The Butterflies & Birds of Macedonia
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The Butterflies & Birds of Macedonia Naturetrek Tour Report 23 - 30 June 2015 Southern White Admiral Balkan Fritillary Little Tiger Blue Purple-shot Copper Report and images by Gerald Broddelez Naturetrek Mingledown Barn Wolf's Lane Chawton Alton Hampshire GU34 3HJ UK T: +44 (0)1962 733051 E: [email protected] W: www.naturetrek.co.uk Tour Report The Butterflies & Birds of Macedonia Tour participants: Gerald Broddelez (leader) & Martin Hrouzek (local) with seven Naturetrek clients Summary Although Macedonia is largely unknown to those of us in Western Europe with an interest in natural history, it is an extremely rich and exciting wildlife destination. The most southerly of the six republics that were previously a part of Yugoslavia, Macedonia boasts an impressive variety of habitats and scenery, from the high, forested peaks of the Baba Mountains to the hot, rolling plains of Pelagonia. This hidden jewel of the Balkans is also one of Europe’s very best destinations for butterflies. This was our pioneering tour, still we found over 110 species of Butterflies, including many Balkan specialities and Macedonian only endemic, the Macedonian Grayling. We also found an exciting diversity of birds like Dalmatian Pelican, Syrian Woodpecker, Sombre Tit, Roller, Long-legged Buzzard and Masked Shrike! Other wildlife did not disappoint with a good selection of Reptiles and Amphibians seen, many endemic to the Balkan! Day 1 Tuesday 23rd June Fly Thessaloniki & transfer to Kavadarci We departed London on a Jet Air flight to Thessaloniki, Greece. On arrival we met our local guides and transferred north to the border with Macedonia. On route we saw our first Collared Doves and Bee-eaters on the wires. The border crossing was a simple affair and soon we found ourselves in the town of Dojran were we had lunch. We then drove a short distance to a nearby lake and a first stop at a small quarry produced a good selection of butterflies. Swallowtail, Wood and Small White, Painted Lady, Spotted Fritillary, Marbled White and Clouded Yellow. Dragonflies seen were several rare Bladetails, Southern Skimmer and Norfolk Hawker. Great Reed Warblers and Black-headed Buntings were singing from the reedbeds and willows and Crested Lark and Turtle Dove were seen nicely on the wires overhead. We then drove to our comfortable hotel on the outskirts of Kavadarci, a historic town situated near the Vardar River in the heart of Macedonia’s wine country. Day 2 Wednesday 24th June Kavadarci Following breakfast, we explored the steppe areas around the Vardar River. A short walk along a small stream had a wonderfull variety of insects and birds. A Short-toed Eagle, several Lesser Grey Shrikes and our First Hermann’s Tortoise were seen on route. Along the stream many species of Dragonflies kept us entertained, South Skimmer, Scarce Chaser, Emperor, Broad Scarlet and Broad-bodied Chaser. As the field were heating up butterflies started to appear and soon we © Naturetrek July 16 1 The Butterflies & Birds of Macedonia Tour Report had our hands full looking at and identifying many local specialities and more widespread species. Among the better sp seen Hungarian, Persian and Mallow Skipper, Beautiful male Lesser Fiery Copper, Zephyr and Iolas Blue, Scarce Swallowtai, Great Banded Grayling and many Spotted FrItillaries. The nearby bushes were full of birds Woodchat Shrike, Black-headed Bunting, Crested Lark etc. Areas of short grass and bare ground are also home to numerous insect species such as the giant cricket Bradyporus dasypus, long-horned beetles. A unsheduled stop near a White Storks nest not only gave us great looks at both young and adult birds in the nest but also at the many displaying Spanish Sparrows sharing the huge nest. A local shared some of his fruits , mainly peaches with us and was proud to talk about his country. We then continued to the dramatic limestone cliffs of the Demir Kapija Gorge cut by the Varda River. Enroute we explored an arid valley home to a single Egyptian Vulture, several Southern Admirals and a men holding a Blasius Horshoe Bat ( one of the biggest colonies in the World is found in a deep cave nearby). We had lunch in a shady spot near Klisura. Here Nettle Tree Butterfly, Large Tortoiseshell, Yellow-banded Skipper, Ilex Hairstreak and a Hermann’s Tortoise kept us from really enjoying our lunch! A short walk to a nearby monastery added the rare Masked Shrike and Griffon Vultures to the list. From here we returned to town to change money and refreshments before returning to our hotel in Kavadarci. A optional tour to the local Lesser Kestrel colony was organised. Again we enjoyed the local hospitality and snaps and after some waiting found a Little owl and a few Lesser Kestrels perched on the roof of the old buildings. Dinner tonight was outside at a local restaurant in an nearby park. Good food and wine was accompagnied by singing Nightingales and Scops Owls! Day 3 Thursday 25th June Kavadarci We made a short drive today to a small nearby village, surrounded by a patchwork of interesting habitats including dry limestone hills, cut by the dramatic Babuna Gorge, and rough, flower-rich, grassland. Along the river many Banded and Beautiful Demoiselles were found, Rollers and Long-legged Buzzards were displaying overhead and our first delicate Little Tiger Blue butterfly and Spreadwing was seen and photographed. Before lunch we explored the pine forests around the Maloso Lake area. Pyramidal and Eastern Lizard Orchid were found. Blue-spot Hairstreak and Oberthur’s Grizzled Skipper were new for the list. Lunch was taken by the lake. Many Bladetails, White-tailed Skimmers, a single Little Bittern and Great Reed Warbler were all seen well. We continued to the fascinating Roman site of Stobi, the best preserved archeological site in the country. While touring the excavated ruins of what once was a substanial trading settlement and home to more then 25000 people accompagnied by a local guide, we also found several Black-eared Wheatears. 2 © Naturetrek July 16 The Butterflies & Birds of Macedonia Tour Report Our final stop for the day was near Vidactevo. Here in the hill above town we had a fantastic time butterflying. Loads of butterflies were flying around or perched in the nearby bushes and included such goodies as Twin-spot, Niobe and Marbled Fritillary, Lattice Brown, Delattins Grayling, Essex, Small and Large Skipper.Overhead we found the last several Griffon and Egytian Vultures of the country! At dinner we were joined by Emile (the local vulture specialist and Dime the local butterfly specialist, who was to accompagny is for the rest of the tour). Day 4 Friday 26th June Bitola For the second half of our holiday, we moved to the historic town of Bitola, in south-western Macedonia. Set at the foot of the Baba Mountains, which rise to nearly 2,500 metres, Bitola was our base as we turned our attention to the upland butterfly species and other natural history of the Pelister National Park and Galicica Plateau. Our first stop was above the slopes of the Raec River. Here a variety of butterflies was seen and included Langs Short-tailed, Little , Idas and Little Tiger Blue, Ilex Hairstreak and Black-veined White. Near the River we found a Sombre Goldenring. It was seen and photographed as it chased, caught and ate a bee while perched in a nearby bush. Other noteworthy species seen were Green Hairstreak, Balkan White and Lulworth Skipper. We stopped for lunch by a small River in the Dren Mountains. Marbled Fritillaries, Lesser Purple Emperor, Large Blue ,Cardinal, Bergers Clouded Yellow and Sloe Hairstreak all fought for our attention. Several very colourful caterpillars were found and the pond held some frogs and dragonflies. Next we visited the limestone massif of Pletvar. Our main reason for stopping was to look for Macedonia’s only endemic butterfly, the Macedonian Grayling. It did not take long before we found and photographed our first specimen. By carefully checking the better spots on the mountain we found several more and other species like Balkan/Delatinns Grayling, Great Sooty Satyr and Hungarian Skipper. On the Rocky slopes we also found both Balkan Wall and Green Lizard closely watched by a small colony of Red-rumped Swallows nearby. During the afternoon we ascended the new road up to the 15th-century Treskavec Monastery and enjoyed some of the most stupendous views in all of Macedonia,out over the Pelagonia Plain and towards the Pelister massif. We checked a flowery meadow enroute and were rewarded with a good selection of fritillaries and moths. The monastery itself is under restoration, and we were privileged to meet and talk with its only occupant, Father Kalist, who has lived there for over ten years. As we left we found a young Little Owl on the ground near the entrance. It was to young to fly so we put it back in its nest. Finally, we made our way to our comfortable hotel in the small town of Bitola, our base for the final nights of the tour. © Naturetrek July 16 3 The Butterflies & Birds of Macedonia Tour Report Day 5 Saturday 27th June Bitola One of the highlights of the tour was a day spent in the Pelister National Park, a dramatic mountain range stretching between Macedonia and Greece. The Macedonian side is clothed in extensive alpine meadows, the most southerly range in the Balkans to show an ‘alpine’ character to its flora. The highest peak of Pelister (a name derived from the ancient Greek ‘peristera’, meaning pigeon) reaches over 2,400 metres and overlooks Bitola. We were picked up by the local rangers in off road vehicles, paying a visit first to the park visitor centre.