Crown Continent

THE UNIVERSITY OF MONTANA OF CROWN THE CONTINENT E – NOTES FALL 2009, NO. 1 Flathead Lake N March 1, 1812, DAVID THOMPSON, famED EXplorER AND FUR tradER, CRESTED A HILL NEAR PRESENT- OdaY POLSON. “WE ALIGHTED ON THE E-Magazine Highlights top OF A BARE KNOWL, commaNDING A VERY Crown Issues, Research The Crown of the Continent—what some extensive view of the lake and coun- basin scoured out by a massive gla- call “The Backbone of the World”—serves try far around,” Thompson wrote cier that inched down the Rocky as a living laboratory for climate change, a when he saw an immense, crystal- Mountain Trench from Canada about stage for urban-wildland interface issues and clear lake stretching north toward 40,000 years ago. About 12,000 a tapestry of human and geographic history. glistening white mountain tops. years ago, the ice reached its maxi- The Crown of the Continent Initiative at the Dense conifer forests dominated mum southern advance, dumping University of Montana launched a biannual the shoreline on both sides of this all matters of rubble and creating, electronic magazine that, like this newsletter, helps to shed light on and bring information, wide body of water. On the east, just south of today’s Polson, what stories and photos from this incredible eco- the slopes rose quickly, culminat- is known in geo-speak as a terminal system. Look for the next issue this winter. ing in jagged snow-covered peaks moraine. thousands of feet above the valley At first sight, the ridge looks like To access the E-Magazine, go online to http:// floor. Today, these heights are called a natural barrier holding back Flat- issuu.com/crown_of_the_continent and click the Mission Mountains. The gentle head Lake. However, the moraine on the cover under publications. For more rises he noted above the west side doesn’t dam the lake. In the south- information on the initiative or to request an electronic copy of the E-Magazine and of the lake are the Salish Mountains. west corner of the basin, glacial melt subsequent issues and newsletters, e-mail Thompson was the first white man water broke through mud and sand [email protected]. These publica- to view a site that still holds today’s to reach solid bedrock, then eroded tions are brought to you free of charge, but travelers in awe: Flathead Lake. a narrow gorge through the hard we appreciate your donations. Please see the The blue waters of this sparkling rock. An overlook of the passageway next page for how to help. western Montana gem fill a huge Continued on PAGE 4 PAGE 1: CROWN OF THE CONTINENT E-NOTES, NO. 1 WELCOME We’d Like Your Help Donations large and small—$5, Coming Home $10, $25 or more—are needed as By James P. Foley, UM Executive Vice President we grow our efforts to bring you “The Crown” in a variety of ways aving spent many years away from Montana, where and formats: Symposia, such as the HI was born and raised, to work on Capitol Hill in one we recently held in Kalispell, Washington, D.C., I think of the Crown of the Continent book projects, newsletters, regu- e-publications as an adaptable memoir for those who lar issues of this E-Magazine, etc. experience northwest Montana, Flathead Lake and Your contributions also will enable Glacier National Park. The pictures in the E-Magazine us to get students “into the field” and E-Notes don’t so much tell the stories as evoke them. in Crown areas, offer courses for Instead of relating memories, they conjure them up. The them and the general public, Crown of the Continent is everyone’s place, and, hope- support student research projects, fully, there is a picture and a story for everyone. and provide you and other inter- ested parties with accessible and There is an almost palpable energy growing out of high-quality information about our these e-publications—it also demonstrates that the wonderful and fascinating Crown. Crown of the Continent will thrive for many generations ERIK STEINbakkeN Donations are tax-deductible and to come. For many, the Crown and Montana hold cher- should be sent to: ished names and places which will continue to take on meaning for more people. Most importantly, the Crown changes, but the familiar feelings it brings remain. The University of Montana Foundation, In the Crown of the Continent, one can feel most comfortable with oneself. It’s a P.O. Box 7159, place to begin and grow from. Missoula, MT 59807 I see Mt. Brown and still feel the fatigue, aches and pains from the 8.5-mile grueling hike to the lookout with my longtime friend Randy Harrison. There—in Please make checks payable to the serenity of the park—we would pick berries, talk about fishing and rehash our the UM Foundation with a notation time spent there. When we returned, footsore from up and down the mountain to be directed to the “Crown of we of course would announce that it was be time for a swim in the cold waters of the Continent initiative.” You also Lake McDonald—which would take our breath away during the first plunge. may donate online at https://safe. The Crown evokes memories of an August Congressional recess many years onlinemontana.com/online ago when Montana’s Sen. B.K. Wheeler and U.S. Sen. Tom Walsh sat on the shores montana/fundraiser/?s=6070. Sel- of Lake McDonald. With streams gurgling below and the stars overhead, Walsh ect your desired gift amount, desig- said, “Burt, we are so fortunate no king in the world could have anything better nate it to the College of Arts & Sci- than this.” ences and note that your gift should I was fortunate, more fortunate than my mother and father, who were from go to the “Crown of the Continent Initiative” on the “Additional Com- Butte and Anaconda, to have the luxury of a lifelong connection to the Crown ments/Instructions Regarding Your of the Continent. But that’s enough of my memories and impressions—turn the Gift” page. Thank you. pages and you will find your own. THE UNIVERSITY OF MONTANA CROWN OF THE CONTINENT INITIATIVE Department of Geography – Old Journalism Building The University of Montana, Missoula, Montana 59812 Administration Faculty and students from many University of Montana departments contribute George M. Dennison to the Crown of the Continent Initiative’s overall efforts, including this publication. President Royce C. Engstrom Staff Provost & Vice President for Academic Affairs Rick Graetz – Initiative Co-Director, Geography faculty James P. Foley Jerry Fetz – Initiative Co-Director, Professor, Dean Emeritus, Coll. of Arts & Sciences Executive Vice President Keith Graham – Art Director, School of Journalism faculty Dan Dwyer Ashley Zuelke – Designer and Copy Editor, Journalism and Political Science Student Vice President for Research & Development Joe Veltkamp – Web Designer, Economics and Media Arts Student, Spectral Fusion Christopher Comer Susie Graetz – Editorial Consultant, International Programs Dean, College of Arts and Sciences Any use or reproduction of this work requires permission of the directors of the Crown of the Continent Initiative. © The University of Montana Published by The University of Montana Press. PAGE 2: FROM THE DIRECTORS First E-Notes Offers Crown News, Events for Fall By Jerry Fetz and Rick Graetz tile. We thank the Mis- Welcome to the first issue of what we soulian for the latter are calling the Crown of the Continent article, which we have E-Notes. As we indicated in the first is- reprinted here. sue of the Crown of the Continent E- You will see informa- Magazine that launched last spring, tion about upcoming it is our intention at the University of events in and about the Montana’s Crown Initiative to publish Crown, many of which electronically two issues each of the are sponsored by our magazine and Notes each year. partners in this Crown We have been very pleased by the of the Continent Initia- positive response and comments we tive. On page 9 you will have received from many of you about see the entire sched- the first magazine issue. Although ule for Flathead Valley these E-Notes are meant to serve a Community College’s somewhat different purpose, we hope 2009 Crown of the Con- that you will find them useful and infor- tinent Lecture Series mative as well. that begins Sept. 15. In this first issue we focus some of our Finally, we will strive attention on one of the many “gems” in to let you hear directly the Crown, Flathead Lake. You will find from our partners, such a few photos of this marvelous lake and as the story in this issue the mountains that surround it, a “state about the National Park of the lake” report from Jack Stanford, Association/National director of UM’s Flathead Lake Biologi- Geographic Crown of cal Station, as well as a short descrip- the Continent Map tion of how the lake came into being MISTAKIS INSTITUTE Project. In the next issue, we will focus more and has changed in the past century. its many partners and supporters. on the work our partners in Canada. With this issue, we will also attempt You will also notice in this first issue Once again, we thank you for your to let you know what kinds of events, that we are featuring an article about a interest, comments, suggestions and, exhibits and opportunities are in the research project that focuses on the ef- even, your financial support. We hope works to celebrate the upcoming 100th fects of irrigation in the Flathead River you have lots of opportunities to en- anniversary of Glacier National Park and Basin, as well as one about the recent joy the Crown directly as we enter the suggest how you can find out about change in ownership of an “institution” colorful fall season.

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