A Bouquet for Sybille Bedford on the Centenary of Her Birth
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Five Dials Number 18 A Bouquet for Sybille Bedford ON the CeNteNary Of her birth featuring Roast fillet Of pOrk with fresh sOrrel melted iN cookiNg juiCes braised eNdive a salad Of peaChes aNd redCurraNts Some good Cheese a great trockeNbeereN ausleese CaberNet type Of hock . and indeed a few bites more. CONTRIBUTORS sybille bedfOrd was born on 16 March 1911, in Charlottenburg, Germany, and died in 2006 in London. In the course of a free-spirited and peripatetic life she lived in New York, Mexico, Rome, Paris and the Côte d’Azur and wrote ten books in English, all of which are classics of their kind, from her debut novel, A Legacy, to her 2005 mem- oir Quicksands, dedicated to Aliette Martin. In the words of Bruce Chatwin, ‘When the history of modern prose in English comes to be written, Sybille Bedford will have to appear in any list of its most dazzling practitioners.’ You can read more about her at www.sybillebedford.com. aliette martiN lives in Paris. She started her career by working for les Editions Plon and as an English–French translator. She entered La Comédie-Française, the first French national theatre, in 1975, where she is still working as directeur de la programmation. She met Sybille Bedford in 1992, when she translated her biography of Aldous Huxley into French. She later translated As it was and Quicksands, and is Sybille Bedford’s literary executor. Thanks: simon prOsser, juliette mitChell, Anna kelly, sarah lutyeNs, seliNa hastiNgs, CarOliNe pretty aNd matt ClaCher. Designed by deaN alleN Illustrations by riChard tOdd Subscribe: hamishhamilton.co.uk On Sybille Bedford sold, bought, not ready to drink; the wine is classified as top, highly recom- mended, recommended, borderline, Aliette Martin remembers a writer for whom poor, not recommended. The best bot- food and wine were a way of life tles she had drunk were exhibited on top of her bookshelves in Old Church I love the world – the Mediterranean, the coun- Her integrity was intrinsic in her every Street in Chelsea. tryside, friends, wine and food, architecture, art, thought and action. Her tastes were She had fun marking her wine cata- the riches of life. Why else does one write or both simple, even spartan, and sophis- logues with interrogation points, enthu- paint, except to try to hold a little of that? ticated. Cooking was an art, hospitality siastic YESes and ferocious NOs. She —Interview by Susha Guppy, sacred, sharing food the best opportuni- adored debating with wine sellers, and in Paris Review, Spring 1993 ty for developing friendship and spark- restaurants with sommeliers, who when ing off stimulating conversation. she was in her nineties often finished the es, Sybille Bedford loved life. Nov- She was fascinated by the influence evening kneeling at her feet, amazed by Yelist, biographer, essayist, journalist, of geography, soil and climate on wine the vitality, enthusiasm and knowledge she wrote often about the past, about and impressed by the craftsmanship of of this imperious and shy elderly guest. the tragic century she survived – she wine-making, by the mysterious proc- But she could be difficult too, especially died in 2006 and would have been a hun- ess of growing, maturing, resting. She with wine waiters who didn’t know how dred years old on 16 March 2011 – but relished the nuances of colour, of tastes, to pour properly. Wine for her was a seri- a deep joie de vivre is perceptible in her the richness of the vocabulary, the ous matter, part of a ritual, imbued with a descriptions of the greatest and simplest poetry of labels. sacred, almost mystical dimension. pleasures of life, love, friendship, art, With an accountant’s punctiliousness, In her account of a wine-tasting trip travel. She admired the dignity of daily she kept detailed inventories and stock in Bordelais (La Vie de Château 1978), she tasks; she delighted, as her friend Amalia certificates of her claret reserves, which describes the procedure: Elguera said, in ‘the wonder of light and she stored in the cellars of a London water’ (‘A Brief Visit to Sybille Bedford’, wine merchant. Her wine records bear We look, we chew, we think. It is a 1989). ‘Her understanding of food and coded signs meaning drawn, swopped, slow process (one is standing, if not wine,’ Amalia continued, was ‘a com- always standing still), utterly absorb- munion with earth and sea and climate, ing and near an ordeal – the raw tannin particularly the earth and sea and climate puckers the inside of the cheeks, rasps of the Mediterranean shores that are for the throat like claws, while at the ker- her the supreme instance of grace dis- nel one finds a notion of . what? tex- solved in place . .’ ture, structure, multiplicities of scents, Sybille’s interest in food and wine went analogous tastes; divine staying power, back to her childhood when her eccentric future harmonies. [. .] Lafite makes father introduced her to superb clarets, one think of a cathedral. No stainless never doubting that little girls already pos- steel here, Lafite still vinifies its wine sess a good palate. He also told her tales in those immense, plain wooden vats, about great French chefs he had known, and in the cellar a great range of barrels and taught her how to cook. She first looms in Rembrandtesque penumbra practised by trying to add flavour to the where quiet men – maturing wine dogs’ food. Later, her interest went far need silence – move about their skilled, beyond amateur practice. She would have deliberate tasks. published a cookery book, had the manu- script not been lost or stolen when she was At the beginning of 1974, about to travelling in Mexico in 1946, and she had move from the south of France to Lon- a nearly professional knowledge of wine. don, she offers to exchange wine with On Desert Island Discs, her chosen book was Gordon Taylor, an English wine buff Marcel Proust’s In Search of Lost Time, while who was settling in the south of France. her luxury was a French restaurant in full On 19 January she writes him a long working order. When asked what other letter from Les Bastides, la Roquette occupation she might have had in life, if sur Siagne, to prepare the operation. not writing, she says she wished she had She is obviously enjoying herself: been a cook, ‘or in the wine trade – mak- ing, growing and selling wine’ (interview About the great wine swop. I am en- in the Journal of the RSL, Summer 1995 ). closing a list of what is available. About In her writing as in her cooking, 18 dozen claret and a dozen and a half everything had to be true, authentic. or so of last growth sauternes. You can 3 have as much, or as little, or all this you. I’m not quite certain about exact us, can do for you before your arrival, as you choose or your drinking goes. figures of wine at Louis Le Brocqi’s, as do let me know. And also your deci- How to work it all out? I think this I’ve drawn mixed cases of these over so sions about the swop. Forgive abomi- may be rather fun. There is no need many years.) nable typing. Also haste: I’m spending for you to provide large quantities of I have been drinking the 1966 Talbot most of my time trying to get my claret in England. Nor need it be ready and Gruaud-Larose, and if I’d stayed teeth into some new work. I do hope to drink. (All my major stocks, if I can on here wd have drawn probably on for you that you will get your new call them that, of claret are in England, the 1966 Gloria this year and some of book in order before leaving. cellared at wine merchants. Most of the 1969 (after taking advice), simply I do hope we shall meet in March it is not ready to drink, but I have because one needs wine, and anything either here or in London. enough to go on.) I would be very hap- in these categories is either unob- py to have some burgundy, and equally, tainable or chiefly so astronomically For her ninetieth birthday in 2001, or perhaps more so, to get some Hock, expensive in France, far more so I find Sybille was invited to dinner by her Moselle, champagne, of which I have from the latest price lists than in Eng- neighbour, a great wine connoisseur, who none in England. All we need aim at is land. You will follow your own choice had devised an exceptional succession of some rough equivalent in quality. With and instincts, no doubt. wines: Veuve Clicquot La Grande Dame I expect a bit of give and take; there is [. .] Getting the wine to you is no 1990, Puligny Montrachet Clavoillon 1993 a lucky-dip element in wine swopping problem. If you want anything I have 1er cru, Château Pichon Lalande 1982, which rather attracts me. kept here, it can be ready for you in Château Ducru Beaucaillou 1982, Châ- The only thing I’m keen teau Ducru Beaucaillou 1989, to swop in exact kind are Chambertin Grand Cru 1985, the 1961 Ist growth Sau- Chapelle-Chambertin Grand ternes. I suppose this is easy, Cru 1990, Château Rieussec as my stock is so small. 1986 1er cru. It sounds like the Nor would I want all litany of grands crus recited as the wine at once; and this lines of poetry by Simon in A is rather essential, as I shall Favourite of the Gods (1963).