Everest Gear List
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Gear Brands List & Lexicon
Gear Brands List & Lexicon Mountain climbing is an equipment intensive activity. Having good equipment in the mountains increases safety and your comfort level and therefore your chance of having a successful climb. Alpine Ascents does not sell equipment nor do we receive any outside incentive to recommend a particular brand name over another. Our recommendations are based on quality, experience and performance with your best interest in mind. This lexicon represents years of in-field knowledge and experience by a multitude of guides, teachers and climbers. We have found that by being well-equipped on climbs and expeditions our climbers are able to succeed in conditions that force other teams back. No matter which trip you are considering you can trust the gear selection has been carefully thought out to every last detail. People new to the sport often find gear purchasing a daunting chore. We recommend you examine our suggested brands closely to assist in your purchasing decisions and consider renting gear whenever possible. Begin preparing for your trip as far in advance as possible so that you may find sale items. As always we highly recommend consulting our staff of experts prior to making major equipment purchases. A Word on Layering One of the most frequently asked questions regarding outdoor equipment relates to clothing, specifically (and most importantly for safety and comfort), proper layering. There are Four basic layers you will need on most of our trips, including our Mount Rainier programs. They are illustrated below: Underwear -
Everest – South Col Route – 8848M the Highest Mountain in the World South Col Route from Nepal
Everest – South Col Route – 8848m The highest mountain in the world South Col Route from Nepal EXPEDITION OVERVIEW Join Adventure Peaks on their twelfth Mt Everest Expedition to the world’s highest mountain at 8848m (29,035ft). Our experience is amongst the best in the world, combined with a very high success rate. An ultimate objective in many climbers’ minds, the allure of the world’s highest summit provides a most compelling and challenging adventure. Where there is a will, we aim to provide a way. Director of Adventure Peaks Dave Pritt, an Everest summiteer, has a decade of experience on Everest and he is supported by Stu Peacock, a regular and very talented high altitude mountaineer who has led successful expeditions to both sides of Everest as well as becoming the first Britt to summit Everest three times on the North Side. The expedition is a professionally-led, non-guided expedition. We say non-guided because our leader and Sherpa team working with you will not be able to protect your every move and you must therefore be prepared to move between camps unsupervised. You will have an experienced leader who has previous experience of climbing at extreme high altitude together with the support of our very experienced Sherpa team, thus increasing your chance of success. Participation Statement Adventure Peaks recognises that climbing, hill walking and mountaineering are activities with a danger of personal injury or death. Participants in these activities should be aware of and accept these risks and be responsible for their own actions and involvement. Adventure Travel – Accuracy of Itinerary Although it is our intention to operate this itinerary as printed, it may be necessary to make some changes as a result of flight schedules, climatic conditions, limitations of infrastructure or other operational factors. -
Threading the Needle Skiing Lhotse's Dream Line
AAC Publications Threading the Needle Skiing Lhotse's Dream Line ON SEPTEMBER 30, at about 2 p.m., Jim Morrison and I pulled off our overboots, clicked into our ski bindings, and laboriously buckled our boots. Our oxygen masks were off, making every action at 27,940 feet, on the summit of Lhotse, extremely slow and difficult. I reached for my backpack, so much lighter now that my skis were on my feet, and swung it over my right shoulder, then slowly buckled the waist and chest straps. I slid my oxygen mask back over my face, stuck my right hand on the summit cornice, and soaked up the view one last time. Exactly four weeks earlier, on August 31, our team of four—Jim and I, along with photographers Dutch Simpson and Nick Kalisz—left the U.S. from various points and convened at the Kathmandu airport. Jim and I went straight from the hotel to the Nepal Ministry of Tourism to register for our expedition, pay garbage fees, meet our liaison officer, and finalize the two necessary permits for Lhotse: one for climbing and one for skiing back down. We took another full day to organize in Kathmandu before heading to the airport to fly into the Khumbu and begin our trek to base camp. Our goal for this expedition was simple: Jim and I wanted to ski the Lhotse Couloir from the summit in as pure a fashion as we could muster. Forming a super-direct narrow line from the upper Lhotse Face to the summit, the couloir was a dream line for skiing and the complete descent had been attempted several times. -
Nuptse 7,861M / 25,790Ft
NUPTSE 7,861M / 25,790FT 2022 EXPEDITION TRIP NOTES NUPTSE EXPEDITION TRIP NOTES 2022 EXPEDITION DETAILS Dates: April 9 to May 20, 2022 Duration: 42 days Departure: ex Kathmandu, Nepal Price: US$38,900 per person Crossing ladders in the Khumbu Glacier. Photo: Charley Mace. During the spring season of 2022, Adventure Consultants will operate an expedition to climb Nuptse, a peak just shy of 8,000m that sits adjacent to the world’s highest mountain, Mount Everest, and the world’s fourth highest mountain, Mount Lhotse. Sitting as it does, in the shadows of its more famous partners, Nuptse receives a relatively low number of EXPEDITION OUTLINE ascents. Nuptse’s climbing route follows the same We congregate in Nepal’s capital, Kathmandu, line of ascent as Everest as far as Camp 2, from where we meet for a team briefing, gear checks where we cross the Western Cwm to establish a and last-minute purchases before flying by fixed Camp 3 on Nuptse. From that position, we ascend wing into Lukla Airport in the Khumbu Valley. We directly up the steep North East Face and into trek the delightful approach through the Sherpa Nuptse’s summit. The terrain involves hard ice, homelands via the Khumbu Valley Along the way, sometimes weaving through rocky areas and later we enjoy Sherpa hospitality in modern lodges with lower angled snow slopes. good food, all the while being impressed by the spectacular scenery of the incredible peaks of the The Nuptse climb will be operated alongside the lower Khumbu. Adventure Consultants Everest Expedition and therefore will enjoy the associated infrastructure We trek over the Kongma La (5,535m/18,159ft), a and legendary Base Camp support. -
Alpine Notes
320 ALPINE NOTES ALPINE NOTES (Compiled by D. F. 0. Dangar) PERSONAL. M. Armand Charlet, Herr Albert Eggler, and Mr. C. F. Meade have been elected Honorary Members of the Alpine Club. M. Charlet has recently retired after forty-seven years climbing as a , guide; in the course of his career he made nearly 3,ooo expeditions in the Alps, ninety-nine of them since becoming a grandfather! Mter twenty years' service he is not standing again for election as Mayor of Argentiere. Herr Albert Eggler is President of the Swiss Alpine Club and was leader of the successful Swiss Mount Everest expedition of I956. Mr. C. F. Meade is known for his Himalayan travels and particularly for his attempts on Kamet; to him is due the credit for discovering the only practicable route up the mountain and he was unlucky not to have reached the summit. In the Alps he made many expeditions including the first descent of the North-east an~te of the J ungfrau with Ulrich and Heinrich Fuhrer in I 903 eight years before the first ascent of the ridge. We congratulate Mr. A. E. Gunther on having been elected an Hono rary Member of the Club Andino Venenolano de Merida. ONE HuNDRED YEARS AGo. Although the first ascent of the Matter horn overshadowed all other achievements in I 86 5, several notable ascents were made in the course of the summer. A. W. Moore and Horace Walker broke away from contemporary practice by carrying out an extensive tour with only one guide, Jakob Anderegg. -
Contents Volume 36, June 2017
THE HIMALAYAN CLUB E-LETTER VOLUME 36 Contents Volume 36, June 2017 Ninety Years of The Himalayan Club – Celebrations and New Beginnings 4 The Himalayan Club Logo for the 90th Year Celebrations 4 An Overwhelming Annual Seminar 4 Launch of Commemorative Himalayan Journal Issue 7 Kekoo Naoroji Book Award 8 Jagdish Nanavati Award for Excellence in Mountaineering 8 Jagdish Nanavati Garud Medal 8 Annual Dinner 9 Banff Film Festival 10 Arun Samant Memorial Lecture 10 Visit to Dharamsala 10 A short Sojourn with the Himalayan Club 17 New Beginnings with the Digital Age 18 Activities of the Delhi Section 18 Climbs and Explorations 19 Tibet 19 Exploration of Southern Tibet 19 International team climbs in Genyen massif, Sichuan - Mt. Hutsa & Peak 5912m 20 Small Australian-Chinese team explores new ground in Tibet 23 Tibet’s Jang Tsang Go climbed 27 South Face of Shisha Pangma in 13 hours 28 Sikkim and Nepal Himalaya 28 Kangchenjunga Skyline Project 28 New Catalan climbs in Nepal 29 Three new routes in Nepal’s Rolwaling Valley 30 First alpine style ascent of Gimmigela East’s North Face 32 Everest - Hillary Step collapsed 33 Kumaun and Garhwal Himalaya 33 Direct route up Thalay Sagar North Face(6904m) 33 Himachal Pradesh 35 Shiv Shankar – 6050m – First ascent of the North Buttress 35 2 THE HIMALAYAN CLUB E-LETTER VOLUME 36 Kishtwar Himalaya 37 A new Route on South face of Brammah II 37 News & Views 39 IMF News 39 Augmented Climbing Wall 40 Dirtbag: The Legend of Fred Beckey 41 Piolets d’Or Awards – 2017 41 Obituaries 42 Warwick Deacock 42 Ueli Steck 44 The man to remember 47 Erich Abram, the last Italian K2 mountaineer 48 Office bearers of the Himalayan Club for the year 2017 50 Narration for Cover Page A 90 year Journey. -
Filmography 1963 Through 2017 Greg Macgillivray (Right) with His Friend and Filmmaking Partner of Eleven Years, Jim Freeman in 1976
MacGillivray Freeman Films Filmography 1963 through 2017 Greg MacGillivray (right) with his friend and filmmaking partner of eleven years, Jim Freeman in 1976. The two made their first IMAX Theatre film together, the seminal To Fly!, which premiered at the Smithsonian National Air and Space Museum on July 1, 1976, one day after Jim’s untimely death in a helicopter crash. “Jim and I cared only that a film be beautiful and expressive, not that it make a lot of money. But in the end the films did make a profit because they were unique, which expanded the audience by a factor of five.” —Greg MacGillivray 2 MacGillivray Freeman Films Filmography Greg MacGillivray: Cinema’s First Billion Dollar Box Office Documentarian he billion dollar box office benchmark was never on Greg MacGillivray’s bucket list, in fact he describes being “a little embarrassed about it,” but even the entertainment industry’s trade journal TDaily Variety found the achievement worth a six-page spread late last summer. As the first documentary filmmaker to earn $1 billion in worldwide ticket sales, giant-screen film producer/director Greg MacGillivray joined an elite club—approximately 100 filmmakers—who have attained this level of success. Daily Variety’s Iain Blair writes, “The film business is full of showy sprinters: filmmakers and movies that flash by as they ring up impressive box office numbers, only to leave little of substance in their wake. Then there are the dedicated long-distance specialists, like Greg MacGillivray, whose thought-provoking documentaries —including EVEREST, TO THE ARCTIC, TO FLY! and THE LIVING Sea—play for years, even decades at a time. -
Lhotse – 8516M
Lhotse – 8516m The 4th highest mountain in the world Ascent of Lobuche East to minimise the travel through the Khumbu Icefall Via the Western Cwm, Lhotse Face & Lhotse Couloir EXPEDITION OVERVIEW First climbed by Swiss climber Ernest Reiss in 1956, to this day Lhotse (Tibetan for “South Peak”) has only received just over 600 ascents compared to Everest’s several thousand. Why not join Adventure Peaks in climbing one of the most spectacular and dominating 8000m giants. Director of Adventure Peaks Dave Pritt, an Everest summiteer, has over twenty years’ experience organising and leading high altitude expeditions, including 8000m peaks. He is supported by Stu Peacock, a regular and very talented high altitude mountaineer who has climbed Broad Peak, has led successful expeditions to Cho Oyu and to both sides of Everest as well as becoming the first Britt to summit Everest three times on the North Side. The expedition is a professionally-led, non-guided expedition. We say non-guided because our leader and Sherpa team working with you will not be able to protect your every move and you must therefore be prepared to move between camps unsupervised. You will have an experienced leader who has previous experience of climbing at extreme high altitude together with the support of our very experienced Sherpa team, thus increasing your chance of success. Participation Statement Adventure Peaks recognises that climbing, hill walking and mountaineering are activities with a danger of personal injury or death. Participants in these activities should be aware of and accept these risks and be responsible for their own actions and involvement. -
New Yorker Magazine
ANNALS OF ADVENTURE THE MANIC MOUNTAIN Ueli Steck and the clash on Everest. BY NICK PAUMGARTEN TH RIFFI G AN H NAT JO 46 THE NEW YO R K E R , J U N E 3 , 2 0 1 3 TNY—2013_06_03—PAGE 46—133SC.—LIVE ART R23602—EXTREMELY CRITICAL PHOTOGRAPH TO BE WATCHED THROUGHOUT THE ENTIRE PRESS RUN 4C eli Steck’s closest brush with death, many of whom work as porters and guides April 27th was the day that a team of or at least the time he thought it like- for the commercial expeditions on Ever- Sherpas were installing the fixed rope. It liestU that he was about to die, came not est. This was on the first day that the is an essential and difficult job, involving when he plummeted seven hundred feet weather cleared for a summit push. The heavy gear and extreme working condi- down the south face of Annapurna, or next day, the crowds went up—hundreds tions on an ice cliff riddled with crevasses. spidered up the Eiger’s fearsome North of aspirants, most of them clients of com- The day before, the Sherpas, with help Face alone and without ropes in under mercial companies, and their Sherpas— from three Western guides, had nearly three hours, or slipped on wet granite and, amid the traffic jam approaching the completed the job but came to an untra- while free-climbing the Golden Gate summit, four climbers died, of exposure versable crevasse, which had forced them route of El Capitan with his wife, on their and cerebral edema. -
40Ar/39Ar Age Constraints on Deformation and Metamorphism in the Maine Central Thrust Zone and Tibetan
TECTONICS, VOL. 8, NO. 4, PAGES 865-880, AUGUST 1989 40Ar/39Ar AGE CONSTRAINTSON DEFORMATION AND METANDRPHISM IN THE MAIN CENTRAL THRUST ZONE AND TIBETAN SLAB, EASTERN NEPAL HIMALAYA Mary S. Hubbard1 Department of Earth, Atmospheric and Planetary Sciences, Massachusetts Institute of Technology, Cambridge T. Mark Harrison Department of Geological Sciences, State University of New York at Albany Abstract. In eastern Nepal, structural 6.4+0.8 Ma (Tc=225ñ20ø C). An adjacent and petrologic observations suggest that gneiss yields a 9.1ñ0.2 Ma biotite movement on the Main Central Thrust (MCT), isochron and a K-feldspar minimum age of the development of an inverted metamorphic 3.6_+0.2 Ma (Tc=210-+50øC). In the upper sequence, and leucogranite plutonism were Tibetan Slab, samples collected >200 m genetically related. Samples from across from visible intrusives yield a biotite the MCT zone and its hanging wall, the isochron age of 20.2!0.2 Ma and a complex Tibetan Slab, were collected from four hornblende age spectrum suggestive of locations in the Everest region for excess argon. At the fourth location an 40Ar/39Ar studies: (1) the MCT zone, (2) augen gneiss, a pegmatite, and a the lower Tibetan Slab, (3) the upper tourmaline-bearing leucogranite, all in Tibetan Slab away from intrusive rocks, mutual contact, yield indistinguishable and (4) the upper Tibetan Slab adjacent to mineral ages. The average biotite and and including leucogranitic material. muscovite isochron ages for these samples Within the MCT zone, muscovite and are 17.0_+1.4 and 16.6ñ0.2 Ma, hornblende yield cooling ages of 12.0-+0.2 respectively. -
Lesson 3: Sea Floor to Summit
Everest Education Expedition Curriculum Lesson 3: Sea Floor To Summit Created by Montana State University Extended University and Montana NSF EPSCoR http://www.montana.edu/everest Lesson Overview: Explore the rocks that lie beneath Mount Everest’s summit. Simulate the formation of the Himalayan Mountains and Mount Everest while uncovering the dynamic processes of plate tectonics. Study the rocky layers that Dr. David Lageson researched on Mount Everest and investigate the geologic layers that sit below each climber’s crampons (ice cleats). Discover how the ancient sea floor now sits on this extreme summit and ponder whether Mount Everest really is the tallest mountain on earth. Objectives: Students will be able to: 1. Explain how the Himalayan Mountains formed. 2. Identify the rock layers of Mount Everest. 3. Explain the different ways each of the world’s four “tallest” mountains are measured. Vocabulary: fault - a crack with offset in the Earth's crust folding - when rocks or rock layers that were once flat are bent or curved gneiss (nice) - a high-grade metamorphic rock formed from preexisting granite or sedimentary rock (high grade metamorphism changes the rock so completely that the source rock often cannot be readily identified) Read more: http://www.answers.com/topic/metamorphism#ixzz1oxKeAZaE granite - an igneous rock that forms from the slow crystallization of silica-rich magma below Earth’s surface limestone - a sedimentary rock composed mostly of calcium carbonate formed in clear, warm, shallow marine waters marble - a metamorphic -
An Unforgettable Face
12 An unforgettable face The 27th of September dawned cold and clear at camp one. More importantly, it was not windy. The previous day had been similarly fine but the climbers had decided to stay put. They did not want to waste precious energy to climb to camp two only to be fooled by another brief break in the post-monsoon winds; what they desperately needed was a spell of fine, calm weather lasting several days. A mixture of excitement and determination pervaded the group as they marched up the neve of the Rongbuk Glacier towards the base of the face and the start of the fixed ropes. The forced rest at camp one had allowed Hall enough time to recover from his respiratory complaint and he was now moving strongly. His return to the team was a great morale booster, as his experience and skill would be essential to such a small, vulnerable team high on Everest. At camp two, the climbers settled in to the now familiar snow cave for a night’s rest before tackling White Limbo and launching themselves into the unknown of the Great Couloir the next day. Yet again, however, their hopes were dashed by the weather. During the night, the wind rose and by morning it was howling across the North Face of Everest. To attempt to climb high on the mountain in such weather would be suicidal. Again the climbers were forced into a waiting game, this time in the snow cave at camp two. There was a great reluctance to retreat back to camp one now, as there was a limit to how many trips the weakening climbers could make up and down before they dissipated too much energy.