2019 BURGUNDY ––––––––––––––––––––

EN PRIMEUR OFFER JANUARY 2021

2019 Burgundy tasting – London Lockdown – Davy’s Boardroom, December 2020

2019 BURGUNDY ‘ON A HOT STREAK…’

The team and I have been tasting in Burgundy for a number of years now and nothing compares to tasting from barrel with the producers. However, we took the difficult decision, as we did too with both Bordeaux and Rhone earlier in the year, to abandon our plans of tasting visits during the pandemic.

Fortunately, the wine producing regions of France have adapted quickly to the circumstances 2020 has dealt us and barrel samples by express courier are now the norm – allowing the fine wine team to take part in socially distanced tastings at HQ in Greenwich, including zoom sessions with the winemakers. Not quite the same as being there, but close enough. We held our tastings over November and December and I’m pleased to report on a vintage that asks not why you should buy it, but rather, what reason have you not to?

It’s a year that’s difficult to compare to any other, especially as climate change becomes ever more apparent and a constant in the conversation surrounding recent vintages, not just in France but all over the world. Growers are moving away from picking based on potential alcohol levels and instead to levels of acidity. Despite the heat that scorched many vines during the summer, there is an intense freshness to the wines.

Brothers Xavier and Arnaud Desfontaine at Chateau de Chamilly report ‘grapes that were close to perfection. On the first day of the harvest a sorting table had been set up, however it was quickly decided that this would not be necessary due to the impeccable quality of the grapes’. Drouhin Laroze in Gevrey- Chambertin state simply that 2019 is ‘a great vintage’.

While we may be waiting a few more weeks before we see the scores from the critics, we have some early insight from the Wine Advocate’s Burgundy correspondent William Kelley, who says ‘the red wines are simply brilliant… I’m being impressed by how chiselled many 2019 whites are’, and from Jancis Robinson MW who adds ‘there are lots of delicious wines from cooler appellations within Burgundy, including the Hautes Côtes… it certainly affords canny buyers many opportunities to find sophisticated wines with less sophisticated appellations and prices. [Despite the heat] the absolute miracle was how many completely delicious 2019s have been made’.

Production is down by between 25% and 50% in some appellations, but prices for the most part have been held at 2018 levels, in recognition of unpredictable economic conditions. How such a warm and dry vintage has produced wines with such energy and balance is a question many of our growers can’t answer with complete certainty, however, what is certain is that 2019 is a superb vintage and one to fill your boots with.

Ben Grosvenor Head of Retail & Private Clients

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BURGUNDY REPORT 2019 DAVY’S FINE WINE

2019: A SNAPSHOT

 A dry winter in December 2018 and January 2019 put early stress on the vines.  April rains and frost were followed by damp conditions during flowering in June, affecting the eventual size of the crop.  A long dry and hot summer followed, giving ripeness to the grapes that had survived, though these dry conditions created more pressure for the vines, while increasing concentration in the grapes.  Concentration of acids in the grapes adds freshness and balance to wines with relatively high alcohol levels.  Quantity is down by an average of 25%.  Prices held or just above 2018 levels.  Ripe powerful reds with intense freshness – easy to taste, even at this early stage.  Joyful whites with full flavour yet finely tuned balance – think 2017 turned up.

THE GROWING SEASON

Rolling on from a very hot and dry summer in 2018, followed by below average rainfall in the winter, underground water reserves were depleted when 2019 came around. A warmer than normal January through to March meant that it was up to April to save the day with 84mm of rain.

It was also during April that frost struck on the 4th and 5th, affecting mainly Chardonnay which had seen bud burst a few days earlier – it was particularly bad on the slopes of Saint Aubin and Chassagne- Montrachet, which saw some vineyards lose up to 75% of the eventual crop.

June saw a higher than average rainfall, which meant some flowering was later than normal causing some millerandage and coulure, where there is poor or no fertilisation producing small or no grapes in the bunches.

Similar to the previous year, the summer was hot with temperatures peaking at 42’c, but there were fewer days with temperatures above 35’c and cooler nights, giving some reason to the retained levels of acidity in the grapes. 83mm of rain during July relieved some of the stress to the vines during a very dry August and September. One trend to note is that many growers are now turning away from trimming and removing leaves on the vine- historically done to help air circulation, avoid rot and gain maturity to the grapes – the leaves are now kept to protect the grapes from sunburn and put the brakes on ripening.

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SUMMARY

Quantities are lower, particularly with many of the 1er and Grand Cru sites and the smart money might use the opportunity of a wonderful year to buy outside of regularly favoured vineyards and even producers. Neal Martin flags Saint-Romain, of which we have a brilliant offering from Domaine Prunier-Bonheur and he notes Beaune as ‘the most underrated commune in the Côte d’Or’ – I agree and would be delighted to show you the exciting and energetic wines from Domaine Tollot-Beaut, which we’re proud to have followed for a few years now.

The reds are excellent and that freshness which we hear a lot about is evident and as a result, the slightly elevated alcohol levels are not out of balance. These are classic Burgundy, which show the terroir beautifully – whether this is your first vintage buying Burgundy en primeur or your twentieth, you’ll be pleased you did. Many will drink well within a couple of years of bottling, but the tannins and acidity should see the best age comfortably for the medium term.

The whites are captivating, perhaps more heterogenous. I can see elements of 2017 in the precision and acidity of the wines, but the ripeness of the fruit is so far removed from 2017 that drawing comparisons is not helpful. Most wines have got the balance just right and from Bourgogne Blanc to the famed slopes of Montrachet and Corton the fruit is glorious.

There’s great value to be had in 2019 whites, well demonstrated by the Côte Chalonnaise, which Neal Martin calls ‘a treasure trove of value… just wrap your palate around say, a Rully or some of those lovely Bouzerons to see what I mean’. Chamilly’s Bouzeron, new to us for 2019, is an Aligoté many of the team here will be adding to their cellars, along with Domaine Borgeot’s Rully Chaponniere. Chablis is fascinating this year and we’re pleased to add Domaine Roy to the 2019 offer – at entry level this is a must for spring and summer 2022 drinking.

There is of course value to be found in reds too, with villages-level Beaune and Aloxe-Corton offering oodles of sophistication, while Nuits-Saint-Georges and Gevrey-Chambertin really shine in 2019. At the top, the Chambertin Grand Crus are simply majestic.

Please take your time and have a look through all our growers. Our team are here to help guide you and would be only too happy to talk through what you are looking for and what might suit your cellar. Happy hunting!

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CONTENTS

CHABLIS Domaine Samuel Billaud, Chablis Domaine William Fevre, Chablis Domaine Roy, Chablis

CÔTE DE NUITS Domaine Drouhin-Laroze, Gevrey-Chambertin Domaine Heresztyn-Mazzini, Gevrey-Chambertin Domaine Marc Roy, Gevrey-Chambertin Domaine Rossignol Trapet, Gevrey-Chambertin Domaine Tortochot, Gevrey-Chambertin Domaine Confuron-Gindre, Vosne-Romanée Domaine Jacques Cacheux et Fils, Vosne-Romanée Domaine Lécheneaut, Nuits-Saint-Georges Domaine Bertrand Ambroise, Nuits-Saint-Georges

CÔTE DE BEAUNE Domaine Tollot-Beaut, Chorey-Lès-Beaune Bouchard Père et Fils, Beaune Domaine Joseph Voillot, Volnay Domaine Michelot, Meursault Domaine Pascal Prunier-Bonheur, Meursault Domaine Jean-Louis Chavy, Puligny-Montrachet Domaine Jean Pascal, Puligny-Montrachet Domaine Paul Pillot, Chassagne-Montrachet Domaine Borgeot, Remigny Domaine Bachelet-Monnot, Maranges

CÔTES CHALONNAISE Chateau de Chamilly, Chamilly

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CHABLIS

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DOMAINE SAMUEL BILLAUD, CHABLIS The 2019 vintage from the internationally renowned Samuel Billaud. Highly esteemed, Samuel is one of a kind, as Neal Martin rightly points out: ‘We should see him right at the top of Chablis producers alongside the likes of Raveneau and Vincent Dauvissat’.

WHITE Bourgogne, Côte d’Or Chardonnay 12 bts £125 Top end Bourgogne Chardonnay vinified in Chablis. This is a blend of fruit from Chablis and the Macconnais. Fermented steel vats and aged on lees to give further richness. This is superb crisp, and clean Chablis-like Bourgogne chardonnay with Maconnais twist. Petit Chablis 12 bts £140 This is not your normal Petit Chablis as it comes from a single plot of vines beautifully sited just above grand cru Les Clos. Vinified in stainless steel vats, this is crisp and pure. A splendid example of unoaked chardonnay that is every bit as good as any Chablis I've tasted this year. Chablis 12 bts £175 Samuel makes this crisp, fresh Chablis from three parcels of vines in different sectors of the appellation; Les Pargues towards the village of Préhy, Les Cartes between the premiers crus of Vaillons and Montmains where the vines are 60 years old and Bas de Chapelots just below Montée de Tonnerre. A lovely, aromatic wine with excellent freshness and minerality. Has fine concentration and will age gracefully. Chablis, 1er Cru ‘Vaillons’ 12 bts £275 Vaillons is one of the finest premiers crus on the left bank of the River Serein with a south- easterly exposure that captures all the morning sun. Fresh and aromatic this is delicious to enjoy young but the old vines contribute depth and concentration which enables it to age effortlessly. Chablis, 1er Cru ‘Les Fourneaux’ A warm, earlier-ripening vineyard on a south-facing slope in the village of Fleys on the right 12 bts £275 bank of the Serein. Farmed organically, this is a fuller, richer style of Chablis with lovely weight and intensity. Chablis, 1er Cru ‘Fourchaume’ 12 bts £315 Fermented half in stainless steel and half in 2- and 3-year-old 450 litre oak demi-muids from the Chassin tonnellerie in Rully. This is a great success, rich and aromatic without being too oaky. A fine, stylish wine with good structure and a lovely, generous texture. Chablis, 1er Cru ‘Montee de Tonnerre’ 12 bts £335 Vinified in the same manner as the Mont de Milieu, this comes from two plots of vines at different altitudes within Montée de Tonnerre; Chapelots near the base and Triangle higher up. Often Samuel’s finest premier cru combining the power of Mont de Milieu with the purity of Séchet. Chablis, Grand Cru ‘Bougros’ 12 bts £655 Like all the grands crus, this is fermented and aged for twelve months in 450 and 500 litre oak demi-muids followed by six months in stainless steel vats. Bougros is the most westerly of the grands crus and the warmth of the afternoon sun gives a richer, more opulent wine. The most open and aromatic of Samuel’s grands crus with magnificent fruit and length on the finish.

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DOMAINE WILLIAM FÈVRE, CHABLIS William Fèvre founded his domain in Chablis with 7 hectares of vines in 1959 and devoted immense efforts to extending and improving the Estate, while promoting the Chablis appellation. Today, William Fèvre is one of the most established and recognised landowners of the appellation with 78 hectares, of which 15.9 are classified as Premiers Crus and 15.2 as Grands Crus. The acquisition of the Estate by Maisons & Domaines Henriot in 1998 has strengthened that path. Each of the William Fèvre wines are a direct expression of the singular nature of these Chablis terroirs, known and renowned for their purity and mineral freshness.

WHITE Chablis 12 bts £160 Fleshy and elegant bouquet revealing citrus, white fruits and flower aromas. The mouth is fresh, supple underscored by mineral notes. Chablis, 1er Cru ‘Vaillons’ 6 bts £165 Fresh aromas, with a light floral bouquet and a note of white pepper. On the palate this is fresh, with melon and green apple, with a broadening on the finish, with ripe, pure fruit. Mineral and rounded. Chablis, 1er Cru ‘Beauroy’ 6 bts £175 Fine, subtle bouquet with lovely mineral and floral notes. On the palate, good balance between richness, liveliness and vigour. Chablis, 1er Cru ‘Montmains’ 6 bts £175 Exotic on the nose- quince and a hint of pineapple. Loads of texture on the ripe palate with broad, ripe fruit and a peppery note. Retains a sense of brightness and purity despite the breadth of the wine across the palate. Chablis, 1er Cru ‘Montée de Tonnerre’ 6 bts £240 Complex bouquet with floral and fruity aromas, and intense mineral notes. Structured palate in its youth, becoming more subtle and elegant and developing ripe fruit notes. Chablis, Grand Cru ‘Bougros’ 6 bts £265 This Climat lies at the very western end of the Grands Crus area, at altitudes ranging from 130 to 170 m on fairly deep marl and clay terrain with a southwest exposure. On the palate, this appellation’s wines are often very full and rich. Rich bouquet with intense mineral notes. Full and round, yet firm and massive on the palate. Chablis, Grand Cru ‘Valmur’ 6 bts £350 A Grand Cru site that sits on particularly deep soils, the wine produced here is powerful but not overblown. The aromas are relatively restrained in youth but the presence across the palate is massive, with a viscous and textured feel. Despite the ripeness the finish has a refreshing slatey minerality. Chablis, Grand Cru 'Les Preuses' 6 bts £375 Floral nose, with fruity aromas enhanced by intense mineral notes and developing lightly smoky touches. Very round on the palate, both full-bodied and refined. Chablis, Grand Cru ‘Bougros’, 'Côte Bouguerots' 6 bts £395 Bougros sits on a very steep slope, with a gradient of more than 30%, facing due south at the foot of the hill. The shallow soil, a mixture of clay and gravel, prevents excessive yields resulting in complex, robust wines. Complex and mineral bouquet, powerful and dense structure with pleasant roundness. Chablis, Grand Cru ‘Les Clos’ 6 bts £450 Largest and most famous Grand Cru; its fame based on history as one of Chablis’ first vineyards. Enjoys a southerly aspect with very white, dense and deep clay soil, resting on a limestone bed 80 cm below the ground, which brings to the wine those spicy notes so typical of this terroir. Remarkably complex bouquet, blending fruity, floral and spicy notes with a substantial mineral touch. Structured palate, opening up with age to give powerful, generous wines.

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DOMAINE ROY, CHABLIS The Roy family have been vignerons in the village of Fontenay, just to the north of Chablis, for over 200 years. Today Claude Roy, together with his children David and Karine, farm 18 hectares of vines on the right bank of the River Serein.

They are one of the largest owners of the grands crus including a magnificent 3.5 hectare plot in Bougros. They have only recently begun to bottle a significant proportion of their harvest, having previously sold a majority in bulk to the négociants. Overall, the domaine’s 2019s are crisper and more vibrant with higher acidity than the fatter, more opulent 2018s.

WHITE Chablis, ‘Coteaux de Fontenay’ 12 bts £155 The estate owns 9 hectares of Chablis vines in the villages of Fontenay and Maligny. Their Coteaux de Fontenay is their finest cuvée, from a plot of old vines on a steep, south facing hillside just outside the village of Fontenay adjacent to premier cru Fourchaume Chablis, 1er Cru ‘Fourchaume’ 12 bts £245 Fermented and aged for 12 months in stainless steel vats to maximise the expression of fruit. This is ripe and sunny whilst retaining fine freshness and vitality Chablis, Grand Cru ‘Les Preuses’ 12 bts £425 The Roy family own 0.5 hectares in the heart of grand cru Preuses. Consistently their finest wine with ripe, honeyed fruit, a generous texture and fine length on the finish

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CÔTE DE NUITS

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DOMAINE DROUHIN-LAROZE, GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN The Drouhin family own 11 hectares of vines including substantial holdings in some of the most famous Grand Cru sites in the Côte de Nuits. Since the 2014 vintage, Nicholas and Caroline have increasingly taken the reins from their father Philippe. This Domaine has a long history of very fine wine making. Caroline also sources grapes from a close-knit group of growers for a range of négociant wines, labelled as Maison Laroze de Drouhin.

Stain-glassed window, tasting room and cellar at Domaine Drouhin-Laroze

WHITE Bourgogne Blanc, Laroze de Drouhin 12 bts £135 Fresh apple and peach bouquet, a really charming ripeness and tension. Citrus bite and verve, some tropical fruit and zesty finish. A great one to have for earlier drinking. Très bon! RED Bourgogne Rouge, Laroze de Drouhin 12 bts £135 Pepper, plum, ripe sweet blueberry and raspberry. Humble but not without a good dose of rich red fruit and a touch of minerality and spice on the finish. Fixin 6 bts £130 Vibrant red cherry, floral too. Pretty and elegant with crunchy red fruit; good structure with some well-integrated tannins. Chalky, crushed stone, lovely length. Top value. Gevrey-Chambertin, Les Dix Climats 6 bts £170 30% new oak lends to an inviting dark and somewhat poised nose of spicy cedar, strawberry and black cherry. Crushed rocks, raisins, silky tannic structure, touch of ginger and soy on the finish – hard to spit! Chapelle-Chambertin, Grand Cru 3 bts £250 Beautiful bouquet of crushed violet aromas, black cherry and blueberry – some blood orange. Lovely density and weight on the palate, blackcurrant and fig. Polished and showing its lovely ripe fruit on the finish. Clos de Vougeot, Grand Cru 3 bts £285 Drouhin Laroze’s vines are on the upper slopes of the Clos Vougeot vineyard and this shows a rich and opulent nose with orange peel, a touch of smoke and oyster shell; mulberry, blueberry and violets. Dark black fruit on the palate, crunchy texture. Very concentrated and powerful tannins. Superbly focused, excellent energy and vibrant finish. Top notch! Bonnes-Mares, Grand Cru 3 bts £345 Trademark Bonnes-Mares ripeness, hint of Chambolle floral notes mingle beautifully with rich black fruit beneath the surface. Such freshness balanced so well with an array of hedgerow fruit, black cherries, touch of pepper, blood orange and silky-smooth tannins, this is utterly thrilling. Chambertin-Clos de Beze, Grand Cru 3 bts £360 Super focused and precise bouquet of dark cherry, raspberry and blackberry, lovely wet stone mineralité. Plum and violet, very energetic on the palate, turmeric and cedar from the oak don’t upset the superb balance. The finish is perfect: spice, tannin, supporting acidity – harmonious!

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DOMAINE HERESZTYN-MAZZINI, GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN We first offered the wines of this star domaine in the 2018 vintage and we’re pleased to list these again for 2019, as they continue to excel. Florence took over the winemaking at the family estate along with husband Simon in 2012 and together they have pushed the wines to a new level of quality (and they were pretty good before!). The farming here is certified organic and follows biodynamic principles. They favour the use of whole bunch fermentation, particularly in warm vintages and the wines are bottled without fining and filtration, resulting in a style that is elegant, perfumed and pure- but with no lack of power, intensity and potential to age.

RED Gevrey-Chambertin, Vieilles Vignes 6 bts £225 Made using old vines from several sites in Gevrey-Chambertin. Elegant red fruits on the palate with a hint of spice. Structure and depth from the old vine fruit. In oak for 16-18 months, 30% of which is new. Gevrey-Chambertin, 1er Cru La Perrière 6 bts £380 The finest and most forward of the Domaine’s Gevrey Premier Crus. An alluring nose with morello cherries. Fresh and charming, this will be approachable young but has the density and balance to develop in the cellar. 30% new oak. Gevrey-Chambertin, 1er Cru Les Goulots 6 bts £380 This is all about purity of fruit, with elegant integrated tannins. Very forward aromas of concentrated brambly fruit and spice. Smooth on the palate, refreshing and satisfying with an effortless balance. 35% new oak. Morey-Saint-Denis, 1er Cru Les Millandes 6 bts £380 Ripe and rounded sweet fruit on the palate, lifted by the use of whole bunches in the fermentation. The fruit here is open and giving but not lacking in depth and complexity. 35% new oak. Clos-Saint-Denis, Grand Cru 6 bts £995 Dense fruit, black cherries, mocha, black pepper. Complex and harmonious, will reward ageing. Impressively layered already but only hinting at its full potential. Long mineral finish. 40% new oak.

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DOMAINE MARC ROY, GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN We were thrilled to be able to offer the brilliant wines of Domaine Marc Roy starting with the 2016 vintage. We’re delighted to be able to continue our offer with this dynamic winery with the 2019s. Without doubt, Alexandrine at Domaine Marc Roy is one of the finest up and coming wine-makers in the Côtes de Nuits. These are truly exciting wines, load up now before demand spreads further. ‘Once again, the quality Roy achieves with villages level vineyards is rarely matched’, Allen Meadows, Burghound.

Alexandrine Roy with Ben Grosvenor and team in the vineyards

WHITE Marsannay, ‘Les Champs Perdrix’ 6 bts £155 Chalky minerality, fascinating texture, great freshness to rich stone fruit. Apricot, suggestion of ginger and almond – balanced beautifully. Such tiny quantities, always a favourite with our customers and easy to see why.

RED Bourgogne Rouge 6 bts £120 Sweet ripe strawberry, red and black cherry, pure with a hint of something savoury. Good grip, powerful and intense for this level, lovely acidity and length. Really has Alexandrine’s signature. Gevrey-Chambertin, ‘Vieilles Vignes’ 6 bts £245 A favourite in 2019. Beautifully pretty and pure, elegant red fruit, wonderful tannins, structure and depth – a masterclass in balance and at villages level demonstrates why Alexandrine Roy’s wines are quickly becoming some of the most sought-after in Gevrey – punches well above humble villages appellation. Gevrey-Chambertin, ‘Clos Prieur’ 6 bts £280 Concentrated purple and black fruit, plums and bramble, a touch of smoke and liquorice. Very well integrated tannins here, with lavender and a touch of spice – cool fresh fruit on the classy finish. Gevrey-Chambertin, Cuvée Alexandrine 6 bts £385 A powerful blend from Alexandrine’s top six blocks, this covers the whole spectrum of fruit profiles! Sweet red cherry, pomegranate and lovely spice in this aromatically intense Gevrey- Chambertin. Deep and inviting, the balance is spot on, this is everything the top 2019s should be. Superb.

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DOMAINE ROSSIGNOL TRAPET, GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN Another spectacular Domaine that is fully biodynamic. Brothers Nicholas and David keep raising the bar for sensational wine making and the biggest problem we ever have is getting enough wines from them at every level. The secret, that is the quality of the wines here, is very much out there so grab them while you can.

Nicolas Rossignol at Domaine Rossignol-Trapet

RED Bourgogne Rouge 12 bts £185 Rossignol-Trapet’s Bourgogne Rouge is a hit again in 2019. Ripe, fresh and expressive nose, with charming red fruits and notes of violet dominating the aromas. Sparky and vibrant, with redcurrants and blueberry on the palate, finishing with a hint of that elusive minerality. Gevrey-Chambertin, Vieilles Vignes 6 bts £185 Crushed rock, dark bramble, blackberry and earthy tones. Lovely tension, rich and bold. Tidy integrated tannins, complex depth with concentration of dark fruit and a suggestion of cardamom. A certain contender for one of the values of the vintage, this outperforms its villages appellation. Gevrey-Chambertin, 1er Cru ‘Petite Chapelle’ 6 bts £395 Zippy and alive on the palate, with a smoky, peppery note that initially appears on the nose carrying through and lingering on the moreish finish. There is a serious note underpinning the vibrancy here that suggests that those with patience will be handsomely rewarded. Chapelle-Chambertin, Grand Cru 6 bts £675 Real depth of fruit and density on the nose, with Morello cherries and cigar box spice coming through. Spicy notes of black pepper and cinnamon are evident but are enveloped by plush fruit. Seriously seductive now, this is powerful and crackling with energy.

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DOMAINE TORTOCHOT, GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN Based in the centre of Gevrey-Chambertin, Chantal Tortochot is a shining example of wines which demonstrate the energy and personality of their keeper. Her verve and charm show beautifully in these powerful but elegant expressions of Gevrey. Consistently producing what’s recognised as one of the top Clos de Vougeot in blind tastings, the wines of Domaine Tortochot represent superb value for money from villages to Grand Cru, where value for money is increasingly difficult to find.

Madame Chantal Tortochot sharing the vintage’s cask samples with James Davy

RED Morey-Saint-Denis 6 bts £150 Intensely ripe and dark fruit of blackberry and plum on the nose. Touch savoury. Floral and mineral notes. Grippy structure, sweet tannins, good line of acidity, lovely zippy finish – off to a good start. Gevrey-Chambertin, ‘Les Corvees’ 6 bts £175 A little shy on the nose, to be expected recently sulphured. Bright blue and purple fruit, succulent and vibrant, cracking touch of spice and hedgerow fruit. Good energy on the finish. Gevrey-Chambertin, 1er Cru ‘Lavaux-Saint-Jacques’ 6 bts £285 Jasmine, elegant but poised power beneath the surface. Mineralité, tightly structured and dense, pure and well-defined fruit, blackberry, strawberry – very pretty but don’t be fooled, this is wonderfully complex. Excellent spicy length. Clos de Vougeot, Grand Cru 6 bts £675 Wonderful purity on the nose, so fresh and perfumed. Beautiful silky tannins, great energy to rich red fruit. This has regal elegance and balance. Mazis-Chambertin, Grand Cru 6 bts £725 Intense bouquet of precocious red fruit laced with pressed flowers, sage and subtle tobacco scents. terrific energy and peppery pungency to its flavours of dark raspberry, black cherry, liquorice and crushed rock. Finishes with outstanding length. Chambertin, Grand Cru 6 bts £795 Shy on the nose initially – very tight but incredible concentration. Becomes impressively expressive after coaxing, plum, blueberry, exciting freshness and vibrancy. Cracking structure and sweet tannins, so concentrated. One for the cellar – you won’t be disappointed.

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DOMAINE CONFURON-GINDRE, VOSNE-ROMANÉE Confuron-Gindre are based in Vosne Romanée and are run by Claudine and François Confuron, with increasing input from their son Edouard. They have a growing reputation and produce serious wines that are often dense and have excellent ageing potential, partly due to the cool cellars resulting in a longer malolactic fermentation and wines that knit together tightly. The ripeness of 2019 means that these wines will be accessible ‘on the fruit’ relatively young, but the structure and dark, elegant fruits will reward patience. Edouard’s influence has seen some whole-bunch fermentation in the winemaking and new oak is used in varying degrees across the range but is always wonderfully integrated and harmonious.

WHITE Bourgogne Chardonnay 12 bts £TBC Bottled in September 2019 after one year in oak barrels (20% new), this has a viscous mouthfeel and is well-balanced on the palate with ripe fruit and a nutty complexity showing through even at this early stage. Savoury and deep but bright and fresh as well.

RED Bourgogne Rouge 12 bts £TBC Made up from parcels across Vosne-Romanée with old vines up to 80 years old (the youngest vines used here are 27 years old). Vibrant red berries and cherries with finesse and structure from the old vines and time in barrel. Nuits-Saint-Georges 6 bts £TBC Expressive and open, with fresh vibrant red fruit and medium bodied structure that suggests this will keep well for the medium term. 25% new oak, from 4 parcels on the border with Vosne- Romanée. Vosne-Romanée 6 bts £TBC Pure and slightly more restrained at this stage than the Nuits-Saint-Georges. Tasting straight from new oak barrel (which will make up 25% of the final blend), this was already integrating the oak in the fruit very nicely. Vosne-Romanée, 1er Cru 'Les Beaumonts' 6 bts £TBC Les Beaumonts is well exposed to the sun and this is apparent in the fullness and warmth of this wine. Rounded with red plums and blueberries shining through, this will give enormous pleasure. Echezeaux, Grand Cru 6 bts £TBC Brooding and deep, quite closed on the nose initially, unfurling slowly. Black cherries and pepper, serious power and depth with a lengthy finish. Impressive. 50% new oak barrels.

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DOMAINE JACQUES CACHEUX ET FILS, VOSNE-ROMANÉE Low yields in 2019 (32hl/ha maximum) as a result of the dry summer but amazing depth and concentration as a result. Patrice and his son Charles continue to harvest relatively late at full maturity, destem all the grapes and practise a careful extraction of tannin with the minimum of pigeage. All the barrels come from tonnellerie François Frères in Saint Romain and the style remains one of rich, ripe fruit allied to just the right amount of new oak.

RED Vosne-Romanée 12 bts £425 From a number of small plots throughout the appellation. Lovely, red and black fruits on the nose, a lively, fresh texture and a long, generous finish. Quintessential Vosne. Vosne-Romanée,’ Les Chalandins’ 12 bts £495 From the northern end of Vosne in the direction of Clos Vougeot. Sumptuous fruit, ripe and opulent. Finishes sweet and long. Will be hugely enjoyable young and age splendidly. Echezeaux, Grand Cru 12 bts £1,395 Amazing depth and concentration with rich, spicy aromas, dark, sweet fruit and long, generous aftertaste.

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DOMAINE LÉCHENEAUT, NUITS-SAINT-GEORGES Splendid, ten-hectare estate, created by Fernand Lécheneaut in the 1980s when land was affordable and which is now run by his sons Philippe and Vincent. In 2019 they decided to harvest early (6th to 15th September) in order to avoid any trace of over-ripeness and have been rewarded with a glorious range of well-balanced, rich yet fresh wines. Yields of 30-35 hl/ha were 25% down on 2018 and Vincent fermented most of the wines with 30% whole bunches. As usual, the wines have been aged for 12 months in barrel with 80% being supplied by Francois Frères. A stunning range spanning most of the great villages of the Côte de Nuits.

RED Nuits-Saint-Georges, 'Au Chouillet' 12 bts £450 The vines in this 0.7 hectare plot on the Vosne-Romanée side of Nuits are over 70 years old and merit being vinified separately. Magnificent red and black cherry fruit allied to smoky, spicy flavours. A generous, fleshy wine with fine weight and concentration. Will age spectacularly. Nuits-Saint-Georges, 1er Cru ‘Les Damodes’ 12 bts £675 The most northerly vines of Nuits-Saint-Georges, on the border with Vosne-Romanée. Lovely harmony and finesse as well as the traditional Nuits power.

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DOMAINE BERTRAND AMBROISE, NUITS-SAINT- GEORGES Bertrand and Martine Ambroise head up a 21-hectare domaine with much of the work now done by their son François and daughter Ludivine. The wines are well-known for their ability to age but François has introduced additional freshness and elegance into the wines without losing any of their traditional depth and concentration. In 2019, the domaine harvested relatively late, benefitting from the welcome mid- September rain. The pinot noir was destemmed as usual and the wines were aged in oak for between 12 and 18 months.

RED Nuits-Saint-Georges, ‘Vieilles Vignes’ 12 bts £375 This is 1er Cru quality, unsurprising since it comes from three plots of 70-year-old vines just below premier cru Les Saint Georges. Dense and backward but with a core of intense, concentrated fruit, this requires patience but will age magnificently. Vosne-Romanée, ‘Les Damaudes’ 12 bts £475 From just above the grand cru of La Tâche. Aged in 50% new oak, this is smoother and softer than the Domaine’s Nuits wines but has fine intensity and will age equally well. Nuits-Saint-Georges, 1er Cru ‘Les Vaucrains’ 12 bts £625 With Les Saint Georges, widely recognised as the two finest premiers crus of Nuits. Dense and concentrated with intense, ripe, red cherry and blackberry fruit. Plenty of firm but ripe tannins and an amazing, long, sweet finish.

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CÔTE DE BEAUNE

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DOMAINE TOLLOT-BEAUT, CHOREY-LÈS-BEAUNE Based in the lesser-known appellation of Chorey-Lès-Beaune and now run by the energetic 5th generation Nathalie Tollot, the wines of Domaine Tollot-Beaut are easily recognised by their wonderful purity of fruit and brilliant balance with wonderful spice and generous oak. New to the Davy’s Burgundy portfolio for the 2017 vintage, we’re delighted to offer their wines for a third year- this is a producer we would highly recommend keeping an eye on as the wines are attracting significant critical acclaim. Tollot-Beaut have produced another outstanding set of wines in 2019 and will make some of our top recommendations across all levels. Pioneers in the early 20th century for producing and bottling Domaine wines, investment in the future continues in both the vineyard and the winery.

WHITE Bourgogne Blanc 12 bts £180 Taste and re-taste. Surely this wine should display more heat on the palate to have reached 14% alcohol but not at all. Simply moreish and easy. Will drink from landing and be a lovely glass. Corton-Charlemagne, Grand Cru 3 bts £295 With 5 barrels made we are on a long waiting list to get more wine from this vineyard. And we will not leave the queue. The wine here is sublime.

RED Bourgogne Rouge 12 bts £180 Another miracle for the year. This plot was picked and brought to the winery in 35 degrees. However, if you have air conditioning going full blast in the cellar you can cool the fruit and set about making delicious wine. And they have. Darker fruit notes than you may ordinarily expect but otherwise balanced and a treat at this level. Chorey-Lès-Beaune 6 bts £115 Lovely weight to this wine and retains a lifting freshness. Very well made. Always one of the best values of the vintage. Aloxe-Corton 6 bts £175 There is a core of red fruit cloaked by darker notes, very fine tannins and overall a joy that holds in the mouth for some time. Aloxe-Corton, 1er Cru ‘Les Vercots’ 6 bts £210 The clone of Pinot Noir here is described as very ‘fine’. Producing smaller grapes with greater concentration. Very elegant and yes great concentration. The downside is only 4,000 bottles made. Very good. Corton-Bressandes, Grand Cru 3 bts £195 Massive, powerful, as per the vintage a lot of dark fruit intertwined with red. Beautifully balanced and a joy.

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BOUCHÀRD PÈRE ET FILS, BEAUNE Maison Bouchard Père & Fils has been championing Burgundy’s spirit and values for the past 300 years. Established in 1731 by Michel Bouchard, a draper merchant from the Dauphiné region, Maison Bouchard Père & Fils has built a unique and exceptional heritage. Settled in the Château de Beaune since 1820, its wines benefit from the best ageing conditions in the underground galleries of this royal fortress from the 15th century. The Bouchard Père & Fils Estate holds some of the finest plots in the most prestigious Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune vineyards with more than two-thirds planted in Grands Crus and Premiers Crus appellations. The same, exclusive high standards underpin every single wine that is matured at the Maison. Vinegrowers, workers and the cellar master share the same values: respecting the integrity of the grape and the unique features of the terroirs. Through an approach that exclude any artificial method in favour of gentle, precise winemaking where each cuvée is left to mature naturally, at its own pace.

WHITE Meursault, ‘Les Clous’ 6 bts £175 Intense bouquet of fruit and flowers combined with a delicate mineral hint. Rich and subtle wine which is crisp, making it well balanced. Beaune, ‘Clos St Landry’, Monopole 6 bts £250 One for the hedonists- bursts out the glass with aromas of ripe peach, quince and sweet red apples. There are bundles of exotic spices here with cardoman, fresh vanilla and even coconut. Opulent and rich, this will have a lot of appeal in youth but has all the stuffing to last and develop complexity. Meursault, 1er Cru ‘Les Genevrières’ 6 bts £325 Subtle bouquet of fruit and flowers combined with toasted notes. Full yet refined, without the slightest heaviness and with the liveliness typical of Les Genevrières. A voluptuous wine. Good ageing potential. Meursault, 1er Cru ‘Perrières’ 6 bts £365 Less expressive on the nose at this embryonic stage than some of the other whites here, this gives up a subtle bouquet of white flowers on the nose with a bit of coxing. On the palate, the wine shows enormous depth, with a mouthfilling texture that remains quite tight. Will need a little patience but expect this to be spectacular with a few years bottle age. Corton-Charlemagne, Grand Cru 3 bts £350 Intense fruit and toasted aromas blended with the mineral notes typical of this appellation on the nose. A rich, powerful wine with a strong personality. Very good ageing potential. Chevalier-Montrachet, Grand Cru 3 bts £675 Distinguished bouquet, with floral and fruit aromas as well as a toasted note. Complex and rich, without the heaviness, this wine is elegance itself. Very good ageing potential. Le Montrachet, Grand Cru 3 bts £1,475 Exquisite bouquet with a variety of aromas skilfully blended with toasted notes. Perfect harmony between power, smoothness and delicacy. The "king of kings". Very good ageing potential.

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BOUCHÀRD PÈRE ET FILS, BEAUNE

RED Beaune Gréves, 1er Cru ‘l’Enfant Jesus’ 6 bts £495 Superb fruit and spice aromas with an oaky note on the nose. Intense, full and yet delicate on the palate, the wine has a charming velvetiness. Very good ageing potential. Beaune, ‘Clos de la Mousse’, Monopole 6 bts £225 Lifted red fruits, with bright red cherry and strawberries, alongside a subtle spice note. On the finish this is more serious than is suggested by the fruit profile- plenty of potential. A lovely balance of charm and depth, supremely drinkable. Le Corton, Grand Cru 3 bts £250 Serious, ripe and impressive, this is powerful with masses of ripe tannin. The fruit is plush, with blackberries and black. Still tightly coiled and with plenty more to give in time. Finishes with an appealing and very serious kick of black pepper. Nuits-Saint-Georges, 1er Cru ‘Les Cailles’ 6 bts £395 Intense notes of black fruit blended with oaky touches and delicately spiced. Full and fleshy on the palate, the structure of this wine is based around elegant tannins. Very good ageing potential. Vosne-Romanée, 1er Cru ‘Les Beaux Monts’ 6 bts £555 Very refined nose of red and black fruit entwined with a very light hint of oak. Very perfumed, rich and fleshy mouth. A racy wine. Very good ageing potential. Echezeaux, Grand Cru Intense aromas of red fruit and spices entwined with oaky hints. This wine is a perfect marriage 3 bts £555 of the elegance of its terroir and the power of its Grand Cru standing. Very good ageing potential. Chambertin-Clos de Bèze, Grand Cru 3 bts £845 Intense and complex aromas on the nose. Structured - though not excessively - and with lovely fleshiness, this is a sumptuous wine with a great ageing potential.

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DOMAINE JOSEPH VOILLOT, VOLNAY Admired by all the up-and-coming winemakers, Jean-Pierre Charlot (Joseph Voillot’s son-in-law: ‘winemaker par excellence chez Voillot’, Neal Martin) is something of the grand master, most probably because at some stage he will have had a hand in their wine making education. A charming, ebullient man whose wines are designed to last the long term. They are finely balanced though and can be approached young, not his preference but he knows full well ‘chacun son gout’ (we all have our own tastes). Jean- Pierre’s enthusiastic nephew Etienne has recently taken the reigns at the Domaine and believes that 2019 has been a superb year, with wines that are ripe and structured. ‘These are wines, to put it prosaically, that represent proper Burgundy’, Neal Martin.

Tasting at Domaine Voillot, Volnay

RED Bourgogne Rouge 12 bts £175 From old vines, the fruit profile is bright and pure but there is grip and depth here. The fruit is warming and the finish spicy. This is in quite a serious phase but is impressive nonetheless. The 2016 as reported last year is still showing just how charming these wines are after several years in bottle! Volnay, Vieilles Vignes 6 bts £155 Lots of bright red fruit here, with a real sense of vibrancy on the palate. The balance is superb and effortless, with a soft hint of spice. Beautifully expressive of the charm that is often so evident in the best wines of Volnay, this will be approachable a little sooner than the Pommard. Volnay, 1er Cru ‘Champans’ 6 bts £275 Generous bouquet of spicy red cherry and ripe strawberry. Supple, rounded, full of energy on the palate, disguises the depth and structure beneath. Intensely fresh with grippy tannins, concentration of red and black fruit on the lengthy finish. Pommard, Vieilles Vignes 6 bts £165 Massive depth on the nose, rich with black fruit and spice and even a hint of liquorice. The palate follows up on the promise of the aromas, with depth and a long, resolved finish. Will age well. Pommard, 1er Cru ‘Pezerolles’ 6 bts £360 A masterclass in purity and finesse – beautiful aromas of licorice, rich ripe cherry and violets. Crushed stone, silky texture to the almost sweet red and black fruit. Fine tannins and excellent length. Pommard, 1er Cru ‘Les Epenots’ 6 bts £365 Alluring intensity of fruit on the nose with exotic spices and cigar box aromas. Ripe and rounded on the palate, the tannins are prominent but very well managed. Fruit cake and black cherry. Very good indeed and immense ageing potential.

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DOMAINE MICHELOT, MEURSAULT Finding both quality and quantity in the finest Domaines of Burgundy is not easy. Domaine Michelot however boasts a total of 19 hectares of vines and they apply the most natural methods possible to optimise the quality of the grapes. Their wines are simply delicious and display the finest characteristics of Meursault. Jean-Francois Mestre has been in charge since 1993 but increasingly his son Nicolas drives the winemaking with a focus on crystalline purity of fruit and expression of terroir.

New Vs Old: Concrete eggs and traditional barrels are being used at Michelot

WHITE Meursault 6 bts £160 Lemon and orange peel, touch of white pepper and saline – pure and a touch chalky too. Lime, fresh herb and a great use of oak lends spicy cedar to the finish. Meursault, ‘Clos St Felix’ 6 bts £179 The soil is a clay limestone mix with a subsoil of gravel which lends the wine a character that is unique in the appellation. This is a wine of great finesse in which one regularly finds the scents of white spring flowers, particularly hawthorn. Meursault, 1er Cru ‘Les Charmes’ 6 bts £325 Wonderfully intense nose of zesty citrus, orchard fruit, bay leaf and menthol. Fresh apples and star anise, really pleasing suggestion of spice and grip on the palate. Depth and concentration – layer after layer of rich stone fruit with a beautiful acidity – balance is spot on. Savoury alongside the fruit on the lengthy finish. A real highlight from Meursault.

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DOMAINE PASCAL PRUNIER-BONHEUR, MEURSAULT The impossibly charming Pascal Prunier-Bonheur took over at the Domaine in 1983 as the fifth generation of this super quality-driven winegrowing family. With 6 hectares of vines over the Côte de Beaune, Pascal’s aim is to reflect the vineyard and allow the grapes to speak for themselves. Pure, elegant and showing wonderful energy across the range, our advice is to start following them now before others do. Pascal cut his holidays short to start the harvest on the 29th August. His opinion was to manage freshness and alcohol levels there was no other choice. Tasting his wines at this early stage he was, as with all the other top growers we visited, spot on.

WHITE Le P’tit Bonheur Blanc, Coteaux Bourguignons 12 bts £110 Restrained but ripe citrus fruit notes and lovely saline mineral finish. From old vines on gravel soils running alongside the Meursault appellation. Fermented in oak 5% of which is new. The addition of new oak is a first at this Domaine for this wine, as Pascal felt the power of the vintage could handle it. The result is impressive. Saint-Romain, ‘Combe Bazin’ 6 bts £99 Ripe citrus notes balanced by a fine mineral finish makes this an attractive even, and pretty style of wine that will be lovely from arrival next year and for several years thereafter. Auxey-Duresses, ‘Les Crais’ 6 bts £109 Mineral and freshness are a constant theme in this vintage when harvested at the end of August. Saline is a flavour that dominates many notes and really good substance to this wine. Beaune, ‘Clos St Desiree’ 6 bts £133 Aromas of baked apple and citrus with notes of vanilla and spice. Medium to full-bodied with a buttery texture well balanced with a refreshing acidity and a long finish. Meursault, ‘Grands Charrons’ 6 bts £189 Only 1,800 bottles made. I really like this, as it has everything a great Meursault should have, all the elegance matched by powerful and long minerality. We will take what we can to offer. Meursault, ‘Clous Vieilles Vignes’ 6 bts £209 The Les Clous vineyard in Meursault has a south-easterly exposure, meaning that the vines can take full advantage of the warm morning sun. Spending around 14 months in oak, 20% of which was new, and further richness was added by Pascal Prunier-Bonheur with occasional lees stirring

RED Auxey-Duresses Rouge, 1er Cru ‘Les Duresses’ 6 bts £133 From 80-year-old vines the step up in concentration between this and the Village is immediate. Really lovely layers of balanced red and black fruits with that robust character from the appellation. This will offer great drinking for a decade. Beaune Rouge, 1er Cru ‘Les Sizies’ 6 bts £163 1er Cru vineyards located towards Pommard this has a touch of the Côte de Nuits about it. Rich dark core, great length. Excellent.

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DOMAINE JEAN-LOUIS CHAVY, PULIGNY-MONTRACHET Brothers Jean-Louis and Alain have split the well-known family vineyards between them. Jean-Louis works with 6 hectares of vines and has built his own winery that was finished in 2004. As you would expect everything is spotlessly clean and well presented. The winemaking and ageing style is traditional, producing an elegant style of Puligny with very subtle use of oak. Jean-Louis believes that when well-made, the whites of the Côte de Beaune have the capacity to cellar well from hot vintages, citing 2003 as an example of a vintage that has produced wines that have lasted the course more easily than many expected. Picking began here at the end of August.

WHITE Puligny-Montrachet 6 bts £170 Green fruits mingle with floral notes on the nose. Vibrant on the palate with a limey intensity and brightness. Aged in 350 litre barrels, 20% of which was new. Puligny-Montrachet, 1er Cru ‘Clavoillon’ 6 bts £259 From vineyards right in the middle of the Puligny Appellation between Perrieres to the north and Les Pucelles to the south, Jean-Louis has 0.32 ha of vines planted in 1952 just below the border with Folatieres. Puligny-Montrachet, 1er Cru ‘Les Folatières’ 6 bts £270 Really expressive aromas with lifted fresh citrus and peach on the palate. Slightly creamy texture, ripe but restrained and with a sense of energy.

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DOMAINE JEAN PASCAL, PULIGNY-MONTRACHET This domaine is run with great skill by Jean Pascal’s daughter-in-law Alexandra (alongside her responsibilities as deputy mayor for the village!). The Puligny-Montrachet here is superb and we feel offers very good value. Harvesting took place at the end of August, early enough to retain a seam of zippy acidity in the wines that balances the ripe fruit in this warm vintage. The wines are bottled under high-spec stoppers manufactured in Italy. These eliminate the risk of cork taint but are cleverly made to allow a controlled but minimal exchange of oxygen.

James Davy with Alexandra Pascal tasting the Domaine’s wines

WHITE Puligny-Montrachet 6 bts £175 Loads of sparky energy and density on the palate. Tight structure, persistent with a long mineral finish. Floral and ripe with a slight hint of nuttiness. Will keep well for the medium term but certainly approachable on release.

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DOMAINE PAUL PILLOT, CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET With 13 hectares in Chassagne and Saint Aubin, Thierry Pillot makes sublime wines from Aligoté to 1er Cru Chassagne-Montrachet. He and his sister Chrystelle (married to Arnaud Mortet, of Domaine Denis Mortet in Gevrey-Chambertin) are both charming and tasting with Thierry it’s easy to imagine his bright, lively personality carrying though into the wines. Minimum oak intervention and respect for the terroir, you are looking at sheer elegance throughout, minerality being the favoured expression.

Cask samples at the Domaine with Thierry Pillot

WHITE

Aligoté 6 bts £59 We’re glad to welcome back a customer favourite in 2019 – one of our top picks from Burgundy’s ‘other’ white grape. Touch of honey and marzipan – toffee apple complexity balanced beautifully with tart citrus fruit. Saint Aubin, 1er Cru ‘Les Charmois’ 6 bts £175 Pretty nose of white-fleshed fruit aromas, cut with lemongrass, wet stone and soft spice. Judicious use of oak here, brilliantly balanced. Vibrant minerality on the impressively complex and lingering finish. Chassagne-Montrachet 6 bts £190 Pure, good definition, floral nose with a touch of salinity and intense aromas of apple and honey. Balanced, precise, concentrated and pure – complete Chassagne. Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru, ‘Les Champs Gain’ 6 bts £285 Beautifully complex and interesting nose – orange peel, pear, white flowers and a touch of caramel. Crisp on the palate, wonderfully balanced with a touch of spice – superb tension and energy. Long finish. Chassagne-Montrachet, 1er Cru ‘Clos Saint Jean’ 6 bts £285 Lemon, clementine, almond and apricot, gorgeously aromatic nose. Concentrated and seamless with firm acidity, ripe pear, white pepper, stone and orchard fruit – cracking combo of weightlessness and power. Moreish and persistent finish.

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DOMAINE L & P BORGEOT, REMIGNY Laurent and his brother Pascal are passionate about every aspect of their vines. From their base in the village of Remigny on the borders of Chassagne-Montrachet and Santenay their holdings cover both appellations to the tune of some 20 hectares.

Laurent and Sandra Borgeot

WHITE Bourgogne Blanc, Clos de Carbonnade 12 bts £118 Single vineyard Bourgogne Blanc offering terrific value and showing the hallmarks of the vintage. A nose of white flowers with aromas of pear and juniper berries. The freshness brings the balance. The palate is generous and lifted by a backbone of acidity and orange peel. Rully Blanc, ‘La Chaponniere’ 6 bts £81 Fresh, floral, beautifully charming nose, hint of almond and citrus. Good grip and balance, rich stone fruit but in check with gorgeous zippy acidity. Santenay, La Comme Dessus 6 bts £119 A charming wine that draws you in with its notes of exotic fruit and a hint of vanilla, all held together with a beautiful acidity that lends itself to making this a perfectly balanced wine.

RED Santenay, 1er Cru Les Gravières Rouge 6 bts £119 Great nose, smoky, touch of peat and mineralité. Fresh black cherry, redcurrant – some medicinal depth! Good freshness and length – love the sweetness of the red fruit.

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DOMAINE BACHELET-MONNOT, MARANGES We have followed brothers Marc and Alexandre Bachelet for some years since they took over at this 10- hectare Domaine in Maranges. A Domaine totally on track: from both improvements in the cellar buildings, to the pursuit of natural greatness in the vineyards. They even have three different types of grape press to respect every terroir. Pretty much organic, but like many growers they reserve the right to intervene in the vines, should the need arise. Wines that showcase purity of fruit and the vineyard sites. Notable as standard bearers for the relatively unknown Maranges appellation. For the whites, gentle pressing and controlled use of oxygen in the élevage of the wines is more important than excessive batonnage (lees stirring), resulting in exceptionally pure wines.

Alexandre Bachelet with James Davy

WHITE Chassagne-Montrachet 6 bts £190 Broad nose, textured and ripe mouthfeel with rounded stone fruit. Well balanced with a refreshing yet complex savoury finish. Puligny-Montrachet 6 bts £215 This will cellar for slightly longer than the Chassagne and may take slightly longer to come around. Dense and broad with a balance and elegance that is characteristic of the domaine. Mineral notes on the lengthy finish, understated and quite tight but very assured and impressive. Puligny-Montrachet, 1er Cru ‘Les Referts’ 6 bts £345 The use of oak is more apparent on the nose here and is nicely offset by the density of fruit. The mouthfeel is so pure and smooth despite the power. Long finish, slightly saline- superb! Bâtard-Montrachet, Grand Cru 3 bts £650 Impressively dense, with a honeyed character. Whilst the fruit is ripe and forward it is not overdone and there is pear and a floral character amongst the complexity. Textured on the palate and tremendously long on the finish.

RED Maranges, 1er Cru La Fussière Rouge 6 bts £110 Red cherries and berries, ripe and vibrant without sweetness, finishing dry and peppery. Sappy and moreish but with structure. Will work well with lamb and charcuterie. One year in 228 litre oak barrels.

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CÔTE CHALONNAISE

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CHÂTEAU DE CHAMILLY, CHAMILLY Château de Chamilly were previous suppliers of Davy’s Red Burgundy (going back some 20 years). The Domaine is now run by sons Arnaut and Xavier and they, as is the case in so many places, are bringing new investment, new philosophies and new energy to the vineyards and winemaking. It is a beautiful property situated off the beaten track amongst rolling countryside split with both vines and other forms of farming. Vineyard holdings are split evenly between whites and reds and are farmed following organic principles, although the domaine have not pursued certification.

Arnaut and the partially renovated Château de Chamilly

WHITE Bouzeron, les ‘Bouchines’ 6 bts £69 A new star in our offer, aromas of crisp apples, clementine and pithy citrus peel – wonderful texture and energy here with a pleasing saline and mineral finish. An Aligoté to rival the best. Saint Aubin, 1er Cru Derriere Chez Edouard 6 bts £169 From 30-year-old vines in a fine 1er Cru site overlooking the village. Aged in oak barrel (20% new), this is a fine example of why St. Aubin whites are gaining in repute. Ripe citrus notes, with a textural depth. Long finish and very complete and together, even at this early stage. RED Mercurey ‘La Clos La Perrière’ 6 bts £90 Intensely vibrant with red cherries, a touch of spice and a lovely purity. Fresh, rounded and exceptionally moreish! From a monopole vineyard in the heart of the village. Mercurey, 1er Cru ‘Les Puillets’ 6 bts £110 The 1er Cru Les Puillets is known for its mineral and floral notes. Aged for 12 months in oak and another 6 months in stainless steel before bottling. Soft and delicate with red fruit aromas and earthy notes. Very round with smooth tannins. No fining or filtration took place.

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We’ll be delighted to take your requests and will do our best to secure orders for you. Buying on release is often the only time to secure the most sought-after wines of the Côte d’Or.

Barrels at Domaine Drouhin-Laroze

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