ESSENCE OF SCOTLAND

Front cover: Ring of Brodgar at sunset This page: Old Man of Orkney is an archipelago of 70 or so islands and skerries (small rocky islands) found off the north-eastern tip of Scotland. Throughout this gently sloping and richly fertile land, Orkney’s famous archaeology, superb wildlife, unique arts and crafts and traditional island welcome are well known – at least to lovers of the good life. LOCATION MAP HOW TO GET TO HERE Numbers refer to attractions listed overleaf. BY AIR Direct flights to airport with British Airways, operated by Loganair, are Places in bold print indicate available from Glasgow, Edinburgh, Aberdeen and Inverness. Connections are accommodation bases. available throughout the UK and beyond (ba.com T: 0845 773 3377). Book early welcome for fares from £104 return (including taxes) from Edinburgh. DON’T MISS £ Paid Entry £ Free Entry Seasonal Disabled Access Hearing Loop Refreshments Gift Shop WC Rainy Days BY SEA There is a choice of sailings available from Aberdeen or Scrabster, Gills Bay or John o’Groats in Caithness. NorthLink Ferries provides a service from Aberdeen to Kirkwall, with evening sailings 4 times a week and Scrabster to 3 times daily

(www.northlinkferries.co.uk T: 0845 600 0449). A967 A986 Pentland Ferries’ route between Gills Bay and St. Margaret’s Hope sails 4 times A967 daily in summer (www.pentlandferries.co.uk T: 01856 831226). A965 1. Skara Brae (B9056, 2. The UK’s tallest sea stack 3. A striking headland with 4. During wartime, the 5. Orkney has inspired

John o’Groats Ferries provides a May – September passenger service to Burwick A964 19 miles from Kirkwall) is an at 450ft high, the Old Man overhanging cliffs, Noup extensive natural harbour many to express themselves on , served by the Orkney Bus, ticketed through from Inverness A960 A961 unrivalled example of life in of Hoy takes its name from Head stands at the north- of rendered through a variety of arts and to Kirkwall (www.jogferry.co.uk T: 01955 611301). Stone Age Orkney. Without the second largest island in western end of the island of Orkney strategically crafts. Environmental and doubt the best preserved the Orkney archipelago, on . The seabird colonies important. The Norse influences are apparent IDEAL FOR village in western Europe, the the coast of which it sits. below the lighthouse here Interpretation Centre in Hoy in the jewellery, textiles, > Norse & Neolithic Heritage> Wildlife houses contain stone beds, Although only the are second only to St Kilda illustrates the role it played. ceramics and knitwear > Arts and Crafts> Food lovers dressers, hearths and drains, experienced attempt to climb in UK terms, comprising Initially considered a safe available throughout the giving a fantastic insight into it, energetic visitors can walk tens of thousands of haven, the sinking of the islands, while Orkney’s how life was 5,000 years up from Rackwick Bay for a kittiwakes and guillemots, HMS Royal Oak forced the heritage also inspired the To view accommodation in this area, go to ago. Together with several close-up view, or simply look alongside puffins, razorbills construction of firmer annual St Magnus Festival. visitscotland.com or to order the local Principal photography © Paul Tomkins, VisitScotland/Scottish Viewpoint. other historical sites, it is across from the Scrabster to and fulmars. Come here blockades between several Founded by resident Additional photography: K4 Graphics, Laurie Campbell and Colin Simpson. accommodation brochure, call 0845 22 55 121. All information checked in January 2006. VisitScotland can accept no responsibility part of the designated Stromness ferry. from May to July for the of the southern islands. composer Peter Maxwell for errors. World Heritage Site. (HS) most incredible sights, These are known as the Davies in 1977, it brings £ sounds and smells! Churchill Barriers, named distinguished musicians MORE INFORMATION after the wartime leader. from around the world to www.visitorkney.com the islands each June. HS: Historic Scotland Astron B44649 2/06 WALKS FOOD & DRINK HISTORY & HERITAGE ISLAND HOPPING

Walking in Orkney can be strenuous or easy going – whichever suits you best. Many Enjoy Orkney’s wholesome Where better to experience Many historic sites in Orkney are managed by No trip to Orkney is complete without beautiful coastal and hill routes take in the spectacular scenery, with opportunities to harvest of the land and sea. mouth-wateringly fresh Historic Scotland, and an Orkney Explorer Pass visiting the smaller islands. Each is see birds and wildlife or ancient archaeological remains along the way. The islands will certainly leave seafood than a North Sea allows unlimited access to each of them. unique in its own way and gives you an you with tastes to remember. archipelago? Orkney salmon 15. Maeshowe ideal opportunity for wildlife watching, 6. The Gloup at Mull Head to the east of Kirkwall (A960 then B9050) is a short and is a central feature of the Neolithic and herring are among the Orkney World Heritage Site. A chambered cairn whether it be on quiet shores, hills or gentle coastal walk with views to the northern isles, along with cliff and heath-nesting 10. The Highland Park country’s best. And from the (off A965), it is considered to be one of the finest out at sea. Here are just three. birds. The Gloup itself is an awe-inspiring collapsed sea cave, while you may choose to Distillery was founded 200 fertile land comes the juiciest architectural achievements of its time, around 5,000 venture half a mile further to the Brough of , a remarkable clifftop settlement. years ago and produces and tastiest meat. Try the years ago. Timed ticketing is in operation, ensuring award-winning whisky. The 7. To reach , catch a ferry from Kirkwall harbour. The Eday Heritage Walk takes farmers’ market next to lots of room and allowing the informative guides to tour within provides a point out all the interesting aspects of the site. (HS) you to Mill Loch where there is a hide to observe the birds, then leads through grassland St Magnus Cathedral on the fascinating insight into the past standing stones and chambered cairns, onto a headland and back over the moorland. last Saturday of each month. £ traditions of these islands. 16. 8 In the heart of Orkney’s main town, Kirkwall, £ 12 lies St Magnus Cathedral. It was built in 1137 11. The Creel in by Earl Rognvald, in memory of his cousin Magnus St Margaret’s Hope is one who was earlier murdered by another cousin, Looking from Westray to A puffin of the most talked about Haakon, co-ruler at that time. Today the beautiful restaurants in the country. sandstone building continues to be a place of 20. The isle of is worship for the local people. Many eateries boast about £ located further north than the southern tip of Norway! Try the local lamb where WILDLIFE the use of local produce but 17. Travel across the first of the Churchill Barriers its distinctive flavour is thanks to the here is one that really delivers 13. Based in the West to see an artistic phenomenon at the Italian Orkney is blessed with an abundance of birds and seashore-grazing habits of the sheep. in style! To save driving Mainland fishing village of Chapel. Built by Italian POWs in WWII, using only marine wildlife and draws nature lovers throughout home again, book into one Stromness, the Orkney the most modest of materials, the intricate interior 21. Westray is, as its name is all the more impressive. suggests, one of the north-westerly the year. Late spring sees the arrival of hundreds of the adjoining bedrooms. Beer Festival takes place £ of thousands of breeding seabirds, from the in late August. It gives those 17 isles in the grouping. Walk to Stanger Head and see Castle o’ Burrian or piratical great skua (or ‘bonxie’) to everybody’s 8. The RSPB reserve in Hoy takes in a range of scenery, including the famous Old 11 dropping into the Stromness visit the local heritage centre at Man of Hoy. Starting at Rackwick Bay, take a moment to look behind you at the Hotel the opportunity to try favourite, the colourful, clown-like puffin. Inland . stunning sandstone cliffs. From here, keep your eyes peeled for great skuas, red grouse out guest beers and cask- meadows play host to a wonderful array of and dunlins on the moorland, along with guillemots, conditioned ales. 18. The Broch of Gurness at Aikerness (A966) is Orkney has the shortest scheduled raptors and wading birds, while the lochs are home razorbills and kittiwakes on the cliffs below. The path 14. The Foveran Hotel’s a well-organised Iron Age village, giving a fascinating flight in the world, taking under to rarities such as the red-throated diver and red- climbs as you continue to St John’s Head, but you can two minutes to fly from Westray to restaurant, located 3 miles insight into community life 2,000 years ago. (HS) necked phalarope. Grey seals breed in huge make the return trip as long or short as you wish. . 12. Orkney has quality from Kirkwall, is a favourite £ numbers around the coast from late autumn, 9. A ferry from Tingwall will take you across the local produce in with visitors and locals. 19. The Ring of Brodgar and the Standing 22. is a short boat while whales, dolphins and porpoise are a regular Sound to Rousay. From the pier, take the road to the left abundance. Try the With stunning sea views to Stones of (both just off the B9055) journey from the mainland and home sight off-shore throughout the summer. for 4 miles. Walk through a historic landscape ranging deliciously creamy ice- Scapa Flow, specialities are also included within the World Heritage Site. to the beautiful Balfour Castle. Head to Mill Dam RSPB reserve to see from evidence of the Clearances of the 19th century back cream, the many cheeses include Orkney’s finest beef, Undeniably mystical, these spiritual places reward breeding birds, ducks and waders. to Stone Age chambered cairns. and the scrumptious fudge. lamb and local seafood. visitors with a real sense of ancient times. (HS) £

16 Orkney £ Paid Entry £ Free Entry Seasonal Disabled Access Hearing Loop Refreshments Gift Shop WC Rainy Days

24 16 OUTSTANDING VIEWS

23. For some of the most dramatic seascapes in Orkney, head to Yesnaby, in the West Mainland, and walk along the cliff-tops.

24. Arriving in Orkney via the Scrabster – Stromness ferry, you will enjoy fine 360˚ views, from the beautiful hamlet of Stromness and its many gable-end houses to the islands of and Hoy (meaning High Island). The ancient 25. The Brough of is a small island off the north- chambered cairn at west of Mainland, only accessible when the tide is low. Maeshowe contains Beyond is a vast expanse of sea and you’d be forgiven for 1,000 year old Viking Runic graffiti. thinking you were on the very edge of the earth. (HS) £

26. Just off the eastern tip of Mainland, the island of Copinsay is uninhabited, save for its huge colonies of breeding seabirds, including puffins, guillemots and kittiwakes, all set below a dramatic lighthouse. Boat trips leave from Skaill in the East Mainland. A game of street rugby 27. From the top of Wideford Hill, outside Kirkwall, known as the Ba’ is played each Christmas and New there is a beautiful view over both the northern and Year’s Day. The two teams, southern isles of Orkney and the capital itself. the Uppies and the Doonies, Watch the sun glint in the copper of the St Magnus battle it out to see who can Cathedral spire and sparkle on the dancing waves. get the leather ball to their Stromness respective side of town. St Magnus Cathedral, Kirkwall