AYREAU M Story on Page 22 CHRISTINE GOOCH JULY 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 2 DEPARTMENTS Info & Updates

C A R I B B E A N On-line C MPASS JULY 2014 NO. 226 The Caribbean’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore

AGNETIC AYREAU M Story on page 22 CHRISTINE GOOCH JULY 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 2 DEPARTMENTS Info & Updates ...... 4 The Caribbean Sky ...... 34 Business Briefs ...... 7 Cooking with Cruisers ...... 38 Eco-News ...... 9 Readers’ Forum ...... 39 Regatta News...... 11 Calendar of Events ...... 40 All Ashore… ...... 22 Product Postings ...... 40 Fun Page ...... 30 What’s On My Mind ...... 41 The Caribbean’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore Meridian Passage ...... 31 Caribbean Market Place .....42 Book Reviews...... 31, 32 Classified Ads ...... 46 www.caribbeancompass.com Movie Review ...... 33 Advertisers’ Index ...... 46

JULY 2014 • NUMBER 226 Caribbean Compass is published monthly by Compass Publishing Ltd., P.O. Box 175 BQ, Bequia, St. Vincent & the Grenadines. OA ULTRA BOYAN Tel: (784) 457-3409, Fax: (784) 457-3410 [email protected] Guna Yala Rules www.caribbeancompass.com Tips for the San Blas bound .. 18 Editor...... Sally Erdle [email protected] HOGAN Assistant Editor...... Elaine Ollivierre Martinique: Ad Sales & Distribution - Isabelle Prado [email protected] Tel: (0596) 596 68 69 71 Mob: + 596 696 74 77 01 [email protected] Advertising & Distribution...... Tom Hopman [email protected] Panama: Distribution - Shelter Bay Marina Art, Design & Production...... Wilfred Dederer www.shelterbaymarina.com [email protected] Puerto Rico: Distribution - Sunbay Marina, Fajardo Accounting...... Shellese Craigg Olga Diaz de Peréz, Tel: (787) 863 0313 Fax: (787) 863 5282 [email protected] [email protected] Compass Agents by Island: St. Lucia: Ad Sales & Distribution - Maurice Moffat Antigua: Ad Sales & Distribution - Lucy Tulloch Tel: (758) 452 0147 Cell: (758) 720-8432 Tel (268) 720-6868, [email protected] [email protected] Come Back! Barbados: Distribution - Doyle Sails St. Maarten/St. Barths/Guadeloupe: Revisiting Jamaica ...... 12 Tel/Fax: (246) 423-4600 Ad Sales & Distribution - Stéphane Legendre Colombia: Distribution - Marina Santa Marta Mob: + 590 690 765 422 www.igy-marinasantamarta.com/en [email protected] Curaçao: Distribution - Budget Marine Curaçao St. Vincent & the Grenadines: Ad Sales - Shellese Craigg

[email protected] Tel: (5999) 462 77 33 JULY 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 3 [email protected] Tel: (784) 457-3409 Dominica: Ad Sales & Distribution - Hubert J. Winston Distribution - Doc Leslie Tel: (784) 529-0970 Dominica Marine Center, Tel: (767) 448-2705, [email protected] Tortola/BVI: Distribution - Gladys Jones Tel: (284) 494-2830 Fax: (284) 494-1584 Grenada: Ad Sales & Distribution - Karen Maaroufi Venezuela: Ad Sales - Patty Tomasik Cell: (473) 457-2151 Office: (473) 444-3222 Tel: (58-281) 265-3844 Tel/Fax: (58-281) 265-2448 A Summer Place [email protected] [email protected] Greetings, Grenville! ...... 20 Caribbean Compass welcomes submissions of articles, news items, photos and drawings. See Writers’ Guidelines at www.caribbeancompass.com. Send submissions to [email protected]. We support free speech! But the content of advertisements, columns, articles and letters to the editor are the sole responsibility of the advertiser, writer or correspondent, and Compass Publishing Ltd. accepts Jungle Love Nightmare no responsibility for any statements made therein. Letters and submissions may be edited for length and clarity. ©2014 Compass Publishing Ltd. All rights reserved. No reproduction, copy or transmission of this publication, except short Reveling in the Rio Dulce ...... 16 “I had lost my boat…’ ...... 28 excerpts for review purposes, may be made without written permission of Compass Publishing Ltd. ISSN 1605 - 1998

On the cover: A tiny Grenadines isle casts a large spell. The friendliness of Mayreau makes it a perennial cruisers’ favorite

Compass covers the Caribbean! From Cuba to Trinidad, from Panama to Barbuda, we’ve got the news and views that sailors can use. We’re the Caribbean’s monthly look at sea and shore.

‘Caribbean Compass is a useful and accessible boater’s rag — information-packed and unbiased.’ — Readers’ Survey 2014 respondent

Click Google Map link below to ﬁ nd the Caribbean Compass near you! http://bit.ly/1fMC2Oy JULY 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 4 Tropical WeatherOutlooktextproduct(TWO)tofivedaysonanexperimentalbasis. and graphicalproductsforthe2014hurricaneseason. &Updates Info • Duringthe2013hurricaneseason,NHCextendedtimeperiodcoveredin The USNationalHurricaneCenter(NHC)willimplementsomechangestoitstext National HurricaneCenterChangesfor2014 [email protected] Tel: (246)4234600 St Philip, Six Crossroads, Doyle OffshoreSails,Ltd Barbados [email protected] Tel: (284)4942569 Road Town,Tortola Road ReefMarina Doyle SailmakersBVI,Ltd British VirginIslands 30 BldAllegre Voilerie DuMarin Martinique True BlueStGeorge Turbulence Sails Grenada Roseau Dominica MarineCenter Dominica Kapiteinsweg #4 Zeilmakerij Harms Curacao Jolly Harbour Star Marine Antigua &Barbuda advanced sailspossible. the finest,mostdurableandtechnologically 50,000 miles. Our OCEANPLUSsailsareguaranteedforfiveyearsor Chaguramas AMD Trinidad &Tobago Blue Lagoon Barefoot YachtCharters St. Vincent Rodney Bay Rodney BaySails St Lucia Fajardo, PuertoRico Atlantic Canvas&Sail Puerto Rico Panama City Regency Marine Panama

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but wealsocompletedresearchforVolume2ofthe ers, betterfood,andaccesstoday-to-dayitemsthatwecouldn’tbuyinotheryears, while visitingCubathispastwinter,“Notonlydidweenjoythecompanyofmorecruis- Puerto RicoandtheUSVirginIslandswillbeincluded,butwehopeso. United Statesatriskofstormsurgefromatropicalcyclone.Wedon’tknowyetif Storm SurgeFloodingMapforthoseareasalongtheGulfandAtlanticcoastsof to estimateintensityriskcanbedeveloped. for land-threateningstorms,NHCisdiscontinuingthistableuntilabetterprocedure highly misleadingestimateoflandfallintensity.Becausethelikelihoodmisuse the variousintensitycategories.Unfortunately,currentmethodologyprovidesa estimate thechancesthatatropicalcyclonewillmakelandfallatoneormoreof particular times.However,NHChaslearnedthatmanyusersconsultthistableto was originallyintendedtohelpusersassesstheriskofdifferentstormintensitiesat cane, etcetera)atfixedpointsintime(e.g.,12hours,24etcetera).Thistable any ofseveraldifferentintensitycategories(e.g.,depression,storm,Category1hurri- product includedatableshowingthelikelihoodthattropicalcyclonewouldbeat depicted onthe48-hourgraphic. depicted inthefive-daygraphic.Activetropicalcycloneswillcontinuetobe or ovals;beginningin2014,disturbanceswillbedenotedbyXs,justastheyare GTWO willchange.Previously,the48-hourgraphicdenoteddisturbanceswithcircles the locationsofexistingtropicalcyclones.Inaddition,someaspects48-hour GTWO (whichwillcontinuetobeproduced),thefive-daygraphicnotdisplay which shouldimproveclaritywhentheforecastgenesisareasoverlap. Clicking onadisturbancewilldisplaygraphicshowingonlythatdisturbance, ture willallowuserstoseetheaccompanyingOutlooktextforeachdisturbance. chance oftropicalcycloneformationduringthenextfivedays.Amouse-overfea- denoting amedium(30%to50%)chance,andredcorrespondinghigh(>50%) development likelihood,withyellowrepresentingalow(<30%)chance,orange bance duringthesubsequentfive-dayperiod.Theareaswillbecolor-codedby areas willrepresentthepotentialtropicalcycloneformationareaforeachdistur- current locationofexistingdisturbanceswillbedenotedbyan“X”,andshaded cate theformationpotentialofindividualdisturbancesduringnextfivedays.The the textproduct. corresponding five-dayGraphicalTropicalWeatherOutlook(GTWO)toaccompany form oftheTWOwillchangeslightly.Inaddition,NHCintroduceanexperimental This year,theexperimentalfive-dayTWOforecastsbecomeoperational,and Cruising guideauthorCherylBarr( Cuba UpdatesfromCherylBarr Grenada’s GrenvilleHarbourhasrecentlybeenre-buoyed.Seestoryonpage20. Grenada’s GrenvilleHarbourRe-Buoyed There areotherchanges,too.Formoreinformationvisitwww.nhc.noaa.gov/news. • Beginningwiththe2014Atlantichurricaneseason,NHCwillissuePotential • TheIntensityProbabilityTablewillbeeliminated. Because thenewfive-dayGTWOwilltendtobebusierthancurrent48-hour The newfive-dayGTWO,availablefortheAtlanticBasinbeginningJuly1st,willindi- Kaya AtomZ IBS b/v Bonaire Kingston PJG Jamaica Christiansted Wilsons' CruzanCanvas USVI StCroix Yacht Pilot’sCruisingGuidetoCuba

The WindSpeedProbabilitytext Cruising GuidetoCuba —Continued onnextpage ) reports that ) reportsthat series. series. JULY 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 5 , Unicorn as stating the was quickly Unicorn St. Lucia Times , at about 0930 hours, near the on the deck of the brig on the deck of films. During the evening we were told ) in Finland, as a working cargo ship. (See ) in Finland, as a working cargo embarked on her voyage to St. Vincent. She St. Lucia Times Lyra S/V Asseance S/V Asseance Unicorn Pirates of the Caribbean colorful history at www.caribbeancompass.com/online/septem- Lost at Sea was built in 1948 (as has written her final page in nautical history and will be missed by has written her final page in nautical history and will be was due to go to dry dock in St. Vincent soon to have the copper was due to go to dry dock in St. Vincent soon to have Unicorn’s is in water of a depth to make salvage very unlikely. Unicorn series and the Unicorn Unicorn Unicorn On May 23rd at 0200 hours, Since 1980, she has been a tourist attraction in St. Lucia, taking visitors on cruises in Since 1980, she has been a tourist attraction in St. Lucia, Lt. Ralph Ragguette of the SVGCG was quoted in the The The owners have issued no public statement as yet. The Brig and I sat with May 16th my wife, Nancy, reports: On the evening of John Rowland the sheathing on her hull replaced. never made it. As reported by the ber10compass_online.pdf, page 27.) ber10compass_online.pdf, major movies, including the local waters, and had been a featured player in some Roots as if it had struck something north end of St. Vincent, the crew felt the ship shudder rate. Pumps, including in the water. The ship began to take on water at an alarming ineffective against the inrush- the two-inch-diameter diesel unit, were engaged but abandoned the ves- ing seawater. The captain and nine crewmembers successfully Coast Guard. sel and were picked up by the St. Vincent & the Grenadines enjoying evening drinks and the ambiance of the 138-foot square rigger. The ship of the 138-foot square rigger. drinks and the ambiance enjoying evening serving as the in Rodney Bay, St. Lucia, the dock at the IGY Shipyard was tied up at where, on Friday nights, Chef Robby offers up gour- floating bar for a new restaurant from daily coastal tours, the brig met Creole cooking. Retired becoming the place to be and be seen on Friday nights in Rodney Bay. becoming the place to be more on Unicorn many here in St. Lucia. —Continued on next page our friends Heather and Don of our friends Heather ). It was mouth-watering when ). It was mouth-watering ovejo (mint) sauce.… The price for a good restaurant meal in a The price for a good restaurant (mint) sauce.… was built by House Manager Norbert Fuchs at the Mandalay House was built by House Manager yerba buena was cheaper this year than in other years… was cheaper this year than Lulu Bell Continued from previous page Continued from “Dockage rates remain unbeatable with an average price of $0.40/foot/day for a with an average price of $0.40/foot/day for “Dockage rates remain unbeatable For more information visit http://cruisingincuba.com. in Grenadines Classic Steam Launch Built on the island of Mustique was launched on April 30th. The first steamboat ever built ”What stood out the most was the number of tourists that we encountered. There of tourists that we encountered. the most was the number ”What stood out farmers are the food became. Now that we traveled, the better “The farther east workshop over the past year. The original “Edwardian 26” design, by Nathanael workshop over the past year. The original “Edwardian for its sea-keeping Herreshoff, is from the late 19th century and is a type known in the early 20th century. qualities when used as tenders for America’s Cup yachts wood, mostly offcuts from the The launch’s 12-horsepower steam engine is fired with Mandalay House workshop. paladar Customs fee to enter a boat into Cuba increased in early boat less than 45 feet. The from $20). This, however, includes the exit fee and the January 2014 to US$55 (up formerly sold separately — still a bargain compared to cruising permit, which were Caribbean islands. And compared to Mexico, the the Bahamas and many other check-in procedure is a breeze.” The were buses loaded with visitors in colonial towns and villages, and even cruise ships in towns and villages, and even with visitors in colonial were buses loaded appears to be An upside to all this until now, rarely saw foreigners. remote ports that, expect… buildings in places you wouldn’t of Cuba’s beautiful historic more restoration there is a huge the sale of their produce more cash received from allowed to retain first time in varieties. This year was the more produce and more incentive to grow ( to Cuba that we ate lamb our many visits — cooked in JULY 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 6 held inhermemory. band withacelebrationoflife/non-religiousservice’.”Accordingly,partieswere her ‘StatementofChoices’underthesubtitle‘FollowingDeath’:shewrote‘ajazz these bonusyears”. Bernie, says,“Yvonnedidnotwasteoneminuteof 2006, yetcontinuedtosailandtravel.Herhusband, Yvonne wasdiagnosedwithpancreaticcancerin Around theNextBend These unusualtravelsaredocumentedinthebook Venezuela andGuyanatoseeherbelovedbirds. adventurous foraysintounchartedwaterwaysin and birdwatcher,thecoupletookboaton at www.infobonaire.com/captdon/profile.html. 43 ketch, Colombia —aboardtheir1978-vintageEndeavour and toCuba,IslaProvidenciamainland Caribbean extensively—throughouttheAntilles cruised formorethantwodecades.Theysailedthe companies, Yvonneandherhusband,Bernie, establishing oneofAustralia’sfirstbareboatcharter — Bernie writes,“IfoundYvonne’slastdemandsin Read CaptainDon’sincredibleautobiography Australian long-timecruiserYvonneKatchordiedonMay17th,atage70.After YVONNE KATCHOR Eight Bells Continued frompreviouspage Australia 31 . Yvonnewasanavidhiker (www.berniekatchor.com). CAPTAINDONSTEWART environmental leadership. ration, torecognizehispioneering the Netherlands’highestmilitaryandciviliandeco- the titleofKnightorderOrangeNassau, 2005. InAprilof2008,CaptainDonwasawarded and waselectedtotheScubaHallofFamein received theDEMAReachingOutAwardin1998 lishment oftheBonaireNationalMarinePark.He them, Bonairehasnothing”),resultingintheestab- of Bonairetoprotecttheislands’reefs(“Without was instrumentalinencouragingthegovernment under-sea vacationoption.Mostimportantly,he industry precedentbyprovidingatrueon-landand famous hotel,CaptainDon’sHabitat,setatourism foremost divingdestinations.Hisinternationally developed whathasbecomeoneoftheworld’s Captain DonarrivedinBonaire1962andsoon 28th inthehospitalofBonaire,atage89. talist CaptainDonStewartpassedawayonMay A farewellwasheldMay30th. The self-described“founderofunder-seatourism”, Legendary scubapioneerandearlyenvironmen- www.intellicast.com/Storm/Hurricane/AtlanticSatellite.aspx?animate=true beats this,inmyopinion: eye ontheweather,says,“Forhurricaneandtropicalwavewatching,nothing Berlinghof (seestoryonpage28),wholivesashoreBequianowandstillkeepsan (284) 468-5682ortheIntelligenceUnitat468-9339. for safetyandsecurity,dependsheavilyonyachtingtourism. after oneofthreemenbrandishedagunandfiredathimwhenheraisedanalarm. Penn’s LandMarina.Inthatincident,theyachtownernarrowlyescapedinjuries stocky. OnFebruary8th,maskedgunmenattemptedtobreakintoayachtin as around6feet3inchesandslim,theother58 lar phonesfromtheoccupants.Inbothofthoseincidents,onemanwasdescribed Trading CompanyofBequia,onpage44.Goodtohaveyouwithus! pack-public/animation/animMOSAIC2.html [email protected]. eight scholarships! ing Carriacousecondaryschoolstudents.Let’ssetthisyear’sgoaltoprovide from anchorstoahaulout,willbeupforbidding. race. Tableswillbesetuptosellavarietyofsmallitemsandlargeritems,ranging Friday afternoon,August1st,followingthearoundislanddouble-handedyacht cal instrumentsforaninformaljamsessionafterdining.CCEF’sAnnualAuctionis Fountain restaurant.Bringadishtoshareandwhateveryouwantgrill.musi- scholarships totheTAMarryshowCommunityCollege. ing schooluniformsandsupplies,MealsfromKeels(lunchforneedystudents), planned duringRegattaFestivalweek.AllproceedswillfundCCEFprojects,includ- this year.TheCarriacouChildren’sEducationFund(CCEF)hasfund-raisingactivities gun, climbedonboardtheboatjustafter1:00 to thepolice,inHodgesCreekMarinaincident,men,onearmedwitha early onMay27th,andahomerobberyatHannah’sEstate4th.According two months,includinganaggravatedburglaryofayachtatHodgesCreekMarina described astheperpetratorsofanumberrobberiesandburglariesoverlast specifically toinvestigaterecentrobberiesonTortola.Twomaskedmenhavebeen Further tolastmonth’slistingofonlineweatherforecasts,formeryachtskipperBob Cruisers’ Site-ings Anyone withinformationrelatedtotheincidentscancalldetectivesdirectlyat These incidentsarebadnewsfortheBVI,whichgenerallyhasagoodreputation In thisissueof Welcome Aboard! For moreinformationvisitwww.carriacouchildrenseducationfund.orgorcontact Please joinusduringRegattaWeekandhelprepeatlastyear’ssuccess. Last year’sfund-raisingallowedCCEFtograntsixtwo-yearscholarshipsgraduat- The CCEFPotluckBarbecueisWednesday,July30thatTantyLizzy’sSeaside Judy Evansreports:Carriacou’sAnnualRegattaFestivalisAugust1stthrough4th 2014 CarriacouRegattaandCCEFEvents “For localWindwardIslandsshowers,Ilike The RoyalVirginIslandsPoliceForcehasreportedlyallocatedateamofdetectives Tortola PoliceSeekYachtRobbers Caribbean Compass , wewelcomenewadvertiserOlliveCottage www.meteo.fr/temps/domtom/antilles/ — hit‘animation’toputitinmotion.” AM anddemandedmoneycellu- . JULY 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 7

OYSTER, INGRID ABERY

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Compass , the in-flight Cruising Life . This lively collec- Zing Caribbean Compass Cruising Life: The —Continued on next page Cruising guide author Chris Best Stories from Caribbean Compass tion of 49 standout articles selected from among more than 200 issues of has met with great success. Aside from strong international sales, this collection won both acclaim and popularity. One of the selections, a story by Ruth Chesman about falling overboard, was featured on the Women and Cruising website (www. womenandcruising.com and became one of their five most-often-read posts of 2013. magazine of the Caribbean airline LIAT, noted that provides “glimpses of sel- dom-visited anchorages as well as unique per- spectives on the places ‘everybody knows’”. Doyle says, “Cruising Life is a fabulous collection of classic articles… a book that is lively, fun and describes not only cruising life, but life on the waterfront that has

The social area was finished just in time for the World Soccer Cup! Speaking of The social area was finished just in time for the World Soccer North Sea Jazz Festival On August 29th and 30th is the fifth edition of the Curaçao keep you informed about Through social media the management would like to For more information see ad on page 21. Compass Anthology’s First Anniversary e-book This month marks one year since the publication of the Not only is Curaçao Marine active on social media such as Facebook, Twitter, media such as Facebook, Marine active on social Not only is Curaçao

For more information see ad on page 32. BUSINESS BRIEFS BUSINESS which, did you know that in Curaçao ALL World Cup games can be watched? which, did you know that in Curaçao ALL World Cup games where everyone comes to Near Curaçao Marine are several cafés and sports bars watch the games. Bruno Mars and many — a world class festival with big names such as Rod Stewart, details. In case you would more. Check out www.curacaonorthseajazz.com for full as soon as possible to discuss like to sail over for this event, contact Curaçao Marine season. the options, because the marina is filling up for the summer hip and happening around the developments at Curaçao Marine and also what’s Marine ticks off the next thing the island. Be among the first to know when Curaçao answered by sailors at on the 2014 Improvements List; according to a questionnaire pretty content! Feel free to the yard, the next improvement will make many sailors social media plat- follow Curaçao Marine and say hello on the abovementioned or www.facebook. forms or sign up for their newsletter at www.curacaomarine.com com/curacao.marine. Curaçao Marine is Going Social! Curaçao Marine a “social they are also constructing Google+, but at the moment YouTube and The palapa will have free WiFi, a communal bar- area” for the sailors at the marina. looks forward to hosting the next Last-Friday-of- becue and a bar. The management new social hut. Visitors of the marina and crew are wel- the-Month-Barbecue at the come to join the fun. become home for many of us. The book is in sections and the Adventure part should put paid to the notion that Caribbean cruising has become ho-hum. The editors have done a wonderful job of providing vignettes that create a colorful and representative picture of the Caribbean we all know and love. Buy it to peruse and enjoy, or to send to your friends in faraway places, so they, too, can see what holds you here.” JULY 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 8 at https://www.antiguayachtshow.com/register3.php. through aneasyonlineapplicationprocess tion feebyJuly31st. early registrationdiscountwillbegivento yachtsthatregisterandpaytheirregistra- — reportedly metwiththeinvestorstosmoothwayforworkrecommencesoon. share intheproject,andSVG’sPrimeMinister,Hon.Dr.RalphGonsalves,has ment partners.TheGovernmentofSt.Vincent&theGrenadinesownsa17-percent was aresultof“operationaldifferences”betweentheproject’stwomajorinvest- Canouan, onlyfivemilesfromthefamousTobagoCaysMarinePark.Thestoppage struction ofanewmarinalocatedatthewesternendGrenadineisland cials_overstock.php. to checkforoverstockspecialsatwww.partsandpower.com/products_store_spe- partsandpower.com. your inspection,call(284)[email protected]@ offering thispackagetoprovidepeace-of-mindforwhenyoureturn.Toarrange your boatoryachtduringthesummerinBritishVirginIslands,Parts&Powerare launch yourboatwiththeirnine-point“summarization”program.Ifyouarestoring with ourrangeofsurgeprotectiondevices—allinstock. you needit.Parts&Powercanalsoprotectyourhomeorofficefromlightningstrikes erators andtheirteamofskilledserviceengineerswillensureyouhavepowerwhen when needed?Noproblem!Parts&Powerstockservicepartsforallbrandsofgen- through longpoweroutages. their long-runningfueltankswillkeepyourhomeandbusinessuprunning stock toserviceeveryneed.ThesegeneratorsaredesignedfortheCaribbean,and or replacementworkyoumayrequire. range ofmarinegenerators,enginesandtransmissions,canperformanyrepair date morethanahundredboatsofvarious sizes. airport, thenewmarinaisexpectedtobe of“internationalquality”andaccommo- You cangoonlineandregisterorreactivate yourregistrationfromlastyear As thisissueof Work SuspendedatNewCanouanMarina For moreinformationvisitwww.partsandpower.com.Bargainhunting?Don’tforget Parts &Powercanalsohelpboatownersreducestart-upproblemswhenyoure- Perhaps youalreadyhaveageneratorandwanttoensureitwillperform For yourhomeandbusinessParts&PowerhavePerkins-poweredgeneratorsin Working onyourboatoryachtthishurricaneseason?Parts&Powerofferafull Power UpforHurricaneSeasonwithParts& Registration forAntiguaCharterYachtShow 2014innowopen,anda Early-Bird DiscountforAntiguaCharterShow Being builtonreclaimedlandsouthofandimmediatelyadjacenttotheisland’s Continued frompreviouspage Compass goestopress,workhasbeentemporarilyhaltedoncon- landings ontheparallelairportrunway! mention auniqueviewoftake-offsand the heartofGrenadines—notto Canouan willofferberthsandservicesin When completed,thenewmarinain

ten-percent JULY 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 9

JIM ABERNETHY -NEWS —Continued on next page ECO , the Secretariat to the Convention for the ), a tree-dwelling, blue-toned venomous snake. ), a tree-dwelling, blue-toned Jamaica Observer Bothriechis thalassinus

More Cooperation for Marine Conservation As reported in the The territory joins Honduras and the Bahamas as the first governments in theThe territory joins Honduras and the Bahamas as the The MAR Fund is a four-country alliance with the primary purpose being to sup- The sanctuary announcement was applauded by the territory’s most famous resi- The sanctuary announcement was applauded by the The Cartagena Convention is the only legally binding agreement for the conservation The territory of about 25,000 people said it is also protecting rays, whose numbers The territory of about 25,000 people said it is also protecting The first joint activity undertaken within the framework of the memorandum was Commercial shark fishing has grown rapidly in recent decades, driven by rising Commercial shark fishing has grown rapidly in recent Kedrick Pickering, deputy premier and minister for natural resources, said the lossKedrick Pickering, deputy premier and minister for natural BVI Waters Declared Shark Sanctuary waters a permanent On May 22nd, the British Virgin Islands declared its territorial “We have been working to obtain the legal declaration of this new protected area obtain the legal declaration of this new protected area “We have been working to The National Congress of Guatemala established the National Protected Area on Guatemala established the National Protected Area on The National Congress of The Core Zone of this new protected area, the 6,000-acre Sierra Caral Amphibian protected area, the 6,000-acre Sierra Caral Amphibian The Core Zone of this new

New Protected Area in Guatemala New Protected (19,013 established a new 47,000-acre Government has formally The Guatemalan CARIBBEAN CARIBBEAN Americas to declare shark sanctuaries, according to Pew Charitable Trusts, which has pushed shark conservation efforts around the world. The BVI is “showing that small islands can have a big impact on global biodiversity,” Pew’s Angelo Villagomez said. port the conservation and sustainable use of natural resources in the Mesoamerican Reef eco-region. It operates as a privately managed fund that raises and allocates funding, while relying on the pre-existing technical, administrative and financial capabilities, and know-how of its founding members — Protected Areas Conservation Trust in Belize, Fundación para la Conservación de los Recursos Naturales y Ambiente in Guatemala, Fundación Biosfera in Honduras, and Fondo Mexicano para la Conservación de la Naturaleza in Mexico — to operate on the ground. dent, Richard Branson, CEO and founder of the Virgin Group of companies, who has dent, Richard Branson, CEO and founder of the Virgin marine environments, mak- been pushing Caribbean governments to better protect Branson hosted on his pri- ing special mention of sharks and rays. At a conference to establishing shark vate island last year, several regional governments committed protections by May 2015. and sustainable use of the coastal and marine resources of the Caribbean Sea. The Convention is supported by three technical protocols dealing with oil spills, specially protected areas and wildlife (SPAW), and pollution from land-based sources and activities. These legal instruments assist countries to ensure that environmental issues are considered in national development activities that may impact the Caribbean Sea. have sharply decreased over the years. Researchers with the International Union for have sharply decreased over the years. Researchers with of the world’s sharks and the Conservation of Nature have said roughly one-quarter rays are threatened with extinction. a workshop on the control of lionfish in the MAR, which took place May 22nd and 23rd in Guatemala. Over the two days, national and regional experts from the MAR and the insular Caribbean learned about the strategy for lionfish in the Caribbean, which has been aimed at education and awareness, building capacity on the capture of lionfish and techniques to handle the species, as well as incentives and marketing to promote its consumption. demand, mainly in China, for shark fin soup. Because of their long life spans and demand, mainly in China, for shark fin soup. Because Experts say roughly low fertility rates, sharks are highly vulnerable to overfishing. fisheries around the globe. 100 million sharks are killed each year in commercial Protection and Development of the Marine Environment of the Wider Caribbean Region (Cartagena Convention) and the Mesoamerican Reef Fund (MAR Fund) recently signed a Memorandum of Cooperation to enhance the conservation and sustainable management of coastal and marine resources within the Wider Caribbean Region. This collaboration will enable joint training support and improved exchange of information among the countries of the region. of sharks disrupts the predator-prey balance, compromising the health of oceans andof sharks disrupts the predator-prey balance, compromising way to manage their popu- reefs and the survival of other marine creatures. “The best predators,” Pickering says.lations is to let them fulfill their ecological role as apex sanctuary for all shark species to help protect the marine predators whose global sanctuary for all shark species to help protect the marine of the BVI banned com- numbers have been dramatically dwindling. The Cabinet miles (80,117 square kilo- mercial fishing of all shark species in the 30,933 square meters) of its exclusive economic zone. for more than seven years,” said Marco Cerezo of FUNDAECO. “Finally, the biological said Marco Cerezo of FUNDAECO. “Finally, the biological for more than seven years,” new has been recognized by our National Congress. This importance of Sierra Caral step closer toward our dream, which is the conservation protected area brings us a habitats for migratory birds along their flyway across of key stop-over and wintering Caribbean Guatemala.” May 13th by an overwhelming pro-conservation vote of 106 in favor out of a total of pro-conservation vote of 106 in favor out of a total May 13th by an overwhelming in the session. It is the first new protected area desig- 125 Congressmen present in nine years. nated by congress in Guatemala Conservation Reserve, was established in 2012 by Fundación para el Ecodesarrollo established in 2012 by Fundación para el Ecodesarrollo Conservation Reserve, was with assistance from American Bird Conservancy y la Conservación (FUNDAECO) Southern Wings, World Land Trust, and others. (ABC), Global Wildlife Conservation, area is reflected in its previous designation as a global The conservation value of the site, owing to its status as the last place on earth provid- Alliance for Zero Extinction Salamander. ing habitat for Wake’s Hidden hectare) protected area that will safeguard some of the country’s most endangered some of the country’s area that will safeguard hectare) protected Sea and justGuatemala near the Caribbean in the eastern corner of wildlife. Located Caral Water and area is named the Sierra Dulce, the newly protected south of the Rio in Caribbean bio-diverse forest remnant Sierra Caral is the single most Forest Reserve. to three species of threatened birds, a host of migra- Guatemala. The reserve is home threatened frogs and salamanders, and the rare Merendontory birds, a dozen globally palm-pitviper ( JULY 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 10 Water and electricityavailable. ID) with us 24 hrmannedSecurity, completelyfencedpropertywithCCTV. of front in sign (must checks travellers & Discover Mastercard, Visa, Payments –Cash(ECorUS$) We allowyoutodoyourownworkonboat.No extrachargeforCatamarans. wide and120feetlong. Carpenters available. in etc.Pressurewash,Mechanics($45/hr),ElectriciansWelding and Tie downavailable($3/ft),backhoe($100/hr)todigholeputkeel to yourvesselbelaunchedatanytimeandnotgetstuckbehindotherboats. Storage $8/ftmonth Special -5%discountforfullpayment. Monday to Thurs 8amto3pm,FridaysNoon REGULAR HOURSFORHAUL: Cell: 1(869)6628930 E-mail: [email protected] www.skmw.net St. KittsMarineWorksS LOCATEDL AT NEWGUINEA,ST.KITTS O BOAT YARD “QUALITY SERVICE AT A GREAT PRICE” Our 164tonTravel Lifthasabilitytoliftboatsup35ft . BeattheHurricaneseasonrush.Haveaccess FREE highspeedWifi. - Haul andLaunch$11 /ft. Haul &Storage Long 62º50.1’ WLat17º20.3’ N Agents for: — cea ground forfourspeciesofseaturtle:theleatherbackturtle( centuries, theovereightkilometresofbeachesinCahuitahaveprovidedanesting that conservationeffortscan’tfight—thebeachesthemselvesareshrinking.For 2012 only53nestswerecountedonthebeachesofthispark.Andthereisanenemy contains theCorallineReefsaswellbeinganestinggroundforseaturtles.Butin attracts visitorswhoscubadiveandsnorkelintheprotectedmarinearea,which Costa RicalocatedontheCaribbeancoast.Itprotectsbeachesandlowlands 2,711-acre (1,097-hectare)nationalparkintheLaAmistadConservationAreaof Cahuita NationalParkinCostaRicaisoneofthem.a agency, criticallyendangeredseaturtleshavefewsanctuariesleftintheworld,and behind theport. try’s transportminister,OmarDavies,toldparliamentthegovernmentwasfirmly about howtogoforwardontheport,accordingJamaicanpressreports.Thecoun- Simpson Miller,andotherofficialsmetvisitingChinesecompanyexecutivesfortalks feared theprojectismovingaheadspeedily.Jamaica’sprimeminister,Portia of reviews,includinganEnvironmentalImpactAssessment.Butopponentssaidthey past 20years.Weareonthevergeofsuccess.” that wasgivenasecondchangeforsurvivalhasbeenontheroadrecovery Fort WorthZoo,andafounderoftheInternationalIguanaFoundation.“Aspecies success storiesofmoderntimes,”saidRickHudson,aconservationbiologistatthe efforts tobringbacktheJamaicanIguana.“Itisoneofbest-knownconservation the WorldBankin2009. China CommunicationsConstructionCompany,wassanctionedforcorruptionby will advanceJamaica’stourismpotential.” “With theentireCaribbeanregionvyingforsametourists,suchauniqueniche hurricanes andotherstorms.Hesaidsavingthereservepromisedeconomicbenefits. fishing communities,damagebeaches,andexposethecoastlinetogreaterriskof Jamaican governmentiscallingforacoalpowerplantatthesite. industrial parktomanufacturecranesforexportacrosstheCaribbean,and opponents said.Jamaicanofficialshavesaidtheportprojectwouldalsoinvolvean involve flatteningtheGoatIslandsandextensivedredging,localinternational being preparedasasanctuaryfortheJamaicanIguana.Theportprojectwould aside asanaturereservein1999,andtheGoatIslands,whichareuninhabited,were Islands, 30,000acresofmangroves,andfourdrylimestoneforests.Theareawasset Area extendsover200milesoflandand524sea,containingtheGoat McCaulay, whoheadstheJamaicaEnvironmentTrust.ThePortlandBightProtected critically endangeredspeciesinthePortlandBightProtectedArea. endangered. ConservationistswarnthattheJamaicanIguana, would endanger50speciesofplantfoundonlyinJamaica,including17thatare risks destroyingmangrovesandrareforestsinthereserve.TheIUCNsaidport environmental groupssaytheChinaHarbourEngineeringCompanydevelopment United Nations,theInternationalUnionforConservationofNatureandlocal port, industrialparkandcauseway,asaboonforthecountry’seconomy.But Jamaican Iguanaandputtingfragilecoastalareasatrisk,environmentalgroupssay. biggest naturereserve,thePortlandBightProtectedArea,threateningfamous government ispursuinga$1.5billionChineseportdevelopmentinsidetheisland’s will destroyJamaica’sbiggestnaturereserveandfragilecoastalareas.TheJamaican hawksbill ( death decisionsformigratoryanimals,” he added. a columnpublishedbyIPS. stay beforereturninghome,”CMSExecutive SecretaryBradneeChamberswrotein choose whentotravel,whatroutetake, wheretoeatandrest,howlong es havebeenlostin15years,according toCerdas. lands andnestingbeaches.InCahuita,for example,uptoone-quarterofthebeach- and vulnerability. Assessment ReportonClimateChange,whichfocusesimpacts,adaptation ity oftheworld’secosystemstoglobalwarming,insecondvolumeitsFifth Wild Animals(CMS). with thesecretariatofConventiononConservationMigratorySpecies of ratio gapbecomestoobig,therecouldbeproblems,”saidBorjaHeredia,ascientist that morefemalesthanmalesareborn. beaches, withcoolbeachesproducingmoremalesandwarmfemales. cern. Inseaturtles,genderisdeterminedbythetemperatureofsandonnesting park, Cerdashasseenadropinthenumbersofturtlescomingtonest. According toareportbyDiegoArguedasOrtizofInterPressService(IPS)news Sea TurtlesNestingAffectedbyClimateChange Officially, constructionwillnotgetunderwayuntiltheprojectundergoesaseries Conservationists saidtheportwouldreversemorethan20yearsofinternational Anti-corruption groupsnotedthattheportdevelopment’sparentcompany, The localUNrepresentative,ArunKashyap,warnedtheportcouldwipeout “What isatstakeareJamaica’smostprotectedareasoflandandsea,”saidDiana Government officialshavechampionedtheproject,whichreportedlyincludesa According toareportbySuzanneGoldenbergin Jamaican NatureReserveThreatenedbyPortProject “Unfortunately,thesechoicesthatareseemingly sotrivialforhumansarelife-or- “Migratory animalsfacemanyofthesame challengesthathumansdo:havingto In coastalzones,therisingsealevelisendangering habitatslikecoralreefs,wet- In March,theIntergovernmentalPanelonClimateChangeconfirmedfragil- “This couldbeacceptableforthepopulationuptoacertainpoint,butifgender As aresultofclimatechange,heatisincreasinginCentralAmerica,whichmeans The turtles’changeofdestination,tobeachesoutsidethepark,isnotonlycon- Continued frompreviouspage ), thegreenseaturtle( Eretmochelys imbricata Chelonia mydas for turtlenesting becoming lesssuitable are shrinkingandthus Cahuita NationalPark, Beaches, likethisonein ). ), theloggerhead(

The Guardian FORANADVENTURE.WORDPRESS.COM Caretta caretta years hehasrunthe told IPS.Inthethree istrator MarioCerdas ble,” theparkadmin- them morevulnera- over, whichmakes es wehavenocontrol side thepark,inplac- go tothebeachesout- Caribbean Sea. migrating acrossthe national parkafter lay theireggsinthis turtles whocometo and thenumberof their breedinggrounds reduced thesizeof ing sealevelhave the sandandris- (UK), a development (UK),adevelopment “Many turtlesnow But theerosionof Cyclura collei Dermochelys coria- ), andthe , isa JULY 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 11 took the top spot, fol- Thirty-three Optimists took to Tortola’s waters in beautiful conditions for the 2014 BVI Dinghy Championships and Chris Haycraft and crew on Tortola Express Foxy Lady . The overall Optimist winners were Teddy Nicolosi from St. Thomas in first place, The overall Optimist winners were Teddy Nicolosi from are just learning to race. The Optmist Green Fleet is for children of all ages who Full Class (Olympic Class Lasers raced in three categories. The winner in the Laser In the IC24 Class, Colin Rathbun and crew on VI Triple Crown Series. The The BVI Dinghy Championships is also the third leg in the youth sailing program, veryNanny Cay, a great sponsor of the Royal BVI Yacht Club sailing program For more information on the Royal BVI Yacht Club youth The Optimist Championship fleet had 27 boats racing; for awards it was split into boats racing; for awards it fleet had 27 The Optimist Championship from St. first place went to Mia Nicolosi (ten years and under), In the White Fleet from the BVI, place went to Rayne Duff (11 and 13 years old), first In the Blue Fleet old), first place went to Teddy Nicolosi from St. In the Red Fleet (13 to 15 years Rayne Duff from the BVI in second, and Rocco Falcone from Antigua in third. Mia Rayne Duff from the BVI in second, and Rocco Falcone Nicolosi was the highest-placed girl. and St. Thomas. They had a There were six sailors in this class, from St. John, St. Croix great weekend completing 17 races over the two days. Andrew Barlas from St. Race Boats for heavy sailors and Men’s Olympics) was and juniors) was Abby Thomas. The winner in the Laser 4.7 Class (for smaller sailors (for lighter sailors and Maddox of the BVI. The winner in the Laser Radial Class Women’s Olympics) was Rhone Findlay from St. Maarten the VIODA Championship first event was the Cruzan Open in St. Croix followed by three events to be scored. All Regatta in St Thomas. Competitors must sail two of the first, Teddy Nicolosi; sec- of the winners of the VI Triple Crown are from St. Thomas: girl was Mia ond, Mateo Di Blasi; and third, Christopher Sharpless. Highest-placed Nicolosi; she was also fifth overall. Lounge” on their deck.generously allowed the club to create a “Dinghy Champs made the perfect venue forWith very comfortable furniture lent by The Moorings, it to enjoy after racing. spectators to watch the racing and for the participants visit www.royalbviyc.org. and the chief fundraiser for the year. The money raised in this event goes entirely to money raised in this event fundraiser for the year. The and the chief and in support of instructor wages Development Programme the Youth Sailing and acquisition. equipment maintenance three age categories. Eldridge the BVI, and third to Maria to Nathan Haycraft from Thomas, second from Antigua. from the BVI. and third to Thad Lettsome Di Blasi from St. Thomas, second to Mateo Falcone from Antigua, and third to Robert Hunter from Thomas, second to Rocco St. Thomas. lowed by Andrew Waters and crew on Latitude 18 all winning at least one of , and Norman de Costa’s , dominated CSA Class 1 Impulse Rapajam and Bruggadung 2 arrived from Grenada to take first overall in a hard- the guru of the race management website regattaguru. the guru of the race management

Hawk Eye, Glory Daze , fresh from a Bequia Easter Regatta win, was invincible. Die Hard , traded seconds and thirds. In CSA 2, David Spieler’s Beneteau , traded seconds and thirds. In CSA 2, David Spieler’s Beneteau

Leonora C-Mos

Paul Miller, came and taught the results team how to use the regattaguru Paul Miller, came and taught REGATTA REGATTA Barbados May Regatta 2014 The Barbados May Regatta, held May 15th through 18th Renata Goodridge reports: Paul Johnson’s Beneteau First Class Ten, Robbie Yearwood’s

The winds were good, and the sailors played well out in the playground, allowing The winds were good, and the sailors played well out in For final results visit www.sailbarbados.com or www.regattaguru.com. Excellent Turnout for BVI Dinghy Championships of May 17th and 18th at The BVI Dinghy Championships took place the weekend St John, St Thomas, St. There was an excellent turnout, with visiting sailors from Programme This regatta is the flagship event for the Youth Sailing Development NEWS saw 16 boats compete in races held up and down the south and west coasts of the held up and down the south and west coasts of the saw 16 boats compete in races and Grenada joined local sailors to compete for island. Visiting racers from Trinidad prizes in four classes. This year, with all bullets, while Ralph Johnson’s Beneteau, Soverel 43, online scoring system, which ties in to the CSA database. What a treat that was! online scoring system, which com, Oceanis 473, fought J/24 Class, with this class’s six races. Yacht Club, a continu- for the fun to continue on land. The venue was the Barbados Rum and Banks Beer. ing main sponsor for the regatta, along with Mount Gay to bring in the band Satellite sponsors were crucial this year, allowing the organizers and a great camarade- Mootown for the Friday night party. Good music and drinks, rie kept the parties well attended. winds of six to 12 knots, calm Nanny Cay, Tortola. The conditions were excellent with seas and stunning clear visibility. the water, which included 33 Maarten, St. Croix and Antigua: a total of 50 boats on is for both young and old Optimists and seven IC24s. The BVI Dinghy Championships sailors alike. JULY 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 12 Saturday andtheofficialshadtobesummonedsince agents. Wehappenedtoarrivebeforenoonona for theconvenienceofCustomsandImmigration Flynn Marinaradioedustocomealongsidetheirdock sheltered watersofWestHarbor,thestaffErrol was PortAntonio.Uponseeingourapproachintothe Haiti, weheadedwesttoJamaica.Ourfirstportofcall from thesea. NOTHING compareswithseeingthisgemofanisland from easttowestataleisurelypace,discoveringthat the luxuryofcruisingnortherncoastJamaica board ourBavaria46Cruiser, fourth triptotheisland—ourfirstjourneythereon previous trips.However,thisApril,whenwetookour bit oftheactivitiesislandhadtoofferduringour Jamaica’s naturalbeautyandhadexperiencedquitea island onourfloatplan.Wefeltlikewe’dseenmuchof seasons, myhusband,Dan,andIhappilyputthe This year,aftersailingtheEasternCaribbeanforthree vacations afterward.ThatwasBC(BeforeCruising). eagerly returnedtoJamaicaonthreemoreweeklong first responsetoitwasinthemid-Eightiesandwe than thatofsometheislands Above: Withmorethan100,000people,MontegoBay’spopulationisgreater virtually empty and were never charged an entry, cruising permit or exit fee virtually emptyandwereneverchargedanentry,cruisingpermitorexitfee Caribbean. Butincontrast,RoseandDanfoundmanyJamaicananchorages Port AntoniotoLucea,thenaroundtheisland’snorthwesttipBloodyBay byRoseBoyan COMEBACK... After ashortbutbusyreststopinIle-à-Vache, Port Antonio THE Right: Exit Strategy cruisedJamaica’snorthcoast,easttowest,from Chicago areaeonsago.Our Jamaica thatraninthe travel adcampaignfor title ofthispieceechoesa Exit Strategy Exit Strategy —

we had visited in the Eastern visitedintheEastern

DESTINATIONS Walk slow.”ItwasthenthatIlearnedwehadcrossed remember —thisnotChicago;Jamaica,mon. closing. Hejokinglyscoldedmewith,“Youmust because Ithoughttherewasonlyonehourleftbefore boat towaitfortheImmigrationagent.Iwasinahurry into towntogetonewhilemycaptainstayedonthe that dayandPaulgraciouslyofferedtoaccompanyme about gettinganewSIMcardbeforethestoreclosed and thenearbytownofPortland.Iwasconcerned us warmlyandgaveafullorientationofthemarina come toJamaica!) since hewassodelayed.(ThataveryNICEwel- cerely, sayingthathewouldn’tchargeusovertime 6:30 the Immigrationofficialcouldnotgetthereuntil They departedwithoutcollectinganyfee.However, were directandnosearchofthevesselwasdone. arrived afterward.Thepaperworkandtheirquestions in anothervesselacrossthemarinadock,sothey 4:30 their officehoursofMondaythroughFriday9:00 priate overtimefeeifyouneedtoclearin/outbeyond they wereoffduty.Generally,chargeanappro- Paul, thedockmasterofErrolFlynnMarina,greeted PM PM . Whenhefinallyarrived,apologizedsin- . TheCustomsandDEAagentswereclearing ...TO JAMAICA! AM to river inthemorning.(Unbelievable!) apprentice polerswouldpoletheraftsbackUP platter). Wetippedourpoler,Howie,whosaidthat (US$10), flowers,orlunch(US$5/chickenfish boo flutes(US$5)orBarbie-sizedreplicarafts waded outtosellusdrinks/doobies/coconuts/bam- politely interruptedeverysooftenbyvendorswho hours. Itwasasplendidlypeacefulridethat about eightmileslongandtookusthreeahalf round trip;raftfortwowasUS$72).Thetrip information ashedrove(US$50forfourpeople Grande River.Ourtaxidriver,Phillip,wasafountof another cruisingcoupleandrafteddowntheRio or ReachFalls,FortGeorge.Weteamedwith Portland, suchastouringTheBlueHole,Somerset an assortmentofinterestingislandactivitiesfrom tain wasnotpleasedwiththecosmeticresult. without delay.Theweldwasgood,althoughmycap- nated asmallweldingjobtobedoneonoursternrail happy toarrangeanyboatrepairservices.Hecoordi- the fueldock.He,likePaul,wasverypersonableand vice office,whichislocatedacrossthebayjustbeyond for aboutUS$24percouple. wahoo andsnapperplatterdinnerswithdrinksthere grill andbarofferingtastylocaldishes.Weenjoyed gate; weindulged,ofcourse!Thereisabeachwith mended anicecreamshopjustwestofthemarina is housedinthemainbuilding.Paulalsorecom- the feelofbeingataposhresort.Afancyrestaurant tionally cleanandbeautifullylandscapedgave arrange fortourguides/taxis.Themarinawasexcep- dock/anchor. Thestaffisveryhelpfulandcan trash disposal,showers,pool,bar,andfreeWiFiat in marinaofficeforUS$3.50eachwash/dry), This feeincludesdo-it-yourselflaundry(buytokens out, youcanusethemarinafacilitiesforUS$15/day. marina forareasonablerate.Ifyouchoosetoanchor good holding,orthereisoftenaslipavailableatthe the WestHarborofPortAntonioin20to30feetwith into anothertimezone(CST)togainanhour. The marinastaffcansuggestorhelpyouarrange George isthemanagerforErrolFlynn’smarineser- Ample roomexistsforvesselstoanchoreasilyin —Continued onnextpage JULY 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 13 Antifouling Paint Paint Brushes Epoxy Resins Sanding Paper & Discs Hand & Power Tools Houseware & Cookware —Continued on next page was the only occupied boat there. was the only occupied boat arrival port was Port Antonio. Dan Exit Strategy Exit Strategy’s Just past the town along the coast to the west, we town along the coast to the Just past the Oracabessa of the bay, a buoy As we approached the entrance We arrived on a Sunday expecting loud music and We arrived on a Sunday Surprisingly, the volume of general weekend craziness. level and the beaches were the music was at a pleasant property is around the empty by sundown. A resort eastern point from Oracabessa. breads), market, and restaurants. breads), market, gentle, shady Haldane, ascending a hiked to Fort dripping with and breadfruit trees incline amid ackee appeared to From the fort we spied what their bounty. the coast by reef to snorkel just off be an interesting Noel Coward’s below. One could tour St. Mary’s Church local bus to in Port Maria or take the home, Firefly, (Jamaica has the attractions there. Kingston to visit choices if one public transportation reliable, affordable The Marine Police boat uses the buses or route taxis.) anchored in Port Maria to stopped by while we were wished us a good trip review our papers; the officers through Jamaican waters. funny — there were fish- posted a “NO FISHING” sign; it! Oracabessa is a ing markers floating all around that someone put a lot small, picturesque anchorage It is woefully underutilized. of thought and money into. walls line the outer bay Beautifully constructed stone outer breakwater, yet the while huge boulders form an fishing boats line the slips stand empty. Many small deserted boats were at beach and three seemingly anchor. Left: admires the Errol Flynn Marina from an irresistible ice cream shop Below: The fishing fleet in an underutilized gem of a bay: tranquil Oracabessa e-mail: [email protected] Stainless Fasteners Stainless Fittings VHF Radios Flares & Life Jackets Snorkeling Equipment Fishing Gear Fax: (758) 452 0311 FOR YOUR MARINE HARDWARE, AND MORE YOUR MARINE HARDWARE, FOR was no place to secure it, but he assured us that it to secure it, but he assured was no place Police Station safe there with the would be totally left to walk him at his word and nearby. We took a bakery that has grocery stores, around the town coco our first taste of many Jamaican (where we had Johnson Hardware Ltd. Chain & Rope Anchors & Fenders Electric Wire Marine Hoses Bilge Pumps Lubricants & Oils

Tel: (758) 452 0299 Tel:

Continued from previous page Continued from We went ashore near the Police Station and Brandon Port Maria We planned our cruise to move along Jamaica’s When you’re ready to cruise out of Port Antonio or Portland has a good-sized market area with count- The town of Portland is a five-minute walk from the from the is a five-minute walk The town of Portland

Rodney Bay, St. Lucia

helped us pull the dinghy up onto the beach. There northern coast easily. Our second anchorage was in northern coast easily. Our second anchorage was in Port Maria, where there appears to be no port, although it was a lovely place to stop. We had the entire bay to ourselves. any other Jamaican port where you cleared in, you any other Jamaican port where you cleared in, you must meet with Immigration again to get a coastwise cruising Transire/permit and you will have 24 hours to leave. We asked for a cruising permit to Montego Bay, since that would cover most of the northern coast. Cruisers do not have to check in with authori- ties in between, even if they stop in a port that has Customs and Immigration. less choices of fresh fruits, vegetables, clothing, spices, less choices of fresh fruits, vegetables, clothing, spices, and tourist items. In retrospect, I would avoid buying anything there from someone who befriends you and urges you to purchase from a specific vendor, as more often than not that vendor will have the HIGHEST prices and no change. Portland has a few bakery shops and small grocery stores, as well as a larger store about a mile on the road east of town. Not all stores will accept credit cards and those that do may experience problems with their credit card processing machines. Ask before you load your cart and again while shopping, or carry plenty of cash. ties, so the main streets were somewhat torn up, but ties, so the main streets were somewhat torn up, but you’ll be able to find most of what you want if you need to provision. Three banks/ATMs are close by and Scotia gives the choice of withdrawing US or Jamaican dollars. (Jamaican $109 = US$1 in April 2014.) Digicel and Lime stores were also nearby and Digicel offered a generous USA call package of 1,000 minutes for US$12.75. marina and a number of restaurants and cafés rec- number of restaurants and marina and a Portland is Paul can be found there. ommended by utili- its water/sewage/electric currently upgrading — JULY 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 14 will beoutofthequestion.Thebestplanappearsto tour, andthenyourdesireforanearlymorningtour driving fortwohoursbeforereachingyoutobeginthe you wanttotourfromMontegoBay,theguidewillbe may meanthatiftheguidelivesnearOchoRiosand where ontheisland.Thatispossible,ofcourse,butit she willtellyouthattheycantaketouringany- guides areplentiful.Whenyoubookwithaguide,he/ is bigbusinessintheislandandattractions was pleasant,knowledgeable,andpatient. touring intheOchoRios/DiscoveryBayvicinity,ashe (876-349-0225 orwww.buentoursjamaica.com)for not onthecruiseshipitinerary.WerecommendMartin more interestedinatriptotheBlueHoleFallsthatis Shaw Gardens,orparasailing.Butcruisersmaybe as theever-popularDunn’sRiverFalls,Coyobaand may notholdtrueifyouneedboatservices. ter pricesongoodsincludingtouristtrinkets,butthat Market. OchoRiosisalargerport,soyouwillfindbet- and grocersarelocated—THEBobMarley where manycruiseshipmalls,ATMs,streetvendors, by. Fromthereitwasashortwalktothemainroad Ingrid. Shealsorecommendedgoodrestaurantsnear- unlocked afterbeingwarmlywelcomedbytheguard, rity bythecruiseshipdock,whereweleftourdinghy marina thatcaterstodaytripboatswith24-hoursecu- lovely tosnorkelinrightoffthestern.Thereisasmall the anchorage.Thewaterwasperfectlyclearand in port.Whentheshipleft, because onlyoneshipcameinthewholetimewewere cruise shipwasnotasannoyingonewouldimagine use themtoscrapethebarnaclesoffyourhull. were wonderfultosnorkel,butyoureallydon’twant underwater rocksontherightsideofentrance!They if youstopatOracabessa—stayawayfromhuge the perfectplacefortranquilwalks.Awordofwarning — [email protected] www.barefootyachts A wordaboutJamaicantoursandguides:Tourism There areanumberofattractionsinthearea,such Being anchoredbetweenareefandthebowof Ocho Rios This anchorageislocatedwelloffthemainroadand Continued frompreviouspage Since 1984 BAREBOATCHARTERS-FULLY CREWEDCHARTERS-ASASAILINGSCHOOL

Exit Strategy Tel.1-784-456-9526 /93349144Fax.1-784-456-9238 POBox39, BlueLagoon,StVincent,WestIndies eil etl •Soes •AirTravel •HotelReservations •Moorings •Boutique •BookExchange •SurftechSurf Shop •Diesel&Propane •Restaurant &Bar •Wi-Fi/InternetCafé •Showers •Laundry • On-siteAccommodation • QuiksilverSurfWear •RefrigerationWork • IslandTours •FibreglassRepairs • Ice&Water •RaymarineElectronics • VehicleRentals • Mechanical&ElectricalRepairs • DoyleSailLoft&CanvasShop stoodalonein Barefoot Yacht Centre &Marine Charters near Lucea Below: TheWashingMachineatMayfieldFalls to thetidepoolsonpointatDiscoveryBay Above: Apleasantwalkfromtheanchoragetakesyou local smoke;nevertheless,itwasenlighteningtodis- them. Attimes,wefoundourselvesinacloudofthe impressed atourwillingnessto“rubelbows”with only visitorsashoreandthelocalsseemedgenuinely three sailboatsanchoredthere,yetwewereoftenthe best choiceswemadewhileinJamaica.Wejoined smattering ofbeachsidebarsandgrills,wasonethe ing swell.Anchoringthere,wherelocalsfrequenta Discovery Bayandlettheouterreefdeflectanannoy- spot. that itdidnotdeterusfromvisitingthislaid-back operation couldbeseenontheright.We’regrateful take thebustosomeattractions. which youwilldepart.Visitorscanalsorentacaror to hireaguidewholivesneartheanchoragefrom Upon enteringthissizablebay,abauxite-mining Discovery Bay Exit Strategy tuckedintotheeasternsideof was beingdoneonshorefromdawntodusk. river leavesthewaterabitcloudyandconstruction cruise andcontainershipterminal.Runofffromthe limited. Tomakemattersworse,itisadjacenttothe and yettheareasuitableforanchoringwasextremely Rae Rivercanalsobeaccessedfromthispoint. its popularrestaurant.RaftingtripsdowntheMartha bioluminescence phenomena,islocatedhere,aswell mangroves. GlisteningWaters,aplacetoexperiencethe much fartherintotheshallowestpartofbayin cruise shipcomplexonourwaybacktothedinghy. Jamaican historypostedalongthewalkwayin We alsonoticedanimpressive,educationaldisplayof Walk thatprovidesanaccountofitscolonialhistory. has aself-guidedwalkingtourcalledtheHeritage restaurants, andstreetsideveggievendors.Falmouth and foundplentyofsmallgrocers,bakeries,ATMs, somewhat sleepy.Wetraipsedaroundthemainstreets departed biddingusfairwinds. of ourcruisingpermitwhileinFalmouthHarborand sion. Acoastguardvesselcametomakeaquickcheck contact Mr.BoenofthePortAuthoritytogetpermis- that thenexttimewewanttousedockmust They welcomeduswithouthesitationandexplained explained ourplighttothesecuritypeopleatgate. made ourwaythroughthecruiseshipcomplexand find. Withnoshipin,thedockwasdeserted,sowe daytrip boatdockbecauseitwastheonlyonewecould ghy tothetownofFalmouthandsecureditat ers, althoughtheholdingwasgood.Wetookdin- was murkyandshallowwithasprinklingoffishmark- break upourtripandwerealoneoncemore.Thewater during ourshortvisit.Weanchoredtheremerelyto described aninterestingGreenCavetournearby. tacting Martin,ourpreviouslymentionedguide,who main roadtothewestbeforebauxiteplant,orcon- taking awalktoColumbusPark,whichisalongthe explored. Otheractivitiesyoumayconsiderinclude rels justoutsidethebeachbarareaalongroad. or tubersaroundthebay.Trashcanbeleftinbar- speedboats fromthebeachhousespulledwaterskiers kites beingskillfullyflownoffthebeach.Sometimes on theweekends.Wewereinaweoflargeattractive beach downandistypicallyfilledwithlocalsmusic smaller grocersandrestaurants.SecoBeachisone gas station.Ifyougoleftonthemainroad,you’llfind self laundry,veggie/fruitstands,ataxistand,and and you’llfindhardwarestores,grocers,ado-it-your- road leadstothemainroad.Makeanotherrightthere pools. Ifyouleavethebeachandgorightinstead, coast, whereyoucanfurtherexploresomegreattide borhood thatlinesthecoast.Theroadendsat quiet strollthroughtheexclusivebeach-houseneigh- so walkoffthebeachtoroadandturnleftforanice essary. DiscoveryBayisaniceplacetowanderaround, watching itforyoutoearnatip,butreallyisn’tnec- the beachnearCrisnic’s.Someonemayinsiston avoid surprises. are reasonable,butaskthepricewhenyouorderto snapper andbreadfruit.TheplatterpricesatCrisnic’s meals: conchstew,ackeeandsaltfish,stewed where onthreeoccasionsweateauthenticisland longer. OurfavoriteplacewasCrisnic’sSeafoodstall talking philosophy,perhapstokeepusonthebeach who rakedthebeachcleandaily,wasinterestedin cuss localissueswiththem.Aachibold(hisspelling), Montego Baywasoneofthelargestbayswe’veseen, Montego Bay Other activityalternativesinFalmouthHarborlie In theabsenceofacruiseship,Falmouthseemed The cruiseshipdockisdone,butnoshipswerein Falmouth Harbor The reefsattheentranceofDiscoveryBaybegtobe It waseasyandsafetosecurethedinghyatreeon —Continued onnextpage .com JULY 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 15 Fuel Dock Car Rental Service 24hrs security 110/220 A/C Power Services Provisioning Below: The calm waters of Lucy are a perfect playground! Beach Bar & Restaurant Service Taxi / Showers Bathrooms Charter Services Wifi Open Free Just down the street from there, we happened upon We spent a month cruising Jamaica and have only When are YOU going to come back to Jamaica? Booby Cay was a short ride away and had dinghy a short ride away and Booby Cay was by walking beyond The main road can be accessed say, we thoroughly enjoyed the caves and, after show- ering, showed our appreciation to the restaurant by chowing down on some local cuisine featuring Rasta Pasta (with ackee), curried goat, and red snapper. a few good souvenir shops; one sold original crocheted bikinis for only US$25. Afterward, we learned that you can also cliff jump at Jimmy Buffet’s Margaritaville at no cost if you purchase food or drinks. explored half of the possible anchorages. What we trea- sured most about this lush island was the warmth of the people, its natural abundance, and the solitude! ashore. Public restrooms are located on the beach restrooms are located ashore. Public end of the Office, which is at the south near the Nature was a real the beach in Bloody Bay vendors. Walking effort used to to its length and the workout, thanks corridor, but pitches along the vendors’ fend off sales to which we would return! it is still a beach coral reef while you snorkeled. The moorings to use and the diverse fish population displayed a vibrant, six year old enough for a four and current was gentle and has a few paths to to manage. Booby Cay is small Daily seafood beach wander and some rustic swings. midday and cold beverages barbecues happen there at are also available. take a taxi or route taxi the Nature Office. One can route taxi driver from there to explore. A recommended (876-577-5833). Seymour and tour guide is Seymour will customize tours from (love the appropriate name) west coast is known Bloody Bay or Negril. Jamaica’s intent on experiencing for its cliffy shore and we were be accomplished at the those cliffs. We read that could a fee, so off we went. Push Cart Restaurant without the Push Cart Restaurant Seymour drove five of us to trip after other taxi driv- in West End for US$30 round when we arrived at the ers quoted us US$50. However, that the new owners restaurant we were informed We were sorely disap- didn’t allow jumping anymore. us to the area where the pointed, but then they showed and said we could still jumping used to be allowed swim. There are number of caves there (it was previously called Pirates Caves) and one reportedly reaches underground to the other side of the road! Needless to Left: Vendors afloat offer refreshments on the Rio Grande rafting trip St. Vincent & the Grenadines St. . Sea stars Mini Mart Laundry Service Book Exchange Shop Sail Loft/Canvas Restaurant Black Pearl was the lone vessel was the lone Free Cruising Guide Exit Strategy In Lucy, one can find a fresh goods market, grocers, Bloody Bay The winds increased considerably as we rounded the Lucea (“Lucy”) uniquely “Lucy” by Jamaicans, was Lucea, called were easily spotted here because the water was spar- kling clear. The bottom was sandy with patches of grass, making for good holding. Many day-trip boats anchor in the bay, but only one other cruiser joined us during our stay. High-end all-inclusive resorts line the southern half of Bloody Bay, while family type all- inclusives occupy the north end; neither welcome outsiders on their property. In the middle, there are beach vendors galore! Parasailing trips can be arranged chatted with Pet as we waited for the rain to subside. My favorite topic is island foods and I saw that Pet had a variety of fruits growing in her yard. By the time the rain had stopped, she had her teenaged son gather some breadfruit and naseberries for us to take gratis. food vendors, bakeries, ATMs, and small tourist shops. Ask for Captain Percy in town if you’d like local fishing information. Be sure to make note of Lucy’s clock tower: it was inadvertently intercepted in a shipment bound for the island of St. Lucia. Other activity options around Lucy include walking to the Hanover Museum just west of the fort or touring Mayfield Falls, which is a series of 21 refreshing waterfalls and pools of various sizes. Another place to secure your dinghy in Lucy is on the eastern shore by the construction site with David (a.k.a. “Baby”). For a fee, he will lock the engine in a garage and watch the dinghy on the shore. northwestern tip of the island and we blazed into the anchorage at Bloody Bay. First, we dropped the hook at the south end of the bay, but it became too rolly, so we moved to anchor in the northern section, as recommended in Virgintino’s there. After a short downpour, the water was cloudy short downpour, the water there. After a excellent. We but the holding was from river run-off, so we ven- for a dock and saw none, scanned the coast trees alonga clump of banana and ackee tured toward there. As we if we could tie up the shore to determine indicated that a friendly looking lady exited the dinghy, safely next to her house.we could indeed tie up there going west of the town toThen we walked up the road part of the fort ruinsfind Fort Charlotte. Currently, but one can still walk tohouse a portion of a school, cut-stone walls. On thesee the cannons along the great again, so we took refugeway back, it began to shower namely Pet’s Snackbar. Wein a small roadside stand, quaint. It is situated in an expansive, protected baysituated in an expansive, quaint. It is and, once again, Dockage per foot per day: Monohull $0.77 Catamaran US$1.15 Gasoline and Diesel are available dockside at the government regulated price MARINA RATES: MARINA VHF: 16 / 68 VHF: oon Hotel & Marina g

lue La Free Rum Punch for all arriving boats! arriving all for Punch Rum Free B Blue Lagoon Hotel & Marina Blue Lagoon Sunsail Marine Center) (Formerly Nestled in the quiet waters in Ratho Mill, of Blue Lagoon Vincent & the Grenadines St. 1 784 458 4308 | Tel: [email protected] Continued from previous page Continued from The Pier I Restaurant on the coast in downtown Once outside the MBYC gate, a five-minute walk to Once outside the MBYC gate, a five-minute walk to The MBYC staff called the Customs and Immigration The MBYC staff called the Customs What took the sting out of this location was that the sting out of this location was What took the Montego Bay has a dinghy dock, but is about a mile- long dinghy ride across the windy chop from the anchorage at the MBYC. We learned that yacht captains can also arrange to meet Customs and Immigration officials there. The Pier I Restaurant has ATMs nearby and is close to the market, where one can spend days shopping for fresh provisions or sou- venirs. There are some amazing sights to see in and around downtown Montego Bay, with or without a guide, such as the Sam Sharp Square, the “Hip Strip” (beaches and bars just east of downtown), and the Rose Hall Great House Museum. the left got us onto a beautiful stretch of sand at the left got us onto a beautiful stretch of sand at Seawind Beach Club where one can relax, lunch, snorkel, or swim for about US$6 per adult. One evening, we took a 15-minute stroll to eat a delightful dinner at the House Boat Restaurant and hired a cab to return after dark. A 25-minute easy trek from the MBYC got us to the Mega Mart to provision. Then we found a route taxi driver in the parking lot to take us back. Peter, our route taxi driver, was quite a conver- sationalist and upon learning that we liked ackee, the national fruit of Jamaica, he gifted us with a heavy bag of cleaned, ripe ackee! (Reach Peter at 876-409- 6540; US$5 fare to MBYC from Mega Mart.) Mega Mart is located in a mall-type area with other shops and ATMs. paperwork. Since we planned to continue cruising paperwork. Since we planned to continue cruising onward to Negril on Jamaica’s western shore, we were required to meet with them again 24 hours before leaving Montego Bay to get a new cruising permit. No fees were ever charged during our time in Jamaica. officials for us and we met at the marina to do the officials for us and we met anchorage is next to the Montego Bay Yacht Club, next to the Montego Bay anchorage is has the dinghy dock. In fact, the MBYC which has a is the only on that end of the bay and only dinghy dock dropped the Bay! That said, we marina in Montego for the con- US$6 per person, per day hook and paid restrooms the MBYC facilities: posh venience of using water, tennis a secure dinghy dock, fuel, and showers, or anchor, exchange, free WiFi at dock courts, book tour arrangements. (Drop- game room, pool, taxis or available for US$12 per off-only laundry service was Seahorse Restaurant had ten-pound load.) The MBYC nightly dinner specials attentive service and delicious rates. at surprisingly reasonable — JULY 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 16 The banksaredottedwithexoticthatched-roof “huts”;however,someofthesehuts rock. Itisbreathtakinghere:withthetremendous rainfall,everythingisabrilliantgreen. cruise uptheriver.Thedramaticriverbanks aremagnificentcanyonsmadeofvolcanic his entrance. heard fromanothercruiserthathewas finedUS$500forbeingonedayoveron received ourcruisingpermit. professional andtookourpassportstothe Immigrationofficetogetstampedandwe at thetimeofthispublicationwas7.70 quetzalstoUS$1.)Girsonwasextremely cost wasUS$169,anditnotaproblemtopayinUSdollars.(Theexchange rate With Girson’sservice,weneverhadtoleavetheboat.Ourboatandcrewcheck in boat documentation,passports,crewlist,and comed ustotheircountry,completewithkissesonthecheek.Theyaskedfor our officials (Customs,Agriculture,Immigration,NavyandPortAuthority).Theyallwel- off thefuelstationandCustomsHouse.Hearrivedontimeina answered andsaidthathewouldseeusinahalfhour.Wedroppedourhook just of entryforGuatemala,wehailedAgentRaulontheVHF16/68.Hisnephew,Girson, Puerto Barrios.Wesaid,“Buenosdias.¡Noproblemaandgracias!” VHF16, tocautionusthatwewouldencountermoreshiptrafficasapproached hometown, Houston,Texas.WereceivedafriendlycallfromthePortAuthorityon Puntas. Thereweencounteredanenormouscargoshipthatwasboundforour tuna ontheway.Sushi-rama!WedidnotseeanyothervesselsuntilwereachedTres more sunshine,excellentdivingandexploringbeforeheadingout. in theRio,westayedRoatanuntillastminutetoindulgeourselvesalittle at Mario’sMarinaintheRioforhurricaneseason.Sinceitwasrainyseason ture fromElizabethCity,NorthCarolinatoNorfolk,Virginia.Wemadeareservation had notourtrimaran, frogs, andthelightningbugsthatglowindarknesseverynight. fly-by, alongwithaconcertofholleringhowlermonkeysintherainforest,singing ed bythesoundsofjungle.Largeflocksparrotsareperformingasquawking After a one-hour check-in process, we were on our way for a three-and-a-half-hour After aone-hourcheck-inprocess,wewere onourwayforathree-and-a-half-hour Reminder: Theinitialentranceisgoodfor exactly90days,notthreemonths.We About 30minutesoutsideofLivingston,thetownatstartRioandaport We hadafantasticovernightdownwindsailandcaughtspectacularblackfin We beganourjourneytotheRioDulcebydepartingfromRoatan,Honduras. As wewritethisarticle,thesunissettingonRioDulce,andaresurround- GUATEMALA A BIENVENIDOS Soaking inFincaParaiso’shotspringwaterfalls A traditionallybuiltdwellingonthebanksofRioDulce Abundance isahallmarkofGuatemala’sproducemarkets The authorsonthesuspensionbridgeatHaciendaTijaxJungleReserve Clockwise fromtop: Guatever! by BillandJoAnneHarris Ultra , infreshwatersinceourUSADismalSwampadven- zarpe (exitpaper)fromourlastport. lancha

DESTINATIONS withfive

longer thanafive-gallonbucket! rants andgreatstreetfood.Theproducewillamazeyou:theysellpapayasthatare water, boatparts,hardwarestores,andanabundanceofveryinexpensiverestau- ing tremendousopen-airproducemarkets,grocerystores,wonderfulbakeries,fuel, when theyhearourdinghymotorfromupthecreek. The wonderfulchildrenalwayscomerunningoutofthehouse,smilingeartoear, small thatchedhutwithreedwallssetonpilings,owingtofloodingandsandflies. almost dailybasistoaMayanfamilylivingononeofthesidecreeks.Theylivein errands, wetookjoyindonatingcarepackagesofclothes,food,toys,etceteraonan the Rio’sbanks. in them.Amongstallofthetropicalvegetation,severalmarinasarespreadoutalong Famous”. Theyincludehigh-techboatdocksandhangerswithgiantSeaRays are extremelylarge—itismorelikeGuatemala’s“LifestylesoftheRichand The townofFronterasprovideduswithawealthshoppingopportunitiesinclud- The onlyoptionoftravelalongtheRioisby lancha ordinghy.Onourwaytodo —Continued onnextpage JULY 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 17 in the Rio, since we were invited by some Ultra . They are currently exploring Panama. They enjoy S/V Ultra Continued from previous page Continued from We had made arrangements to leave We know you will love going to Guatemala! Captains JoAnne and Bill Harris both hold 100-ton USCG Master Licenses and sail If you are interested in inland travel around Guatemala and other areas of Central Based on our fantastic experience, if you are planning on traveling and need a place to We spent a week exploring the town of Antigua and then went on to Lake Atitlan. went on to Lake Atitlan. We spent a week exploring the town of Antigua and then Our adventures ashore in the Rio were many and various. At the Hacienda Tijax many and various. At the ashore in the Rio were Our adventures writing cruising articles for a variety of publications. To follow their sailing adventures visit www.jandbyachtultraadventure.blogspot.com. ‘Our adventures ashore were many and various’ — including a hike to the active Pacaya Volcano aboard their trimaran, and South America, and need a safe place for your boat during hurricane season, then the Rio Dulce is a great place to be. leave your boat in good hands, then Mario’s Marina in the Rio is the place! We took a US$8 per person, six-hour Litegua bus ride to Guatemala City and, from there, an international flight. There are numerous international airlines that operate from the airport. friends we met in Grenada to sail with them in the Med. Marco and Myrna, the marina managers, told us “no problem” and took care of our boat and Sailor Kitty while we were gone on a two-month adventure to Greece, Turkey, England and the USA. In Antigua (nestled between the Agua and Fuega volcanoes), we stayed at a lovely we stayed at a lovely In Antigua (nestled between the Agua and Fuega volcanoes), Highlights included delightful hacienda for three nights and paid US$22 per night. the Museo de Cocoa; cobblestone streets lined with picturesque architecture; (which has erupted since climbing to the highest point possible on Pacaya Volcano tour (it’s an old monas- then); taking the Hotel Casa Santa Domingo & Restaurant cave with decor of numer- tery and museum); an unusual visit to a Mayan shaman coffin with a Christ statue ous rum bottles, hundreds of burning candles, a glass cloth with only the inside, and a wooden statue draped in layers of bright-colored Mayan men sitting on either face exposed and a western-style cowboy hat, with two Obstacle Course Zipline at side drinking excessive amounts of rum; doing the — complete with a 150-plus- Canopy Circo Del Aire at the Santo Domingo Del Cerro a mile for the amazing foot ladder to climb and a cable length run of almost Restaurant (Green Stomach). Superman run; and a divine dinner at Panza Verde Utz Jay for three nights at In Panajachel, Lake Atitlan, we stayed at the Hotel breakfast. We toured US$38 per night, which included a spectacular Guatemalan Cruz, San Marcos, San Juan, the lake via lancha and explored the towns of Santa their beautiful handicrafts, and Santiago, enjoying the friendly Mayan people and and witnessing spectacular sunsets. exotic flora and fauna. Along the way, we saw rubber and teak plantations. We took exotic flora and fauna. Along the way, we saw rubber Finca Paraiso waterfalls and a local 14-passenger van for US$1 to the spectacular during the 45-minute ride to hot springs. The van ride was an adventure in itself: van. Yes, as in farmers riding the falls, we had more than 32 people in and on the down the curvy and hilly on the Toyota minivan’s rooftop luggage rack, speeding out of the side door. The farm roads of Guatemala with the conductor hanging it was a joke. We were defi- driver had told us about this earlier, but we thought nitely blessed to be riding entirely inside of the vehicle! Bill observes market activity in the Spanish colonial town of Antigua Bill observes market activity in the Spanish colonial town Jungle Lodge and Marina we had an energetic and very informative guide, Lucy, who and very informative and Marina we had an energetic Jungle Lodge with an lush Jungle Reserve complete beautiful hike through the took us on a pools, and bridge, refreshing waterfall suspension invigorating 100-metre-high — JULY 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 18 byAlexandraTrachsel SAN BLAS FOR THE BOUND TIPS

DESTINATIONS you outoftrouble. pair ofpolarizedsunglassesandawideberthgivenonwindwardsidewillkeep ously advised!Asalwayswithcoastalnavigation,areliabledepthsounder,good acquiring EricBauhaus’sverywellmadechartbook,anewpairofglassesisseri- on itsside,sadlyrottinginthesun.Ifyoumanagetoputyourboatreefafter departure. Almosteveryislandheremanagestoshowatrophyintheformofhull thus moreshelter. cruising groundsareconcentratedinthewest,whereyouwillfindmoreislands,and cal mileseastofthenorthernentrancePanamaCanal.However,main Caribbean sideofPanama,andrunsallthewaytoPuntaSanBlas,about60nauti- reefs, whichmakesthepurchaseof Left: Above: ‘…heretherearenoexclusivewatchshops,casinos…’ These low-lying,coconut-palm-coveredislandsareallsurroundedbyveryshallow THE Blue Wind atanchoroffJansaladup territory startsattheColombianborderon the indigenousKuna(Guna)people.TheGunaYala called GunaYala,meaningKunaLand,andhometo San BlasislandsofPanamaarepartthedistrict Panama CruisingGuide —Continued onnextpage

amustbefore LIESBET COLLAERT LIESBET JULY 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 19

ELIZABETH BROUSE

: mola was : finely hand-appliquéd and colorful textiles. : finely hand-appliquéd molas in traditional motifs Blue Wind a rectangle of intricate, San Blas islands is a colorful reverse-appliqué work colorful reverse-appliqué work Right: The signature souvenir of the Right: The signature souvenir Propane refills will be done in Elefante. Fresh water from the rivers can be pur- Propane refills will be done where you can enjoy fried Nargana is one of the main villages of Kuna Yala, links to Panama City with Customs and Immigration are in Porvenir, which also and courteous, and that In my personal experience, the Porvenir officials were kind blue skies! To all, respectively as sailors and skydivers say, fair winds, Trachsel is the skipper of The 200 Tons Yacht Captain and Divemaster Alexandra If the bright lights of the big city are a repellent, the local boys on the veggie boats the local boys on the of the big city are a repellent, If the bright lights well stocked up for the duration Left: Arrive in Guna Yala well Left: Arrive in Guna Yala well can provisioned for your stay; you top up with fish, chicken and vegetables there. chased at the dock in Rio Azucar, or at anchor in Nargana. You can also use the Azucar, or at anchor in Nargana. You can also use chased at the dock in Rio but kindly ask for permission if the island is inhabited wells found on the islands, the coconuts; they are Kunas’ property! Do not give them by the Kunas. Do not take away beer cans for recycling, your garbage either: toss leftover food overboard, give sink glass in deep water and burn the rest. Digicel recharge cards for chicken at the local restaurant, and buy bulk beer, find there a pharmacy and phone or Internet, and plenty more supplies. You will plane if you have an itch or a doctor, and a fast ride to Panama City on a little an emergency. passport plus US$193 per small planes. Check-in will see you spend US$100 per Kuna Congreso (a local fee) boat, all valid for one year, plus US$30 dollars to the loaded! — but Kuna Yala does not have one ATM, so come here Indians, the Kunas, who will is the least you can say of the local traditional fishing some of the crappy official (or try their best to accommodate you. I have yet to see Bonaire. not) attitude I have long left in my wake before reaching S/V Blue Wind on a 40-knot run: fun, except for the people prone to seasickness! The price of the prone to seasickness! run: fun, except for the people on a 40-knot will host you taste but the Cruisers Casa depends on your mandatory sleepover have a reservation: http://panamacityconnection.org/beds/cruisers- (provided you price. building for a decent of a very tall downtown casa) in the penthouse good local more or less regular schedule: the following items on a will sell you sausages, beer, Abuelo rum, hotdog Cardboard wine, canned chicken, Chateau fish, lobsters sorts. The Kunas will sell you fruit and veggies of all boxed milk, and well as and crabs, as (575) 436 3601 - 435 8009 - COLOMBIA Continued from previous page Continued from If you need a bit of civilization, anchor your boat in the Lemmon Cays, use a water If you need a bit of civilization, anchor your boat in the If one is looking for the usual stuff that makes the Leeward and Windward Islands the Leeward and Windward for the usual stuff that makes If one is looking Plan to make your landfall in daylight, but if that is not possible, don’t panic! We if that is not possible, don’t your landfall in daylight, but Plan to make taxi to the mainland, then grab a pickup truck to Panama City (US$55 per person, taxi to the mainland, then grab a pickup truck to Panama the South African Wild Coast one way) The jungle ride on four wheels is like sailing no Harley Davidsons or any four wheelers or show-off floating equivalents, no boom- no Harley Davidsons or any four wheelers or show-off backpacker territory with the boom nightclubs, no fancy restaurants — this is plain a bar that will sell you wine, bare minimum. You will find on Banedup and Elefante fish and rice style, which is beer, cigarettes, a few veggies, gasoline and simple food, in Kuna Yala. While hold- the basic local meal. Nature is what you will mostly enjoy a crocodile pass by his ing his coffee mug early one morning, one cruiser watched one saw an eagle ray jump boat; another one found a boa sleeping on deck; a third spearfishing, fishing and right into his dinghy. Kuna Yala forbids foreigners from the status is about kitesurf- scuba diving. Nobody really knows on either side what note that the wind pattern ing, but the snorkeling and stargazing are endless. Take Martin: it increases at night, is opposite of what is characteristic of Grenada or St and decreases in the morning. of the Eastern Caribbean what they are, know that disappointment will most likely know that disappointment Caribbean what they are, of the Eastern no casinos, are no exclusive watch shops, Yala paradise: here there happen in Kuna dropped anchor in the southwest corner of Holland Cays in absolute darkness with- of Holland Cays in absolute in the southwest corner dropped anchor the occasional to scan the horizon for Keep a light ready on deck out any trouble. night in West light on. When arriving by to turn his anchor cruiser who forgets anywhere from the northwest. Arriving the approach must be made Holland Cay, is not advisable. else by night — JULY 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 20 obvious. Itisasharpturntostarboard,course004magnetic,hencethe www.imray.com. magnetic (ratherthan012-192magnetic).Thisisnotedincorrectionsat Channel iscorrect,butthenumbersarewrong.Theyshouldread004-184 Luffing Channel.Anerrorcreptintothechart:range/transitfor were missing.Useeyeballpilotinguntilyoupickupthepostsmarking on TOPofthebowpulpitcouldeasilyspottwoshoalsifouterbuoys channel thatisnarrowtheentrance.Agoodeyeballnavigatorstanding netic, hasledvesselsthroughtheouterchannel.Theonlypartof for wellover100yearsthechurchonhill,bearing304degreesmag- entrance totheharboristhroughreef. into Grenvilleby1400orbeforesothesunisbehindyouoverhead.The these bays,hencetheblow-uponnextpage. that norealdecisionscanbemadeastotheviabilityofanchoragesin The scaleoftheImrayIolairechart,andallotherchartsthisareaissuch blow, andyouareanchoredinoneofthesedesertedcovesby1100hours. Martinique toTrinidad ages toLascarCove,PetitTrouorRequin(seepages160162ofmy rarely ifeveraltercoursemorethanfivedegreesin24hours. day, rememberingthathurricanesapproachingtheEasternCaribbean ing duringhurricaneseasonyoumustlistentotheweatherreportevery exploring, puttingGrenvilleonyouritinerary.Needlesstosay,whilecruis- hurricane seasoninGrenada,enjoythesesailingconditionsanddosome weather withanice12to15knots,dayafterday.Ifyouarebasedfor a coupleofsummerdaysandexplorethenortheastcornerGrenada. on theisland’swindwardside.GrenvilleHarbourisaperfectplacetospend make itmucheasiertovisitGrenvilleHarbour,areef-protectedanchorage Channel athightideand12feetinsidetheharbor.Thenewnavigationaids and posts,IhaveverifiedthatthereistenfeetofwaterthroughLuffing an AttractiveDestination If thenewbuoysandpostseverdogomissing,breakinreefis Although maintenanceofnavigationalmarkshassometimesbeenpoor, From RequinnorthtoGrenvilleisonlysixmiles.Organizeyourarrival It isafive-orsix-milebeatfromGrenada’spopularsouth-coastanchor- The monthsofJulyandAugustcanprovidesomeexcellentcruising The harborofGrenada’ssecondcity,Grenville,isnowmarkedbybuoys Grenada’s SecondCity New BuoyageMakes guide).Startearly,beforethewindreallystartsto by DonStreet

DESTINATIONS you falldowncanjuststandupandclimbbackonyourboard. windsurfing orSUP,asthewindwardhalfofharborisonlythreefeetdeep—if water iscalmbecauseofthebarrierreeftowindward.Itaperfectplacelearn with goodholding.Youareinawonderfulwindswept(bug-free)anchorage,butthe four. Ifyoudrawoversixfeet,trytoenterathightide. in winterandLowWaterSpringssummerisaboutthreefeet,occasionally May, JuneandJulythanitisinwinter.ThedifferencebetweenHighWaterSprings reply. Thisisaproblem,sincetheCaribbeanSea12to18incheslowerinlate what month,andatspringsorneaps?—HighWaterwasestablished,Ihavehadno the least!Headmidwaybetweenreefs. name LuffingChannel,assailtrimmingontheoldcargoschoonerswasslowtosay Onceinside,roundupandanchorinroughly12feetofwater,asandbottom Note: Despiteanumberofe-mailstotheGrenadaPortAuthorityaskingwhen— —Continued onnextpage northeastwinds’ duringstrong beexperienced GrenvilleBaywill theentranceto ‘Breaking seasacross Authority warns: Grenada Ports time tovisit.Asthe Summer isthebest JULY 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 21 , both engine- Li’l Iolaire and In calm weather there are some possible anchorages between Grenada’s south coast and Grenville; Street suggests Lascar Cove, Le Petit Trou or Requin Iolaire If you have a red-hot crew, a boat that sails to windward well and tacks reliably, sails to windward well and red-hot crew, a boat that If you have a From here, you can head on up to Carriacou or back down to the south coast, or back down to the can head on up to Carriacou From here, you Left: Circles with an X in the middle mark the buoys that lead into the Grenville Left: Circles with an X in the The correct transits for Luffing Channel are 004/184 Channel. IMPORTANT NOTE: degrees magnetic bor to make sure you are in the center of Luffing Channel. Once clear of Luffing of Luffing Channel. Once sure you are in the center bor to make the chart care- degrees magnetic. Look at east on a course of 124 Channel, head outer entrance the shoals, except for the plenty of water between fully. There is to spot as the the two shoals are easy buoys. If the buoys are missing marked by two up over them. water humps not have all the you can sail out. If you do rock pilot on the bow, and a good eyeball boats power. I have sailed my above go out under less, in and out of Grenville. less, in and out is no doubt still going on… where that game of dominoes Continued from previous page Continued from Leaving the harbor, pick up the range/transit marks on the north side of the har- Leaving the harbor, pick up the range/transit marks The day you leave Grenville Harbour, have an early morning swim, a long leisure- The day you leave Grenville Harbour, have an early morning From Grenville, a number of unique attractions are just a short bus, taxi or rental- From Grenville, a number of unique attractions are just Named for an 18th century British prime minister, Grenville, also known as minister, Grenville, 18th century British prime Named for an ly breakfast and do not depart until 1100 when the sun is high. ly breakfast and do not depart until 1100 when the sun car ride away. Enjoy visiting the nutmeg processing station; Belmont Plantation, a car ride away. Enjoy visiting the nutmeg processing generations; the River Antoine 400-acre plantation run by the same family for three operating rum distillery in the rum distillery, claimed to be the oldest continuously recommended by Grenadians. Caribbean; and Petite Anse hotel and beach — highly shop run by a 98-year-old Sauteurs is a village worth exploring; here there is a small woman who rides to work every day on a donkey. Rainbow City, is home to more than 2,000 inhabitants. As the commercial center for inhabitants. As the commercial is home to more than 2,000 Rainbow City, bars, market, essential amenities of shops, of the island, it has the the eastern part you would expect. etcetera, that — JULY 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 22 the archetypalpalmtreeleaningatadrunken angleatthewater’sedge.Anarrow palm treeswavinginthebreezeagainst acloudlessbluesky—bliss!There’seven back inclearaquamarinewater,looking over mytoesatalongwhitesandbeachand Saltwhistle Bayinthenorthofisland. Swimmingoffthebeach,Ifloatedonmy coast. HavingcomeupthehillfromSaline Bay,theroaddescendsjustassteeplyto changed sincethen! and TeaRoom”,whichsoundsveryformal andsedate;theatmospherehascertainly system. Apparentlytheestablishmentused tobe“Righteous&DeYouthsSnackBar sit andtalktohiscustomerstheaccompaniment ofBobMarleyonthebar’ssound be impairedbyonetoomanyrum-and-cokes.Robertisverylaidbackandloves to eral stepsandchangesoflevelreadytotripupanyonewhoseconcentrationmight the wallscoveredwithmessageswrittenbypreviouscustomers;floorhas sev- red; adornedwithflags,shells,photographsandalmosteveryavailableinch of Robert Righteous.RighteousandDeYouthsbarispaintedgreen,yellow and faded andtatteredflagsdonatedbyvisitingyachtsmen. spotted dartingamongstthefoliage,Dennis’shasasmallbarareadecoratedwith birdsong, surroundedbyahibiscushedgewherehummingbirdscanoccasionally be erman theymetinthebar.Nestlingatropicalgardenfilledwithbrightflowers and a fewbeershegaveawaymyunsuspectinghusband’ssailingoilskinstolocalfish- bar ontheisland.Oneofourfriendsstilltalksabouthow—manyyearsagoafter Hideaway GuestHouse;atonetimeDennis’swastheonlyplacetostayand cooked localfoodandwithfreeWiFiforcustomers.HalfwayupthehillisDennis’ for anotherbeer.Thereareplentyofbarstochoosefrom,somealsoservinghome- palm treesandyouryachtatanchor. which toenjoyabeerwhileadmiringthelongcurvedwhitesandbeachshaded by A woodenpicnictableandbenchseatsunderashadytreeprovidecoolplacefrom with afriezeofsilhouetteswhales,dolphinsandstarfishcutoutundertheeaves. local lady,isacheerfulwoodenbuildingonthesand,paintedwhiteandyellow mum toshowcaseherwares.SandyFeetbeachbar,tendedbyMirabella,anelderly little girlwholurescustomersoverforacuddleorgamewithherball,allowing has anovel(buteffective!)salesployintheshapeofherextremelycuteandfriendly T-shirts andsarongsonthebeachatSalineBay.Anotherlocalstallholdernearby Kevin, andIvisitwealwaysgochattoRosie,alarge,jollylocalladyselling people alwayshavetimetostopsayhelloandtalkyou.Everymyhusband, exceptionally steephillintheheat.Abigpartofcharmislandisthat through thevillage,occasionallyskippingacrossinfrontofusaswetoilup car ontheisland.Goatsandkidsnibblegrassatsideofconcreteroad recently as2002therewasnomainselectricityandDennisFordeownedtheonly inhabitants, allofwhomliveintheonevillagestragglingitswayuphill.As the watersaroundCays,beforeyoumakeyourfirsttripouttoislands. The hilltopisalsoagoodvantagepointforstudyingtheunmarkedreefsthatpepper in theCaribbeanwithmanycharterboatscomingfromasfarafieldMartinique. of yachtmaststestamenttothefactthatthisisonemostpopularanchorages habited islandsthatmakeuptheTobagoCaysareacoupleofmilesoffshore,forest water ineveryshadeofbluefrompalestaquamarinetodeepcobalt.Thefiveunin- breathtaking. ShadingmyeyesfromtheglareofsunIgazeoutovershimmering Various trailsleadovertheisland,including tothesaltpansandwindward Also popularwithcruisers,oneofthemosteclecticbarsonMayreaubelongs to By thetimeyouhavewalkedupextremelysteephilltovillageyou’reready Tiny Mayreauhasatotalareaofoneandhalfsquaremilesfewerthan300 The viewfromthetopofhillbehindlittleCatholicChurchonMayreauis M byChristineGooch

AYREAU AGNETIC ALL ASHORE…

Caribbean aboard island perfectlyforme. sums upthehappy,laid-backfeelof the from theopenwindowofanearbyhouse. It Robert’s bartothesoundofreggaecoming in thesunshinedownhilltowards seeing ourfriendLynettedancingherway boats aroundthentomakeitviable. the hurricaneseason,asthereareenough ent, theywillonlybeoperatingoutsideof from theshore.Iunderstandthat,atpres- trying tokeepaneyeonyachtsatanchor they didn’thaveaboatasyetwere the lastdinghywenthome,andalthough if theskyisclearitwillbefullofthousandsstars. if youhavetowalkbackSalineBay;oncenighthasfallenitisverydark,although trees willcapturetherelaxedatmosphereperfectly.Butmakesureyoubringatorch Bring yourcamera,becausephotosofyachtframedbysilhouettedpalm the skyagorgeousshadeofsoftpeach,graduallydeepeningtovividorangeandred. flowers areagreatplacefromwhichtowatchthesunset.DuskonMayreauturns circular stoneseatsandtablesdecoratedwithconchshellsfilledbougainvillea dotted amongthetrees,andthereisabeachbarwithquaintthatchedgazebos; Hidden amongthetreesisrecentlyrenovatedSaltwhistleBayClub.Roomsare owls, wehavefoundtheirmusiccansometimesbenoisyuntilquitelateatnight). trees danceinthewarmbreeze.Thereareseverallocalbeachbars(notbeingnight beach, brightlycolouredT-shirtsandsarongspeggedonlinesstrungbetweenthe of theislandwherejumpingandtwistingkitesurfersskimoverwater.On sand spitseparatestheprotectedwatersofbayfromrougherwindwardside the jettyatSalineBayfrom6:00 Saltwhistle andSalineBays.Theywereon policeman OwenIsaacs,wasoperatingin consisting ofvolunteersorganizedbylocal March thisyear)adinghysecuritypatrol, up atrailtothevillage. only suitableincalm,settledconditions,butIamtoldyoucangetashoreandwalk never useditourselves;youhavetoeyeballyourwayinthroughthereefand it is for theferrytoturnasitapproachesjetty. ing saltpans)butwestillfindittobethebetteranchorage.Makesureyouleaveroom in SalineBayisthattherecanbeanastysmell(Rosietoldusitcomesfromthedry- anchorage whichisveryrolly,evenonacatamaran.Thedisadvantageofanchoring rely onourowngear,butthismeansyouenduphavingtoanchoratthebackof Saline Bay,asSaltwhistleBayisnowcrowdedwithmooringbuoysandwepreferto directing visitorstoagloriousviewoftheTobagoCays On theleft-handsideofhilltopRomanCatholicChurchonMayreauisasign Vendors sellT-shirtsandpareosunderthecoconutpalmsliningSaltwhistleBay again and A mellowMayreausunsetmanifeststhemagnetismthatdrawssailorsback Clockwise fromleft: Christine andKevinGoocharecruisingthe One ofmybestmemoriesMayreauis When wewerelastinSalineBay(in There isalsoananchorageonthewindwardsideofisland,althoughwehave Even thoughSaltwhistleBayisoneofourfavouriteplacesweusuallyanchorin S/YSweetSensation. PM until the hillfromSalineBay It’s asteepbutworthwhilewalkup JULY 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 23 JULY 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 24 will bequicklyfouled. anchoring ortryingtofindaslipinbusy Cartagenaharborwhereaboat’sbottom leave theirboatsthereandvisitCartagena byroad(stayingovernight),ratherthan America, anddesignatedaUNESCOWorld HeritageSite. cant totheheritageofworld,having themostextensivefortificationsinSouth by theUnitedNationsEducational,Scientific andCulturalOrganizationassignifi- today. Theport,thefortressesandmonuments ofCartagenawereselectedin1984 turies, resultinginthemanymilesofwallssurroundingoldcitythatcanbeseen independence fromSpaincameaneraofrelativepeace. months, itfell.Patriotsretookthecityin1821afteranotherfive-monthsiege.With later alargeSpanishfleetarrivedandonceagainthecitywasundersiege.After five nable. Butin1811,CartagenadeclareditsindependencefromSpainandfouryears This victoryprolongedSpain’scontroloftheCaribbeanwaters. British landingpartywassuccessfullyrepelledbytheSpanishandnativeforces. halted bythestartofrainyseason,afterweeksintensefightinginwhich the 23,600 men,againstsixSpanishshipsandfewerthan3,000men.Thesiege was by AdmiralEdwardVernon,whoarrivedatCartagenawithafleetof186ships and forts restored. damaging thecity.Atstartof18thcentury,wallswererebuiltand the and forts,aFrenchraidonCartagenain1697sawpiratesagainplundering and called themasterbuilderofwalledcityCartagena.” tions, whichincludedsurroundingthecitywithheavycurtainwalls,Murgahasbeen the cityfromanyapproachmainland.Basedonhisworkfortifica- moon’ gatehousewithaconcavecrescentwall,makingitpossibletoinstantlycut off fortify thebridgeconnectingcitywithGetsemanísuburb,buildinga‘half “In 1631heusedprisonersfromtheAnglo-FrenchcoloniesofSt.KittsandNevisto oversee thefurtherstrengtheningofcity’sfortifications.AccordingtoWikipedia: Francisco deMurga,aSpanishsoldierandengineer,wasappointedgovernorto captured thecityin1586.TheSpanishpaidahugeransomtoredeemit.Afterthis, with aseriesofwalls. corsairs attackedCartagena.TheSpanishthenbeganstrengtheningtheirdefenses Spanish NewWorldcitiesauthorizedtotradeAfricanslaves. Cartagena alsobecameaslaveport;andVeracruz,Mexico,weretheonly the nativeinhabitantswereloadedontogalleonsboundforSpainviaHavana.Later, Spain’s treasurefleet.Itwasnamed“CarthageofIndies”afterCartagenainSpain. the moreeasilydefensibleharboratCartagenawaspreferredasalocationfor founded in1525,wasthefirstSpanishsettlementwhatisnowColombia,butsoon to theArawaksandCaribswhosettledAntilles.ThenearbycityofSantaMarta, that wastheSpanishcolonialempire. historic quartersofHavana,CubaorSanJuan,PuertoRicoforaglimpsetheglory ers’ Caribbeanbucketlists,especiallyiftheyhaven’thadtheopportunitytovisit walled cityasaWorldHeritageSite.Itisalsoconsidered“mustsee”onmanycruis- today asthethird-largestcontainerportinCaribbeanandstatusofold energy. Itsstrategiclocationhasgivenitatumultuousmaritimehistory,place After studying up on Cartagena’s history, read a novel or two by Colombian Nobel After studyinguponCartagena’shistory, readanovelortwobyColombianNobel Since theopeningofnewmarinaat Santa Marta,manycruisersnowpreferto Cartagena Today Altogether, constructionofCartagena’sdefensescontinuedformorethentwocen- When Cartagena’sdefenseswerefinishedin1756,thecitywasconsideredimpreg- In March1741,thecitywasattackedbyBritishandAmericancolonialtroopsled Although entrytothecitywashamperedbyrecentlyfinishedfirststageofwalls Despite thesedefenses,SirFrancisDrakearrivedwithapowerfulBritishfleetand The wealthyyoungcitywasanirresistibletargetforpirates,andin1544French Cartagena quicklybecameamajortradingport.Goldandsilverplunderedfrom Before Spanishcolonization,theareawasinhabitedbyindigenouspeoplesrelated Cartagena’s History Cartagena, Colombia—themoststoriedcityonSpanishMainhasaunique Cartagena de Indias A grandentrance.Builtin1601,theprincipalandlastremainingoriginalgatetooldwalledcityistoppedbyaclocktow A Day in ALL ASHORE… north, Cartagena’shot. Now putonyourwalkingshoesandahat,grabwaterbottle;at10.4degrees are sethere,tocatchtheatmosphereof“magicalrealism”thatinfusescitytoday. lunch attheHardRockCafé. shops andflower-sellershere,—don’t turnupyournose—asurprisinglygood of theslavemarket,nowlinedwithcolonial andmodernbuildings.You’llfindbanks, walls, passingthroughtheimpressiveClock Gateintoaspaciousplaza,oncethesite prize winnerGabrielGarcíaMárquez(e.g. Check thelocalweatherathttp://www.cioh.org.co/meteorologia/vientos.php. A walkthroughthehistoricquarterofCartagena takesyouinsidethemassiveold Below: ColonialcathedraltowersareafeatureofCartagena’sskyline Love intheTimeofCholera er thatwasaddedinthe19thcentury —Continued onnextpage

in PlazaBolivar the realplayers Square mimics Pedro Claver players inSan ture ofchess A metalsculp- ), many of which ), manyofwhich WIKIPEDIA

JULY 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 25

WIKIPEDIA Wandering further through Old Cartagena’s narrow streets, you’ll find an intrigu- narrow streets, you’ll through Old Cartagena’s Wandering further the city and the city walls and soak up the sun is lower, explore Finally, when history. on Cartagena’s colonial for much of the information Thanks to Wikipedia ing mélange of high-end hotels and derelict buildings, bustling shoe stores and buildings, bustling of high-end hotels and derelict ing mélange people living their lives. historic buildings and ordinary emerald shops, with ramps or are many access points the battlements. There sea views from that these walls you can almost imagine the ramparts at sunset, stairs. Strolling could talk. Balconies with tall open doors and louvers provide old school AC in Cartagena’s steamy climate (a crude form aguardiente de caña Fuerte San Fernando, circa 1753, was built to Fuerte San Fernando, circa Boca Chica guard the harbor entrance at Continued from previous page Continued from At some point, have a mojito. In 1586, after his successful raid at Cartagena de Another religious building of significance is the restored Santo Domingo Church at Another religious building of significance is the restored Across from the Palace of the Inquisition is the Cathedral of Cartagena, Cathedral of Cartagena, Across from the Palace of the Inquisition is the In leafy Plaza Bolívar, along with outdoor cafés and chess players, is the Palace of cafés and chess players, Bolívar, along with outdoor In leafy Plaza Between the Church of San Pedro Claver and the bastion of San Francisco Javier and the bastion of San Francisco of San Pedro Claver Between the Church Restaurants with an abundant variety of menus and prices are dotted through the menus and prices are dotted an abundant variety of Restaurants with Indias, Sir Francis Drake and his crew set sail for Havana but there was an outbreak of dysentery and scurvy on board. Of course the “limeys” already knew about lime- juice as an anti-scorbutic, but what to do about the traveler’s trots? According to “How The El Draque Cocktail May Have Helped Britannia Rule The Waves” by David Maratos, “It was known that the South American Indians had remedies for various tropical illnesses…. A small boarding party went ashore and came back with ingredients for a medicine that was effective, and so became known as El Draque. It was made up of the following local tropical ingredients: the renowned Colombian artist Fernando Botero, which you can admire from one of the plaza’s open-air cafés. Don’t be put off by the pushy vendors who will approach you selling knock-offs of everything from handbags to sunglasses. A firm “No, gra- cias” will eventually send them on their way. Indigenous people come to town to sell handicrafts such as these colorful woven bags of rum), lime, sugarcane juice and mint. In South America, mint is known as hierba buena, literally, good herb.” Plaza Santo Domingo. In the square is the sculpture “Reclining Woman”, a gift from Plaza Santo Domingo. In the square is the sculpture “Reclining which dates back to the 16th century. obtain confessions. In 1610, the Spanish monarchs established the Inquisition Holy obtain confessions. In 1610, the Spanish monarchs established finished in 1770, preserves Office Court in Cartagena. The Palace of the Inquisition, museum guide is worth its original features of colonial times. An English-speaking most of the implements of the extra fee, although the gory-minded can imagine what torture on display were for. the Inquisition, now a weirdly fascinating museum. The Spanish Inquisition was museum. The Spanish now a weirdly fascinating the Inquisition, to for the detection of heretics, famous for using torture essentially a Catholic court is the Naval Museum, which sailors will find worth a visit. which sailors will is the Naval Museum, city. Adjacent to Plaza de Coches is San Pedro Claver Square, with the church where Pedro Claver Square, with the to Plaza de Coches is San city. Adjacent a casket, as well African slaves”) is kept in Jesuit saint (“Slave of the the body of this Just around the metal sculptures outside. of Modern Art with iconic as the Museum tourist information booth. art museum is a handy corner near the — JULY 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 26 taste ofmoderntechnologythroughthis hole,”hesaid his skull-cap. the wardensconnectahighvoltagewire toaplugon seen whereaprisoneronDeathRowgot friedafter Bertha’s head.Thesceneremindedme of amovieI’d something thatlookedlikeanordinarysparkplug. Hans connectedanearbyhangingcopper wireto sonal connectionwithBigBertha. me rest.” sigh. Asifsaying,“Ohno,notagain.Letmerest. more amatterofrockingitbackandforth. diameter ofalargebuckethascompression.Itwas nomer. Evenasinglecylinderwithpistonhavingthe behind me. with afreezingoceanfillinguptheengineroom ble upajumping,wildrunningpieceofmachinery wheelhouse, wonderinghowImightbeabletoscram- like NiagaraFallsandthatwillbetheendofit!” hull makingabigholewheretheseawillpourthrough herself offhermountsandcrashingdownthroughthe fuel inthere,orshewillgooffonarampage,ripping this miracleofmodernengineering.Wedon’twantany a 1930-modelWichmansingle-cylinderdieselengine. into thepan!” needs someexerciseandthecodcan’twaittoleap streaks ofcrustedsalt. wheels —allcoveredwithrust,oilandoccasional distillery. AtallHeathRobinsonarrayofpipe,levers, resemblance tomygrandfather’sclandestinevodka tion oftheenormousflywheel,ithadnotable unlike anythingIhadeverseenbefore.Withtheexcep- light tounveilamonstrousmechanicalcontraption sons downheretogetoldBerthagoing.” with aquickglanceuptowardsthehorizon. gateway tohell.” whiff ofburntgunpowder. the sweet,nauseatingsmellofdieseloilmixedwitha through theopening.Thewheelhousewasfilledwith private parts. quite understand,somethingabouthismother’s my uncle’sangrycussing. and wheels. interior onanassortmentofoilypipes,levers opening inthewheelhousefloor. no companionwaydownthroughthenarrow up nearlyhalfthevolumeofhull.Therewas iently locatedbeneaththewheelhouseandtook it. HealsohadawaywithBigBertha. Now bitedown.Thankyou.”Hehadawaywith always say.“Thismayhurtalittlebit.Okay. fighting codlayinwait.“Openwide,”hewould waters inthe after 40yearsofdentistry,wasfreetoplythe occasional jellyfish.UncleHans,whohadretired couldn’t catchanythingbutseaweedandthe and, inspiteofusingidenticalequipment,I patient fisherman,hewouldmakegreathauls, numerous fishingtrips.Beingapassionateand the dayUncleHansinvitedmeoutononeofhis to hersurroundings. runaway mode,causinghavocanddestruction and zeal,shewouldsometimesflyintoawild she wasn’ttreatedwiththeutmostpassion Big Bertha’sbehaviourwasunpredictable.If far offincomparison.JustlikeBerthaAnderson, weighed asmuchthedoryitself.Hiswifewasn’t after histhirdwife. ship withthisunusualpieceofmachinery. plants are,afterall,livingorganisms. human being,likesomepeopletalktoplants.But Wichman asmodern!Hewouldtalktoitifwerea Even intheyearof1956,hestilllookedupon modern engineeringsincetheinventionofwheel. ingenious contraptionwasthesecondbestmiraclein in his27-footdoryfishingboat.Accordingtohim,this single-cylinder semi-dieselinternalcombustionengine “Now, whileherheadisheatingup,we givehera A faintsizzlingsoundcamefromsomewhere within Sparks crackledandraineddownonus asUncle “First ofallwegivehersomeelectricbatteryjuice.” This wasthemomentIfirststartedtofeelaper- On eachmovement,Berthagaveabig,deepwheezy “Turning” thehuge200-poundflywheelwasamis- I lookednervouslyuptowardstheopeningto “First weturntheflywheeltoairoutcylinderon Thus followedmyfirsttutorialonhowtogivelife “Let’s putsomelifeintoBigBertha,boy.She A tiny,oil-smearedlightbulbgaveoffjustenough “Good thingyoucame,wereallyneedtobetwoper- Hesitating abit,Ientereddownintotheblackhole “Come ondown,boy!”shoutedmyuncle.“Enterthe I couldseeathinlineofbluesmokeemerging He wasrantingawayaboutsomethingIdidn’t It wasdarkdownthere,verydark.Icouldhear You hadtostepdownintothatuncertain The engineroomonthe My firstencounterwithBigBerthatookplace Big Bertha(theengine)stoodfivefeettalland He hadnamedhisdearlylovedengineBigBertha, I wassoontounderstandwhyhehadthisrelation- My greatuncleHanshada1930modelZWichman A using thedieselcycle(namedafterDr. internal combustionenginewhichoperates ccording toWikipedia,adieselengineisan Rudolph Diesel).

Molar II anddropalinewherethe Molar II was inconven- The Daythe World Went els, causingthe and heavythumpcamefromwithinBertha’s bow- on itsreturnjourney,heshouted Reaching asfarthecompressionwould letitgo the heavywheelshotbackwithconsiderable force. the flywheelhandleasifitwasared-hot pokerand be squirtedintothecylinder.UncleHans letgoof on thefuelpumplever. far asitwouldgotostarboard,thatIpulled harddown rocking movement,exactlyatthepointwhenitwasas the buttononthatfirstnucleardevice. dered howMr.Oppenheimerfeltjustbeforehepressed the brasslever. I say started rockingtheheavywheelbackandforth.“When handle onthesideofflywheel,pulleditoutand adjusted tothedarkness,hefoundspring-loaded through asmoke-filledengineroom.Asoureyes a cloudofrancidbluesmoke. ly screwedintothehead,leavingbehinddarknessand the brassfitting.“Now.Lightfirework,quick!” stuck somethinglookinglikeastickofdynamiteonto piece ofhis“miraclemodernengineering”. the fittingwasonlyshinypartonentirerusty heater plug.Apartfromahighlypolishedbrasslever, while screwingoutapolishedbrassfittingnexttothe with thesweet, nauseating The wheelhousewas filled This actioncausedasingleshotofdiesel fuelto At thatmoment,forsomestrangereason,Iwon- “Now comesthemomentoftruth,”heexclaimed The blindingblueandwhiteflamingstickwasquick- “Get thematches,boy,”myunclerequestedashe “ Now! shouted my uncle. “Enter of bluesmoke emerging smell ofdieseloilmixed “Come ondown, boy!” ‘I couldseeathinline now, through the opening. the gateway tohell.” ” Itwaswhentheflywheelonitsthird burnt gunpowder. pull downthatlever,”henoddedtowards with awhiffof by PedroelReperador Molar II toshudderviolently.My now again! A loud on contrarymechanicswithmyUncleHans. of agenius;Ididn’tmentionmyrevolutionary training amazing skillsandengineeringknowledge. wheel afterhavingtoomanypetitpunches. where upislandwhohadreplacedabrokentiming regulator, performedbyaFrenchmechanicsome- towards Venezuela! Denmark,” heanswered,thinkingIwashavinghimon. the ownerwhichwayengineturned. diesel hadnooilpressure. owner ofaDanishyacht.Hislittlesingle-cylinderBukh compressor incident,Igotacallforhelpfromthe up would blowair that whenBigBertharanthewrongway,oilpump Series incricket.Icursedmyselfforforgettingthefact trical appliancesranbackwardsduetotheWorld Indies winningacricketmatch. tracted andgotthewiringmixedupduetoWest on thethree-phasepowerline.Theyhadbeendis- confirmed thattheirworkershadbeendoingrepairs do withelectricity. anything wrongwiththeair.It these twopiecesofsimilarequipmenthaveincommon? some tanksfromhiscompetitor. owner ofthediveshopnextdoorcalledintoborrow bleshooting, wewerejustabouttogiveupwhenthe us findinganythingwrong.Afterawholedayoftrou- disassembled andreassembledadozentimeswithout taken totallyapart.Theoilpressurepumphadbeen as widetheCheshireCat’s. give hermore,she’llrunwild,”heshoutedwithasmile minute. Thump.Thump…….. slowly laboringawayatasteady60revolutions by itselfeachtimethepistonreacheditssummit. the brassfuelpumphandlenowmovedupanddown full revolution. speed, fastenoughforittobarelyturnoverintoa spine. Theflywheelflewbackagainwithgathered heart wasracingandIfeltterrorcreepingupmy end ofeverything.” it shouldandBerthawillseizeupthatbethe backwards isbadnews,reallynews.” early onthefuelpump,she’llrunbackwards.Running BACKWARDS I lefthimwiththeimpressionthatwas somewhat It tookonlyafewminutestoadjusttheengine’stiming. The ownerwasbaffledandveryimpressedwithmy It wasallduetoafaultyadjustmentonthetiming Lo andbehold!Sheranbackwards,anticlockwise “Start herup,”Isaidwithanairofconfidence. “Clockwise whenlookingaft,clockwisetowards I tookaquicklookatthetinyredwonderandasked By anotherstrangecoincidence,onlyaweekafterthe It wasthedaymostofisland’sthree-phaseelec- A quickcalltothelocal“electric-city”headquarters The airwasthesameforboth,andtherecouldn’tbe Air andelectricity. What acoincidence!Ourfirstthoughtwas;whatdid No oilpressure! There wasaproblemwithhiscompressor. The desperateownerandIhadthecompressor “Not morethantwopumpsonthehandle,boy.Ifyou Big Berthawasrunningagain,happytobealiveand As ifforsomemagicalandadvancedtechnicalreason, It wasasifhedescribingtheendofuniverse. “The badnewsisthattheoil-pumpwillnotworkas The smilelefthisfaceandhegavemeaseriouslook. tolubricatetheworks. up outside the dive shop to go scuba diving. up outsidethediveshoptogoscubadiving. not operationalandeagercustomerswerelining compressor’s movingparts.Themachinewas to toasters. of requestsforhelp,oneverythingfromengines island’s solemechanic,Iwasusedtoallsorts was notfunctioningasitshould.Beingthe trically drivencompressorforfillingdivetanks one oftheisland’smanydive-shops.Theirelec- whole worldseemedtoruninreverse. go backwards.Rightuptothedaythat about theissueofBerthahavingabilityto first encounterwithBigBertha. on amoderndieselengine—Iwouldrecallmy then —everytimeIturnedtheignitionswitch mic metallicthumping. ing pipefunnelandenjoyingherslowrhyth- perfect whiteringsofsmokeouthertower- of thewheelhousewatchingBigBerthablow didn’t matter.Iwasquitecontenttolieontop day. Ihookednothingelsebutseaweed.It hollow thumping. rhythm slowlyadaptingtoBigBertha’ssteady, moving upanddownonitsown,myheart’s staring attheautomaticbrasspumphandle There was no oil pressure to lubricate all of the There wasnooilpressuretolubricateallofthe It wasthedayIreceivedafranticcallfrom On theotherhand;Ihadcompletelyforgotten All thishappenedalongtimeago,andsince Uncle Hansmadehisusualbigcatchthat My feelingofterrorleftmeasIsatinwonder into thereservoirinsteadofsuckingit

“If you’retoolateor had tobesomething JULY 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 27 JULY 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 28 World and readfromastackofHooper’sold I typedpastone,andthentookabreak,layinbed, that Iworkedlate,andlookedforwardtosleepingin. knock. Itwastheonlynightofmyfiveweeksashore writer. Iwaswired,driventofinishbeforeamidnight World layinthebalanceundermyfingersattype- I hadimportantworktodo.ThefutureoftheThird about asexcitingwatchingahaircut.Ididn’tcare; ties. Saturdaynightintheoff-seasonGrenadawas dren, Iwasaloneanddeliciouslyfreeofresponsibili- that weekend.Abandonedbywife,friends,andchil- I’d muddlethrough. thin. Whatifalateseasonhurricanehit?Itoldmyself look after,Iworriedthatmightbestretchingmyself returned. Withtwokids,ahouse,andboatsto I’d agreedtowatchhisboatforhimuntilHooper depressed attheprospectofthreeweeksonmyown. Lancer hewasphilosophical;Itheonewho When IdrovehimtoPearlsAirportinHooper’sred currently losingalong-termloverandsellinghisboat. irrepressible humorandeasy-goingwisdom,hewas having loggedthousandsofdeliverymiles.Aman weren’t flowing.VincentClearywasanoldseadog, friend, Vinny,totiltbeerswithwhenthewords my firstbookingsmademefeellikearichman. my charterseasonwouldstart,andthedepositsfrom muse faltered.Ifelthaditmade.Inanothermonth nightly solitudewithacolorTVandVCRincasemy bedroom overlookingtheharbor,andfiveweeksof Carib beer,amaidtocooklunchanddinner,breezy return, Ihadaspacetowork,refrigeratorfullof got toschoolinthemorningandatetheirmeals.In son anddaughter,aged11nine,makingsurethey England, andIhadvolunteeredtolookafterHooper’s the Hooperswerecoincidentallyvisitingrelativesin at thetypewriter(Ineversoldarticle).Mywifeand monitoring thetropicalweatherforecasts,ormisspent days wastedattheyard’ssnackbar,playingchess, corpus hadbeensuspendedforenemiesofthestate. journalists inprison,heldwithoutcharge.Habeas confiscation ofmymanuscript,orworse.Therewere in fearofrevolutionaryjustice—themidnightknock, tions onthepress.Itwasaheadytime,andIworked record onhumanrights,especiallyhisharshrestric- sigent USpolicy.NeartheendIcriticizedBishop’s left-wing elementswithinhisownpartyandanintran- was beingpushedintoananti-Americanpostureby introduced manyprogressivereforms,Iwrote,buthe the futureofsocialisminThirdWorld.Bishophad in thecountry.ThearticleequatedGrenada’sfatewith US invasion,andtherewasanundercurrentofunrest Government. ItwasOctoberof1982,ayearbeforethe Eric GairywithMauriceBishop’sPeople’sRevolutionary contrasting theregimeofformerPrimeMinisterSir weeks, whereIwasworkingonalongmagazinearticle adjoining theSpiceIslandboatyard,forovertwo the unpredictable. in theWestIndies,whilelanguid,waspunctuatedby laughing, talking,drinking,andrediscoveringthatlife the fourofushadspentmanyhoursontheirveranda, Vincentian wife;hiswifeShirleywasGrenadian,and Charters, AlanHooper,hadintroducedmetomy boatyard atPricklyBay.ThemanagerofSpiceIsland friends ashore,andIknewalltheregularsaround based inSt.Vincent,I’dvisitedGrenadaoften,made for overfiveyearsthenightshewasstolen.Though military regime.Despitetheoften-sensational press the WestIndies;burglarieshaddropped underthe I reassuredmyself.Grenadawasthesafest islandin being broken?Myimaginationwasworking overtime, hear, buttherewasnothingmore.Were from theharbor. the lastthingIexpectedwasasingleloud rapcoming My youngchargeswerevisitingtheirgrandparents For thosefirsttwoweeksIhadalsoagood In starkcontrast,mylifewasasuccessionofbeery I hadbeenstayinginAlanandShirley’shouse, I hadbeenlivingaboard The reportstartledmeandIsatup, straining to Part One:InWhichMyBoatisStolen magazines. At1:45 LIVING DREAD NIGHT OFTHE AM Apogee Sunday,October10th, , my41-footsloop, Sail Apogee’s and by RobertBerlinghof Cruising locks sure itwas not compute.Asdarkasitwas,Iwasn’t absolutely hending, butresistedtheimpulsetoshout. Itjustdid watched hersailfor20or30seconds, notcompre- about 20yardsdownwindof looked likeamainsailbeingraised—no,itwasup the light.Iwaitedforsometimebeforesawwhat ing, soIslippedbackintothebedroomtoswitchoff pened sometimeswhenthewinddiedonarisingtide. Perhaps theboatwasjustswingingoddly.Thathap- wrong, though—areflectionwouldn’tflicker,wouldit? believe astrangerwasonboard.Somethingelse have beenareflection,Isurmised,notwantingto on deck?Itwasoffinasecond,nevertoreturn.could What wasgoingon?WasthatadimflashlightIjustsaw had seenareflectiononothernights.Whynottonight? my pulsefromnaggingme—somethingwasamiss.I or hull.Ialmostwentbacktobed,butcouldn’tkeep not evenaglintofreflectionfrom a hintofbreeze.Therewasnomoonlight,starlight, was dense,andathickscreenofcloudsshutoffallbut screen doorandsteppedontothebalcony.Thenightair caused aconstrictioninmychestasIslidbackthe ing things.Myheartbeathammeredatmythroatand where, barringahurricane. mooring andIwasconfidentshewasn’tgoingany- cyon days.HooperandIhadbeefeduptheboat’s could havelobbedafootballontoherdecksinmyhal- balcony. Withthehouseperchedona20-footcliff,I back tomyreading. was highlyunlikelyforanyonetobeonboard.Iwent had neverbeenboardedordisturbedinfiveyears.It reports ofCaribbeandrugs,theft,andpiracy,myboat even occurtomecallthem.Isatand thoughtfor than tohopethelocalpolicecouldhelp —itdidn’t After all,whatcouldIdo?wasaloneand knewbetter bewildered, confusionturningtodespair. was 90-percentsure,andIdithered,distraught and CARIBBEAN MARITIMEHISTORY I staredintotheblacknessandsawheardnoth- A secondsharprapgotmeoutofbed.Iwasn’thear- Apogee At firstIstoicallyacceptedthathadlost myboat. his 41-footsloop, In the1980s,authorwasahappy-go-luckyyoungCaribbeancharterskipper — untilonenight was moored70yardsfrommysecondstory Apogee , Itoldmyself.Thenconcluded Apogee , disappeared Apogee’s Apogee’s mooring.I white decks whitedecks until allhopewasextinguished. after adozenfranticpulls.ThenIdrovefor60yards mare. Iunlockedthedinghyandstartedoutboard was sodarkIfearedI’ddreamtthewholesweatynight- There wasnosignofmyboatathermooring,butit stared intothedarknessunderclifftomyright. but theoldgirlmusthavepickedupsomewind.I like aquartermile. like helltotheboatyard,amere90yards,butitfelt maid’s quarters,togiveherthehousekey.ThenIran went tolookforhelp.IwokePearl,inherseparate two agonizingminutes,rebelledatmyresignation,and you say?” called theirnames. men inanemergency.Iknockedontheirhulland help meduetotheunwrittencamaraderieamongsea- anchored nearesttheharbor,andIknewtheywould a fiftyishlive-aboardYugoslavcouple.Theywere been stolen. erboat andafewlightarms. I hadtocatchthemtonight.Whatneeded wasapow- shoulders, leavingmewithnohome, job,nothing. my insurancepolicy.Thecompanycould shrugtheir north coastofTrinidad.Trinidadwasnot coveredon caught, they’dprobablyabandontheboat nearthe miles north. Coast GuardboatwasinCarriacouthat weekend,40 16. Noreply.WelaterfoundoutthattheloneGrenada please calltheGrenadaCoastGuardonVHFchannel nothing. Temporarilyataloss,IaskedMr.Hablto We scannedthehorizonofU-shapedbaybutsaw Apogee I repeatedmyself,thenaskedifhehadasearchlight. Zdravko Hablcameondeckinpajamas.“What “Hello?It’sBob.Myboat’sbeenstolen!” I veeredthedinghysouthandheadedforboatof My mindcameupwiththefollowingscenarios. Ifnot wasnotinsight.I’dexpectedtoseeherpass, —Continued onnextpage Apogee had indeed JULY 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 29 Compass. , a Spice Island 40-foot , a Spice Island Argus . AM To be continued in next month’s First Floyd saw a light flicker ahead to port, but after As we motored into the wind, Liz and Floyd raised As we motored into the wind, mile head start, but we The thieves had a four or five “I t’ink dey gone north to Carriacou,” said Evans. I told him about the lack of sail and engine power, “Not to windward, they won’t make it, and they “They’ve got about an hour’s head start.” “They’ve got about think they’re headed?” “Where do you There’s one or maybe Venezuela. “South. Trinidad bastards!” “Let’s nail the stern of We came to the were no squalls, and the seas were under two metres. I swung the helm over it disappeared. Then I thought I saw it, but no one else did. For the next half hour we all saw the faintest of flickering lights, but no one was absolutely sure it wasn’t phosphorescence from breaking wavetops. the main and Liz then unfurled the jib as we fell off, the main and Liz then unfurled We picked up speed and heading south by southwest. the harbor. With the were soon into open water beyond doing seven knots. Away engine at 2500 rpms, we were of the night fell over from the dock, the utter blackness ocean swells rocked us, us like a cloak. When the first his men all had their safe- I asked Evans to make sure an order and seized ties on their weapons. He barked the hands of a kid playing his son’s 9mm automatic; in a .45. Evans checked the Clint Eastwood it looked like returned it to his son! handgun and to my horror since they wouldn’t be would close that gap by dawn was light, about ten knots. able to motor and the wind 210 and 240 degrees Our course zigzagged between magnetic, between landfalls at Trinidad and Los Testigos, Venezuela. “One ah dem fellows that broke jail come from dey. He de only one know how to sail.” the dirty bottom, but he wasn’t convinced. “I still think they gone north.” wouldn’t risk going past St. George’s.” St. George’s was the capital where the Coast Guard boat was kept. I was adamant, and hoping he wouldn’t order me to turn the boat around. The wind had dropped to between five and ten knots. Visibility was poor but at least there laugh, and she could swap yarns and off-color jokes could swap yarns and laugh, and she anywhere. with any sailor, escaped from four guys who did this other thing. The a woman tonight.” prison and raped sloop. Floyd was bent over the engine, administering bent over the engine, sloop. Floyd was and stepped onto the oil. Betsy said, “She’s all yours,” off the stern lines. I put dock. Evans and his son cast the cast-off bow moor- her in gear and motored around ing. It was 2:45

CHRIS DOYLE ?” Cheechako , was tied to the dock. , was tied to the been stolen. We’re going out to look for her.” Cheechako Apogee’s “What’s going on? Are those police?” “ “You want to use “No, we’ve got a boat. Want to come?” “Hell, yes! I would’ve been pissed if you hadn’t called This disturbing news brought me relief from any news brought me relief This disturbing She was on deck in seconds. “Liz, Wake up!” Above: Prickly Bay a decade later, with lots more boats and way less drama Below: Back in the day, the old Spice Island Boatyard featured a small marine railway just outside the Customs office, and a low-key snack bar where Prickly Bay Marina stands today me.” Liz was a former tennis pro, solidly built, with a mass of snaky, sun-bleached curls on her head. Her skin had suffered from tropical sun, yet she was not unattractive. She had a ripe sense of humor, an easy an American woman. Stolen knives, cash, and a cash, and a woman. Stolen knives, an American ghetto blaster. putting them I may have had about moral qualms over the Prison. As Floyd checked back in Richmond was ready to the Spice Island fleet that only boat in friend whose some more help from a sail, I enlisted yacht, gone!” I is gone! been stolen!” Apogee Apogee’s and told Betsy his AM Apogee’s would have to limp along under main and limp along under main and would have to was going nowhere in a hurry. The thieves in a hurry. The thieves was going nowhere Apogee Continued from previous page Continued from Apogee They’d been looking for these guys all night. Four They’d been looking for these guys all night. Four They were wearing camouflage battle fatigues, except I was sure I’d fallen down a rabbit hole when six men “You can use one of our boats, if you can find one “You can use one of our boats, if you can find one “They said they’d be down in five minutes! Four con- “We could try the police,” I said, thinking they were We sat for a moment and I drank a second glass of We sat for a moment and I drank a second glass of “Betsy, Betsy, wake up, Betsy! “It’s Bob. My boat’s been stolen… Next on my list was Betsy Vickery, assistant man- Nothing. The dog and I were both worn out. At last a “Who shall we call?” she said, settling in a chair. “We could use a powerboat.” “I know,” she said brightly, “Mike Forshaw.” Forshaw I thanked the couple and returned ashore. I would “Floyd!” I tried a different tack, “Come nah, mahn! “Come on in,” she said. “You look like you could use didn’t know that her bottom was a coral reef growing her bottom was a coral didn’t know that been discon- her shaft coupling had baby lobsters, engine use- the gearbox, rendering the nected from jib, essential large Number Two genoa less, and the yard lock- was safely stored in Vinny’s for light wind, er. — men, all late teens, early 20s. Broke out of prison, men, all late teens, early 20s. Broke out of prison, had stolen a car to get to Prickly Bay. Broken into a med student’s house and three of them had raped for the overweight leader in street clothes, who introduced himself as Mr. Evans. Behind Evans was his 15-year-old son, who looked 12. Dressed as a cadet, he brandished a handgun like some badass bandolero in a B western. armed with AK 47s and an assortment of handguns arrived four minutes later. These weren’t normal police; they were militia. Normal police would have taken hours. with fuel,” said Betsy. “I’ll go ask Floyd.” It was hard with fuel,” said Betsy. “I’ll go ask Floyd.” It was hard times for Spice Island Charters, who would soon go out of business. She returned. “Floyd’s gone to get one ready.” victs escaped from Richmond Prison last night,” I told Betsy. This latest news troubled me somewhat. What if these were four cattle-prodded political prisoners on the run? What if they had risked their lives on a chance of freedom? I didn’t care; I still wanted my boat back. probably all asleep but no harm in trying. The response from the local station was astonishing. water — sweat pouring off my neck had saturated water — sweat pouring off my neck had saturated my T-shirt. boat was not available. Strike two. ager to Hooper, who lived on the Spice Island com- pound with her local husband, Floyd. We were pals, she knew everyone on the island, and she’d know what to do, I told myself. Before I could bang on the fence outside her door her dog went berserk, snarling and I sticking its snouty head through the wooden slats. stood in darkness at the end of an alley of lockers and yelled my head off. light went on inside and a woman’s voice said, “Yeah?” She restrained the growling dog. was a surveyor of boats and friend of Hooper, but he didn’t own a boat himself. He suggested we call a man living a quarter mile above the yard who owned the only powerboat in Prickly Bay. The man was annoyed at having been woken at 2:00 telephone someone from the Prickly Bay Customs telephone someone from the Prickly Bay Customs office. There was usually a friendly night watchman sleeping there. I scaled the steps to the Customs shack and pounded on the door. No answer. Need some help here!” a drink!” I had a glass of water while she poured herself a long rum and water. Betsy, wake up!! This is Bob, This went on for at least five minutes. Betsy was a either a very heavy sleeper, or… well, she did like a drink or three. felt like weeping. working jib. JULY 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 30 sailing alongsmoothly. course, andalongwithingenuityshould keepyou ter peggedonFair.Verbalskillsare agood be broadreachingthroughparadisewith barome- seas duringthefirsttwoweeksbutafter thatyou’ll upwind work,soenjoythegoodtimenow. tion whileitlasts.Nextmonthcouldbringmore beam, howevertemporarily,soenjoythisstimula- Sometimes it’sbesttogosolo! attempt todowithotherswillcomenaught. in oppositiontoyoursignandanythingyou your senseofhumorandcommunicationsareall sail andavoidpeoplealtogether.Love,creativity, enough tochangethetide. reprieve aroundthe24th,buttheywillnotbe your lovelife.Theremaybeacoupleofdays’ the 19thandbeveryhelpful. aspirations. Afemalewillenteryoursphereafter of greatassistancewithyourbusinessorfinancial the 26th,whenromancesubsides. ativity andcommunications.Thiswillchangeafter weeks todistractyoufromcloudyweatherincre- the hookandtakeabreaktorecover. you havenotmadeanyheadwaybythe19th,drop gybing tohuntforsomebreezepushitalong.If sail intoport. Clear thedeckstobepreparedforgoodthings and theywillbringfunlaughterwithfriends. over thehorizon. most ofthistimeanditwillpayoffhandsomely romance offyoursternafterthe19th.Make cations andbusinessthere’sevensome and positiveattitude. spent alonewillhelpre-poweryourenthusiasm and willbejustzephyrsbythethirdweek.Time from financialworries. become interestinginAugustandwilldistractyou on thehookandwaititoutfornow.Lifewill make somewayinthatareawillstall.Justhang tain afirmhandonthehelm. sure chestcouldslideoverboardifyoucan’tmain- perhaps evenuseofthecato’ninetails.Yourtrea- piratical, withmisunderstandings,argumentsand Your lovelifewilldrivethroughsome choppy Romance ispickingupanewbreezeabaftthe This maybeagoodtimetogoonsingle-handed It willbeamonthofconstantcoursechangesin Creativity andcommunicationsonboardwillbe Enjoy romantictemptationsforthefirstthree Your romanticcoursewillbeoneofendless There arefresheningbreezescomingyourway Fair windsfillthesailsofcreativity,communi- The galesofpassionareblowingthemselvesout Boat businessisinironsandallattemptsto Attitudes onthehomefrontwillbedownright SAGITTARIUS(23Nov-21Dec) CAPRICORN(22Dec-20Jan) JULY 2014 CANCER AQUARIUS (21Jan-19Feb) SCORPIO(24Oct-22Nov) TAURUS(21Apr-21May) GEMINI(22May-21Jun) VIRGO(24Aug-23Sep) PISCES (20Feb-20Mar) LIBRA(24Sep-23Oct) ARIES(21Mar-20Apr) LEO (24Jul-23Aug) (22Jun-23Jul)

KEN DYER

UNSHIPPED OARLOCKS — Richard Dey

before theheatofday. he went tobedgetupearly, would makebossoars, and planedsanded whose limbsoncecutlassed and remembering atree inthebush he puttheminhispocket, a bronze pairbetterthantholepins, gleaming faintlyinthenightair, and afterpuzzlingover them and sawtheoarlocksunshipped, in thevale, cameupontheskiff But aboy, escapedfrom hishouse his shadowghostingravines. and heavyupthehillside, or followed him,hisfootstepsslow No onesawtheoldsaltgo that hadnospringleftintheirlooms. stooped, shoulderingtheoars to apalmtree, andwalkedinland, up onthebeach,itspaintertied rising, helefttheskiffpulled At hightide, withthenewmoon

P Poets

Island I Island

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JULY 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 31

10 11 (full moon) 0000 12 0014 13 0111 14 0206 15 0259 16 0352 17 0443 18 0534 19 0625 20 0715 21 0804 22 0852 23 0937 24 1025 25 1109 26 1153 27 1235 28 1318 29 1401 30 1446 31 1621 1532 is a Clean Wake Project is a Clean Wake 21 22 0738 23 0828 24 0918 25 1007 26 1055 27 1142 28 1227 29 1311 30 1354 31 1519 1436 August 2014 1 2 3 1607 4 1647 5 1734 6 1825 7 1918 8 2015 9 2114 2215 2315 JULY - AUGUST 2014 OF THE MOON Designed to benefit fishermenDesigned in Haiti, For more information contact Frank Virgintino For more information Frank Virgintino contact Catherine Hebson at [email protected]. MERIDIAN PASSAGE MERIDIAN PASSAGE in a joint venture with Free Cruising Guides. in a joint venture at [email protected] or SSCA board member at [email protected] or SSCA board of the Seven Seas Cruising Association (SSCA)of the Seven Seas Donations of used sails and fishing equipment can be Donations of used sails of Free Cruising Guides, developer Frank Virgintino, YOUR USED SAILS WANTED! USED SAILS YOUR SECOND LIFE SAILS July 2014 DATE TIME 1 2 3 1512 4 1555 5 1638 6 1721 7 1805 8 1852 9 1942 10 2035 11 2132 2232 12 2334 13 (full moon) 0000 14 0035 15 0134 16 0231 17 0325 18 0417 19 0508 20 0559 0649 Crossing the channels between Caribbean islands with a favorable tide will Crossing the channels between Caribbean islands with Water, Don explains, generally tries to run toward the moon. The tide starts Note: the maximum tide is 3 or 4 days after the new and full moons. For more information, see “Tides and Currents” on the back of all Imray Iolaire sent to either Minneford Marina at 150 City Island sent to either Minneford Bronx, NY 10464 (www.minnefordmarina.com) Ave., in Boca Chica, Dominican or to Marina ZarPar School and first-aid Republic (www.marinazarpar.com). A receipt for your donation supplies are also welcome. will be given upon request. Februarywill take all donated items to Haiti during 2015 and distribute them to fishermen in a number of communities. make your passage faster and more comfortable. The table below, courtesy Don Street, author of Street’s Guides and compiler of Imray-Iolaire charts, which shows the time of the meridian passage (or zenith) of the moon for this AND next month, will help you calculate the tides. running to the east soon after moonrise, continues to run east until about an hour after the moon reaches its zenith (see TIME below) and then runs westward. From just after the moon’s setting to just after its nadir, the tide runs eastward; and from just after its nadir to soon after its rising, the tide runs westward; i.e. the tide floods from west to east. Times given are local. charts. Fair tides!

and jumbies in the tamarind tree; Miss O’Brien , by Jean Buffong. Interlink Books, First Emerging , by Jean Buffong. Interlink is Grenada-born writer Jean Buffong’s first full-length is Grenada-born writer Jean lougarou Grenadian Girlhood Grenadian This book is available at amazon.com. As Flora’s thoughts meander through the past and present, Buffong immerses the “Years I haven’t heard anything about my father. Years since Mammy went to that Not to be excluded are the happenings in Flora’s family life. “Since I had about 2 Plaiting her way through village life, Flora tells about her friendship with Sheila, Cousin Ann, me, Cynthia and Devon were at cousin Lisa’s grave. While we lighted The grandmother’s eruption in church “was the funniest thing I heard since Aunt The grandmother’s eruption in church “was the funniest With this event Flora begins her reminiscing, one thought leading to another, and With this event Flora begins her reminiscing, one thought During the wedding ceremony of two young teachers from the school that Flora, of two young teachers from the school that Flora, During the wedding ceremony Under the Silk Cotton Tree Under the Silk Cotton Tree to follow. Rather, events are related as one long mono- There is no plot or story line her story, beginning with a church wedding ceremony Buffong goes full circle with reader in a Grenadian girlhood before returning to the wedding reception with which she concludes the book: “[it] was fête for so.” place for a little while. A few months after she came back she had Janice. Since then Janice died,” a death which Flora recalls in detail, one that’s painful for her to come to terms with. and my brother Christopher 3 1/2 my father went to St. Croix. Mammy said at the time he said he only gone for three years to raise a few dollars to come back and look after his family... her best friend; school days; teacher Bennett and teacher Marion’s courtship. We learn of strange neighbours and stranger happenings, of the mermaid on the rock; all those who running their mouths in other people’s business; all who doing nasti- ness — obeah; stories of who liked to speak to God: “She was wearing a long black dress and a nylon black headtie. She had her arms over her head, her eyes staring straight up to the sky as if she talking to God, or perhaps asking Him to put curse on somebody.” candles, cousin Ann was praying and we answering as we went on. After a while we heard a scary noise, like whiish, shuishy, ghostly coming from the middle of the cemetery… We used to think was old time story, but when we heard that ghostly ghosty noise… all of a sudden Cynthia bawled out, “Ah you oye look, look down dey. Look look.” Our eyes were glued to this thing in the middle of the cemetery. This big ball of fire was hopping from grave to grave and dancing. One minute it was on one grave, the next it sort of rolled in the air on to another. All the while making that strange, ghosty noise as if calling and not calling. Cousin Ann was pretending she brave, but after a few minutes she was really mixing up the “Our Father” and “The Lord is my Shepherd.” Me, I was peeing myself. Sar died and Tanty Mildred hollowed out when she realized that her sister dead”. Sar died and Tanty Mildred hollowed out when she death play an important part Funerals and the nine-day prayers that follow after a Night, the night when people of Caribbean life, even more so for villagers. All Saints on by placing flowers, lighting honour the memory of their relatives who have passed and meaningful to West candles and praying at their gravesites is also as important Indians of every background and ethnicity. Buffong relates one such night giving the telling a humorous twist: another, giving readers an inside view of what village life is like in Grenada. another, giving readers an inside view of what village the book’s young narrator, attends, there was an outburst from the bride’s grand- the book’s young narrator, “I now pronounce you man and…” He didn’t finish. mother just as the priest says, way broke out in the church. “Lawd have mercy Am “O Gawd, Lawd have mercy” O Gawd.” bacay oye me belly me belly logue. Nevertheless, Buffong’s interesting style works and provides pleasurable reading.logue. Nevertheless, Buffong’s reception. She has some beautiful lines running and ending with the wedding slim book (just 138 pages), which are replete with through the delightful, rather neighbours, and strange goings-on. anecdotes of family and friends, Voices edition, ©1993. Paperback, 138 pages. ISBN 1-56656-122-1 Voices edition, ©1993. Paperback, Creole from a young girl’s perspective. In it, she has com- novel, written in Grenadian life in Grenada with the peculiarities of the villagers.bined the simplicity of village BOOK REVIEW BY J. WYNNER BOOK REVIEW a from Scenes JULY 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 32

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FREE US$8.95 Caribbean Compass Marina Cruising Life 3 volumes Zar-Par . now rent generationofoffshoresailors. has beenthoroughlyrevisedtomeettherequirementsandexpectationsofcur- offshore navigationhasundergoneanumberofmajorchanges,andthisnewedition the planet. winds, currents,weather,andmuchmoreforplanningavoyagealmostanywhereon selling nauticalpublicationsintheworld.Itprovidesbasicessentialinformationon journeys safeandsuccessful. what cruisingisallabout.AuthorJimmyCornellaimstohelpyoumakeyoursea 9780957262645. US$53.95 Jimmy Cornell,7thEdition.©2014,CornellSailing.FlexCover,616pages,ISBN-13: BOOK REVIEW end of2014. www.paracay.com. Theforeigneditions(French andGerman)willbeavailableatthe oceans oftheworldincludingthreecircumnavigations. organizer andsuccessfulauthor,Jimmy Cornellhassailed200,000milesinall in whichhewillsailonhisnewyacht, Odyssey, aglobaleventaimedatraising awarenessoftheeffectsclimatechange, sailors havingparticipatedinhissailing events.HislatestprojectistheBluePlanet the-world ralliesandoneround-the-world race,withover3,000yachtsand15,000 and noonsite.com.Since1986hehasorganized20transatlanticrallies,fiveround- invaluable aidinplanningmanysuccessfuljourneysfrombeginningtoend. Caribbean. Andiflong-rangecruisingisyourgoal, for you.Therearesome60pagesdevotedtoroutingto,fromandwithin the trated byamapofthatparticularregiontheworld,showingrelevantroutes. vant passageingeneralandthefactorsaffectingit.Eachgroupofroutesisillus- apart insidebarshighlightedyellow.Theaccompanyingtextdescribestherele- time tobethere,listsofcharts,cruisingguidesandwaypoints,etcetera—are set bottom ofthepage.Withineachsection,essentialfactsaboutroute—best its morethan600pages,eachsectioniscolor-codedwithstripesalongthetop and (C-Planner) willbelaunchedtocoincidewiththepublicationofthisedition.” towards achievingtheiraim.Toeasethattask,arouteplanningapplication those whoareplanningafuturevoyage,bothasinspirationandpracticalhelp way sincethisbookfirstsawthelightofday,andIhopethateditionwillserve taken alongsomeofthemostcommonlysailedroutes. depicting asummaryofwindconditionsforthemonthwhenpassagesareunder- the individualwindrosesforthatmonthextractedfromrelevantpilotchart— redesigned toprovideessentialpassageplanningdetails. finish. Indirectresponsetocurrentnavigationalmethods,mostrouteshavebeen route islisted,enablingthenavigatortoplotacourseforanypassagefromstart listed mainlyforplanningpurposes,inthisneweditioneverywaypointalongeach cruising destinations.Comparedtopreviouseditions,wherethewaypointswere well-traveled routes,aswelltheinclusionofalternativeroutesleadingtopopular electronic chartsinnavigation,istheadditionofdetailedwaypointsonsome avoid arrivinginacriticalareatoosoontheseason,orleavinglate.” seasons beinglessclearlydefinedthaninthepast.Asaresult,itisnowadvisableto says, “Theneweditiontakesintoaccountsuchconsequencesasthetropicalstorm route-planning tactics,manyofwhicharenolongervalid.Forexample,theauthor contained inthelatestpilotchartsrequiredarethinkingofsomeoldestablished changes thathaveoccurredintheglobalweathersystemsoveryears.Information charts foralloceansoftheworld.Examinationthisdatahighlightedsomeessential Ocean Atlas decades bymeteorologicalsatellites.Thisdataresultedinthepublicationof change onglobalweatherandtheavailabilityofdatagatheredoverlasttwo GETTING THERE When abookreachesitsseventhedition,youknowit’sofvalue.Butsince1987, Since itspublicationin1987, Destinations areimportant,sure,butwhat’sbetweenthem—thejourneyis World CruisingRoutes:1000SailingRoutesinAllOceansofthe This bookisavailableinprintorelectronic formfromwww.cornellsailing.comor Jimmy CornellisthefounderofARCtransatlanticrally,WorldCruisingClub If youareplanningvirtuallyanyblue-watervoyage,thereissomethinginthisbook The printeditionhasaflexible,water-resistantcover.Tomakeiteasiertonavigate Moreover, astheauthorwritesinForeword,“Routeplanninghascomealong Another newfeatureaddedtothiseditionisthatofwindgrams—asynthesis Yet anotherimportantchangemadeinthisedition,owingtotheincreaseduseof Some ofthemostimportantchangeshavebeendictatedbyeffectsclimate t itthhbdit tdb b h h t t ti fth , which was produced jointly with Ivan Cornell and contains monthly pilot , whichwasproducedjointlywithIvanCornellandcontainsmonthlypilot World CruisingRoutes Aventura IV World CruisingRoutes . Anaccomplishedsailor,event hasbecomeoneofthebest- t willbean Cornell’s Cornell’s , by JULY 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 33 The Wind That Blows). (cutting up of the carcass) are brutal. (cutting up of , or marinated in the oil rendered from blubber, in the oil rendered from blubber, , or marinated is shown pulled flensing doved Perseverance from cassava root. farine “It’s like we are trapped today, carrying on “It’s like we are trapped today, carrying on The late Michael Adams, a.k.a. Bedee. : Humble harpooner Athneil Ollivierre explains his killing implements designed over Ollivierre explains his killing implements designed over Humble harpooner Athneil whalers on other Bequians is explained by Nolly The cultural impact of the world. We see cruise-ship tenders landing dozens In contrast are shots of today’s Kydd describes how modern life is affecting the com- The late calypsonian Stanley Eustace and Stanley Kydd, The excellent background music is provided by locals Before the fadeout to credits we see a telephoto Nolly Simmons sums up the whalers’ dilem- The double-ender * www.thewindthatblows com This DVD is available at outlets on Bequia, as well as from The film also explores the various ways whale meat and blubber were cooked. whale meat and blubber explores the various ways The film also for up to a year. It can also be corned, i.e. salted and sun-dried for three days. i.e. salted and sun-dried It can also be corned, for up to a year. cod liver oil, for also be consumed, like wasted. The whale oil can Nothing was are also sources, now largely nonexistent, Other traditional food medicinal purposes. and the beehive to extract the honeycomb, young men smoking a wild shown: we see making of lance, and darting gun (“bomb gun”) — all obtained a century ago — harpoon, hand he describes how he becomes “a lion” during the hunt. from the United States, and out of the whaling boats. When we were kids, we used Simmons, “The heroes came and ‘Claree’ and ‘Massa’ — just the names of the har- to nickname ourselves ‘Joey’ see cut sticks, and make a bank and fire the sticks to pooners — and we used to the point of the whale, and I think we were only about how close we could come to eight years old then.” a the model whaleboats being made for them, of camera-toting pale northerners, defunct) lights of Bequia’s JF Mitchell airport, a water plane landing under the (now the nearly sinking a small seineboat with its wake, and taxi with two tourists aboard gar- with his wife Jan, being served piña coladas filmmaker himself, Tom Weston, told that the whaler’s life is endangered, perhaps more nished with hibiscus. We are financial rewards are not keeping up with those of other than his prey, because its is also corrupting traditional island values in its all-out activities. But modern life pursuit of the almighty dollar. help me to restore the munity, singing poignantly as his voice cracks, “Somebody The morality that was once morality/ Somebody help me bring back the morality/ that was once in our country.” in our country… for the children’s sake/ The morality front of a local chattel house, In the background we see sheep grazing a hillside in the beach, frolicking in the and kids rolling hoops with a stick, playing cricket on water, and sailing coconut boats and gumboats. J Gool and de Real Ting String Band, Eldon Hazell, Colin Peters, and Mystik Vibration, as well as some original blues guitar and keyboard music which blends harmoniously with the stunning, sumptuous local beauty. There is also a fabulous if scratchy rendition of “My Bonnie” rendered on violin by the late Bertram Wallace, at age 84, which accompanies unforgettable sailing scenes. shot of a green flash and are treated to a whaler’s simple and humble philosophy: “Well, the most important thing is to… just live up with life as it come. I not rushing anything, I just stay cool. Whatever come, come, and what didn’t come, it ain’t come. I quite satisfied that way.”* ma this tradition too long. But who decides when you stop? It should only be who decided when you started.” Weston for his perseverance up a concrete ramp on wooden rollers. Kudos to Tom this fine film, a window into over the two and a half decades it took him to produce pride, and identity. the past and an eloquent statement of Bequia culture, /#!watch/c1c5h and vimeo.com/ondemand (search: Before refrigeration it would be Before refrigeration day whaling season are spent waiting for a sighting. A drought of four years with no a sighting. A drought of four are spent waiting for day whaling season jumping out of shots of Athneil Ollivierre was ended in 1992, and the whale caught breathtaking as the killing lance are as onto a whale’s back to deliver the whaleboat and gory those of the ritualistic (fish and vegetable soup boileen . The courage of these men is Moby-Dick , a 58-minute documentary film, 25 years in the making, by , a 58-minute documentary film, 25 years in the making,

Documentary

Men say they know many things Men say they know many wings.But Lo! They have taken The arts and sciences And a thousand appliances. The wind that blows Is all that anybody knows. — Henry David Thoreau 1845 Bequia Whaling Whaling Bequia We see Father Ron Armstrong (Anglican) in his annual blessing of the whaleboats We see Father Ron Armstrong (Anglican) in his annual It is wonderful to see so many great island personages speak from beyond the It is wonderful to see so many great island personages Whaling on Bequia commenced in 1875 after William T. Wallace, who had crewed Whaling on Bequia commenced in 1875 after William As the film opens to the gorgeous scenery of Bequia, this film poses the question As the film opens to the gorgeous scenery of Bequia, The Wind That Blows with dumplings), napping while listening to a cricket match on a transistor radio, with dumplings), napping while listening to a cricket The average whalers’ catch waiting for a sighting, and returning home empty-handed. so many days in the 100- has been approximately one a year over the last 30 years, before a small group of respectful locals, and Father Pat McDonough (Catholic) pray- before a small group of respectful locals, and Father Pat also see a whaler’s typical day: ing in church for the whalers to have a good catch. We sailing to Mustique, cooking and eating a barracuda grave. Chief whaler/harpooner Athneil Ollivierre, Moonhole developer Tom Johnston, grave. Chief whaler/harpooner Athneil Ollivierre, Moonhole Norman Bradshaw, whalerman Bertram Wallace, Father Ron Armstrong, yachtsman articulating various aspects of and builder/restaurateur Mac Simmons are featured of life in a modern society. the whaling life and the dilemma of an outdated way Prime Minister Sir James Joining them in this task are the very much alive former Simmons, and teacher/ Mitchell, painter Sam McDowell, builder/historian Nolly Foundation. But the film is environmentalist Herman Belmar of the Bequia Heritage far more than talking heads. on a New England whaler in the 1860s, brought two whaleboats to the island and on a New England whaler in the 1860s, brought two the Yankee whalers did. Over taught the local fishermen to hunt the behemoths as supplement their meager exis- the years, the community depended on whale meat to became a breed of super- tence of farming and fishing, and the whalers themselves island, a source of pride and men, role models for all males, heroes for the entire shot documentary, through dignity. This point is driven home in this beautifully local residents, and interviews conducted over 25 years with the whalers themselves, a handful of knowledgeable expats. undeniable, though nowadays many question the ethics and wisdom of killing hump- undeniable, though nowadays many question the ethics backs in an age of tourism. “As our global society advances, how do we protect a community’s identity?” The “As our global society advances, how do we protect 27- to 28-foot open, double- modern Bequia whalers live on, using the same tools and ended boats as described by Melville in Tom Weston, ©2012, Grenadines Motion Picture Co., on DVD. Tom Weston, ©2012, Grenadines Motion Picture Co., on MOVIE REVIEW BY BOB BERLINGHOF MOVIE REVIEW JULY 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 34 day sky). around theSun.Thatis2,000to19,000timeshullspeedofmysailboat! along atorbitalspeedsfrom12,194(19,624km/h)to53,734mph(86,476 the outerplanetsaremostlystayingintheircurrentconstellationsastheycreep to Mercury’sorbitalspeedof107,700milesperhour(173,326km/h)throughspace, planets areonthemovethroughsomeconstellationsduringthisperiod. Capricornus. LookforVirgoandLibratobesettinginthewesternsky.Theinner concealed bythelightofSun. lations nowbecauseinsixmonthstheywillbepositionedthedaytimeskyand point betweenthesummersolsticeandfallequinox.Takeinconstel- byJimUlik to Mid-August Mid-July The Skyfrom (20,950 to45,430km/h). mated tobe880feet(270meters)acrossandtraveling13,02028,230mph be justsouthofMercuryatdawn. located onedegreefromAldebaran.Threedayslater,thewaningcrescentMoonwill of Taurus,iswatchingyoureverymove.ThereyouwillfindthecrescentMoon look eastward.LookbelowtheSevenSisters(Pleiades)forTaurus.Aldebaran,eye the probetobesentEuropafindsignsoflifeunderitsocean. mission toMarsandparticipateinafutureMartiansettlement.Iamwaitingfor on thetable.Peoplearealsowaitinginlineforachancetobefirstmanned Mars onthisdatein1976.Whatisnextforspaceexploration?Miningasteroids on theMoon.Todayis45thanniversaryofthathistoricwalk. mission came14yearslaterwhenNeilArmstrongbecamethefirstof12mentowalk became thefirstmantodomoonwalk.Sorry,MichaelJackson.NASA’sApollo the abilitytoviewanyshootingstars. to lookatanydarkpatchofsky.TheMoonwillrise0040andnotbeafactorin hours youmaycatchaglimpseofmeteorfromthealpha–Cygnids.Justremember debris onEarthoverthenext30days. your nameonitthistimearound.However,themeteorswilldump3,000tonsof and 30closeapproachesbyasteroids.Donotworry—noneoftheasteroidshave • Allslipswithfingers • Shorepower30,50and100amps • ABYCcertifiedmachanics • 70TonTravelift(30'beam) • Slipsto120’withdepth10’ • HighQualityShelteredMoorings The celestialscoreboardforthisperiod • PlutositsinSagittarius(nightsky). • NeptunefloatsinAquarius(nightsky). • UranusislounginginPisces(upallnight). • SaturnisinLibra(eveningsky). • JupiterismovingfromGeminitoCancer(daysky). • MarsisstationedinVirgo(eveningsky). • VenuspassesfromTaurusthroughGeminithenintoCancer(earlymorningto • MercuryjourneysfromGeminithroughCancertoLeo(earlymorningdaysky). Among therisingconstellationsinnightarePegasus,Aquariusand It seemslikesummerhasjuststarted,butwearealreadyapproachingthemid- In Figure1youcanseethelocationofasteroidApophis.Thisisesti- Whether youarejustgettinguporhomearound0500hours,havea Tuesday, July22nd It wasin1955attheApolloTheaterHarlemthatinsightfultapdancerBillBailey A minormeteorshowerwillpeaktonight.Ifyouhappentobelookingupafter2000 Sunday, July20th Zar-Par Marina Visit: marinazarpar.comemail: [email protected] M a

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Z i

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shows thattherewillbe11meteorshowers &7milesEastofInternationalAirport • 12milesEastofSantoDomingo • DinghyDock • FreeWIFIandInternet • Immigrationofficeinthemarinaforclearance • Showers,Laundry,Restaurant,24hrsecurity THE CARIBBEANSKY:FREESHOWNIGHTLY! —Continued onnextpage Viking 1 69.36.67W 18.25.50N

landedon Compared

FIGURE 2 FIGURE 1 just beforesunset Below: TheproximityofJupiter,Jupiter’smoonsandtheSuninwesternsky a risingVenusandMercury Above: TheMoonandAldebaraninthemorningskyabove JULY 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 35

FIGURE 4 Petite Martinique 16-18 feet of water alongside Suitable for Large Power Yachts Unobstructed dock in calm water Cheapest prices in the Grenadines The best fuel dock in the Grenadines for: Contact: Glenn Clement or Reynold Belmar FUEL • OIL • WATER • ICE Tel/Fax: (473) 443-9110 email: [email protected] Easily approached from Carriacou, Union I., Palm I. & PSV B & C FUELS ENTERPRISE Wednesday, August 13th Wednesday, August year. Typically will be hard to view this Shower peak event The Perseid Meteor In The News material that dust cloud that provided the brother star. The gas and Our Sun has a Standard Time (AST) unless otherwise noted. The *All times are given as Atlantic and cruiser currently based in Grenada. Jim Ulik is a photographer Left: The alignment of Saturn, the Moon, Mars and Spica at dusk Left: The alignment of Saturn, that was made from the same star stuff as our Sun Below: The location of a sun there are about 80 meteors an hour. The best time to find any meteors will be before best time to find any meteors 80 meteors an hour. The there are about all but the very the moonlight will block hours. After that time moonrise at 2059 the Perseids can the shooting stars from from showing. However, brightest meteors situated near the 20th. The main radiant is July 23rd and August be seen between Perseus. which marks the head of star Eta Persei same chemical star. Both Suns have the also formed our brother formed our Sun The is about 15 percent more massive than our Sun. composition. The brother star eye, but can be seen easily with low-power binocu- star is not visible to the unaided star Vega. Other similarities could extend to the forma- lars, not far from the bright the planet orbiting that star is in what is referred to as tions of planets. Maybe one hot, not too cold or not too big, not too small). That “Goldilocks Zone” (not too to support life. planet may have the conditions position in Grenada and may vary by only a few min- times are based on the viewing locations. utes in different Caribbean

FIGURE 3 of bright night sky

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[email protected] 1 (784) 495 0235 VHF 68 BEQUIA MARINA Continued from previous page Continued from Sunday, August 10th The closest approach The Full Moon this August will be the largest of 2014. Sunday, August 3rd alignment From August 1st to August 4th the Moon follows the Monday and Tuesday, July 28th and 29th will only be three percent of The New Moon occurred on July 26th. Tonight there Thursday, July 24th Thursday, July vantage point the daytime sky. From our its summer position in Jupiter has taken Arecibo Observatory in Puerto Rico is one of the facilities collecting data on one of the facilities collecting in Puerto Rico is Arecibo Observatory Electric: 110V 30Amp (perigee) of the Moon occurs at 1744 UT. The Moon will be 221,765 miles (356,896 be 221,765 miles (356,896 (perigee) of the Moon occurs at 1744 UT. The Moon will line with the Sun the gravita- km) from Earth. Because the Moon is closer and in a Perigean Spring Tide with tional pull on the oceans will be greater. This is called low to exception- a Full Moon. Expect a large range in ocean tides (exceptionally ally high) for the next few days. objects. On August 3rd the conjunction is between Saturn, Mars and the Moon as seenobjects. On August 3rd the conjunction is between Saturn, Moon and Mars are positionedin Figure 3. Saturn is in the constellation Libra. The to identify Antares and Spica. between Libra and Virgo. This is also a good opportunity the full moon of September 28th, 2015. the Moon showing and it will set at 1943 hours. This makes for a good opportunity the Moon showing and it will set at 1943 hours. This about this shower is the to view the Capricornid meteor shower. What is notable period. One reason for the number of bright fireballs produced during its activity velocity of these meteors. bright fireballs is the relatively slow 15-miles-per-second the goat fish. They will radiate from the constellation Capricornus, today, it is almost directly behind the Sun. The Sun’s brightness is hiding Jupiter so the Sun. The Sun’s brightness is hiding Jupiter today, it is almost directly behind the your retina. This disclaimer has been included on don’t look for it. You will fry counsel for the Ophthalmologists United Commission recommendation of the legal really exist but don’t say you weren’t warned! on Health (OUCH). They don’t Apophis. This asteroid is predicted to have a close approach to Earth on Friday, April a close approach to Earth asteroid is predicted to have Apophis. This over the mid- of geostationary satellites It will pass inside the orbit 13th of 2029. (29,470 km) be closer than 18,300 miles The approach should not Atlantic Ocean. be on an Easter for Apophis will surface. The next close approach from Earth’s leading up to amount of doomsday posts 13th, 2036. Just imagine the Sunday April Easter Sunday! and then again for an a Friday the 13th — JULY 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 36 JULY 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 37 : The Carenage: Monday - Thursday 8 am to 5:30 pm Friday until 8:45 pm Saturday until 1:00 pm Tel: (473) 440-2588 Grand Anse: Monday - Thursday 9 am to 5:30 pm Friday & Saturday until 7:00 pm Tel: (473) 444-4573 Compass … and much more! Read in Next Why Haiti? Why Now? The Beautiful Blue of the BVI Improving Onboard Ventilation JONAS BROWNE & HUBBARD (G’da.) Ltd. Stock Up on the widest selection and the best prices in Grenada at our two conveniently located supermarkets. Whether it’s canned goods, dairy products, meat, fresh vegetables or fruits, toiletries, household goods, or a fine selection of liquor and wine, The Food Fair has it all and a lot more. Hubbard’s Month’s

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trademark Free Cruising Free Cruising couteau chien’s , http://freecruisinguides.com. Although there are innumerable recipes, Sauce au Although there are innumerable St Vincent & the Grenadines’ Breadfruit & Jacks Roasted Breadfruit and Fried Jackfish is generally Trinidad & Tobago’s Crab & Callaloo Visit Tobago for the scrumptious Crab and Callaloo Trinidad has a significant East Indian population with Frank Virgintino is the author of Trace the roots of Roasted Breadfruit and Fried Grenada’s Oil Down Oil Down is the national dish and a great source of There are many variations on the pronunciation but It is hard to say what the cultural basis of this dish It is hard to say what the cultural Martinique’s Sauce au Chien dishes is Grilled One of this island’s signature is a dog. olive oil, lime juice, green Chien is usually made with peppers and other spices onions, garlic, parsley, hot It is also served with — a sort of Creole vinaigrette. meats and seafood. I have grilled chicken and other had Grilled Snapper with Sauce au Chien more than once and have always loved it. This dish gives local seafood a very continental flair with a strong French imprint. Don’t miss it! agreed to be the national dish of St. Vincent & the Grenadines. This dish is often served with golden apple juice, the national drink. Golden apple, or pomme cythere, is a tropical fruit with a spiny fibrous pit that makes it difficult to eat out of hand, but the juice is delectable. Native to the South Pacific, it was introduced to Jamaica in 1782 and spread throughout the islands. served at beachside establishments. As with most callaloo, this contains dasheen leaves, okra, hot pepper and coconut milk, but the addition of locally caught crab makes it special. extensive culinary offerings. Everywhere you go, you will find roti available. Roti is an Indian flatbread, stuffed with curried vegetables, meat or fish. While roti and its cousin “doubles” (flatbread with curried chick peas) are common street foods, gourmet East Indian cuisine can be sampled at fine restaurants throughout Trinidad. Guides Jackfish to Captain Bligh of mutiny fame, who was Jackfish to Captain Bligh of mutiny fame, who was charged with bringing breadfruit to the Caribbean from the Pacific to create a cheap “filler meal” for the slaves. A Breadfruit Festival is held in St. Vincent every August. pride when people get together in Grenada. Essential to the dish is coconut milk, which is “cooked down” with the other ingredients in a big pot until very little is left. The recipe varies, and can include salted pigtail, pig’s feet (trotters), salt beef and chicken, breadfruit, green bananas, yam, potatoes and dumplings made from flour. Callaloo leaves are sometimes used to retain the steam and give extra flavor. most locals say it as if they are saying, “I’ll dun.” The dish is time consuming and is considered a big feast as well as an art. Drinking and socializing are integral parts of the recipe! The roots of this dish also trace directly back to West Africa. first thought of trying a dish called “crappo” I was put first thought of trying a dish you would never off, but the truth is, blindfolded, know it is not chicken. island and there is, but Dominica is a mountainous it from there and come are many frogs. You can take to your own conclusion! Although Sauce au Snapper with Sauce au Chien. it isn’t made of, by or for Chien means “dog sauce”, of knife commonly used dogs. It’s named after a brand to chop the ingredients; the Ackee and Saltfish (left) is served as a traditional breakfast, while Oil Down is a social event as well as a hearty meal

WIKIPEDIA by Frank Virgintino

(pork loin) is highly prized for the (pork loin) is highly prized for pernil NATIONAL DISHES TELL A STORY TELL DISHES NATIONAL Dominica’s Mountain Chicken The national dish of this island is Mountain Chicken Antigua’s Pepperpot The national dish of Antigua is fungi and pepperpot. On the French side, you’ll find some of the best cui- St. Maarten/St. Maarten’s Conch or Callaloo This island has two national dishes. On the Dutch Ackee and Salt Fish is sometimes served with fried Jamaica’s Ackee & Salt Fish Ackee and Salt Fish is the national dish. Native to The following is a list of some of the more popular You will find as you travel that Cubans, DominicansYou will find as you travel Last month we reviewed the way foods have developedLast month we reviewed the or Crapaud, which is pronounced “crappo”. In fact, Mountain Chicken is frogs’ legs, which are stewed, boiled or fried and served with rice and peas. When I Pepperpot is a thick meat-and-vegetable stew made with yam, okra, eggplant, dasheen leaves (callaloo) and plantains, as well as other ingredients depending on the particular recipe. It is normally served with fungi, a cornmeal mush containing okra. This dish has deep West African roots. sine in the Caribbean at Grand Case, just north of the capital of Marigot. Many agree that their national dish is callaloo soup. Originating in West Africa, the soup’s main ingredient can be either dasheen leaf or ama- ranth, both vegetables similar to spinach. If you have never tasted it, do not be put off by its color. Callaloo is also popular in many other islands of the Lesser Antilles, and varies from one island to another, which allows the cruiser to “taste his way south.” side, the most famous dish is Conch and Dumplings. side, the most famous dish is Conch and Dumplings. The conch — the meat of a large marine gastropod — is pounded and then boiled or pressure-cooked with seasonings. bammy (cassava bread) and fried plantains. This dish has English, African and Taino roots. Whether you like salt fish or not, the dish works well and you will quickly understand why it is a national favorite. Ya, Mon! West Africa and brought to the islands aboard slave West Africa and brought to the islands aboard slave ships, the ackee tree bears a pear-shaped fruit containing arils which, when properly ripened and pre- pared, resemble scrambled eggs. (The unripe fruit is toxic.) The bland ackee is mixed with salt fish that has been soaked to reduce its salt content and seasoned. This dish is served mainly as a breakfast meal. Salt fish, i.e. salted cod from Canada, is another Caribbean staple that was originally imported to feed slaves. dishes in the Caribbean. It is not meant to be all- inclusive; its purpose is to create a frame of reference that can help you enjoy the food as well as better understand the many cultures within the Caribbean. holidays. Meanwhile, those on the French- and theholidays. Meanwhile, those fish, everything from freshEnglish-speaking islands love Salt fish (baccalao) andfish to smoked and salted fish. the list of favorites. They addsmoked herring are high on eaten as a main course.flavor to any dish but are also Dried, salted and smoked fish is eaten throughout the Caribbean because it is relatively inexpensive and can be kept without refrigeration. Beef in the islands is generally tough and often stewed as a result, but prime cuts of beef on the Spanish Main are excellent. (from the Dominican Republic), Puerto Ricans, (from the Dominican Republic), eat chicken with rice-and- Venezuelans and Colombians beans often, and in the Caribbean in relation to their ethnic roots. If youin the Caribbean in relation to your cruising, tastewant to add a flavorful dimension the various stops that youthe different local foods at the components back tomake and see if you can trace can explore the food cul- their origin. One way cruisers and islands is to try theture of the various countries the national dish is an“national dish”. Most often combining of different andexample of the layering or something new. often diverse cuisines that achieves Caribbean Cruising — Gastronomically Cruising Caribbean Part Two: JULY 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 38 com, prizes infourclasses.Thisyear, island. VisitingracersfromTrinidadandGrenadajoinedlocalsailorstocompetefor saw 16boatscompeteinracesheldupanddownthesouthwestcoastsof sailors alike. Optimists andsevenIC24s.TheBVIDinghyChampionshipsisforbothyoungold Maarten, St.CroixandAntigua:atotalof50boatsonthewater,whichincluded33 seas andstunningclearvisibility. Nanny Cay,Tortola.Theconditionswereexcellentwithwindsofsixto12knots,calm rie keptthepartieswellattended. Mootown fortheFridaynightparty.Goodmusicanddrinks,agreatcamarade- Satellite sponsorswerecrucialthisyear,allowingtheorganizerstobringinband ing mainsponsorfortheregatta,alongwithMountGayRumandBanksBeer. for thefuntocontinueonland.ThevenuewasBarbadosYachtClub,acontinu- this class’ssixraces. fought J/24Class,with Oceanis 473, Soverel 43, with allbullets,whileRalphJohnson’sBeneteau, online scoringsystem,whichtiesintotheCSAdatabase.Whatatreatthatwas! NEWS Renata Goodridgereports:TheBarbadosMayRegatta,held15ththrough18th Barbados MayRegatta2014 This regattaistheflagshipeventforYouthSailingDevelopmentProgramme There wasanexcellentturnout,withvisitingsailorsfromStJohn,Thomas,St. The BVIDinghyChampionshipstookplacetheweekendofMay17thand18that Excellent TurnoutforBVIDinghyChampionships For finalresultsvisitwww.sailbarbados.comorwww.regattaguru.com. The windsweregood,andthesailorsplayedwelloutinplayground,allowing Paul Johnson’sBeneteauFirstClassTen, Robbie Yearwood’s REGATTA PaulMiller,cameandtaughttheresultsteamhowtouseregattaguru C-Mos Leonora , tradedsecondsandthirds.InCSA2,DavidSpieler’sBeneteau Die Hard , freshfromaBequiaEasterRegattawin,wasinvincible. Hawk Eye,GloryDaze theguruofracemanagementwebsiteregattaguru. arrivedfromGrenadatotakefirstoverallinahard- Bruggadung 2 and Rapajam Impulse , dominatedCSAClass1

, andNormandeCosta’s allwinningatleastoneof PETER MARSHALL PETER visit www.royalbviyc.org. spectators towatchtheracingandforparticipantsenjoyafterracing. With verycomfortablefurniturelentbyTheMoorings,itmadetheperfectvenuefor generously allowedtheclubtocreatea“DinghyChampsLounge”ontheirdeck. Nicolosi; shewasalsofifthoverall. ond, MateoDiBlasi;andthird,ChristopherSharpless.Highest-placedgirlwasMia of thewinnersVITripleCrownarefromSt.Thomas:first,TeddyNicolosi;sec- Regatta inStThomas.Competitorsmustsailtwoofthethreeeventstobescored.All first eventwastheCruzanOpeninSt.CroixfollowedbyVIODAChampionship Latitude 18 lowed byAndrewWatersandcrewon Women’s Olympics)wasRhoneFindlayfromSt.Maarten Maddox oftheBVI.ThewinnerinLaserRadialClass(forlightersailorsand Thomas. ThewinnerintheLaser4.7Class(forsmallersailorsandjuniors)wasAbby Race BoatsforheavysailorsandMen’sOlympics)wasAndrewBarlasfromSt. great weekendcompleting17racesoverthetwodays. There weresixsailorsinthisclass,fromSt.John,CroixandThomas.Theyhada Nicolosi wasthehighest-placedgirl. Rayne DufffromtheBVIinsecond,andRoccoFalconeAntiguathird.Mia St. Thomas. Thomas, secondtoRoccoFalconefromAntigua,andthirdRobertHunter second toMateoDiBlasifromSt.Thomas,andthirdThadLettsometheBVI. from Antigua. Thomas, secondtoNathanHaycraftfromtheBVI,andthirdMariaEldridge three agecategories. equipment maintenanceandacquisition. the YouthSailingDevelopmentProgrammeinsupportofinstructorwagesand and thechieffundraiserforyear.Themoneyraisedinthiseventgoesentirelyto For moreinformationontheRoyalBVIYachtClubyouthsailingprogram Nanny Cay,agreatsponsoroftheRoyalBVIYachtClubyouthsailingprogram,very The BVIDinghyChampionshipsisalsothethirdleginVITripleCrownSeries. In theIC24Class,ColinRathbunandcrewon Lasers racedinthreecategories.ThewinnertheLaserFullClass(Olympic The OptmistGreenFleetisforchildrenofallageswhoarejustlearningtorace. The overallOptimistwinnerswereTeddyNicolosifromSt.Thomasinfirstplace, In theRedFleet(13to15yearsold),firstplacewentTeddyNicolosifromSt. In theBlueFleet(11and13yearsold),firstplacewenttoRayneDufffromBVI, In theWhiteFleet(tenyearsandunder),firstplacewenttoMiaNicolosifromSt. The OptimistChampionshipfleethad27boatsracing;forawardsitwassplitinto . Foxy Lady Tortola Express andChrisHaycraftcrewon Dinghy Championships conditions forthe2014BVI Tortola’s watersinbeautiful Thirty-three Optimiststookto tookthetopspot,fol- JULY 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 39 RAMSEY, NJ RAMSEY, WHILE OUT AT SEA! .COM .COM REFUELING TENDERS & ATL INC - RAMSEY, NJ USA INC - RAMSEY, ATL EMAIL: [email protected] S ? cannot be matched. Marine Marine THAN Insurance PERSONAL WATER CRAFT My claims settlement record ALSO IDEAL FOR www.street-iolaire.com Parts - Repairs - Service FAX: (473) 444 2899 insurance. You never know how good insurance. You never know how good The insurance business has changed. The insurance business Duty-Free Engines for Yachts insurance, but there is no good cheap insurance, but there is no good cheap Capacities 25 to No longer can brokers talk of low rates. No longer can brokers talk of low Rather, the honest broker can only say, Rather, the honest broker can only your insurance is until you have a claim. your insurance is until you have a There is good insurance, there is cheap There is good insurance, there is Outboard Engines 2HP-250HP “I’ll do my best to minimize your increase!” e-mail: [email protected] PHONE: (473) 444 3944/1555 email: [email protected] I have been connected with the marine insurance I have been connected with TOURS & CRUISES - CAR & JEEP RENTAL Rugged, Reliable, & Safe Standard Gas, Diesel, & In-Stock & TELEPHONE:

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Readers, , Compass ☛ Compass Compass . Jesse had organized a raffle with some great organized a raffle with some . Jesse had to tell our advertisers you saw their ad in Looks like sportfishing season in the Caribbean has Looks like sportfishing season just for fun. Probably It’s all about “fighting” a fish laws against cruelty Don’t these islands have Well, I never thought of it quite that way, but you Yikes. ‘AFTER THE ATLANTIC’ After crossing the Atlantic on the ARC 2013 we However, once the adrenalin had gone we found We were neither the first nor the last, so I would like This site is there to support and help all yachtsmen This site is designed so that any yacht arriving in the Please join up as a member and share this site with WE WANT TO HEAR FROM YOU! Dear SPORTFISHING RANT SPORTFISHING We want to hear from YOU! Be sure to include your name, boat name or shoreside We do not publish individual consumer complaints or Send your letters to [email protected]. rolled around again. Time to burn lots of fossil fuel in rolled around again. Time deep. But no, they aren’t pursuit of the denizens of the they just go out and tor- even catching them for food; hours, and then come back ture some billfish for a few and get prizes for that. As my friend Captain not so much fun for the fish. kind of a day does a John Smith once asked, “What some time on the hook?” fish have after spending a person feel after tor- Come to think of it, how does or her own amusement? menting an animal for his I admit. To me, it’s like Okay, I don’t get sportfishing, — a cruel, archaic and bear-baiting or dog fighting is past. pointless activity whose time to animals? Please sign me, I’d Rather Eat Them Dear I.R.E.T., bring up an interesting point: catch-and-release sports- fishing might actually be illegal in some places. Under the laws of St. Vincent & the Grenadines, for example, hunting and fishing for food is allowed, but the Protection of Animals Act provides for fines or imprison- ment for those who commit “offenses of cruelty”, including anyone who “ill-treats, tortures, infuriates or terri- fies any animal” or “causes any unnecessary suffer- ing”. This law protects not only domestic animals, but also any wild animal “of whatsoever kind or species” (specifically including fish) “which is subjected to any appliance or contrivance for the purpose of hindering or preventing its escape….” Sally Dear arrived in St. Lucia. We spent two years getting ready and planning and had fantastic support from World Cruising Club, the management team of the ARC. ourselves in a new world, with new problems and new cultures. you to join the Facebook group “After The Atlantic” and share it with all your sailing friends so that all of our experiences can benefit others who will be following in our footsteps in the months and years ahead. and women who plan to cross the Atlantic and live the dream. We all plan for the great challenge of crossing the pond to the Caribbean — but what happens when we get there? Caribbean can have access to others’ experience, be it the best electrician in St. Lucia or where to get your tender fixed in Grenada. The information is out there and I hope that you will all feel that your experiences will help others while cruising the Caribbean. fellow adventurers. I hope this site will become a very useful and informative group for everyone. Happy sailing, fair winds and have fun. Ian McLaren-Morris Silver Slipper Fish AND a by various local businesses prizes donated light 60 can- (no, we didn’t attempt to birthday cake the fire risk!). dles owing to Bethany and Bryn Smith Sarah, David, S/Y Cape Dear address, and a way we can contact you (preferably by e-mail) if clarification is required. individual regatta results complaints. (Kudos are okay!) We do not publish anonymous letters; however, your name may be withheld from print at your request. Please keep letters shorter than 600 words. Letters may be edited for length, clarity and fair play. mark the occasion, and we all sang “Happy Birthday” and we all sang “Happy mark the occasion, the its flagship publication, to the OCC and , in which he Compass

' S R E M , , U D A R Compass Compass E O Regarding Captain Pugwash’s letter to the Readers’ Regarding Captain Pugwash’s On April 17th we were delighted to meet — and put LEARN TO SAIL OUT THE ANCHOR LEARN TO SAIL OUT THE HAPPY 60TH BIRTHDAY TO THE FLYING FISH! Learn to sail out the anchor, and to anchor Learn to sail out the anchor, and to anchor For every engineless boat that got in trouble or was For every engineless boat that got in trouble or was Pugwash wrote: “Firstly, I have never been hit by a FFORUM READERS' RREADERS' Roving Rear Commodores Christine and John Lytle receive a commemorative plaque from OCC Port Officer for Trinidad, Jesse James Ocean Cruising Club (OCC) members at The Lure restaurant in Chaguaramas, Trinidad for the celebration of the Club’s 60th Anniversary (1954–2014: http:// www.oceancruisingclub.org). We were joined by OCC Port Officer for Trinidad, Jesse James, and his wife Sharon Rose and daughter Julia Rose. Jesse present- ed John and Christine Lytle (Roving Rear Commodores, Eastern Caribbean) with a commemorative plaque to Forum in the May issue of Forum in the May issue faces to boat names and VHF voices — more than 20 Dear Dear under sail. Don Street Glandore, Ireland lost, I will show you a dozen boats that got in trouble lost, I will show you a dozen boats that got in trouble or were lost because their engine failed and the crew were not good enough sailors to sail themselves out of trouble. boat under sail in umpteen years of sailing and cruising, but have sustained serious damage from a boat under power. Secondly, I know some sailboats use their engines constantly and [their operators] see the sails as very secondary propulsion. No problem with that. What I would respectfully suggest, though, is that being able to set and weigh anchor under sail is an essential skill, as is sailing in and out of an anchorage. A sailor who does not have these skills represents a hazard to his or her fellow yachties, for there may come a time when there is no choice in the matter.” issued a rebuttal to the writer who complained about issued a rebuttal to the writer who complained about other cruisers sailing out their anchors, this well-pre- served old fart who has been in the insurance business for 50 years and spent a half a century sailing the Eastern Caribbean says RIGHT ON! JULY 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 40

Trinidad&TobagoPowerboatAssociation(TTPBA) 31 24 http://grenadagrenadines.com/blog/grenada-a-chocolate-lovers-paradise 18 –25 andatPinney’sBeach,Nevis 15 13 –14 13 10 8 7 GrandKadoomentparadeinBarbados www.abmt.vi 5 –11 4 –6 4 2 –3 1 -3 1 -3 [email protected] 1 (Independence 1 Day) AUGUST [email protected] 30 RoyalBritishVirginIslandsYachtClub,www.royalbviyc.org 28 27 –3Aug 26 –5Aug VirginGorda.BitterEndYachtClub,www.beyc.com 26 24 24 20 16 –1Aug 14 -21 www.katsbvi.com 14 -15 http://yoles-rondes.net 14 13 –19 www.abmt.vi andatPinney’sBeach,Nevis 13 –15 www.barbadoscruisingclub.org 13 VirginIslandsGameFishingClub(VIGFC),www.vigfc.com 12 12 10 VirginIslandsGameFishingClub(VIGFC),[email protected] 9 –11 WestEndYachtClub,[email protected] 7 6 5 –7 5 (Constitution 2 1 1 Day) JULY ulchldyi rnd Eacpto a) PublicholidayinAnguilla(ConstitutionDay) PublicholidayinGrenada(EmancipationDay); CarriacouChildren’sEducationFundAnnualCharity Auction. Publicholidayinmanyplaces(EmancipationDay) andJamaica JulyOpenKid’sTournament,St.Thomas. PublicholidayinVenezuela(IndependenceDay) PublicholidayinCuraçao(FlagDay)andCaymanIslands ArubaHi-WindsKitesurfevent.www.hiwindsaruba.com PublicholidayinAntigua&Barbuda(VereCornwallBirdSr.Day) ai ra ae(oebas rmTiia oTbg. Publicholiday inTrinidad&Tobago(IndependenceDay) CaribGreat Race(powerboats)fromTrinidadtoTobago. ArubaCatamaranRegatta.RegattaFoundation FULLMOONPartiesatTrellisBayandWestEnd,Tortola, CarriacouChildren’sEducationFund PublicholidayinTrinidad&Tobago(EidalFitr) GuyEldridgeMemorialTrophyRace. PublicholidayinVenezuela(SimónBolívar’sBirthday) 31stAnnual“ChristmasEveinJuly”Waterfront&MarinaCelebration, BastilleDay.CelebrationsonFrenchislands;yoleracesinMartinique. BarbadosCruisingClubRegatta.Club, FULLMOONPartiesatTrellisBayandWestEnd,Tortola, BequiaFishermen’sDayCompetition.www.bequiatourism.com PublicholidayintheBahamas(IndependenceDay) 10thAnnualBonaireJazzFestival.www.bonairejazz.com 49thAnnualCarriacouRegatta.www.grenadagrenadines.com PublicholidayinBVI(EmancipationFestival) WindwardFête,St.Barths.SailboatracesatLorient 22ndAnnualFirecracker500&ChiliCook-off,Tortola. USVIMarlinFest,St.Thomas.AtlanticBlueTournament(ABMT), JulyOpenBillfishTournament,St.Thomas. he iitrsCpItrainlYuhRgta otl. CalabashFestival,Montserrat.www.visitmontserrat.com ChiefMinister’sCupInternationalYouthRegatta,Tortola. at thetimethisissueof hclt etvl rnd. ChocolateFestival,Grenada. GrenadaCarnival.www.grenadaactivities.com ReggaeSumfest,MontegoBay,Jamaica.www.reggaesumfest.com Public holidayinColombia(AssumptionofMary) Public holidayinColombia(BattleofBoyacá) Public holidayinColombia(DeclarationofIndependenceDay) BVI OpenBillfishTournament.AtlanticBlueMarlinTournament(ABMT), Public holidayinCARICOMcountries(CARICOMDay) 30thTourdesYolesRondes,Martinique.http://yoles-rondes.net AntiguaCarnival.http://antiguacarnival.com TobagoHeritageFestival.http://tobagoheritagefestival.com so pleasecontacteventorganizersdirectly forconfirmation. All informationwascorrecttothebestofourknowledge If youwouldlikeanauticalortourismevent listedFREE and contactinformationoftheorganizing bodyto in ourmonthlycalendar,pleasesendthe name and date(s)oftheeventname [email protected] CALENDAR Compass went topress—butplanschange,

P with solarcellandinternalstoragebatterybuiltrightintothe76mmcap. opening intoasolarlantern,whilethe300isBPA-freeplasticwaterbottlecomplete practically anywaterbottle.TheLightCap200turnsbottlewitha51mmmouth new LEDproductsthatlooklikebattery-friendlyfun. Ni-Cad batteriesfromovercharging.Ifthe lightisdroppedinthewater,itwillfloat. up toeighthoursonafullchargeofsunlight. Abuilt-incircuitprotectsthereplaceable diameter withatoughnylonclampthatadjusts thelighttoanyangle.Itprovides steel, solar-poweredLEDlightthatclamps ontoanyrailingfrom22mmto32mm drill holes,runwiresorworryaboutdraining batteries.TheRailLightisastainless RailLight fromDavisInstrumentsdelivers illuminationtocockpitswithouthaving powered flashlight. perfect hanginglantern.Thecapcanalsobeusedasasmall,stand-alone,solar- allows userstosuspendthebottleusingincludedlanyard,makingitinto the container forsmall,personalitems.Italsocomeswithabuilt-inretainingringthat tall andweighingjust298grams,theLightCap300canactasawaterproofstorage bottle offersanergonomicgripwithtwoflatsidestopreventrolling.Measuring24cm Holding almost1litre(ofrumpunchforthenextbeachbarbecue,perhaps?), this custom, quick-chargingsolarpanelismoldeddirectlyintothecap. tronics, includingthelightweightNiMHbattery,arefullysealedinsidecap. The the batterycharges.Awaterproofswitchmanuallyturnslightonoroff.Allelec- both featurealightsensor,whichswitchestheoffduringdaylighthourswhile in areflectivelenssystemthatenhancestheirbrightnessanddispersion.Theyalso Davis Instruments’LightCap200and300provideilluminationfrom Solar LanternsfromWaterBottles Boat lightinghascomealongwaysincethedaysofkerosenelamps.Herearethree These aren’t anchor lights, but could have plenty of other uses. The SolLight These aren’tanchorlights,butcould have plentyofotheruses.TheSolLight Clamp-On RailLights For moreinformationcheckyourlocalchandlery orvisitwww.davisnet.com. In additiontofourwhiteLEDs,theLightCap300alsofeaturesasingleredLED. Four whiteLEDsprovidelightforupto15hoursonafullcharge.Theyarehoused A Lookonthe

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JULY 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 41 s r 15 Yea Discover. Dream.

www.caribbeancompass.com Caribbean Compass Compass On-Line • Advertisers’ Directory • Check It Out… Tell Your Friends! Compass On-Line • Advertisers’ Directory • Check It Out… We’re onWeb! the We’re TradeWinds is looking for a is looking for TradeWinds Manager Marketing Please send an introductory email along with your Please send an introductory email along with your [email protected] résumé to: TradeWinds is a successful yacht chartering company with a difference. chartering a successful yacht is TradeWinds a Private charters well as as weekly crewed traditional operate We fully crewed its guests offers an all-Inclusive, Club which Members vacation. week-long but its main the world across in destinations operates TradeWinds looking to now in the Caribbean, and we are activities located are team. join our growing to Manager a Marketing hire for will be responsible you Manager As Marketing attract new online services to in order marketing the Charter division. The goal of our Rental to clients qualityquantity and sufficient generate position is to a experience to attract vacationers leads to of commercial have will need to You charter. TradeWinds results. focus on delivering flair and a ability, creative ethic is essential. work team-focused A pro-active, marketing a multi-channel take to will be expected You and digital media media, social email, across approach building partnerships,SEO, direct PR, advertising mail, and results. and deliver drive all designed to are which events, in the with experience Professional a Marketing are If you join a industry chartering and looking to or yacht leisure business, contact growing successful and exciting us for full details! Explore. - er p

g thin y gg , balancing on scaf- Angelos on a boat. To make ever y uentl q re f uite q by Angelika Grüner ‘Don’t get me wrong. WHAT’S ON MY MIND WHAT’S ou need y I really like to help out, s g and you can’t have all the tools; and you can’t have all the tools; sometimes you depend on others’

My husband and I came up with the following: “You want to borrow my tools? No Then there is another fact to consider: Does the other person even know how to Don’t get me wrong. I really like to help out, and you can’t have all the tools; some- Do you have…? Can I borrow…? This seems to be quite common among today’s In the end, it turned out that the particular greeting-less chap asked to borrow a In the end, it turned out that the particular greeting-less Another guy comes and wants my 220-Volt cable, “Because you are painting and Another guy comes and wants my 220-Volt cable, “Because I couldn’t believe it. Minutes later one of the workmen of the boatyard asks me, I couldn’t believe it. Minutes later one of the workmen Fast forward to summer. I am on the hard, working on Fast forward to summer. I am on the hard, working on he can borrow a drill. I’m up Two days later the same chap comes again, asking if I remember being at a barbecue and talking about boat speed. My husband, and talking about boat speed. My husband, I remember being at a barbecue problem — while you have them, I’ll borrow your spouse, and the same way you treat my tools, I’ll treat them! You still need it?” use the tool; has he or she ever had a power drill, belt sander, or angle grinder in their hand? You never know. times you depend on others. If someone basically well equipped is in need of a tool that I happen to have, I would be the last person not to help out. But I have mostly stopped lending out my tools. Saws and chisels inevitably came back dull; a hammer was returned with a cracked handle. Sometimes tools were not returned and we had to run after our property. Sometimes equipment came back broken with, “Sorry, it doesn’t work any more, but it was old anyway!” Now I’ll usually offer to bring the requested tool and do the work myself — without any charge, of course. If I break my own tool, then it is my problem. But I don’t want to support cruisers sailing around while living on the expenses of others. They have to know that cruising needs a certain amount of money, basic equipment and skills. And if cruisers don’t want to carry tools, then they have to go to a workshop, ask a workman to do the job, and pay for not having the minimum of equipment. cruisers. They spend a lot for a boat but don’t have the money for basic tools. Or else they don’t want to carry that equipment because their boats get too heavy. But do they think I am a rental service? Of course I don’t need a drill, a belt sander, an angle grinder, a saw and so on, every day. But if I need it the first time, it will definitely not be the last time, so I buy that common tool. machine — all things you need quite frequently on a boat. To make everything per- machine — all things you need quite frequently on a because he wanted to make a fect, one evening the workman asked me for charcoal was to be no replacement. barbecue for the greeting-less cruiser. Of course there machine — all thin belt sander, a power saw, a hand saw, a drill and clamps, not to forget the sewing belt sander, a power saw, a hand saw, a drill and clamps, don’t need the cable… oh, and can I use your fridge?” All on the same day. don’t need the cable… oh, and can I use your fridge?” with a huge Christmas smile, if he can again borrow my G-clamps. He had already with a huge Christmas smile, if he can again borrow least I have them on hand. borrowed them yesterday and the day before! Well, at the scaffolding again, in the middle of a paint job. I explain that I am very busy with the scaffolding again, in the middle of a paint job. I explain he believes me. mixed paint, and the drill is packed away. I don’t think Richard, and I mentioned being content with doing five knots. The person we talked content with doing five knots. The person we talked Richard, and I mentioned being that we don’t sail faster because of our heavy boat. with declared that it’s no wonder I have only a 30-gallon water “I don’t have so many things aboard,” he bragged. “And The list of what he did not tank and a watermaker, to keep the boat light and fast.” the freedom to cruise as he have on board was long. Okay, we said. Everybody has sedate. or she wants. Some boats sail faster; others are more have a sewing machine. I am folding. Another cruiser comes along and asks me if I always passing by as if I were astonished because he never even greeted me before, I have it? I need to do some air. “First, good morning!” I say. Then, “Yes, I have.” “Can the boat, and for the moment sewing.” “Well, I am sorry; the sewing machine stays on disappointed. I have no time to do any sewing for you.” He turns away

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D N Permanent Antifouling I Book it now: W Marine Electrics S Watermakers Caribbean Compass Market Place Market Compass Caribbean G [email protected] [email protected] A THIS COULD BE Phone: + (590) 690 221 676 L F YOUR MARKET PLACE AD Fiberglass + Epoxy & Polyester Resins Epoxy primer + Polyurethane Top Coat Time Out Boat Yard Saint Martin or contact your local island agent BOAT PAINT & STUFF [email protected] ANTIFOULING SPECIALIST (PPG Ameron) COPPERCOAT (10 years and more…) Tel: + (596) 596 650 524 Fax: + (596) 596 650 053 + (596) 596 650 524 Fax: + (596) 596 650 Tel: Zac artimer - Le Marin, Martinique FWI Zac artimer - Le Marin, JULY 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 44 We’re the Web! on CaribbeanCompassOn-line Caribbean CompassMarketPlace www.caribbeancompass.com Spotless Stainless Spotless Stainless [email protected] or contactyourlocalislandagent Makes StainlessSteelSparkle. Makes StainlessSteelSparkle. No Rubbing.Scrubbing.Polishing. Brush ON Rinse OFF Rinse ON Brush NoRubbing.Scrubbing.Polishing. Brush ON Rinse OFF Rinse ON Brush Spotless Spotless Available atCaribbeanChandleriesor Available atCaribbeanChandleriesor MARKET PLACEAD YOUR THIS COULDBE Book itnow: eoeafter before Stainless.com Stainless.com

new ideasw/anenviablequalityoflife. Plenty ofroomforgrowth/expansion& international yachtingcommunityand/ OLLIVE COTTAGE TRADING CO. OLLIVE COTTAGE TRADING CO. or amarinebusinessenvironmentwill Laundry detergent, Laundry Toilet &urinalcleaner, CLEANING PRODUCTS AND CLEANINGSERVICE CLEANING PRODUCTS AND CLEANINGSERVICE Fax: 1 [email protected] help carryontheseasonaloperation. Phone: 1784-4952436/1784-4962133 Air refresher, Disinfectant, Rust remover, Proprietors ofthishighlysuccessful Liquid handsoap, Moss cleaner, Bleach, PT-9900-144 HORTA /FAIAL, AZORES provide fortiledfloors, acleaningservice Atlantic islandsoffshore chandlery Carpet shampoo,Superwash/degreaser, saw theiradin [email protected] to tellouradvertisersyou YACHT SERVICES WeWftdti&idtil manufacture domestic&industrial We manufacture: Fabric softener, Tile &grout cleaner, Contact Mr. &Mrs.Gustav Ollivierre ☛ cleaning products in various sizes cleaning products invarious sizes P.O.Box 136,Hope Estate,Bequia Some backgroundwithinthe at a very reasonable cost,andalso at avery are lookingfornewowners. MID ATLANTIC For furtherdetailsplease Glass &multipurposecleaner. make directcontactvia: & marineservicescenter St. Vincent &theGrenadines Carwash, SupershineCarwash, polish, using ourown products.

REMEMBER Dishwashing liquid, Compass y ! JULY 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 45 The 0881 series features advanced lens optics for even light distribution, thus optics for even light distribution, features advanced lens The 0881 series an intensity of strip lamps. With choice of two different intensities Hella offers a under 3W for have an intensity range of of interior LED lamps The 0881 series 67-rated housings, these precision-manufactured units With completely sealed, IP can be controlled with a Hella marine dimmer. Each All 0881 series strip lamps your local chandlery or visit www.hellamarine.com. For more information check Caption reducing glare that causes eyestrain. Premium twin core marine cable is pre-wired twin core marine cable that causes eyestrain. Premium reducing glare on the inte- connections, whether used for dependable electrical and sealed inside of a vessel. rior or exterior light pattern, lamps give off a soft, uniform 2W, the LED courtesy range of less than warm white, lamps come in white, a storage locker. Courtesy ideal for brightening versions are available. Both 12V DC and 24V DC blue and red. in either 12V DC 3500K warm white, and in 5000K white or powerful illumination a useful alternative to 7W fluorescent or 10W incan- or 24V DC. These lights provide descent lamps. moisture and dust. Snap-on end caps cover the fasten- are impervious to UV rays, lamp body, giving the strips a clean, modern look. ings on either side of the polymers, Hella lenses will not yellow or deteriorate. Constructed from advanced 2.54 cm W x 1 cm D and weighs less than 113 grams. light measures 28.5 cm L x on all its LED products. Hella offers a five-year warranty Continued from page 40 Continued from For more information check your local chandlery or visit www.davisnet.com. For more information check your local chandlery or visit Multi-Use Strip Lamps and storage areas, or just Here’s an idea for illuminating dark steps, compartments Two models are available, the RailLight Premium and RailLight Mini. The Premium Two models are available, the RailLight Premium and Attaching in seconds, the RailLight Premium provides enough light for dining or for dining or provides enough light the RailLight Premium Attaching in seconds, for jazzing up your boat’s décor: the new 0881 series of LED strip lamps from Hella for jazzing up your boat’s décor: the new 0881 series lamps, with a depth of just marine. The low profile of these surface-mounted slimline over 9.5mm, means they can be installed almost anywhere. version has four LEDs with a high/low/off switch function, while the Mini has two version has four LEDs with a high/low/off switch function, comes with a complete LEDs with an on/off switch function. RailLight Premium ways. The QuickMount QuickMount system allowing it to be installed three different system can be purchased separately for RailLight Mini. even reading. A built-in sensor automatically turns the light off during daylight, during daylight, turns the light off A built-in sensor automatically even reading. or switch to to turn off the light manually switch enables users while a protected housing sheds epoxy and coated stainless conserve energy. Its sealed low power to white over 10,000 hours. The super-bright four LEDs are rated for water, while all can be seen over system so that the light in a double Fresnel lens LEDs are housed 400 metres away. — JULY 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 46 E-mail: [email protected] Will tradeforrealestate. wind generator,electronics. complete w/solarpanels, cockpit, cruisingready, ENDEAVOUR 40 [email protected] 8828/457-4477 E-mail considerably Tel:(784)582- Must Sell,pricesreduced DIVE BOAT42’ head,swim platform/ladders stereo, deckshower/ passengers, largehardtop, hp YanmarTurbo,seats20 38FT BOWEN [email protected] www.aviationcms.com E-mail: props w/over60speedprops. Bravo 1drives.40MPHcruise hauled byMercurydealer, 502 marineenginesover- shower(s), VaccuFlush,Mercury leather incabin,galley, Grenada. Gen-Set,A/C,white speedboat isavailablein POWERBOAT 47’ JAVELIN/FOUNTAIN Tel: (758)4528531 E-mail: [email protected] 198334ftVINDÖ4549.900US 1987IRWIN44MKII95.000US 2001Bavaria46/3130.000US 165.000 1992WARWICKCardinal46cc 2002BENETEAU505175.000US 2003GibSea51160.000US US DETSR OAIN P# AVRIE LCTO P# DETSR OAIN P# AVRIE LCTO PG# LOCATION ADVERTISER PG# LOCATION LOCATIONPG#ADVERTISER PG#ADVERTISER LOCATION ADVERTISER riigLf SG 32 38 MP 21 MP MP St.Lucia Grenada SVG Curaçao Down IslandRealEstate Dominica Martinique Doolittle's Restaurant MP MP Dominica YachtServices Dometic C/W Curaçao Marine MP Martinique11/MP 2 Trinidad 35 Cruising Life 17 SVG SintMaarten Clippers Ship MP Caribbean Propellers Trinidad MP Caribbean MarineElectrical St.Maarten 15 35 14 SVG MP Caraibe Marine 39 Captain Gourmet Grenada Budget Marine Grenada Boat Paint&Stuff Antigua SVG Blue LagoonHotel&Marina SVG Bequia Marina C/W Barefoot YachtCharters B &CFuelDock Art Fabrik Art &Design Aero TechLab FORSALE

w/cabin, 2x300 w/cabin,2x300 This luxury Center E-mail: [email protected] Trinidad. Tel:(868)634-4346 US$28,000. PowerBoatsin tronics. Readyforcruising. ob, allsails,2anchors,elec- with dinghy,4hpYamaha Bukh diesel,wellequipped 37’ 1982COMET (UK) +44(0)7872226024 (Antigua) (268)788-9056/ [email protected] Tel: US$ 32,000ONO.E-mail: viewing possibleenroute. Tobago forsummer, ing southfromAntiguato ning photos."StB"nowhead- book, lotsrecentregattawin- published circumnavigation again. Fullhistoryincl.1960's great daycharterboat easily bere-convertedas aboard head-turner,could B" isastrong,roomy,live- long tolistsentonrequest."St Dinghy/ob, Inventorytoo 250 gls.pressurefreshwater. Yanmar diesel,100glsfuel, furling genoa,100hplowhrs boomed/ self-tacking,1roller hauled 2011.4workingsails,3 generator. Goodrig,overall LED's,solarpanel,wind nished saloon,rewired2012, deckshwr. Largegalley,var- heads/shwr, mastercabin, Circumnavigations, 6berth,2 rebuild 2009/13.2 BERMUDIAN KETCH “ST. BRIAC”62’LOAWOODEN Tel: (758)458-0523/461-6216 [email protected] Marina, St.Lucia.E-mail: Berthed IGYRodneyBay sels, 13.5KVAKohlergenset. low hrs.2xCummins450die- ally maintained,lotsofspares, Good condition,profession- 1999 CARVERMOTORYACHT 7 tons 36 hp 7tons36hp . Major . Major IT / 8 19 MP C/W MP Colombia PuertoRico 13 Trinidad 41 MP 48 Marina SantaMarta St.Lucia Marina Pescaderia SintMaarten Marc OneMarine UK33/39 12 7 LIAT 9 USA SVG Johnson Hardware 37 Island WaterWorld 32 Grenada Iolaire Enterprises MP Grenada SVG Hotwire Enterprises Grenada Grenadines Sails 10 33 Grenadine AirAlliance Tortola Grenada Tourism C/W Grenada Marine Trinidad Golden HindChandlery 4 37 Free CruisingGuides USA Food Fair International Electropics Trinidad Tortola Edward WilliamInsurance Echo Marine Doyle's Guides MP Doyle OffshoreSails

(868) 684-7720/634-2259 USD75,000 ONOTel: maran, 3cabin,1head. Light weight,cruisingcata- 41’ ROGERSIMPSONDESIGN [email protected] Tel: (868)759-7748E-Mail: Lying Trinidad.US$45,000 3 cabins/2heads, Westerbeke generator,A/C, dual helmstations, Chrysler/Mitsubishi diesels, Fully equippedwith2x BAYLINER EXPLORER3870 [email protected]. Contact tophotosE-mail: US$59,000. LyingSt.Lucia. dive orcoastalcruise. instruments. Lowhrs.fish, ator, fullrigidbimini,A/C, Yanmar, bowthruster,gener- large cockpit,200hpTurbo- Florida. Beautifulboatwith ACADIA 25byAtlasBoat [email protected] 2014. US$200,000E-mail: 3126. FullyAC.SAMSsurvey condition 2x420hpCaterpillar Complete refit2010.Excellent 50’ LUXURYPOWERBOAT Tel: (784)496-5457 2x200hp Yamaha.US$40,000. 31’ BOWENPIROGUE or [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] ADVERTISERS INDEX CLASSIFIEDS of of

[email protected] [email protected] with offers.E-mail:matthew. 2013. ContactMattSemark ions newOct2012.Surveyed Helm seats/aftsundeckcush- radio, aftswimdeck/ladder. toilet, navlights,newVHF (installed July’13).Head/ drive andaluminumprop New MercruiserBravo2stern 6LPA-STP2, 315HP,4–stroke. L-10.97m, B-2.44m,Yanmar BLACK PEARLVEDETTE E-mail: [email protected] generator, newbatteries. steering/AP. Electricwindlass, els, 6’RIB/4hpMercury,self- Volvo. New130wsolarpan- 41' AMELKETCH1977 [email protected] Tel: (784)528-7273E-mail: the markettoday! Cheapest Sundanceron sels, 1992 42’ SEARAYSUNDANCER land, buildings,equipment. ager for31yrs.Complete taurant. Sameowner-man- Bequia’s mostpopularres- Waterfront location, BEQUIA-MAC’S PIZZERIA US$155,000 Tel:(473)443-7819 2 bedroombungalow,fullyfurnished. CARRIACOU-BELMONT www.bequialandforsale.com views, largelotsfromUS$5/sq.ft. BEQUIA -MT.PLEASANT com/www.sailboatforsale.co.uk E-mail: caribcaptain@yahoo. accepted. Must sellUS$69,000offers pit. InCarriacou. Brewer design,centercock- 43’ PANOCEANIC1983 PROPERTY FORSALE excellent condition. excellent condition. withCaterpillardie- eodLf al CW 31 47 6 MP MP Grenada 20 Grenada C/W MP MP C/W SpotlessStainless C/W Trinidad Spice IslandMarine 27 Aruba Slipway Restaurant Second LifeSails 44 MP SVG Sea HawkPaints Renaissance Marina MP C/W 17 Power Boats MP Porthole Restaurant 36 5 45 SVG SVG Ottley HallMarina&Shipyard Grenada Ollive CottageTradingCo. Grenada Tortola 39 Off ShoreRiskManagement Ocean Watch Tortola C/W Northern LightsGenerators C/W MP Grenada Neil PrydeSails 34 Nauti Solutions DominicanRep Nature Conservancy Multihull Company Azores Mid AtlanticYachtServices McIntyre Bros Marina Zar-Par US$60,000 US$60,000 E-mail: E-mail: 75 hp 75 hp Great Great E-mail: [email protected] son. Tel:(784)455-3822 safe, readyforthenewsea- Private dinghydock,clean& of theyachtingharbor. door toahotelinthecentre Water frontlocationnext RESTAURANT/BAR FORLEASE UNION ISLAND–CLIFTON- 5001 E-mail:[email protected] 443-6269 or+44208-621- EC$800,000 LauraTel:(473) Available immediately room, opensontogarden. apt has3bedrooms,1bath- large veranda.Downstairs has 2bedrooms,1bath, den on¼acre.Upstairsapt rey housewithfencedgar- Overlooking TyrrelBay.2sto- CARRIACOU -HERMITAGE www.caribtrace.com Grenadines andTyrrelBay. views overlookingSouthern and multi-acretracts.Great CARRIACOU LAND, hotmail.com deep water. waterfront withsteepdropoffto location. Including50'ofsand $10 sq/ftdependingonsizeand to 9,000sq.ft.PricesfromUS$5 access, plotsavailable.0.9acres Court Bay.Excellentviews,water GRENADA Apartment forrentnearGrenada GRENADA-BELLE ISLE,ST.DAVID’S email: [email protected] Tel: (784)4951177 excellent long-termrates. cable TV.2weeksminimum, view, coolbreeze.Internet, verandah andpatio,stunning or 1bedstudioapartment.Big Large 2bedroomhouseand/ LA POMPE,BEQUIA www.cedarretreat.wordpress.com igloo. Tel:(784)533-4865 Interesting, exotic,Tahiti-style BEQUIA –MT.PLEASANT BEQUIA- BUILDINGLOT islandpace.com 458-3544 Email:emmett@ Island PaceRealty.Tel:(784) [email protected] (613) 931-1868E-mail: 11,340 sq/ft.US$125,000Tel: Quatre andMustique. view ofPetitNevis,Islea property withspectacular La Pompe,oceanfront RENTALS - East side Clarkes -EastsideClarkes E-mail streetiolaire@ Lots Near Near C/W =Caribbean-wide MP =MarketPlacepages42to44

com/specials.htm at http://doylecaribbean. EXCEPTIONALLY SPECIALDEALS SAILS ANDCANVAS [email protected] Tel: (784)528-7273E-mail: Fully rebuilt,zerohrs. marine engines/ZFtransmissions. 3208 CATERPILLAR’S2x3208375hp E-mail: [email protected] (784) 434-8596 daughter missesitALOT!Tel: return ofboat&engine.My gauges.EC$1000 rewardfor hydraulic steering,digital 40hp 4stroke.Electrictiltw/ Nautica /2007Yamaha MISSING CANOUAN Island-DINGHY [email protected] Tel: (473)443-1301 Photos available. ble, affordablestudioefficiency. Marine. Cute,clean,comforta- [email protected] orders Tel:(784)431-5540E-mail: Nazaket Murphytoplaceyour ered toyourtable.Contact herbs andvegetablesdeliv- Mountain-grown flowers,fruit, FRESH PROVISIONS ST. VINCENT-MURPHY'S yahoo.com Tel:(268)728-3510 available. Email:grandalliance@ Guardianage andvillarental leisure amenitiescloseby. gated community,allmarineand 40’ beam.Privateaccesswithin side catamarandockageupto ger piers,6’draft.Sternto&along- mer rates.Alongside45’&50’fin- Private dockrental,specialsum- ANTIGUA- JOLLYHARBOUR www.247sailing.net [email protected] reliable Tel: Louis Honeycutt,experienced& licensed, power&sail.Capt. tain/crew. USCG100ton blue waterexperiencedcap- YACHT DELIVERIES MISCELLANEOUS teeFe ramn CW MP 34 23 Venezuela YSATT Trinidad C/W MP Trinidad YES Martinique Yacht SteeringCommittee MP Xtreme Fueltreatment 41 Grenada9/MP Xanadu Marine MP SVG WIND Martinique Venezuela MP 18 Venezuelan MarineSupply MP Velocity WaterServices PuertoRico C/W Turbulence Sails 10 Trade Windshelpwanted SVG Tortugal Guatemala MP Technick Grenada St.Kitts Sunbay Marina Sugar ReefBequia St. KittsMarineWorks MP MP fromJune2014.12' SERVICES (757) 746-7927E-mail: International E-mail: JULY 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 47

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