Sardinia Naturetrek Tour Report 22 - 29 April 2018 Audouin's Gull by Mike Baker Corsican Wall Brown by Mike Baker Mirror Orchids by Mike Baker Tyrrhenian Wall Lizard by Nicola Scatassi Report compiled by Jessica Turner Images courtesy of Mike Baker & Nicola Scatassi Naturetrek Mingledown Barn Wolf's Lane Chawton Alton Hampshire GU34 3HJ UK T: +44 (0)1962 733051 E: [email protected] W: www.naturetrek.co.uk Tour Report Sardinia Tour participants: Jessica Turner and Nicola Scatassi (leaders) with 15 Naturetrek clients Summary This year’s first week in Sardinia was blessed with beautiful weather and a mirror-calm sea for our boat trip, where we had excellent views of Scopoli’s and Yelkouan Shearwaters, Audouin’s Gull, and a pod of Bottlenose Dolphins diving round the boat. Bee-eaters and Flamingoes were always a joy, and we had some good views of Marmora’s Warbler and Stone-curlew, amongst other species. It was a very good year for orchids, with prolific flowering including the endemics (or near-endemics) Dactylorhiza insularis, Long-spurred Orchid, Orchis mascula subsp. ichnusae, and Ophrys fuciflora subsp. chestermanii. Unusually, we had several sightings of the normally secretive endemic lizard Pygmy Algyroides. Corsican Wall Brown, Corsican Heath and Corsican Dappled White were amongst the butterflies. All of this was set against the backdrop of stunning scenery, amazingly turquoise seas, excellent hospitality and great company – all together a very enjoyable week. Day 1 Sunday 22nd April Stansted – Cagliari; Stagno S’Ena Arrubia; Dorgali Fifteen group members met Jessica at Stansted Airport for our 6.10am Easyjet flight to Cagliari. We took off promptly and made good time, being able to see the snow-covered Alps as we flew south. At Cagliari, we met up with Nicola, who had flown in from Milan. After buying a snack lunch and sorting the vehicles, we were soon heading north-west across the island. After the town of Sant’ Anna, we turned down a very narrow road that headed past some lakes and reedbeds towards the sea. We had good views of Marsh Harrier and Common Kestrel and could hear the explosive call of Cetti’s Warbler. A group of orchids on the verge brought a stop, and we found some beautiful Pink Butterfly Orchids (Anacamptis papilionacea) and lots of Tongue Orchids: Small-flowered (Serapias parviflora), the ‘ordinary’ Tongue Orchid (S. lingua) and some which may have been hybrids. A large flock of Bee-eaters were over a nearby field and perching on the fence. At least three, possibly four Weasels, a larger race than in the UK, were seen running across and then down the road, leaping and jumping. Cattle and Little Egrets were by the water, and a Sparrowhawk (subsp. wolterstorffi) was overhead. The fields were bright with golden-yellow Crown Daisies (Glebionis coronarium) and Common Poppies (Papaver rhoeas). The road ended at Stagno S’Ena Arrubia, where we had another stop. We immediately noticed the Flamingoes, and other species included Red-crested Pochard and Common Tern. Spanish Sparrows (or Spanish-Italian hybrids) were around a house, and Swallows were swooping under the bridge. Swallowtail and Clouded Yellow were among the early butterflies. We were able to look more closely at the Crown Daisies, along with the magnificent Milk Thistles (Silybum marianum). Smaller plants included Small-flowered Catchfly (Silene gallica) and Purple Viper’s-bugloss (Echium plantagineum). We slowly drove on down the track towards the sea, adding Black-winged Stilt and Slender-billed Gull, amongst other species. At the shore, we had our picnic, before some further exploration. A Stone-curlew flew over and a single Audouin’s Gull was seen. Sea Mayweed (Anthemis maritima) was abundant, with purple splashes of Sea Stock (Matthiola sinuata), Three-horned Stock (Matthiola tricuspidata) and Sea Rocket (Cakile maritima). We also found plenty of the endemic subspecies of Mediterranean Bird’s-foot Trefoil (Lotus cytisoides subsp. conradiae), © Naturetrek June 18 1 Sardinia Tour Report carpets of the pink Catchfly Silene colorata, plus the tiny, silvery Paronychia argentea, and Cyperus capitatus. A large patch of Hottentot Fig (Carpobrotus edulis) was popular with insects. Many Bath White butterflies were on the wing, after a recent emergence, as were the Maghreb Burnet Moth Zygaena orana, a species only found on the west coast of Sardinia and in North Africa. We noted, too, the masses of ‘balls’ or egagropili, formed from the leaf-bases of Neptune-grass (Posidonia oceanica). It was time to move on towards Dorgali, so we retraced our steps and re-joined the main road as it turned north- east. We stopped for refreshments at a service station, and later for another leg-stretch not far from the town. We recorded Corn Bunting, Common Buzzard, Common Blue and Painted Lady butterflies, Violet Carpenter Bee, and Tyrrhenian Wall Lizard. Plants included Narrow-leaved Cistus (Cistus monspeliensis), Lentisk (Pistacia lentiscus), Rosy Garlic (Allium roseum), the small-leaved Curry Plant (Helichrysum italicum subsp. microphyllum) and Phagnalon saxatile. Soon after, we reached the Hotel Il Querceto, on the edge of Dorgali, and our base for the next four nights. We received a warm welcome and soon settled in, meeting later on the terrace for a discussion about the week. We then enjoyed a delicious dinner before retiring for some much-needed sleep. Day 2 Monday 23rd April Serra Orrios; Grotta di Ispinigoli; Cala di Osalla; Cala Gonone We woke to beautifully fine and sunny morning. Although bird life was rather quiet, those out early this morning had good views of Spanish Sparrow and saw four Turtle Doves, amongst other species. Our first visit this morning was to the Nuragic village of Serra Orrios, an extensive settlement which is well preserved. We walked along the path that leads to the remains, noting a Tongue Orchid (Serapias lingua) by the gate. The vegetation was much lusher than the previous year, with Corn Marigold (Glebionis segetum), Hairy Garlic (Allium subhirsutum) and the tiny, purple Jersey Toadflax (Linaria pelisseriana) amongst the many flowers. Many Tyrrhenian Wall Lizards were seen, and we could note their spotted throats which distinguish them from Italian Wall Lizards. A Cirl Bunting was in a tree by the site gate, and Sardinian Warblers were singing, with one giving good views. Two Ravens flew over calling, and later some were seen thermalling, along with a Marsh Harrier and Alpine Swift. We wandered around the site, noting the remains of the Bronze-Age dwellings and temples. Near the area which was a water cistern, we found some fine spikes of Sawfly Orchid (Ophrys tenthredinifera), plus Celery-leaved Buttercup (Ranunculus sceleratus) where the ground had been wet. Butterflies included Swallowtail, Corsican Dappled White, Small Copper, Corsican Wall Brown and the southern form of Speckled Wood. A Moorish Gecko was seen at the café, well-camouflaged against the stone wall. Having explored this fascinating site, we moved on to the road to the Grotta di Ispingioli, where we found some beautiful Mirror Orchids (Ophrys speculum), a very fresh spike of Bee Orchid (Ophrys apifera), a finished spike of Giant Orchid (Himantoglossum robertianum) and a spike of Sombre Bee Orchid (Ophrys fusca). All three species of Cistus were starting to flower: the pink Cistus creticus, Narrow-leaved Cistus (C. monspeliensis) with small white flowers, and Sage-leaved Cistus (C. salvifolius), which has larger white flowers. A Pygmy Algyroides was seen here. As we drove on to Cala di Osalla, we had good views of Woodchat Shrike and heard Woodlark. 2 © Naturetrek June 18 Sardinia Tour Report Arriving at the little beach, there was a chance to explore and paddle while the picnic was being prepared. After enjoying the delicious selection of local cheeses, hams, salad and wines, we took time to meander further, seeing Little Egret and Sand Martins over the estuary, and large numbers of Scopoli’s Shearwaters out to sea. Yellow Horned Poppy (Glaucium flavum) was in flower, and other plants included Sea Stock (Matthiola sinuata) and Sea- holly (Eryngium maritimum). Brown Tiger Beetles were scurrying in the sand, an endemic species, and a beautiful Swallowtail which posed for us was almost certainly Corsican. Eventually we left to take the winding mountain road which leads over the top to Cala Gonone. We stopped by a little pond, but bee-keepers had been working nearby and there were rather too many bees about for comfort, so we quickly moved on. As the road started to climb, we stopped again for several spikes of orchids, growing in partial shade. Research indicated that they were what is sometimes recognised as Ophrys panattensis, “now only reliably found in the mountains near Dorgali”; however, later DNA work indicates that this ‘species’ is more accurately a hybrid between Early and Late Spider Orchids, so given the name Ophrys x arachnitiformis. The views from the road are stunning, out over the sea. When we reached the little port of Cala Gonone, we stopped to sample a variety of flavours of ice cream, before returning to the hotel. We met again on the terrace before another delicious meal, after an excellent day in the field. Day 3 Tuesday 24th April Cala Gonone – Cala Sisine; Nuraghe Mannu We woke to another fine day. Some of the group were out early, having good views of Turtle Dove and Cirl Bunting, as well as Lesser Whitethroat and Tree Pipit. It was a beautifully calm morning, and we were booked on a 10am departure for our boat trip from the little port of Cala Gonone. After a good breakfast, we drove to the harbour and Jessica bought the tickets for the ‘Margherita’. We were soon travelling south along the cliffs, admiring the clear blue waters.