On The Glory Land Road
1 On The Glory Land Road
Man does not live by bread alone ... Preachin’s scarce and religion too ...
“Looking” at Religion The Early Days
Religion is the life of the spirit, the life of the A wondrous song, “Old Cumberland Land,” was mind. Religion is belief not in things, but in forces, likely composed at the very beginning of the Europe- in thoughts, in the will, and in beings not of com- an settlement of Tennessee. Preserved in the memo- mon matter. ry of the Hicks family of the Cumberland Plateau, it One cannot go for a drive to “look” at religion, tells of a harsh and lovely land: but one can see certain physical manifestations of the But when we got there, it was ice and snow, experience and through that looking may come to a It hailed, it rained, oh the wind did blow, Which caused us all for to grieve and cry, greater understanding. Saying, here with cold, oh we all must die Religion is manifest in myriad ways. The houses ... of worship, the graveyards, the roadside signs and Now I’ve not been strange, oh to write to you, Oh the preachin’s scarce and religion too, memorials may be seen and touched. Oratory, song But we’ve better land and a fertile soil, and prayer in its many forms may be heard. There is Oh we got honey, milk, we’ve corn and oil. dance. There are shrines and hoards of books. Visiting these places and seeing these incorpora- Today, protestant Christianity is the overwhelm- tions of religious life in the greater landscape can ingly predominant system of belief in Southeast give a fuller appreciation of the Tennessee. That was not always so. Many peoples, along with their cul- nature and importance of reli- Tennessee Rationalism gious life and how it develops tures and beliefs, have flourished and waned Early Tennessee “founding and grows in a place. Visiting fathers” shared a rationalist fear can give an understanding of over the millennia, of organized state religion. The how religious thought – and re- and we know almost first state constitution not only ligious conflict – shapes a place. nothing of them. This forbade “religious tests” for tour focuses on histor- office holders, but went much Religion is the underlying force driving much ical developments, but further, specifying that “no Minister of the Gospel or Priest popular expressive culture. Our popular music, food we should remember ways, dress, dance, literature are all heavily derived of any denomination whatever, that the archeologi- shall be eligible to a seat in ei- from, or a reaction to, our religion and beliefs. To cal record goes back ther House of the Legislature.” understand a people’s religion is to understand a much further. Before This prohibition stood for over people’s culture. that, we know nothing 180 years, until 1978. 2 of who first practiced religion in the area. Again, in tion and to keep their membership safe from heresy another version of “Old Cumberland Land” we hear and backsliding. of some of these earlier peoples: Many men in the back country drank, and drank We saw ten thousand human graves, heavily. One commentator in southwest North All walled in with the mason sign, Carolina noted that a man who limited himself to a Which made me think, in the days of old, Some human race had passed this place. quart a day was considered “moderate.” Young men liked to entertain themselves with gunplay and other Our earliest detailed understanding is of the reli- aggressive behavior; fighting at dances and other gion of the Cherokee. They were no strangers to the social events was fairly common. Evidence of efforts “Cumberland Land” composer, having been a factor to control this sort of behavior appears as admonish- in English foreign policy for generations, but they ments to wayward members in the “business meet- did not long prosper in the face of the new migra- ing” of the churches. Typically a delegation of the tion. brethren would be formed to visit the miscreant, counsel him, and return with a report. If the back- Catholic explorers from Spain and traders from slider didn’t repent, he or she would likely be caste France had early visited the area, and the first Catho- from the flock. Folks were “churched” for drinking lic Mass may have been celebrated here in 1540, too much and too often, hosting too many dance but these folks tended not to stay long. By the 18th parties, fighting, and less often for unsanctioned Century, the Church of England arrived carrying personal relationships. the arms of their sovereign. But the big change, the great migration that was to define the Southeast The churches seemed to thrive on this sort of Tennessee of today, began in earnest about 1800 and business, defining their boundaries. A more seri- was a settlement migration of Protestant Christians. ous problem facing the back country churches was By the 1830’s, led by that Scotch-Irish Presbyterian heresy. It seems about once a generation congrega- archtype Andrew Jackson, they drove the Cherokees tions would divide over a point of faith, procedure, from the land and overwhelmed everyone else. By or style. These regular divisions would drive a wedge then “everyone else” was a sprinkling of Catholics between neighbors and friends, creating discord and a few “Israelites” -- all lost in a sea of Presbyteri- while keeping belief vibrant. ans, Baptists and Methodists. Dissent, though, was From time to time great waves of religious fervor, emerging. beginning in Tennessee with The Great Revival of 1800-1805, would sweep the frontier bringing new ways of seeing, new ways of understanding, and sometimes leaving divided communities and an ever Go forth and multiply ... increasing number of “denominations.” Secular upheavals, too, would result in the gen- Development and Division eration of new churches. The Civil War resulted Early back country settlers’ church records have in splits between pro- and anti-slavery factions of survived and tell a story of constant struggle both to certain Southern groups. The Temperance Move- control the boisterous and alcohol-endowed popula- ment and closely linked women’s suffrage movement, 3 though less divisive, also brought changes. Eman- to rapidly gain converts after the Pentecostal revival cipation and the Civil Rights struggles brought the of 1896, eventually establishing general offices in emergence of politically powerful African-American Cleveland, Tennessee in 1908. churches. The period from 1890 to 1925 saw a series of One of the most spectacular events in the conten- divisions in major Tennessee denominations. About tious history of religion in Southeast Tennessee de- 1900 the Church of Christ split with the Disciples of veloped as a rather extraordinary conspiracy involv- Christ nominally over use of musical instruments in ing emerging 20th Century civic boosterism and the worship. In 1906 many urban Cumberland Pres- teaching of evolutionary theory. The “monkey trial” byterian congregations split and rejoined the main in Dayton started out as a scheme to get tourists into Presbyterian Church. Baptists, having already gone town, but developed into the defining moment of a through a number of divisions, divided further with grand, national debate that still continues. the American Baptists splitting from the Southern Baptists in 1905. The Holiness Movement resulted Denominations in splits among Methodists and the foundation of the Church of the Nazarene. And the recently Presbyterians, Baptists and Methodists arrived formed Church of God suffered a split with the for- in Tennessee at settlement and all were established mation of the Church of God of Prophecy in 1923. in the greater region in the 18th Century. Two other major groups soon formed. The Cumberland Over the last 150 years there has also been a Presbyterian Church was established in 1810 in steady and diverse stream of immigrants moving into Tennessee after a break with the Presbyterian Synod Southeast Tennessee and bringing their beliefs with in Kentucky. The Church of Christ developed out them. Chattanooga has seen the development of of the Restorationist Movement of 1809 and estab- Hindu and Muslim communities, and many other lished itself most successfully in Tennessee. These groups, including followers of Santeria and Rastafar- five denominations accounted for the majority of ians, are moving to the area. Most recently the area believers in Tennessee before the Civil War. has seen a major surge in Catholic Hispanic popula- tions from Mexico. Some of the other major groups moving into in Tennessee after settlement are as follows. Jew- The continuing traditions of dividing and reform- ish settlers, mainly from German speaking areas of ing can been seen as both destructive and enlighten- Central Europe, were in Tennessee by the 1830’s. ing. In any case they thrive today and indicate an The Episcopalian Church formed the Diocese of ever expanding theological landscape. Tennessee in 1834. The Catholic Church formed its Diocese of Tennessee three years later in 1837. The African Methodist Episcopal Zion Church, formed Raise a joyful noise unto the Lord ... in the late 18th Century in New York, began to grow in Tennessee during the Civil War and organized a Tennessee Conference in 1863. The Church of God Singing has its origins in Southeast Tennessee in a meeting Throughout history and across cultures religion of Baptist dissenters held in 1886. The group began inspires great art. Southeast Tennessee is no excep- 4 tion where religious expression often takes the form Harp of Columbia, Cleavant Derricks of song. first published in Chattanooga native Cleavant Madisonville, Tennes- Derricks (1910-1970) wrote see in 1848. There is over 300 songs including Just a a singing every couple Little Talk with Jesus and served of weeks somewhere as pastor and choir director of several African American Baptist in the region and Some of the most conservative groups insist that churches. He was inducted into the voice and the voice alone is appropriate for sa- beginners are wel- the Gospel Music Hall of Fame cred singing. Congregational acapella singing is gen- come. Singings are in 2001. erally the practice among Church of Christ, Primi- often accompanied by tive Baptist and Conservative and Orthodox Jewish dinners. congregations. The Primitive Baptists also practice a Other forms of sacred music abound. African- form called “lining out” in which a song leader calls American congregations support mass choirs as well out the words before each verse. Everyone is expect- as quartets. Tennessee, especially at Fisk in Nashville, ed to participate and the singing itself is considered played a major role in developing African-American worship. Some groups may set aside Choir performance after the a day a month, often a Wednesday Civil War. These develop- night, for song practice. The major- ments were in addition to ity of the congregation will not have the traditional singing of formal training and hymnals will be ministers and congregations mainly used as a prop, since every- who became hugely popular body knows the songs by heart. in the early recording era. Shape-note singing, a nonde- In the 1930’s reformed nominational acapella style, evolved blues performer Thomas A. from early singing schools. The Dorsey, employed the tech- name derives from the use of shapes niques of jazz and blues, on the page to indicate the notes. to lift gospel music to new Before the words are sung, the fame. Inspired by Dorsey’s group will sing the notes using the success, gospel quartets familiar “do, re, mi ...” names, and formed in the 1930’s de- the form is often called “fa-sol-la veloped a style of harmony singing.” “Old Harp,” using seven singing popular among symbols for their seven notes, be- both black and white audi- came popular in East Tennessee and ences. Today, mass choirs is more common here than “Sacred and quartets can be found Harp,” which uses only four shapes. based at churches in Chat- The newcomers to the tradition may be confused tanooga and in the several rural African-American communities in the region. Quartets, small ensem- even further by the title of the Old Harp song book, The New Harp of Columbia, a revised edition of The bles with any number of musicians, are also found 5 acting independent of congregations. the string bands that A Cross of Gold played for those sin- White Gospel, generally falling under the term William Jennings Bryan (1860- “southern gospel” can also be found throughout the ful dances. Its most 1925) was widely known as the region in a variety of forms. Early country music noted characteristic greatest orator of his day. One of his triumphs was the “Cross performers like the Carter Family had a repertory is the “high lonesome sound” of brother of Gold” speech at the 1896 heavy in church music. Today southern gospel Democratic Convention. “You duet harmonies, groups, heavily indebted to country, bluegrass and shall not press down upon the blues, can be found in most towns in the region. ultimately derived brow of labor this crown of Much diversity, too, exists in congregational per- from church harmony. thorns; you shall not crucify mankind upon a cross of gold.” formance, ranging from sedate harmony to forms Bluegrass bands usu- ally also have a stock He recorded the speech in indebted to rock and 1921, and anyone who has long of “sacred numbers” in roll. Robert Emmett Winsett listened to rural preachers will Bledsoe County Native R.E. their repertory. Forms instantly recognize his style. All this singing Winsett (1876-1952) authored of popular music, Bryan died in Dayton, five days meant a need for more than a thousand gospel from blues to rock and after the Scopes trial. Bryan hymnals and song songs; though he is better know roll, have also gone College was established in his honor. books. Even for the for founding R. E. Winsett Song full circle and been in- vast majority who Book Publishing Company about 1903. Based in Dayton it corporated back into could not read music, was a major force in shape note worship service of many churches. holding a book with publishing during the first half Both preaching and singing are widely and eas- the words printed of the 20th Century. in it is a nice prop. ily available to all through the great range of radio A major music publishing industry developed in programming in Southeast Tennessee. Gospel radio Cleveland in the 1800’s and later in Dayton, in Rhea may carry church affiliated programming, including County. Though used by all, their hymnals were of- broadcasts of local services, but more often operates ten published with shape-notes. Cleveland remains a independently providing a base for radio ministries. publishing center through the work of the Church of Tuning in to local AM and FM stations while visit- God affiliated Pathway Publishing. ing the area will give a sense of the wide variety of styles in the region. Oratory
Preaching cannot be overlooked in a discussion of religious art forms. Many of America’s greatest ora- Get right with God ... tors either were preachers or studied preaching. The styles and techniques of the pulpit transfer easily to Religion on the Roadside the political stage; thus we have religious symbolisms infusing political discourse. As you drive this area you will see an often striking dialog carried on through religious signs. These sacred traditions form the base for much of This dialog may fall into two categories. First is the the region’s – and the world’s – secular forms. Blue- fulfillment of the directive to spread the faith – that grass, for example, owes only part of its heritage to is to spread Christianity and convert disbelievers and 6 those who have strayed from belief. Second, and associated with local Pentecostal groups. Symbolic less obvious, is a discussion of the nature of the true gardens are used by some of these churches to docu- path to salvation, a subtle disagreement over which ment their history and illustrate biblical passages. church is the true way. Indi- The Fields of the Woods, a site near the viduals, too, often feel the call to Tennessee/North Carolina border, the exhort the wayward to join the Church of God (Jerusalem Acres), and flock. Evangelical signs will of- the Church of God International Of- ten be placed on private property fices all maintain symbolic gardens. A and religious motifs are incorpo- number of area churches also use smaller, rated into business signage. everyday objects in a similar way on their Most, if not all, groups in the roadside signs. Recent examples include a area feel an overriding obligation horse drawn plough and a ball and chain to spread the gospel, but there mounted on sign boards and illustrating are many approaches to that end. biblical passages. These signs and gardens Some churches do not feel a need are noteworthy for their use of literal to use roadside signs as a primary symbolism. media, though most do announce Churches are, of course, much more their presence and the times of service at the church than religious centers. For many they are the pri- itself. Among the more common homemade reli- mary focus for social and community life. Church gious signs are announcements of revivals and of yards often have shelters and outbuildings intended tent meetings. These meetings may be held by local for dinners on the ground and other social gather- congregations or by traveling preachers with no local ings. Roadside signs announcing church suppers, home church – often said to be conducting a “mis- fish fries, homecomings, and decoration days reflect sion.” Occasionally a temporary church meeting the importance of the religious group in daily life. may also take place in a “brush arbor,” a pole The Mayes Cross structure with a brush Coal miner and sign painter roof used before the Henry Mayes (1898-1986) I will know all the paths through the common availability conducted a “ministry of signs” old greensward ... of tents. One Cleve- from 1918 until his death, placing hundreds of concrete land based roadside crosses and other roadside Graveyards minister, Richard signs along highways through- Hall, was the subject out the nation. His signature Graveyards are places of wonder. Urban grave- of a nationally released sign was a heavy concrete cross yards demonstrate the cultural diversity found in our documentary film, emblazoned: “GET RIGHT WITH GOD.” cities, while those in the countryside offer a distilled, Raise the Dead. crystalline look at community beliefs. Both are filled Mayes lived several years in Some of the most Tennessee and later moved just with the most profound expressions of love, regret visually striking across the Kentucky line to and hope. Middlesboro. religious signs are In the countryside graveyards are usually either 7 community burial sites, sometimes associated with a other symbols of love Grave Houses church, or smaller family plots. Folks tended to like and memorials to Older graveyards sometimes hilltops or ridges for burial, saying that they drain past life can be found contain structures built over well. A recurring theme in discussions of traditional by spending a few graves. The custom was much grave sites is keeping rain and water off the grave, hours in Southeast more common in the 19th but we will also note that hilltops have a sacred as- Tennessee’s graveyards. Century than today, but a few grave houses are still being pect in most of the area’s religious traditions. Here lately, angels built. Most people say they are Grave markers range have again become a built to keep rain off the grave. from simple to elabo- popular symbol. A common wooden variety was of lattice work slats, but rate. Local stone cutters A long-standing tra- most of those have collapsed fashioned most rural dition is “decoration over the years. A more durable markers until marble day.” Families and house is the “comb grave.” became widely avail- congregations associ- Built of sandstone slabs, they able in the early 20th ated with graveyards can occasionally be found near the base of the Cumberland Century. Older stones often set aside a day Plateau. Comb graves re- sometimes demonstrate remarkable, highly stylized to get together and semble the peak, or comb, of a calligraphy and geometric shapes. Individual letters “decorate” the site. house roof. Rectangular stone in the inscriptions may be reversed and recall the The actual preparation structures with a flat roof are custom, found worldwide, of reversal as a symbol of is done before the day, called “box graves.” More re- cently concrete block and metal death. Less common, but still in use, are more or as folks trim relatives’ roofing material has been used. less elaborate structures built over the grave. graves and bring flow- Marble was an unsatisfactory medium for markers ers. The day itself is since it was easily stained by cedar sap. The plant- most often marked by dressing up and visiting at the ing of evergreens in graveyards, most often cedar graveyard, and sometimes there is a dinner on the or holly, was symbolic of everlasting life, again, as ground. Undecorated graves are remarked on and with hilltop placement and reversal, an ancient and those dead are pitied for having such worthless and pervasive symbol. lazy children. Granite soon replaced marble and became the One final note on etiquette, as you go through standard about the time of “clean cemeteries.” The these “old greenswards,” try to avoid stepping on “clean cemetery movement” was a post-World War II graves. Some people don’t mind, but others may be phenomenon preoccupied with keeping graveyards upset and offended. The still-living relatives may not in military order. The movement peaked with the like it either. “memorial gardens” design, which permitted only small bronze plaques and focused on easy mowing. Many extraordinary traditional grave monu- On the Glory Land Road ... ments and decorations were destroyed before people rebelled and started decorating their graves again. Major religious sites are legion. Southeast Tennes- Concrete sculpture, decorative glass, and a host of see is home to significant houses of worship, grave- yards, meeting grounds, and signage far too numer- 8 ous and varied to describe here. Calendar events and public gatherings of all sorts abound, as do radio sta- 1. Siskin Museum of Reli- tions devoted to music and other religious program- gious Artifacts ming. We can only treat the highlights in the next Houses over 450 artifacts from few pages. Some additional information is available Jewish and Christian traditions. on the web at www.southeasttennessee.com. Assembled by Garrison and Mose Siskin, the collection also includes Islamic, Buddhist, Hindu, and Confucian items. 1101 Carter Street, Chattanooga Chattanooga and Hamilton County (423) 648-1700, www.siskin.org Founded in 1816 as Ross’s Landing, a center for Garrison and Mose Siskin includes over 450 signifi- Cherokee trade, Chattanooga took its current name cant Jewish and Christian artifacts as well as items after the Cherokee Removal, the Trail of Tears, in from Islam, Buddhism, Hinduism and Confucian- 1838. The city developed as a river port, and later as ism. The collection ranges from the 16th to the 20th a rail and industrial center. century, from carved wood and stone to intricately Chattanooga is the major population center of the worked ivory and silver. After a life-threatening train region and hosts the greatest variety of beliefs. The accident in 1942, Chattanooga Steel manufacturer city is home to Hindu temples and Muslim mosques, Garrison Siskin made a promise to God that if he Jewish synagogues and Catholic cathedrals, major were spared he would spend the rest of his live help- congregations of most protestant denominations as ing others. In addition to establishing the Children’s well as believers of an untold number of other faiths. Institute he and his brother Mose financed several The great majority of the region’s Jews live in Chatta- acquisition trips by Dr. Harris Swift, the Siskin’s nooga, as do most of its African-Americans. After the Rabbi, resulting in this renowned collection. civil war many blacks moved to town to find work, You can easily spend a day or two touring the though there are still thriving black communities in great houses of worship in downtown Chattanooga. rural Southeast Tennessee. To the west, Saint Paul’s Episcopal Church (305 West Seventh Street) was founded in 1852. They Downtown Chattanooga built their second and current church in 1881. Downtown Chattanooga hosts a number of signif- One block to the southeast, Second Presbyterian icant sites. A great place to start is the Chattanooga Church of Chattanooga (700 Pine Street) has been Regional History Museum (400 Chestnut Street). downtown since 1871. Their excellent collection gives a grand overview of Bethlehem-Wiley Memorial United Methodist the culture and history of the greater Chattanooga Church (500 Lookout Street) is situated at the loca- region. Of particular interest is their exhibit on Civil tion of Ross’ Landing, the settlement that eventually Rights marches of the 1960’s and the role of local became Chattanooga. The original “pepperbox” churches in that social upheaval. Wiley Methodist Episcopal church on this site was Indicative of the multi-cultural nature of Chatta- used as a hospital during the Civil War, sustaining nooga is the Siskin Museum of Religious Artifacts extensive damage. It was sold in 1867 to a local Af- at the Siskin Children’s Institute. The collection of rican-American Methodist Episcopal congregation. 9 Work began on the current brick structure in 1886. any church in downtown -- June 21, 1840. It was More information on the history of African-Ameri- organized by two men from the Brainerd Mission to can religion in Chattanooga can be found several the Cherokees, their original work having been inter- blocks to the south, in the Chattanooga African rupted by the 1838 Removal. The current church American Museum (200 East Martin Luther King building was constructed in 1910. Blvd). Christ Church Episcopal (663 Douglas Street) Several significant sites are located generally along began as a new Parish in 1900 and moved into the McCallie Avenue running from the northeast to the current building in 1908. The interior was designed southwest. Saints Peter and Paul Catholic Church by the architect Ralph Adams Cram and completed (214 East Eighth Street) serves as the center of a in 1930. The University of Tennessee at Chatta- Parish established in 1852. Construction on the nooga’s Patton Chapel (615 McCallie Avenue), a present church began in 1888. The stained glass cornerstone of the UTC campus, was dedicated in windows were designed by Louis Comfort Tiffany. 1919. First Centenary United Methodist Church is the Mizpah Temple result of two congregations merging. The oldest (923 McCal- was established in 1839. First Methodist Episcopal lie Avenue) is the was organized by the northern branch of the church third Temple of the during the Civil War. Only the steeple of its old Reform Mizpah Stone Church church building, known as the “ ,” Congregation. The still remains (corner of Georgia Street and McCallie congregation was Avenue). established in 1866 First Baptist Church East Eight Street Church by the Hebrew Benevolent Association. Their sec- (506 East Eighth ond synagogue, used from 1904 to 1928, was of the Roland Marvin Carter Street) was established classic style and is still standing (at Oak and Lindsay Chattanooga native Roland by Federal soldiers Streets). The current synagogue was provided by Carter (1943 - ) is an interna- and originally called Adolph S. Ochs publisher of the Chattanooga Times tionally recognized composer, Shiloh Baptist. The and later the New York Times. Mizpah Cemetery arranger and conductor. Cur- present church was (corner of Third and Collins Streets) was purchased rently professor of music at the University of Tennessee at built by former slaves by the Benevolent Association as a potter’s field Chattanooga, he also serves as in 1885. Rev. Martin in 1866. The Association exhumed the bodies of choirmaster-organist at First Luther King applied Union and Confederate soldiers killed in the Chatta- Baptist Church East Eighth for a job as pastor here nooga area and buried them here with Jewish rites. Street and as director of music in 1954. Nearby the for the Chattanooga Choral About a mile on down McCallie and a bit to First Presbyterian Society for the Preservation the south we find Highland Park Baptist Church Church of Chatta- of African American Song. Mr. (1907 Bailey Avenue). First formed on Ivey Street in Carter is also the founder and nooga (554 McCallie CEO of MAR-VEL, a music 1890, the congregation moved to its current loca- Avenue) lays claim tion in 1904. The current church building and two publishing company specializing to the earliest known in African American traditions previous buildings – the middle, an aircraft hanger and composers. founding date of – all stand in a row. In 1942, Lee Robertson came 10 Lee Roberson to Highland Park and and memorials carved in styles and depicting themes Born in Indiana, Lee Roberson was with the church ranging from neo-classical to gothic to Victorian. At (1909 - ) studied history, theol- for the next forty over 100 acres, the cemetery is also maintained as a ogy and music. He worked on years. He led the con- botanical garden, containing a wide variety of fruit early radio, singing on WHAS gregation to establish trees and other flowering plants. in Louisville and on WSM in Tennessee Temple Nashville, before entering the St. Elmo proper is home to a number of older University, occupying ministry in 1932 in Green- churches. Thankful Memorial Episcopal (1607 briar, Tennessee. In 1942 he several blocks south West 43rd Street) dates from 1904. St. Elmo Pres- came to serve as pastor of of the church. The byterian Church (4400 St. Elmo Avenue) is notable Highland Park Baptist Church, Highland Park con- for its Victorian architectural embellishments. St. and established Tennessee gregation also owns Temple University. His tenure Elmo United Methodist Church (4626 St. Elmo the Asbury Chapel, a was marked by phenomenal Ave) began in 1883 and constructed the present growth at the church with over brick gothic sanctuary building in 1921. Other older churches include St. 60,000 joining the Church. He completed in 1909 Elmo Avenue Baptist Church (4500 St. Elmo Ave) has overseen the training of and serving for many and St. Elmo Church of Christ (4713 St. Elmo thousands of pastors, evange- years as the Asbury lists, and missionaries; and has Ave). preached around the world in United Methodist revival meetings and conferenc- Church. It sits across Above St. Elmo rises Lookout Mountain. Long es. Dr. Roberson is still active the street from the known for its scenic views and somewhat cooler as a minister. current Highland Park climate, the Mountain crosses the state line into building. Georgia. In 1928, four months before black Friday, the luxurious Lookout Mountain Hotel opened. Before leaving downtown Chattanooga we should Boasting the largest ballroom in the South, the hotel Chattanooga note the spring and fall concerts of the was designed to serve wealth and privilege as a retreat Choral Society for the Preservation of African during prohibition. The stock market crash ended American Song (P.O. Box 6082, Chattanooga, Tenn those plans, and a mid-century re-opening as the 37401). Watch for announcement of the dates. “Castle in the Clouds” by a group of Miami hoteliers fared little better. St. Elmo and Lookout Mountain The grand old building has thrived though as St. Elmo, at the base of Lookout Mountain, saw rapid growth during the planning and development of the Chickamauga Chattanooga National Military 2. Covenant Park, dedicated in 1890. The town, annexed by College Chattanooga in 1929, is designated a historic dis- Occupies the grand trict and is home to hundreds of National Register old Lookout Mountain properties. Hotel. Stained glass windows in the Chapel Of particular interest to us is Forest Hills Cem- tell the story of the Old and New Testaments. Maintains etery (4016 Tennessee Avenue). Forest Hills is a significant collection of rare books. noted for its vast collection of stones, mausoleums 14049 Scenic Highway, Lookout Mountain, Georgia.
11 Carter Hall, the centerpiece of Covenant Col- work until Cherokee Removal in 1838. The build- lege (14049 Scenic Highway, Lookout Mountain, ings are now gone, but the cemetery remains. Inter- Georgia). The college was established in Pasadena pretive signs assist the visitor. in 1955 by the Presbyterian Church and moved to While in the neighborhood one might visit the Lookout Mountain in 1964, when it purchased the East Ridge Church of Christ (501 McBrien Road) hotel. Other, more recently constructed buildings notable for its excellent conversion of an old school include a chapel with large stained glass windows. A building to a church. rare book collection includes volumes dated back to 1576. Collegedale If you are visiting in December note that Madrigal Dinners are held annually in Carter Hall’s dining The Seventh Day Adventist Church operates room. The seven course meals with music and enter- Southern Adventist University (Apison Pike). tainment are open to the public. Beginning as Graysville Academy in Rhea County in 1892, the college purchased its present land and Brainerd and East Ridge established Collegedale in 1916 after a fire at the original location the previous year. The university One of the oldest sites in Hamilton County is maintains an excellent radio station, though with the Brainerd Mission Site and Cemetery (Brainerd a heavy emphasis on European court traditions – WSMC 90.5 FM. Of immediate interest here, they also operate a renowned archaeology museum 3. Brainerd Mission Site and Cemetery and library. The Cemetery is all that remains of TheLynn H. Wood Archaeological Museum this early mission complex. Founded is operated by the school’s Institute of Archaeology in 1816 by the American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions the mission functioned until Removal 4. Lynn H. Wood Archaeological Museum in 1838. Location: Brainerd Road near East Holding hundreds of artifacts Gate Mall from the Near East, illustrating the natural and cultural setting for biblical history. The largest Road near East Gate Mall). Established in 1816 teaching collection in North and named after the 18th century missionary David America. Brainerd, the mission was sponsored by the Boston Location: Southern Adventist based American Board of Commissioners for Foreign University, Collegedale. Missions with the purpose of converting Cherokee to Christianity. Agriculture, trades and domestic arts were taught to several hundred children. The which coordinates the archaeological programs of mission included a church, two mills, a garden, and the School of Religion. The museum was estab- living quarters for boys, girls and teachers. Though lished to promote and facilitate the study of the partially burned in 1830, the mission continued its 12 ancient Near East, the natural and cultural setting Church of God. It was the scene of that great moral- for biblical history, through teaching, research and ity play, the Scopes monkey trial. Finally, it has been documentation, exhibition, and community educa- an important publishing center for religious music. tion. It houses the William G. Dever Near Eastern Collection, which serves as a basis for their exhibits Southern Bradley County of more than 200 objects from Egypt, Babylonia, Persia, Syria-Palestine, Greece, Cyprus, and Anatolia. Located in the southern part of the county, just Highlights include an ancient Babylonia stamp with off Highway 60, Red Clay State Historical Park is Nebuchadnezzar’s name, a complete series of lamps from the copper age to early Arabic periods, a rare 5. Red Clay State Historical Park Syrian clay model of a chariot complete with wheels, Site of the Cherokee council meet- and cuneiforms tables from Ur. This collection is the ings from 1832 until the “Trail of largest teaching collection of ancient Near Eastern Tears” in 1838. Includes a visitor’s ceramics in North America. center, a recreated Cherokee settle- ment and Council House, and a permanent exhibit. Admission price: $3 per vehicle. The Great Valley A central core of the “ridge and valley” system, the site of the capital of the Cherokee from 1832 un- The Great Valley of the Tennessee River runs from til 1838. By 1832, the State of Georgia had stripped the southwest to the northeast. Most major, navi- the Cherokee of their political sovereignty and had gable water courses follow this path and it is the prevented Cherokees from meeting together. They natural pathway for roads and railroads. The Great were prohibited from holding council meetings in Valley has long been the primary highway of East Georgia for any reason other than to give up their Tennessee. Chattanooga, sitting at the southwest land. As a result, the Cherokee capital was moved end owes its importance as a transportation and from New Echota, Georgia to Red Clay, Tennes- manufacturing center to the valley. First the river, see. Up to 5000 people attended the eleven council then the railroad, later Lee Highway and finally I-75, meetings here before they were forcibly removed to provide a path through East Tennessee. Oklahoma on the Trail of Tears. It was here, on the These evolving transportation systems led to the council grounds, that the Cherokee first learned of development and growth of the valley and engen- the planned removal of their people. dered competition between population centers as Red Clay includes a visitor center, a recreated modes of transport shifted from river to rail to auto. Cherokee settlement and Council House, and a It is thus a natural and perhaps inevitable result that permanent exhibit with information on Cherokee some of the region’s – and the nation’s – great reli- religion, and serves as an Official Interpretive Center gious stories have played out in the Great Valley. of the National Historic Trail of Tears. Regularly The Great Valley served as the departure point scheduled events include Cherokee Recognition of the Cherokee in their forced exodus. It saw the Days on the first Saturday and Sunday of August and development of a major force in world religion, the the 19th Century Cherokee Christmas in December. 13 Cleveland 7. Lee University The Bradley County seat of Cleveland is home to a number of important sites, many associated with Liberal arts university operated by the Church of God. The Church traces its origins the Church of God. Campus includes to the Christian Union, formed at an 1886 meeting a building from the Methodist Cen- of Baptist dissidents on Barney Creek in Monroe tenary College as well as the old Bob Jones College campus. The University County. It grew rapidly after the great Pentecostal is home to the Dixon Pentecostal revival of the mid-1890’s. The Church formed a Research Center, the largest Pente- General Assembly and by 1908 had established its costal archives in the South. headquarters in Cleveland, prospering under the leadership of A.J. Tomlinson. to its present location in 1947. The campus incor- TheChurch of God International Offices porates one building from the Methodist women’s (2490 Keith Street, Cleveland) are in a three-build- school, Centenary College, established in 1885. ing complex. The oldest building dates from 1968. Other older buildings were part of Bob Jones Col- Stones from the Barney Creek mill site where the lege which operated on this location from 1932 to Church was organized are on display. The Global 1947. These buildings include the dormitory and classrooms used by Billy Graham when he attended Bob Jones in 1936. Scenes from the history of Lee 6. Church of God International Offices University are depicted in a three-story mural in A three building com- the lobby of De Vos Center for the Humanities. plex featuring a mosaic The university is home to theDixon Pentecostal mural of the Day of Research Center, the largest Pentecostal archive in Pentecost and the the South, with over history of the Church A.J. Tomlinson of God, as well as a prayer plaza and garden. The prayer 10,000 catalogued plaza is open at all times. items. The Center’s A native of Indiana, Ambrose collection dates Jessup Tomlinson (1865-1943) was of Quaker background. In back to 1886 and 1899 he moved to the moun- Evangelism building features a mosaic mural cre- the founding of the tains of western North Caro- ated by Italian artist Sirio Tonelli and depicting the Church of God. lina and worked as an itinerant descent of the Holy Spirit on the Day of Pentecost preacher. In 1903 he joined the A number of other group that would later call itself and the history of the Church of God. Between the significant Church the Church of God, and was three buildings is a prayer plaza and garden featuring of God sites exist elected as their first general bronze sculpture and marked with Bible passages on in Cleveland. The overseer in 1909 in Cleveland, the importance of prayer. Pathway Press (1080 Tennessee. Removed from office in 1923, Lee University (1120 North Ocoee Street, Cleve- Montgomery Avenue) is the publishing arm he left the organization and land) is a liberal arts university sponsored by the formed what would later be Church of God. It began in 1918 as Bible Training of the Church of God known as the Church of God of School, and after a brief time in Sevierville moved established in 1910. Prophecy, also based in Cleve- They are one of the land. 14 world’s largest producers of shape-note song books. Broad Street) was organized in 1867. The current North Cleveland Church of God (335 11th Street building, consecrated in 1872, was built by the NE) was the first Church of God in Cleveland and is Craigmile family in memory of their daughter, Nina, now the oldest continuing church in the denomina- after she was killed in an accident when a train ran tion. into the horse and buggy in which she was riding. A It is difficult to overstate A.J. Tomlinson’s role in mausoleum was built of carrera marble at the same the development of the Church of God and the es- time to house Nina’s remains and that of her family. tablishment of the Church of God of Prophesy. His The mausoleum cost nearly the same as the church. life is memorialized at two sites personal to him. A. TheChurch of God (Jerusalem Acres) (1826 J. Tomlinson’s House (2525 Gaut Street) was pur- Dalton Pike) split from the Church of God of chased by Tomlinson when he first moved to Cleve- Prophecy in the mid-20th Century. The Jerusalem land in 1904 and served as his residence until his Acres site includes an extensive sculpture garden with death in 1943. A legend says he got a good price on biblical symbolism. TheFirst Presbyterian Church it because it was thought to be haunted. This white of Cleveland (433 North Ocoee Street) was estab- lished in 1837 and is the oldest sanctuary in Cleve- 8. A.J. Tomlinson’s House land. TheMuseum Center at 5-Points (200 Inman Street East), an independent non-profit organization, This white, clapboard structure interprets area history through living history char- was Tomlinson’s residence from 1904 until his death in 1943. It acters including a methodist circuit riding preacher served as the first headquarters representing the era between 1800 and 1840. of the Church of God, and later Other religious references and artifacts are featured of the Church of God of Prophecy. throughout the Museum Center’s core exhibit, The River of Time. clapboard structure was the first “headquarters” of the Church of God and later the Church of God of Northern Bradley County Prophecy. A marker in the front yard tells the story of the house. TheUnion Grove Church of God of Prophecy Fort Hill Cemetery (Ocoee Street SW) contains (located in the Union Grove Community) is the site the grave of A.J. Tomlinson. Several other former of one of the earliest congregations organized by A.J. general overseers of the Church of God are buried Tomlinson. Dating from 1904, it was also the loca- here and in nearby Hilcrest Cemetery. Other churches in Cleveland include Broad Street 9. Cumberland Presbyterian Church and Cemetery, Charleston United Methodist Church (corner of Broad Street and Central Avenue) whose congregation goes back Used as a hospital during the Civil to 1837. In 1849 the church served as the host of War. The nearby cemetery holds the first session of the Holston Conference to be both Federal and Confederate held in the Ocoee region. The present sanctuary was graves. built in 1893. St. Luke’s Episcopal Church (320 15 tion of the second General Assembly of the Church The original building, built about 1857, is incor- of God. Although the original church was destroyed porated into the present building. Pisgah Baptist by a tornado in 1973, the current building includes Church is said to have begun in 1817 and took a photographs of the original and a concrete marker lead in the establishment of several congregations tells the story of the site. in the former Cherokee territory. The congregation TheCumberland Presbyterian Church and called for a convention in 1823 that resulted in the Cemetery (Railroad Street, Charleston) was built organization of the Hiwassee Baptist Association. about 1850 and used as a hospital for both Union Before leaving Meigs County we will note that a Mayes Cross and Confederate troops in the Civil War. Marks in is located north of Decatur on High- the windows were caused by horses tied outside the way 58. church. Both Federal and Confederate soldiers are buried in the cemetery. The old building still stands, though the congregation worships in a new sanctu- Rhea County ary. Dayton gained international notoriety in 1925 as the site of the Scopes monkey trial testing a Tennes- see law on teaching evolution. Planned with civic Meigs County promotion in mind, the trial was set up by Day- Decatur United Methodist Church (Vernon ton business leaders with the willing participation Street, Decatur) was established about 1838 with 12. Rhea County Courthouse
10. Decatur United Methodist Church Site of the 1935 Scopes evolution trial and an annual reenactment of that Established in 1838, the original event using the original transcript. building is incorporated within the The Courthouse also houses a Scopes present structure. Trial museum.
of teacher John Scopes. The trial was held in the courtroom of the Rhea County Courthouse (1475 early services held in the Meigs County Courthouse. Market Street, Dayton). In addition to the Scopes Trial courtroom, the Courthouse contains a museum devoted to the trial. Each year in the third week of 11. Pisgah Baptist Church July the original courtroom is the scene of a dramatic Founded in 1817, the church was reenactment based on transcripts. Audience mem- instrumental in the founding of the bers are chosen for the jury. Hiwassee Baptist Association. During his time in Dayton, William Jennings Bryan expressed a wish that a college for men be es- tablished in Dayton. Following his death in Dayton
16 named the Athens Female College and has been af- 13. Bryan College filiated with the Methodist Church since that date. The Old College building was completed in 1858 Established in honor of and is still standing. The building was used as a William Jennings Bryan, the college held its first hospital during the Civil War. Today its name is lent classes in 1930. to the Old College Harp Singers who use the New Harp of Columbia and meet for a special singing in May. The campus is also home toTrinity United Methodist Church (100 East College Street). on July 26, 1925 the Bryan Memorial University Association launched a national campaign to raise Other significant sites in Athens include First money for the school. The first classes to be held at United Presbyterian (21 North Jackson Street), Bryan College were in 1930 at the old high school. begun in 1889 as a mission of a church in Pennsyl- The Christian liberal arts school occupies a 110-acre vania. The present building was constructed in 1892 campus with more than ten buildings. and includes seats from an opera house donated by the Pennsylvania church. St. Mark’s African Meth- odist Episcopal Zion (Corner of Knoxville Avenue The Overhill Country and Jackson Street) was built on Free Hill, an Afri- can-American community within Athens that devel- Taking its name from the Overhill Cherokee oped after the Civil War. It was threatened by Urban town, the region is characterized by mines, mill Renewal projects in the 1960’s, but church members towns, railroads and wild rivers; the Overhill region protested the plan and saved the building. The abuts the mountainous Tennessee - North Carolina church hosts a banquet each year on Martin Luther border. The area played a major role in the history King Day. Mars Hill Presbyterian Church (205 of the Pentecostal movement. North Jackson Street) is said to be the oldest church in Athens, organized in 1823. The present sanctuary McMinn County was built in 1878. TheMcMinn County Living Heritage Museum (522 West Madison Avenue) has some information on the history of religion in the area. 14. Tennessee Wesleyan College A number of sites can be found outside Athens in Chartered in 1857 as the Athens McMinn County. Beth Salem Prebyterian Church Female College, the institution has been affiliated with the Methodist Church from the beginning. The 15. Beth Salem Church Old College building dates from 1858. This early African American church was founded the year after the Civil War ended. The church started in Athens, the county seat of McMinn, is home to a brush arbor. The current building Tennessee Wesleyan College (204 East College dates from 1922. Street). Chartered in 1857, the school was originally 17 (County Road 602) was founded in August 1866 Pentecostal Revival of 1896 where many say the first by two black ministers, George Waterhouse and modern manifestation of speaking in tongues and Jake Armstrong. The first services were held under healings occurred. The site of the first church build- a brush arbor. They later built a log structure, and ing in the Church of God movement was located the current building dates from the 1920’s. Church just across the road. TheFirst Assembly House services continued on a regular basis until the 1950’s. (River Hill Road) was the site of the First General A meeting is still held at Beth Salem every year on Assembly of the Church of God in 1906. A com- the last Sunday in August. TheRiceville United memorative service is held each January. A concrete Methodist Church (3846 Highway 11, Riceville) marker provides information on the 1906 meeting. was earlier affiliated with the Methodist Episcopal Liberty Baptist Church (on Tennessee Highway Church South, as identified on one of its stained 123/North Carolina Highway 294) excluded thirty glass panels. Prospect Methodist Church and Cemetery (County Road 804) is located southeast of 16. Fields of the Wood Englewood. Built in 1850, it is the oldest standing church in the county. The church has maintained A biblical park with massive detailed records over the years. A Decoration Day is displays illustrating the his- held the 4th Sunday in June and includes preaching tory of the Church of God of Prophecy and passages from and singing. the Bible. Includes a gift shop The village ofEtowah was built as a planned and cafe. No admission fee. community by the L&N Railroad in 1906, and a number of churches were included in the original plan attesting to the importance that was placed on or so of their members for their acceptance of the worship. Of special note is the Gospel Explosion holiness doctrine following the 1896 Shearer School- produced from time to time at the Gem Theater house revival. by the Etowah African American Heritage Com- Of special note is the Fields of the Wood (four mittee. Finally, just across the county line in the miles from the Polk County line on North Carolina Monroe County community of Coker Creek lies the Highway 294), a biblical park owned and operated Organizational Site of the Christian Union (one by the Church of God of Prophecy. The site is that mile north of Highway 68 on Barney Creek). This, of W.F. Bryant’s home where the Holiness Church the founding meeting of the Church of God, oc- was organized by R.G. Spurling in 1902 and where curred in 1886 at Richard G. Spurling’s mill. The A.J. Tomlinson joined the church in 1903. The park date “1886” is carved on a rock cliff above the site. includes a number of concrete markers and dis- plays that tell the story of the Church and illustrate Polk County biblical passages. The site includes the Ten Com- mandments laid out across a hillside, a recreation of A number of sites of historic importance to the Joseph’s tomb and Golgotha, and a 150 foot cross Church of God and the Pentecostal movement with flags of all the nations having Church of God are near the border of Polk County, Tennessee and of Prophecy congregations. Other features include a Cherokee County, North Carolina. TheShearer gift and book shop, a cafe, pavilion, baptismal pool, Schoolhouse site was the location of the great 18 Beginning to the south of I-24, Virgin of the 17. Hiwassee Union Church Poor Shrine (New Hope, Marion County) is a repli- ca of a shrine in Banneux, Belgium where the Virgin This non-denominational Mary is said to have appeared to a child, Mariette church housed a Masonic Lodge on the second floor. Beco, starting in January 1933. Located on a 600
18. Virgin of the Poor Shrine prayer chapel, gospel theater, picnic areas and nature A replica of a shrine to Mary who trails. appear in Belgium in 1933. Dedi- Other sites in Polk County include the Hiwassee cated in 1982, the shrine depicts the Union Church in Reliance. The non-denomina- appearance of Mary in an exterior tile mosaic and Jesus speaking from tional, clapboard church had a Masonic Lodge on the cross to Saint John and Virgin the second floor. TheOcoee Whitewater Center Mary on and interior mosaic. (4400 Highway 64, Copperhill) was constructed to host the whitewater events at the 1996 Olympic Games and includes the Olympic Memorial Garden acres farm willed to the Catholic Church by the built to honor Israeli athletes and coaches killed Duncan family, the structure houses a statue brought during the Munich games in 1972. Also note the from Banneux. The shrine includes an exterior tile Mayes Cross on Highway 411 south of Benton. mosaic depicting the appearance of Mary to Mariette in 1933. An interior mosaic shows Jesus speaking from the cross to Saint John. The shrine was dedi- The Cumberland Plateau cated in 1982, and Stations of the Cross were added The Cumberland Plateau is a great tableland at in 1993. 2000 feet altitude running from Kentucky to Ala- Further east, South Pittsburg is the site of a 19th bama. The southern end of the plateau is divided by century stone church, the Chapel on the Hill (801 the picturesque Sequatchie Valley, with the resulting Elm Avenue, South Pittsburg). Originally a Primi- eastern portion of the plateau called Walden Ridge. tive Baptist church built in 1888, the restored chapel The rugged escarpments leading to the Plateau is available for weddings and community events. prevented easy travel and the area has remained a Also in South Pittsburg, Christ Episcopal Church somewhat isolated and culturally rich region. Sand- (302 West 3rd Street, South Pittsburg) was founded stone caps the Plateau, occurs in layers, and is easily in 1876 and includes a stained glass window by quarried, providing an accessible supply of material Tiffany. To the west of South Pittsburg, in the for buildings and grave monuments. This area is community of Battle Creek, Saint John the Bap- comprised of several counties, but a more natural tist Episcopal Church (12757 Ladd’s Cove Road, and very real cultural division is by geographic area: Marion County) was made from stones taken from valley and plateau. area farms in 1934 and has a cedar shake roof. The Episcopal Church has a long-standing and influential The Sequatchie Valley 19 presence in this area. in transports to death camps. The car now contains Going north up the Sequatchie Valley, Jasper is 11 million paperclips representing the Jews, Romany, home to Faith Baptist Church (503 Betsy Pack 7th Day Adventists and others killed during the Drive, Jasper). The church was built in 1910 in Holocaust. The story was documented in the award PaperClips Colonial Revival style. A couple of blocks further winning film , released by Miramax in north is Wells Chapel United Methodist Church 2004. (605 Betsy Pack Drive, Jasper), a small Gothic Re- North of Whitwell, the Sequatchie County seat vival church built in 1915 of area sandstone. At the of Dunlap is home to a number of churches includ- ing Chapel Hill United Methodist Church (5149 East Valley Road, Dunlap). The first church at the 19. Whitwell Middle School Holocaust Project 21. Welch Chapel and Cemetery Begun as a project to il- lustrate the enormity of 6 The congregation dates back to 1826. million deaths, the project They hold dinners on the 4th Sunday attracted international attention and is the subject of a with Decoration Day on the 4th Sunday in May. Home- recent award winning documentary film. Groups can ar- coming is the 4th Sunday in August. They have hosted a range lunch two blocks away at the Buttonwillow Church. Christmas Eve program annually since 1910. northern end of town is McKendree United Meth- Chapel Hill site was Hennigar’s Chapel, built in odist Church (106 Highway 150, Jasper). 1852 and named for the circuit rider John Hennigar. The town of Whitwell has achieve a degree of The present church was constructed in 1884 and a fame as a result of a recent project by students of vestibule was added in the 1930’s. The Chapel Hill Whitwell Middle School. In 1998 the school began Church hosts a Decoration Day and Homecoming Welch an effort to illustrate the enormity of the Holocaust. on the 3rd Sunday in May. Also in Dunlap, Chapel Methodist Church and Cemetery Noting that the people of Norway had used paper- (48 clips on their lapels as a symbol of protest against Welch Chapel Lane, Dunlap) dates back to a Meth- Nazi policies, students began amassing 6 million odist camp meeting in 1826 led by circuit riding paper clips. TheirWhitwell Middle School Holo- Minister Jonathan Hale. Stories are still told of the caust Project (1130 Main Street, Whitwell) caught weddings Hale conducted on his first trip in. This the attention of two German journalists who ac- current building was completed in 1925 after the quired a 1917 German cattle car that had been used previous building was blown down in 1921.
20. Chapel Hill United Meth- odist Church 22. Pikeville African Methodist Episcopal Zion Church There has been a church on the site since 1852. A portion of the Established in 1888 and served as a current building dates from 1884. school until the 1920’s.
20 Between Dunlap and Pikeville, in Bledsoe Coun- ty, lies the site of Sequatchie College (Alvin York 24. University of the South Highway, College Station). The school grew from a community meeting at Bryant Camp Ground in The first Episcopal college in Tennessee, established in 1869. A 1858, though the war delayed opening until 1865. three-story cross is a memorial to The first student body included both Confederate alumni who have died in the military. and Federal veterans. It operated until 1887. Methodist, Baptist and Church of Christ con- gregations were all active in Bledsoe County by the versity Avenue, Sewanee) in 1869. It was the first 1820’s. The oldest African-American church in Episcopal college in Tennessee. Today the University the county still operating is the Pikeville African occupies a ten thousand acres campus with many buildings constructed of local stone. A three-story 23. Swafford Chapel white cross serves as a monument to the sons and and Graveyard daughters of the University and Sewanee who have died in the military. William Porcher DuBose, who The original church was built in the 1820’s, the current building in 1912. 25. Saint Andrews - Sewanee School
An Episcopalian pre- Methodist Episcopal Zion Church (East Valley paratory school with Drive, Pikeville). The church was established by at a history on this site least 1888. The building also served as a school for going back to 1868. African-Americans until the 1920’s. It is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. taught at the University from 1870 to 1908, was one Swafford Chapel and Graveyard is north of of the earliest theologians to incorporate evolution in Pikeville off the Upper East Valley Road. The his teachings. original church was a log structure built by Thomas Swafford between 1820 and 1827. A second church Nearby, and with historical ties to the university building was partly demolished when Federal troops is Saint Andrews-Sewanee School (290 Quintard stole the lumber for a barracks. The current building Road, Sewanee) an Episcopal preparatory school. dates from 1912. Saint Andrews-Sewanee is the successor to a num- ber of earlier schools located on the site. The first The Plateau was the Junior Department of the University of the South, authorized in 1861, though the Civil War As we mentioned earlier, there is a notable Episco- delayed opening until 1868. The school was built palian presence on the Cumberland Plateau. A cen- on land donated by the Sewanee Mining Company ter for much of this activity is in Sewanee in south- in 1858 with a stipulation that a school be in opera- ern Grundy County. Construction began on the tion within ten years. The longest lived schools were campus of the University of the South (735 Uni- Saint Mary’s for girls and Sewanee Military Academy
21 Named for the local chalybeate springs, Beersheba 26. Monteagle Sunday Springs maintained a renowned spa throughout most School of the nineteenth century. TheBeersheba Springs Assembly Grounds Methodist Assembly (on Tennessee Highway 56, Established in 1882 and Beersheba Springs) began as a resort hotel in 1857. modeled on the Chautauqua The site was purchased by the Methodist Church in Assembly in New York with the goal of providing training for Sunday School teachers. 28. Northcutt’s Cove Latter Day Saints Church for boys. Both eventually became co-educational and merged in 1981. Dedicated in 1909, the chapel is the oldest Mormon North of Sewanee and just off I-24 is Monteagle, church in Tennessee and home to the Monteagle Sunday School Assembly considered by many to be Grounds (1 Assembly Avenue). The assembly was the oldest in the Southeastern United States. established in 1882 and modeled on the Chautauqua Assembly in New York. The goal was short-term education to train Sunday School teachers. The the early 1940’s and is used for assemblies, retreats complex sits on land donated by the Tennessee Coal and workshops by the United Methodists of Tennes- and Railroad Company. The site contains an audito- see. rium seating 1,500 and 161 cabins built by returning visitors. Also at Monteagle, the DuBose Memorial A couple of important sites lie to the northwest Church Training School (653 College Street) began of Beersheba Springs. Northcutt’s Cove Church of in 1872 as a school and was purchased by the Epis- Jesus Christ of Latter-Day Saints (near Irving Col- copal Church after World War I. Today it is used by lege) was dedicated in 1909 and is believed to be the the church as a conference center and retreat. oldest Mormon meeting house in Tennessee and per- haps in the southeastern United States. Northcutt’s To the east is Tracy City. Christ Church Episco- Cove became the headquarters for the church’s pal (10th Street, Tracy City) was established there Eastern Tennessee Conference. The chapel, which in 1868 and the current building was constructed in has the unique design of a vestibule in the base of a 1928. The Altar, Bishop’s chair, Priest chair, lectern bell tower, still has its original weatherboard siding. and communion rail were hand carved in the 1890’s. It was the site of a well-reported, three-day debate between a Mormon minister and a Church of Christ 27. Beersheba Springs minister in 1909. Another significant site just across Methodist Assembly the county line in Warren is Old Philadelphia Church of Christ (near Viola). Established in 1811, Based in a resort hotel built in it is considered by some to be one of the oldest 1857, the site is used for assemblies, retreats and workshops. Church of Christ congregations in Tennessee. The church always had an African-American membership
22 and is today predominantly black. A homecoming Tennessee Historical Society and University of has long been held on the first Sunday in May. Tennessee Press. Tennessee Encyclopedia of Culture and History. A great general overview of Tennessee, fully accessible online at
23 On the Glory Land Road
Religious Expression in Southeast Tennessee
This project was funded in part by grants from Economic Development Administration, Humanities Tennessee, an independant affiliate of the National Endowment for the Humanities, and Tennessee Department of Tourist Devel- opment. Text by Brent Cantrell
Southeast Tennessee Tourism Association P.O. Box 4757 Chattanooga, Tennessee 37405 423-424-4263 www.southeasttennessee.com
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