IRISH WHISKEY: THE IRISH RESURGENCE IS MORE THAN LOOKING MORE AND MORE LIKE A SUSTAINABLE TREND JUST LUCK BY JEFF CIOLETTI

rish whiskey continues to be the big international growth Dining Saloon, says that the market for story in the spirits space, with another year of double- higher-end Irish whiskey has always been digit gains for the U.S. market. And it’s become a force to there, it was just a matter of making it be reckoned with, as the base it’s been growing from isn’t available to the consumers who were nearly as small as it used to be. ready for it—beyond travelers to Ireland I bringing back bottles with them. “The problem was accessibility,” says Thomas. According to Bord Bia, the Irish food American Prohibition helped hasten its “We’re finally getting it imported and into board, revenue from Irish whiskey exports fall from prominence—to be usurped, pri- broader markets in the U.S.” to the U.S. market surged 16%, slightly marily, by Scotch. Thomas points to major market events outpacing the 14% jump in exports to Eu- “It’s a really exciting time for Irish like Beam’s purchase of Cooley Distillery ropean Union countries outside of Ireland. whiskey as there’s been a category-wide from founder John Teeling in 2012 as sig- The Distilled Spirits Council reported commitment to superior taste and qual- nificant factors in Irish whiskey’s expan- 11.3% volume growth for the category in ity that has brought on its current boom,” sion. Cooley producers of such brands as 2017, now totaling over 4 million cases in says Paige Parness, Senior Brand Manager The Tyrconnell, Kilbeggan, Greenore and the U.S. for Tullamore D.E.W., owned by Wil- Connemara. “Even prior to that, Cooley It seems that Irish is finally reclaiming liam Grant & Sons. “I think the reason it was introducing some great stuff into the its place on the world stage. It had been resonates with consumers so much is that market in dribs and drabs,” Thomas notes. considered, for most of the 19th century there’s a camaraderie element to how it’s “And we’ve had some independent bot- and the early 20th century, a spirit of pres- consumed—in groups, with good friends tlers who were instrumental in bringing tige before World Wars, trade wars and in bars and social settings—that adds to some stuff in.” its appeal. Pernod Ricard deserves a lot of the credit as well. Not only did the company CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Jameson, the industry DEMAND, MEET SUPPLY… expand the global market presence for the leader in volume and recognition, is also at the Until recently, most U.S. consumers had No. 1 Irish whiskey brand, Jameson, but it forefront of innovation. / Teeling opened in 2015 easy access only to high-volume Irish as the first new distillery in Dublin in over 125 years. / Lambay is among a wave of new labels reaching blends like Jameson and Bushmills— U.S. shelves. / Knappogue Castle specializes in which have certainly represented the age statement single malts, while also producing the genre well—but the category’s resurgence value-priced Clontarf. / Barrels resting at Bushmills. has created an opportunity for above-pre- / Jameson Black Barrel, featuring extra char, is one of the permanent extensions to the popular line. / mium styles like single pot still, single cask, Bushmills, in County Antrim, is the oldest distillery single grain and, yes, even single malt. on the island of Ireland, but the stills are thoroughly Bill Thomas, owner of Washington, modernized. / RIGHT: Tullamore stills DC’s iconic whiskey mecca, Jack Rose also whet Americans’ appetites for single pot still brands like Redbreast, Green EMERALD ISLE APPEAL ABOVE LEFT: Louise McGuane is a leader in the revival of whiskey bonding in Ireland, which practically Spot and Yellow Spot. Pernod’s Irish pro- disappeared in the 1930s; under the J.J. Corry label, gram has become a petri dish for experi- The steadily growing selection of Irish she blends and matures whiskies from multiple mentation, empowering them to continue whiskey in America is, not surprisingly, sources. / Knappogue Castle 12 Year Old / releasing connoisseur-level bottlings for often seen tapping into fondness for Irish Brothers Jack and Stephen Teeling. / Caskmates culture and the Emerald Isle itself. is Jameson’s crossover project using beer-seasoned years to come. barrels. / Bushmills barrels. TOURISTS’ EYES ARE SMILING Walsh family distillery’s The Irishman declares its heritage Heightened demand also lit the fuse for The IWA’s “Irish Whiskey Tourism proudly. The distillery’s other an Irish distilling boom of sorts. A de- Strategy,” which it launched a little over whiskey, Writers’ Tears, a year ago, seems to be bearing fruit. The cade ago there were only three working honoring 19th century Irish organization reports that visits to Irish distilleries left in Ireland. Now there are writers and playwrights, is distilleries increased 11 percent in 2017, 18 operating across the country, according a unique vatting of 60% pot to the Irish Whiskey Association (IWA), still and 40% single malt with 814,000 people touring the coun- with at least 16 more in planning. whiskies. try’s production facilities. IWA’s goal is to Among the new facilities to open re- make Ireland a world leader in whiskey cently was Dublin’s Teeling Whiskey Dis- Winebow imports Dublin-based tourism by 2030. tillery—run by John Teeling’s sons Jack Kinahan’s, the first whiskey ever to be and Stephen—the first new distillery in trademarked. BOTTLES TO WATCH the Irish capital city in more than 125 Here are a few highlights of Irish brands years. The Teeling family’s whiskey roots Claddagh Irish Whiskey honors and producers, both new and established, go back to 1782. its namesake traditional Irish ring that are making waves in the U.S. whis- “Things are so different than when my design. key market. father started [Cooley] in the ’80s,” says The brands West Cork Distillers Stephen Teeling. “There’s now this young WALSH WHISKEY and Donegal Estates both evoke generation of progressively minded people Bernard and Rosemary Walsh launched beloved counties in Ireland. seeking new taste profiles. The new gener- their company in 1999, initially to blend ation of whiskey drinker tends to be very The Pogues, an Irish rock band and bottle their Irish coffee recipe, which knowledgeable, very education focused.” with strong America fan base, became the Hot Irishman. Eight years lat- have a whiskey of their own, er, they launched The Irishman 70 (mar- imported by M.S. Walker. keted as The Irishman Original Clan in the U.S.) and The Irishman-Single Malt. But wait, there’s more. No Irish liquor The former is a blend of both single malt collection is complete without some Irish and single pot still Irish whiskey and the Creams and the Irish specialty called rare blend of whiskies made completely in “poitin.” Traditionally, poitin (pronounced pot stills. Walsh has since launched The “po-CHEEN”) was made from malted bar- Irishman-Cask Strength, as well as a 12 ley, sugar beets and potato. Brands in the Year Old Expression. In 2009, it unveiled U.S. include Glendalough, Mad March Writers’ Tears Copper Pot, distilled from Hare and Irish Glory. 60% pot still and 60% single malt whis- kies, aged in American oak bourbon casks. Writers’ Tears is a gold medal winner at the International Spirits Challenge in London.

PERNOD RICARD / IRISH DISTILLERS In addition to making single pot still whiskeys like Redbreast, Greenspot and Yellow Spot household names among American drinkers, Pernod Ricard’s Irish Distillers unit has been having quite a bit of fun with its most Jameson continues to prove that the brand is famous trademark: Jameson. The way more than a shot; The Blenders Dog is company recently introduced the lat- designed to be served with no ice and just a est addition to its craft beer-themed few drops of water. “Give it a swirl and allow to sit for 2 or 3 minutes,” advises Head Blender Caskmates line. Jameson Caskmates Billy Leighton. IPA Edition is finished in barrels that previously held an India pale ale pro- duced by an Irish craft brewer, giving Caribbean rum casks. “Not only is the the whiskey some hoppy nuances. spirit a delicious new direction for the The company also launched Jame- brand, with distinct tropical fruit and son: The Blender’s Dog, the second warm spice flavors, it also tells a story in The Whiskey Makers Series. The of seventeenth-century Irish immi- Blender’s Dog, a combination of ma- grants playing a role in the early devel- ture whiskeys from the vast stocks at opment of rum in the Caribbean,” says Jameson’s New Midleton Distillery Paige Parness, Senior Brand Manager. celebrates the role of Head Blend- “With it, we’re hoping to continue our er Billy Leighton. story of championing great blends in distilling and world in which we live.” WILLIAM GRANT & SONS / TULLAMORE D.E.W. Tullamore D.E.W. has been experimenting quite a bit with its cask finishes. Last fall it launched its seasonal Cider Cask, which the brand says is the first whiskey to be finished in hard cider barrels. This spring, the distill- ery will introduce Tullamore D.E.W. XO Rum Cask Finish, its Original Triple Blend, finished in first-fill XO The beverage alcohol market analysts at IWSR expect Irish whiskey consumed in the U.S. to rise from 4.1 MILLION CASES in 2017 to 4.5 MILLION in 2018 and top 5 MILLION in 2019.

TEELING WHISKEY CO. malts aged in Sherry casks and then fin- Teeling’s Trinity range taps a variety of ished in barrels with a particular char; STILL MORE… barrels from around the world. The first peat and bog oak char came first, Glen- • The Sexton Single Malt, from the of those is Teeling Small Batch, a blend garriff Cherry Charred Cask and Glengar- Emerald Isle’s North Coast, of malt and grain whiskeys, aged for riff Apple Charred Cask arrive this spring. is made from 100% Irish approximately six years and married in malted barley, triple dis- Central and South American rum casks. SLANE tilled and aged for four Teeling Single Grain is made from corn Slane’s name is familiar to rock ’n years in Oloroso Sherry and fully aged in California Cabernet roll fans, thanks to the world- butts. This young single malt is crafted barrels. Teeling Single Malt is finished famous Slane Castle Concert se- by Alex Thomas, one of Ireland’s few in five distinct wine casks, giving the ries, founded in 1981. Slane Irish female whiskey blenders. whiskey some striking fruit notes. Whiskey was created by Brown- • Sean Muldoon and Jack McGarry, co- Forman and the Conyngham fam- founders of the award-winning bar The J.J. CORRY ily of Slane, whose roots in the Dead Rabbit, teamed up with Master Dis- Louise McGuane is a leader in the revival Irish village date back over three tiller Darryl McNally of The Dublin of whiskey “bonding” in Ireland, which centuries. Slane’s “Triple Casked” process Liberties Distillery to create a namesake practically disappeared in the 1930s. uses virgin oak, seasoned oak and Sherry five-year-old blended Irish whiskey, Operating on her family farm in County casks to produce a more robust flavor. seasoned in bourbon casks. Launching Clare, a mile from the coast, and bring- now in NY and NJ, The Dead Rabbit ing back the J.J. Corry brand (named after KNAPPOGUE CASTLE rolls out nationally in April. a legendary nearby whiskey bonder), she With a 15th-century castle radiating tra- , created by Derry, blends and matures whiskies from multi- dition and authenticity, Knappogue Cas- • The Quiet Man Ireland-based Ciaran Mulgrew, ple sources. Her first release, “The Gael,” tle has emerged as Ireland’s leading sup- combines hand-selected is a 60% malt, 40% grain blend of whis- plier of bourbon-barreled, age-statement whiskies, finished in first-fill kies from seven to 26 years old. single malts, with expressions aged 12, bourbon barrels for sweet 14 and 16 years in good supply. Comple- and spicy notes; offered in THE TEMPLE BAR menting the Knappogue Castle malts, the two varieties, a traditional Fresh from Dublin, The Temple Bar value-priced Clontarf label recalls the Irish whiskey and an 8-year Whiskey, carries the name power historic battle of 1014. single malt, The Quiet Man is the first of Ireland’s most famous bar (180 Irish whiskey bottled in Derry in nearly years young) and also takes the LAMBAY 100 years. bonding approach. In 2005, The Lambay Irish Whiskey, a crossover project, Temple Bar owner Tom Cleary combines the Cognac-making skills of • And how about a celebrity started with his original triple- Camus with the distilling expertise of Irish whiskey? Boston-based distilled Signature Blend; 10- and 12-Year- the Baring Family’s Revelstoke Trust. M.S. Walker has reintroduced Old whiskies followed. All three are fin- Small Batch Blend is malted, un-malted John L. Sullivan Irish Whiskey, ished in bourbon casks. barley and grain whiskies, blended, triple named after the legendary distilled and matured in bourbon barrels boxer and Boston native. WEST CORK with a Cognac cask finish. A touch of “Boston has deep Irish roots, West Cork is one of the few dis- Lambay Island Trinity Well Water makes and John L. embodied a lot of tillers in Ireland to boast actual the whiskey as unique as the island it the things that make our city Irish ownership. They use ex- calls home. The Single Malt is unpeated, so great: toughness, class, and appre- clusively Irish barley as well as tripled distilled and finished in Cognac ciation for a good drink,” notes Brett fresh local spring water. Their casks that have been exposed to the sea Allen, Director of National Business Glengarriff Series features single air and maritime winds on Lambay Island. Development. ■