" A breathing space for the cure of souls" Ted Ellis

1 The Broads "A breathing space for the cure of souls"

Norwich City Council Broads Authority St Peters Street Yare House Edited by Lesley Marsden 62-64 Thorpe Road Designed by Norwich City Council NR2 1NH Norwich T 0344 980 3333 NR1 1RY December 2016 www.norwich.gov.uk T (01603) 610734 www.broads-authority.gov.uk 2 The Broads "A breathing space for the cure of souls"

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3 The Broads "A breathing space for the cure of souls" Contents

Introduction 6 Section 1 Section 2 Section 1- Evolution and history 7 Evolution and History Landscape Types

Section 2 - Landscape types 45 1.1 Introduction - evolution and history 8 2.1 The Landscape Types of the Broads 45 of the Broads landscape Section 3 - Landscape 81 1.2 How the Broads landscape has 10 1. Tidal estuary 46 character areas been shaped over many thousands 2. Rivers, ronds and floodbanks 48 of years 3. Coastal dunes 51 Section 4 - References, bibliography 228 1.3 The Human Dimension 26 4. Estuarine marshland 54 and acknowledgements 5. “” areas 59 6. Upper river valley “marshlands” 62 7. Broads 64 8. Carr Woodland 67 9. Heathland 69 10. Settled Broads 70 11. Settlement fringe 74 12. Industrial and post industrial 76 – disturbed or made up ground 13. Uplands 78

4 The Broads "A breathing space for the cure of souls"

Section 3 Section 4 Landscape Character Areas References, Bibliography & Acknowledgements

3.1 The Landscape Character Areas 81 4.1 References & bibliography 228 of the Broads 4.2 Acknowledgements 231

1. Waveney - Outney Common and Bath 82 15. Yare - Cantley to Reedham 148 Hills Area 16. Yare - Norton Marshes to 152 2. Waveney - East of A143 86 Dismantled Railway / to 17. Chet Valley 156 / 18. Haddiscoe Island 160 3. Waveney Barsham, Gillingham and 90 Marshes 19. Marshes 164 170 4. Waveney - to 94 20. Yare - 21. Yare - Marshes 174 5. Waveney - Wall to 98 Boundary Dyke, Barnby 22. Bure Valley - upstream of 178 6. Waveney - Boundary Dyke, Barnby 102 Railway Bridge to The Fleet, Oulton 23. Bure Valley - downstream Wroxham to 184 Fleet Dyke, 7. Waveney - Burgh St Peter to Haddiscoe 108 Dismantled Railway 24. Bure - South Walsham to Marshes 190 8. Waveney - /Flixton to 112 and Marshes 25. to Bure Loop Arable 196 9. Waveney - to Burgh Castle 116 Marshlands 26. Muck Fleet Valley – The 200 10. Yare - Lane and 122 Country Park 27. Ant Valley - Upsteam 204 11. Yare – Cary’s Meadow to Postwick 126 28. Ant Valley - Wayford Bridge to Turf Fen 208 Grove/Whitlingham Marsh 29. Ant/Bure – , and 214 12. Yare Valley - Kirby/Postwick to 132 Marshes Rockland/Strumpsham 30. Upper Open Marsh, Broads 218 13. Yare - Claxton to Hardley Marshes 138 and Fen 14. Yare - Buckenham and Cantley 144 31. Thurne and Bure East Marshes 224 Marshes

Wreck remains on Breydon Water. Julian Claxton 5 The Broads "A breathing space for the cure of souls"

Introduction The and Broads are a nationally In undertaking the assessment process we have unique mosaic of gentle landform, habitats, lakes sought to reflect the relationship between people and rivers. Much of the area forms the flood plains and place, and the part it plays in forming the of the main rivers of the Bure, Yare and Waveney setting to our everyday lives. The Broads landscape, with their associated tributaries. Those people as with any other landscape, is a product of the who live, work and visit the Broads will know that interaction of the natural and cultural components the area exhibits markedly different landscape of our environment, and how they are understood characteristics throughout the 303 square and experienced by people. kilometres that the area covers. The process of LCA follows a well-established This document is in in two parts. The first section process developed over many years. By setting summarises those physical processes which have down a robust, auditable and transparent shaped and moulded the landscape for humans baseline LCA not only helps us to understand our to ultimately manipulate and exploit to create the landscapes, it also assists in informing judgements landscape we see today. and decisions concerning the management of change. The second part analyses the current Broads landscape, setting out the key landscape features The original landscape character assessment was and elements throughout the area which gives completed in 2006, was subsequently added to in an area it's unique sense of place. This analysis 2012 and updated and edited in 2016 as part of a has used a process called Landscape Character second stage Heritage Lottery bid. Assessment (LCA). LCA is simply an accepted Many individuals have made contributions to this method of identifying and describing variation document. Full details of the individual credits, in character of the landscape. 31 individual sources of information and useful websites can be character areas have been identified in the Broads found in Section 4. through this process.. The document also describes a series of landscape types of which there are 13 within the Broads. Landscape types are distinct types of landscape that are relatively homogeneous in character. They are generic in nature in that they may occur in different areas, but wherever they occur they share broadly similar combinations of geology, topography, drainage patterns, vegetation, historical land use, and settlement pattern.

Image - Broads Authority 6 The Broads "A breathing space for the cure of souls" References and bibliography References and Bibliography Websites and publications

General History/Archaeology

A Vision of Britain Through Time Landscape Sensitivity Study Broads 2012 Fadens Map Digitally Redrawn http://www.visionofbritain.org.uk/ http://www.broads-authority.gov.uk/news-and-publications/ http://www.fadensmapofnorfolk.co.uk/ publications-and-reports/planning-publications- Flood Alleviation Project Happisburgh Village Web Site and-reports/landscape-sensitivity-studies http://www.bfap.org/ http://www.happisburgh.org.uk/history/archaeology Broadland Rivers Catchment Plan Land Use, Ecology and Conservation of Broadland History of Boating http://www.broads-authority.gov.uk/data/assets/pdf_ Paperback publication - Martin George,1994 http://www.enjoythebroads.com/discover/videos/ file/0004/457177/Catchment-Plan-website-final.pdf National Archives history-broads-boating-holiday-1900s-1980s Broadland Memories www.discovery.nationalarchives.gov.uk/ Norfolk Archaeological Trust http://www.broadlandmemories.co.uk/ Natural http://www.norfarchtrust.org.uk/ Broads Authority Conservation Area https://www.gov.uk/government/organisations/natural-england Norfolk Heritage Explorer Appraisals (built environment) Natural England National Character Area Profiles http://www.heritage.norfolk.gov.uk/ http://www.broads-authority.gov.uk/planning/ https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/national- Norfolk County Council Historic Maps Other-planning-issues/conservation-areas character-area-profiles-data-for-local-decision-making http://www.historic-maps.norfolk.gov.uk/ Broads Authority Conservation publications Suffolk Heritage Explorer The Great Estuary Story http://www.broads-authority.gov.uk/news-and-publications/ https://heritage.suffolk.gov.uk/ http://www.enjoythebroads.com/discover/ publications-and-reports/conservation-publications-and-reports videos/great-estuary-story Broads Authority Journey Through the Broads The Norfolk Broads: A Landscape History http://www.broads-authority.gov.uk/about-the-broads/journey Geology/Soils Hardcover publication - Tom Williamson,1997 East Anglian Film archives The Norfolk Windmills Trust http://www.eafa.org.uk/ British Geological Survey (BGS) https://www.norfolk.gov.uk/out-and-about-in-norfolk/ http://www.bgs.ac.uk/data/mapViewers/home.html Enjoy the Broads windmills/about-the-norfolk-windmills-trust http://www.enjoythebroads.com/area Cranfield University Soilscapes Drainage Mills Historic England http://www.landis.org.uk/soilscapes/ https://historicengland.org.uk/ The Geological Society of Norfolk Norfolk Mills http://www.norfolkgeology.co.uk/links.htm Historic England - National Mapping project www.norfolkmills.co.uk https://historicengland.org.uk/research/research-results/recent- Norfolk Geodiversity Partnership The Norfolk Windmills Trust research-results/east-of-england/norfolk-coast-and-broads-nmp/ https://sites.google.com/site/norfolkgeodiversity/ https://www.norfolk.gov.uk/out-and-about-in-norfolk/ In the Nature of Landscape: Cultural Geography Norfolk Museums Service - Geology of Norfolk windmills/about-the-norfolk-windmills-trust on the Norfolk Broads http://www.museums.norfolk.gov.uk/Whats_On/Virtual_ Publication - David Matless, 2014. Exhibitions/Geology_of_Norfolk/Introduction/index.htm Infrastructure Geograph http://www.geograph.org.uk/ Wildlife and Conservation Canal Routes Landscape Character Assessment Broads www.canalroutes.net/Waveney-River.html Authority 2006 plus addendum 2012 http://www.broads-authority.gov.uk/news-and-publications/ https://www.norfolkwildlifetrust.org.uk/home Art/Literature publications-and-reports/planning-publications- and-reports/landscape-character-assessments Norwich Fringe Project www.norwichfringeproject.wordpress.com/ Literary Norfolk http://www.literarynorfolk.co.uk/ Suffolk Wildlife Trust www.suffolkwildlife.co.uk Tate Collection www.tate.org.uk 228 The Broads "A breathing space for the cure of souls" References and bibliography

The following list provides an additional bibliography for the individual Landscape Character LCA 10 Areas (LCA's). Some publications/websites have been used as reference material. Heritage England Register of Parks and Gardens Entry GD 3229. LCA 1 White, William ‘White’s 1845 Norfolk, a reprint of the 1845 Directory (David and Charles, 1969). Butcher, David R. Waveney Valley (: East Anglian Magazine,1975). www.norfolkchurches.co.uk/ - for discussion regarding St Andrew’s, Whitlingham. Earwaker, J. and K. Becker, Literary Norfolk: An Illustrated Companion (Ipswich: Chapter 6,1998). Whitlingham Charitable Trust, http://www.whitlinghamcharitabletrust.com/ National Trust - Outney Common Management Plan. LCA 11 Reeve, T. A Common Privilege, Story of Outney Common, Bungay (Morrow and Co:1996). www.norfolkbroads.com Includes article by John Worrall detailing the history of Yare Cottage and John Fox Rider Haggard, Henry, A Farmer’s Year (1899) . who lived there. Skipper, K and T Williamson, the Angles Way Walking in an Historic Landscape (Centre of East Anglian Studies,1993). Tolhurst, Peter, : A Literary Pilgrimage (Black Dog Books,1996). LCA 12 Wheatfen, was the home of Ted Ellis writer and naturalist who compiled one of the classic texts LCA 2 on the Broads. Council Planning Dept. - Geldeston Conservation Area Character Appraisal (1999 and 2013). Levine, George Jacob, A Concise History of and Braydeston (Brundall, 1977). Bungay Conservation Area Character Appraisal (2007). Muter, W. G. A Hundred Years in Brundall Gardens (1987). Ellingham Mill Conservation Area Character Appraisal (2013). Wheatfen Trust, http://www.wheatfen.org/ English Nature SSSI designation, . LCA 13 LCA 3 Carpenter, S. C. : Past and Present (Hardley, 1996. East Anglian writer Adrian Bell lived and farmed in a number of places in the Waveney Valley, including Beccles. Claxton: A Thousand Years of Village Life (Claxton, 2005). East Suffolk Line Railways promote ‘A Walk in Adrian Bell Country’. South Norfolk District Council, Langley Conservation Area Character Appraisal Draft (1999 and 2014). Skipper, Kate and Tom Wiliamson, The Angles Way: Walking in an Historic Landscape (Norwich: Centre of East Anglian Studies, 1993). LCA15 Diana Hanson, ‘Cantley Sugar Factory’, Journal of and District Archaeological Society (2000). LCA 5 British Sugar, www.britishsugar.co.uk. Skipper, Kate and Tom Williamson, The Angles Way: Walking in an Historic Landscape (Norwich: Centre of East Anglian Studies) . LCA 17 LCA 6 Loddon Local History Group www.loddonhistory.org.uk - The group have also published a series of small books on the local area. Skipper, Kate and Tom Williamson, The Angles Way: Walking in an Historic Landscape (Norwich: Centre of East Anglian Loddon’s website, www.loddon.org.uk Studies, 1993). The George Borrow Society, http://georgeborrow.org LCA 18 LCA 8 The pioneering oral history writer George Ewart Evans interviewed the Pettingell family about life on the island for his book, Where Beards Wag All (1970). His recordings are lodged in the National Sound Archive. Skipper, Kate and Tom Williamson, The Angles Way: Walking in an Historic Landscape (Norwich: Centre of East Anglian Hutchinson, Sheila, The Island Past and Present (Norwich: Sheila and Paul Hutchinso,2002), Studies, 1993). LCA 19 LCA 9 The have attracted attention from agricultural and early travel writers such as Daniel Defoe and Gurney, David, Outposts of the Roman Empire: A Guide to Norfolk’s Roman Forts at Burgh Castle, Caister-on-Sea and William Marshall who provide important 18th century descriptions of the area. Brancaster (Norfolk Archaeological Trust, 2002). Hutchinson, Sheila, The Halvergate Fleet: Past and Present (Norwich: Sheila and Paul Hutchinson, 2001); Hutchinson, Sheila, Burgh Castle Remembered (Norwich: Sheila and Paul Hutchinson, 2005). Remembered (Norwich: Sheila and Paul Hutchinson, 2003), Manning, Mary, ‘Burgh Castle Cement and Brickworks’ in Journal of Norfolk Industrial Archaeology Society, Marshall, William, The Rural Economy of Norfolk, Vol II (London: 1787), Vol. 6, I. (1996). The Landscape Partnership, Pilot Landscape Character Assessment for the Broads Authority (unpublished, 2005). Skipper, Kate and Tom Williamson, The Angles Way: Walking in an Historic Landscape (Norwich: Centre of East Anglian Studies, 1993). 229 The Broads "A breathing space for the cure of souls" References and bibliography

LCA 20 LCA 30 Hutchinson, Sheila, Berney Arms Remembered (Norwich: Sheila and Paul Hutchinson, 2003), Horsey Mere forms the inspiration for Hurle Mere in Wilkie Collins novel, Armadale (1866). The Landscape Partnership, Pilot Landscape Character Assessment for the Broads Authority (Unpublished, 2005). Broads Authority, Upper Thurne Water Space: Interim Management Plan (2006 – 2009) May 2006. Tooley, Beryl, John Knowlittle, The life of the Yarmouth Naturalist Arthur Henry Patterson, A.L.S (: Wilson Pestell, R. and Caroline Davison, Wild Waxham (Norfolk County Council, 2004). Poole, 1985). Ready, G. Oliver, Countryman on the Broads (MacGibbon and Kee Ltd, 1967 edition). Great Yarmouth Archaeological Society have published various articles about Breydon. Vincent, J. A Season of Birds (London: Weidenfeld and Nicolson, 1980).

LCA21 LCA 31 Hutchinson, Sheila, Burgh Castle Remembered, (Norwich: Sheila and Paul Hutchinson, 2005). Cornford, B. Medieval Flegg (: Larks Press, 2002). The Landscape Partnership, Pilot Landscape Character Assessment for the Broads Authority, (unpublished, 2005). George, R. The Time of the Bittern (Hemsby: Desne, 1994). LCA 22 Goodman, J. Edward Seago: The Other Side of the Canvas (Norwich: Jarrold Publishing, 1990 edition). Bond, Richard, : Heyday of a Broadland Village (: Poppyland Publishing, 1986). Howard, S. R. The Parish of (: Desne, 1997). Snelling, J. S. Ludham: A Norfolk Village (E. Mumby, 1999) . LCA 23 Horning is central to two of Arthur Ransome's books in the Swallows and Amazons series – Coot Club and The Big Six. Burntfen Broad was owned as part of a 71 acre sporting estate by Broads writer George Christopher Davies, credited with popularising the broads as a destination. Carrodus, C. F.(ed.), Life in a Norfolk Village (Soman-Wherry, 1949). Wardale, Roger, Arthur Ransome’s East Anglia (North Walsham: Poppyland Publishing, 1988).

LCA 24 Grint, Brian. S, An Acle Chronicle (North Walsham: Poppyland Publishing, 1989). Acle Lands Trust, http://aclepc.norfolkparishes.gov.uk/category/acle-lands-trust/

LCA 25 Cornford, Barbara, Medieval Flegg (Dereham: Larks Press, 2002). Tooke, Colin, West Caister (Caister-on-Sea: Tookes Books, 2004).

LCA 27 Bird, M. C. H. The Rural Economy Sport and Natural History of ’. Transactions of the Norfolk and Norwich Naturalists Society 8, 5, (1909), pp. 631-666. Manning, Mary, ‘ Brickyard’ in the Journal of the Norfolk Industrial Archaeology Society, Vol 6 No 2 (1997). Dilham Canal Trust, http://www.nwdct.org/

LCA 28 Broads Authority, Water Space Management Plan (May 2006).

LCA 29 Carrodus, C. F. (ed.), Life in a Norfolk Village (Soman-Wherry, 1949). Snelling, J. S. Ludham: A Norfolk Village (Potter Heigham: E. Mumby, 1999).

230 The Broads "A breathing space for the cure of souls" Acknowledgements Acknowledgements

The Water, Mills and Marshes: the Broads Landscape Acme Ltd. Katy Walters* Partnership Scheme would like to acknowledge the Adrian Cable* Keith Evans* following people and organisations for their contribution Adrian Hodge* Kevin Lloyd* to the contents of this publication. Adrian S Pye* Lesley Marsden Alison Allen* Linda Bailey* Text Alison Yardy Maigheach Gheal* Alison Yardy - Acting Senior Historic Environment Ashley Dace* Matthew Chadwick* Officer (Records) Norfolk County Council Ben Hogg Mike Flaherty Bob Crook* Mike Page Tim Holt-Wilson – Geologist Brendan Joyce N Chadwick* Professor Tom Williamson – University of East Anglia Broads Authority Nick Smith* Lesley Marsden – Landscape Architect Norwich City Council Broadland Memories Nigel Thompson* Broadland Flood Alleviation Scheme Norfolk Archaelogical Trust Norfolk Archaeological Trust Chris McAuley* Norfolk Wildlife Trust Land Use Consultants Christine Johnstone* Norwich Fringe Project Layout and Artwork Christine Matthews* Peter Tarleton* Christobal Palma Peter Trimming* Karen Sayer – Broads Authority Colin Park* P.H.Emerson David Bygrave - Norwich City Council Craig Tuck* Phil Champion* Sally Barratt – Norwich City Council Dave H* Pierre Terre* David Medcalf* Renata Edge* Photographs Don Cload* Richard Humphrey* A special thanks to all those photographers (marked with Evelyn Simak* Richard Osbourne* an asterisk *) who have posted their images to the Gareth Hughes* Rob Driscoll website: Geograph http://www.geograph.org.uk/ Glen Denny* Rob Walker* Glyn Baker* Rod Allday* This work is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution- Graham Hardy* Rodney Burton* Share Alike 2.0 Generic Licence. To view a copy of this licence, Graham Horn* Roger Jones* visit: http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.0/ Heather Wallis Shorebase or send a letter to Creative Commons, 171 Second Street, Helen Steed* Simon Finlay Suite 300, San Francisco, California, 94105, USA. Hugh Venables* Stacey Harris* Ian Aitken Stephanie Anderson We have tried to credit the copyright of all images used Ian Robertson* Stephen Mckay* in this publication. We will be happy to receive requests Ian Russell* Steve Daniels* for any missing credits and these will be incorporated in Ian S* Suffolk Wildlife Trust future versions. J Thomas* Suse* Jackie Dent Tim Heaton* Jeremy Halls* Tom Barrett John Salmon* Waveney Rush Company Julian Claxton Whitlingham Charitable Trust

231 The Broads "A breathing space for the cure of souls"