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Imported Second-Hand Clothes in South Korea: an Examination of Guje Clothing As an Autonomous Consumer Practice

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Imported Second-Hand Clothes in South Korea: an Examination of Guje Clothing As an Autonomous Consumer Practice Imported Second-Hand Clothes in South Korea: An Examination of Guje Clothing as an Autonomous Consumer Practice by Jiyeon Hong (MA, BA) Thesis submitted to the Edinburgh College of Art in fulfilment of the requirements of the Degree of Doctor of Philosophy 2009 © Jiyeon Hong November 2009 Abstract This thesis considers issues of individual‟s „style competence‟ within global order. Guje (imported second-hand garments) fashion in South Korea is an ideal case study from which to examine consumer autonomy in the adoption of this Western vintage fashion trend since the 1990s. The importance of guje clothing lies in the local-cultural discrimination between the „imported‟ and the local second-hand garments; guje clothes have been considered far more fashionable than the locally generated used garments. Consequently, in guje and vintage markets, the origin bears a great significance, such as German or American yasahng, or Japanese(-import) jeans. While the foreign origin of these garments is an emblem of being stylish, the images of foreign cities are mostly presented as ideal places associated with romanticism and nostalgia. Such fashion practice reflects South Koreans‟ „rose- tinted‟ view of foreign countries and material culture. Furthermore, nostalgic memories are imagined and constructed based on Western fashion history in replacement of South Korea‟s own. More importantly, Japan plays a key role as a cultural and material mediator in the introduction of Western fashion, from jeans to luxury goods, to South Korea. This ethnographic research concludes that guje fashion cannot be regarded as a fully autonomous consumer practice, but rather as symptomatic of global homogeneity, which reveals the cultural and material impact of both Americanisation and Japanisation dominant in South Korea. Acknowledgements I would like to take this opportunity to thank to all those who made this thesis possible. I owe my deepest gratitude to my supervisor, Dr. Juliette MacDonald for her encouragement and understanding from the beginning. Without her devoted intellectual support, I would not have been able to develop my research as it is now. I am also very grateful to my second supervisor Dr. Hilary Carlisle, who so positively led me with her academic and personal guidance. I also thank to Dr. Sophia Lycouris and Elaine Dickson. They provided me their most helpful administrative assistance in numerous ways. I am indebted to my friends. I wish to thank Prof. Lee and his lovely daughter Sangeun for their lasting friendship. Sungeun, Hyejoo, Mikyung, Yonghea, Youngsook, Silvia, Deborah, Minha, Jihye, Jungyang and Katie have been very supportive. I also wish to thank Edwin and his wife Petra who have been an enourmous inspiration since my study in the Netherlands. I am grateful to my younger brother Sangbum who take care of my parents during my continuous absence abroad. I should also like to thank my parents and my only aunt Myunghee. Lastly, I would like to express my special affection for my beloved dog Misca. He has been always next to me over the past thirteen years, accompanying me on various places in Europe. Both my thesis and life would be unimaginable without his companionship. The various scholarships from Edinburgh College of Art which financially supported my PhD study are gratefully acknowledged. Contents 1. Introduction 1 Structure of the Thesis 2. Literature Review: Fashion Culture and Second-Hand Clothes 10 Consumption in a Global Society Western accounts on the consumption of second-hand clothes (in the case of the United Kingdom) A question of nostalgia and authenticity in Western vintage fashion Consumption of the West‟s second-hand clothes in non-Western worlds 3. Ethnographic Methodology and Semiotics 37 Research Scope Geographical Sites of the Research Second-hand Clothing Shops in South Korea Qualitative Interviewing Participant Observation on the street and in on-line community The Use of the Internet in Guje Fashion Consumption Archive Research: Fashion magazines Semiotics and Discourse Analysis 4. Westernisation and Globalisation in Consuming Imported Goods 74 Western perspectives: a global world, neither westernised nor homogenised South Korean perspectives: westernised South Korea in a global world Myth of the Arrival of Miniskirts as a Western Object in South Korea Bean-paste Girl and Jeeyoung‟s Bag, a Social Controversy over the Excessive Consumption of the Western Goods Mimicry and Compulsiveness in Assimilation of Western Fashion 5. The Origin of Guje Fashion and Commodification of Yasahng: Western Military Uniforms and Representation of Male Identity 104 Understanding Guje within the Contemporary Fashion Concepts The origin of guje clothing consumption: Etymological understanding of guje as relief goods Historical accounts of guje and the introduction of American Military Uniforms in the wake of the U.S. Occupation in the mid-1940s Dyed Military Garments: an Everyday Dress Practice of Guje Poom Fashion in the 1950s Popularity of military look and government control „Yasahng‟: A Korean definition of military field jackets Fashionable American Yasahng as contemporary men‟s dress practice Yasahng fashion and understanding Korean sensibility towards the military system and culture Commodification of unwearying American popular culture and diversification of yasahng 6. Formation of Taste in Second-hand(-style) Jeans and the Influence of Nippon- ppil in Guje Market: Recommodification of the Authentic Japanese and the Counterfeit Thai “Levi‟s Coke” Jeans 150 Styles of fashionable Guje /vintage jeans in South Korea Brief historical accounts of jeans and youth hippie culture since WWII Contemporary guje/ vintage jeans: Levis‟s 501 and “Big-E” Circulation of Levi‟s 501 “Big E” imported from Japan into Guje Market A Dispute about the Authenticity of Levi‟s Coke Jeans The Origin of Coca-Cola jeans in Japan and introduction of Japanese Levi‟s Coke jeans in guje market in South Korea Recommodification of “Big E” as a symbol of Thai-imitation of Levi‟s Coke jeans Recommodification of Authenticity: original American jeans into the authentic Japanese and the fake Thai The influence of Japanese culture products in Korean guje market Dissemination of Fashion Styles in Japanese Magazines Individuality, Advancement and Exoticism in Nippon (Fashion) Appeal 7. Vintage Fashion Fever and the Embodiment of “Granny Look”: Historical and Geographical imagination of nostalgia from a “Fabricated Era” 200 Popularisation of „vintage‟ fashion styles in South Korea Commercialisation of imagined nostalgia in 90s retro fashion practice in South Korea “Granny Look”: un-nostalgic, Western-oriented vintage fashion practice in South Korea in the 2000s A site of exoticism/mimicry: London, a fantasised Western city as a reservoir of vintage fashion Rummaging through the world, not in the family‟s wardrobe 8. Conclusion: Cultural and Material Flows of Guje/ Vintage Fashion from the West and Japan to South Korea 237 Glossary 243 Appendix: Interview photographs and transcripts in Korean Part I: Extra photographs from the fieldwork in South Korea 247 1) Guje consumers on the street (2006) 248 2) Guje sections in Dongdaemun Market (2006) 253 3) Military clothes stalls in Namdaemun Market (2007) 263 4) Military clothes shops in Itaewon (2007) 267 5) Luxury consignment shops in Apgujeong-dong (2006) 270 6) Magazine stands (2007) 272 Part II: Interview transcripts 275 Interview 1 (2006, South Korea) 276 Interview 2 (2006, South Korea) 277 Interview 3 (2006, South Korea) 278 Interview 4 (2006, South Korea) 279 Interview 5 (2006, South Korea) 280 Interview 6 (2006, South Korea) 282 Interview 7 (2006, South Korea) 286 Interview 8 (2006, South Korea) 289 Interview 9 (2006, South Korea) 290 Interview 10 (2006, South Korea) 292 Interview 11 (2006, South Korea) 293 Interview 12 (2006, South Korea) 295 Interview 13 (2006, South Korea) 297 Interview 14 (2006, South Korea) 299 Interview 15 (2006, South Korea) 301 Interview 16 (2006, South Korea) 303 Interview 17 (2006, South Korea) 306 Interview 18 (2006, South Korea) 307 Interview 19 (2006, UK) 311 Interview 20 (2007, UK) 312 Interview 21 (2007, UK) 323 Interview 22 (2007, UK) 337 Interview 23 (2007, South Korea) 354 Interview 24 (2007, South Korea) 362 Interview 25 (2007, South Korea) 363 Bibliography 367 Introduction 1. Introduction The main topic of this research is the culture of guje (imported second-hand) clothes consumption in South Korea. My primary academic interest lies broadly in the ways in which imported goods and cultural styles have been assimilated, over the course of globalisation and Westernisation, into current South Korean society. Intrinsic to these overwhelmingly widespread material and cultural flows, are imported (both second-hand and luxury) goods, the significance of which has grown immensely towards the end of the twentieth century, so much so that they have played an important role in the formation of social and individual identity among South Korean consumers. The impact of globalisation and Westernisation has been omnipresent in South Korean fashion consumption for some time. Amid this social background, vintage fashion was brought to South Korea in the 1990s. However, prior to the advent of this global fashion trend, South Korea‟s imported second-hand clothes market has had a comparatively long history. Wearing imported second-hand clothes, is known as guje style. The nearly extinct guje clothing market has now become notably popular among certain types of young consumers since the 1990s.
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