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Away from ’s glitzy Honghigh-end fashion stores are little- known design treasures offeringn sto we quality bespoke suits, sco exquisitett contemporary Wordsporcelain and shoes k by the gram. n ES AG TTY IM E

hy: G hy: g p Photogra Hong Kong, the glittering prize september 2013 QANTAS 101 visitors to hong kong who are keen to trawl the back streets are well rewarded

(Hip Wo Housewares). Put aside half a day and factor in Barista Jam for a caffeine hit. Chai Wan, on the east side of Hong Kong, is the neighbourhood of choice for cash-strapped creatives, due to its lower rents and voluminous warehouse-style apartments. Hop on bus 788 outside the markets, , Hong Kong Macau Ferry Pier in Sheung Wan – first stop is Chai Wan Industrial City Phase 2, which sounds a bit like something out of Blade Runner. The concrete tower blocks ong Kong is a compact, complex layering of are home to everything from Japanese clothing boutiques and subcultures and suburbs. Its secrets stretch far bookshops specialising in architecture, art and photography, to beyond the glossy confines of Tsim Sha Tsui and potters and antique furniture stores. Visitors keen to trawl the back glistening . To venture into the streets are well rewarded. New Territories or walk through “real” suburbs is to For shopping sustenance, Hong Kong offers many acclaimed gain aH greater understanding of what makes Hong Kong tick. restaurants as well as quirky food stalls, cafes and tea houses, On the edge of the Soho district in Central, Sheung Wan is one of notable among them the Tong Tai Seafood Restaurant (G/F 184A ES the most exciting places on Hong Kong Island. Meander west along Temple Street, Yau Ma Tei); Mido Café (63 Temple Street, Kowloon); AG Hollywood Road and venture down the side streets. Gough, Tung, Bamboo Village (G/F 265-267 Jordan Road, Kowloon); and TTY IM Aberdeen and Square Streets are just some that have been taken Chaiwanese (Unit 1307 Phase 1, Chai Wan Industrial City, 60 Wing E : G

over by enterprising young sole-traders who specialise in the Tai Road, Chai Wan). HY P bespoke and unique. Among them are traditional Chinese stores There are also private dining rooms such as Margaret Xu’s Kitchen stocking woollen underwear (Lee Kung Man Knitting Factory), Yin Yang (18 Ship Street, Wanchai, 2866 0868); and one of the cool- HOTOGRA bamboo homewares (Siu Woo Trading Co Ltd) and general stores est bars in Central, Salon No.10 (10 , Central).  P

102 QANTAS september 2013 design hong kong

Wing On department store; Chairman Mao figurines at the Hang Lung Trading Co (left)

embellished cakes sold by the metre. Choose from grosgrain, velvet and cotton ribbons to beautifully embroidered, architectural-looking lacework.

Kapok to your hotel within 12 hours, G/F 3 Sun Street, Wan Chai. and there is a courtesy bus back to 2520 0114. ka-pok.com your hotel. Take a carry basket and MTR: Admiralty. search for that perfect pair. You’ll Kapok showcases the very best come away with several. of new local and overseas design talent. SaintPaul is a Brussels- Yue Hwa Seibu based brand that makes shirts in Chinese Products Langham Place, 8 Argyle Street, printed fabric with subtle details 15/F Champion Building, 301-309 Mong Kok, Kowloon. 2269 1888. on collars and cuffs. Seventy Nathan Road, Kowloon. 3511 2222. facebook.com/hongkongseibu Eight Percent produces bags in yuehwa.com Mass Transit Rail MTR: Mong Kok. tanned Italian leather and canvas, (MTR): Jordan. Hidden away in Langham Place combining street cool and couture Established in 1959, this in the middle of bustling Mong craftsmanship. Island Slipper takes department store sells Chinese Kok, this department store offers the thong to stylish heights with merchandise to locals and European menswear by Paul Smith broad leather or fabric straps, N

inquisitive overseas types. Each as well as high-end Japanese labels, cargo or Hawaiian print insoles, TO floor offers a separate retail such as Kenzo, at a fraction of the and a shock-absorbing cushioned ES experience – fine bone porcelain, price in Australia. The men’s shoe rubber sole. OTT W

Chinese tea, cashmere, beautiful department is a must, as is the : SC HY silk haberdashery and furniture. great range of accessories from Moustache P The ground floor houses Sonia Rykiel and Marc Jacobs. 31 , traditional herbs and medicines. Sheung Wan. 2541 1955. HOTOGRA

Shun Kee haberdashery moustachehongkong.com n P

New Fei Optical G/F 122 Nam Cheong Street, Sham MTR: Sheung Wan. g o in Ripple-Cups and the The bespoke suit is a dying art, but

1/F Waitex House, 7-9 Mong Kok Shui Po, Kowloon. 2748 7838. /w

Night Market bowl G Road, Kowloon. 2398 2088. MTR: Sham Shui Po. a new breed of tailor in Aberdeen (above), from Latitude UN in Chai Wan; Paul Smith www.newfei.com.hk Yes, there is a whole suburb that Street has risen to the challenge. G l N menswear at the Seibu MTR: Prince Edward. specialises in buttons, ribbons and Ellis Kreuger (tailor) and his A Department Store (above /h centre) in Kowloon New Fei Optical conducts haberdashery. Row upon row of partner, Alex Daye, will hand-stitch TH free eye-testing and promises to coloured ribbons are on display, a suit from best cloth and line it UL SMI

hand-deliver prescription glasses with reels resembling exotic with your choice of Japanese  pA

104 QANTAS september 2013 specialist area. Look hard enough online and discover Sonia Rykiel, Kenzo, Harbour City Mall; Kapok gateway Missoni, Reporter and the odd in Sheung Wan (right) vintage Lanvin piece. More bargains to the are to be found in the homewares orient and kitchen department, which For more tips on visiting silk, edged in contrasting silk bias. compact leathergoods and Hong Kong, see our stocks Alessi, Bialetti and beautiful A two-piece suit costs $HK10,000 timepieces. Holm’s Gram destination guide at qantas. Japanese glass sake pots and drink ($1500). Trousers have side tabs shoes are a cross between a com/travelinsider tumblers. Plus, ingenious Japanese and the inside cuffs are lined in sneaker and a shoe, with each kitchen gadgetry – from apple soft suede so you never wear the piece named after its weight corers to Hello Kitty trivets. trouser leg out. Buttons come in in grams. Meanwhile, Ericsson’s figurines spilling off tables and bone, horn or “exotic”. They also Void watches are architectural in onto the street. Choose from Latitude have a great range of handmade form, inspired by a Scandinavian large Chairman Mao busts through Unit 16b, Man Foong Industrial accessories: shoes, handkerchiefs design aesthetic and made from to Red Guards, dancers and Building, 7 Cheung Lee Street, and leather luggage made in materials such as brass, copper soldiers in eye-popping glazes. Chai Wan. 2480 1182. collaboration with Stiibu, an Italian and steel. Located off Hollywood Pick one, bargain with owner Hung latitude22n.com MTR: Chai Wan. luxury brand. Moustache also Road, just past the coffin shops, Leong, who enjoys a good barter. Julie Progin and Jesse McLin make publishes its own guide to Hong Squarestreet is particularly worth Once a deal is struck, goods are exquisite contemporary porcelain, Kong (Edition 3), while its blog a visit on the last Friday of each packaged in a traditional Chinese working with craftspeople from (jadaye.wordpress.com) has month when they throw a block silk box and wrapped in twine. Jingdezhen province to reinterpret invaluable insights into Hollywood party with free beer. beautiful homewares in a modern N

Road and surrounds. Wing On context. To visit the work studio TO Hang Lung Trading Co Department Store it’s best to call in advance. Latitude ES

Squarestreet 24/G Upper , 211 , Sheung Wan. products are also available at OTT W

G/F 15 Square Street, Sheung Wan. 2851 9318. 2852 1888. wingonet.com/posts/ Kapok (ka-pok.com), bFelix (www. : SC HY Sheung Wan. 2362 1086. MTR: Sheung Wan. stores/lang:eng bfelix.com) and The Night Market P www.squarestreet.se Walk along Hollywood Road and MTR: Sheung Wan. (thenightmarket.com.hk). c

MTR: Sheung Wan. take a detour near the Man Mo A department store for handbags, HOTOGRA For airfares and holiday

The proprietors of this boutique Temple for a fossick on Cat Street homewares, womenswear and ty P packages to Hong Kong call are two Swedish designers, David (aka Upper Lascar Row). Halfway menswear at honest prices. This r ci

Qantas Holidays on 1300 735 u o Ericsson and Alexis Holm, who down on the left are hundreds of is a concession-style set-up where 542 or visit qantas.com/ b

specialise in urban footwear, porcelain revolutionary-style a staff member is designated to a holidaysaustralianway har

106 QANTAS september 2013