Tokyo's Most Unusual Eateries

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Jul 24-Aug 6, 2015 Japan’s Nº1 English Magazine www.metropolisjapan.com 無料 PRICELESS THE KOOK OFF TOKYO’S MOST UNUSUAL EATERIES

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There was a strange feeling around the Metropolis office as we for certain is that we have fun and unusual content for you as we EDITOR’S prepared this issue, perhaps due to the ghosts, birds, and ninjas get an inside look at Robot Restaurant, whip up some wasabi LETTER that play a role in our feature on unusual restaurants. Or it may gelato, and find out what it’s like to eat alone in Tokyo. And since have been the fashions inspired by Godzilla and Ultraman. Or a written words alone are not enough, we’ve also launched a new sudden interest in Mubita. It’s hard to tell. But what we do know podcast, which you can find out more about on page 13. Photo by Mari Obi Photo by Samuel Thomas 06 10 14

Freaky Feasts: Tokyo's strangest dining experiences. Culinary Hat Trick: Three Asian cuisines under one roof. Leisure Suit Lizard: Godzilla inspires fashion.

Cover design & photo illustration: Kohji Shiiki.

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IN FOCUS Three little buddhas praying in Hasedera temple gardens, Kamakura, by Halie Purdy

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CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER Neil Butler EDITORIAL Christopher Bryan Jones (Editor-In-Chief) Martin Leroux (Editor) Momoko Mochizuki (editorial assistant) Tim Young (Proofreader) Sean Horgan (Editorial Intern) CONTRIBUTING EDITORS Dan Grunebaum (Entertainment) Don Morton (Movies) C.B. Liddell (Arts) Samuel Thomas (Fashion) DESIGN Kohji Shiiki (Art Director) Davi Azevedo (Graphic Designer) Erin Hope (Design Intern) WEB Minh Douangprachanh (Digital Manager) PRODUCTION Helen Langford (Production Assistant) 8F Nishi-Azabu Sonic Bldg, 3-2-12 Nishi-Azabu, ADVERTISING Akane Ochi, Karl Nakashima, Niki Kaihara (Sales Managers) Yo Takahashi (Sales Executive) Ai Hosokawa, Nina Ozawa Minato-ku, Tokyo 106-0031 Tel 03-4588-2277 (Sales Assistants) Keiko Kanada (Sales Intern) ADMINISTRATION/ACCOUNTING Keiko Adachi (Administration Manager) Fax 03-4588-2278 • www.metropolisjapan.com Jason Taylor (Adminstration/Classifieds) Xi Chen and Mari Obi (Admin Interns) IT Guilhem Malfre (IT/Web Developer)

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03 upfront 123RF

LINGOIST WHERE TO? Trying new restaurants is always fun—not only because you get to try new food, but also because you can expand your list of places to eat—whether alone, with friends and co-workers, or to impress guests. If you find yourself in an unfamiliar area while on a new culinary quest and need help finding your way, follow our example!

JP Sumimasen. Tori no Iru Café wa doko desuka? EN Excuse me. Where is Tori no Iru Café?

JP Kono michi wo massugu itte migi ni magareba arimasu. EN Keep walking on this road and take a right.

JP Arigatō gozaimasu! EN Thank you!

JP Dō itashimashite. EN You’re welcome.

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04 TO-DO LIST water parks Tokyo Summerland Toshimaen Yomiuri Land Enjoy different themed pools, including a If you’re a water slide lover, check out the Great for families! Kids will love the Anpanman 650-meter-long lazy river called “Great Journey,” “Hydropolis” area with nine fun water slides pool, which features chracters from the popular TOP water rides, and an amusement park area. including the “Aqua Tube Slider,” “Giant Slider,” children’s show. Open 10am-7pm on weekdays, Open 9am-6pm on weekdays, 9am-8pm on and “River Run Slider.” Open 9am-6pm. 9am-7pm on weekends during Aug. ¥1,900- weekends until Jul 31. Open daily 9am-9pm ¥2,000-4,000. 3-25-1 Kōyama, Nerima-ku. 2,900. 4015-1 Yanokuchi, Inagi-shi. Yomiuri during Aug. ¥1,800-3,500. 600 Kamiyotsugi, Toshimaen. Tel: 03-3990-8800. Land. 5-10 min by bus from station. Tel: Akiruno-shi. Hachiōji. 30 mins by bus from www.toshimaen.co.jp 044-966-1111. www.yomiuriland.com/english station. Tel: 042-558-6511. 3 www.summerland.co.jp/english

AUG 25-27 EDITOR’S PICK SUKIYAKI TOKYO Japan’s finest world music festival sets up residence in Tokyo for three days in August. A branch of the main Sukiyaki Meets The World festival in Toyama, this year’s Tokyo installment sees leading artists from Africa and Latin America gracing the stage of the WWW venue. Among the performers slated to appear are bell-voiced Senegalese bandleader Cheikh Lo, and effervescent singer- songwriter Tigana Santana from Brazil. Dan Grunebaum Aug 25-26, 7:30pm, ¥5,500 (adv)/ ¥6,000 (door)/ ¥9,500 (two day ticket). JUL 31-AUG 1 WWW. Shibuya. Tel: 03-5458- EBISU EKIMAE BON ODORI 7685. Aug 27, 7:30pm. ¥3,500 (with reservation)/ ¥4,000 (door). Aoyama Join in Ebisu’s bon odori, a dance that is a staple of Japan’s summer matsuri Moon Romantic. Gaienmae. Tel: season. Jul 31-Aug 1, 6-9:30pm, free. Ebisu Station West Exit. Ebisu. 03-5474-8137. www.sukiyakitokyo.com ©チームラボ, 2015, インタラクティブデジタルインスタレーション, 音楽: 高橋英明 AUG 8-9 ALL STUDENT ART FESTIVAL GAKUTEN Featuring paintings, fashion, live music, and more unique forms of self-expression by students of all ages. Aug 8-9, 11am-7pm, ¥800 (adv)/ ¥1,000 (door). Tokyo Big Sight West Hall 2. Kokusai-Tenjijo. Tel: 03-3479-1827. www.gakuten.jp/en

©Musée des Beaux-Arts - Mairie de Bordeaux. Cliché L. Gauthier Resonating Spheres and Night Fish UNTIL SEP 23 BORDEAUX, PORT UNTIL DEC 25 DE LA LUNE NIGHT WONDER AQUARIUM Though mainly known for wine, the Explore an illuminated Enoshima Aquarium in the evening, southwestern French port town of transformed into an art space with digital art created by teamLab, a Bordeaux was, at its 18th-century group of “ultra-technologists.” Until Dec 25, 5-8pm, ¥600-2,100. peak, one of the continent’s most Enoshima Aquarium. Katase-Enoshima. Tel: 0466-29-9960. refined cities. This show examines www.enosui-wonderaquarium2015.com Bordeaux’s past through the oeuvre of artists such as Delacroix, ウジェーヌ・ドラクロワ《ライオン狩り》 1854-55年 Redon, and Goya, as well as key 175×360cm ボルドー美術館 historical materials like the famous Venus with a Horn, and various decorative items that tell the tales of Bordeaux citizens. Until Sep JUL 25-AUG 21 23, 9:30am-5:30pm (until 8pm on CINE ROCK FESTIVAL Fri). Closed Mon. ¥800-1,600. The National Museum of Western Art. Get the music festival experience in the theater this summer, with music Ueno. Tel: 03-5777-8600. www. documentaries and screenings of concerts by Aerosmith, Björk, Queen, and tbs.co.jp/bordeaux2015 more. Jul 25-Aug 21, various times, ¥1,800-2,500 depending on screening. Marunouchi Picadilly 3. Yurakucho or Ginza. Tel: 03-3201-2881. www.cinerockfes.com

05 feature

UNUSUALUNUSUAL RESTAURANTSRESTAURANTS

HAUNTED RESTAURANT even order as many of Haunted’s original cock- Hachioji tails as you want. These fun cocktails come served in syringes, test tubes, and beakers, f spooky is your thing, take a trip to Haunt- making the drinking experience that much ed Restaurant, a ghost-themed restaurant more exciting. The creatively-named “Saiketsu located just three minutes from JR Hachio- Shokoratie” (“Blood-gathering Chocolatier”) I ji Station. The premise is that you’re visit- and “Kansen Deadwalker” (“Infectious Dead- ing a haunted mansion inhabited with friendly walker”) cocktails (¥750) come with a Godiva ghosts who love to entertain guests—so be chocolate cocktail and berry cocktail in syring- prepared to expect the unexpected. es, which you must then pour onto a beaker of The restaurant offers several set meal and marshmallows and cotton candy, respectively. drink plans, making it an ideal venue for fun Food options include french fries, fried get-togethers with friends. The “Phantom chicken, pasta, beef stew, and more dishes that Manor Course” (¥2,800) comes with an all- can be shared by many. you-can-eat menu of 50 dishes, desserts, and As the unbearably hot Japanese summer all-you-can-drink non-alcoholic beverages, and begins, Haunted Restaurant might be the “Alice in a Magical Land”, Shinjuku the “Nightmare Course” (¥2,300) with 30 all- perfect place to cool down in an entertaining, you-can-eat dishes, one dessert, and all-you- shiver-inducing atmosphere. can-drink non-alcoholic beverages. 6-7F Daigo Central Bldg., 12-15 Azuma-cho, There’s also an alcoholic all-you-can-drink Hachioji. Tel: 042-631-5033. Hachioji. www. option (¥1,200), and for an extra ¥300, you can lock-up.jp/haunted

06 ALICE’S FANTASY TORI NO IRU CAFÉ RESTAURANT Kiba, Asakusa Ginza, Ikebukuro, Kabukicho, Shibuya, Shinjuku t’s usually considered rude to stare at someone while they eat, but does the t one point or another, we’ve all prob- same thing apply to birds? ably read or seen Alice in Wonderland. I Tori no Iru Café is an avian-themed Lewis Carroll’s weird and quirky story, café that’s home to a large variety of birds from A which Disney has adapted into both an around the world. In Japanese, the name liter- animated musical and a live-action film, has ally translates to “a café where there are birds.” captured the imaginations of many children According to their website, Tori no Iru Café has around the world. But who would’ve ever 30 different types of exotic birds, including par- thought that one day, they would be able to rots, parakeets, owls, and hawks. have dinner with Alice and her friends—at least NINJA AKASAKA Most of the birds inside the café aren’t free outside of Disneyland? Akasaka to fly around, but there is a parrot room where Alice’s Fantasy Restaurant, as the name customers can go in and interact with some of suggests, is a small chain of Alice in Won- ooks like the ninja business isn’t doing so the birds. It costs ¥1,500 per hour, and those derland-themed eateries with five locations well—they’re part-timing as waiters. Ninja who want to stay longer can do so for an ad- around Tokyo—along with one in Osaka and Akasaka is the only restaurant where the ditional ¥300 per 15 minutes. As a sanitary pre- another in Nagoya—each with its own Alice- L feudal mercenaries will serve guests food. caution for both the customers and the birds, inspired twist. This shogun-themed restaurant was designed to everyone must apply hand sanitizer before in- The restaurants are decorated with extrava- resemble a Japanese castle, and ninjas guide teracting with the feathered staff. For protec- gant chandeliers, bright colors, giant playing diners through small corridors, narrow passage- tion from bird bombers, rain ponchos are also cards, hearts, and a variety of artwork from the ways, waterfalls, bridges, and secret doorways a must before entering. film. Waitresses dressed as Alice, as well as to show them to their tables. The dimly-lit hall- While Tori no Iru Café encourages its pa- waiters in tuxedos, will guide the visitor through ways create an eerie ambience, making patrons trons to enjoy their visit, safety is still their a strange world, which in Ginza includes a giant feel like they’re being pursued. number one priority. Guests should watch their teacup and large book-shaped doors. When seated, make sure to keep both eyes step, not bring valuable jewelry into the room With prices ranging from ¥2,500 to ¥4,500, open. Ninjas will sneak up on guests when they with the birds, and avoid flash photography. the restaurant won’t leave a huge dent in one’s least expect it, to take orders, check up, or to When interacting with the birds of prey, it is wallet, and it’s well worth the money for those hand over the check. It’s definitely not the type dangerous and strictly forbidden to poke the who love the story. of place to dine and dash, except for those who birds around their face. Moreover, it’s impor- The menus, which come replete with pop- want to be pursued by highly-trained assassins. tant to be gentle with these birds and to slowly up pictures, contain all kinds of interesting Don’t be surprised if ninja magicians per- stroke their back from the neck down. food. Every meal, such as the spaghetti ragù form card and coin tricks during dinner. These Tori no Iru Café has two locations, one resembling the grinny Cheshire, has some bit performances are sure to leave dining com- near Kiba Station in Koto and the other of the theme to it. Many of their cocktails and panions entertained while enjoying their meal. in Taito near Asakusa Station, and it’s a drinks are also based on characters from the The menu, presented in the form of a scroll, great place to go for those on a budget. story, such as the “The Queen contains many peculiar ninja-themed foods Priced between ¥500 and ¥1,100, every- of Hearts,” “The Cards Soldier,” like the shuriken (throwing stars) grissini, the thing on the menu is fairly inexpensive. and “The Cheshire Cat.” ninja-style cream puff, and the ninja-style roast Kiba Branch: Seven Star Mansion 105, 2-6- The part of the story to jump lamb with Korean flavoring. The peculiar dishes 7 Kiba, Koto-ku. Tel: 03-5809-8865. Kiba. into is up to the guest. In Tokyo, are found in the many large courses on offer, Asakusa Branch: Oyama Building B1F, 1-12- the options available are “Alice in including the Shinobi Course (¥6,800), the 8 Asakusa, Taito-ku. Tel: 03-6802-8575. a Labyrinth” in Ginza, “Alice in a Yamato Spirit Course (¥7,000), and the Hanzo Asakusa. www.toricafe.co.jp Fantasy Book” in Shinjuku Kabu- Course (¥10,000). kicho, “Alice in a Magical Land” Ninja Akasaka is well-known by many, espe- in Shinjuku, “Alice in a Dancing cially among foreigners living in Japan. In fact, Land” in Shibuya, and “Alice in 40 percent of their customers are foreign, and an Old Castle” in Ikebukuro. so they also serve different types of food from Due to the popularity of each France, Italy, and China, alongside along their restaurant, the chances of get- Japanese fare. ting a table are improved with a Although a bit pricey, with dinners costing reservation, which can be made anywhere from ¥10,000 to ¥15,000, it’s all online. worth it if for those who want a one-of-a-kind “Alice in a Labyrinth” ninja experience. 5F Sun Building, 8-8-5 Ginza, 1F Akasaka Tokyu Plaza, 2-14-3 Nagata- Chuo-ku. Tel: 03-3574-6980. cho, Chiyoda-ku. Tel: 03-5157-3936. Open Ginza. For other locations, Mon-Sat 5pm-1am, Sun and hols 5pm-11pm. visit www.alice-restaurant.com Akasaka-mitsuke. www.ninjaakasaka.com

07 feature

6-NEN 4-KUMI Shibuya, Shinjuku

atering to those who want to relive their childhoods and simultaneously get absolutely wasted, 6-Nen 4-Kumi (“Sixth C Grade, Group Four”) is a national chain of izakayas that are themed after Japanese elementary schools. While many Tokyo establishments are mere- ly “inspired” by their themes, this quirky bar is wholly dedicated to its motif. The entrance like the food, aren’t anything to write home want to break free from the monotony of family reveals a stack of shoe racks where, in actual about, taste-wise; but it’s all about the novelty restaurants. schools, students would change out of their here. The dining area on the main floor is spacious outdoor shoes and don either sneakers or slip- For the Japan-raised, 6-Nen is a trip down and often lively with chatter and the clinking pers. Nearby, there are stacks of randoseru memory lane. For those that pursued primary of utensils, but privacy can also be had in the (backpacks)—an elementary school neces- education elsewhere, this bar is simply a trip. secluded booths on the semi-dimly-lit second sity—and cute yellow caps, should patrons de- Shinjuku Branch: 9F Shinjuku Square Bld., level. sire a drunken photo op worthy of flagging on 1-16-3 Kabuki-cho, Shinjuku-ku. Tel: 050- Much like the décor, the menu is on the di- Facebook as inappropriate. 5257-2155. Shinjuku. Shibuya Branch: 4F verse side as well, with delicious pizzas, pastas, The staff, dressed as school nurses and P.E. & 5F Assorti Shibuya, 32-12 Udagawa-cho, tacos, and salads; as well as an array of Hungar- and math teachers, guide guests down hall- Shibuya-ku. Tel: 050-5789-6481. Shibuya. ian, Japanese, and French meat dishes—be- ways past drinking rooms, each with their own cause there has to be blood somewhere. vibe: some are classrooms and music rooms; CHRISTON CAFÉ The desserts are where things get creative, others cafeterias and the principal’s office. Ev- Shinjuku with options bearing such names as the “Me- ery room comes with its own paraphernalia, be gami no Ice Brulée” (“The Goddess’ Ice Cream it school supplies, chalkboards, music instru- hinjuku is no stranger to the quirky, the Brulée”), “Tenshi ga Kononda Tiramisu” (“The ments, or toys. In lieu of guest books, the bar is offbeat, and the downright bizarre. From Tiramisu Favored by Angels”), “Shikkoku no equipped with school notebooks for visitors to its eighth-floor base, Christon Café over- Yuwaku” (“Jet-black Temptation”), and “Shu- write comments or draw pictures of clouds and S looks all the madness sprawled through- kufuku—Iyesu no Yakiin” (“Blessing: The Mark sunflowers—or of no-no body parts. out Yasukuni Dori—all the while reinforcing the of Jesus”)—which is a cheesecake shaped as The food selection comprises cafeteria street’s oddities. a cross. Sounds about right. staples and Japanese kid-favorites, such as Located a short stroll from Kabukicho, Christon’s original cocktails are the high- Napolitan spaghetti, omelet rice, and onigiri— Christon Café is a gothic restaurant with light, and appear to all be designed to sate the many of which are served with little flags, in an interior that resembles that of a (highly sweet-toothed. Of these, the Rose & Mix cock- colorful plastic trays and containers. Among glammed-up) cathedral with a touch of Re- tail—which comes garnished with a rosebud the desserts is the “oppai ice,” an ice cream naissance-era Europe. Religious effects and and an LED-lit ice cube—and the Deathscyth served in a balloon with the tip snipped off, symbols fill the space, ranging from statues of Hell—a dark, bloody red—are the only truly making the whole eating process rather sug- saints to crosses hanging from chandeliers; gothic drinks on the list. However, the rest of gestive—though this apparently used to be a which the establishment balances out with the drinks selection is bountiful, offering up common after-school treat. gargoyles, medieval knights, and, curiously, a spirits aplenty. The drinks menu is extensive with over a life-sized Michael Jackson-esque doll parked While Christon Café’s theme is on the ex- hundred offerings, including highballs incor- in the waiting area. travagant side, the vibe is notably relaxed porating “Gari Gari-kun” popsicles, alcohol-in- That Christon occasionally hosts bondage and sets the tone for an evening of min- fused fruit milkshakes, and espresso cocktails. and S&M parties should indicate that it serves gling, romance, or discussing safe words. But the star of the menu is the “Rika no Oben- not as an ode to religion or spirituality, but rath- 8F Oriental Wave Bldg., 5-17-13 Shinjuku, kyo” (“chemistry studies”), a mix-it-yourself set er caters to the gothic and Lolita demographic Shinjuku-ku. Tel: 03-5287-2426. Shinjuku- with fruit liqueurs in test tubes. The drinks, just that’s widespread in Japan. And also those who sanchome or Shinjuku.

08 From the 5th floor on the western edge of Azabu-Juban shopping street, with a nice view from large windows. French cuisine in a small casual setting with a selection of fine wine. Lunch or a petite course as the sunlight shines in or dinner that is served until midnight. We Await Your Arrival At Our Comfortable And Warm Space.

5F 3-11-2 Motoazabu, Minato-ku, Tokyo, Lunchtime - 11:30-14:30 (LO) Tel: 03-6406-0008 | Fax: 03-6434-0093 Dinnertime - 18:00-24:00 (LO) www.le-potauxroses.jp Closed Sunday [email protected]

09 food&drink

Umeboshi (pickled plum) is a popular rice top- Certain food combinations supposedly produce Have you ever looked at a plate of mabo dofu ping that translates surprisingly well to the world totally new flavors. Pouring soy sauce onto cus- and wished you could have it in stick form? Glico of potato chips. But who wants to carry around a tard pudding, for example, makes it taste like sea makes your dreams come true with Mabo Dofu bag of mostly air? Koikeya gets it, and have made urchin. Questionable, but worth a try? Calbee Pretz. Each box contains two pouches of pretzel your snack life easy with the Stick Suppamucho offers a new flavor combination with their soy sticks that are lightly flavored with the popular Slim Bag. Same pucker-inducing flavor as Sup- sauce-, avocado-, and wasabi-flavored chips, Sichuan tofu-and-meat dish. It takes a moment pamucho chips, but delivered in a package that’s which they suggest tastes like ōtoro, or fatty tuna. for the spiciness to ramp up, but the aftertaste will socially acceptable to attach to your mouth while Whether or not this is the case, these chips are leave you reaching for a drink. Part of Pretz’s col- looking upward. Maybe. The sticks are so small, good if you’re looking for a soy sauce-based flavor lection of international flavors, this is an excellent though; how else are you going to eat them? Avail- with a bit of a wasabi kick. Available in conve- snack to pair with a nice beer or ale. Available in able in convenience stores nationwide. nience stores and supermarkets nationwide. convenience stores nationwide.

The interior is filled with crushed herbs and soft, bite-sized shrimps that perfectly complement the crisp exterior. The gapao rice with a soup and salad (¥1,050) is the option for spice lovers, consisting of ground chicken, basil, egg, and rice. The egg yolk offers a cooling respite from the chili peppers sprinkled throughout the dish. If you can’t quite stomach the hotter delicacies, the Vietnamese soup noodle with clam pho and salad (¥950) is a milder but equally gratifying choice. The soup includes bean sprouts, green onions, clams, a slice of lemon, and of course the staple pho noodles. Finish off your indulgent meal with the dessert of the day (¥100), two scoops of va- CAFE ¥¥ JP nilla ice cream lightly sprinkled with Between 11am and 4pm on weekdays, the coconut shavings. An Asian Trifecta lunch menu—in both Japanese and English— Whether you’re looking to unwind for lunch, TEXT AND PHOTO BY MARI OBI offers a concise list of nine main dishes starting afternoon tea, or dining out with friends, Green at ¥950. The staff are friendly and considerate, Asia is sure to meet all your needs. Sitting out- Green Asia makes all the culinary stops around and the wait is surprisingly short at less than doors on the shaded terrace during the warmer the region with dishes from Indonesia, Thailand, 10 minutes. months is a must, as you’ll be treated to an un- and Vietnam. Located in the lower levels of Rop- For starters, help yourself to the shrimp obstructed view of Tokyo Tower and the city pongi Hills, a fusion of Asian foods is waiting to crackers dipped in avocado sauce (¥620). that lies sprawling behind it. dazzle your taste buds. The cilantro and onion slices are refreshingly As Green Asia’s cheery neon sign says, “I Set apart from the flurry of commuters exit- sharp, the creamy avocado paste melts in your like food, I like eating, and I don’t want to de- ing the station nearby, the restaurant makes mouth, and the deliciously crispy crackers are prive myself of good food.” You can’t help but for a peaceful hideaway. From the outset, the as large as your palm. Or you could go with the wholeheartedly agree. worn-in wooden tables, chalkboard walls, and fried spring rolls stuffed with shrimp and sweet Green Asia. Roppongi Hillside B1F, 6-10-1 delicate fairy lights beckon you. Among other basil (¥620), arguably the most exquisite side Roppongi, Minato-ku. Tel: 03-5786-7795. fun pop-art illustrations, you spot a parody of dish on offer. A toasty shade of brown, the rolls Open daily, 11am-11pm. Roppongi. www. the Star Wars logo on the wall. make a satisfying crunch as you bite into them. greenasia-tokyo.com

10 The koala is an Aussie icon; but since 1984, it has Gourmet popcorn bursts into the conbini with enjoyed fame in Japan’s snack food aisles as the Frito Lay’s Anchovy & Garlic Styling Pop pop- mascot for Lotte’s Koala no March biscuit snack. corn. Inspired by bagna cauda, the epicurean While the cookies, each imprinted with a unique snack is one of several new Frito Lay contributions illustration of koalas in various dress, is quirky to Japan’s popcorn craze. The fish fill the ever- enough on its own, they’ve rarely ventured be- important umami requirement rather than assault yond conventional flavors. But their new, limited- taste buds, which Frito Lay leaves to the garlic. edition cotton candy flavor is a step in the right di- Truth be told, many will find this popcorn a little RECIPE rection, giving a taste of Japanese summer while too pungent. Garlic lovers, however, should get the cartoon mammals dress for the occasion. themselves to a conbini before October 12 or miss WASABI TOFU MILK GELATO Available in convenience stores nationwide. out. Available in convenience stores nationwide. RECIPE AND PHOTO BY RIEKO SUZUKI

When it comes to Japanese ice cream flavors,

¥¥ EN/JP green tea reigns supreme. But why not try the TREATS sweet stuff with another wafu green ingredi- A Taste of ent? This sweet milk gelato with a refreshing wasabi aftertaste will make you fall in love with Grandma’s this “unusual” treat. Note that tube wasabi is all TEXT AND PHOTOS BY right—but freshly grated will lend itself to the VESNA KEVORK best result. Under the Yurakucho railway tracks lies Kiya, a modest, au- Servings: 6 scoops thentic, and unsuspecting eatery Cooking time: 2 h; active 20 min whose eclectic mix of Japanese INGREDIENTS food includes various rice bowls, • 150cc milk sukiyaki, and udon (¥890- • 80cc heavy cream ¥1,320). Simple, yet wholesome and tasty side an additional side dish. The choice was not easy. • 100g silken (kinu) tofu • 60cc sweetened dishes such as grilled sardines (¥650), sautéed The locals ate furiously, in silence and with condensed milk eringi mushrooms (¥670), and chorizo wonton gusto. One can never eat enough fish, so I • 1 teaspoon wasabi (¥670) are offered. chose the grilled dry sardines (¥650). Those The decor is uninspiring and reminiscent of who enjoy the very salty and the dry will most DIRECTIONS: an onsen diner. However, the food is authentic, definitely be in heaven. 1. Whip heavy cream to form soft peaks. unpretentious, and very satisfying. The clientele are all locals. A mixture of sala- 2. Blend milk, silken tofu, sweetened con- I couldn’t resist tentoji don, the shrimp bowl rymen, grandmas with grandchildren likely on a densed milk, and wasabi to smoothen purée. (¥1,220), and was presented with a rice bowl special day out, and local ladies lunching. 3. Add half of the whipped heavy cream and mix topped with three large shrimp and fluffy egg This place offers a satisfying meal and will well. After, add the rest of the cream and mix topping, miso soup, and pickles. It was delicious show you where the locals hide during lunch- to smooth. Shift to the container and freeze and wonderful comfort food. With a strong time—in a great little restaurant under the rail- for 1 h. yearning to sample more of these “grandma- way tracks of Yurakucho. It makes one wonder 4. Take ice cream container out of the freezer. style” homemade treats, I scanned the menu for what other hidden restaurants, bars, and beau- Whip well to make it fluffy. Freeze again for tiful cafés or fashion boutiques Tokyo is hiding another hour. underground that most may not be aware of. 5. Repeat step 4 a few times, until the ice cream If you’re after affordable, unpretentious, freezes completely but remains fluffy. homemade-like Japanese food, then welcome to grandma’s—or Kiya’s. The names are inter- changeable. Kiya. 2-1-4 Yurakucho, Chiyoda-ku. Tel: 03 Rieko Suzuki 3580 6788. Open 11am-3am weekdays, 11am- Rieko blogs bilingual recipes at http://meturl.com/ruby 10pm Sat, Sun & hols. Yurakucho (Hibiya Line A6 or A2). Various branches.

11 city life MISS ROBOTO Kumin Hancock and the allure of Robot Restaurant BY TWIKI KLAATU

hen Cyndi Lauper sang, “Lying in my bed, I hear the clock tick and think of you / Caught up in circles, confu- W sion is nothing new,” I don’t think she knew about Shinjuku’s Robot Restaurant. But the description is apt, and the robots seem to agree. As we sat in the waiting room, preparing to descend a psychedelic staircase to the show floor, the strains of “Time After Time” drifted delicately through the air. Performing the 1984 hit on acoustic guitar was a shiny drumming on both Japanese drums and the metal man—or woman—who may have been a snares you find in a marching band) add so Cylon. It wasn’t what we were expecting when much fun to the job. It’s variety that also gen- we journeyed into the heart of Kabukicho, and erates energy, and the compact show floor it wouldn’t be the last circle of confusion we’d channels that energy to connect performer find ourselves in. and viewer. But confusion is part of the fun of Robot “Even though the stage is small, I enjoy Restaurant. It’s a bafflement that stems from performing with the other girls and feeling the the swirling patterns and colors of the decor excitement of the crowd,” Kumin says. and the sheer chaos of the show itself. In fact, It’s now been a year and a half since she this seems to be the premise of the attrac- joined Robot Restaurant; but as wonderful as tion, which opened in July 2012 and has since it has been, it almost wasn’t. When auditioning, become one of Tokyo’s must-visit spots for hopefuls get only one shot—and most don’t tourists and residents alike. make the cut. The process involves dancing When most people who have not yet been freestyle in front of the judges, who decide inducted into the insanity hear the name Robot based on that single performance whether Restaurant, they naturally expect to find robots. you’re in or out. That’s enough to make even And while there are some humanoids of the a robot sweat. mechanical variety to be found inside these “I was very nervous the day I auditioned,” LED and mirror-laden walls, they seem to be Kumin Hancock Kumin reminisced, “and I didn’t do so well; but in the minority. Skimpily-clad girls, mechanical I still made it.” dinosaurs, mermaids, and even a cow round Sounds like fun, right? Kumin Hancock Made it she did, and she’s become one of out the most bizarre show you’re likely to see. thought so. Kumin, whose mother is Filipino the most popular dancers at Robot Restaurant. and father Japanese, learned of Robot Restau- Maintaining that position takes a lot of work, rant from seeing the advertisement trucks with and the group rehearses seven days a week. giant robots that have been known to cruise the On the days when she isn’t performing, she city. When friends also told the dancer about sometimes watches the show from the audi- the show, she knew she wanted to be part of it. Was it the droids that caught her eye? Not really. She saw it more as an opportunity. “At other venues I would be a background dancer,” Kumin explains. “But here I can be the main attraction.” And she is. During the days she performs—which come three times a week— Kumin has a very visible role. Dancing in the spotlight was, of course, the initial draw. But as Kumin explained, the battles and the taiko (the show involves extensive

12 Photos by Kohji Shiiki ON AIR PODCAST

New Metropolis podcast brings our content to life BY C BRYAN JONES

e love print. As a physical magazine, Me- editor Martin Leroux, editorial assistant Momoko tropolis has been at the core of the for- Mochizuki, and me discussing various topics in Weign community in Tokyo since 1994. One the same way we do when we’re planning out of the things we love most about creating this and creating content for the magazine. Martin ence. She notes that you can really feel the magazine is sharing the stories of the incred- and Momoko even bring our Lingoist language energy of the performance as the robots come ibly interesting people who live in our city. While tips to life. up close to the crowd—something we can at- print is good for this, audio is better. When we Of course, our classifieds section is one of the test to firsthand. Seeing the spectacle from record a conversation with those we spotlight in most popular parts of Metropolis (we used to be the other side of the curtain also allows her Metropolis, we can bring you their story in their Tokyo Classified, after all!), and no one can pres- to make the experience better for the guests. own voice, making it come alive. ent them like designer Davi Azevedo. Without a doubt, Robot Restaurant is an ex- Thanks to the relentless march of technology, One limitation of the podcast format is time. perience everyone should have at least once. capturing these thoughts and delivering them to We meet so many fascinating people at Me- “Robot Restaurant is a strange atmosphere,” you is simple. Our new podcast, Metropolis On tropolis, there just isn’t time in a single show admits Kumin, “but please come!” And as the Air, is recorded around the city, capturing the life to share their entire stories. That’s why, in ad- regulars can confirm, visitors will take home a of Tokyo wherever we happen to be. dition to Metropolis On Air, we also launched suitcase of memories, time after time. It’s a format that I’ve wanted to bring to Me- Metropolis One-on-One. Available alongside the B2F Shinjuku Robot Bldg, 1-7-1 Kabukicho, tropolis for quite some time. I’ve been podcasting main podcast, One-on-One offers full-length ver- Shinjuku-ku. Open daily 3:30-11:15pm. Tel.: 03- for five years and have launched more than 20 sions of the abridged audio interviews you find in 3200-5500. Shinjuku. www.shinjuku-robot. shows. Over the course of that time—and the Metropolis On Air. com 2,000-plus episodes I’ve published—I’ve come Sounds good, right? But how do you listen? to understand the power of the podcast for both That’s easy. If you’re an iPhone, iPad, or iTunes those who listen and those who share their sto- user, you can subscribe right through the iTunes ries as guests. app (desktop) or Podcasts app (iOS). If you’re an In our first episode, Shenan Brown of the Android user, you’ll find the show by searching Jawaiian group Def Tech, wildly popular in Japan, third-party apps like Pocket Casts, or you can joined us to talk about everything from growing just paste the RSS link into whatever app you up in Hawaii to why the group broke up and later use. And, of course, you can also stream the got back together. Tetsuo Nakashima also joined audio from our website at metropolisjapan.com. us to share the story behind Fukushima Kids You can even download the MP3 file from each Dolphin Camp, a story that you saw in the last is- episode’s webpage. sue of the magazine. That article only scratched So give us a listen! Until now you’ve only the surface. Hearing from Tetsuo directly added been reading the words we type. Come and a whole new dimension to the wonderful cause. connect with our voices. And who knows? You In our second episode, nostalgia hit as I sat might end up on Metropolis On Air as well! down with LaTonya Whitaker of Taste the Love. LaTonya teaches Japanese students how to cook authentic Southern food—the kind of food I grew HOW TO LISTEN up with. And FOX executive producer Dan Smith iPhone/iTunes http://meturl.com/onairitunes shared how he landed his sweet gig in Tokyo. Android/RSS The podcast is also a way for our editorial and http://metropolis.libsyn.com/rss design teams to share their voices with you. Seg- Website http://metropolisjapan.com/on-air ments like Around Town and Editors’ Summit find

13 fashion fix BY SAMUEL THOMAS, FASHION EDITOR

okyo street fashion has been feeling a little bit too peaceful these days. Photo-hunting tourists, believing that they’re on safari, have chased away much of the talent from Harajuku, and main- stream tastes for norm-core are limiting the extremes, even while the overall standard stays high. ATTACK OF With that in mind, it’s worth remembering there are those fighting back and making the case of fashion for fashion’s sake, aT means of transcending the everyday and living, albeit temporarily, as someone—or something—else. The world of tokusatsu (Japanese special effects films), and its offshoot kaijū (monster THE FASHION films), is at the heart of Japanese popular culture. Yet until recently, it has remained rela- tively under-explored in fashion, a fact made more remarkable by remembering that there was always a human tucked away inside Godzil- la—someone was already wearing Godzilla. And while I can understand that even Tokyo isn’t ready for a fashionista clomping their way MONSTERS through its backstreets channeling Godzilla TAKASHI verbatim, the beast of fashion, always hungry NISHIYAMA for inspiration, has been slow in realizing this Arguably the first proponent of aesthetic in reality. That is, until now. the tokusatsu fashion genre, Takashi Nishiyama shot to fame straight out of the Co- conogacco fashion school, winning the coveted “Fashion Collection of the Year” from ITS in 2010 with his very first collection, inspired by the popular video game Monster Hunter. From there, the monsters kept getting bigger and bigger; and while he did toy with his own takes on heroes by offering a biker take on Ultraman, it’s the sinister, mutated, or gargantu- an that the diminutive designer advocates. Core to the young designer’s style are heavy-set shoulders with long hanging layers that actually blend well with the tastes for hip-hop style seen everywhere in menswear right now. His Godzilla-inspired output takes this to its logical conclusion, with a fanged hood, huge rounded shoulders, and heavy hanging layers all rendered in a tangle of distressed leather, ripped denim, and glossy nylon reflecting the scales of the beast perfectly. With those high-profile success stories and funding behind him, Nishiyama moved away from the grimy end of the monster spectrum and started working with luxurious materials

14 FASHION CALENDAR CHECK METROPOLISJAPAN.COM FOR THE LATEST FASHION CALENDAR.

XENO AVATAR A new entry on the underground scene, Xeno Avatar brings the idea of kaijū right up-to-date with the new wave of feminized anthropomorphization of beasts currently in vogue in anime and manga. The brand is the work of an entirely anonymous designer ATTACK OF ... well, I could tell you, but I think it’s better to think that this fashion label just popped out of a glitch in the cosmos. At any rate, the construction and patterning is on THE FASHION another plane of reality altogether. MONSTERS to achieve the same effects. His recent experi- ments in fur, exotic leather, and top-of-the-range silk all explore different aspects of the monster aesthetic, without compromising the scale of his vision. Interestingly, he insists that every A MAN OF ULTRA item from his collection can technically be worn, For those who can’t quite find a place in their with robotic shields turning into clutches, and wardrobe for some of the more extreme tokusat- alien heads unzipping to reveal that they are su-inspired fashion, a new project from Eiji Tsub- bags in disguise. uraya’s cult series Ultraman might just be for you. With every step, Takashi Nishiyama gets The “A Man of Ultra” project permits absolutely closer to getting his work worn by fashion civil- anyone to create their own fashion or accessory ians, and now that he has kickstarted a whole collaboration with the series, in any manner wave of others to follow in his path, it might just of their choosing, as long as they contact the catch on faster than you think. project in advance online and don’t use any of the imagery from the series entirely directly. So far a lot of Tokyo talent, including Guild Prime, Jam Home Made, Loveless, and Okayama’s Mo- motaro Jeans, have gotten involved. And if you want to join them as a fellow Man of Ultra, then you only need apply. http://aman-u.jp

CHIHARU Following in the lineage of Takashi Nishiyama, young designer Sugimoto Chiharu was also inspired by kaijū monsters for her graduate collection, winning the 2014 Tokyo New Designer Fashion Grand Prix in the process. Her recent output focuses more on the idea of mutated humans. Under the banner of “Tokyo Militia Propa- ganda,” her gang of masked models’ allegiance is not entirely clear, but are all the cooler for it.

15 movies BY DON MORTON

featured movie INSIDE OUT It must have been a hard sell at the pitch meeting. Anthropomorphized emotions in the mind of a little girl on the brink of adolescence react to her family’s traumatic move from Minnesota to San Francisco. That the movie even got made is a triumph for Pixar, which has made a few duds since selling out to Disney, and a return to form for the uniquely innovative studio. The director is Pete Docter, who made Monsters, Inc. and Up. Mom and dad are voiced by Diane Lane and Kyle MacLachlan. The little girl by Kaitlyn Dias. The color-coded emotions are Joy (Amy Poehler), Sadness (Phyllis Smith), Anger (Lewis Black), Fear (Bill Hader), and Disgust (Mindy Kaling). The plot is too complex to go into in this space, but don’t dismiss this as a children’s cartoon. This is an emotionally intelligent, surreal, cathartic, and heavily metaphoric take on the fleeting nature of childhood. Compare it to Toy Story 3 or even Boyhood. Never a dull moment. It’s a movie for the mind, the eye, and the heart. Had this hardened film critic blubbering like a baby. Should you see it? That’s a no-brainer. Japanese title: Inside Head. (94 min)

NEW THE ROVER NEW SKIN TRADE NEW 7500 In an unexplained, post- Hard-boiled Newark Well, here’s one you’ll apocalyptic Aussie detective Nick Cassidy never have to watch on outback, the car of an (co-writer and producer an airliner. The broadly intense loner (a terrific Dolph Lundgren) kills the stereotypical passengers Guy Pearce) is stolen by a son of a notorious sex- aboard the L.A.-to-Tokyo trio of outlaws. Dude really wants his crummy McGuffin trafficker (Ron Perlman), who in return blows up Nick’s title flight (a 747 with just two cabin attendants) begin to car back. Why? The thieves leave behind a wounded, house, wife, and daughter. Cut to Bangkok, where Nick experience some spooky-ish happenings, starting with a brain-addled comrade (Robert Pattinson) whom the teams up with Thai action star Tony Jaa to engage in passenger spitting blood and dying. Then others begin to Guy guy abducts to help find his precious car. Things several repetitive, overlong, and clichéd fight and chase fall victim to some never-seen (cheaper, I guess), vaguely get violent, brutal, and all around ugly. This Aussie noir scenes. This brutal, banal movie has nothing to do, Japanesy spirit. I couldn’t connect to the characters or by David Michod (Animal Kingdom) is bleak, nihilistic, really, with sex trafficking, other than using it as a self- the laughable narrative in this unscary, B-grade, inflight and fashionably grim. Imagine a slow Mad Max with righteous revenge motive. Its shameless inclusion of horror head-scratcher. Directed by J-horror journeyman hints of Wake in Fright and The Road. Not a laff riot, some sex-trafficking statistics before the end credits is Takashi Shimizu, creator of The Grudge. Direct to DVD but somehow compelling, and not quickly forgotten. frankly disgusting. And it has the gall to set up a sequel. everywhere else in the world. (80 min) Japanese title: Dakkansha. (106 min) Japanese title: Battle Heat. (96 min)

NEW EXTRATERRESTRIAL NEW THE PURGE NEW TUSK At the end, a character OK, here’s the deal: in An obnoxious L.A. says, “It’s the same thing a near-future United blogger (Justin Long) we do every time.” Well, States, all laws, including is taken prisoner by a there’s your review. murder, are suspended demented old Canadian Maybe the filmmakers for 12 hours every March fart (Michael Parks) and (the unrelated and not particularly vicious Vicious 22. This presumably allows the citizens to vent their rage surgically, Human Centipede-style, restructured into Brothers of Grave Encounters) wanted to see how many and frustration, and lowers the crime rate. Now, a certain a walrus. Director Kevin Smith needs a few “no” men clichés they could stuff into a single movie. Obnoxious, suspension of disbelief is necessary in any sci-fi story. around him to remind him that maybe he shouldn’t make pot-smoking, fornicating twenty-somethings in a cabin in But I’m sorry; this idea is so sociologically batty that I just movies out of every dopey thing he thinks up when he’s the woods are terrorized by generic aliens. Clueless cops, couldn’t get around it. And even if I did, all that’s there stoned. This is a one-joke curiosity, a filmed dare, a self- cattle mutilations, crazy Vietnam vet, and don’t forget the is an amped-up, B-level, home-invasion flick. Worse, the congratulatory experiment that’s neither scary nor funny, abductions and anal probes. Cast consists of talentless filmmakers’ ham-fisted attempts to turn this into social whose main purpose is to inspire disbelief that anyone wannabes and has-beens (Gil Bellows, Michael Ironside). commentary are simply insulting. Note to Ethan Hawke: would even make such a thing. Do you really want to Close encounters of the cheesy kind. (101 min) get a new agent. (85 min) spend money on this? Japanese title: Mr. Tusk. (102 min)

Inside Out: © 2014 Disney/Pixar. All Rights Reserved.; The Rover: © 2013 Rover Film Holdings Pty Limited, Screen Australia, Screen NSW and the South Australian Film Corporation; Skin Trade: © SC FILMS THAILAND CO., LTD 2014; 7500: © 2014 CBS Films Inc. All Rights Reserved; Extraterrestrial: © 2014 ABDUCTION FILMS LTD. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED; The Purge: © Universal Pictures; Tusk: © 2014 Big Oosik, LLC, and SmodCo Inc. All Rights Reserved.; Tracks: © 2013 SEE-SAW (TRACKS) HOLDINGS PTY LIMITED, A.P. FACILITIES PTY LIMITED, SCREEN AUSTRALIA, SOUTH AUSTRALIAN FILM CORPORATION, SCREEN NSW AND ADELAIDE FILM FESTIVAL; Terminator Genisys: © 2015 Paramount Pictures. All Rights Reserved.; Walking on Sunshine: © WOS DISTRIBUTION (IRELAND) LTD. 2014; Child 44: Photo Credit: Larry Horricks. © 2015 Summit Entertainment, LLC. All Rights Reserved.; Avengers: Age of Ultron: ©Marvel 2015; Shaun the Sheep Movie: © 2014 Aardman Animations Limited and Studiocanal S.A.

16 More reviews: metropolisjapan.com/movies

NEW TRACKS TERMINATOR GENISYS WALKING ON SUNSHINE In 1977, Robyn Davidson In order to justify its A young English woman set off with four camels existence, this desperate arrives in Italy for her and a dog for a nine- cash grab throws the sister’s wedding only to month trek across the entire Terminator mythos find that Sis’ intended is Australian outback. out the window and the hunk she loved and left Agreeing to financial support from National Geographic comes up with an elaborately rigged, time-shuffling story three years earlier. So what do they do? They sing about in exchange for regular rendezvous with a photographer that spends a lot of time explaining itself in between it. Just to know where we stand: I actually liked Mamma may not have been the best way to find the solitude endless computer-generated battle scenes featuring Mia. I know; surprised me, too. But the only entertainment she was seeking, but her journey captured the world’s liquid-metal bad guys reconstituting themselves. Bottom value here is watching with horror as bad actors shoehorn imagination. She later wrote a bestseller, from which line: a big, noisy, humorless bore. Arnold Schwarzenegger, nightmarish covers of insipid ’80s pop songs by Cher, this is adapted. Mia Wasikowska aces the main role with a post-Governator box office bust, has a lot riding on this Wham!, and George Michael into this shallow narrative. an authentically lived-in performance. This haunting, film. More than once, he says, “I’m old, not obsolete.” It reminded me of those generic background videos you meditative film may be a bit slow for some, but rewarding Well, that’s for us to decide, isn’t it? Note to Schwa-chan: see at cheesy karaoke bars. Truly and consistently awful. for those patient enough to see its subtle qualities. Please don’t be back. Japanese title: Terminator: Shinkidō Japanese title: Odoru I Love You. (97 min) Japanese title: Kiseki no 2,000 Mile. (112 min) Genisys. (125 min)

CHILD 44 AVENGERS: SHAUN THE SHEEP I greatly enjoyed Tom Rob AGE OF ULTRON MOVIE Smith’s complex novel Superhero super- After 130 delightfully about a disillusioned saturation. Marvel off-kilter, seven-minute Stalinist-era cop hunting overload. I couldn’t wait TV adventures by the a serial killer of children for it to end. Soulless diminutive title sheep and in a country that refuses to acknowledge that such sequel slogs through seven-plus super-story updates; company down on Mossy Bottom Farm, Aardman Studios’ aberrations exist in the Soviet paradise. If you ignore several extraneous subplots; endless, repetitive, claymation flock finally heads for the big screen. And the varying “Roo-ssian y’accents,” the acting, by Tom computer-generated battle set pieces; and exhibits a the big city, with the animals undertaking a trek to town Hardy, Noomi Rapace, and Gary Oldman is solid, and general lack of wonder. The impressive team of A-listers to rescue their amnesia-stricken farmer, whose sheep- the filmmakers create an effective if exaggerated has little to do but support the special effects. It’s more shearing skills have led to a new career as an avant-garde atmosphere of retro red-baiting, claustrophobic paranoia. frenzied than fun, and so noisy it kept waking me up. celebrity barber. Lack of dialogue makes this a great cross- But the direction is inert, the adaptation all but incoherent, And the titular super-villain is a disturbed robot whose cultural date movie. Plus it’s colorful and kinetic enough the ending anti-climactic, and the whole overlong thing plan to achieve peace in the world involves removing all for the tots, while the hilarious sight gags and droll social curiously devoid of thrills or suspense. Japanese title: the humans from it. Yawn. Struggles against the Marvel satire make it a rare treat for parents as well. Japanese Child 44: Mori ni Kieta Kodomotachi. (147 min) template—just not all that hard. (141 min) title: Hitsuji no Shaun: Back to the Home. (85 min)

eiga movie news cinematic underground

Since the concept of jikka, When the last Mission: Impossible flick was released Wim Wenders’s Oscar-nominated doc The Salt of UMI NO one’s hometown, is extremely in 2011, Tom Cruise made headlines by leaping off the Earth profiles Brazilian photographer Sebastião FUTA important in Japanese culture, the Burj Khalifa tower in Dubai. Now 53, Cruise is still Salgado, who, after decades of capturing human By Rob Schwartz it should come as no surprise at it, and the only way to top hanging off the world’s conflict, goes on a mission to capture the unspoiled that the country regularly churns tallest building is to cling to the outside of an airplane. landscapes of the globe. Partially in Portuguese out nostalgic movies about a person returning home. That’s just what he did for Mission: Impossible Rogue and French and on from August 1 at Bunkamura’s This is basically a whole genre of film on these shores. Nation—without the use of stunt doubles, camera Le Cinema (2-24-1 Dogenzaka, Shibuya-ku; www. The stories are usually very pastoral and often set by the tricks, or green screen. The actor told Yahoo! UK, “As bunkamura.co.jp) ... The Argentinian flick Wild Tales sea, though they can be more urban (see my last review, a kid, I remember flying on an airplane and thinking, features vignettes of half a dozen unconnected Gunjōiro no Tōrimichi). Director Keisuke Toyoshima’s Umi what would it be like out on the wing or on the side characters who all find themselves in extremely no Futa, based on a Banana Yoshimoto novel, is a perfect of the airplane?” Director Christopher McQuarrie stressful situations. Hitting the screen on July 25 at embodiment of the type. Mari (Akiko Kikuchi) tires of the had a model of an Airbus A400M, a giant military Cinema Rise (13-17 Utagawacho, Shibuya-ku; www. hectic big city and moves back to her quiet hometown transport plane, and jokingly suggested putting his cinemarise.com) ... The French comedy The Price by the sea in Shizuoka Prefecture. She’s set on opening star on the outside. To his surprise, Cruise took him of Fame follows two bungling criminals who dig up a store selling shaved ice, or kakigōri (the saccharine up on the challenge. The star related that preparation Charlie Chaplin’s coffin and hold his body for ransom. image is perfect for this piece). Thus, this flick can hit all focused on building a camera rig that wouldn't break As absurd as it sounds, it’s actually based on a true the obvious plot points of planning, constructing, and off and hit him, designing contact lenses to keep the story. Playing now at Cine Switch in Ginza (4-4-5 designing the shop (“putting your all” into a project related fuel fumes out of his eyes, and clearing the area of Ginza, Chuo-ku; www.cineswitch.com) ... Pop singer to returning home is a cornerstone of the genre), as well debris that could hit him at high velocity. “Once I was and actress in bad girl roles Meiko Kaji is marking the as focus on a traditional and cherished Japanese food. As on the side of the airplane, that was it. There’s no way 50th anniversary of her film debut, and Cinema Vera a conflict with Osamu (Yukichi Kobayashi), a friend from to get me off the airplane halfway through!” the star (1-5 Maruyamacho, Shibuya-ku; www.cinemavera. her youth, arises, Mari is forced to adapt. Nostalgic, syrupy said, adding that he did the stunt eight times. Mission: com) is screening some of her best films through sweet, and melodramatic, Umi no Futa is pretty much the Impossible Rogue Nation will be released in Japan August 7, including Lady Snowblood (1973), which epitome of the genre. Approach with caution. (84 min) Aug 7. Kevin Mcgue inspired Tarantino’s Kill Bill. KM

17 arts&culture

MUSIC UKON

TAKAFUJISamurai swordplay for the masses BY DAN GRUNEBAUM

hen Metropolis locates Ukon Taka- (the stage names play on the Japanese fuji, the expert swordsman is prepar- words for “right” and “left”) enact lion ing a new performance of Japan’s dance scenes from kabuki. The group W foundational Amaterasu myth—set has performed on stages from New to techno music. York to Taipei. “It’s a samurai-dance music mashup,” Taka- A decade ago, Takafuji embarked fuji explains about his unconventional approach. on his own journey, moving to Tokyo “I first did this about five years ago; but we had and opening a studio in the Ikejiri calls to bring it back, so we’re working on a new Ohashi area, near Shibuya. He pio- show with DJs at [Shibuya club] Womb.” neered popular programs such the

Efforts like his EDM Amaterasu, based on the Katana Exercise, which has been Photos: Samurai Training Tokyo story of the sun goddess from whom Japanese featured on TV programs hosted by emperors are said to be descended, and Taka- the likes of “Beat” Takeshi and Arashi. fuji’s Tokyo Samurai Workshop, make tradition- Takafuji says he does indeed catch al practitioners of kenjutsu (“sword method”) flak from traditionalists, but he takes it blanche. But Takafuji has devoted his entire life in stride. to the art of swordsmanship, and in a sense has “The criticism comes from people in as much a claim to it as sensei with nobler pedi- well-established families of performing grees in the craft. artists who’ve been doing certain styles for “The area of Kanazawa where I grew up generations,” he notes. “But our audiences has a long tradition of kenjutsu,” the 37-year- encourage us. We worry less about criticism old says. “But it’s the countryside, so the than about not entertaining our fans.” practice is different than in Tokyo. For our The savvy swordsman’s most recent cre- local matsuri [festivals], kids would go around ations target the international tourism boom and stage fights in front of people’s houses. sweeping Japan. Samurai Training Tokyo of- It’s a kind of yakubarai [rite to ward off evil]. fers the chance to don a samurai outfit and So kenjutsu is something I’ve been doing have your photo taken before learning the since childhood. I mix it with techniques I basic routines. learned as an adult.” My 10-year-old son and I give it a whirl, Takafuji first got serious about a career in donning samurai hakama attire and being led Japanese martial and performing arts when through the paces of Japanese swordplay— his mother founded a traditional Nihon buyō something akin to what one might see in a primary school students in the U.S., and his ef- (Japanese dance) troupe, Takafuji Ryu (“Taka- samurai action flick—before being awarded a forts to proselytize Japanese culture don’t stop fuji Style”). Takafuji’s mother performs geisha “Samurai Certificate.” My son takes immense at swordsmanship. Ramen Experience Tokyo— dances, while Ukon and his brother Sakon pleasure in mercilessly killing me over and over. Takafuji also runs a ramen shop—is a brand- Takafuji also offers a Katana Exercise pro- new program that gives the world’s growing gram that’s popular with women. “The men are legions of ramen fanatics the chance to learn aiming to be pro, whereas the women seem to how to make Japan’s famous noodle dish. do it for fun,” he says. “Kenjutsu is originally a Participants receive instruction in the art of male tradition, so it’s new to them. They may preparing the all-important ramen broth using have wanted to try it for a long time, but teach- Takafuji’s original tonkotsu (pork bone) recipe, ers wouldn’t teach them. We have women-only cooking and shaking the noodles dry with flair, classes, so they can come and do it comfortably and of course slurping them down to top it off. after work. It’s also a kind of stress release from Tokyo Samurai: www.tokyo-samurai.com. the office.” Ramen Experience Tokyo: http://meturl.com/ Takafuji also provides Skype workshops to ramenexperiencetokyo.

18 © Kawanabe Kyosai Memorial Museum of Kyōsai, an extremely active and prolific painter in the decades before his death in 1889. Like the famous Katsushika Hokusai, Kyōsai was a master of several distinct genres, from classical Kanō school paintings on Chinese themes to more “schlock horror” subject matter, like his woodblock print of a Hell Courtesan (1874), which has a delightful background crowded with satirical skeletons engaged in various activities. There’s even a small section of his erotic shunga works, discreetly curtained off. But the best of his works, in my opinion, are the charming paintings of animals, which he painted near the end of his life, such as Owl Mocked by Small Birds (c. 1888), Mon- key Hanging from Grapevines (c. 1888) and Beauty Watching Frogs at Play, early Meiji Period, Kyosai Kawabata Cat Catching a Frog (c. 1888). These often have an endearing comical or macabre twist, which speaks of an old man’s sympathy for ART his fellow creatures. Most of these works are ink and in very light colors on silk, with the fur of the animals evoked with particularly KYŌSAI AND beautiful and soft brush strokes. Several of these works are also accompanied by sketches, inscribed, “Preparatory JOSIAH CONDER drawings for the Englishmen.” This suggests BY C.B. LIDDELL the pictures were painted at the behest of foreign buyers, although, shortly after Kyōsai’s lthough recently rebuilt, the Mitsubishi Among other things, he even wrote the death, they were purchased by a rich Ameri- Ichigokan building was designed by first book in English on ikebana. This posi- can collector and are now part of the Met- English architect Josiah Conder in the tive attitude to his host country made him an ropolitan Museum of New York’s collection. A 1890s. Conder is generally acknowl- ideal figure to assist in the modernization of Overall, this is a rich and fascinating exhi- edged to be the “Father of modern Japanese its architecture. bition that has several interesting stories to architecture,” and is credited with designing The exhibition presently held at the Mit- tell, and lots of visual variety. many important buildings in Meiji-Era Japan, subishi Ichigokan Museum focuses on one of Until Sep 6. Mitsubishi Ichigokan Museum. as well as teaching the first wave of mod- the most fascinating aspects of Conder’s re- http://mimt.jp/kyosai ern Japanese architects, including Tatsuno lationship with Japan, namely his association Kingo, the architect of Tokyo Station’s famous with the famous Meiji-Period artist Kawanabe © Kawanabe Kyosai Memorial Museum Marunouchi Building. Kyōsai, who agreed to teach the Englishman The reason that Conder was such a pivotal traditional Japanese painting. figure was not just because of his technical The exhibit contains biographical mate- skills as an architect—he worked under the rials on both men—photographs, personal Gothic revivalist architect William Burges in letters, architectural plans by Conder (of the England—but because he also had a deep actual building the exhibition is being held affinity for the Japanese people and their within!), etc. But it also includes a good se- culture. lection of Conder’s own Japanese artworks. ©Tokyo Gas Museum He painted these under his Japanese artist name of “Kyoei,” a somewhat tongue-in- cheek name that means “the English Kyōsai.” It’s clear from the examples on display, like his silk painting Swimming Carp (undated) and his folding screen Ling Zhao and Shide (undated), that Conder was a quick learner and attained considerable proficiency in Ori- ental art. This is a fascinating storyline, but it’s more in the nature of an exotic appetizer. The In Front of the Paris Opera, 1879, Kyosai Kawabata bulk of the exhibition centers on the work Cat Catching a Frog, c. 1888, Kyosai Kawabata

arts&culture

STUFF MIGHT BE DIFFICULT RIGHT NOW, BUT IF YOU FIGHT THROUGH IT, YOU’LL BE A STRONGER PERSON.”

lyrics. The break room became his regular stage. Back at school, the Japanese classes shrank with time; but Sonny B stuck with his studies to fluency. Eventually, he realized his ambition to move to Japan. These days, life abroad is a main influence on his work—especially the feelings of isolation that come with it. “Tokyo’s a big city, but as a foreigner it be- comes really small, and really lonely,” the rapper explains. “The fact that you can’t just hit up your lifelong friends and relatives really hits home.” Another huge influence is the passing of his mother. His song “Mother’s Day” is a thank-you for everything he’d experienced with her—the positives and negatives. “Our parents may not be the ones that we wish that we had, but in the end, they want to give us the best. They may not know the best way to do it, but they’re trying.” When discussing the new environment he lives in, Sonny B says Tokyo and California both MUSIC have their pros and cons when it comes to trying to make it as a rapper. While Cali is all about name-dropping and who you know, it’s also a place of innovation. In Tokyo, people respect music, he says, but the hesitation to “surpass Sonny B their bigger brother” makes innovation and Bay Area rapper brings Japan-Cali connection competition more difficult. BY AMANDA TAYLOR “Next, let’s start a revolution / Next, let’s believe we’re superhuman,” he raps on “Let Me apper, producer, and videographer Sonny But how does a rapper from a California port Fly,” a ballad featuring Japanese singer Yo Hey. B has lived what he calls a “double life.” city end up on Tokyo’s stages? It’s clear Sonny B wants to ignite and inspire The Oakland native’s early life con- Sonny B’s journey began when he sang with his rhymes. R sisted of the duality of facing domestic lead baritone in his junior high school choir. “Stuff might be difficult right now, but if you hardships and gaining family values and respect Due to his troubled home life—he candidly de- fight through it, you’ll be a stronger person.” for higher education through time spent with his scribes growing up with his mother as rough; Check out Sonny B’s music on iTunes or find father. Despite his childhood’s trials, the core his parents were never married—cutting into it on Band Camp at http://sonnybcreative. message of his lyrics is one of hope and per- his attendance, he was asked to drop out of bandcamp.com. Find out more about Sonny severance. the group. B at http://sonnybcreative.com. Now, his “double life” refers to jetting be- “I was missing first period to take my kids … tween California and Tokyo. sorry, my younger sisters, to school,” he says, “Since I was young, my only fear was being adding that, fortunately, he was not expelled. average; that I won’t have / And so I’m set on His passion for hip-hop was ignited when this path that’s taking me to places you only Sonny B discovered the Japanese duo M-Flo imagined,” Sonny B raps on his track “At the through a video game. The bilingualism of the Top.” group’s rapper, Verbal, impressed Sonny B so True to his lyrics, Sonny B, a self-proclaimed much that he started learning Japanese. nomad, is carving out his place on Asia’s hip- In college, Sonny B found rap to be an outlet, hop scene, working with up-and-comers in and he’d spit rhymes during break time at an Japan like Jinmenusagi and ISH-ONE, and unrelated part-time job. Soon, he started rap- also branching out into South Korea. ping for his coworkers, who were moved by his

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Tel: international music scene, Luur Nakamura, etc. From 11pm. Shibuya Girls Party. EDM: DJs Tel: 03-5534-2525. www. 03-5221-9000. http://j.mp/ Metalls has participated in Air ¥3,000 w/1d. Shibuya. Tel: C’k, Matsuzaki, etc. From ageha.com disneyinconcert2015alice some of the most prestigious Duce. Techno: DJs Tadeo, The 03-5458-2551. www.clubasia. 10pm. (m)¥2,500 w/2d, venues and festivals around Long Count Cycle, etc. From co.jp (f)¥1,500 w/2d. Shibuya. Weekend Garage Tokyo Disney in Concert: The the globe. Aug 8, 7pm. ¥5,000. 10pm. ¥3,500. Shibuya. Tel: 03-5428-8692. www. WGT Lounge: DJ’s Music & Nightmare Before Tokyo Bunka Kaikan. Ueno. Tel: 03-5784-3384. www. Lounge Neo t2-shibuya.com Bar Lounge. DJ Takeshita Christmas Tel: 03-3828-2111. http://j.mp/ air-tokyo.com Basu. Bass, house: DJs plays jazz, Latin, etc. From Watch Tim Burton’s luurmetalls2015 Lisachris & Ishikawa, Hara, Womb 7:30pm. Daikanyama. Tel: The Nightmare Before Sound Museum Vision etc. From 11pm. ¥2,000 w/1d. Wedm. EDM: DJs Hiroki, Yo, 03-5428-5751. http://j.mp/ Christmas on the big screen Come Again Classics. Hip-hop: DJs Krush, Shibuya. Tel: 03-5458-2551. etc. From 10pm. (m)¥1,500, (f) wgtlounge2015 accompanied by live music Ichiro Takamoto performs Honda, etc. From 10pm. http://loungeneo.iflyer.jp free. Shibuya. Tel: 03-5459- performed by the Tokyo pieces by English Renaissance (m)¥3,500 w/1d, (f)¥3,000 0039. www.womb.co.jp Womb Symphonic Orchestra. Aug composer John Dowland. Aug w/1d. Shibuya. Tel: Womb Intergalactic. House, EDM: 7, 7pm; Aug 8, 1 & 6pm; 18, 7pm. ¥4,000 (adv)/ ¥4,500 03-5728-2824. www.vision- Holic. House, techno: DJs THURSDAY 30 DJs Taku, Remo-Con, Aug 9, 1pm. ¥7,500-9,500. (door). Koga Masao Museum tokyo.com Sprinkles, Tamura, etc. From etc. From 11pm. ¥3,500. Tokyo International Forum of Music Keyaki Hall. Yoyogi 11pm. ¥3,500. Shibuya. Tel: Air Shibuya. Tel: 03-5459- Hall A. Yurakucho. Tel: Uehara. Tel: 03-3460-9051. The Room 03-5459-0039. www.womb. Get Lost. Techno, house: 0039. www.womb.co.jp 03-5221-9000. http://j.mp/ www.koga.or.jp Champ. Funk, jazz: DJs co.jp DJ Sugiurumn and more. disneyinconcert2015 Tominaga, Oibon, etc. From 10pm. ¥2,000 w/1d. Daikanyama Unit nightmare John Owen-Jones From 10pm. ¥2,500 w/1d. SUNDAY 26 Shibuya. Tel: 03-5784-3384. Weeken’. Hip-hop: DJ Kiyo Welsh musical theater actor Shibuya. www.theroom.jp www.air-tokyo.com and more. Live: Budamunk. Romeo and Juliet and singer best known for his T2 From 11:30pm. ¥3,500. Presented by the Oxford portrayals of Jean Valjean T2 Global Allmix Party. All mix: T2 Daikanyama. Tel: 03-5459- University Dramatic in Les Misérables and The Shibuya Mixx. EDM: DJs DJs Kotani, Passion, etc. Hands Up. World mix: DJs 8630. www.unit-tokyo.com Society, this production of Phantom in Andrew Lloyd Danny Avila, Shu, etc. From From 10pm. (m)¥2,500 w/2d, Namiki, Shu, etc. From 10pm. Shakespeare’s masterpiece Webber’s The Phantom of the 10pm. (m)¥4,000 w/1d, (f)¥1,500 w/2d. Shibuya. (m)¥2,500 w/2d, (f)¥1,500 Club Arc is set in a near future Verona Opera. Aug 27, 7pm. ¥8,800- (f)¥2,500 w/2d. Shibuya. Tel: 03-5428-8692. www. w/2d. Shibuya. Tel: 03-5428- Arc+Twelv. Special host Travis where one night, Romeo 9,800. Tokyo Metropolitan Tel: 03-5428-8692. www. t2-shibuya.com 8692. www.t2-shibuya.com Bass, with special guest DJ and Juliet, women from two Theatre. Ikebukuro. Tel: t2-shibuya.com Kei. ¥3,000. Omotesando. warring households, fall in 03-5391-2111. www.geigeki.jp Womb Womb Tel: 03-6438-9240. www. love. Aug 19, 6:30pm; Aug Ageha EDM Sunday. EDM: DJs Mix Juice. EDM: DJs Yamariki, clubarctokyo.com 20, 1:30 & 6:30pm. ¥2,500. Benjamin Grosvenor Tjo to waipa to yukaina Yu-, Hanna, etc. 4-10pm. Lirica, etc. From 10pm. Tokyo Metropolitan Theatre. British classical pianist who nakamatachi. All mix: DJs (m)¥2,500, (f)free. Shibuya. (m)¥1,500, (f)free. Shibuya. Ikebukuro. Tel: 03-5391- became the youngest-ever Takeru, Wild Party, etc. From Tel: 03-5459-0039. www. Tel: 03-5459-0039. www. Dance 2111. Aug 22, 1:30pm. ¥2,500. winner of four competitions in 11pm. (m)¥3,000, (f)¥2,500. womb.co.jp womb.co.jp Sainokuni Saitama Arts 2003 at the age of 10. Sep 5, Shinkiba. Tel: 03-5534- Cinderella Theater. Yonohonmachi. 3pm. ¥2,500-3,500. Saitama 2525. www.ageha.com The Room Club Asia A production aimed Tel: 0570-064-939. www. Arts Theater. Yonohonmachi. Tokyo Jazz Meeting. Jazz, One More Step. All mix: DJs specifically for children ouds.org Tel: 0570-064-939. http://j.mp/ Club Asia crossover: DJ Shuya Okino. Tooru, T&K, etc. From 11pm. performed by the National grosvenor2015 Face to Face. All mix: DJs 8-11pm. ¥2,500 w/1d. ¥2,000 w/1d. Shibuya. Tel: Ballet of Japan. Jul Yellow Moon: The Ballad of Kubota, Katou, etc. From Shibuya. www.theroom.jp 03-5458-2551. www.clubasia. 24-25, 11:30am & 3pm. Leila and Lee Yves Henry Piano Lecture 11pm. (m)¥2,500 w/1d, co.jp ¥2,160(child)/ ¥3,240 (adult). A play by the modern Scottish Concert (f)¥1,500 w/1d. Shibuya. MONDAY 27 New National Theatre Tokyo. playwright David Greig, French pianist who was the Tel: 03-5458-2551. www. Lounge Neo Hatsudai. www.nntt.jac. telling the story of a troubled first Western European pianist clubasia.co.jp Air Kill the Time. Bass: DJs go.jp/english Scottish teenager and a Muslim to win the Robert Schumann Dynanite. House: DJs Wanico, Ymasa,The Chopstick Killahz, girl with problems of her Competition. Sep 12, 2pm. Womb Hashimoto, etc. From 10pm. etc. From 11pm. ¥1,500 w/1d. Don Quixote own, who finally encounter ¥2,000 (adv)/ ¥2,500 (door). Manic. House, techno: ¥2,000 w/1d. Shibuya. Tel: Shibuya. Tel: 03-5458-2551. Performed by The Tokyo something real and deep Mori no Hall. Hashimoto. DJs Dododod, Matsuoka, 03-5784-3384. www.air-tokyo. http://loungeneo.iflyer.jp Ballet as part of the program in the Scottish Highlands. Tel: 042-775-3811. http://j.mp/ etc. From 11pm. ¥3,500. com for the World Ballet Festival, Performed in Japanese yveshenry2015 Shibuya. Tel: 03-5459- FRIDAY 31 with choreography by with English subtitles. To 0039. www.womb.co.jp Sound Museum Vision Vladimir Vasiliev and music make a reservation, contact Tambuco Percussion Party Monster. EDM, house: Microcosmos by Léon Minkus. Jul 29, 7pm. yellowmoon2015@hotmail. Ensemble Star Lounge DJs Daishi Dance, Takeru, etc. Mecca. Disco, house: DJs ¥4,000-16,000. Tokyo Bunka com with your name, the date Grammy-nominated Mexican BS01KN: Kahn & Neek vs From 10pm. (m)¥2,500 w/1d, Ohishi, Udagawa, etc. From Kaikan. Ueno. Tel: 03-3828- and time of the show you contemporary classical Gorgon Sound in Tokyo. (f)¥2,000 w/1d. Shibuya. Tel: 12am. ¥1,000. Shibuya. 2111. www.nbs.or.jp/english would like to attend, and the percussion group. Sep 26, Kahn & Neek who lead the 03-5728-2824. www.vision- Tel: 03-5784-5496. www. number of tickets required. 3pm. ¥3,500. Saitama Arts “New Bristol sound scene,” tokyo.com microcosmos-tokyo.com Orchard Hall Ballet Gala Aug 20-21, 7:30pm; Aug Theater. Yonohonmachi. Tel: on their first tour of Japan. World-class Japanese 22, 1:30 & 5:30pm; Aug 23, 0570-064-939. http://j.mp/ From 12:30am. ¥3,000 T2 THURSDAY 30 ballet dancers gather in 1:30pm. ¥3,000 (¥2,000 for tambuco2015 (adv)/¥4,000 (door) + 1d T2 Monday. EDM: DJs Hotaru, Bunkamura’s Orchard under 25s). Nihon Geijutsu order (¥500). Shibuya. Kenta, etc. From 10pm. Club Arc Hall, under the direction Senmon Gakkou. Omori. Wiener Philharmoniker Tel: 03-6277-5373. http:// (m)¥2,500 w/2d, (f)¥1,500 Provocateur Volume 0, ft. of world-renowned ballet Tel: 03-3771-2111. http:// Week in Japan starlounge.jp w/2d. Shibuya. Tel: 03-5428- Omotesando Rosado & Fog dancer Tetsuya Kumakawa. yellowmonster.blog.jp A series of concerts performed 8692. www.t2-shibuya.com City. Live performance by Aug 1-2, 1pm. ¥6,000- by the Wiener Philharmoniker SATURDAY 25 special guest Yumi Shizukusa. 10,800. Bunkamura Orchard and conducted by Christoph Womb ¥2,000. Omotesando. Hall. Shibuya. Tel: Exhibitions Eschenbach, who is currently The New Matrix Bar Cyclo. EDM: DJs Takaoka, April, Tel: 03-6438-9240. www. 03-3477-9111. http://j.mp/ music director of both the Saturday Night Fever. etc. From 10pm. ¥1,500 w/1d. clubarctokyo.com orchardhallballet2015 ENDING SOON National Symphony Orchestra Hip-hop, R&B, reggae: DJ Ykk Shibuya. Tel: 03-5459-0039. and the John F. Kennedy Center and more. From 6pm. ¥1,000 www.womb.co.jp FRIDAY 31 The Irish Dance Ragús Handiwirman Saputra: for the Performing Arts. Oct 4-8, (after 10pm). Roppongi. A show of live, fast-moving Material Matters various times. ¥13,000-35,000. www.matrixbar.jp TUESDAY 28 The New Matrix Bar traditional Irish music, Showcasing works by Suntory Hall. Roppongi- Matrix Friday. Old-school song, and dance wherein Indonesian artist Saputra, itchome. Tel: 0570-55-0017. The Room Ruby Room hip-hop, west side, south side, audiences feel the pulse of who was initially known for http://j.mp/wienerweek2015 Jazztronica. Jazz, house: Open Mic. From 7pm. ¥1,500 all mix: DJ Ykk and more. From a rich and vibrant musical his installations of objects DJs Nozaki, Shuya Okino, w/2d. Shibuya. Tel: 03-3780- 6pm. ¥1,000 (after 11:30pm). heritage and come away with such as thread, wire, and bits Jazz meets Classic etc. From 9pm. ¥2,500 w/1d. 3022 (evenings) / 070-6969- Roppongi. www.matrixbar.jp a truly enjoyable and unique of paper that were presented Pianist Makoto Ozone Shibuya. www.theroom.jp 4816 (daytime). www. cultural experience. Sep 19, practically just as they were. takes on classical pieces rubyroomtokyo.com Air 12:30 & 4pm. ¥5,000-8,000. Until Jul 25, 11am-7pm, with world-renowned jazz Air Eureka. House: DJs Atjazz, Bunkamura Orchard Hall. closed Sun, Mon, & hols. Free. saxophonist Branford Marsalis Sadar Bahar. House: DJs Air Endo, etc. From 10pm. ¥3,500. Shibuya. Tel: 03-3477-9111. Tolot/heuristic Shinonome. and the Tokyo Metropolitan Sadar Bahar, Kensei, etc. From The Choice. Techno: DJs Shibuya. Tel: 03-5784-3384. Sep 20, 2pm. ¥5,000-8,000. Shinonome. www.heuristic. Symphony Orchestra. Oct 24, 10pm. ¥3,500. Shibuya. Igarashi, Haruka, etc. www.air-tokyo.com Tokyo Opera City Concert com/tolot

23 Helene Schjerfbeck: Gallery. Edogawabashi. Tel: down, indoors, and imagining Reflections 03-6233-9836. http://j.mp/ exploring the actual landscape, Showcasing works by gotopleasure2015 enjoy imagining the sounds Finnish painter Schjerfbeck, suggested by the scenes who’s most widely known Mega Dinosaur Exhibition depicted in this exhibition. for her realist works and Featuring the restored skeleton Jul 30-Sep 6, 10am-5pm, self-portraits. Until Jul 26, of the Turiasaurus found in closed Mon. ¥700-900 (adv)/ 10am-5pm, closed Mon. Spain, believed to be the ¥800-1,000 (door). Nezu ¥800-1,300 (adv)/ ¥1,000- largest dinosaur ever found in Museum. Omotesando. 1,500 (door). The University Europe. Until Aug 30, 9:30am- Tel: 03-3400-2536. www. Art Museum. Ueno. 5pm. ¥800-1,600 (adv)/ ¥1,000- nezu-muse.or.jp/en/exhibitions/ Tel: 050-5525-2200. 2,000 (door). Makuhari Messe. next.html http://helene-fin.exhn.jp Kaihin-Makuhari. http:// mega2015.jp Legendary artists of Ukiyo-e War Pictures: Japanese Western Painting Kuniyoshi, Yoshitoshi, Cy Twombly: Fifty Years of Held in celebration of the Kiyochika Works on Paper centennial of the NIKA Showcasing ukiyo-e prints Featuring around 70 drawings, Exhibition, explore the history that depict historical battles, paintings, and monotypes of 20th-century Japanese art this exhibition examines the by Twombly, an American from the Nika Association. objectives with which these painter of large-scale, freely Until Sep 6, 9:30am-5:30pm war-themed pictures were scribbled, calligraphic, and (until 9pm on Fri), closed Mon. created, along with how these graffiti-like works. Until Aug 30, ¥600-1,300 (adv)/ ¥800-1,500 objectives are presented 11am-5pm (until 8pm on Wed), (door). Tokyo Metropolitan in the pictures. Until Jul 26, closed Mon. ¥500-1,100. Hara Art Museum. Ueno. Tel: 10:30am-5:30pm, closed Museum of Contemporary Art. 03-3823-6921. http://j.mp/ Mon. ¥500-700. Ukiyo-e Shinagawa. Tel: 03-3445- nikacentennial2015 Ota Memorial Museum 0651. www.haramuseum.or.jp of Art. Harajuku. Tel: Art Nouveau Glass 03-3403-0880. http://j.mp/ Mechanisms Unraveled: Featuring pieces which ukiyoewarpictures2015 How Ideas Are Cast Into include some of the finest Shape works of glass produced by Tokyo Story 2015 A program for kids designed the Art Nouveau movement Showcasing works by artists to explore the ways in which in Paris and Nancy. Until who participated in Tokyo artists create their work, and Sep 6, 10am-6pm, closed Wonder Site’s Creator in the process by which they Wed. ¥500-1,000. Shiodome Residence program. Until transform their ideas into works Museum. Shimbashi. Tel: Jul 26, 11am-7pm. Free. of art. Until Aug 30, 11am-6pm, 03-5777-8600. http://meturl. Tokyo Wonder Site Hongo. closed Mon. Free. NTT com/panasonicmuseum Ochanomizu, Suidōbashi, Intercommunication Center. or Hongō-sanchōme. Tel: Hatsudai. Tel: 0120-144199. Urameshiya: Art of the 03-5689-5331. http://j.mp/ www.ntticc.or.jp/index_e.html Ghost tokyostory2015 Featuring Zenshoan Temple’s Erik Satie and His Time collection of ghost paintings. Tanomura Chikuden Exhibition focusing on the Until Sep 13, 10am-5pm, Commemorating the 180th activities of French composer closed Mon. ¥600-900 anniversary of the death of Satie, portraying his lesser- (adv)/ ¥700-1,100 (door). the artist Tanomura, who known side through the works The University Art Museum. loved the art of calligraphy of artists who inspired him and Ueno. Tel: 050-5525-2200. and poetry. Until Aug 2, who were inspired by him. Until www.tokyo-np.co.jp/event/ 10am-5pm (until 7pm on Fri), Aug 30, 10am-7pm (until 9pm urameshiya closed Mon. ¥700-1,000. on Fri & Sat). ¥500-1,200 (adv)/ Idemitsu Museum of Arts. ¥700-1,400 (door). Bunkamura: Cleopatra and the Queens Tokyo. www.idemitsu.com/ The Museum. Shibuya. of Egypt museum/honkan/ Tel: 03-5777-8600. Explore the life of Cleopatra http://j.mp/satie2015 and other queens of Egypt who ONGOING had great influence over the Fukagawa in the Snow: The country’s politics and religion. World Press Photo Reappearance of an Until Sep 23, 9:30am-5pm Showcasing the winning Utamaro Masterpiece (until 8pm on Fri and 6pm on photos of the 2015 World Showcasing works by Utamaro, Sat, Sun, & hols), closed Mon. Press Photo Contest, which one of the most highly regarded ¥600-1,300 (adv)/ ¥800-1,500 has encouraged the highest ukiyo-e practitioners, especially (door). Tokyo National Museum. standards in photojournalism for his portraits of beautiful Ueno. http://egypt2015.jp/ for more than 55 years. Until women, or bijin-ga. Until english Aug 9, 10am-5pm. ¥350-700 Aug 31, 9am-5pm. ¥1,800- (adv)/ ¥400-800 (door). 2,800. Okada Museum of Art. Art Deco in Residence Tokyo Metropolitan Theatre. Kowakidani. Tel: 0460-87- Separated into two Ikebukuro. 3931. www.okada-museum. sub-exhibitions titled “Looking Tel: 03-5391-2111. com/en at Architecture 2015” which www.asahi.com/event/wpph invites the audience to take Art in Wonderland a closer look at the museum Leonardo da Vinci and the A modern, interactive art building itself, and “Art Deco Battle of Anghiari: The exhibition with installations Collectors” which showcases Mystery of Travola Doria focusing on light and shadow, a variety of reputed Art Deco A unique examination of the created by Japan’s leading works accumulated by art revolution in visual perception new-media artists. Jul 17-Aug collectors. Until Sep 23, that da Vinci spawned with his 31, 10am-6pm. ¥300-1,100 10am-6pm (until 9pm on Fri), work The Battle of Anghiari, (adv)/ ¥500-1,500 (door). closed on the second and fourth one of the largest mural Saitama Super Arena. Wed of the month. ¥400-800. projects he ever undertook. Saitama-Shintoshin. www. Tokyo Metropolitan Teien Until Aug 9, 10am-5pm, mahou-museum.com Art Museum. Meguro. Tel: closed Mon. ¥300-1,000 (adv)/ 03-3443-0201. http://j.mp/ ¥400-1,300 (door). Tokyo Manga, Anime, Games from artdecoinresidence2015 Fuji Art Museum. Hachioji Japan or Tokyo Fuji Bijitsukan. Tel: Focusing on the 25-year period Risaku Suzuki: Stream of 042-691-4511. http://j.mp/ from 1989 to the present, consciousness davincianghiari2015 this exhibition presents a For this exhibition—which takes comprehensive survey of “seeing” itself as its theme— Masahisa Fukase: The Japanese anime, manga, and Suzuki has chosen not to say in Incurable Egoist games—three genres that have words beforehand what he has Showcasing works by evolved into an integrated photographed. By confronting Fukase, one of the most form of media expression— the photograph before us influential figures in Japanese and provides visitors with an without preconceptions, photography, whose dignified opportunity to rediscover their conscious of all it depicts, we DON’T MISS AN ISSUE – SUBSCRIBE NOW! monotone images depict a imagination and creativity. will re-experience the world vicissitude of unique irony and Until Aug 31, 10am-6pm “seen” by Suzuki. Until Sep 23, unending loneliness. Until (until 8pm on Fri), closed Tue. 11am-7pm (until 8pm on Fri & Aug 14, 11:30am-9pm. Free. ¥300-800 (adv)/ ¥500-1,000 Sat), closed Mon. ¥800-1,200. Diesel Art Gallery. Shibuya. (door). The National Art Center, Tokyo Opera City Art Gallery. Tel: 03-5468-5481. http://j.mp/ Tokyo. Nogizaka. http://j.mp/ Hatsudai. www.operacity. egoistfukase2015 mangaanimegames2015 jp/en/ag One year (24 issues) ¥3,600. Half year (12 issues) ¥1,800. Yuka Goto: Pleasure Listening to Paintings: Rain, Crafts Gallery for Kids + One year corporate subscribers: 7-100 copies ¥22,560. Exhibition featuring Wind, Bird Songs, and Adults: Pika Boko—An Half year corporate subscribers: 7-100 copies ¥12,000. Tokyo-based artist and Human Voices Onomatopoetic Guide to Bank transfer or credit card (Visa, Mastercard, Diners Club). cartoonist Goto’s new series of As the Chinese literati Crafts three-dimensional paintings. used to enjoy what they Explore the world of crafts Jul 29-Aug 16, 1-7pm, closed called woyou, or enjoying a through onomatopoetic http://metropolisjapan.com/subscription Mon & Tue. Free. Hiromart landscape painting by lying descriptions of the works. Until

24 Sep 27, 10am-5pm, closed Okawara, who designed Dome. Suidōbashi. Tel: Fussa Tanabata Festival (adv)/ ¥1,200 (door). Tokyo 03-5276-3422. www. Mon. ¥70-210. The National robots, ships, and other 03-5800-9999. www.giants. Over 100 fair stalls, a folk Big Sight. Kokusai-Tenjijo- wineandcooking.info/en/ Museum of Modern Art, Tokyo. mechanical items for anime jp/en dance parade, contests, and Seimon. Tel: 03-5530-1111. winetesting.html Takebashi. Tel: 03-5777- such as Gundam and the Brave more to celebrate the yearly www.hmj-fes.jp 8600. http://j.mp/pikaboko2015 Series franchise. Aug 8-Sep Yakult Swallows vs. Tokyo meeting of Princess Orihime 27, 10am-5pm. ¥1,000-1,300 Giants and Hikoboshi. Aug 6-9, all Film The Exhibition of (adv)/ ¥1,200-1,500 (door). Aug 5-6, 6pm. ¥500-24,000. day. Free. Area around Fussa Markets Tokugawa’s Castles Ueno Royal Museum. Ueno. Meiji Jingu Baseball Stadium. station. Fussa or Ushihama. Japan Wildlife Film Festival See detailed paintings of www.okawara-ten.com Gaienmae. Tel: 03-3404- www.fussa-tanabata.com Antique Jamboree Featuring an international Tokugawa’s castles, including 8999. www.yakult-swallows. Haggle with dealers of wildlife film competition, film a computer-graphics animated Energy and Revival: The co.jp Tōrō Nagashi Festival Japanese, European, and U.S. screenings, special workshops, tour of its interior, and more. Art of Momoyama Floating lantern festival. Aug vintage collections. Aug 7 is a talk shows, and programs held Aug 4-Sep 27, 9:30am-5:30pm This exhibition showcases the Yomiuri Giants vs. 16, 6:30-8pm. Free. Sumida special ticket holders’ event by international collaborators (until 9pm on Fri & 7:30pm art of the Momoyama period Hiroshima Carp River Azuma Bridge Terrace. for early buyers only. Aug such as BBC, National on Sat). ¥470-1,140 (adv)/ with tea ceramics of the Aug 7, 6pm; Aug 8-9, 2pm. Asakusa. Tel: 03-3844-1221. 8-9, 10am-5pm. ¥800 (adv)/ Geographic, and Disney. ¥680-1,350 (door). Edo-Tokyo Shino, Oribe, and Karatsu ¥300-12,400. Tokyo Dome. http://j.mp/asakusatoronagashi ¥1,000 (door), ¥2,000 (early Aug 28-31, 10am-5pm. Free. Museum. Ryogoku. Tel: wares together with paintings Suidōbashi. Tel: 03-5800- buyer adv)/ ¥3,000 (early National Museum of Emerging 03-3626-9974. www. by the Kano school and 9999. www.giants.jp/en Super Yosakoi buyer door). Tokyo Big Sight. Science and Innovation. edo-tokyo-museum.or.jp/en Hasegawa Tohaku. Aug 8-Oct Large groups in traditional Kokusai-Tenjijo-Seimon. Telecom Center. www. 12, 10am-5pm (until 7pm on Yomiuri Giants vs. DeNA costume compete in Tel: 03-5530-1111. http://j. naturechannel.jp/JWFFE/ Yori Saito’s Gaze: Fri), closed Mon. ¥700-1,000. Baystars choreographed dances mp/antiquejamboree Celebrating the 130th Idemitsu Museum of Arts. Aug 11-13, 6pm. ¥300-12,400. originating from Kochi Birthday of a Nakamuraya Tokyo. www.idemitsu.com/ Tokyo Dome. Suidōbashi. Prefecture. Aug 29, 10am-8pm; Other Events Salon Painter museum/honkan Tel: 03-5800-9999. www. Aug 30, 10am-5:30pm. Free. Comedy Showcasing works by Saito, giants.jp/en Yoyogi Park. Harajuku. Club ARC Opening Party an artist at the forefront of The Last Impressionists: Tel: 03-3406-5572. www. New Material Night ARC, a new club in the modern Japanese yōga, Time of Intimacy Yakult Swallows vs. super-yosakoi.tokyo Standup, improv, and trying Omotesando mixing fashion, or Western painting, at the Showcasing works by artists Hanshin Tigers out new stuff. Aug 4 & music, and culture, opens it’s end of the Meiji era. Until Sep who were active in Paris during Aug 14-15, 6pm; Aug 16, INTERNATIONAL 18, 8-10pm. Free. Double doors with a special opening 27, 10:30am-7pm, closed Tue. the start of the 20th century, 5pm. ¥500-24,000. Meiji Tall Cafe. Shibuya. Tel: party. Jul 24-25, 10pm. ARC. ¥300. Nakamuraya Salon such as Carrière, Aman-Jean, Jingu Baseball Stadium. The Caribbean Latin 03-5467-4567. http:// Omotesando. Tel: 03-6438- Museum of Art. Shinjuku. and Le Sidaner. Sep 5-Nov Gaienmae. Tel: 03-3404- America Festival tokyocomedy.com/new_ 9240. www.clubarctokyo.com www.nakamuraya.co.jp/ 8, 10am-6pm (until 8pm on 8999. www.yakult-swallows. Enjoy Caribbean/Latin material_night museum Fri), closed Mon. ¥650-1,000 co.jp American cuisine, music, and Bolshoi Circus (adv)/ ¥800-1,200 (door). dance in Yoyogi Park! Aug 1, Stand-up Comedy at Consisting of 4,000 artists Leaps in Evolution: Tracing Sompo Japan Museum of Art. Yomiuri Giants vs. Hanshin 10am-8pm; Aug 2, 10am-7pm. The Hobgoblin and staff and more than the Path of Vertebrate Shinjuku. Tel: 03-5405- Tigers Free. Yoyogi Park. Harajuku Stand-up comedians with a 6,000 animals, the Bolshoi Evolution 8686. www.sjnk-museum.org Aug 18-20, 6pm. or Meijijingumae. http://j.mp/ variety of styles performing circus was established 78 Fantastic fossils of ¥300-12,400. Tokyo Dome. caribbeanlatinamerica2015 in English. Aug 20, years ago, and first came to porto-mammals are The Genesis and Suidōbashi. Tel: 03-5800- 9-10:30pm. Free. Hobgoblin Japan in 1958. Jul 18-26, presented alongside the Development of Landscape 9999. www.giants.jp/en 34th Asakusa Samba Shibuya. Shibuya. http:// various times. ¥3,700- latest DNA-based research Painting Carnival tokyocomedy.com/standup_ 6,200. Tokyo Taiikukan. findings, reconstructed Showcasing works from Yakult Swallows vs. Latin-style parade and dance comedy_at_the_hobgoblin Kokuritsu-kyogijo or models of prehistoric animals, Kunsthistorisches Museum, Chunichi Dragons contest. Aug 29, 1-6pm. Free. Sendagaya. and 4K video images to Wien of attractive European Aug 21-22, 6pm; Aug 23, Asakusa Umamichi-dori. www.bolshoicircus.com review the great journey of landscapes. Sep 9-Dec 5pm. ¥500-27,500. Meiji Asakusa. www.asakusa- Community vertebrate evolution. Until 7, 10am-7pm (until 9pm Jingu Baseball Stadium. samba.org Tokyo Midsummer Wine Oct 4, 9am-5pm (until 8pm on on Fri & Sat). ¥500-1,300 Gaienmae. Tel: 03-3404- Half-Fast Cyclists Festival Fri), closed Sep 7, 14, & 28. (adv)/ ¥700-1,500 8999. www.yakult-swallows. FIREWORKS Bicyclists of all treads meet Taste test 80 different ¥600-1,600. National Museum (door). Bunkamura: The co.jp for slideshows, lectures, varieties of wine, sparkling of Nature and Science. Ueno. Museum. Shibuya. Tel: Edogawa-ku Hanabi Taikai ride-planning, etc. Every wine, and brandy for free. Tel: 03-3822-0111. www. 03-5777-8600. http://j.mp/ Yakult Swallows vs. Tokyo Enjoy 75 minutes of non-stop second Wed, 7pm. Free. Until Aug 2, 11am-9pm. Free. seimei-ten.jp wienlandscape2015 Giants excitement beginning with The Pink Cow. Roppongi. Tokyo Midtown. Roppongi. Aug 25-27, 6pm. 1,000 fireworks going off Tel: 03-6434-5773. Tel: 03-3475-3100. www. Thomas & Friends Niki de Saint Phalle ¥500-24,000. Meiji in five seconds. Aug 1, www.thepinkcow.com tokyo-midtown.com/en Explore the world of the Showcasing works by French Jingu Baseball Stadium. 7:15-8:30pm. Free. Edogawa British children’s television sculptor and painter Saint Gaienmae. Tel: 03-3404- Kasenjiki, near Shinozaki Stitch-n-Bitch Tokyo Idol Festival series Thomas & Friends, Phalle, who created a garden 8999. www.yakult-swallows. Park. Shinozaki. http://j.mp/ Meet fellow knitters, The world’s biggest idol including original artwork, and called Giardino dei Tarocchi co.jp edogawahanabi2015 crocheters and sewers to festival bringing idol fans from learn about how the widely in Italy, containing sculptures talk, share ideas, eat, drink across the globe together. popular series began. Until of the symbols found on Yomiuri Giants vs. Itabashi Hanabi Taikai and create. Every first and Aug 1, 10am-10pm; Aug 2, Oct 12, 10am-6pm, closed Tarot cards. Sep 18-Dec 14, Chunichi Dragons Enjoy an array of fireworks, third Tue, 7pm. Free. Pariya. 10am-9pm. ¥6,600 (one day)/ Mon. ¥700-1,200. Museum 10am-6pm (until 8pm on Fri), Aug 28-29, 6pm; Aug 30, 2pm. including one that sprawls Shibuya. www.meetup. ¥10,780 (two days). Various of Contemporary Art Tokyo. closed Tue. ¥600-1,400 (adv)/ ¥300-12,400. Tokyo Dome. 360m across the sky. Aug com/TokyoStitchandBitch venues in the Odaiba/Aomi Kiyosumi-Shirakawa. www. ¥800-1,600. The National Art Suidōbashi. Tel: 03-5800- 1, 7-8:30pm. Free. Arakawa area. Daiba or Aomi. www. mot-art-museum.jp/eng Center, Tokyo. Nogizaka. 9999. www.giants.jp/en Nangan. Takashimadaira. Dr. Sketchy’s idolfes.com/2015/english.html www.niki2015.jp http://itabashihanabi.jp Anti-Art School Oscar Niemeyer: The Man VOLLEYBALL Burlesque models pose Showa Beer Garden Who Built Brasilia Captive Beauty: Treasures Hachioji Hanabi Taikai for veteran artists and Travel back in time at Grand A retrospective of one of from the Prado Museum FIVB Volleyball World Cup Held as part of the Hachioji sketching newbies alike Hyatt’s Showa Beer Garden Brazil’s leading architects Drawn entirely from the Japan senior women’s team Matsuri, the fireworks can with artsy socializing. Every with popular music from who is highly acclaimed for Prado’s extraordinary holdings, goes against Argentina, be viewed up close from the third Wed, 7-10pm. ¥2,000 the era; Showa-inspired his unique buildings that the exhibition brings together Russia, Cuba, Kenya, and Hachioji Shimin Kyujo. Aug w/ 1d. Studio and Space Japanese snacks; and harmonize organic curves with works by a range of illustrious the Dominican Republic. 1, 7-8:30pm. Free. Hachioji IVVA. Meiji-Jingūmae or free-flowing alcohol, modernism’s geometric forms. painters who contributed Aug 22-27, various times. Shimin Kyujo. Hachioji Harajuku. www.facebook. including beer, highballs, and Until Oct 12, 10am-6pm, significantly to the history of ¥1,000-10,000. Yoyogi or Yamada. www.hachioji- com/Dr.Sketchy.Tokyo more. Jul 16, 17, 23, 24 & 31; closed Mon. ¥600-1,100. European art, such as El Greco, National Gymnasium. kankokyokai.or.jp Aug 7, 5-9pm. ¥5,000. Grand Museum of Contemporary Art Goya, and Murillo. Oct 10-Jan Meiji-Jingumae. www.jva. Hyatt Tokyo. Roppongi. Tokyo. Kiyosumi-Shirakawa. 31, 10am-6pm (until 8pm on or.jp/en Kōtō Hanabi Taikai Learning http://tokyo.grand.hyatt.com www.mot-art-museum.jp/eng Fri), closed Mon. ¥1,500 (adv)/ The main viewing area offers ¥1,000-1,700 (door). Mitsubishi an impressive, close-up view of SEP 10 Disney on Ice: Amazing What is Realist Painting? Ichigokan Museum. Tokyo. Festivals the fireworks being launched Anniversary Exploring the diversity Tel: 03-5405-8686. http:// from a boat on the Arakawa Watch your favorite Disney and potential of realist mimt.jp/prado/eng TRADITIONAL River. Aug 4, 7:40-8:30pm. characters, including Elsa painting through 54 works of Free. Arakawa River, near and Anna from Frozen, landscapes, figures, and more. Kagurazaka Matsuri Arakawa Sunamachi Mizube dance on ice! Jul 18-22, Until Nov 15, 10am-5:30pm, Sports Awa Odori performances, Park. Minami-Sunamachi. various times. ¥2,900-6,000. closed Tue. ¥900-1,800. Hoki a lantern plant market and Tel: 03-3647-4963. Yoyogi National Gymnasium. Museum. Toke. BASEBALL more. Jul 22-23, 5:30-10pm; Meiji-Jingumae. Aug www.hoki-museum.jp/en Jul 24-25, 7-9pm. Free. Tokyo Wan Dai Hanabi Sai 20-24, various times. ¥2,900- Yakult Swallows vs. Kagurazaka shopping Fireworks festival held by World Suicide 6,000. Yokohama Arena. Open Space 2015 Chunichi Dragons district. Kagurazaka. www. Chuo-ku, with around 12,000 Prevention Day Shin-Yokohama. http://j. Explore an array of Jul 24-26, 6pm. ¥500-27,500. kagurazaka.in fireworks launched. A ticket TELL 2nd Suicide Awareness mp/disneyonice2015 representative, historical, Meiji Jingu Baseball Stadium. is required to enter the Talkie Walkie. Sep 10 in Kanto. and new works from the Gaienmae. Tel: 03-3404- Asagaya Tanabata Festival Harumi viewing area. Aug 8, Plan your own walk or join an realm of media art, as well as 8999. www.jingu-stadium. Asagaya’s 700m-long 6:50-8:10pm. Free. Harumi existing walk and help raise results of research activities com/english covered arcade gets Terminal Park. Kachidoki. awareness about suicide at educational institutions. festooned with colorful Tel: 03-3248-1561. prevention. Visit our website Until Mar 6, 11am-6pm, Yakult Swallows vs. decorations. Aug 5-9, all day. at www.telljp.com for details closed Mon. Free. NTT Hiroshima Carp Free. Asagaya Pearl Center. and registration. Intercommunication Center. Jul 28-30, 6pm. ¥500-27,500. Asagaya. www.asagaya. Forums & Hatsudai. Tel: 0120-144199. Meiji Jingu Baseball Stadium. or.jp Expos http://j.mp/openspace2015 Gaienmae. Tel: 03-3404- Australia vs. France Wine 8999. www.yakult-swallows. Ueno Summer Festival HandMade in Japan Fes Challenge UPCOMING co.jp Paper lanterns, ice Creators of art, fashion, Learn about wine and enjoy a sculptures, antique markets, jewelry, and more will gather French gourmet dinner in an MORE LISTINGS Mechanic Designer Yomiuri Giants vs. and more. Jul 11-Aug 9, to sell their work, and provide international atmosphere. Jul ONLINE → HTTP:// Okawara Kunio Exhibition Chunichi Dragons various times. Free. Ueno workshops and a chance to 25, 7pm. ¥11,980 + tax (adv). Featuring works by Jul 31-Aug 1, 6pm; Aug 2, Park. Ueno. Tel: 03-3828- meet talented individuals. Restaurant Aux Bacchanales. METURL.COM/ mechanical designer 2pm. ¥300-12,400. Tokyo 5644. www.ueno.or.jp Jul 25-26, 11am-7pm. ¥1,000 Akasaka-Mitsuke. Tel: LISTINGS

25 Metropolis and its Classifieds professional background. Gentleman/ Korean and Japanese. Japanese male, section are printed every other week. The upcoming lady only. Thank you. elegant. 42, seeks a native Korean speaker for publication dates and [email protected] Kor/J exchange. I like music, reading, cooking. I hope we can learn from each corresponding deadlines English and Japanese. JF seeks an for print are as follows. This other and have some fun. astralsky@ exchange partner in the daytime on does not affect the online excite.co.jp Classifieds, where ads are weekdays at Kawasaki Stn. tome. visible immediately after [email protected] Spanish and Japanese. Native Spanish they are approved. speaker sought for occasional language English and Japanese. British man, exchange in Tokyo. Let’s hang out and RENTAL APARTMENTS, 35, seeks language exchange partner. HOUSES, CONDOS AND practice your Japanese! tempstadesjp@ FRI, AUG 7, ISSUE I have lived in Japan for a long time, but gmail.com Deadline: July 30, 3pm STUDIOS in Yokohama, my Japanese level is very low. Help. Kawasaki, Tokyo, and near Anywhere around Tokyo is ok. Seeking 英語と日本語. オーストラリア人で FRI, AUG 21 ISSUE US military bases. English- a fun exchange. happylamp@hotmail. す。英会話教師として、12年間。 Deadline: Aug 13, 3pm speaking staff will guide you co.uk 渋谷の周辺。高学歴者お願。 through the renting process. [email protected] For a stress-free search, English and Japanese. European contact Rent Life. 045-470- guy, highly educated, in central Tokyo, 英語と日本語。僕はイギリス人 . available for language exchange. Got 毎日日本語を勉強してる. でも LOOK 10 YEARS YOUNGER. 3214 www.rent-yokohama. 1 AT YOUR SERVICE 1.7 BUSINESS SERVICES com/english e-yokohama@r- some free time? Text me. Let's visit an 言語交換にいつも失敗しちゃう. CustomYoga removes stress and izakaya together. donl3on@yahoo. [email protected] anxiety, making you look years life.co.jp 1.1 HEALTH co.uk younger. Your office, apartment, 3.6 LEARNING: GENERAL or our studio. Day and evening English and Japanese. I'm a Japanese

sessions. Beginners welcome. female seeking E-J exchange partners

[email protected] in the Yokohama or Shinagawa areas

080-4945-5055 for conversation over a cup of coffee.

I like the internet, traveling, music, THINKING ABOUT 1.2 HAIR & BEAUTY IMMIGRATION LAWYER AT movies and Gold's Gym. Let's have fun ADVERTISING WITH exchanging languages! shimatakeichi@ NIPPASHI OFFICE supports METROPOLIS? Platinum visa and naturalization yahoo.co.jp http://murasakinoasa. ¥32,400. Gold ¥27,000. Silver blog112.fc2.com applications, company ¥21,600. Prices include one establishment and English and Japanese. Native British photo. Bronze ¥2000 (photo IKEBANA (JAPANESE GENERAL DENTISTRY. branch office installation, + ¥2000). Prices are for 40 male seeking language exchange with American dental school including commercial a Japanese person who owns their own TRADITIONAL FLORAL words, one print issue, two ARRANGEMENT) is a powerful graduate, 20 years’ registration, as well as weeks online. For details, business or works in a restaurant or bar. experience in hospital inheritance procedures in [email protected] means of self-expression. Trial email us at commercial@ lesson, including all materials dentistry, over 2000 CURLY HAIR SPECIALIST IN Japan. Free consultation metropolisjapan.com. dental implants, native TOKYO. English-speaking available in English, English and Japanese. E/J exchange ¥4000. No Japanese for book writing on healing field of necessary. Certification, English speaker; 3min Kiyoko, highly experienced Español and Japanese. interest. Ikebukuro area. winds_fr@ diploma can be earned. Three from JR Harajuku Stn, in NY’s curly hair salons, Tel: 03-6264-8446 hotmail.com classroom locations in Tokyo. parking available. Will takes care of curly hair at [email protected] Website: www.atelier-soka. fill out insurance forms. her salon, Nepenji, in Ebisu. http://nippashi.com English and Japanese. Interesting, com/english/index.html [email protected] Reservations: 03-3793- well-educated, cute SJM seeks www.trustdental.jp/english 2357 or [email protected] VISA COUNSELING: native English speakers in Tokyo for Email: [email protected] 03-3402-1501 http://english.nepenji.net/ female immigration lawyer SERVICED APARTMENTS a language exchange. Let's meet index_en.html handles your visa case. in a quiet residential area once or twice/week to improve our 3.9 TEACH ME! Permanent residency, of Hiroo. Studios and language abilities. I'm sure that it'll be C H I E naturalization, eligibility suites. 4min from Hiroo a wonderful experience. Just email me. TRANSLATION FOR ENGLISH FUNAKURA, [email protected] (inviting your spouse/ Stn. Rates: Daily ¥7800. LESSONS. Working towards the stylist children/workers from Weekly ¥6850-/day. becoming an English-to-Japanese and coloring English and Japanese. I'm open your country), extension/ Monthly ¥5700-/day. Over for language exchange in central translator, but need help polishing specialist change of visa status. three months ¥5130-/day. my English. Can translate simple H a r p e r ’ s Tokyo. White, 40, highly educated. Consultation ¥5000. OFFICE Tax, utilities included. [email protected] documents in exchange for English B a z a a r LIFE (Miho Fujibayashi). frontdesk@azabucourt. lessons. [email protected] Australia English and Japanese. Japanese lady ENGLISH-SPEAKING ADA- Tel: 090-8330-0670 Email: com www.azabucourt.com named the best in Tokyo, [email protected] Website: 03-3446-8610 seeks a native speaker of American English lessons. JM, 35, seeks native CERTIFIED DENTAL CLINIC finally opens her own salon in English for language exchange. Please in Toranomon Hills offers a http://officelife.jp/en English teacher for reasonably priced Harajuku! Book now for your send me a message if you are interested. lessons at a cafe in central Tokyo. wide range of preventive, own personalized fashion Serious only. Thanks! suka_suka_usa@ corrective and cosmetic CREATIVE SOLUTIONS. [email protected] experience. 03-6434-5219 Specialists in branding, web ezweb.ne.jp dentistry. Superior service silvapapilio.com contact@ Ping-pong, swimming, cooking for 英 focused on customer design, photo/video production. English and Japanese. JF seeks silvapapilio.com Drawing A Crowd: a new approach 会話. 卓球, 水泳, 料理, 日本語得意 satisfaction and convenience. language exchange partner around Please teach me! I can teach in design. Get in touch. info@ ですか？ Open until 10pm. Modern Ebisu. I'm working in the fashion you English. Asian-American male, 30s. drawingacrowd.co dentistry at its best. industry, so I'd prefer people interested Email me. [email protected] www.rmdcc.com/english in fashion . [email protected] 0120-648-071 2 FIND A PLACE 3 EDUCATION English and Japanese. JF, around 4 HOUSEHOLD GOODS 40, TOEIC 980, is seeking a language 2.1 GUESTHOUSE 3.2 JAPANESE TEACHERS exchange partner to correct her written 4.1 FURNITURE & FITTINGS English emails/journals/reports. I can JAPANESE LESSONS. Serious correct yours, too. Meeting in Tokyo is Bed, Muji, single, w/headboard, legs. Japanese lessons from ESTHETIQUE SALON LE also fine. [email protected] New ¥32,000. Sell ¥20,000. Ikea experienced teacher along the LIT MEGURO, an English- mattress. New ¥12,000. Sell ¥7500. Yamanote Line in Tokyo. Lesson English and Japanese. Japanese seeks speaking beauty salon with Free delivery. [email protected] COMPREHENSIVE HEALTH fee: free. Let’s enjoy Japanese a serious partner to study together. COVERAGE FOR EXPATS, highly skilled staff, is like 08032486108 your own secret paradise lessons and culture. Please call [email protected] DIPLOMATS, TEACHERS. Setsuko at 090-1210-9285. Email: Curtains, two, in excellent condition, hardly Inpatient and outpatient where you can relax English and Japanese. Hi, Canadian completely. Trial price for CREA-UN UENO. Furnished nihongo1234567812345678@ male, 30, in Ebisu, seeks language used. New ¥22,000. Sell ¥10,000. Pick up care, emergencies, surgery, yahoo.co.jp Hon-Komagome. [email protected] meds, checkups, dental, lab your first visit, tax included: private rooms, w/digital exchange on weekday mornings/ tests, MRI and more. Thirty- Body Deep Tissue Massage locks, near Asakusa, afternoons. I work all over, so Desk, Galant, and Markus office chair, day money-back guarantee. (60min) ¥4980 (regular price Ueno, Skytree. Safe area, 3.4 ENGLISH TEACHERS Kanagawa/east Tokyo ok, too. 同僚と green, hardly used, as new ¥5000/both. Quick, easy application; ¥8640). Facial Moisture female-only, rooftop いつも英語だけ使うから日本語で Pick up only Himonya. djconcise2001@ convenient payment Treatment (60min) ¥4980 garden w/nice view, BBQ ENGLISH CLASSES. Qualified 話したいです。 [email protected] yahoo.com options. Enroll today! (regular price ¥9720). Hours: space, free bicycle. From English teacher (Ireland) offers 9am-6pm; closed Wed ¥56,000/m. Utilities German and Japanese. JF seeks Ger/J [email protected] online (Skype) classes in business, language exchange partner. Seit Sechs 4.2 APPLIANCES www.earthhealthcare.jp www.lelitmeguro.com/ included. No key money/ TOEFL and conversation. Over English.html welcome@ guarantor. crea-un. Monaten lerne ich Deutsch aber ich 078-351-7300 15 years’ experience in TEFL/ spreche Englisch. F/M ok. If interested, Laminator, w/pouch film, A4 and A3, 100 lelitmeguro.com 090-3913- [email protected] http:// business English. €10/h (¥1350). pieces each ¥4900. tsuneokobayashi@ 8044 www.sakura-ko-bo.com drop me a line. gardenstate2005@ Contact: gringolingo2000@yahoo. hotmail.com hotmail.com 03-6912-0692 com German, Japanese, English. I'm Washer, Aqua, still under four-year warranty ¥18,000. Sharp microwave 2.2 RENT UNDER ¥200,000 3.5 LANGUAGE EXCHANGE a Japanese woman, divorced, 40s, seeking a native German or English ¥3500. Pick up Shinjuku. manusinjuku@ gmail.com English and Japanese. Open-minded speaker to meet in the Tokyo or Japanese female, 23-40, sought for Kanagawa area. German beginner, basic language exchange and socializing. level of English. [email protected] 4.3 SAYONARA SALE SPORTS PHYSIOTHERAPY Serious only. Call Bobby at 090- Indonesian, Japanese, English. Sayonara sale! Desk, w/panel/ (physical therapy) 5589-6864 or 080-8118-4073 or email Japanese lady seeks a native speaker light; shelves; red sofabed; Japanese care in Hiroo. MEN’S BARBERSHOP IN [email protected]. Native English-speaking ROPPONGI WELCOMES ICHII CORPORATION. of Indonesian for language exchange. textbooks; chests of drawers; juicer. therapists specializing FOREIGNERS. English- Over 600 affordable, quality- English and Japanese. UK guy, 42, Please send me a message if you are Details, photos available. mneuber@ in sports injuries, speaking assistant will get furnished apartments in wants a language exchange partner interested. Serious only. Thanks! suka_ gmail.com in Tokyo. Hopefully you aren't an old [email protected] post-operative rehabilitation, your haircut right. Haircuts central Tokyo locations. No Sayonara sale! Epson PC, w/monitor, in bat. Let's have fun! stevendorrans@ back/neck pain, running ¥4800. With shave ¥5800. key money/guarantor/agent Korean and English. very good condition ¥9000/obo. Deluxe yahoo.com 한국어가능 related, headaches, orthotics, Kids’ haircuts ¥4000- fee required. New, clean 하는영국남잔데일본에 서사는 German sandwich/waffle maker ¥4000. ergonomic consultations ¥4400. First-time discount apartments, simple contract English and Japanese. Happy to teach 한국친구찾고있다. 요즘일 HP all-in-one printer ¥4500. iMac Pro and women’s health. ¥1000. http://oazo.biz/top system, full English support. you decent/elegant/sophisticated 어배우고있고한국어안쓰기땜 ¥20,000. New deluxe TV stand ¥7000. www.tokyophysio.com 03-5545-7797 oazo7797@ Call us today! 03-5437-5233 Japanese. In return, would like to learn 에한국어거의다까먹었나봐. New bookshelf ¥4000. takecareletsgo@ 03-3443-6769 yahoo.co.jp www.japt.co.jp same level of E. SJF, 44, solid academic/ [email protected] yahoo.com

26 Sayonara sale! TV, fridge, whiteboard, leaked so have been changed, SRAM Seeking Japanese speaker for trip sofabed, weights, vacuum, mattress shifters and derailleurs, RaceFace to Ryukyukan. Hi! In Oct, I’d like to go and frame, electric heater, etc. Pick cranks, Magura 100XC forks, Mavic rims, to Ryukyukan/Gaikaku in Kasukabe, up only near Shinonome/Tatsumi Stn. five y/o. New ¥350,000. Sell ¥150,000. Saitama, but they only allow non- [email protected] https://twitter.com/ [email protected] Japanese speakers accompanied by a BaiBaiTokyoSale Japanese speaker. azzakwan@gmail. 7 GENERAL com 4.4 TV & HOME THEATER Sponsorship. Ten years’ experience 7.1 PHONES in cafe/bar work, including working at LED TV 46”, Sony Bravia KDL-46HX900, international hotels. I’d like to open in excellent condition, w/remote, iPhone 6 64GB, SoftBank, used less than a cafe/bar, but need sponsorship. manuals, BCAS card, Wi-Fi adapter, one week ¥55,000. Photos available by Individuals and Cloud Funders welcome. 3D transmitter, original box, and Ikea request. [email protected] Please, if interested, let us come to an Hemnes wooden TV stand ¥80,000. agreement. samueladonkor@gmail. [email protected] Smartphone, Lumia 640 LTE, latest model, 8GB RAM, opened box for testing, com 090-6152-6274 LED TV 60”, Sharp LC-60LE920UN, as unlocked, imported from the UK, as new, no bad pixels/light bleed, w/I-O new ¥25,000. [email protected] 10.2 SUPPORT Data GV-MVP/XZ3 ¥60,000. Pick up 08041742054 Yoyogi. [email protected] 7.2 FASHION TV 55”, Sony KDL HX850, bought at Yodobashi. New ¥230,000. Bag, Lime, unisex, black leather and Sell ¥125,000. Shipping included. [email protected] nylon (42x32), bought on Rakuten last year, clean, no marks, hardly used. New PHONE COUNSELOR TRAINING 4.6 FOR KIDS ¥19,000. Sell ¥5000. Meet Yamanote or Chuo Line. [email protected] PROGRAM. Fall ‘15 in Tokyo: Oct 3-Dec 5. In-person and online Karate gi and belt, for kids 3-12 Clothes, coat, brown ¥1000. Long- training sessions available. For ¥0-¥2000. [email protected] sleeved LL Bean shirt, size L, gray more info, visit www.telljp.com or Windbreaker, Puma, size 130cm, black, ¥300. Cecilene raincoat, size M, email [email protected]. in good condition ¥1000. Various kids’ ivory, slight stain on neck ¥500. Pick clothing, footwear (boots, rain boots, up or chakubarai. Photos available. sandals). Pick up or chakubarai. Photos [email protected] available. [email protected] 7.3 MISCELLANEOUS 4.7 FOR FREE THE JAPAN HELPLINE, 24 hours a Suitcase, 100L (80x50x30cm), on day, from anywhere, about anything. TV 32", Toshiba 32LC100, wheels, red zipper, hard case ¥500. From emergency assistance to approximately 10 y/o, in very good [email protected] simple questions. Visit www.jhelp. condition, fully functional. 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27 Many more classified ads online! Visit classifieds.metropolis.co.jp

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パートナーを探しています。 Seeking Just baked a cake, brewed good a partner to spend time with. If coffee– wish I could share them with Seeking free hug. Japanese interested, please send me an email and special you. I’d love to offer you other man, 20s, seeks a free hug let’s get to know each other. hiro11923@ lovely goodies... hehe. Bet you’d from a woman in Tokyo. gmail.com love all! Intelligent Oriental beauty, I don't care about your nice figure, 46, seeks a mature single ethnicity or nationality, and マッサージが好きな日本人女性。 businessman. ocean1414bebe@gmail. English guy, 28. I learned some massage I respect your thoughts, com and want to learn more. マッサージで cultural background and きる、される方歓迎 . wasabichris@ Little M woman seeking man. SJF, gender identity. Thank you. gmail.com 30s, independent, not rich, seeking [email protected]

31 RELATIONS WHAT IS NORMAL? BY GRACE BUCHELE MINETA

I know I joke about this all the time, but … really … living abroad changes you. It’s weird trying to talk to my friends and family back in Texas, because I have no idea what is “normal” anymore. Packed trains, seafood, constantly trying to “out-polite” whomever I’m talking to, or reading between the lines to figure out what their true feelings are ... that’s my life now. And when my husband asks what exactly I think “normal food” is—sushi? hamburgers? soba? pasta?—I have no idea how to answer.

「普通」って何？外国に住むと人は変わるといって、私はよくジョークを言います。もう何が” 普通”なのか分からなくなってしまったので、地元のテキサスで家族や友達と話すと変な感じがします。満員電車やシーフード、それに誰にでもすごく礼儀正しく話す必要がある敬語（会話の中や文脈から本音を感じとる必要もしばしば）これこそが今の私の人生です。夫に「普通の料理」って何だと思う？と聞かれた時は、「スシ？ハンバーガー？そば？パスタ？」と思い悩んで、答えられなかった私でした。

■ Grace Buchele Mineta is an author who blogs and draws comics about her daily life in Japan at www.HowIBecameTexan.com. horoscope ♥ Love ¥ Money ♣ Luck BY CATHRYN MOE

ARIES TAURUS GEMINI CANCER Mar 21-Apr 20 ♥♥♥ ¥¥ ♣♣♣♣ Apr 21-May 21 ♥♥ ¥¥¥ ♣♣♣ May 22-Jun 21 ♥♥ ¥¥ ♣♣♣♣ Jun 22-Jul 23 ♥♥♥ ¥¥¥ ♣♣♣ Good news, and just in time! Mercury Taurus needs lots of cuddles; don’t say Without major planetary bodies in Although a large part of the zodiac and the Sun combine to bring out the it’s not true. If you’re on a long, hugless Gemini, you should feel free. But is is making their way through sticker best light and heart you’re willing streak, no day is a good day. So treat there the tiniest—OK, bigger than a bushes and devious dealings, you to share on Friday. This continues during the yourself to a massage, turn up the bubbles on blip—bit of business unfinished? Venus moves have a life raft floating through the stars. week, with your creative spark ramped up to the Jacuzzi (if you can get near one), and sink retrograde right onto the cusp of your solar Neptune and Chiron currently make it slippery new heights. Romance is at a greater intensity, into your deep, wonderful self. Mars in your fourth house Friday. For the next few weeks to pin down what should be easy. But in trine too. Continue to put energy into your lifestyle at solar third house means taking action brings … well, six, you get a chance to reconsider a aspect to your Sun, these celestial bodies home, or upgrade your actual abode. Mars’ focus comfort. Life at home has been exhausting, but financial choice regarding your home. The Sun show clearly the bigger picture. You’re on your lasts only two more weeks. you’re about to see a return. conjunct Mercury makes it easy to speak up. way to a different galaxy; “life breathes you.”

LEO VIRGO LIBRA SCORPIO Jul 24-Aug 23 ♥♥ ¥ ¥ ♣♣♣ Aug 24-Sep 23 ♥♥♥ ¥¥¥ ♣♣ Sep 24-Oct 23 ♥♥♥♥ ¥¥ ♣♣♣ Oct 24-Nov 22 ♥♥♥ ¥¥¥ ♣♣ Happy Birthday to Leos born in late The power players are out and As much as you are being pushed Holding true to your perspective may July! The power of Jupiter in your about, trying to push your buttons or into new territory, you’re also having have been a tug of war lately. It’s not sign can sway an audience. This goes show who’s in charge—but the truth to let go of something. Seeing it as that you won’t change your mind; it’s for work colleagues, judges, and juries, too. Let is, you are. The more you choose not to react, the past may be painful, but it doesn’t mean just that when you do, it changes back to its yourself be a beacon for light, as Jupiter is in the freer you become. It doesn’t matter who’s it’s lost. This is more a time when your view of original position. The Moon in Scorpio over Leo for a reason. Mercury and the Sun connect on top of the heap, because you’re carving out people and the meaning behind your connec- the weekend is great for spooky games and in Leo as well. The stars are aligned for you to your own destiny. In the midst of finding your tions has room for revision. It’s likely the south videos, sexy wardrobe upgrades, and smol- enjoy a stellar week. Mars is preparing you to niche, you suddenly realize just how wonderful node in your relationship sector is already call- dering looks over candlelight. pounce on something soon. you are. Such is the power of Dark Moon Lilith. ing you to release your expectations.

SAGITTARIUS CAPRICORN AQUARIUS PISCES Nov 23-Dec 22 ♥♥♥♥ ¥¥ ♣♣♣ Dec 23-Jan 20 ♥♥ ¥¥¥¥ ♣♣♣ Jan 21-Feb 19 ♥♥♥ ¥¥ ♣♣♣♣ Feb 20-Mar 20 ♥♥♥♥ ¥¥ ♣♣

The heaviness from Saturn in your Growing up is hard—and some peo- Let’s look at a pattern which is not What you planned to do this morn- solar 12th house could just be shad- ple are more grown up to start with. easy to pinpoint. Neptune and Chiron ing could blossom into a whole new ows. It’s worth it to turn on the light, Capricorns mature at an accelerated in your solar second house of earned cherry tree by afternoon. Following however. Mercury conjuncts the Sun on Friday pace. Due to a special Capricornian trait, you income holds a potential financial deception. your instincts may not seem completely logical as they both are in Leo, helping you slip into a can feel younger starting now. Freeing yourself This in turn inspires true spiritual strength, until after you do it. The tricky part is taking that better situation. Spiritually, too, it’s easier to of the fetters that society ties you down with, inspired by Chiron, who wounds you first so leap of faith, especially if someone or something get a handle on the larger, if not confusing, taking care of yourself and letting others do the you consciously learn to heal. However, Venus is blocking your path. Part of the discovery pro- picture. If you’re involved in a legal situation, same, you begin to glow and laugh again. Friday, has just retrograded into your eighth house of cess may be the detour. Chiron in Pisces gives you you may receive positive news this week. you’re able to speak from the heart. inheritance and other people’s money. Some- time to practice the art of trust. thing is unfinished.

32 LINGO BOX Izen (以前) = Previously Dentōteki ( ) = Traditional Authorities in Shimane mobilized a taskforce of 50 police 伝統的 officers to find out who had been stealing windshield Kojin jōhō (個人情報) = Personal info wipers from the cars of local residents. It turns out the the small print Sonzai (存在) = Existence culprits were crows, which use the rubber to build nests. BY STEVE TRAUTLEIN Karasu (カラス) = Crow

“DEVOTE YOURSELF TO YOUR STUDIES AND YOUR WORK WITH YOUTHFUL AMBITION, AND DO IT TO THE stats FULLEST WITH VIGOR, JOYFULLY AND CHEERFULLY.” ¥163 BILLION Original cost estimate for —From a recently-disclosed letter by Toshihira Inoguchi, captain of the World War the new National Stadium, which will be II battleship Musashi, to his eldest son used as the main venue for the 2020 Tokyo Olympics OFFICIAL BUSINESS rocket carrying a cargo vessel filled with food ⊲⊲In what’s being described as an “unusual and water to the International Space Station. ¥252 BILLION Revised estimate, move,” Prince Akishino and Princess Kiko re- ⊲⊲Also onboard the craft will be a telescope de- according to sports minister Hakubun leased a statement on the occasion of their veloped by researchers at Waseda University Shimomura 25th wedding anniversary. “for ascertaining the existence of dark matter.” Official development ⊲⊲The prince said he appreciates his wife even ¥750 BILLION assistance pledged by Prime Minister though “she may be frustrated as he rarely YOUTH WILL BE SERVED Shinzo Abe to the Mekong region over the puts the feeling into words.” ⊲⊲Police in Yokohama detained a 15-year-old next three years ⊲⊲It was reported that municipal officials nation- boy who “implied” in an online video that he wide are increasingly reluctant to issue permits would fly a drone over the Sanja Matsuri in May. for events that deal with issues such as nuclear ⊲⊲The boy had previously raised more than ¥1 of Poland has become the first foreign-born power and government-secrecy legislation. million by posting videos of his drones flying shogi player to receive a three-kyu ranking. over well-known tourist destinations. ⊲⊲Officials at the Tokyo Chamber of Commerce NEWS FROM THE LAB ⊲⊲It was reported—somewhat breathlessly— and Industry fear the personal data of more ⊲⊲A research team that included scientists that the traditional ball-and-cup toy known as than 12,000 members may have been leaked from Nagoya University has created a high- kendama is enjoying a rebirth and “attracting in a data breach. precision 3-D simulation of the 1959 Ise Bay attention around the world.” ⊲⊲So it’s probably a good idea that authori- typhoon, which killed more than 5,000 people ⊲⊲A staff member at the British Embassy in Tokyo ties at the trade ministry are discussing plans and is the deadliest such storm on record. organized a 500-kilometer bicycle ride to raise to “erect safeguards against cyber-attacks ⊲⊲Meanwhile, Dai Nippon Printing announced awareness of the plight of young people living aimed at stealing personal information.” plans to digitize 55 historic terrestrial and celes- in areas hit by the Great East Japan Earthquake. ⊲⊲For the first time in three years, the Tokyo office tial globes—some dating to the 11th century—for used by U.S. General Douglas MacArthur during viewing on computers and digital devices in 3-D. HERE & THERE the Allied Occupation will be open to visitors. ⊲⊲Officials at JAXA are preparing to launch a ⊲⊲Twenty-four-year-old Karolina Styczyńska MILESTONES ⊲⊲Illustrator Shusei Nagaoka, whose sci-fi themed works appeared on album covers of the likes of at a glance Deep Purple and the Electric Light Orchestra, BY RODGER SONOMURA died of a heart attack in Tokyo at age 78. ⊲⊲A district court in Okinawa ordered the central government to pay ¥754 million in dam- ages to residents near a U.S. military base who complained of “aircraft noises.” ⊲⊲Members of a labor board in Fukushima have classified the death of a police officer who committed suicide after being harassed by his supervisor as an “accident.” ⊲⊲Bottom Story of the Week: “Monuments Erected in Gunma to Mark 70th Year of Deaf Empowerment Group” (via Mainichi Japan)

Small Print Updated Weekly → METURL.COM/SMALLPRINT

Compiled from reports by AP, Japan Today, The Japan Times, Jiji, The Tokyo Reporter, The Mainichi, The Japan News, AFP, Reuters and Kyodo

33 Send your article to: the last word WANT TO HAVE THE LAST WORD? [email protected]

Illustration by Christi Rochin

WHEN I WAS YOUNG, I WAS NEVER COMFORTABLE EATING ALONE—MAYBE BECAUSE I DIDN’T KNOW WHAT TO DO WITHOUT THE SOCIAL ASPECT, OR FELT THAT PEOPLE WOULD STARE AS I ATE ALONE.”

loser. I quickly got over this in college, when my workload piled so high that I had no time to leisurely lunch with my peers. Coming to Tokyo, where so many slurp their noodles alone, changed my thoughts towards solo eating. I think this comes with simply being more comfortable with silence and being by yourself. Moreover, I like the idea of doing something just to satisfy our basic cravings, especially in a society where kitchen. For the most part, even bar offerings there seems to be much prior thought given Solo and fast food looks appetizing. to every action. One day, amid the many variations of Thus began my journey of eating alone in extravagant meals to consume, I decided to public. It’s actually very convenient because Slurping focus on noodles. This genre is rarely glam- you never have to make plans. There’s nobody The art of lone orous—it was perfect for my post-graduate to reject your choice of food or restaurant, salary. Still, Japan’s noodle selection is vast: and you can truly focus on and appreciate the lunching ramen, udon, soba, and pasta, to name a few. food. Additionally, even the most crowded of BY NINA OZAWA PINCUS As I went through these carbs, I slowly places usually has room for a single customer began to take note of the eating habits of those to squeeze in. This really sped up my process around me. What was it about noodle shops of trying out new noodles around Tokyo. I that catered to solo eaters? So frequently enjoyed sitting alone while watching cooks would I spot customers who came in, ate, and prepare the food, and listening to the sounds left—all alone. An act I previously categorized of the kitchen and my surroundings. No lon- as a social event had been stripped of all its ger was I a friendless loser in my mind, but a formalities. People came to these restaurants confident solo eater. simply to eat and sustain themselves, and I Recently, a friend visiting from the U.S. was intrigued by their lack of reluctance to recounted one of the most memorable scenes be solitary. she happened upon in Tokyo. As she passed don’t proclaim myself a foodie, but I do My image of a typical meal out includes through a small park near Tokyo Tower dur- like good food. In the final months of my dishes shared among the chatter. Even when ing lunch, she saw solitary salarymen eating senior year of college, leading up to my eaten in homes, I associate meals with being store-bought bentos on each of the seven departure for Tokyo, I used that as the among others and enjoying the company of or eight benches lining the green grass. Of Ireason for my move across the ocean. Since I family. When I was young, I was never comfort- course, they also wore the same black slacks didn’t have a concrete reason, I would simply able eating alone—maybe because I didn’t and white button-down shirt. laugh off prying questions and retort that I know what to do without the social aspect, As she described the scene to me in awe was going on a culinary quest—and after two or felt that people would stare as I ate alone. and intrigue, I smiled to myself—because just years in Tokyo, this turned out to be almost There’s a stigma attached to doing things the week before, I too had been one of those completely true. alone. It’s as if you don’t have people with people sitting on a bench, eating alone. The food in Tokyo is good. Consistently. whom to share your time. Especially through- I don’t think I’ve ever had a horrible meal in out high school, I was extremely self-conscious

Japan—besides my few meager attempts of this—that being seen eating lunch by myself ■ Nina Ozawa Pincus is a sales assistant at to venture outside my comfort zone in the was the ultimate sign of being a friendless Metropolis and expert solo eater.

The views expressed in “The Last Word” are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect the position or opinions of Japan Partnership Co. Ltd. or its partners and sponsors.

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