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Voyage Du 26/01 Au 23/02 2004 ARGENTINE (PATAGONIE) Voyage du 26/01 au 23/02 2004 Ce rapport a été écrit par Jean-Michel Moreau à partir du cahier de notes d’Hervé et Noëlle Jacob. -Buenos Aires Birding de l’aéroport, de l’étage face à la mer: Common Starling: Etourneau sansonnet Neotropic Cormorant : Cormoran vigua House Sparrow: Moineau domestique Brown-chested Martin: Hirondelle tapère Kelp Gull: Goéland dominicain -Trelew : camping Patagonia (entre Trelew et Rawson: 5 ps/pers) Birding dans et autour le camping: Rufous hornero: Fourier roux Southern Lapwing: Vanneau téro House Wren and sparrow Spectacled Tyrant: Ada clignot Chimango Caracara: Caracara chimango Long-tailed Meadowlark: Sturnelle australe American Kestrel: Crécerelle d’amérique Rufous Collared Sparrow: Bruand chingolo Burrowing Owl: Chevêche des terriers Picui Ground Dove: Colombe picui Great Kiskadee: Tyran quiquivi Bay-Winged Cowbird : Vacher à ailes baies direction Punta Tumbo par la N° 1 caillouteuse Elegant Crested Tinamou (30 ds un champ): Tinamou élégant Common Diuca Finch: Diuca gris Long-tailed Meadowlark : sturnelle australe à l’arrivée au site de Punta Tumbo: 15 ps /pers colonie de Magellanic Penguin : Manchot de Magellan Giant Petrel or Hall ‘s Petrel : Pétrelle de Hall Kelp Gull: Goéland dominicain Patagonian Mockingbird: moqueur de Patagonie Austral Canastero: Synallaxe austral Scale-Throated Earthcreeper: Upucerthie des buissons Great Grebe: grand Grèbe de Punta Tumbo, route vers Camarones Lesser Rhea: Nandou de Darwin Coscoroba swan: Coscoroba blanc Chimango Caracara: Caracara Chimango Long-Tailed Meadowlark Camarones puis la piste pour la réserve de Cabo Dos Bahia Sur la route : Rock Cormorant : Cormoran de Magellan Chubut Steamerduck : Brassemer à tête blanche Blackish Oystercatcher : Huitrier noir Chilean Flamingo : Flamant du Chili Longé une petite rivière, à un pont bordé de tamaris : Rusty Backed Monjita: Pépoaza traquet Grey-Hooded Sierra Finch: Phrygille à tête grise Austral Thrush: Merle austral Tufted Tit Tyrant: Taurillon mésange Yellow Billed Pintail: Canard à queue pointue Eared Dove: Tourterelle oreillarde Mourning Sierra-Finch: Phrygille petit deuil American Kestrel: Crécerelle d’Amérique Lesser Rhea: Nandou de Darwin -Cabo Do Bahias : camping club nautique (4ps/pers) site superbe Spectacled Tyrant: Ada clignot Elegant Crested Tinamou: Tinamou élégant superbe colonie de Magellanic Penguin avec Otarie à crinière( lion de mer) Rock Cormorant: Cormoran de Magellan Blackish Oystercatcher : Huitrier noir Chubut steamer duck: brassemer à tête blanche South American Tern: Sterne Hirundiracée Dolphin and Kelp Gull: Goéland de Scoresby et dominicain Southern Skua Southern Giant Petrel or Hall’s Petrel: Pétrel de Hall Great grebe retour Camarones et route goudronnée -Puerto Deseado: C. Canadon Gimenes à l’entrée de la ville: (5ps place+3ps/pers) et sur la route en terre qui mène à la réserve et longe le Rio Deseada avec ses ilets bourrés d’oiseaux. Tour en bateau possible mais annulé cause vent. La fille du Wikingtour indique où voir les Red legged cormorant : Cormoran de Gaimard Possibilité d’aller en bateau (150ps/pers) pour voir les Rockhopers sur une île en mer à 5h de bateau mais trop de vent. Le long du Rio Deseada, route dans un paysage magnifique et sur les ilets : Snowy Sheathbill: Chionis blanc Magellanic Penguin Kelp Gull S.A.Tern: Sterne hirundinacée Chubut Steamer Duck: Brassemer à tête blanche Crested Duck: Canard huppé Crested Caracara ? Chilean Skua : Labbe du Chili Otarie à crinière. On continue la route en passant la barrière jusqu’au panneau Cerro del Indio. Après sur la gauche, on remonte au bord de la côte où nous arrivons au dessus d’une superbe colonie de Red leged cormorant : Cormoran de Gaimard Austral Negrito Cinnamon-bellied Ground-Tyrant: Dormillon à ventre roux Scale-throated Earthcreeper: Upucerthie des buissons Un Seedsnipe qui s’envole Coscoroba Swan: Coscoroba blanc Black Necked Swan: cygne à cou noir Southern Lapwing : Vanneau Téro White-necked Heron Nous reprenons ensuite la route; au bord: Patagonian Tinamou une femelle avec 5 petits American Golden Plover : pluvier bronzé (sur la grande ligne droite qui rejoint la RN3) Puis sur la RN3, environ 50 kms avant Puerto San Julian, étang salé sur la droite avec Chilean Flamingo et Upland Goose: Ouette de Magellan. -Commandante Luis Piedra Buena: C. Isla Pavon (7ps la place et 1.5ps la douche) Beau camping bourré de Long-tailed Meadowlark Après quelques Kms, on tourne à gauche sur la RN 63 pour Monte Leon Le chemin est un peu après le panneau et l’Estancia Monte Leon. A la Isla Monte Leon, colonie de King Cormorant et Kelp + Dolphin Gull, Blackish oystercatcher, Crested Duck, sur une branche, le long de la côte : Black-crowned Night Heron ? Puis Cabera del Monte : on prend le chemin à pied qui au bout surplombe une colonie de lions de mer avec aussi des King Cormorant et Magellanic Penguins. La colonie de pingouins est fermée car ils ont été maltraités et se refont une santé. Vu aussi : Cinnamon-bellied ground-Tyrant : Dormillon à ventre doux et des tonnes de Chesnut-collared Sparrow ? Retour sur la RN3 direction Rio Gallegos. En route on traverse un grand lac : Yellow-Billed Pintail Chiloe Wigeon: canard de Chiloé Silvery Grebe: Grèbe aux belles joues White winged Coot: Foulque leucoptère Chilean Flamingo Coscoroba swan: Coscoroba blanc Upland goose: ouette de Magellan White-rumped Sandpiper: Bécasseau de Bonaparte Et plus loin dans une zone marécageuse: Rosy-billed Pochard: Nette demi-deuil White-tufted Grebe: Grèbe de Rolland -Rio Gallegos: 2 nuits au Camping Chacra Daniel (17ps) impression de camp de concentration avec coupe vent dans le secteur 3, mais finalement nous sommes seuls et très bien. Route de Cabo Virgenes Très vite après 7km Tawny-throated dotterel: Pluvier oréophile Chocolate-vented ground-tyrant: Pépoaza à ventre rougeatre Cinnamon-bellied Ground-tyrant: Dormillon à ventre roux Austral Thrush: Merle austral House wren Grey-hooded sierra finch: Phrygille à tête grise Chingolo austral-negrito Upland Grouse Cinereous Harrier: Busard bariolé Red-back Hawk: buse tricolore Austral canastero: Synallaxe austral Aprés km 112 Dark-bellied cinclodes: Cinclode à ventre sombre Crested duck: canard huppé Chilean flamingo Yellow-billed pintail: canard à queue pointue Buff necked ibis: Ibis mandore Tufted tit-tyrant : Taurillon mésange Colonie de Magellanic Penguin, au dessus de la mer: White-browed albatros Giant petrel Great grebe Du phare on voit un dauphin de Commerson. La colonie était sympa…peu visitée (7 ps/pers) les pingouins sont très farouches. Il y a une aire de camping vers le km 112 dans un coin assez joli. Nuit polaire. Avant d’arriver à la frontière Chilienne, sur la droite, à 55km de Rio Gallegos, Laguna Azul avec : Un couple de Flying Steamerduck Au bord du chemin Cordilleran Canastero : Synallaxe des rocailles Bar-winged Cinclodes : Cinclode brun Formalités d’immigration avec queues pour sortir d’Argentine et pour rentrer au Chili. Ferry à 15heures à 53ps. Dauphins de Commerson. Au loin colonie de Rock Cormorant dans la falaise. De l’autre côté toujours même paysage, grande steppe ventée, herbe jaune, c’est l’été. Avant San Sebastian nombreux Common Miner, Uppland Goose, quatre Ashy-headed Goose-red-backed Hawk. Route goudronnée après San Sebastian. Vol de Two-banded plover juste avant Rio Grande. Enfin on atteint la forêt d’arbres sinueux et moussus, superbes. -Tolhuin: vers Km 2945, Camping Laguna del Indio (15ps) On est en pleine forêt au bord de la lagune, comme en camping sauvage. On se met en forêt loin de l’entrée. 489 Km parcourus depuis Rio Gallegos. Thorn-tailed rayadito nombreux : Synallaxe rayadito Austral Parakeet : Conure Magellanique White-crested Eleania : Elénie à cimier blanc Patagonian sierra-finch : Phrygille de Patagonie House Wren Trous de Magellanic Woodpecker : Pic de Magellan (pas vus) Route vers Ushuaia. On arrive à la montagne, on passe le Garibaldi Pass. C’est après la descente que la route pour l’Estancia Haberton part à gauche, mais c’est mal indiqué. La route est superbe, bordée de forêt, longeant le canal de Beagle. Encore 30km et c’est l’Estancia Moat et c’est encore après que l’on avu un couple de Magellanic Wood pecker : Pic de Magellan, sur un rocher Kelp Goose : Ouette marine, dans les herbes, sur la gauche, 2 Km après un petit phare, Grass wren Retour avec arrêt à l’Estancia Harberton : 2 Andean Condor posés sur une falaise, Km 10, sur la route de l’E. Harberton : Condor des Andes Retour vers Ushuaia. Choix bateau (le Barracuda) : 80ps/pers pour 3 heures d’observations prévu pour le lendemain matin. -Ushuaia: Camping Rio Pipo Le matin, vent trop fort, balade annulée. Retour vers la Pinguinera Harberton où l’on apprends que la sortie à partir de l’Estancia pour aller voir les pingouins est à 50ps/pers. Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego (15ps/pers) : 2 nuits au camping Lago Roca 18 pesos On part birder le sendero Hita XXIV qui suit le Lago Roca, pas de Spectacled Duck : canard à lunette, rien d’autre que des Rayaditos . A la moitié, on revient. On part au sendero Costera qui part de l’embarcadère Zaratiegui, on fait 1.5km, c’est superbe, Kelp Goose, Black-browed Albatros : Albatros à sourcils noirs,Rock Cormorant, Magellanic Penguin, Chilean Skua, S.A. Tern, Upland Goose, Kelp Gull. On prend ensuite la route de Bahia Lapalaïa en reconnaissance ; on prend le sentier des castors avec un magnifique barrage et on voit notre premier magnifique castor ! Au camping un zorro attiré par les odeurs vient prés de nous. Cris des Chimango Caracara au lever, tout un poeme ! A 7h on démarre la grimpette pour le Cerro Guanaco. Superbe forêt pour nous seuls. Après 2 heures de marche, nous atteignons les prairies humides au pied du Cerro. On approche de la limite végétation ; cailloux, Grey-Flanked Cinclodes : Cinclode d’Oustalet, Yellow-Bridled Finch : Mélanodère à sourcils jaunes, Dark-Faced + Ochre-Naped Ground-tyrant : Dormillon Bistré et à Nuque jaune.
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