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Annu Al Rep Ort of Artez Masters in F Ashion 2015-2016

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Annu Al Rep Ort of Artez Masters in F Ashion 2015-2016 At ArtEZ Fashion Masters we aim to interrogate the current fashion system and seek out the boundaries of prevailing fashion discourses through research and design. With this annual report, we give an overview of the various ways in which we have sought out to do so in this past academic year. Through research projects, workshops, exchanges and an extensive list of guest lecturers from ArtEZ Fashion Masters annual reportArtEZ Masters annual Fashion the fashion, art and design world we prepare our Design and Strategy students to become Masters in Fashion. ArtEZ Fashion Masters Kortestraat 27 6811 EP Arnhem, The Netherlands 0031 (0)26 35 30 910 [email protected] www.artez.nl/fashionmasters www.facebook.com/ArtEZFashionMasters www.instagram.com/artez.fashion.masters Annual report of ArtEZ Masters in Fashion 2015-2016 Fashion in Masters ArtEZ of report Annual Annual report of ArtEZ Masters in Fashion 2015-2016 Fashion in Masters ArtEZ of report Annual MASTERS Stop Motion, Radical Compassion Public Presentations 94 an introduction Klara Valkova 46 Mark van Vorstenbos About ArtEZ and Hanka van der Voet 02 Cite Fashion Masters 95 A hint toward The 100-Year plan emotional durability Alumni ArtEZ for a sustainable model Esmee Peterse, mfs 50 Fashion Masters 97 of growth in the fashion industry Scape Lecturers, Manon Randin, Janneke van Rooijen, mfs 54 guest lecturers and Mor Schwartz, team 2015-2016 99 Maximilian Schmidt, Jake of all trades Larissa Rosvaenge, Asu Aksu 58 Colophon 100 Harriet Mbonjani and Anna Jacobs 06 Joie de Vivre Hee Kim, mfd 66 Woolmark × ArtEZ Fashion Masters 16 TextielLab Lotte van Dijk 72 Atelier Néerlandais Anna Jacobs 24 Glocality in the Scandinavian Textile Innovation Lab creative industry Anna Brinkmann, mfs 28 Tessa Kreunen, mfs 76 Unknown Ordinary Stories of Near Mai Deonpen Zinzi de Brouwer, mfs 82 Chuaicharoensuk, mfs 32 Paris: Crafting Wearables IV an excursion Klaudia Stavreva 36 Martine Bovee 86 Grand illusions Movement of a great escape Memories IN Sunna Örlygsdóttir, mfd 40 Lisa Foerster, mfd 88 FASHION Table of Contents 5 4 STOP HANKA VAN MARK DER VAN VOET VORSTENBOS MOTION ArtEZ Masters in Fashion Stop Motion, an introduction 7 6 You are now holding in your hands the annual report of the ArtEZ At the ma Fashion Strategy we said goodbye to our Head of the Fashion Masters 2015-2016. This is a recurring project that we initiate course José Teunissen, who was Professor in Fashion Theory as well every year, to show you life inside and outside of the ArtEZ Fashion at ArtEZ. She left us in January 2016 to be Dean of the School of Masters. With this report we would like to shed some light on what Design and Technology of the London College of Fashion. Students of challenges occupied us this past academic year – as an educational both Strategy and Design were still able to enjoy the fruits of her labor: institution and as professionals in the fashion and design world. in collaboration with the Centre of Expertise FutureMakers – initiated And challenges there were. by José – the workshop Closing the Loop took place. Under guidance These are restless times. Our world feels unstable with major of Judith ter Haar students worked together with textile recycling changes simultaneously on many different levels; sociological, political, company Texperium to challenge the practicalities of becoming economical and environmental. As designers and strategists, we have a sustainable business within the fashion industry. Inspired by this a natural talent to think in possibilities, to try out new ideas and to workshop several students wrote a paper, which led them to be invited come up with solutions for questions that we encounter in our everyday by the Fashion Colloquia São Paulo, in Brazil to present their research. lives and professional practices. But today’s challenges sometimes Another highlight was our yearly trip to Paris. The students visited, appear so existentially overwhelming that we no longer know where among others, the Trend Union studio of Lidewij Edelkoort, Anja to start, and how our ideas can make an actual change. The students Cronberg of Vestoj magazine, Pamela Golbin of Les Arts Décoratifs, of the ma Fashion Strategy and ma Fashion Design however, face and bless founder Desiree Heiss. these changes and challenges head on, taking the bull by the horns. With the number of ma Fashion Strategy applicants steadily growing, This generation sees no problems, only possibilities and takes on these people are slowly but surely becoming aware how crucial the role Voet der van and Hanka Vorstenbos Mark van possibilities in a collaborative effort. of fashion strategists is and will be in dealing with a broken fashion At the ma Fashion Design, there was a focus on valorization through system. This issue is central to the graduation projects of the second mastering craftsmanship, dedication, individual movement, and year Fashion Strategy students. By offering new ways of looking personal space. Since 2014, the new curriculum uses the entire period at the essence of what drives the fashion industry forward, they are of our two-year ma course for such in-depth introspection. Every now implementing future-proof strategies that embrace longevity. These and then the program is intentionally interrupted by short workshops students find new values in products and services that meet functional, that energize and boost the workflow. This year’s workshops were social and cultural needs. They are metapreneurs stimulating change focused on various concepts of crafts. Pascale Gatzen’s cooperative for the better and aim on bringing fashion conformity to the vantage crafting was questioning the role of the designer by reversing point of a new era. Working outside of the conventional rules, their the traditional creative process: what happens if you invite the guards projects motivate positive impact and deeper meaning to the future in a museum to design their own uniform and ask designers to assist of fashion. Read all about their projects, and those of the design them? Crafting Wearables iv was a workshop in collaboration with students in this annual report. professor Oscar Tomico from tu/e, and Eurecat in an experimental With great pride we present to you tomorrow’s Masters in Fashion! laboratory near Barcelona exploring new industrial applications for smart textiles. The Dutch Crafts Council offered students workshops with experts in almost forgotten techniques, re-interpreting them to make them fully future-proof. Finally our collaboration with the Textiellab at the Audax Textiel- Mark van Vorstenbos museum in Tilburg provided students with the opportunity to translate Head of ma Fashion Design their material experiments using innovative and truly refined workmanship for beautifully made precious products, ready to be Hanka van der Voet Introduction cherished. (Interim) Head of ma Fashion Strategy ArtEZ Masters in Fashion Stop Motion 9 ‘Building a brand today is a little like building a cathedral during the Renaissance. It took hundreds of craftsmen scores of years, even generations, to complete a major edifice. Each craftsman added his own piece to the project – a carving, a window, a fresco, a dome – always keeping an eye on the total effect. Like yesterday’s cathedral, many of today’s brands are too large and too complex to be managed M. Randin, Schwartz, M. Schmidt, L. H. Mbonjani and A. Rosvaenge, Jacobs by one person or one department. They require teams of specialists, THE sharing ideas and coordinating the efforts across a creative network.’ 1 Closing the Loop potential technology can offer. We asked ourselves the following Starting September 2015, questions: To which extent can the ArtEZ Future Makers true sustainability be pursued in Center of expertise 2 organized the fashion industry? What kind of a sustainability-focused project. social legacy do companies want Under the title Closing the Loop to leave behind? How to predict 100 � YEAR and with the collaboration of the fashion panorama of the the ma Fashion Strategy and ma future? How to make sustainability Fashion Design, it challenged us the new profit making solution? students with the practicalities of How to develop a 20/50/100-year becoming a sustainable business business plan for the 2016 fashion within the fashion industry. industry? And how to operate The contradictory nature of the small changes simultaneously daily operations and business in big or small companies, while model opposed the sustainable maintaining them profitable both ethics the company wished in short and long term? to project. The challenge was to create a strategy that could A system called fashion be implemented immediately, and not only being sustainable The present fashion system is but practical too. driven by an ever-growing supply We decided to question the and demand of new products. actual image, production and Fashion companies are required manufacturing of so-called to produce faster and cheaper in sustainable products as well order to survive on the market. This as the future problems they will fact, combined with consumers generate. And to do so, we used constant hunger for novelty behavioral economic theories and the lack of communication and “cathedral” strategic thinking between retailers and designers Research Projects ArtEZ Masters 2015-2016 Fashion Projects Research PLAN as a basis, and thought about the is resulting in a worrying Clothing waste at the recycling company Texperium ArtEZ Masters in Fashion Annual report 2015-2016 11 overproduction, causing pollution of each other, luxury brands have THE EVERLANE TRENCH 10 and a depletion of resources. lost their identity. Advertising Transparent Pricing As asserted by Susie Lau, for fast fashion and luxury We believe customers have the right to know what their products cost to make: founder of fashion blog Style brands looks alike too: they all Bubble: ‘This general assumption commission the same models, Materials ...................
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