The Palace of the Playboy

The Palace of the Playboy by Libero Paci

from the newspaper, Il Messaggero (The Messenger) 7 April 1987

The history of a salvageable corner dwelling located on Via Matteotti (in the town of Macerata located in the province of Abruzzi, Italy). The dwelling was formerly known as the Mount of Mercy. It is also the story of the heartache of its owner, Signore P. Mozzi.

In truth, in the strictest sense of the word, this dwelling cannot be called a palace. The reason for this is that only one small corner of the “palace” was ever constructed. But even in this unstately condition, it would well be worth saving. The dwelling in question is located in an area known as Mount Piety. It faces Via Matteotti, and can be found at the corner of a small passageway, Ulissi Alley. The present condition of the dwelling is owed to a series of unfortunate circumstances.

Around 1570, Pompeo Mozzi was heir to the great holdings of a merchant named Bartolotto. As was the custom at that time, he wanted demonstrate his economic power to his fellow townsmen. He would build a palace that would be grander than that of Camillo Rotelli, Treasurer of the Italian Province of Marche. Rotelli’s palace was designed by Pellegrino Tibaldi and can now be found on the western corner of what is now the Bank of Italy. Mozzi, too, probably hired Tibaldi to design his palace. So began the construction of the Mozzi palace which was to extend as far as what is now known as Ferri Alley.

The good upstart Mozzi thought that he could further impress the people of Macerata by going to Rome and living the life of a playboy. In the capitol, however, he fell victim to the charms of various “courtesans of honor,” among them Madame Scarratona, Fiammetta (the little flame), Camilla from Pisa, Beatrice from Ferraraa, and the Spanish Maddalena. Without protest they elegantly managed to pick him over. Broke and suffering from a broken heart, our poor Pompeo forgot all about the former love of his heart, the stone palace back in Macerata. His character had led him into all kinds of erotic activities which led to the inevitable economic problems. The creditors swarmed like hawks. A so-called Colletta garnished the building and in 1635 it was sold to the noble Ulissi family. The last in the line of Ulissi’s the parson Antonio, in 1717 bequeathed the palace and his remaining fortune to a foundation which was called “Mount Piety Ulissi.”

As it is noted, with the Unification of Italy in 1860 the administration of the Mount was turned over to the Charity congregation. This pious organization, more in tune to economic as opposed to the artistic concerns, around 1906 gutted the building turning it into rental appartments. Fortunately the renovators ‘forgot’ the notable precious lined ceiling, the work of Capitali and Nardelli Lignarii 1500th century masters.

But then came the smog ruining the sandstone decorations already fragile and crumbling due to age. The palace (if we can call it such) now finds itself in a state of serious decay. Can it be restored? One of the highest authorities, who in other occasions has shown the utmost respect for history, will say not. More and more I feel like repeating the old religious saying, Sede vacante nihili innovetur” (Vacant places don’t lead to innovation). But its only a temptation to believe that the past is past.