Mca Ice Climbing Festival

PARTICIPANT PACKET MCA ICE CLIMBING FESTIVAL

This document was developed to provide participants in the MCA Ice Climbing Festival with a safe and enjoyable climbing experience. We encourage all participants to read the following pages and to follow the procedures, rules and guidelines herein. You should take this packet with you to the MCA Ice Climbing Festival! If you have any questions about the information contained in this packet contact the MCA Ice Climbing Festival Coordinator.

Table of Contents

Course Goals...... 1 Contacts...... 1 Schedule...... 2 Operations...... 3 Camping...... 3 Communications...... 3 Climbing on the Glacier...... 4 Saturday Evening...... 4 Required Equipment for Ice Climbing Festival Participants...... 5 Rules for Participants in the MCA Ice Climbing Festival...... 7

Course Goals According to the MCA bylaws, the purposes of the Mountaineering Club of Alaska include: promoting the enjoyment of hiking, climbing and exploration of the mountains, cultivation of mountain climbing skills and techniques, teaching and encouraging mountain safety, assisting in the prevention of waste and unnecessary destruction of the natural scene. The goals of the MCA Ice Climbing Festival are:

 To learn useful and safe techniques for climbing ice in alpine and waterfall environments.  To learn to use modern climbing tools in order to insure maximum safety and speed.  To learn and practice all of the basic state of the art rope management techniques, with emphasis on skills most useful for winter ice climbing.  To learn to belay a leader with mechanical devices and non-assisted or traditional technique.  To learn to build safe anchor systems, regardless of terrain or conditions.

Contacts If you have any questions, or for some reason cannot make it to the glacier as planned on Saturday or Sunday, please contact one of the festival coordinators as soon as possible.

Ice Climbing Festival Coordinator(s): Jayme Mack : 907-382-0212(cell), [email protected] Schedule The MCA Ice Climbing Festival will be held Sept. 22nd, 23rd and 24th, 2017 at the Glacier Park Resort near the Matanuska Glacier. Instructors and participants are encouraged to arrive on Friday evening due to the early start on Saturday. However, this is not mandatory. It is up to participants to make it to the glacier by the appropriate time Saturday morning to begin the class. Participants should plan to leave Anchorage no later than 6 a.m. Saturday to arrive by 9:00 a.m. to meet with their instructional group. The following is the basic schedule that will be followed for the MCA Ice Climbing Festival.

Tues, Sept 19, 7:00 p.m. BP Energy Center-- Mandatory meeting for participants (bring your boots, crampons and harness for inspection)

Fri, Sept 22nd: MCA HQ established at Campsite 9 3/4, Matanuska Glacier Park sometime after 6pm. Sat, Sept 23rd: 8:30-9:00 a.m. Instructors check-in with Onsite Coordinator at Glacier Park hut (glacier parking lot), brief and pick up group gear. 9:00-9:30 a.m. Assemble at toe of glacier parking lot, check in at GP hut, meet instructor, gear check, rules, etc. 9:30-4:30 p.m. Instruction on glacier. 4:30 p.m. Begin heading back to parking lot 5:00 p.m. Arrive at parking lot, post-instruction debrief with your group, collect group gear. Instructors sign off the glacier with Onsite Coordinator. Check- in group gear (ropes), Black Diamond, AMH Technical Ice Tools at GP hut to be stored and dried. Debrief with On-site Coordinator. 8:00 p.m. Bonfire

Sun, Sept 24th: 9:00-9:30 a.m. Groups assemble at toe of glacier parking lot unless an alternative time has been set by instructor group, sign in, gear check, rules, etc. 9:30-4:00 p.m. Instruction on glacier 4:00 p.m. Begin heading back to parking lot (if you haven't already) 4:30 p.m. Arrive at parking lot, conduct post-instruction debrief with your group, collect group gear. Instructors sign off the glacier with Onsite Coordinator. Check-in radio, ropes, BD gear, MCA gear and AMH ice tools to GP Hut. 5:00 p.m. Last call!! Head for home. Operations

Camping This year, the MCA Ice Climbing Festival will be based out of campsites #9 3/4 in the open field by the river and closer to the toe of the glacier. After passing through the gate follow the main road. Turn right at the signs for MCA Ice Fest. If you get to the glacier parking lot you went to far. The campground is approximately 1.5 miles from the main lodge. Plan to set up your campsite in this general vicinity. DO NOT PARK ON THE MAIN ROAD OR OBSTRUCT EITHER LANE OF TRAVEL ON THE ACCESS ROAD. PARK IN THE OPEN AREAS OFF THE ROAD.

There are 2 outhouses at the campsite. There is no potable water, hook-ups or electricity. Many participants tent, while a few sleep in cars or bring RV’s.

Headquarters will become operational sometime after 6 p.m. on Friday evening, Sept. 22nd. One central bonfire will be established near the main MCA campsite on Saturday evening.

This year, the MCA will have a designated Onsite Coordinator and a Medical Officer at the Ice Climbing Festival.

Onsite Coordinators: Jayme Mack Medical Officer: 212th Para-rescue Unit

The Onsite Coordinator(s) will be responsible for making sure that group leaders sign in prior to taking their group on the glacier and sign out when their group comes off the glacier. The Onsite Coordinator(s) (and assistants) will also be responsible for checking out MCA gear to group leaders and making sure that gear is returned. During Saturday and Sunday while groups are on the glacier, an Onsite Coordinator(s) will be stationed at the parking lot at the toe of the glacier or on the glacier itself and serve as the "MCA Base" radio in the event of an emergency. The Onsite Coordinator(s) will also be responsible for reminding instructors and participants of festival rules for safe climbing during the event. The Onsite Coordinator(s) will be "off-duty" from 9 p.m. Saturday evening to 8 a.m. Sunday morning. However, if there is an emergency, the Onsite Coordinator and Medical Officer should be notified immediately.

The Medical Officer will arrange the necessary gear and assisting personnel for medical emergencies. He/she will be responsible for responding to any medical injuries of a serious nature and will take charge of medical emergencies and evacuations from the glacier. Medical Officers will have a radio. It is responsibility of instructors to notify the On-site Coordinator (“MCA Base”) of any injuries. The On-site Coordinator will request assistance from the Medical Officer if a medical emergency arises. If you cannot contact the On-site Coordinator, contact the Medical Officer directly.

Communications Each instruction group will be assigned an Motorola FRS radio to maintain contact with MCA Base and as means to contact the Medical Officer and Onsite Coordinator in the event of an emergency. Each group will also have a unique call-number (e.g., Group #1, Group#2, etc.) so that the Onsite Coordinator/Medical Officer can know which group he/she is talking to at any given time. Climbing on the Glacier Your instructor is responsible for finding a suitable location on the glacier to practice the skills he/she plans to teach to your group. It is important to note that there are many water features on the glacier that have cut-off access to areas suitable for climbing in previous years. DO NOT SET UP CLIMBING AREAS ABOVE WATER FEATURES WHERE A SLIP, TRIP, OR FALL COULD RESULT IN A FALL INTO THE WATER! We are not equipped to perform a rescue from the water.

In addition, it is important to remember that each person learns at a different pace. If you find that you are having difficulty with a particular skill, please let your instructor know and ask for additional help or practice. If you learn relatively quickly or know some of the skills already, help others learn the skill(s) in your group. If you are frustrated with the level of instruction in your group, let your instructor know and he/she will attempt to find additional challenges or skills to practice. Be patient. If you feel the level of instruction is too high or too low in your group, contact the Onsite Coordinators Saturday evening and an attempt will be made to re- assign you to another group if there is a slot available. In most cases, it is better to stick with your original group since each group will be learning at a different pace.

AT NO TIME ARE PARTICIPANTS ALLOWED TO LEAVE THEIR ASSIGNED GROUP AND CLIMB ON THEIR OWN! IF YOU MUST LEAVE YOUR GROUP FOR ANY REASON, ASK YOUR INSTRUCTOR TO CONTACT THE ONSITE COORDINATOR FOR AN ESCORT OFF THE GLACIER. ALL PERSONS LEAVING AN INSTRUCTIONAL GROUP WILL BE REQUIRED TO “SIGN-OUT” FROM THE GROUP BEFORE LEAVING.

Saturday Evening From 9 p.m., Saturday, the 23rd to 8 a.m. Sunday morning, you are essentially on your own and responsible for your own behavior. MCA wants people to have fun and enjoy the evening’s festivities. Please do so in a safe manner. Persons under the legal drinking age are reminded that under-age drinking is not allowed. Parents and guardians who bring persons under the age of eighteen (18) to the Festival are reminded that they are responsible for the safety of those persons and for making sure that they abide by Festival rules. DRIVING DIRECTIONS

From Anchorage: Take Hwy 1 (Glenn Highway) North out of Anchorage approximately 34 miles. Take the State HWY 1 E exit towards Palmer. Merge onto AK-1N/Glenn HWY/State HWY 1N. Go through Palmer (THESE ARE YOUR LAST GROCERY STORE AND RESTURANTS). Pass through Sutton, Chickalon (LAST GAS STATION UNTIL EUREKA) until milepost 102. Take a right at the Glacier Park Resort access sign. You should see a small gift store at the entrance to the driveway. Travel down the dirt road, over the wooden bridge and you will see a large white building with gates blocking further access. The campsite is 1.5 miles from the lodge on your right. Follow the signs.

CHECK-IN

If you drive up Friday evening before dark check in at the white lodge (Glacier Park Resort), if its open. Once you check-in pass through the gates. After dark the gate will be open and the lodge closed, if this is the case please check in Saturday morning at the Glacier Park hut in the glacier parking lot no later than 9am. Please be packed and ready to go, as you will meet your group at 9am, in the glacier parking lot. The parking lot is approximately 1 mile from the campsite. If arriving in the morning Saturday please check-in at the main lodge, if open, otherwise check in at the Glacier hut in the glacier parking lot no later than 9am.

Equipment for Ice Climbing Festival Participants

REQUIRED EQUIPMENT:

Ice axe - your basic alpine tool and required for going on glacier. Most useful in 55 cm to 60 cm range but taller climbers or those who primarily climb snow will prefer a 70 cm axe. This is different than a technical ice climbing tool. (Required for novice climbers)

Crampons - rigid 12-point are the best choice for ice climbing. NO STRAP-ON CRAMPONS ALLOWED!!!

Helmet - a must for everyone on the ice: ice hurts and you only have one head! Must be rated for climbing, no bicycle or ski helmets allowed.

Boots - double plastic or mountaineering leather. Plastic boots are the warmest. Leather boots which are insulated, crampon compatible and have at least a ¾ shank are acceptable.

Harness – Recommend an adjustable harness, especially leg loops that drop down to relieve yourself. Most modern styles have this capacity.

Belay Device: Reverso, Jaws, ATC, figure-8 or other type of friction device for belaying.

Carabiners - you must have at least one large, locking “pear-shaped” carabiner for belaying. Two is recommended.

Backpack - a must for everyone. Must be able to carry all of your personal gear for the day. Recommend at least one with a capacity of 3,000 cubic inches. Glacier glasses/sunglasses/goggles: If it is a bright sunny day, your eyes will appreciate it! Plan on something to protect your eyes!

Optional Equipment: (If you have these, bring them, but you can borrow from others or rent gear from AMH)

Ice Tools: Specialized tools for steep water ice climbing having curved or re-curved picks with serrated teeth for maximum holding power in most ice conditions. A great variety is available, so try to use as many styles as possible to find the tool that best suits your style. Best in the 45 cm to 55 cm range. This is not the same as a Ice Axe.

Ice Screws – if you have them. Pound-in and screw-in types will be available for testing.

Suggested Clothing Systems for the Winter Alpine/Ice Climbing Environment: The clothing system should layer well and be adaptable to a variety of uses and temperatures. Strive to use the minimum amount necessary to reduce both weight and bulk.

Basic layering principles suggest a 3-layer system. The first layer, closest to your body consists of a moisture wicking material such as capilene or wool. Base layers come in different weights, midweight base layers are ideal for the winter environment. The second layer is consists of a fleece or soft shell layer. The final outer layer blocks the wind and is waterproof. These layering principles can be used for all of the body, hands, feet, torso and legs.

Socks – One thin liner sock and one thicker outer sock are really popular. This system helps prevent blisters and keeps your feet dry. If you sweat a lot bring spare pairs to change into. Have a dry set for each day.

Legs – Base layer: poly or capilene long johns in various thicknesses. Mid-layer: fleece or soft shell pants. Outer-layer: Waterproof and windproof pants are best. *Insulated down or synthetic over pants are also recommended for colder temperatures.

Torso – Base layer: capilene or wool tops in various weights. Mid-layer: fleece or soft shell jacket. Outer-layer: Waterproof/windproof coat. Hoods are recommended. *A hooded belay jacket (down or synthetic) is highly recommended.

Gloves – Bring several pairs of mid to lightweight gloves. The glacier ice can be quite wet. Windstopper or soft shell gloves are popular. A thin liner with a lightweight shell is also common.

Hats/Balaclava – Close fitting is best. A helmet liner is suggested.

Gaiters – usually recommended for keeping the elements out of your boots. Also, helpful in protecting pants from crampon points. Rules for Participants in the MCA Ice Climbing Festival

All persons participating in the MCA Ice Climbing Skills Courses at the MCA Ice Climbing Festival must abide by the following rules to ensure their safety and the safety of other participants and their instructors. Failure to abide by these rules will result in removal from the course.

General Rules:

1. Be prepared to spend the entire day on the glacier by having the appropriate clothing, technical gear (helmet, harness, ice axe, crampons, climbing boots, etc.), as well as a foam pad and sufficient food and water. 2. Follow the instructions and recommendations of your instructor. If you have a safety concern or feel unsafe, tell your instructor and work it out with him/her and your group. 3. Be courteous to other group members. Not everyone has the same level of skills and it is not possible to provide 1-to-1 instruction all the time. 4. If you are uncertain how to do something, ask your instructor to show you again--Don't be afraid to ask! 5. Help others learn. 6. Eat regularly and drink lots of fluids to stay hydrated. 7. If you get cold or sustain an injury while climbing, notify your instructor immediately.

On the glacier:

1. Helmets are required and will be put on at the parking lot. They must be worn at all times while on the glacier. 2. Each person is responsible for his/her own safety and for the safety of others in your group. 3. All persons (including instructor) must have an ice axe or ice tool in hand when traveling on the glacier. 4. Watch for tripping hazards and hazardous moulins (vertical shafts/watercourses caused by meltwater/rock). 5. Stay with the group and do not go off alone. (If you need to urinate, let someone know you will be stepping away from the group temporarily). 6. Ice climbing for all novice, beginner and intermediate groups will be by top-rope only. No lead climbing is allowed by students in the Advanced group unless a person is practicing leading and is belayed by a second rope attached to an equalized anchor system that is backed up by another equalized anchor system; supervised by an instructor. 7. Scrambling on ice slopes or climbing un-roped is NOT permitted except under the direction or supervision of your instructor. 8. All climbers will tie-in directly to their harness with a re-woven figure-8 knot with an appropriate backup knot (single or double fisherman). 9. Prior to climbing, check to make sure that your harness is properly rigged and double check your tie-in knot prior to each climb. If your instructor or assistant does not double-check your knot ASK HIM/HER TO DO SO! 10. WHILE BELAYING, NEVER TAKE YOUR HAND OFF THE BRAKE LINE. If you are unsure of your belayer, ask for a back-up belay. 11. Belayer must always watch their climber and stay focused on their movements. BE READY TO CATCH A FALL AT ALL TIMES. 12. The instructor will determine who is competent to belay and will provide a back-up belayer if he/she considers it necessary. All primary belayers will be anchored to an ice screw. 13. DO NOT STEP ON THE ROPE OR ANCHOR WEBBING. If you do, notify the instructor so the item can be inspected. 14. DO NOT HIT YOUR TOP ROPE WITH YOUR ICE TOOL WHILE CLIMBING. A rope under tension can be severed very easily. If you hit the rope with your ice tool while climbing, notify your instructor immediately. 15. Use proper commands for roped climbing as taught by your instructor ("On belay--belay on", "Climbing--Climb on", "Ready to Lower--Lower On"). To ensure safety and prevent confusion with other rope teams, all commands will be prefaced with the belayer/climber's name (e.g., "John, On Belay?" -- "Wendy, Belay On."). If you are unsure that your belayer heard your command. Repeat the command sequence. 16. Report all injuries or accidents to your instructor as soon as possible. 17. If you borrow gear from the MCA or other participants at the festival, it is your responsibility to return the gear to its owner at the end of each climbing day. All MCA and BD gear needs to be turned in Sunday upon check-out from the glacier. 18. Mark your own climbing gear with tape, marker, or engraver for easy identification.

After each Instruction Day:

1. Let your instructor know if you have any injuries 2. Set an example and be a responsible party go-er during Saturday night's festivities. Heavily intoxicated students do not instill confidence in their fellow students. If you have a hang- over Sunday morning, you will not be allowed on the glacier.