Alicante Bouschet

THE HISTORY: In 1824, Louis Bouschet crossed Aramon with an ancient red-juiced vinifera variety, Teinturier du Cher, naming the resulting grape Petit Bouschet. In 1865, Louis' son Henri continued his on father's path, crossing Petit Bouschet with Grenache to create Alicante Bouschet…in effect a double hybrid. In most grapes the anthocyanin pigments responsible for color are confined to the outer skin tissue and the juice of even the most dark-skinned grape varieties is clear. Alicante Bouschet is different, being one of a handful of varietals where anthocyanin pigments accumulate within the pulp of the berry itself. These varietals which can only be made into a red wine regardless of skin contact time are called Teinturier [tan-tewr-EHR] by the French, a term meaning to dye or stain. It was Alicante’s color enhancing quality that induced European winemakers to use it primarily as a blending partner for lighter colored wines. In the United States, Alicante’s Bouschet reached the height of its popularity during the Prohibition Era; when it was planted heavily in California for export to the East Coast. Alicante’s thick skin made it resistant to rot during the long cross country railroad trek and the intense red color allowed the bootlegger or home wine maker to get a second or third vintage by just adding sugar and water. By the 1930s, Alicante accounted for a third of all grape production in California. Eighty years later, with Prohibition long since repealed, this native of southern France has largely fallen from favor. Currently it now accounts for roughly 1% of California’s grape total.

THE GRAPE: Alicante Bouschet, known by over 55 synonyms worldwide, is a very productive varietal that buds and ripens early. Unchecked, it can bear crops as large as 12 tons per acre and must be controlled to prevent its tendency to over crop. The Vine is also prone to diseases like anthracnose and downy mildew. In addition to red pulp and vibrantly colored juice, Alicante has thick tough skins which contribute boatloads of harsh tannins if the winemaker isn’t cautious in his approach. Teinturier grapes are notoriously difficult to turn into wines of “merit” because of the challenge of balancing a heavily-tannic juice to the proper acidity level, especially in climates that are too warm (producing not enough acid) or too cool (producing too much acid). But when you do get that perfect balance, its absolute magic and a highly drinkable wine. The Bodegas of Alentejo in south-central Portugal use Alicante as the primary grape of their high end blends, producing rich wines characterized with light spice, rich red and black fruits, and a long complex finishes.

THE STYLE: In California, Alicante-Bouschet can make a big complex wine with a deep dark blackish purple hue and when done right, a full-body wine with a structure that is slightly tannic but with balanced acidity. The wines are quite attractive aromatically and can exude aromas of currants, leather and spice. Luxuriously rich fruit flavors of raspberries and blackberries are tinged with Vanilla from the Oak and the finish can be one of gentle earthiness.

FOODS: Similar to all big reds, Alicante Bouschet goes best with your classic grilled steak, lamb chops, or any marbled cut, as the fat in the meat will tone down the tannin in the wine. A perfect coupling would be sausages especially a spicy, fennel-laced grilled Italian sausage, perhaps dressed up with some sautéed onions, peppers, red sauce, and a touch of mozzarella. The fresh acidity in a marinara is going to cut through a wine that big nicely. Another quality choice would be a subtle and slightly sweeter Cincinnati-style chili. Not Texas-style chili but a mellower chili with more balanced, nuanced spices. Venison can be another excellent choice.

TASTING NOTES:

2004 - ______

2005 -______

2006 -______

2008 -______