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Yosemite, Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Parks 5

Yosemite, Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Parks 5

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Yosemite, Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Parks

Yosemite p44 Around p134

Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Parks p165

Michael Grosberg, Jade Bremner PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD

Welcome to Yosemite, YOSEMITE NATIONAL . . . . . 80 Sequoia & PARK ...... 44 ...... 86 Kings Canyon ...... 4 Driving...... 87 Yosemite, Sequoia & Day Hikes...... 48 Kings Canyon Map. . . . . 6 ...... 48 Cycling...... 87 Yosemite, Sequoia & Big Oak Flat Road Other Activities . . . . . 90 Kings Canyon Top 16. . . . 8 & Tioga Road...... 56 Winter Activities. . . . . 95 Need to Know...... 16 & Sights...... 97 Badger Pass ...... 60 What’s New...... 18 Yosemite Valley...... 97 Tuolumne Meadows. . . . . 64 If You Like ...... 19 Glacier Point & Wawona...... 68 Month by Month. . . . . 22 Badger Pass Region. . . . 103 Hetch Hetchy...... 70 Itineraries ...... 24 Tuolumne Meadows. . . . 106 Activities...... 28 Overnight Hikes. . . . . 72 Wawona...... 109 Yosemite Valley...... 74 Travel with Children. . . . 36 Along Tioga Road. . . . . 112 Big Oak Flat & Travel with Pets . . . . . 41 Big Oak Flat Road . . . . . 114 Tioga Road ...... 75 Hetch Hetchy...... 115 Glacier Point & Badger Pass ...... 78 Sleeping...... 116 Yosemite Valley...... 116 VEZZANIPHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK © DECEMBER35/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

NIGHT SKY, GLACIER POINT P104 PEGGYSELLS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

HORSETAIL FALL P103 VIEW FROM TUNNEL VIEW P45 Contents

UNDERSTAND

Yosemite, Sequoia &

TAHA RAJA/500PX Kings Canyon Today. . .. 208 History...... 210 Geology...... 216

© Wildlife...... 221 Conservation...... 228

SURVIVAL GUIDE

VIEW OF FROM Clothing & GLACIER POINT P104 Equipment...... 232 Directory A–Z...... 236 Glacier Point & SEQUOIA & KINGS Badger Pass ...... 118 Transportation ...... 244 CANYON NATIONAL Health & Safety . . . . . 249 Big Oak Flat Road & PARKS...... 165 Tioga Road ...... 120 Index...... 255 Day Hikes...... 167 Tuolumne Meadows. . . . 123 Map Legend...... 263 . . . 167 Wawona...... 123 Kings Canyon Hetch Hetchy...... 123 National Park ...... 174 OWENREISER/SHUTTERSTOCK © Eating & Drinking. . . . 125 Overnight Hikes. . . . . 176 Yosemite Valley...... 125 Sequoia National Park . . . 178 Glacier Point Road & Kings Canyon Badger Pass ...... 127 National Park ...... 179 Wawona...... 127 Driving...... 182 Big Oak Flat Road & Other Activities . . . . . 183 Tioga Road ...... 128 Sights...... 187 Tuolumne Meadows. . . . 128 Sequoia National Park. . . 187 Hetch Hetchy...... 128 Kings Canyon National Park ...... 189 SUMMIT OF P59 AROUND YOSEMITE Sleeping...... 196 NATIONAL PARK. . . 134 Sequoia National Park . . . 196 Yosemite Gateways. . . 136 Kings Canyon SPECIAL Highway 140...... 136 National Park ...... 199 FEATURES Highway 120 (West). . . . 138 Eating & Drinking. . . . 201 Hiking in Yosemite. . . .. 50 South of Yosemite Sequoia National Park . . . 201 Hiking in Sequoia (Highway 41)...... 140 Kings Canyon & Kings Canyon. . . . . 172 Fish Camp...... 140 National Park ...... 202 Geology...... 216 Oakhurst...... 141 Around Sequoia & Wildlife...... 221 to Lee Vining. . . . 142 Kings Canyon National Parks ...... 204 Clothing & Eastern Sierra...... 144 Three Rivers...... 204 Equipment...... 232 North of . . . . 145 Visalia...... 206 Mammoth Lakes Region. . . . 148 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 24

Itineraries

Yosemite Falls Trail •# Glacier Mountain Room Lounge •# RHalf Dome Point •# Tunnel •# View •# R

É & the Fissures É

#÷ Yosemite

National Park É

É

Big •# Lodge

Mariposa •# Grove

2 DAYS A Weekend in Yosemite

Feast on a multicourse banquet of Yosemite Valley attractions, scenic overlooks and giant sequoias. Pack a lunch and head out to conquer the long climb of either the Mist Trail or the Trail, giving yourself lots of scenic breathers along the way. Quench your thirst post-hike with a celebratory drink at the Yosemite Valley Lodge’s Mountain Room Lounge, and in the evening hear the rangers spin tales at a convivial campfire program. On your second day, pack up and proceed to Glacier Point, stopping en route for a leisurely stroll to vertigo-inducing Taft Point and the Fissures. Save lunch for when you get to road’s end, in full view of Half Dome and Vernal and Nevada Falls. Continue past Wawona to the South Entrance to take a gander at the giant sequoias of . Return to the historic Big Trees Lodge for dinner in its classy dining room. On your way home, stop at the magnificent Tunnel View lookout, taking in one last valley eyeful before you leave. 25

•#Bodie State Historic Park •#Mono

Yosemite Lake National Park É #÷ June Lake Loop Ansel Adams •#•# Area Mammoth TRIP YOUR PLAN •# Lakes

•# Devils Postpile É National Monument & Reds Meadow Laws Railroad Museum •# & Historic Site

It É i nerar

#÷ Kings Canyon National National Park i es •# Historic Site Whitney Lone Portal •# •#•# Sequoia Pine National #÷ Alabama Park Hills

2 WEEKS Highway 395 (Eastern Sierra Scenic Byway)

Start in diminutive Lone Pine, exploring the fascinating paraphernalia from hundreds of movies in the Museum of Western Film History. Then head out to the nearby orange, round-earthen mounds of the otherworldly Alabama Hills, where many of the Old West Hollywood movies were shot. Day-trippers can make like they’re on their way to climb the jagged peak of 14,505ft Mt Whitney by heading to Whitney Portal and Lone Pine Lake. Just up the road, near even tinier Independence, is the Manzanar National Historic Site, a museum dedicated to telling the story of a dark chapters in US history, located on the barren, windswept land of the former WWII-era internment camp. You could then spend many days around Bishop, the second-largest town in the Eastern Sierra, hiking, cycling, fishing, bouldering… and hitting the Laws Railroad Museum & Historic Site’s collection of antique railcars. Same goes for the year-round resort town of Mammoth Lakes (the mountain’s ski season can run into June), with backcountry hikes galore, and a massive mountain-bike park. Don’t miss Reds Mead- ow, just west of , and the surreal 10,000-year-old Devils Postpile National Monument. The drive around the June Lake Loop, under the shadow of Carson Peak, meanders through a horseshoe canyon, especially scenic in fall, and it’s backed by the Ansel Ad- ams Wilderness Area and its world-class high-country trails. In summer the swim- ming beach is a revelation of fun. For some geographic diversity, drive a little further north to Mono Lake to walk to its glassy surface and unearthly tufa towers. An appro- priate coda to the trip is wandering among the frozen-in-time gold-rush-era buildings in the preserved ghost town of Bodie State Historic Park. 26

Tueeulala & •# Hetch Hetchy Reservoir

Tuolumne Sequoia Lodgepole PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN Meadows National Park Village •# ÷# •# É Crystal Lake •# •#

É Cave É

É •# É Giant É Yosemite Forest•# Crescent •# Valley •# •#Meadow •# Vernal & •# •# •# Glacier Nevada Falls It Point i nerar

•# #÷ Hospital Rock Yosemite É

É

i es Tunnel Rock É National Park •#

•# Foothills •# Big Trees Lodge •# Visitor Center •# Mariposa Grove

Sequoia National 8 Yosemite Complete 1 DAY DAYS Park

Pack in all of Yosemite’s major sights on Big trees, deep caves and high a tour of waterfalls, sequoias and high- domes are all on the agenda for this day- country vistas. Spend your first day stroll- long tour of Sequoia National Park. ing the crowd-free loop Yosemite Valley Start your day at the Foothills Visi- trails. Next day, hike the drenched Mist tor Center, stopping long enough to get Trail to Vernal and Nevada Falls. The oriented. Head north on the Generals following day float along the Merced Hwy, hitting the brakes at Tunnel Rock – River – the best rafting views you’ll ever visualize squeezing through in a tin lizzie have. Reserve day four to huff and puff the (small early-model car) – and to see Native Four Mile Trail to Glacier Point for vistas American pictographs and grinding holes from the park’s most famous viewpoint, at Hospital Rock, near riverside swim- or take a climbing class with the Yosemite ming holes. Mountaineering School. Arriving in , let yourself Drive out to Hetch Hetchy for a day trip be dwarfed by the majestic General Sher- and hike to Tueeulala Falls and Wa- man , the world’s largest tree. Learn pama Falls. Next morning, gobble down a more about giant sequoias at the kid- filling breakfast at the historic Big Trees friendly Giant Forest Museum. Hop on the Lodge, park at Yosemite’s South Entrance park shuttle for a wildflower walk around and humble yourself exploring the ancient Crescent Meadow and to climb the . Pack a lunch and hike Mariposa Grove puff-and-pant stairway up Moro Rock for to thundering Chilnualna Falls, near bird’s-eye canyon and peak views. Wawona. The following day, stop to marvel at Olmsted Point from the Tioga Rd view- Picnic by the river at Lodgepole Vil- point, and take in the dazzling views from lage, then get back in your car and make the sandy shores of Tenaya Lake. Wind up your way to the chilly underground won- your trip with a wander around the Sierra derland of Crystal Cave, where you can Nevada’s biggest alpine meadow while marvel at delicate marble formations while camped at Tuolumne Meadows. easing through eerie passageways. 27

÷# Kings Canyon Saddlebag National Park Tuolumne Lake Bodie State •#

Meadows Historic Park TRIP YOUR PLAN •#Mono Lake Yosemite É Converse Junction •# National É •# Basin View Park June Lake Loop #• Knapp's #÷ •# Grove É Yosemite•# Mammoth Lakes #• É Cabin Muir •#•# Rock Valley •# Hot •# #• #• •# Devils Ancient #• Cedar Grove #• #• Wawona Springs #• É É

Kings Canyon Village #• Postpile É Bristlecone É National #• Scenic Byway Roaring Pine Forest #• Zumwalt Monument

Grant Grove Village River É

Meadow É It

General Falls

i nerar Grove É Kings Canyon

National Park ÷# Kings Canyon É

National Park #÷ •# Manzanar É •#

#÷ Sequoia i es National Lone Park Pine ÷# Sequoia National Park

Kings Canyon Sequoia to 1 DAY 14 National Park DAYS Alabama Hills

From giant sequoia crowns to the depths Kick off the trip with three to four days in of the canyon, this twisting Sequoia and Kings Canyon National scenic drive is an eye-popping revelation. Parks, touring their ancient trees, ­ethereal caves and showstopping river canyon. Start in Grant Grove Village at the Heading north, camp at and northern end of the Generals Hwy. Take Wawona budget a day for the southern reaches of a walk in Grove, encom- Yosemite National Park. Spend at least passing the world’s third-largest living tree three days exploring the miraculous falls and the gigantic Fallen Monarch. and granite monoliths of Yosemite Valley, Drive down the Kings Canyon Scenic then hike the trails of Yosemite’s high coun- Byway (Hwy 180), passing through the try while camped at Tuolumne Meadows. Giant Sequoia National Monument and East of the park, take a full day to stopping for a dip at Hume Lake. Back on explore the surreal countryside around the scenic byway, which starts descending and then journey over precipitously, pull over to survey the can- Saddlebag Lake to . Detour north to the ghost- yon depths and distant peaks from lofty Mono Lake town ruins of Bodie State Historic Park Junction View. and then south for the mountain vistas Cruise past Cedar Grove Village. Feel buffering the June Lake Loop. From waves of spray from roadside Roaring Mammoth Lakes, hike to the bizarre for- River Falls and admire striking canyon mation of the Devils Postpile National views in verdant Zumwalt Meadow, a Monument before heading to the nearby bird-watching spot with a boardwalk na- hot springs at sunset. Next wind up the ture trail. At truthfully named Road’s End, road to the Ancient Bristlecone Pine cool off at the beach by Muir Rock before Forest to breathe the thin air and marvel turning around and driving back to catch at the gnarled, time-capsule trees. On a canyon sunset from historic Knapp’s your final day, tour the solemn remains of Cabin. Manzanar and catch a film-worthy sun- set at the Alabama Hills in Lone Pine. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 254

Behind the Scenes

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companion Jo Walton, who didn’t even flinch when we WRITER THANKS encountered black bears, and helped me in crossing Michael Grosberg some treacherous rivers to bring Lonely Planet Thanks to the following for their hospitality, advice readers the most up-to-date trail information. and insight: Steve Bumgardner of Yosemite Notes; Lisa Cesaro and Anna Williams from Aramark; Brooke Smith in Fish Camp; Terri Marshall; Jenn Edwards in ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Groveland; Scott Gediman and Jamie Richards from Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson the ; and baby Rosie and Carly BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the for sharing the trip and trails. Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344. Jade Bremner Cover photograph: and Yosemite Valley Thanks to destination editor Sarah Stocking for her shrouded in cloud, Michael Hutchinson/Robert support and quick-fire responses on Yosemite, Kings Harding © Canyon and Sequoia. Plus, everyone working behind the scenes on this project – Cheree Broughton, Dianne, Jane, Neill Coen, Evan Godt and Helen Elfer. Last but not least, thanks to my fearless hiking

THIS BOOK guidebook was produced by Book Designer Jessica Rose the following: Assisting Editors Melanie This 5th edition of Lonely Destination Editor Sarah Dankel, Andrea Dobbin, Shona Planet’s Yosemite, Sequoia & Stocking Gray, Carly Hall, Trent Holden, Kings Canyon National Parks Senior Product Editors Grace Anne Mulvaney, Maja Vatrić guide was curated by Michael Dobell, Kate Mathews, Victoria Cartographer Corey Grosberg, and researched and Smith ­Hutchison written by Michael and Jade Product Editor Bruce Evans Cover Researcher Naomi Bremner. The 3rd and 4th Alison Parker editions were written by Beth Senior Cartographer Lyall Ben Buckner, Evan Kohn and Sara Benson. This Thanks to Godt, Trisha Ping, Isla Ratcliff ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 255

Index

A eating & drinking 128 123 Clouds Rest 59-60, 2 accessible travel 236 hikes 56-60, 75-8, 57 Kings Canyon National Coffee with a Ranger 94 accommodations 236-9, rock climbing 91 Park 199-201 Columbia Rock 54 see also camping, skiing 95 Sequoia National Park compasses 232-3 196-7 lodgings, individual swimming 93 conservation 228-30 locations Tuolumne Meadows 123 Big Pine 161 Convict Lake 157 reservations 117 Wawona 123 221 costs 16 activities 22-3, 28-35, see Yosemite National Park birds 222-4 courses also individual activities 119 Bishop 157-60 climbing 91 Adams, Ansel 98, 101 Yosemite Valley 116-17 black bears 221, 251, for children 36 adventure sports 21, 30-1, 223 canoeing 34 Black Point Fissures 146 222 33-5, 152 Sequoia & Kings Canyon air travel 244 boating 94 National Parks 183 credit cards 241 airports 17, 244 222 car rental 245-6 Crescent Meadow 170, 178-9, 188 Alabama Hills 162 Bodie State Historic Park car travel 245-7, 248 Crocker Point 54 altimeter 233 12, 146, 12 Cathedral Lakes 65-6 books 208, 212, 213, 214, cross-country skiing 95 altitude sickness 250-2 Cathedral Peak 66, 109, 9 215, 222, 227, 249 Crystal Cave 15, 186, 15 amebic dysentery 250 Cathedral Range 108-9 Boothe Lake 85 Crystal Lake 174 amphibians 224 caving 34 bouldering 30-1 cycling 29-30, 36 Ancient Bristlecone Pine Sequoia & Kings Canyon Bishop 158 Forest 160-1 National Parks 183 June Lake Loop 149 Yosemite National Park animals 221-5, see Cedar Grove 191-3 Mammoth Lakes 151-2 90-1 also ­individual species cell phones 16, 242 Yosemite National Park bowling 152 87-90 children, travel with 36-40 Area 148 Bridalveil Fall 103 cycling tours 87-90 courses 36 artists 101 Bridgeport 147-8 cycling 36 ATMs 241 Buck Meadows 138-9 hiking 36-40 D bus travel 245, 248 historical sites 37-8 Dana Meadows 67 business hours 241 B horseback riding 38 daypacks 233-4 backpacking 19, 28-9, 74 indoor activities 38 dehydration 252 backpacks 233-4 C junior ranger Devils Postpile National Monument 153 Badger Pass 103-6, 104-5 campfire programs 94 program 40 Dewey Point 54 hikes 60-4, 78-9, 61 campfires 122 planning 40 discount cards 239 batholiths 218 campgrounds safety 39 Dog Lake 65 bear canisters 235 Kings Canyon National swimming 39 Park 202-3 domes, see mountains & bear proofing 239-40 winter sports 39-40 Sequoia National Park Chilnualna Falls 69-70 domes bears 221, 251, 223 199-200 ChimneyTree 170 downhill skiing 95 Benton Hot Springs 152 Yosemite High Sierra Chinese Camp 214 driver’s license 245 Bernice Lake 83 Camps 13, 123, 13 chipmunks 222 driving, see car travel, bicycle travel 244-5, 248 Yosemite National Park scenic drives Clark Point 56 Big Oak Flat Rd 114, 114 74, 120-1 driving distances 44, 134, accommodations 120-3 camping climate 16, 22-3, 238 165, 246 Big Oak Flat Rd & Tioga climate change 208, 245 driving routes, see scenic Rd 75-8, 120-2 climbing, see bouldering, drives rock climbing Map Pages Glacier Point 118 driving, winter 246-7 000 clothing 232 Photo Pages 000 Hetch Hetchy 123-4 drownings 183 256 E 148 highlights 8-15, 8-15 Palisade Glacier trail 161 Eagle Peak 54 Kaweah Oak Preserve hikes 62-3 earthquake fault 206 Alder Creek Falls 70 Pohono Trail 63-4 ­(Mammoth Lakes) 151 Mariposa Grove 13, Badger Pass 78-9 Rae Lakes Loop 179-82, Eastern Sierra 144-64 110-11, 13 Big Oak Flat Rd 75-8 180-1 10, 103, 11, 132 Merced Grove 56-7 Big Oak Flat Rd & Tioga Rancheria Falls 86-7, 86 INDEX INDEX electric cars 247 Redwood Canyon 190 Rd 56-60, 75-8 57 62 electricity 239 Tuolumne Grove 56 Big Trees Trail 170 Sequoia & Kings Canyon Elizabeth Lake 65 foxes 222 Bishop 158 National Parks 165,

E-H 176-82  Emeric Lake 85 frostbite 252 Cathedral Lakes 65-6 fuel 235, 247 Chilnualna Falls 69-70 Sequoia National Park emergencies 17  167-74, 178-9, 167 entrance fees 16 Clouds Rest 59-60 Taft Point & the Fissures Crescent Meadow Sequoia & Kings Canyon G 61-2 National Parks 166 Loop 170 Gallison Lake 83 Tenaya Lake 57-8 Yosemite National Dog Lake 65 gay travelers 240-1 Tenaya Lake to Yosemite Park 45 Elizabeth Lake 65 Gaylor Lakes 67 Valley 77-8, 78 entry routes 247 Four Mile Trail 54-5 174, Tokopah Falls 170-1 environmental issues 32, 190, 194 Gaylor Lakes 67 208, 228-30, 245 Tuolumne Grove 56 General Grant Tree 174 General Grant Tree equipment 233-5 Trail 174 Tuolumne Meadows Tree 64-8, 80-6, rental 235 General Sherman Tree to 64 171, 187 Vernal & Nevada Falls etiquette 239 Moro Rock 171 Generals Hwy 189 55-6 Glacier Point 78-9 events 22-3 geology 216-20 Glacier Point & Badger Vogelsang 83-5, 84 exchange rates 17 Giant Forest 10, 187-8, 10 Pass 60-4, 61 85-6, explorers 211 giant sequoias 20, 226 Glen Aulin 66-7 85 Giant Staircase 56 Wawona 68-70, Half Dome 74-6, 75 69 giardiasis 250 F Harden Lake 58 Wawona Meadow festivals & events 22-3 Glacier Point 55, 103-6, Loop 68-9 Hetch Hetchy 70-2, Mule Days 158 104-5 Yosemite Falls 54 86-7, 71 films 208 accommodations 118 Yosemite Valley 48-56, Firefall 106 eating & drinking 127 ­(Crescent Meadow 74-5, 49 fish 225 hikes 60-4, 78-9, 61 to Lone Pine Creek) Yosemite Valley Loop Fish Camp 140-1 skiing 95 178-9 48-9 fishing 34 glaciers 217-18 Inspiration Point 54 Young Lakes 81-3, 82 Bishop 158 Glen Aulin 66-7 Trail 11, 55-6, Zumwalt Meadow Loop 175 Sequoia & Kings Canyon golf 34, 94 78, 80-1 National Parks 186 GPS 233 June Lake Loop 149 hiking 19, 28-9, 36-7, see also hikes, individual Yosemite National Lakes Trails 177 Grant Grove Village 189-90 parks Park 93 64-5 great gray owls 224, 223 ratings 30 Fissures, the 61-2 Lukens Lake 57 Groveland 139-40 responsible hiking 32 food 239-40 Lyell Canyon 80-1, 80 guided trail rides 92 historic buildings food storage 126 Mammoth Lakes 152 Buck Rock Fire Lookout­ Foothills 188-9 Marble Falls 171 189 footwear 232 H May Lake & Mt Half Dome 10, 73, 74-6, Knapp’s Cabin 193 forest fires 230 ­Hoffmann 58-9 102-3, 10, 230 Pioneer Yosemite History forests McGurk Meadow 61 Half Dome Village 99-100 Center 112 Ancient Bristlecone Pine Merced Grove 56-7 hang gliding 34, 94 historic sites 21 Forest 160-1 & Tenaya hantavirus 250 Bodie State Historic Canyon 49-54 Park 146 191 100 Mist Trail 13, 175-6, 13 Laws Railroad Museum & health 249-53 General Grant Grove 174, Monarch Lakes 172-4 Historic Site 158 190, heat exhaustion 252 194 Mono Pass 67-8 Manzanar National Giant Forest 10, 187-8, 10 heatstroke 252 Moro Rock 167 Historic Site 162 Humboldt-Toiyabe Hetch Hetchy 115-16, 115 Mt Dana 68 history 210-15 National Forest 148 accommodations 123-4 Mt Whitney Trail 164 hitchhiking 248 eating & drinking 128-9 60 holidays 241 hikes 70-2, 86-7, 71 Old Big Oak Flat Rd to 148 Map Pages 000 High Sierra Camps 13, Yosemite Falls 76-7, 76 horse trails 42 Photo Pages 000 123, 13 79, 79 horseback riding 31-2 257 Sequoia & Kings Canyon L Monarch Lakes 173-4 Navy Beach 146 National Parks 183 205 money 16, 17, 241 55-6, 78 Horsetail Fall 103, 2 Laws Railroad Museum & Mono Lake 15, 146, 15 newspapers 236 Hospital Rock 188-9 Historic Site 158 Mono Pass 67-8 North Dome 60, 175 hostels 239 Leaning Towering Tree 56 Moro Rock 167, 171, 188 hotels 238-9 Lee Vining 143-4 motorcycle travel 248

Humboldt-Toiyabe O INDEX legal matters 240 mountain biking 29-30 Oakhurst 141-2 National Forest 148 Lembert Dome 64-5, 108 Mammoth Lakes 151-2 Olmsted Point 113 Hwy 41 140-4 lesbian travelers 240-1 mountain lions 222 opening dates 17

Hwy 120 (West) 138-40  H-R LGBT+ travelers 240-1 mountains & domes opening hours 241 Hwy 140 136-8 lightning 253  Cathedral Peak 66, orientation 233 hypothermia 252 Tree 174 109, 9 O’Shaughnessy Dam 71, 72 Lodgepole Village 187 Cathedral Range 108-9 Ostrander Lake 79-80 I lodges 238 El Capitan 10, 103, ice-skating 96 lodgings 11, 132 Independence 161-2 Big Oak Flat Rd & Tioga Fin Dome 180 P pack trips 183 Indian Rock 60 Rd 122-3 Half Dome 10, 73, 74-6, Panoramic Point 191 insect bites 253 Glacier Point 118 102-3, 10, 230 Panum Crater 146 insects 225 Hetch Hetchy 124 Hetch Hetchy Dome 71 Paradise Valley 179 insurance 240 Kings Canyon National Lembert Dome 64-5, Park 201 108 Pennsylvania Tree 174 health 249 Sequoia National Park Mt Dana 68 peregrine falcons 224 vehicle 245 197-8 Mt Hoffmann 58-9 permits 17, 73, 148, 176 internet access 240 Tuolumne Meadows 123 Mt Whitney 164, pets, travel with 17, 41-2 internet resources 210, 11 Wawona 123 213, 220, 249 North Dome 60, 175 pikas 222 Yosemite Valley 117-18 Sequoia & Kings Canyon Palisades 161 plague 250 National Parks 166 logging 230 Pothole Dome 107-8 planning Inyo National Forest 148 Lone Pine 162-4 Sentinel Dome 62 budgeting 17 itineraries 24-7, 24, 25, Lone Pine Creek 178-9 Unicorn Peak 65 calendar of events 22-3 26, 27 lost property 242 White Mountain children, travel with 40 Lukens Lake 57 Peak 161 internet resources 17 Lundy Lake 145 Mt Dana 68 itineraries 24-7, 24, 25, J Lyell Canyon 80-1 Mt Whitney 11, 164, , 11 11 26 27 Muir, John 213, 214, 228 repeat visitors 18 Area 148 M Muir Rock 192 travel seasons 16 June Lake Loop 149-51 Majestic Yosemite Hotel mule 221 Yosemite, Sequoia & Kings Canyon basics junior ranger 14, 100-1, 14 museums & galleries 16-17 program 40 Mammoth Lakes 151-6 Ansel Adams Gallery poison oak 253 Manzanar National Historic 98-9 Site 162 State Mining & Poopenaut Valley 72 K maps 232, 233, 241 Mineral Museum 137 postal services 241 kayaking 34 Mariposa 137-8 Eastern California Pothole Dome 107-8 Sequoia & Kings Canyon Museum 161 Mariposa Battalion 211-12 National Parks 183 Giant Forest Museum Mariposa Grove 13, Yosemite National Park 187-8 R 110-12, 13 92-3 Laws Railroad Museum & radio 236 kennels 42 marmots 190, 222, 195 Historic Site 158 Rae Lakes 179-82, 180-1, Kings Canyon National May Lake 58-9 Mariposa Museum & 195 Park 165-6, 172-3, McGee Creek Rd 157 History Center 137 rafting 33 168-9 McGurk Meadow 61 Museum of Western Film Yosemite National Park accommodations McKinley Tree 171 History 162 92-3 199-201 medical services 249-50 Yosemite Museum 99 Rancheria Falls 86-7 day hikes 174-6, 175 Merced River Canyon Reds Meadow Valley 153 eating & drinking 202 136-7 reptiles 224-5 N overnight hikes 179-82 Midpines 136-7 reservations 117, 119, 237 national park policies & sights 189-93 189 regulations 17, 74, 122 Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Parks 166 Kings Canyon Scenic Mineral King Rd 182 pets 41 Byway 12, 185, 190-1, Yosemite National Mirror Lake 49 Native Americans 210 185, 12 Park 45 mobile phones 16, 242 navigation 232-3 river tours 33 258 road closures 17 Sequoia National Park eating & drinking 128 Rainbow Falls 153 road rules 246 187-9 hikes 56-60, 75-8 Rancheria Falls 86-7 rock climbing 10, 30-1, accommodations 196-8 skiing 95 Roaring River Falls 191- Sequoia & Kings Canyon day hikes 167-74, 167 swimming 93 2, 195 National Parks 183 eating & drinking 201 tourism 208-9, 214-15 safety 87, 253 Yosemite National Park overnight hikes 178-9 tourist information 242 Sentinel Fall 55

INDEX INDEX 90-2 sequoias, see giant tours 33, 248 Tokopah Falls 170-1 Rock Creek Road 157 sequoias train travel 247 Tueeulala Falls 70-2 rockfalls 253 showers 118, 204 transportation 16 Tuolumne Falls 67

R-Y rocks 219 shrubs 227 travel to/from Sierra 55-6, 133  route finding 233 skating 35 Nevada 244-7 Wapama Falls 70-2  RV rental 246 ski huts 96 travel within the Sierra Waterwheel Falls 85-6 Nevada 248 skiing 33-5 Yosemite Falls 102, Big Oak Flat Rd 95 trees 226-7, see also giant 8-9, 229 S sequoia Saddlebag Lake 142 Glacier Point 95 Wawona 109-12, 111 tubing 35, 97 safety 183, 209, 241, Mammoth Lakes 152 accommodations 123 249-53 Tioga Rd 95 Tueeulala Falls 70-2 eating & drinking 127-8 Tunnel Rock 188 bears 251 Wawona 95 hikes 68-70, 69 children 39 sledding 35, 97 Tunnel Tree 56 skiing 95 marmots 190 sleeping bags 234-5 Tuolumne Meadows 9, swimming 93 106-9, 108-9 pets 42 smoking 236 weather 16, 22-3, 236 accommodations 123 waterfalls 87, 253 bites 252-3 Whitney, Josiah 213 eating & drinking 128 Yosemite National snow camping 96-7 wilderness areas 148 hikes 64-8, 80-6, Park 129 snow play 35 64 wildflowers 225-6 rock climbing 91-2 scenic drives snow sports, see also winter activities 21, Kings Canyon Scenic individual sports swimming 93 see also individual Byway 12, 185, 190-1, Mammoth Lakes 151 Twin Lakes 150 activities, individual 185, 12 Sequoia & Kings Canyon locations Mineral King Rd 182 National Parks 186-7 winter driving 246-7 V Moro Rock Crescent snowboarding 33-5, 95 Woods Creek 179 vacations 241 Meadow Rd 184, 184 snowshoeing 35, 95-6 work 243 Vernal Fall 55-6, 133 Tioga Rd to Mono Lake solo travelers 242 187 viewpoints 19-20 88, 88 spider bites 253 Eagle View 178 Wawona Road & Glacier squirrels 222 Point Rd 89, 89 Olmsted Point 113 Y Stanford Point 54 Yosemite Community 55 Panoramic Point 191 stargazing 34, 107, 2 Church 99 Sequoia & Kings Canyon Yosemite Falls Steelhead Lake 157 Yosemite Conservation National Parks 165- Overlook 54 stock camps 92 Heritage Center 100 206, 168-9, 192 145 stoves 235 Yosemite Falls 102, , accommodations 165 Visalia 206 8-9 sunburn 252 229 books 203-4 visas 242 swimming 21, 32-3 Yosemite Gateways 136-40 entrances 166 Vogelsang 83-5, 84 Sequoia & Kings Canyon Yosemite High Sierra hikes 165, 176-82 volunteering 243 National Parks 183 Camps 13, 123, 13 internet access 204 Yosemite National Yosemite Mountaineering internet resources 166 Park 93 W School 91 laundry 204 Wapama Falls 70-2 Yosemite National Park maps 203-4 Washburn Point 105 44-131, 46-7 money 204 T waterfalls 9, 19 accommodations 116-24 Taft Point 61-2 postal services 204 Alder Creek Falls 70 boating 94 telephone services 16, 242 reservations 166 Bridalveil Fall 103 bookstores 129 Tenaya Creek 59 sights 187-93 California Falls 86 bouldering 90-1 Tenaya Lake 57-8, 113-14 telephone services 204 Carlon Falls 72 campfire programs 94 tennis 34 tourist information 204 Chilnualna Falls 69-70 cross-country skiing 95 tent cabins 238 travel to/from 204 cycling 87-90 tents 234 Horsetail Fall 103, 2 travel within 204 day hikes 48-72, 49, 57, Three Rivers 204-6 63 61, 64, 69, 71 Tioga Pass 109, 142-3 LeConte Falls 86 Marble Falls 171-2 downhill skiiing 95 Tioga Rd 9, 112, 112-13 Map Pages 000 Mist Falls 175-6 driving 87 accommodations 120-3 Photo Pages 000 Nevada Fall 55-6, 78 eating & drinking 125-9 259 entrance fees 45 overnight hikes 72-87, telephone services 130 eating & drinking 125-7 entrances 45 75, 76-7, 78, 79, 80, tourist information 130 hikes 48-56, 74-5, 49 fishing 93 82, 84, 85, 86 travel within 130-1 rock climbing 91 golf 94 postal services 130 tubing 97 swimming 93 guided trail rides 92 rafting 92-3 websites 130 Yosemite Valley Lodge hang gliding 94 reservations 45 winter activities 95-7 101-2 highlights 46-7 rock climbing 90-1 Yosemite Ski & Snowboard Yosemite Village 97-9, INDEX hiking 44 safety 129 Area 15, 105-6, 15 98-9, 124-5 ice-skating 96 sights 97-116 Yosemite surrounds 134- Young Lakes 81-3 internet access 129 sledding 97 64, 135  Y-Z snow camping 96-7 accommodations 134  kayaking 92-3 Z legal matters 129 snowboarding 95 food 134 Zumwalt Meadow 14, 175, media 129 snowshoeing 95-6 highlights 135 191, 14 medical services 129 stock camps 92 Yosemite Valley 97-103, 132 money 130 swimming 93 accommodations 116-18 260 NOTES 261 NOTES NIGEL HEANEY NIGEL

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Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkeling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing BART station Reef Other Activity Border crossing Boston T station Areas Sleeping Bus Airport/Runway Sleeping Cable car/Funicular Camping Cycling Beach/Desert Hut/Shelter Ferry Cemetery (Christian) Metro/Muni station Eating Monorail Cemetery (Other) Eating Parking Glacier Petrol station Drinking & Nightlife Subway/SkyTrain station Mudflat Drinking & Nightlife Taxi Park/Forest Cafe Train station/Railway Tram Sight (Building) Entertainment Underground station Sportsground Entertainment Other Transport Swamp/Mangrove Shopping Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in , London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Michael Grosberg Michael has worked on over 50 Lonely Planet guidebooks. Other international work included development on Rota in the western Pacific; South Africa where he investigated and wrote about political violence and trained newly elected gov- ernment representatives; and Quito, Ecuador, to teach. He received a Masters in Comparative Literature and taught literature and writing as an adjunct professor.

Jade Bremner Jade has been a journalist for more than a decade. She has lived in and reported on four different regions. Wherever she goes she finds action sports to try, the weirder the better. Jade has edited travel magazines and sections for Time Out and Radio Times, and has contributed to The Times, CNN and The Independ- ent. She feels privileged to share tales from this wonderful planet we call home and is always looking for the next adventure.

Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited CRN 554153 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona- 5th edition – Mar 2019 ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the ISBN 978 1 78657 595 1 accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum © Lonely Planet 2019 Photographs © as indicated 2019 extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in Singapore All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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