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Botswana-Namibia-2-Book 1.Indb © Lonely Planet 78 Gaborone GABORONE GABORONE Botswana’s small capital often doesn’t get a lot of love from its own residents, let alone tourists. Ask a Motswana who was born and raised in ‘Gabs’ where they’re from, and they may well tell you the name of a family village or cattle post they’ve never seen. With that kind of civic boosterism, it’s small wonder most travellers treat Gaborone as a waypoint and little more. And let’s be fair: you probably came to Botswana for the wildlife, not the nightlife. But nightlife is here in Gaborone, as well as, y’know, the pulse of the Botswanan nation. The capital may be a village that has grown too large, but it is the place – and this place exists everywhere in Africa – where a farmer moves to make his fortune, students train to lead their nation and the official course of the country is determined. A local Motswana may not see Gaborone as a traditional family ‘home’. But she does see it as the place where her future, and that of her nation, is forged. A relatively large expat scene, the upper crust of Batswana society and a surprisingly mixed population of black, white, Indian and mixed-race Africans – plus, increasingly, Chinese – makes Gaborone a spicier demographic stew than you might initially expect. Its malls, movies and restaurants are a good distraction from the dust and the delta, should you need one. And if you come here, you’ll see how Gaborone’s identity is continuously being created, much like the nation it governs. HIGHLIGHTS Tracking elephants on the outskirts of the capital at the Mokolodi Nature Reserve ( p92 ) Going on safari without ever leaving the city at the Gaborone Game Reserve ( p81 ) Mochudi Seeing modern African dance or medieval European theatre at Maitisong Cultural Centre (p87 ) cooperative in Oodi Oodi Buying local paintings at the Thapong Visual Arts Centre ( p88 ) Gaborone Game Visiting one of Botswana’s best museums in Gaborone Reserve the mud-walled village of Mochudi ( p89 ) Mokolodi Nature Reserve POPULATION: 186,007 ELEVATION : 900M lonelyplanet.com GABORONE •• History 79 GABORONE GABORONE HISTORY INFORMATION Archaeological evidence suggests that the Bookshops banks of the nearby Notwane River have been Botshalo Books (Game City Mall) Recommended by continuously occupied since at least the mid- expats for its good range of titles. dle Stone Age. However, the first modern set- Botswana Book Centre (the Mall) Sells newspapers tlement, Moshaweng, was established in the and magazines, guidebooks, wildlife guides, coffee-table late 1880s by Chief Gaborone of the Tlokwa books and novels. clan. Early European explorers and mis- Exclusive Books (Riverwalk Mall) This reader- sionaries named the settlement Gaborone’s recommended bookshop has a wide range of literature, Village, which was then inevitably shortened non-fiction and travel books. to ‘Gaborones’ (interestingly enough, the ‘s’ J&B Books (Broadhurst Mall) Located above Woolworths, was not dropped until 1968). this place sells new and second-hand novels in English. In 1895 the South African diamond mag- Kingston’s Bookshop (Broadhurst Mall) Has a huge nate Cecil Rhodes used Gaborone to launch array of novels, postcards, and books and maps about the Jameson Raid, an unsuccessful rebellion Botswana and the region. against the Boers who controlled the gold mines near Johannesburg. Rhodes was forced Emergency to resign his post as prime minister of Cape Ambulance (%997) Colony, and the raid served as the catalyst for Central Police Station (%355 1161; Botswana Rd) the second Boer War (1899–1902). Fire department (%998) In 1897 the railway between South Africa Police (%999) and Rhodesia (now Zimbabwe) passed 4km to the west of the village, and a tiny settle- Internet Access ment known as Gaborone’s Station soon ap- Many hotels are increasingly offering internet peared alongside the railway line. By 1966 access, via either wi-fi or network cables. the greater Gaborone area was home to fewer Aim Internet (Botswana Rd; per hr US$3) Next to the than 4000 inhabitants, though it was selected Cresta President Hotel. as the capital of independent Botswana due to Sakeng Internet Access Point (the Mall; per hr US$3) its proximity to the railway line and its large In the Gaborone Hardware building. water supply. Although urban migration has character- Libraries ised much of Gabs’ recent history, economic Alliance Française (%355 3982; Embassy Dr; turmoil in Zimbabwe has sparked a wave of h2-4.30pm Tue & Thu) illegal immigration to Botswana’s capital. For Botswana National Reference Library (%358 more information on this controversial issue, 0788; 3rd fl, Commerce House, Botswana Rd) Next to see the boxed text, p80 . Debswana House, this is ideal for anyone doing research about Botswana and the region. ORIENTATION British Council (%355 3603; the Mall; hTue-Sun) Gaborone sprawls to the point that outer Gaborone Public Library (%355 3664; Civic Centre, neighbourhoods are called ‘Phases’ and Independence Ave) Opposite the eastern end of the Mall. ‘Extensions’ (romantic, eh?). It lacks a de- University of Botswana (%355 2450; Mobutu Dr) finitive town centre, so many shops, res- Contains plenty of books and periodicals dealing with taurants and offices are located in or near national topics. suburban malls and shopping centres, which US Embassy Library (%355 3982; Embassy Dr; form their own pulsing nodes throughout h2-4.30pm Tue & Thu) town. The Mall – also called the Main Mall – is the business heart of Gaborone and has Medical Services a handful of shops, restaurants, banks and Gaborone Hospital Dental Clinic (%395 3777; internet centres. Almost all government of- Segoditshane Way) Part of the Gaborone Private Hospital. fices, and several embassies, are situated to Gaborone Private Hospital (%300 1999; Segodit- the west of the Mall, in and around State shane Way) For anything serious, head to this reasonably House and Embassy Drs. There are also a modern, but expensive, hospital, opposite Broadhurst Mall. number of shopping malls located outside The best facility in town. the city centre; these are easily accessible by Princess Marina Hospital (%355 3221; Notwane Rd) combi (minibus). Equipped to handle standard medical treatments .
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