Sand R A n u T Erlistou ite Cliffs Serpentine Lakes Mt Eva before heading south to the yne r S i Wh Station M Nerram e A U Namb Trips are not just about what you see and where you go, but the experiences that Eurardy Lake iv McKay Range and then westwards. As R ie t Magnet Tard Moun ton stay with you forever. When we returned to Perth we wanted to do something for the arri bbie Laver he approached the area nearKalb Hanging ring Hill Yoweraga ndie Rason Wyola children we met in Kiwirrkurra and the surrounding communities. Talle Lake Noo Lake Lake Rock, and was running short of water, 4434 models Jubilee Lake Ajana h lley G g Yalgoo Ida Va Leonora E u to choose from Valley Through our kids’ school and playgroup we filled a pallet and, with much thanks to he saw smoke in the distance.E He o Oak L n La ey V pton e ke Lake Car I ortham e rra ABC Transport and WA Freight Group, we arranged transport of much-needed clothing followed the smoke and ‘bumpedN into’ N r Youanga Cashmere K G ar a Pind ee Downs and boxes of presents for the Aboriginal children who often don’t receive anything for Rudall and his search party in a place ullew Wydg R C M a H e A M: 0408 828 069 E: [email protected] www.sarooftoptents.com.aurlee Kookynie s Christmas and hopefully put a few smiles on those beautiful children’s faces. later named Meeting Gorge.p N Lake Ba i inigwal i Grou N d Lake M I allab E e (Extract from Wwww.dec.wa.gov.au) L Canna an Lake outm unna d ion N H TON Pindab Lake Ballar Marm s RALD w ongers enzies Edjudina brolho GE t I Mingene a M M A Pelsaer Moraw Lake iverina 36 | GO CAMPING AUSTRALIA D R GO CAMPING AUSTRALIA | 37 ngara P Do Lake on to ee Rebecca n 2 Thr 0 Cook 0 ore I 2 prings namah e Mo in 0 S Car Lak Yindi Deak 0 4 0 0 Lake A 0 a Banda ad Arrow 0 abba Or Bro rlgooda Ene Coorow Buntine Yinda Forrest Cundeelee Wubin dah man allinu C Kanan Loongana Lee Dalw n Deborah GOORLIE re N Beaco Lake Mt Burges KAL ek aig Rock st oca Downs awlinna H I N e Bonnie Ea 554 Av R R P L A Watheroo ing Kalanni eborah olyanobbing L L A R B O Nullarbor Motel Mil Lake D Ko oonana Zanthus N U Koonalda ien Bay West lda West C Border Jur Ballidu ubbin abrook olgardie Kamba x Benc Lake Se Co Village Cadou ukinbudin ervantes M Eucla C aragan Moora ills oorda llfinch Lefroy Dand Wongan H K Bu Lake ing rayning ss oonia Downs lla Cowcow T in outhern Cro e tha Mad a Mundrabi Lakes Nungar S Yellowdin Widgiemool Madur ew Norcia N arvel Loch celin yalkatchem Bodallin M wan Lan W Lake Co biddy t omalling Merredin Cockle Bolgar Go Fraser Range n Caiguna Gingi rdin Muntadgin Toodyay Cunde rberrin anchep Kelle Y ock eman Rocks ortham Bruce R Nors Balladonia Two Nie Wundow n ohnston Balladonia EROO ading Narembee Lake J WANN York Quair Mundaring Nanambinia RTH A ope Lake Dundas PE d y von Hyden Lake H B I G H T st Islan Beverle Corrigin T A U S T R A L I A N Rottne E G R E A ANTL Byford n les FREM a Brookto R ondinin Peak Char Kwinan Jarrahdale K in 651 200 O ly Kul e Tay on Gums KINGHAM Pingel Lak Salm ROC Wickepin URAH llingup udinin e King er Peak C AND rra Dwe ton D Lak Tow M Pinja odding Y B in ke Grace degate o 593 a og La ew u R Waroon Narr N n p ce g Yarloo iams g L Gra t E Will Dumbleyun r Zeehan in uth o Kuker So ake rpe R y L nstho L Harve ta Rave 20 Magen rleans Farms 00 n Darkan agin O A k Junctio W abing up Esperance sley Brunswic Collie illing Ny Munglin Cape Pa Woodan y URY a dle I NB B Mid BU brook e GEOG Donny tanning c ndrain I N RAP Ka etoun n Mo HE B r rup ungup Hop ra aliste AY e Gnowange Jerram spe Natur Capel iv p E RCHE Cape ugh R Kojonu AR ECHE nsboro Brook CHIPEL F THE R 4 Du lton Boyup ellup P AGO O 00 0 ult usse Tamb al Borden 2 00 Claira B li 0 Cape town nu 0 Bridge p 20 Nannup Knoll ver d Cranbrook Bluff remer Bay t Ri o R R B rgare 00 Ma o p 11 nry 0 u e 0 w Manjim S A Point H 40 cinet Black d TIRLING R e Frey n lly Cap usta a y Gu Aug l Rock Barker mberton k Mount e n y P a a n r eeuwi B L F Cape rs de e Albany Flin Northcliff ark Denm ge Sound x lpole King Geor ecasteau Wa rove ad int D'Entr Little G Bald He Po pe Nuyts West Ca Point Howe

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