Thenational Weekend

The National weekend Friday, May 9, 2014 www.thenational.ae 13 a cultural extravaganza in Kerala this year. Join thousands of UAE-based Keralites heading home for the Onam festival in August and September, and experience see ceremonies, snake-boat carnivals and song and dance (www.keralatourism.org) Made in Malabar Amar Grover explores northern Kerala’s Malabar Coast, discovering Islamic history, temples and a vegetarian crocodile by Tipu Sultan, the notorious “Ti- ger of Mysore”, during his Malabar campaign in the 1780s. It boasts sweeping views both of the complex and up and down the magnificent coastline stretching beyond. The sturdy walls coax us on a cir- cular walk along the crenellated ramparts, half of which directly overlook the Arabian Sea. We gam- bol along from one bastion to another and duck through a small gate where stairs dip to a short forti- fication protruding into the ocean. Its configuration alongside a small separate beach suggests a spot where medieval ships and boats once landed. It would be all too easy to see little else in Bekal’s hinterland. The Vivanta’s expansive grounds are tranquil, its pool idyllic, the beach almost deserted and there are few utterly compelling reasons to leave. If there’s any disappointment here, it’s the sea itself – strong currents sweeping the steeply shelving beach mean that the hotel urges guests not to swim here at all and it’s obvious that would-be bathers really ought to take care. Just beyond Kasaragod, Bekal’s nearest town, we drop by a couple of curious temples. Ananthapuram, often simply called the Lake Tem- ple, stands atop a hill in the middle of a water tank seemingly excavated from laterite. Male visitors must en- ter the temple bare-chested, but the real oddity here is Babiya, the resi- dent crocodile. Most evenings, say the priests, he returns to the main tank, but by day he’s often found at a small nearby pond. I’m sceptical, but we dutifully stroll to his haunt and join a handful of pilgrims, most of us gazing at its murky water and feeling slightly foolish. We’re about to give up, when a woman implores us to stay, saying that Babiya is about to be fed. The view across the perimeter walls of the Bekal fort towards the coastline beyond. The 17th-century fort, which is the largest in the Indian state of Kerala, boasts an observation tower that was reputedly “He’s a vegetarian crocodile,” she built by Tipu Sultan. Kerala’s tourism industry has chiefly been based in the south, around the city of Kochi, but the history-filled north is now starting to catch up, with large resorts.Photo by Amar Grover adds, “and in all these years has never hurt another living thing.” Pacifism, I suppose, had made it sa- I hear the boatyard before I see est. A couple of large resort hotels king, and he was immediately seen even Kerala, one of India’s smaller cred. Minutes later, a priest arrives, it, a sharp tapping sound waft- already have a foothold on its gor- as a dangerous rival by the city’s states, once comprised several dif- X if you go banging a rice-filled metal pan with ing through groves of palm trees. geous, beach-fronted coast and long-established Arab merchants. ferent kingdoms and fiefdoms. a stick and, kneeling by the water, CHINA Then, strolling towards a clutch of another is set to open in early 2015. Da Gama’s second visit four years The region’s luxury hotels lie far- PAKISTAN NEPAL yells “Babiya! Babiya!” as if calling tall and spindly hangar-like shel- Kozhikode’s international connec- later proved more violent, setting ther north, between Nileshwar and New Delhi a dog. Then he tips the rice into the ters, the extent of its almost Heath tions make it the region’s natural the tone for Portugal’s prickly en- Kasaragod. At Neeleshwar Hermit- pond. Babiya appears momentar- Robinson-style set-up becomes gateway – which is rather how the gagement with the Malabar. age, the striking, low-slung roof Kasaragod ily, the boys are thrilled and I’m clear. Men push and pull two-man Portuguese explorer-navigator “See up there, damaged roof sec- and stout ironwood pillars of its INDIA Ayitty lost for words at sighting perhaps saws through long wooden planks; Vasco da Gama saw it, too, when he tion,” points Mohammed, my im- reception building – populated by Kotty the world’s only non-carnivorous others clamber up rickety-looking landed at the nearby Kappad Beach promptu elderly guide during a barefoot staff padding softly on Kannur crocodile. ladders hooked to struts and mem- back in 1498. fleeting visit to Kozhikode’s Kut- tiled floors – set a genteel, almost Once we’d got over its incredible, bers. And looming theatrically over It’s no surprise, really, that the me- tichira. This is the city’s old quar- contemplative, atmosphere. Six- Kochi tongue-twisting name, Srimadan- them all is a gracefully curving morial to his momentous arrival is ter, which is still largely populated teen cottages nestle beneath shady antheshwara Siddhivinayaka – wooden hull, its keel resting on ru- so plain and almost hidden away by descendants of wealthy Muslim palms in lovely gardens right beside Kozhikode better known (after its location) dimentary sleepers and propped beside a small lane just back from merchants – the so-called Moplahs an exquisite stretch of empty, gold- (Calicut) as the Madhur Temple – presents against timber blocks. the beach. His arrogance and trivi- – whose ancestry lies in the Arabian en-sand beach. Hinduism’s more sober face. Built Here at Beypore, on the edge of al gifts irked Calicut’s zamorin, or Peninsula. Here, at the pale-green, “We have this beachside setting,” beside the Madhuvahini River Kozhikode (formerly called Calicut) multi-roofed Miskal Palli, one of a says Jayan K V, the operations man- Kerala and enclosed by a cloistered court- in northern Kerala, they’ve been clutch of charming old mosques, ager, “but we’re not a beach resort.” Bay of yard, its rounded, three-tiered and building urus, or dhows, for cen- locals still indicate the faint scars He isn’t being sniffy. Aside from 500 km Bengal partly copper-plated roof is reput- turies. This ancient craft derives – preserved for posterity – of a Por- its winning location and boutique- edly unique in Kerala. The unu- not merely from the city’s location tuguese attack back in the 1500s. hotel ambience, Neeleshwar’s rep- Source: Google sual architectural profile is said to on the Malabar Coast and access The Valiyaparamba Then, as now, the Moplahs lend utation is as an ayurvedic retreat. replicate an elephant’s torso – and to timber from the nearby West- backwaters, where Kerala’s significant Muslim com- There are five treatment rooms Ganesh, the elephant god, is the ern Ghats, but its former role as a munity a distinct identity. along with a yoga instructor; and The flightEtihad (www. temple’s most popular idol. great trading centre. For nearly a a slender 18km-long Heading up the coast, we pause most guests embrace one or other etihad.ae) flies direct from Despite signs stating no admit- millennium, the spice trade pow- spit of land shields at Kannur, where several beaches, when not lounging by the pool or Abu Dhabi to Kozhikode tance to non-Hindus, we’re wel- ered its prosperity. Merchants and a lake-like network mainly to the south of town, have occasionally braving the sea’s noto- from Dh1,105 return, comed inside and shown all but the traders came from China, Arabia spawned simple, almost rustic, rious currents. including taxes. The flight temple’s particularly gloomy yet and North Africa – Ibn Battuta, for of waterways homestays. What their accommo- We spent most of our time at Taj takes four hours. atmospheric inner sanctum. One example, noted its wealth and cos- and channels, is dation lacks in sophistication is – at Bekal near Kasaragod, one of the smaller shrine caught my eye – by mopolitan nature – but it was the least for more budget-orientated Taj group’s Vivanta-branded hotels. The hotels Kozhikode: a small cut or groove in its eave, Portuguese who eventually prised probably the region’s visitors – made up for in homespun As my boys quickly point out, it feels Harivihar Heritage hung a sign saying: “Sword mark it open to various European powers. most picturesque if not earthy charm. like a “perfect village”, with rooms Homestead (www. left by Tippu.” It’s a reference to Although a much diminished Ours is perched atop a seafront and villas almost hidden by lush Tipu Sultan who, explains a priest, craft – I’m told that this is one of excursion. It’s a cliff, with an idyllic terrace-cum- vegetation and extensive gardens. harivihar.com) from 8,056 came bent on destroying the com- Kozhikode’s only remaining yards beautiful place dining area overlooking the ocean. On one side flows the pretty little Indian rupees (Dh492) plex. No sooner had he struck the and reputedly one of just five in Steps plunge straight onto a long Kappil River – good for birdwatch- per double including all first blow when he was overcome by India – these skilled boat builders served by a handful beach dotted with fishermen’s’ ing or a spot of gentle kayaking – meals. Kannur: Sea Shell thirst, which he slaked at the tem- still use traditional techniques and of rudimentary public skiffs. Yet for most of our stay, our which, in the monsoon season, cuts Haris Beach Home (www.

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