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Of Tokushima, Produced by TOPIA, the Tokushima Prefectural International Exchange Association awa life "TOPPY" A monthly newsletter for international residents of Tokushima, produced by TOPIA, the Tokushima Prefectural International Exchange Association. March 2010 No. 236 moraes - 'the man' of tokushima by matthew lindsay he challenges of language 1854. He was attracted to the and cultural differences that ocean from an early age and accompany everyday life for after completing Naval Academy foreigners here in Japan can served as a Naval Officer in the tsometimes seem overwhelming. Portuguese Navy in Portuguese At such times it's usually colonies such as Mozambique. possible to find some solace in After becoming Deputy Harbour the companionship of a fellow Master in Chinese Macao he expatriate. Next time you're visited Japan a number of feeling lonely spare a thought times and developed a strong for Tokushima's most famous interest in Japanese scenery foreign resident, Wenceslau de and customs. After coming Moraes, a Portuguese writer to Kobe in 1898 he served as who lived here in the early 20th consul then consul-general at century. Some regarded him as the Portuguese consulate. a 'hairy barbarian' (admittedly, Upon retiring in July, he was hairy) and children 1913 Moraes came to live in sometimes would even hiss at Tokushima, the hometown him as he walked by. He lived a a statue of moraes with his dog at the of his deceased wife, Yone life of virtual solitude with only summit of mount bizan Fujimoto. While plagued by his pets for company. free if you take the ropeway or homesickness, Moraes could These days, Moraes is 200 yen if you make your own only correspond with his family Tokushima's adopted son. At way to the top. Here follows and friends and didn't return to the summit of Mount Bizan a rough translation of the his homeland for the remainder in a building adorned with brochure included with entry. of his life. picturesque azulejos tiles from From the time he was in Portugal is a museum dedicated Moraes and Mount Bizan Kobe, Moraes sent information to this unique character and Wenceslau de Moraes was born about Japan to newspapers his fascinating life. Admission is in Lisbon, Portugal on May 30th, in Portugal through a column moraes - 'the man' of tokushima ... cont'd on page 3 inside awa life this month moraes - 'the man' of tokushima - 1,3 ... letter from a judoka / tv schedule for march - 4 german loanwords / letter from suketo hoikuen - 6 wander-ful tabi - roaming the rails of history - 5,7 japanese lesson information - 8,9 ... japanese lesson - 10 ... memoranda - 11, 12 Tokushima Prefectural International Exchange Association (TOPIA) awalife Clement Plaza 6F is a monthly publication of the Tokushima Prefec- 1-61 Terashima Honcho Nishi tural International Exchange Association (TOPIA). Tokushima City 770-0831 JAPAN Tel: 088-656-3303 Editors: Fax: 088-652-0616 Andrew Dahms & Mario Dammann [email protected] www.topia.ne.jp Contributors This Month: Christian Bebek, Andrew Dahms, Download a PDF fi le of awa life or view the online Mario Dammann, Vivian Herrmann, Kazue Inoue, version by going to TOPIA's website: Lance Kita, Matthew Lindsay, and Yoko Ota. www.topia.ne.jp/e_index.htm. You can also contact awa life by email: [email protected] from the editor here are four or fi ve days a year when it's The coming of spring isn't the only thing bearable, and after that it's either boiling going on during March; it's an event packed- hot or freezing cold. These are some words month with a little something for everyone. Girls of wisdom that I recieved some years get their just desserts on White Day, March 14, tago when I first arrived in Tokushima. While followed soon after by St. Patricks Day on March there's some dispute as to the number of those 17, and not long after is the public holiday 'bearable' days, the change in seasons defi nitely Shunbun no Hi. And who could forget the Hina does come hard and fast. But thankfully, March Matsuri and Tokushima's own Big Hina Matsuri is one of those good times in the year where it in Katsuura (see memoranda for details). Last is a joy to simply be outside. The air is not too but not least is the annual AJET English Musical warm and not too cool, and you can get about that starts up from March 6 and runs until with a light jacket and long-sleeved shirt without March 20, with this year's excursion a twist on fear of frostbite or burning to a crisp. More the famous Disney movie The Lion King. importantly, it's time for that cool breeze that As the weather improves and it gets easier sweeps gently through the streets and reminds to head outdoors, why not take advantage of all you of times past. Yes, spring is here and after that's on and welcome yourself to spring. the long winter it is a welcome change. Cheers, Andrew the weeping sakura in front of the tokushima castle museum in central park , one of the fi rst cherry blossom trees to come into fl ower (photo by andrew dahms) -2- moraes - 'the man' of tokushima ... cont'd from page 1 titled 'Japan Correspondence'. during the Meiji, Taisho and After coming to Tokushima, beginning of the Showa he pursued a career in writing periods. Also hundreds of while living with Yone's niece, handwritten postcards he sent Koharu Saito. Moraes lived to his elder sister, a record in a terraced house on Iga of Moraes' lifetime explained Street (now commonly known on panels and Portuguese as Moraes Street) where, handcrafts are displayed. enveloped by the vast greenery of Mount Bizan, he wrote many Moraes the Loner works that he sent out to the "Moraes spent much time world such as Tokushima's Bon in lonely contemplation, (a Odori ( 徳 島 の 盆 踊 り ), Yone sentiment used specifically and Koharu ( おヨネとコハル ), for Portuguese known as and Japan's Spirit ( 日本精神 ). a bust of moraes at the site of his 'Saudade'). Abandoning his After Koharu's death in former home homeland, living in continual 1916, Moraes remained in commemorate Moraes. The poverty in remote Japan, contact with her mother, second floor display room is dreaming of his hometown Yuki Saito and her family. a recreation of Moraes' living from afar and yearning Although he received care room and study with a focus for the deceased - in this from them with the onset of on the paintings, desk and melancholy he contemplated old age, troubled by chronic armrest that he loved. The in solitude day by day. rheumatism, kidney disease complete collection of his Tokushima's green mountains and strokes, he died in solitude works in Portuguese such as and blue rivers resembled on July 1st, 1929 aged 75. Far East Travel Journal ( 極 his birthplace of Lisbon and Moraes, Yone and Koharu's 東 遊 記 ), Great Japan ( 大 日 Moraes the foreigner lived graves are located in Chou- 本 ), Water For Tea ( 茶の湯 ), as though consumed by on-ji, a temple adjacent to the and the three aforementioned Tokushima's blessed nature Awa Odori Kaikan at the foot works, along with translations, and beautiful humanity. You of Mount Bizan. biographies and research could say he was a loner that Following his death, Moraes' papers are arranged to serve loved Tokushima," says Jiro many writings were translated as a backdrop to introduce Nita, a writer who is very into Japanese and through the the atmosphere of Tokushima knowledgeable of Moraes. efforts of translator, Tomizo Hanano, his complete works Monuments to Moraes were published. There are a number of well-maintained monuments to Moraes within Tokushima City: Moraes - Equal of Koizumi 1. A bust marking the site of Moraes' former residence is on Yakumo Moraes Street (Iga Town's 3rd Avenue) at the foot of Mount As Moraes spent 17 of the 33 Bizan years that he lived in Japan 2. A monument marking the 100th anniversary of Moraes' birth in Tokushima, he has become can be found in front of the Awa-Odori Kaikan building at known as the Koizumi Yakumo the foot of Mount Bizan. of Tokushima. (Koizumi 3. A statue at the summit of Mount Bizan to mark the 150th Yakumo, otherwise known anniversary of his birth, titled Nostalgia. as Lafcadio Hearn, was a 4. The Lisbon Moraes Square alongside Portugal Leiria renowned foreign writer/ Boulevarde near the Tokushima Zoo and Botannical Gardens translator of Japanese stories.) in Katanokami. The Moraes Museum was Furthermore, an annual memorial service is held for Moraes on 安住寺 ) opened on July 1st, 1976 at July 1st at Anju Temple ( in the Teramachi (temple) the summit of Mount Bizan to area. -3- by vivian herrmann member of the judoka group letter from a judoka - part 4 visit in october 2009 ctober 13: Dear diary! The 13th started with a rich breakfast to be oprepared for the following trail walk. At 8:30am we met in the lobby for the departure to Tokushima's coast. After a one and a half hour drive a few ocean turtles of the Caretta museum in Hiwasa greeted us happily. We went down to the beach to see the fabulous ocean for a few minutes. It the german delegation on the trail in had huge waves and was used hiwasa (photo by christian bebek) at the same time as a film of shock, because a squirmy that we couldn't keep the location for a Japanese drama slow-worm was creeping over money. (Welkame). We became friends our feet.
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