From Paddling the Zambezi to Galloping Across South African Savanna, We’Ve Come up with the Adventures You Can’T Miss
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From paddling the Zambezi to galloping across South African savanna, we’ve come up with the adventures you can’t miss. They’ll transport you through wilderness, introduce you to stunning landscapes and deliver some mighty animals along the way. ETHIOPIA UGANDA KENYA REPUBLIC OF THE CONGO TANZANIA ZAMBIA NAMIBIA BOTSWANA SOUTH AFRICA 100 get lost ISSUE 47 get in the know One elephant can hear another’s trumpet from 10 kilometres away. get in the know The Zambezi, at 3450 kilometres, fows through six countries: Zambia, Angola, Namibia, Botswana, Zimbabwe and Mozambique. ISSUE 47 get lost 101 walking with giants For a mORe sErEnE take oN ThE tradiTIonAl safAri, HanNA JoNes lacES up her HikIng boOts fOr cloSe encouNtErs Of The wild kInD IN KeNya. Promises have been made: hike to the top of One of this walk’s unique aspects is its a huge rock called Nyasura in the distance guides. Hailing from the Samburu tribe, who and be rewarded with spectacular views live mainly in north central Kenya (they’re over the plains. After about 15 minutes or related to, but distinct from, the Maasai so, it isn’t the vista that proves to be the people), they lead the safaris dressed most magical element of the climb: we can in traditional attire. This includes shoes hear men singing. Since we’re in the middle made from old tyres – and if you doubt the of nowhere, Kenya, this comes as a bit of a effectiveness of such footwear, I’m here to tell surprise, but it does provide the impetus to you those old Bridgestones seemed to offer get moving a little faster towards the summit. better footing than my hiking boots. They lead Suddenly, we happen upon three Samburu camels – a strange sight on the African plains warriors by a small rock pool. Each of them – which carry food, water, cameras, camping is washing his clothes in the water. It’s gear and, whenever needed, weary walkers. hard to say who is more startled to see the The guides are kind and knowledgeable. other, but pleasantries are exchanged and Walking alongside them or sitting around GET PLANNING we eventually continue on our way to the the campfre in the evening allows for easy vantage point overlooking the Ewaso River conversation. I learn about their culture and GET THERE and Laikipia landscapes. customs, traditions and lifestyle, and in just Fly to Kenya by connecting over There’s no denying the appeal of taking a few short days they go from being the Bangkok, Guangzhou and Hong Kong with Thai an Ewaso River Walking Safari. This gentler, people who show me animals to fast friends. Airways, China Southern and Cathay Pacifc. quieter approach to exploring the African Each day is a little bit different on the safari. Fares start at about AU$2500 return. wilderness offers the seasoned visitor to the I’ve opted for the luxury option and the tent kenya-airways.com continent another avenue to exploration. has a bed with a proper mattress and linen, Words can’t describe the feeling of walking robes, lanterns and chairs out the front. through empty Laikipia landscapes. On a Every morning begins with an early wake- TOUR THERE well-worn elephant trail we bump into an old up, as one of the guides pours warm water The three-day Ewaso River Walking man who has nothing but a spear in his hand. into a bowl so that I can wash my face while Safari costs from AU$3455 a person, including He speaks briefy to the guides and trackers looking out over the landscape lit with the soft meals and transfers from Nairobi. and is on his way once more. At other times sunshine. Considering the camp is packed benchinternational.com.au I’m acutely aware of the levels of life in this up and moved each day, the standards are landscape. Without a vehicle to separate me remarkably high. SOUTH SUDAN ETHIOPIA from the environment, I can appreciate even Each afternoon we explore the area around SOMALIA the smallest of insects and fowers. But, this the camp, only to fnd one of the staff UGANDA KENYA being November and the beginning of rainy members hiding behind a tree with snacks and season, there is plenty of other animal action. sundowners ready to go. Even the tonic water Laikipia The acacia bush country is home to giraffe, for the G&Ts is icy cold. Dinner is cooked over NAIROBI zebra and impala, as well as monkeys and a fre on the ground, then, after the talking is birds. Elephants, who like to bathe in the done, there’s nothing to do but head for bed muddy stretches of the Ewaso Ng’iro River, where the sounds of the bush surround my TANZANIA can also be spotted. canvas home and act as a wild lullaby. 102 get lost ISSUE 47 get in the know Samburu warriors wear their hair in long braids, which are shaved off when they become elders. get in the know The name Ewaso Ng’iro means river of brown. ISSUE 47 get lost 103 in pursuit of primates Republic of the COngo Not for your novice hiker, this safari leads you through remote rainforests of the Odzala– Kokoua National Park to track the endangered western lowland gorillas. No two forays into the forest are ever the same, and you’ll follow expert trackers who monitor the gorillas’ habits closely, leading you to where they slept the previous night as the sun’s rays begin fltering through the canopy. Covering distances of between fve and eight the skeleton’s kilometres, you’ll trail the gorillas, who can move at remarkably high speeds, through the undergrowth, until they stop to eat, shimmy up trees and stare at their human cousins solitude who’ve followed them into the bush. Along the way watch out for all variety of monkeys, exotic birds and magnifcent butterfies, as well as, NamibIA if you’re lucky, forest elephants. People often describe a gorilla encounter It may be one of the most uninhabitable places as one of the most emotional and humbling on the planet. Following the publication of John experiences of their lives. It’s easy to see what Henry Marsh’s 1944 book on the shipwreck of attracted Dr Magda Bermejo here to study them. the Dunedin Star, it’s been called the Skeleton She lives at Ngaga Camp and about 17 years Coast, but the Bushmen of Namibia refer to this ago began habituating two groups of the gorillas part of the world as the land God made in anger. to her presence. More recently, they’ve also Moody, isolated and strangely beautiful, the had to get used to the travellers who stay at the 500-kilometre-long Skeleton Coast National Park eco-friendly, rustic lodge in groups of four at any stretches along the Atlantic Coast from Kunene one time. River in the north to the Ugab River in the south, After two days of tracking gorillas, the showcasing plains, mountains and shifting dunes. adventure moves to Lango Camp, about four Departing Windhoek, this nine-day 4WD excursion hours away. Travel along the local rivers in includes walks to hidden waterfalls, wild camping on motorised pirogues (canoes) looking for buffalo, beaches, visiting wrecks and old mines, and keeping red river hogs, primates and bongos, a type of eyes peeled for desert elephants, herds of oryx and striped antelope, before arriving at jungle hides springboks, brown hyenas, black rhinos, fur seals where you’ll watch the life of the forest unfold. and rare desert lions. Nine-night trips to Ngaga and Lango Camps start The nine-day Skeleton Coast Adventure is conducted at about AU$10,275, including meals, permits and on a private basis only. The cost for four people starts transfers from Brazzaville. at AU$3400, all inclusive, from Windhoek. naturalworldsafaris.com karibunamibia.com 104 get lost ISSUE 47 get in the know French Congo became the Republic of the Congo in 1960, and shouldn’t be confused with the Democratic Republic of the Congo to the east. get in the know Welwitschia mirabilis, a Namib desert plant, can live for 2000 years. ISSUE 47 get lost 105 Meet South Africa Go to www.southafrica.net from every angle South Africa And BotswaNA If you can’t decide whether you’d prefer to take takes you to Mashatu in Botswana where to the African plains by foot, clamber into a more than 50 types of mammals and reptiles saddle or quaff sundowners after witnessing and 350 species of birds roam the plains. a lion gorge on an antelope from the back of a Three of the big fve – lions, leopards and the 4WD, combine them all for the ultimate safari largest herd of elephants on private land in adventure. Start in South Africa, where you’ll Africa – as well as cheetahs, jackals, wildcats, hike Cape Town’s Table Mountain and meet a ostrich and giraffe, make for excellent photo local who will share tales of his time imprisoned opportunities. You’ll learn to track animals on Robben Island with Nelson Mandela, then as you cycle between baobabs and giant glimpse rare zebras, ostrich and baboons as sacrosanct Mashatu berry trees, for which the you cycle to Chapman’s Peak on the rugged reserve is named. A blazing fre and canopy Cape Peninsula. of stars accompanies your camp at night. You’ll go hiking and canoeing and get a taste Before returning to South Africa for bush of ancient history at the luxurious Bushmans excursions by foot and 4WD you’ll go for game Kloof Wilderness Reserve and Retreat, where drives and hike the Great Escarpment.