A SUPPLEMENT to COSMETIC DERMATOLOGY® S1 February 2012 Alicia Wendt 973-206-8098

S1 February 2012 A SUPPLEMENT TO COSMETIC DERMATOLOGY®

Reception Area Edition for Patients

Copyright Cosmetic Dermatology 2012. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the prior written permission of the Publisher. Tired of your daily dandruff shampoo?

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IFC_HSH_2_12.indd 2 1/18/12 9:27 AM Group Editor Melissa Steiger 973-206-8096

Assistant Managing Editor A SUPPLEMENT TO COSMETIC DERMATOLOGY® S1 February 2012 Alicia Wendt 973-206-8098

Editorial Assistant Camille Malanka Proofreader Reception Area Edition for Patients Michele V. Murray

Art Director Smita Sawant 973-206-8977 contentsIs Beautiful Hair Healthy Hair? Creative Director 2 How to Have Both Mary Ellen Niatas 973-206-8973 Not All Hair Is Alike Production Manager Jaime Serra 3 Characteristics of Your Hair Type 973-206-8011 Corporate Circulation Director On the Wild Side Donna Sickles 5 Living With Your Hair Type Subscription Service 800-480-4851

Senior Vice President/Group Publisher Taking Control Sharon Finch 8 Minimize Damage to Your Hair 973-206-8952 Publishing Consultant Feeling Flaky Claudia Shayne-Ferguson 914-522-3188 9 Recognize and Treat the Cause Administrative Assistant of Dandruff Nikki Vargas 973-206-8015 Label Wise Classified Advertising Julian Knight 11 Identifying Key Ingredients 973-206-2317 Advertising/Billing Director Going Natural Tracy O’Keefe 973-206-8022 13 Using Ingredients From Mother Nature Reprint Inquiries Sharon Finch • [email protected] Staying on Top Director, Marketing Research 14 Recognizing Signs and Symptoms of Lori Raskin 973-206-8013 Damage and Disease

Trend Spotting Quadrant HealthCom Inc. 16 The Inside Track on Taking Care Chairman Stephen Stoneburn of Your Hair

President & CEO Marcy Holeton Publisher: Cosmetic Dermatology ® (ISSN 1041-3766) (GST #128741063) is published monthly by Quadrant HealthCom Inc., with editorial and advertising President, Primary Care Division offices at 7 Century Dr, Suite 302, Parsippany, NJ 07054-4609, telephone JoAnn Wahl 973-206-3434, fax 973-206-9378. CFO Periodicals postage paid at Parsippany, NJ, and at additional mailing offices. Douglas E. Grose

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Copyright Cosmetic Dermatology 2012. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the prior written permission of the Publisher. Damage Control A healthy scalp and hair can be achieved in those with damage. Whether it is color or chemical processing used to create curly volume or straight strands, most of us know that these treatments over time can damage our hair. Befriend the hair you have and avoid damaging hairstyling techniques. If you prefer to use color or other chemical processes on your hair, be sure to use them as directed by a qualified stylist. Also use conditioners that will help with coating the hair and protect against weathering from chemical use (ie, dimethicone-containing products). There is some damage you can- not control. With age your hair may demand a special treatment. The change in seasons also may impact your hair. Some hair characteristics are part of your genetic and ethnic makeup. Pay attention to your hair and how it is responding to your treatment regimen and Is Beautiful Hair be prepared to alter course as different needs arise. Eating a healthy balanced HHow toealthy Have Both Hair? diet can only help with hair health. Although specific nutrients are not known to help the appearance of hair, e have been condi- the cuticle becomes damaged, those who have a healthy diet tend tioned to believe that these things also take a hit. to have fewer hair problems. Find our hair must be flow- out what will work for your healthy ing, shiny, and vibrant  Frizz in the forecast. The diet by speaking with a nutritionist. to be healthy. However, healthy beau- cuticle protects the inside layer of the For hereditary hair conditions tiful hair is really measured by break- hair (the cortex), which is responsible or disease, take note of specific Wage and shedding. Smooth spirals for retaining moisture. Moisture keeps symptoms. There are hundreds of or sleek straight styles doctored with the hair strong and prevents break- products on the shelves with differ- gels and hot irons are not necessar- age. If your hair is damaged, you are ent and varying amounts of active ily what the doctor orders for hair to more likely to have static and frizz, ingredients specifically targeting a be healthy and strong. From nearly which are characteristics of dry hair. variety of hair and scalp hang-ups. unnoticeable split ends to weighed Learn to read labels so that you down hair dotted by flakes, damage  Breakage problems. Wet can easily identify ingredients and comes in a variety of packages. hair is vulnerable hair. If your cuticle concentrations that will work best is damaged, it easily stretches for your hair type or scalp condition.  A lack of luster. Your hair and breaks when combed. Because healthy beautiful hair is protected by a layer of keratin- does not break or shed when styled, ized scales called the cuticle.  A scaly scalp. Your scalp lays treat your tresses well by making the A normal undamaged cuticle is the foundation for healthy hair, but right adjustments to your hair care as smooth and reflects light. The it is prone to environmental, hair- needs change. No matter what hair cuticle also is what gives your styling, and product abuse, which type you have, there are solutions for hair its texture and luster. When can lead to scaling and flaking. your hair problems. 

2 HEALTHY SKIN & HAIR / FEBRUARY 2012 WWW.COSDERM.COM

Copyright Cosmetic Dermatology 2012. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the prior written permission of the Publisher. Not All Hair Is Alike Characteristics of Your Hair Type

he look and feel of hair var- color) hair in Asian individuals and it ies from person to person often becomes damaged when these because of race, age, or even procedures are used because higher T the use of medications. concentrations of chemicals and Physiologically, all hair is similar. longer treatment times are needed. All hair is made up of a follicle and In contrast, hair in black indi- shaft. The shape of the hair shaft viduals generally is characterized by determines our hair type. Because a fragile and tightly curled hair shaft. not all hair is alike, you owe it to your Hair fibers have a large diameter, tresses to understand what differenti- explaining the coarseness of the hair. ates your hair type from another. It also is most prone to breakage and damage from hair care practices. Hair by Trait Hair in white and Hispanic indi- Race influences the shape of the hair viduals can be straight, curly, or wavy. shaft and grooming ease. Hair in In general, the hair has moderate Gray hair may appear sooner in Asian individuals tends to be naturally moisture and oil levels. Variation white and Hispanic individuals, but shiny because it is straight and has within this group leaves some with regardless of race, gray hair is more high moisture and oil levels. It also is weaker hair and others with stronger coarse, stiff, and dries faster than strong and does not break as eas- hair; for example, curly hair typically pigmented hair. Gray hair grows ily as other hair types. But it is more is more vulnerable to dryness and more slowly and is weaker, mak- difficult to chemically alter (perm or breaking as well as a dull appearance. ing it more susceptible to damage.

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Copyright Cosmetic Dermatology 2012. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the prior written permission of the Publisher. r NOT ALL HAIR IS ALIKE

Some drugs may be the cause of unexplained hair loss:

 Acne medications containing vitamin A/ retinoids  Antidepressants  Birth control pills Hair by Numbers Our hair even changes as we age.  Drugs that treat Each strand of hair has an expected breast cancer life of 4 or 5 years on average. When the hair strand falls out,  Epilepsy drugs it is replaced with a new one. (anticonvulsants) With age, hair becomes fine, thin,  High blood pressure and has less pigment, which may medications make it look faded in color or turn it gray. Gray hair may begin to show in  Hormone replacement your 30s. Genetics determines if you therapy will go gray (and eventually white). Some hair follicles may shut down,  Parkinson disease drugs producing no new hair growth. The most common cause of hair loss changes in hair color or texture more  Thyroid medications in men is male pattern baldness. likely. If you have any unexplained Approximately 25% of men will begin changes in your hair, tell your  Weight loss drugs showing signs of hair loss at the tem- dermatologist who will try and diag- ples or top of the head by 30 years of nose your hair dilemma by examining age. By 60 years, approximately two- your scalp and, if necessary, running thirds of men will have substantial a variety of tests such as pulling on baldness in one or both of these areas. approximately 30 hairs to see how Women also may develop female many come out; looking at the shape, pattern baldness, causing the hair length, and strength of the hair shaft; to thin and the scalp to be exposed, running a thyroid function test to look but hair loss due to chemical or for thyroid disorders; biopsying the mechanical damage may be more scalp; or performing hormone tests. likely. Chemical straightening, relax- If you are going through chemo- ers, and perms, as well as tension therapy, you may experience hair loss; caused by tight braids or cornrows, some newer, more targeted chemo- can damage all hair types and cause therapy drugs will not affect hair. Your temporary or permanent loss. hair may gradually thin or fall out all at once. However, hair does grow back, Medication Mix usually within a couple of weeks after To print, download, Whether it is an acne pill or antide- chemotherapy is complete. As it grows or send to a friend, pressant, drugs can affect hair, making back, it may have a different texture cosderm.com hair loss, excess hair growth, or even or be curlier than it was before.  go to

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Copyright Cosmetic Dermatology 2012. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the prior written permission of the Publisher. On the Wild Side Living With Your Hair Type

e tend to covet hair naturally frizzy or chemically fried? avoid washing your hair too often and we do not have. If Is it fine or beginning to thin? We be sure to use a leave-in conditioner your hair is curly, you are born with some hair issues, but to keep hair from becoming too dry. W may want straight others we create on our own. Also try to increase the time between hair; if it is straight, you may want trips to the salon for procedures such curls and volume. To achieve the Ethnic Variations as keratin straightening treatments. look of healthy beautiful hair, how Asian individuals have heavy and If you are African American, can you work with your hair type? straight hair that requires higher your hair is more susceptible to concentrations of chemicals and longer heat and chemical damage. If Know Your Hair treatment times, which leads to dam- you style your hair with braids or Get to know your hair. Is it dry, age. If you chemically process your weaves or use chemical relaxers, oily, or a little bit of both? Is it hair to go wavy or make it straight, your hair can become even more

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Copyright Cosmetic Dermatology 2012. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the prior written permission of the Publisher. r ON THE WILD SIDE

brittle. Use an intensive condi- natural or go darker, stay within powder to conceal the scalp. Avoid tioner and/or a daily leave-in con- 3 color shades of your natural color). conditioning shampoos because ditioner to moisturize your hair. If you have textured curly hair they can weigh down your hair and In white and Hispanic individuals, and use chemical straighteners or make it look limp and thin; use hair that is chemically processed or relaxers, remember that your hair volumizing shampoos that usu- colored may become dull and dry. will be more prone to heat-related ally have ingredients (ie, protein) If you chemically treat your hair, damage. To protect your hair, wash to coat the hair and create a fuller use heat styling sparingly. Because with shampoos and conditioners appearance. Use a conditioner but hair can vary from straight to that offer intensive conditioning; be sure that it is for fine hair. Select curly, use a shampoo/conditioner dry hair under a hood dryer or cap, a low-heat setting when drying, made for your hair shape. not with the direct heat of a hair curling, or straightening your hair. dryer; and use rollers instead of curl- Be Solution Savvy ing irons or flat irons. If you opt to Hair Loss Because hair is not a living part embrace your curls, use more robust Hair loss can be the result of your that the body can repair, strategies products designed to maintain your genetic code, a medication, or your for masking damage are important curls and minimize frizz; use a light diet. If an environmental factor to restore the look of healthy hair. leave-in conditioner every day; and is the cause, you may be able to Use products with dimethicone to wash your hair about once a week. reverse hair loss by working with increase manageability and shine; your dermatologist to determine select shampoos and condition- Thick and Thin the source. Hair transplantation ers designed to improve moisture If thin or fine hair is your rival, make and topical agents such as minoxi- and minimize frizzies; or modify your hair look fuller with a tempo- dil are other options you may want your hair coloring regimen (ie, go rary hair cosmetic similar to pressed to consider. 

Stop Damage in Its Tracks Placing tension on the hair can contribute to hair loss. Recent research has shown that braids and weaves are linked with central hair loss as a result of traction. The solution? Go au naturel. To manage frizz and maintain curls, use a silicone- or glycerin-based product to add moisture and define the hair shape.

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007_HSH_2_12.indd 2 1/18/12 9:31 AM skin! UV rays can fade your hair color, dry your hair shafts, and split your ends. (You also risk a sunburned scalp!) To shield and protect your hair and scalp from the sun, wear a hat or swim cap.

Use Products With Purpose There are tons of products to clean, moisturize, or smooth your hair. But before slathering on solutions, step back to the basics. Shampooing too frequently will strip the hair of its natural oils. As a result, the tendency is to overcondition, which can make hair feel heavy and oily, precisely what compels you to wash it yet again. Bring back balance by shampooing TakingMinimize Damage to YourControl Hair your scalp and letting the shampoo run through your hair without working it in, conditioning your ends first he combination of treat- reaction in the hair to achieve the and working your way up toward ments and products we desired color. The ingredients in the scalp, and using a pH-balanced use to straighten, curl, or hair relaxers also increase your shampoo to control frizz. Talk with color our way to perfectly risk for hair breakage and loss. your dermatologist about styling prod- manicured hair ironically is the The presence of formaldehyde is ucts or concerns you have about the culprit of irreparable damage. Hair a concern in keratin-based hair appearance of your hair.  Tis porous, damaged hair even more straightening treatments, but the so, which means it readily absorbs flat iron used in the process to seal what you put into it. To protect your the cuticle also garners concern. Treatment hair from damage and maintain To protect your hair from chemi- Tips for healthy hair, start by taking control. cal processing, extend the time Your between straightening/relaxer Tresses Turn Down the Heat treatments; the less you process, Heat is a common source of dam- the less the damage! Choose  Moisturize hair regularly to reduce the appearance of heat- age, especially when the hair is a color within 3 shades of your damaged hair or stop using the wet. Turn down the heat with these natural color or try a semiperma- heat source easy tips: allow your hair to par- nent or temporary hair color. tially air dry, stop or minimize the  Pick a shampoo/conditioner source of heat damage, or use Get Style Savvy based on your hair type (straight, a temperature-controlled device Tension from hair extensions, braids, curly, fine, frizzy) and gradually increase heat. and other hairstyles can cause hair  Use products with dimethi- breakage or hair loss. To maintain cone to increase shine and Cut Back on Chemicals healthy hair, avoid pulling hair too improve manageability Straightening, curling, or coloring tight into ponytails or braids, and do your hair with chemicals, especially not brush your curls. If you experi-  Use a conditioner with protein to repair split ends when you combine treatments, can ence unexplained hair loss, see cause moisture loss, making hair your dermatologist.  Look for heat-shielding and dry, dull, and prone to breaking. hydrating products that contain Frequent coloring can damage the Be Sun Smart silicone to coat the hair, seal in hair. Permanent hair color is oxida- Sun damage is a concern for moisture, and fight breakage tive, causing an actual chemical your hair and scalp, not just your  Get regular haircuts to remove damaged ends and maintain a healthy appearance d Go to www.cosderm.com to print, download, or send to a friend

8 HEALTHY SKIN & HAIR / FEBRUARY 2012 WWW.COSDERM.COM

Copyright Cosmetic Dermatology 2012. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the prior written permission of the Publisher. Feeling Flaky Recognize and Treat the Cause of Dandruff

ymptoms such as an itchy A number of medicated shampoos are and sunburn can cause the scalp flaky scalp are embar- available over-the-counter and most to become irritated and flaky. rassing and can affect fit right into your regular routine. The most common cause of S your self-esteem. Flakes dandruff is a skin condition called can be caused by low humidity, an The Root of the Matter seborrheic dermatitis. This condi- allergic reaction to a hair prod- First, treating dandruff requires tion is associated with irritated oily uct, or overshampooing. Frequent that you determine the root of waxy patches of skin that result in itching and flaking could indicate the problem. Finding the source white to yellowish brown flakes. In dandruff, seborrheic dermatitis, or of your particular irritation will severe cases, patches can affect other scalp psoriasis. But no one wants help you pick the right solution. areas of the head and body such as to be looking over their shoulder Flakes associated with dry in and around the ears, eyebrows, for dandruff. The good news is that scalp are typically small and sides of the nose, armpits, upper cleansing properly with a gentle it is likely that you will notice back, and groin. Although the exact shampoo is all you need to keep dry skin on other parts of your cause of seborrheic dermatitis is not most mild cases of dandruff at bay. body. Similarly, sun exposure known, it is believed that genetic

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Copyright Cosmetic Dermatology 2012. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the prior written permission of the Publisher. r FEELING FLAKY

factors, stress, climate, and general Medicated shampoos are available the natural oils and roughing health are culprits. Another cause and each contains different types of up the cuticles on your hair. Con- might be yeast called Malassezia active ingredients. Shampoos contain- ditioners protect the hair. They are that can be found on nearly every- ing salicylic acid break down scalp applied with a focus on the hair shaft one’s head but can irritate the scalp, buildup and split flakes into small and ends to moisturize, nourish, resulting in oily clumps of flaky skin. pieces, making it easier to wash them and protect from further damage. Scalp psoriasis is another common away. Coal tar, a by-product of the Conditioners leave a coating on cause of an itchy scalp. Depending coal manufacturing process, is an the hair, replacing the natural oils on the severity of the condition, it ingredient that slows down overpro- rinsed away by shampoo, to restore can appear with red patches to thick duction of skin cells and helps the pH of the scalp, smooth the silvery scales due to overproduc- treat dandruff, seborrheic dermatitis, cuticle, and seal split ends, mak- tion of skin cells accompanied by and psoriasis. Antibacterial and ing hair more manageable and less itching and bleeding. It can appear antifungal shampoos containing prone to friction and tangling. as small patches or it may cover zinc pyrithione can reduce the yeast Because there are a number of the entire scalp. People with scalp on your scalp that may be causing treatment options available, if one psoriasis also may have psoriasis dandruff and seborrheic dermatitis. does not work for you, it would be patches on other areas of the body, Selenium sulfide sham- worth trying another. If such as the elbows and knees. poos may reduce yeast your scalp becomes red Aside from medical conditions, growth as well as or swollen, it is time frequent combing and shampooing slow down skin cell to see your doctor often can irritate your scalp, and not turnover. Shampoos or dermatologist to shampooing often enough can lead containing keto- determine if your to product or oil buildup, which can conazole work by dandruff is due to create flakes of dandruff. Similarly, eliminating yeast a condition such as allergic reactions to ingredients in or fungal growth. seborrheic der- your hair care products can lead to Your dermatolo- matitis or psoriasis an itchy, inflamed, and flaking scalp. gist may recommend that might require a For many people, the presence that you rotate shampoos stronger or prescrip- of flakes may coincide with the to get the best results, using tion treatment.  seasons. As the seasons change, specific shampoos on alternate days so should your hair routine. and your favorite cosmetic shampoo Adjust your hair care to minimize the rest of the time. For example, weather-related scalp afflictions. you might want to try a medicated shampoo once a week and then use Scalp Solutions your regular shampoo the rest of Regular cleansing with any gentle the time. Medicated shampoos are shampoo will help to prevent a stronger than daily washes, warrant- buildup of skin cells on your scalp. If ing follow-up with a conditioner. product buildup is already an issue, reduce the number of styling products Conditioners you use, as styling gel, mousse, and Using a daily dandruff shampoo hair spray can build up on your scalp. can be harsh and requires a good In addition, the more products you follow-up conditioner. Medicated use, the more likely you are to expose shampoos and some regular cleansers your scalp to irritating ingredients. can be hard on your hair, stripping

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Copyright Cosmetic Dermatology 2012. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the prior written permission of the Publisher. Common Ingredients in Hair Products and Their Purpose

 Water—The bulk of every formula because without enough of the liquid, the product will not work.

 Surfactant/Detergent— The cleaning agent. It works by lifting dirt and oil, so water can rinse them away. Ingredients include ammonium lauryl sulfate, ammonium laureth sulfate, and sodium lauryl sulfate.

 Foaming agent— Ingredients that provide suds, such as cocamide or cocamidopropyl betaine.

 Acid—Ingredients such as sodium citrate or citric acid are used to keep shampoo at the right pH level so it does not cause hair damage or irritate the scalp.

 Silicone—Deposits a lightweight coating to smooth and shine. Dimethi- cone is an example.

 Polyquaternium—Fights static and thickens sham- Label Wise poo, making it easier to pour.  Conditioner—Locks in Identifying Key Ingredients moisture and helps the cuticle lay flat to create smoothness and shine. Typi- cal ingredients include fatty alcohols, fatty esters, veg- electing hair care products in some cases, the product is named etable oils, mineral oils, can be a daunting task. The after that ingredient. But a closer or humectants. store shelves are filled with look at the label could reveal that S different shampoos and con- there is less than 1% of that ingredi-  Preservative—Typically ditioners, each promising fuller, brighter, ent included in the product. So what parabens, phenoxyethanol, shinier, softer, straighter, curlier, or really makes up your hair care formula? methylisothiazolinone, and smoother locks. And the list of ingredi- And what makes it good or bad? sodium benzoate to prevent ents can leave you even more puzzled. The first step is to understand the product from growing Some hair care products pro- that the US Food and Drug mold and bacteria. mote a specific ingredient that will Administration does not regulate miraculously transform your hair; cosmetics the same way it regulates

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Copyright Cosmetic Dermatology 2012. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the prior written permission of the Publisher. r LABEL WISE

coal tar are useful for dandruff, scalp psoriasis, and seborrheic dermatitis. If you have a sensitive scalp, look for ammonium lauryl sulfate and ammonium laureth sulfate as ingredients; they tend to be easier on the scalp than sodium lauryl sulfate. Seals and Certifications Some manufacturers who use natural ingredients have chosen to carry seals granted by a variety of organizations. Many of these guidelines mirror those established by the US Department of Agriculture for organic food. Understanding exactly what different seals and certifications mean will help you discern among many of the natural claims. Some claims on product labels include the terms Natural, 100% Natural, All Natural, Made With Natural Ingredients, food and drugs. However, regulations example, body- or Made From Natural do address how the ingredients are building shampoos Ingredients. Consult the listed on labels. Be prepared to quickly contain proteins that bond official Web site describing identify key active ingredients and to the hair to increase volume, often the seal to fully understand the concentrations that will work best for swelling the hair shaft, and replenish- terminology to be able to make your hair type or scalp condition. ing shampoos made for chemically an informed decision on your treated or damaged hair contain gentler hair care products. The Ordered List detergents or ingredients intended to Because even natural ingredi- Federal regulations require that cos- preserve color or repair split ends. ents may cause scalp reactions, just as metics, including hair care products Medicated shampoos intended their chemical counterparts, it is good (natural or otherwise), must be labeled to treat dandruff, scalp psoriasis, to keep your eye on those labels. The with ingredients in descending order or seborrheic dermatitis may con- best way to examine hair products of their quantity in the product. tain ingredients such as salicylic is to note the condition of your hair Most shampoos, for example, contain acid to loosen skin flakes; coal tar and scalp after each use. Is your hair the same base ingredients: Each is com- to slow overproduction of skin cells dry? Is your scalp itchy? If you notice prised of 80% to 90% water with 2% to to reduce flakes and decrease itch- a more severe reaction to a particular 8% detergents and foaming agents and ing and inflammation; or selenium ingredient or product, or your scalp approximately 1% fragrance and preser- sulfide, zinc pyrithione, ketoconazole, condition gets worse, talk with your vatives. The other agents in the formu- or ciclopirox to reduce yeast growth dermatologist who can help you pick lation provide a particular benefit; for on the scalp. Shampoos containing the safest and most effective product. 

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Copyright Cosmetic Dermatology 2012. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the prior written permission of the Publisher. GoingUsing Ingredients From Natural Mother Nature

onsumers have become nourishing component of aloe vera more interested in juice makes it a perfect ingredient purchasing natural and for products aimed at repairing Do-it-yourself Treatments organic products that overly heated and chemically treated Some of the natural ingredients they think are better for their overall hair. It also acts as an astringent to that can be used on our hair can be personal health and friendlier to reduce oily buildup. Wheat protein found at home, making it possible to theC environment. But what does helps prevent damage from combing do-it-yourself. For example, coconut it mean when you see the words by smoothing the surface of the oil is one of the best natural oils for natural and organic on the label? hair. Arnica (from Arnica montana) hair. Regularly massaging coconut Are those products really better than can be found in hair tonics and oil into the scalp and hair as a their conventional alternatives? antidandruff products and is known prewash conditioner can nourish and Generally, products with natural for its antibacterial and antifungal restore damaged hair and also pro- ingredients are considered less tect it from chemical, sun, and heat irritating because they avoid the use Look for these natural damage. The oil coats the hair shaft, of unnecessary chemical additives, ingredients to combat some preventing water absorption and pro- where possible, in favor of herb of the main hair problems: tecting the cuticle during combing. or plant-based ingredients. Many  Damaged Hair Olive oil has rich moisturizing chemical ingredients can strip the Macadamia oil, sweet properties, making it ideal for adding hair of its natural oils, making it almond oil, wheat protein softness, manageability, and shine. more vulnerable to damage. Natural  Dry Hair It can be used as a conditioner, hot- ingredients can cleanse without Aloe vera juice, apricot oil treatment, or hairstyling aid. A drying or stripping the hair; they kernel oil, avocado oil, mixture of olive oil, honey, and also can protect, moisturize, and glycerin, jojoba oil beeswax may improve conditions balance the pH level of the hair and  Dull Hair such as scalp psoriasis and dermatitis. scalp, which is beneficial consider- Citric acid Shea butter, which comes from the ing the damage we inflict on our  Frizzy Hair nut of the shea tree, has a unique hair. The following ingredients from Keratin, shea blend of unsaponifiables, which Mother Nature are just some to look butter, silicone provides natural UV protection. for when scanning store shelves  Scalp Conditions As the naturals market continues for shampoos and conditioners. Aloe vera, Arnica to evolve, researchers are learning montana, biotin, caffeine, more about the therapeutic benefits Natural Ingredients chamomile, olive oil, sesame that Mother Nature has to offer. Avocado oil, high in vitamins B and oil, zinc pyrithione Remember that not every product E, is believed to have skin healing  Thin Hair with added naturals has medicinal and soothing properties and can be Panthenol, sesame oil value and that you can experience found in a number of hair products irritation from one of these products, to support hair growth. Tea tree oil properties. Powder extracts of just like any other hair product. Just comes from the evergreen leaves of ligustrum, which comes from the because an ingredient is natural the Australian Melaleuca alternifolia berries of the privet tree, can be does not mean it is nonallergenic tree and is known for antibacterial found in products for supporting hair nor does it mean that these prod- and antifungal properties that growth as well as those for treating ucts are better than those with may help fight dandruff. Products premature graying due to its ability approved chemical ingredients. containing jojoba oil aim to balance to help prevent damage to cells that Stay vigilant to how you respond the amount of oil produced by the cause color change and hair loss. to any product. If you experience scalp, seal in moisture, cleanse Also look for products with allergen- an allergic reaction, inflammation, pores, and dissolve hair follicle free fragrances that are composed or irritation from any new scalp blockages that may lead to hair of naturally derived ingredients product, stop using it and see your loss and support hair growth. The such as plants and fruits. dermatologist for evaluation. 

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Copyright Cosmetic Dermatology 2012. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the prior written permission of the Publisher. he combination of envi- T ronmental stressors, such as sun, cold weather, and air pollution, and our own hairstyling routines can take a toll on our hair. But staying on top of what you expose your hair to and how you treat it will minimize future damage and lay the foundation for healthy, strong, and lustrous hair. Seasonal Stress Your hair and scalp need year-round care. Dull, brittle, or frizzy hair, and can include dry brittle hair, split ends, scalp, feeding off blood. The bites can a dry flaky scalp, may be exacerbated faded color, frizz, thinning hair, and cause the scalp to become itchy and by cold, dry, or windy air. Try switch- a flaky scalp. Protect your scalp from inflamed. Head lice are most common ing your routine according to the sunburn by wearing a wide-brimmed in children and spread through direct season and opt for hydrating cleans- hat to block sun exposure. Leave-in contact with contaminated people ers and deeper conditioners free of conditioners containing zinc oxide and personal belongings. Dandruff alcohol, sulfates, and silicones. Take may help protect any loose hair from typically is associated with flaky skin care as you bundle up too. Opt for a sun damage and discoloration. trapped among hair strands and dust- hat made with a soft weave to reduce ing your shoulders. It results from a breakage from taking it on and off. Irritating Indications medical condition. At times, product In warmer months (or for those Intense itching may be a sign of buildup can cause fine flakes in the who live in warmer climates year- an infection, such as head lice, or a hair that look similar to dandruff. round), sun damage to both the scalp medical condition, such as dandruff. Both head lice and dandruff and hair can occur with too much Both are common problems. Head typically can be treated using UV exposure. Signs of sun damage lice are tiny insects that inhabit the over-the-counter medicated

14 HEALTHY SKIN & HAIR / FEBRUARY 2012 WWW.COSDERM.COM

Copyright Cosmetic Dermatology 2012. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the prior written permission of the Publisher. STAYING ON TOP r

shampoos. For resistant cases of lice, skin. Symptoms include patches experience noticeable hair loss a your doctor may prescribe an oral of itchy, scaly, inflamed skin. To few months after giving birth due medication. Resistant cases of scal- steer clear of these afflictions, those to the substantial physiologic stress ing of the scalp may be due to more with sensitive skin may want to from childbirth. Because this form serious medical conditions that can avoid common irritants, including of hair loss usually is short lived, be diagnosed by your dermatologist fragrances, hair colorants, and hair growth should return to nor- and controlled using a prescription- chemical styling agents. mal by the child’s first birthday, as strength shampoo or topical agent. long as the trigger of the hair loss Allergic or irritant contact derma- Product Predicaments is removed. The dramatic change of titis can result from any number of Even with regular shampooing, hormone levels during menopause ingredients in your hair care products. hairstyling products and condition- also can lead to hair loss in women. Allergic contact dermatitis occurs ers can buildup over time, leading Alopecia areata is hair loss that when you have an allergic reaction to dull hair and dandruff as well results from an autoimmune dis- to 1 or more ingredients. Typically as an oily irritated scalp. To curb ease in which the immune system you will experience redness, itch- these potential problems, use a mistakenly attacks hair follicles. It ing, and hives. Because shampoos clarifying shampoo once a week. is characterized by round patches run down your body as your hair is Because clarifying shampoos tend of complete baldness. Sometimes rinsed, remember that reactions are to use stronger cleansers, more the hair grows back spontaneously. not limited to the scalp. A reaction regular use can irritate your scalp. If persistent hair loss occurs, a trip can appear anywhere on the body, to the dermatologist can help to though the scalp, face, eyes, ears, lips, Handling Hair Loss identify prescription treatments. and neck are the most common sites. In general, it is normal to lose 50 to Underlying medical conditions Irritant contact dermatitis is 100 hairs every day. Hair loss can such as thyroid disease, anemia, and more common than allergic con- be gradual or it can be sudden and trichotillomania (the impulse to pull tact dermatitis and results when a extreme. Gradual hair loss is more out your own hair) can result in hair harsh substance damages the likely due to heredity and is the most loss, as well as severe fungal infec- common cause of hair loss. About tions. Emotional or physical stress 80 million men and women in from a major surgery, high fever, the United States experience severe infection, or even the flu can hereditary hair loss. Men push growing hair into a resting may notice a receding phase, making hair loss possible hairline or hair loss on when simply combing or wash- the top of the head. ing your hair. Low protein or iron, Women tend to excessive vitamin A, or weight loss keep their hairline and some prescription medications but will notice also can cause hair loss. Because thinning over there are many causes, the key is the front and to seek treatment as soon as you top of the scalp. begin to notice excessive loss. Overstyling, Staying on top of what ails your illness, diet, scalp will help you pinpoint ways to medicine, or prevent further damage. Handle hormone fluc- your hair with care and seek advice tuations can lead from a dermatologist for sudden or to sudden hair extreme symptoms that might be loss. Many women signs of more serious conditions. 

To print, download, or send to a friend, cosderm.com go to

WWW.COSDERM.COM FEBRUARY 2012 / HEALTHY SKIN & HAIR 15

Copyright Cosmetic Dermatology 2012. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the prior written permission of the Publisher. glycerin based can help to organize your curls, reduce frizz, and protect the hair by adding moisture. Get regular haircuts or trims. When hair is damaged, get a good- quality haircut.

Color of the Future We have been highlighting, color swapping, and covering up the gray for many decades, but we are still using the same approach to hair coloring as was used 150 years ago. What can we expect in the future? Color that lasts longer, looks more natural, and is safer. Researchers are currently working to develop nanosized colorants, which will more easily penetrate the hair and remain inside for longer-lasting color. Geneticists are working on gene therapy that could reverse the gray by stimulating genes to pro- duce melanin. Whether it is a more effective product or one that gives your genes a jolt, we can expect new innovative approaches to color TrendThe Inside Track on SpottingTaking Care of Your Hair that will take care of our hair. Stressed Out Tresses aking healthy hair Wash the right way. Does stress affect hair loss? In beautiful sometimes Shampoo the scalp and some cases it can affect hair loss. calls for a few tricks allow the shampoo to run Physiologic stress can cause hair of the trade. For through the length of the hair rather loss. Examples of this kind of those who experience hair thin- than scrubbing the hair. Condition physiologic stress include weight ning, we look to the experts for the ends of the hair and work your loss, surgery, general anesthesia, Mtips and new research to pave way up rather than beginning at the major infections, or other systemic the way for future innovations. scalp. Most of us habitually begin disease. Treatment of this kind of with the scalp, which can create hair loss is to remove the underlying A Matter of Routine a false indication of dirty hair and cause. Only the limited effective- Your hair is nonliving and does lead to washing too frequently. You ness of standard hair-restoration not heal itself once damaged. also may not be getting the condi- remedies have been available to To improve the appearance tioner where you really need it: in treat stress-related hair loss, but of your hair, remember these the length and ends of the hair. researchers are now looking at tips and think about how they Give your hair a break. new ways to address the issue. can influence your routine. Forego the hairdryer, As we continue to find new ways Don’t overclean your flat iron, and/or hot roll- to style our hair, there will be a need hair. You do not want ers once per week, and let your for new recommendations to protect to strip your hair of its locks rest. Embrace a more natural it. Be aware of what you are putting natural oils, so wash your hair hairstyle, especially if you have on your hair and change your daily when it is dirty. If you have oily ethnic hair, to avoid hairstyling regimen if needed.  hair, you may wash your hair more techniques that may cause break- often than someone with finer age or hair loss. For highly textured To print, download, or send to a or drier hair. hair, products that are silicone or friend, go to www.cosderm.com

16 HEALTHY SKIN & HAIR / FEBRUARY 2012 WWW.COSDERM.COM

Copyright Cosmetic Dermatology 2012. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the prior written permission of the Publisher. The ﬁ rst step for better dandruff control

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