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Downloadable Map Allows You to Use Local Hotspots, Even Those Requiring a Password By Cox & Kings • Issue 25 • Winter 2016-17 NICHOLAS CRANE VICTORIA HISLOP On the birth of Britain ‘Grateful for those years freezing on Bognor beaches’ Backwater Burma A voyage up the Chindwin NORDIC SHORT BREAKS NEPAL, SUDAN & IRAN Scandi escapes to the northern lights Discovering ancient civilisations TRAVEL NEWS • REVIEWS • INTERVIEWS Cox&Kings_Advert_A4_Oct16.pdf 1 13/10/2016 09:44:20 Feel at home in World Business Class The new KLM World Business Class brings you the perfect mix of comfort, individuality and personal space on intercontinental flights. Stretch out and sleep in the 207cm-long, fully flat bed, or sit back and relax in the cabin that oers all the comforts of home. C M Y CM MY CY CMY K Welcome to Welcome Compass © Nick Gregan Editorial A new year beckons Editor • Jennifer Cox Deputy Editor • Eleanor Day It’s tempting to think we’ve got a handle on life. But as Brexit, Boris and our Online Editor • Kimberley Hay Olympic triumphs proved, a lot can happen in a year! Art & Design The same is true in the world of travel. Jaded writers may complain every corner Art Director • Ben Harrison of the globe has been discovered and explored, but this issue of Compass Designer • Ines Menendez Illustrations • Melissa Wood offers a straightforward rebuttal. We journey to Iran (p56), a civilisation most of Images • Shutterstock, iStock, Nick Gregan us know only through Persian myth and legend. And Sudan (p44), an ancient, (nickgregan.com), Belmond, Taj Hotels (India) beautiful country in its tourism infancy. Burma (p36) is a relatively new destination for tourists too: its dazzling temples and colourful river markets are the very Advertising definition of exotic. Advertising Manager • Claire James For advertising opportunities Seemingly at the other end of the spectrum, former Coast presenter and the in print or online, please email Royal Geographical Society’s new president, Nicholas Crane (p12) opens our [email protected] eyes to the fascinating forces that forged Britain. And novelist Victoria Hislop or call 020 7873 5015 (p98) takes a dreamily idyllic Giant Leap to Greece. Acknowledgements John Patterson, Nigel Hosking, Katie Cosstick, We’ve plenty of travel news, reviews and articles – not to mention competitions! Thomas Saunders, Neill Prothero, Michael – to keep you going through the dark winter days. We may even inspire you to Fleetwood, Louise Stanion, Dan Wilcock, go on an adventure of your own? Please write and tell us about it, we always love Vessela Baleva, David Corvacho & Sophie Banna to hear from you. Subscription enquiries Wishing you Season’s Greetings from us all at Cox & Kings. To ensure your free copy of Compass, please email [email protected], stating your name, postal address and email, or call 020 7873 5006 Jennifer Cox Editor Compass is published twice a year by Cox & Kings Travel Ltd. coxandkings.co.uk/compass • Compass 3 Contents Winter 2016–17 Life 12 Guest Traveller Nicholas Crane on the importance of our landscapes 84 Recipe Delicious dishes from Rick Stein 88 Sawday’s Wilderness Walks Hiking the Knoydart peninsula 90 Charity Spotlight CoolEarth on their new project to preserve our forests 98 One Giant Leap Victoria Hislop recalls her first holiday News & Views 6 Dear Compass … Your letters and stories 8 New Directions What’s new at Cox & Kings 16 Hot List Top new openings 78 Inside View The insider’s view from DK Eyewitness 82 Not to be Missed 12 • NICHOLAS CRANE The best of the UK’s winter events 83 On a Plate Foodie news 92 Compass Points Andrew Lambert on seeking isolation 94 Behind the Scenes How Crossrail has benefited our wildlife Reviews 74 The Bigger Picture The latest photography book for your coffee table 22 • JERUSALEM 24 • PERU 76 Bookmark Book reviews 80 Wanted on Voyage Essential travel gear 86 A Taste of the World Wine reviews Competitions 7 Caption Competition 20 Photo Competition 96 Cryptic Crossword & Brain Teasers 32 • NORDIC SHORT BREAKS 36 • BURMA 4 Compass • Winter 2016-17 Compass Contributors Hilary Smith Historian, guide lecturer and tour leader, Hilary has wide ranging interests from the ancient world in central and south Asia to gardens, politics and music. As the co- author of the Bradt Iran Guide, she looks at the reasons why we should all be visiting 44 • SUDAN 50 • NORTHERN SPAIN Iran (p56). Andrew Lambert Professor of Naval History at King’s College, London, Andrew’s books include Nelson: Britannia’s God of War, Admirals: The Naval Commanders Who Made Britain Great and Franklin: Tragic Hero of Polar Exploration. His highly successful history of the British Navy, War at Sea, was broadcast on BBC Two. In this issue, he discusses desert islands and isolation in Compass Points 56 • IRAN 64 • NEPAL (p92). Nigel Tisdall Award-winning travel writer Nigel is a regular contributor to the Daily Telegraph, Sunday Telegraph and Financial Times. He has also written many travel features for magazines including Elle, Red, Vanity Fair and Condé Nast Traveller. In this Compass issue, Nigel takes to the River Chindwin in Burma (p36). Visit nigeltisdall.com 70 • BRITISH COLUMBIA Rishika Sharma From hiking up Machu Picchu to trekking the Great Wall of China, Rishika has been jet setting since before her first birthday. Part of the Visit England team, she took a seven-month sabbatical tour of Latin America, journeying from Cuba to Brazil. In this issue she tells us of her travels in Peru (p24). Follow her adventures at home and afar on Instagram: @missrishikasharma. 98 • VICTORIA HISLOP 20 • PHOTO COMPETITION coxandkings.co.uk/compass • Compass 5 LETTERS Dear Compass... Dear Compass, STAR LETTER Y I need to thank you for your Behind the Scenes feature on Greasby’s, the lost Dear Compass, property auctioneers. It was the first I’d heard of them, but living not far from their I thoroughly enjoyed Levison Woods’ account of his teenage Gap Year in One Tooting saleroom, I thought I should take Giant Leap (Compass, summer 2016). I was particularly struck by his comment: a look. I came away with a fine set of golf “I got off the plane, found a youth hostel, and thought “What do I do now?” I was clubs, which I had intended to give my terrified’. I had a similar experience on my first big trip – travelling across India in grandson to get him started in the game. my 20s. That’s the shockingly wonderful thing about travel: you don’t realise how However, when I got them home, I was small your life is until you step out of your comfort zone into the big wide world! so taken with the nearly new set that I decided to hang on to them and, to my William Saunders, London delight, discovered that these hi-tech clubs added 20 yards onto my drives and got me putting like Ballesteros. My regular playing partner, Brian, is less than chuffed despite the fact that he’s always buying himself the latest state-of-the-art kit! Norman Close, Merton Dear Compass, Dear Compass, Thank you to all of you who got into the spirit of Mindfulness and sent us We’re really enjoying your new caption I’ve recently returned from a trip to your colourings of the Taj Mahal, as competition – it gets the whole family Vietnam. I just thought to add a further featured on pages 78-79 of the last issue. involved! If we don’t win the gin this time suggestion to Max Wooldridge’s article Bay Congratulations to the winner, Sharon around then we’ll certainly get our thinking of Wonders in the summer issue. Martin, for her beautiful illustration. caps on for the next caption challenge – She will receive a copy of Ultimate please keep it running! Besides the bustle of Hanoi and the Travelist Colouring Book (Lonely Planet, unearthly ambience of Halong Bay, I would £9.99) to continue her lovely work. Margaret Beckett, Somerset also recommend taking a bamboo boat ride through the limestone karst caves and mountains at Trang An near Ninh Binh, just Dear editor, 2-3 hours south of Hanoi. We were steered by a very dexterous Vietnamese woman Thumbs up to your additional feature on who used both her hands and her feet to short breaks in the latest issue of Compass guide the boat. Be warned that the caves (issue 24). I’m always racking my brains on are very low and you have to bend down where to go for a quick getaway. Helpful to avoid a knock on the head! to get some ideas from the experts! I’ve now booked to go to Malaga for some James Goodman, London autumn sunshine – it never occurred to me as a cultural city break. Looking forward to Write to Compass exploring the new museum openings. We love to hear from our readers. To submit your own letter for publication, Regards, please write to Zoe Campbell, Cumbria [email protected]. 6 Compass • Winter 2016-17 Caption Competition Yet again, we were delighted to receive a huge number of entries to our caption competition. The winner for the summer issue is … Mr David Tyler. Congratulations Mr Tyler, we hope you will enjoy your commemorative bottle of Sipsmith’s gin! “...but I was To those of you who didn’t win, thank you ‘Hear No Evil’ for taking the time to enter and adding a little laughter to our day. Don’t be dispirited last time!” though (no pun intended), why not have another (wise)crack – send an amusing caption to accompany the image below (10 words maximum) to: [email protected] The winner will receive a £100 Bob Books voucher, allowing you to transform your travel photos into professionally printed and bound photo books.
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