Table of Content s2

1 “SRADev Nigeria acknowledges financial support by the Developing World Outreach Initiative (DWOI) through the Occupational Knowledge International and the Northern California Section of American Industrial Hygiene Association (AIHA) for this report. The sole responsibility for the content of this report lies with SRADev Nigeria. The allies mentioned above are not responsible for any use that may be made of information contained therein.”

Table of content

2 Title page List of acronyms 1.0 Background 6 2.0 Introduction 6 2.1 Nigeria hairdressing sector 7 2.2 Justification 7 2.3 Aims and objectives 7 3.0 Methodology 8 3.1 Data collection 9 3.2 Data management 10 4.0 Result and discussion 11 4.1 Questionnaire analysis 11 4.1.1 Demographics 11 4.1.2 Job history of Respondents 14 4.1.3 Perception on the use of chemicals 15 4.1.4 Health effect of chemical use 21 4.1.5 Reduction of chemical exposure 21 4.1.6 Waste management 23 4.1.7 Relationship among variables 24 4.2 Response from observation checklist 27 5.0 Conclusion and recommendation 30 5.1 Recommendations 30 Bibliography

List of figures 3 Figure 1 Flowchart of the project 10 Figure 2 Sex of respondents 13 Figure 3 Educational backgrounds of respondents 13

List of Tables Table 1 Local government area and number of sampled shops 11 Table 2 Demographic variables 12 Table 3 Quantitative demographics 13 Table 4.1 Job history 14 Table 4.2 Quantitative job history variables 15 Table 5 Perception on the activities requiring chemical use 16 Table 6 List of toxic chemical products 16 Table 7 Sources of chemical products 17 Table 8 Label reading habits 17 Table 9 Perceived hotspots on product label 17 Table 10 Would buy product without labels 18 Table 11 Reasons for not buying unlabeled chemical product 18 Table 12 Perception on the forms of chemical used 18 Table 13 Exposure route of chemical agent 19 Table 14 How ventilated workplace is 19 Table 15 Notice of difference in body system 20 Table 16 Health effect chemicals pose 20 Table 17 Reduction of chemical exposure 21 Table 18 How chemical exposure is reduced 22 Table 19 Safety device 22 Table 20 Kind of waste generated 23 Table 21 Waste disposal method adopted 23 Table 22 Waste water disposal method 24 Table 23 Comparing size of workplace and label reading habit 25 Table 24 Relationship between educational background label reading habit 25 Table 25 The relationship between educational background and where respondents purchase chemical products 25 Table 26 Relationship between educational background and 4 perception of chemical toxicity 26

Table 27 Relationship between educational backgrounds and route of chemical exposure 26 Table 28 Relationship between years of work experience and noticed health effect 27 Table 29 Identified chemicals and the products they are found 27 Table 30 Observational checklist response 29

Acronyms and abbreviation NGO Non-governmental organization SRADev Sustainable Research and Action for Environmental Development NASHCO National Association of Hairdressers Barbers and Cosmetologists SPSS Statistical Packages for Social Sciences PPEs Personal Protective Equipment LAWMA Lagos State Waste Management Authority

5 Dba Dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride Pda P-phenylenediamine Gtc glycerol thioglycolate Ap Ammonium per sulfate Em Ethyl methacrylate Ac Acetone An Acetonitrile Ba Butyl Acetate Ea ethyl acetate Ia Isopropyl acetate Ma Methacrylic acid Hg Mercury Hq Hydroquinone

1.0 BACKGROUND In 1950, World Health Organization/International Labour Organization expert committees on Occupational Health and Safety in their first session spelt out the objectives of occupational health which includes promotion and maintenance of the highest degree of physical, mental and social well-being of workers in all occupations. Nigeria has the Workman’s Compensation Ordinance which was replaced by Workman Compensation Decree of 1987. The Factory Act of 1955 was amended in 1958 and later replaced by Factory Decree of 1987 which has not been effective. Till date there is no government institution that statutorily coordinates occupational hygiene and not too many Nigerians understand labour laws, factory laws and workman compensation laws that are meant to ensure the dignity of labour and its security. Many small to medium size industries and enterprises are springing up on daily basis owned by both foreigners and locals but the rights of these workers hardly protected [1].

2.0 INTRODUCTION Workers in beauty salons are exposed to myriad of chemicals [1]. These can be in form of solids like relaxer and cream, liquids like shampoo and nail solvents or gases, hair spray

6 and after shaves. Ingredients of these products required for their activities which cut across hair relaxing, dying, washing, spraying, nail varnishing, adhesives, nail polishing, and disinfecting could pose harmful effect. Both acute and chronic effects have been implicated with the use of cosmetics. The health effects range from irritations of the skin, eye and nose to breathing and reproductive disorders, disruption of immune system and cancers [2- 5].Quach and coworkers observed that a significant fraction reported developing health problems while running their job, especially acute health problems related to the use of solvent (e.g. skin and eye irritation, breathing difficulties and headaches)[6].

Poor access to adequate knowledge on the deleterious effects of chemical agents used in the beauty care industry is a major problem to preventing the health outcomes in this part of the world as the actors were mainly high school leavers. Moreover, high cost of living and rising unemployment level are reasons for proliferation of the beauty industry as well as other industries in Nigeria. The National Association of Hairdressers, Barbers and Cosmetologists (NASHCO) of Nigeria is one sector that is highly unregulated; workers are left at their own detriment.

Salon jobs are low-waged. Most salon workers are contractors renting booths in a salon, or misclassified as contractors (when they should be classified as employees). Hence, they do not have the same benefits or rights of being an employee, such as health care, sick leave, or job security. Moreover, most salon operatives have their highest level of education at the secondary level and as such are limited in their knowledge of English language. This makes it difficult for them to access safety information and a good knowledge of relevant occupational health regulations. Sustainable Research and Action for Environmental Development (SRADev Nigeria), a professional non-governmental organization (focal point for NGOs on chemicals management) conducted a research to assess the occupational health knowledge base of beauty parlour workers. 2.1 THE NIGERIAN HAIRDRESSING SECTOR The hairdressing sector in Nigeria employs more than one million people who work across thousands of hairdressing salons and receive some 150 million potential customers. Hairdressing (and barbering) services, together with beauty treatment, form the personal services sector of the country.

7 The hairdressing trade is dominated by small establishments. On the average, hair salons have about 3-5 workers depending on the size, and are, for the vast majority, run by self- employed hairdressers who often work on their own with or without some dependent employees as apprentice. The share of self-employment in the sector appears to be two to ten times higher than in the whole of the economy. Apart from the sharp rise of micro- businesses run by owner-operators, an expansion in chain and franchise businesses can be noticed in almost every nooks and crannies of the rural, peri-urban and urban areas of the country. Infact, it can be said that the trade can be found thriving in almost every other street or corner shop in Nigeria. Self-employed hairdressers may work in their own salon set up in their home (home-based or domestic hairdressers) or at business premises, but may also work as mobile hairdressers (visiting clients in their homes or place of work, in retirement homes, at fashion shows, weddings, etc.) or rent chairs (or sometimes rooms) at salons owned by someone else. Chair-renters do not have a contract of employment with the salon but a contract based on services provided.

Hairdressing in Nigeria is a predominantly female profession, with over 80% women workers many of whom work full-time and stay in the sector for about 8-hour periods of time per day (SRADev, 2015). The sector is also characterised by a young workforce. About 80 % of recruits are aged under 26 and 56 % are under 19. In some Nigerian cities like Lagos, there have been trends towards the sector being embraced by migrant workers from neighbouring countries, even as apprentices, employees, masters, salon owners, teachers, managers, administrators, professional associations, suppliers, experts etc).

In general, there exist considerable differences in salaries, working conditions and training across the country. Owing to the rather small average size of hairdressing businesses, their average annual turnover is comparatively modest. Pay levels are generally lower than the national average. People working in the sector have commonly mid-range qualifications ranging from ‘secondary education’ and ‘post-secondary non-tertiary education’) (SRADev, 2015). Within the trade union referred to as NASCHO, considerable efforts is been made to raise training standards and the quality of entrants into the profession. Hairdressers, whether as entrepreneurs or co-workers, offer their services to millions of customers every day. A healthy working environment contributes significantly to the success of businesses 8 and is important both for the persons working in the hairdressing trade as well as for the customers. The significant improvement in user-friendliness, quality and safety of mass-marketed products for home use, in particular colouring products, is leading the personal services sector to seek to compete on quality, diversify and develop new niche markets such as health and beauty treatments. The development of hairdressing requires respect for the highest quality standards, for both customers and workers, and requires social and environmental responsibility.

2.3 JUSTIFICATION Salon owners, workers and clienteles do not have sound knowledge of harmful chemicals to avoid and be mindful of in salon products and lack the technical skills or measures to handle and protect themselves against exposure to such endangering chemicals. This group has no organized occupational health service and their adherence to safety measures is unknown. Following the cross-sectional study of beauty salons undertaken by SRADev Nigeria in 2010 on the “Perception Study of Mercury in Cosmetic Products in some areas in Lagos State” it was observed that about 92% of the respondents use cosmetics in form of body cream or hair relaxer, yet quite number of them do not understand health dangers of the chemical constituents of those cosmetics even those that contain mercury and hydroquinone. This national campaign will justify the need for training, awareness raising and advocacy program that will enlighten salon workers on occupational health issues, draw attention of regulatory authorities to occupational exposure/risk of workers in this sector and enforcement standards in the profession, towards putting in place an occupational health and safety regime.

2.4 AIMS AND OBJECTIVES The objectives of this project are to:  raise awareness about harmful chemicals used in salon products, their source of exposure and impact on health and hence galvanize a national regulatory mechanism.

9  empower salon and beauty parlour workers with technical skills on how to prevent and protect themselves against products with harmful constituents and how to integrate these measures and practices into their daily operations.  train them on how to handle and dispose of waste from their operations like hair, nails and used chemical containers.  organize media event with stakeholders and affiliated government ministry to create awareness and sensitize the public with the view of advocating safety regulations among salon workers.  instigate and facilitate policy change in the sector.

3.0 METHODOLOGY

Stakeholder Consultation Meetings

SRADev Nigeria identified and worked with barbers and beauty salon workers under the umbrella trade union of National Association of Hairdressers, Barbers and Cosmetologists (NASHCO) of Nigeria. An initial consultation meeting with the national president Dr. (Mrs.) Elizabeth Ishoka was conveyed on October 19, 2015. This was aimed at introducing SRADev and the proposed project towards achieving their buy-in to the project. Having achieved this, another consultation meeting was brokered at that meeting to enable SRADev team meet with other stakeholders of the association on October 23, 2015. In attendance were the founder of NASHCO Dr. (Mrs.) Osisanya, Legal Adviser, National Secretary, Lagos State chapter President and other delegates. In his opening address, Executive Director of SRADev Nigeria, Mr. Leslie Adogame lauded the executives and members of the union for their keen interest in the project and gave an overview of the components project and benefits to the association. Furthermore, he explained the various activities to be carried out to include data gathering through administration of questionnaires and observation checklist, train the trainer workshop and press release towards advocacy action to relevant government agencies.

In her response, Dr. (Mrs.) Osisanya welcomed SRADev team and gave their support to the laudable project noting that it will be beneficial to the association. Questions were asked

10 concerning the project by members present and they were duly answered by SRADev team. Thereafter, the modalities for data gathering were discussed and the association nominated the national secretary, Mr. Godwin Akpomeran to accompany the project team during the fieldwork to facilitate our access into members’ business premises and also their co- operation.

3.1 Data Collection

The salons and beauty shops were selected by a purposive sampling process from all the 20 local governments in Lagos State. This involved an interviewer administered questionnaire and observational checklist which captured information from their demographics, perception on chemical exposure and preventive measures, health effects associated with chemical use and waste management practices.

11 Figure 1: Flowchart of the project

Project conceptualization

Building a synergy with NASHCO members (meetings)

Data collection

Source: SRADev, Nigeria December, 2015

3.2 Data Management

The data was entered into the computer and analyzed using statistical packages for social sciences (SPSS). Findings from the above activities will be used to formulate modules for the proposed train-the-trainers workshop for salon and beauty parlour workers and other relevant stakeholders. In addition, the findings will be disseminated to the general public at a media press event to create nationwide awareness for advocacy action. 12 4.0 RESULT AND DISCUSSION

At the end of sampling, feedbacks were received from twenty-nine (29) respondents through questionnaires administered across twenty (20) local government areas (LGAs) of Lagos State. The results are discussed in this section of the report.

4.1 Questionnaire analysis 4.1.1 Demographics A total of twenty-nine (29) beauty and barbing salons were purposively sampled from across the 20 local government areas of Lagos State as shown in Table 1. Table 1: Local Government Area and sampled shops Local Government Area (LGA) No. of beauty/barbing salon sampled Percent

Agege 1 3.4 Alimosho 1 3.4 AmowuOdofin 1 3.4 Apapa 1 3.4 Badagry 1 3.4 Epe 1 3.4 Etiosa 2 6.9 IbejuLekki 2 6.9 Ifako/Ijaye 2 6.9 IfelodunAjeromi 2 6.9 Ikeja 2 6.9 Ikorodu 1 3.4 Lagos Island 2 6.9 Lagos Mainland 1 3.4 Mushin 2 6.9

13 Ojo 1 3.4 Oshodi 2 6.9 Oworonsoki 2 6.9 Shomolu 1 3.4 Surulere 1 3.4 Total 29 100.0 Source: SRADev Nigeria 2015

As shown in Table 2 below, the salons were grouped into small, medium and large scale in terms of size. 34.5% of the respondents were from small scale beauty and barbing salons, 51.7% were respondents from medium, while 13.8% respondents were from large scale salons. The age of respondents ranged from 20 to 49 years. Also, 69% of the respondents are married as against 31% representing the number of single respondents as shown in Table 2. Most of the respondents (89.7%) are hair stylists and only a small fraction were barbers (10.3%). They were predominantly Christians (75.9%) and of Yoruba tribe (69%). Table 2: Demographic variable S/N Demographic variable Groups Frequency Percentage

1. Size of the workplace of the Small 10 34.5 Medium 15 51.7 respondents Large 4 13.8 2. Marital status Single 9 31.0 Married 20 69.0 3 Hair stylist 22 89.7 Occupation Barbing 7 10.3 4 Christianity 22 75.9 Religion Islam 7 24.1 5. Yoruba 20 69 Igbo 5 17.2 Hausa 0 0 Tribe Others 4 13.8

Figure 2 Pie chart showing sex of the respondents

14 As shown in Figure 2, the population of female respondents (21) almost tripled that of the male respondents (8).

Table 3: Quantitative demographics S/N Demographic variable Range Mean ± SD 1. Parity 0 - 5 1.7 ± 1.5 2. Monthly income 5000 - 50,000 20000 ± 1200

As shown in Table 3, the mean parity of the respondents was 1.7± 1.5 while the average income (₦) was 20,000 ± 1,200.

Figure 3: Educational background

The educational background as shown in Figure 3 revealed that respondents with secondary education formed the largest number representing 72% of the total sampled. This was four times higher than respondents with primary (14%) and tertiary education (14%).

4.1.2 Job history of Respondents: This include work experience, average time spent at work daily, number of non-customers and the source of knowledge about the profession as shown in Table 4.1 below. About 41.4% of the respondents had more than 10years work experience while a good number had less than 5years work experience (37.9%). On their average daily time spent at work, 65.5% of the respondents spend more than 8 hours at work daily as against 13.8% of

15 respondents who spend less than 8 hours at work daily. 79.3% of the respondents reported having <5 non-customers in their workplace. However, about 14% of the respondents had 6-10 non-customers. The non-customers captured the practitioners and apprentices at the workplace. 86.2% of the respondents gained their knowledge of the profession through apprenticeship and 13.8% from friends and siblings. Hence, most of the respondents can be said to have duly gained adequate knowledge of the profession.

Table 4.1: Job History Job history Variables Frequency Percentage Less than 5yrs 11 37.9 6-10 yrs 6 20.7 Work experience Greater than 10 yrs 12 41.4 < 8 Hours 4 13.8 8 Hours 6 20.7 Average time at work daily >8 Hours 19 65.5 <5 people 23 79.3 6 - 10 people 4 13.8 Number of non-customers >10 people 2 6.9 Source of knowledge of the Apprenticeship 25 86.2 profession Relatives and friends 4 13.8

As shown in Table 4.2 below, the mean number of customers attended to per day was 4.5±2.4 while the mean number of customers that could be attended to simultaneously was 2.1 ± 1.3. Table 4.2: Quantitative Job History variables Job history Minimum Maximum Mean Std. Deviation

Number of customers attended 1.0 12.0 4.5 2.4 to per day Number of customers attended 1.0 6.0 2.1 1.3 to once

16 4.1.3 Perception on the use of chemicals Twenty eight (28 Nos.) respondents, about 96.6% of the total sampled, reported the use of chemical to carry out activities at their workplace. Most of them 93.1% reported chemical use in relaxing hair, 79.3% in washing hair while 27.9% responded on the use of chemical in nail varnishing (this figure is quite low). The low response to chemical use in nail varnishing is quite appalling as it contains chemical agents such as Toluene, Phthalates, ketones and formaldehyde [1]. On assessment with respect to perception of chemical toxicity, 55.2% of the respondents said they were aware that some of the chemical products were toxic while 44.8% of the respondents claimed that none of the chemical products were toxic.

Table 5: Perception on the salon activities requiring chemical use

Activities chemicals are used for Frequency Percentage

Hair relaxing 27 93.1 Washing 23 79.3 Disinfection 15 51.7 Hair treatment 15 51.7 Nail varnishing 8 27.9 Nail treatment 13 44.8 Adhesives 21 72.4

The list of chemicals reported was to access their knowledge of toxic chemicals. From Table 6, the chemicals identified to be toxic were Dyes, Relaxer and Hair spray. The respondents that identified the toxic chemicals were 41.4%, 51.7% and 24.1% for dyes, relaxer and hair sprays respectively. Nail application products were not considered as being toxic despite its numerous hazardous chemical ingredients. Toluene for instance can get to the system through inhalation and absorption from the skin. It has been linked with endocrine disruption, risk of spontaneous abortions, and irritant of the eyes, nose and throat and can likely be toxic to the kidney and liver. It was also reported that there can be placenta to fetus contraction and as well as to baby through breast milk [7]. Also, a good number of the respondents 44.8% did not think that nail treatment contained harmful chemicals. Phthalates are primarily used as plasticizers, solvents and to fasten paints on nail have been found to trigger Asthma [8].

17 Table 6: List of the toxic chemical products

Toxic chemicals Frequency Percentage Yes 12 41.4 Dye No 16 58.6 Yes 15 51.7 Relaxer No 14 42.3 Hair spray Yes 7 24.1 No 21 75.9

Sources of chemical products: As shown in Table 7, 55.2% of the respondents buy their products from supermarkets while only 6.9% of them buy from hawkers.

Table 7: Sources of chemical products Sources Frequency Percent open market 10 34.5 Supermarket 16 55.2 Hawkers 2 6.9

Reading labels: Considerably, a high percentage of the respondents (89.7%) read labels before purchasing their chemical products, as shown in Table 8.

Table 8: Responses to reading of labels prior to product purchase Do you read labels? Frequency Percent Yes 26 89.7 No 3 10.3 Total 28 96.6

18 Table 9: Perceived hotspots on product labels Perceived hotspots on label Frequency Percent Yes 23 79.3 Content of the product No 6 20.7 Yes 25 86.2 Manufacture/ expiry date No 4 13.8 Yes 6 20.7 Country of manufacture No 23 79.3 Yes 6 20.7 Manufacturer's name No 23 79.3

Perceived hotspots on product labels: This attempted to assess their knowledge of what they look out for when reading product labels prior to product purchase. As shown in Table 9, most of the respondents (79.3%) claimed they check the product content and date of manufacture/expiration (86.2%). However, only very few of them claimed that they look out for the manufacturers’ name and country (20.7%).

Table 10: Purchase of products without labels

Would you purchase products without label? Frequency Percent

Yes 2 6.9 No 25 86.2 Non-response 2 6.9

Only a small fraction of the respondents (6.9%) said they would still buy products without label and another fraction (6.9%) did not respond to the question as shown Table 10.

Table 11: Reasons for not buying unlabeled chemical products Reasons for not buying unlabeled products Frequency Percent

It is not safe 9 31 no identity 16 55.2 Total 25 86.2

Respondents who answered in the negative in Table 10 gave their reasons for not buying unlabeled chemical products as either unsafe (31%) or because they have no identity (55.2%).

Table 12: Perception on the forms of chemicals 19 Form of chemicals Frequency Percent Aerosols Yes 26 89.7 No 2 6.9 Liquids Yes 22 75.9 No 6 20.7 Solids Yes 6 20.7 No 22 75.9

Most respondents identified the forms of chemical products to be aerosols (89.7%) and liquids (75.9%). However, only 20.7% of the respondents seemed to be aware that chemical products are also in solid forms as can be seen on Table 12.

Table 13: Exposure Route of Chemical agents Exposure route Frequency Percent

Mouth Yes 12 41.4 No 16 55.2 Nose Yes 26 89.7 No 2 6.9 Skin Yes 24 82.8 No 4 13.8

As shown in Table 13, the perceived route of exposure of the chemicals by the respondents, was reported to be through the mouth (41.4%), nose (89.7%) and skin (82.8%) respectively.

Table 14: Ventilation in workplace Ventilation Frequency Percent poor 16 55.2 fair 7 24.1 good 6 20.7 Total 29 100.0

20 More than half of the sampled salons were poorly ventilated (55.2%), as shown in Table 14. This poses a risk of atmospheric retention of chemicals in the products especially, liquids, solvents and aerosols which can get into the body through eye and by inhalation. The percentage of well ventilated workplaces visited during the course of the study was quite low (20.7%).

Table 15: Notice of change in body system Frequency Percent Yes 7 24.1 No 22 75.9

Table 15 reveals that 24.1% of the respondents were aware of certain changes in their body system; however, 75.9% of the respondents seemed not to notice any significant changes in their body system that could be attributed to chemical exposure in their workplace.

4.1.4 Health effects of chemical use

From Table 16 below, it is evident that from the field study only about 6.9% of respondents frequently experience body aches. Health effects relating to respiration experienced by salon worker includes bronchitis, cough, catarrh and Asthma. Only 3.4% of the respondents frequently had difficulty in breathing. However, other responses showed that 20.7% experienced respiratory dysfunctions including occasional difficulty in breathing and catarrh while 10.3% experience occasional coughing. This is a result of spending long hours inhaling chemicals in the air especially in poorly ventilated workplaces. One respondent complained of incessant abdominal pain. Another reported that she experiences miscarriage occasionally. Furthermore, respondents that experienced occasional neurotoxic effects such as memory loss and dizziness were 3.4% and 17.2% respectively. In a similar research conducted in the United States, it was reported that salon workers faced neurotoxic effects for instance 44% had headaches and dizziness at work [1].

Table 16: Responses to probable health effects of chemical exposure Health effect Frequently Occasionally Rarely Never Frequency 0 8 4 17 Headache Percentage 0 27.6 13.8 58.6 21 Frequency 0 6 3 20 Nausea Percentage 0 20.7 10.3 69 Frequency 0 5 2 22 Dizziness Percentage 0 17.2 6.9 75.9 Frequency 2 11 2 14 Body ache Percentage 6.9 37.9 6.9 48.3 Difficulty in Frequency 1 6 1 21 breathing Percentage 3.4 20.7 3.4 72.4 Frequency 0 6 2 21 Catarrh Percentage 0 20.7 6.9 72.4 Frequency 0 3 4 22 Cough Percentage 0 10.3 13.8 75.9 Frequency 0 0 1 28 Asthma Percentage 0 0 3.4 96.9 Frequency 0 0 3 26 Eye irritation Percentage 0 0 10.3 89.7 Frequency 0 0 3 26 Skin irritation Percentage 0 0 10.3 89.7 Frequency 0 1 1 27 Miscarriage Percentage 0 3.4 3.4 93.1 Frequency 1 1 1 26 Abdominal pain Percentage 3.4 3.4 3.4 89.7 Frequency 0 1 0 28 Depression Percentage 0 3.4 0 96.9 Frequency 0 1 1 27 Memory loss Percentage 0 3.4 3.4 93.1

4.1.5 Reduction of chemical exposure As shown in Table 17, a considerably high proportion of the respondents (89.7%) accented that they take measures to reduce their exposure to chemicals in their workplaces. Table 17: Reduction of chemical exposure Frequency Percent yes 26 89.7 no 3 10.3 Total 29 100.0

Table 18: Measures taken to reduce their exposure to chemicals

22 How you reduce chemical exposure Frequency Percent

Regular hand washing Yes 26 89.7 No 3 10.3 Use of PPEs Yes 19 65.5 No 10 34.5 Keeping a well-ventilated environment yes 13 44.8 no 16 55.2 Covering chemical products when not in yes 18 62.1 use no 11 37.9

Table 18 shows that most of the respondents practiced regular hand washing (89.7%) in order to reduce their exposure to chemicals, about 65.5% claimed that they use Personal Protective Equipment when necessary (this was however not very evident in most salons as at the time of the fieldwork). A good number of respondents (62.1%) also claimed they always cover chemical products containers when not in use and only about 44.8% of the total respondents sampled operated in a well-ventilated environment. There is the need for frequent trainings on health and safety in this group of beauty practitioners because from this field study, their awareness level on such issues is quite low. A significant proportion of respondents do not take action to reduce their exposure to chemicals; 34.5% do not make use of PPEs, while 37.9% of the respondents expose chemical products containers when not in use and more than half of the respondents (55.2%) operate in poorly ventilated workplaces.

Table 19: Safety device Safety gadgets used Frequency Percent Hand gloves yes 18 62.1 no 11 37.9 Head cover Yes 2 6.9 No 27 93.1 Body wear Yes 5 17.2 No 24 82.8 Nose mask Yes 3 10.3 No 26 89.7

23 It was observed during the course of the fieldwork that most of the respondents were not well kitted with safety gadgets like head cover (93.1%), body wear (82.8%), and nose mask (89.7%) while at work as shown in Table 19.

4.1.6 Waste management Generally, it was observed that all the respondents generate waste cosmetic containers, wastewater and tissues like natural or synthetic hair from their activities. However, only 13.8% reported that they generate wastewater and 17.2% claimed they generate waste from body tissues (like nail and hair) as shown in Table 20.

24 Table 20: Kind of waste generated Waste materials Frequency Percent

Cosmetics containers Yes 29 100.0 No 0 0 Wastewater Yes 4 13.8 No 25 86.2 Body tissue (nail and hair) Yes 5 17.2 No 24 82.8

Table 21: Solid waste disposal Waste disposal methods Frequency Percent LAWMA 25 86.2 Dumpsite 4 13.8

Respondents who disposed their solid waste materials through Lagos State Waste Management Authority (LAWMA) were almost six times (86.4%) those that use dumpsites (13.8%) as shown Table 21. This is an indication that most respondents practiced good solid waste management as required by the government.

Table 22: Waste water disposal Waste water disposal methods Frequency Percent drainages 14 48.3 on road 7 24.1 septic tank 8 27.6

Table 22 shows that most of the respondents (48.3%) used public drains, while 24.1% dispose their wastewater on road surfaces and 27.6% through septic tanks.

25 Poor drainage system Wastewater from customers stored in a bucket

4.1.7 Relationship among variables: Generally, the relationship variables were not statistically significant (with p-values more than 0.05). Hence, drawing inference may not be conclusive. Relationship between the size of workplace and perception on reading labels as shown in Table 23, all the respondents of small size workplace read labels. However, one of the respondents from large size workplace does not read labels prior to product purchase. This implies that the choice to read label is independent of size of the workplace, rather it is personal.

Table 23: Comparing the size of the workplace and label reading habit Size of workplace do you read label Total Yes No Frequency 9 0 9 Small Percentage 100.0% 0.0% 100.0% Frequency 14 1 15 Medium Percentage 93.3% 6.7% 100.0% Frequency 3 1 4 Large Percentage 75.0% 25.0% 100.0% Total Frequency 26 2 28

Table 24: The relationship between educational background and label reading habit

26 Educational do you read label Total background Yes No Frequency 4 0 4 Primary Percentage 100.0% 0.0% 100.0% Frequency 18 2 20 Secondary Percentage 90.0% 10.0% 100.0% Frequency 4 0 4 Tertiary Percentage 100.0% 0.0% 100.0% Frequency 26 2 28

As shown in Table 24, all the respondents with primary and tertiary levels of education claimed that they read product labels before purchase, however, 2 of the respondents with secondary education do usually read labels. Suffice to say that generally, what most respondents look out for in the labels is the expiry dates of the product and not the chemical constituents.

Table 25: Relationship between educational background and where respondents purchase chemical products Educational Where do you buy chemical products Total background Open Supermarket Hawkers market Frequency 2 2 0 4 Primary Percentage 50.0% 50.0% 0.0% 100.0% Frequency 7 11 2 20 Secondary Percentage 35.0% 55.0% 10.0% 100.0% Frequency 1 3 0 4 Tertiary Percentage 25.0% 75.0% 0.0% 100.0% Total Frequency 10 16 2 28

As shown in Table 25, a small fraction of respondents with secondary education purchase their products from hawkers. This could pose devastating effects on the product quality due to exposure to the elements such as sunlight and rainfall. Also, some of the goods may be adulterated due to proliferation of informal cosmetic products manufacturing sector.

27 Table 26: Relationship between educational background and their perception on chemical toxicity Educational background Are the chemicals toxic Total Yes No Frequency 2 2 4 Primary Percentage 50.0% 50.0% 100.0% Frequency 11 9 20 Secondary Percentage 55.0% 45.0% 100.0% Frequency 3 1 4 Tertiary Percentage 75.0% 25.0% 100.0% Total Frequency 16 12 28

There was some level of ignorance about toxicity of chemical products among respondents of primary (50%) and secondary (45%) educational background compared to those with tertiary education (25%) as shown in Table 26.

Table 27: Relationship between educational background and route of exposure Educational Mouth Nostril Skin background Yes No Yes No Yes No Frequency 1 3 3 1 4 0 Primary Percentage 25.0% 75.0% 75.0% 25.0% 100.0% 0.0% Frequency 8 12 19 1 16 4 Secondary Percentage 40.0% 60.0% 95.0% 5.0% 80.0% 20.0% Frequency 3 1 4 0 4 0 Tertiary Percentage 75.0% 25.0% 100.0% 0.0% 100.0% 0.0% Total Frequency 12 16 26 2 24 4

Most of the respondents irrespective of their educational background tend to believe that the major route of chemical exposure in their work place is through the skin and by inhalation. However, a large number of respondents with primary (75%) and secondary education (60%) did not think they could be exposed by ingestion.

Table 28: Relationship between number of years at work and observation of effects in their body system

Work experience Do you notice any changes in your Total body between then and now

Yes No Frequency 1 10 11 <5 Percentage 9.1% 90.9% 100.0% 28 Frequency 0 6 6 6-10 Percentage 0.0% 100.0% 100.0% Frequency 6 6 12 >10 Percentage 50.0% 50.0% 100.0% Total Frequency 7 22 29

At p<0.05, a relationship was established between the years of experience and perceived changes in the body system of the respondents as shown in Table 28. This reflects that the longer people stayed at work the more they experienced changes in their health status.

Response from observational checklist

Table 29: Chemicals identified during fieldwork and products they are found S/N Chemicals Products found 1 Dba: Dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride Disinfectants and cleaners 2 Pda: P-phenylenediamine Hair dyes, black henna tattoos 3 Gtc: glycerol thioglycolate Permanent wave solution 4 Ap: Ammonium persulfate Hair bleach 5 Em: Ethyl methacrylate Artificial nail 6 Ac: Acetone Nail polish removal, hair spray 7 An: Acetonitrile Nail glue removal 8 Ba: Butyl Acetate, Ea: Ethyl acetate and Ia: Isopropyl Nail polish, nail polish remover, acetate wig glue/hair piece bonding 9 Ma: Methacrylic acid Nail primer, eyelash glue 10 Hg: Mercury Bleaching creams 11 Hq: Hydroquinone paint

 The number of non-customers was 4±3 people however, 2±1 were the number of customers attended to.

 The ingredients identified to have detrimental effects found on shelf of beauty care givers were P-phenyllenediaamine found in hair dye, butylacetate, Isopropylacetate and ethylacetate found in nail paints and varnish, ammonium per sulfate in olive oils, acetonitrile and dimehtlybenylammoniumchloride.

 Twelve (12Nos.) respondents were observed to make use of hand gloves and protective clothing as at the time of the fieldwork, only one (1No.) respondent made use of head covering while working and none of the respondents made use of nose mask as at the time of the fieldwork.

29  There were no waste bins at five (5Nos.) salons sampled

 Sixteen (16Nos.) of the respondents did not have cross ventilation in their shops.

 Twelve (12No.) of the respondents had chemical products exposed in their workplace while not in use. This could increase their level of exposure to such chemical through evaporation and subsequent inhalation.

 Six (6Nos.) respondents were observed making use of chemical products without labels, most of them claimed they poured the products from the original containers into the unlabelled ones.

 Eight (8Nos) respondents were found not to have hand washing equipment.

 Nine (9Nos.) of the respondents had used containers littering thire work place. This is part of the poor chemical handling practice and could pose risk to children either of their clients or themselves.

 Only one (1No.) respondent was found that had cough and another catarrh as at the time of the fieldwork.

 Poor sanitation was observed in ten (10Nos.) workplaces with hair and food utensils littering the environment.

 Six (6Nos.) respondents were observed to also engage in sale of soft drinks which is not convenient with the occupation.

 There was presence of cooking equipment (plates, spoons and cups) in seven 7 (Nos.) workplaces.

 Seven (7Nos.) respondents had little children in attendance at their workplace; exposure to chemical products can constitute risk to the growth and development of these children. An aggressive respondent in Mushin LGA had a set of 3months old twins in her workplace with poor ventilation, very stuffy and dusty outside. She also was engaged in sale of carton of bottled drinks.

30  Poor food handling was also reported among seven (7Nos.) respondents such as, placing exposed food items inside hair wash basins as well as eating and drinking in shops when work was on-going.

 In Ikorodu LGA, one respondent was observed making use of dye on a client’s hair without using hand gloves.

 Other risk factors identified were people sleeping, pregnant woman sitting and poor electrical fitting at workplaces.

food items kept in head wash basin

Sales of bottled drinks at beauty care shops Food items kept inside head wash basin

31 Table 30: Observational checklist response S/ Observation item No of respondents N 1 Absence of disposal bin at workplace 5 2. Presence of uncovered chemical use 12 3. Use of chemical products without labels 6 4. Not having hand washing equipment 8 5. Containers of chemical product loitering the workplace 9 6. Poor housekeeping practices (litters of hair, attachment) 10 7. Sales of food products 6 8. Presence of cooking equipment 7 9. Presence of children at workplace 7 10. Poor food handling practices 7

5.0 CONCLUSION AND RECOMMENDATIONS Twenty-nine (29 Nos.) respondents were sampled from barbing salons and beauty shops across 20 local government areas in Lagos State. The respondents showed inadequate knowledge of the chemical toxicity and health effects of the products they use. More than half of the sampled salons were poorly ventilated. Respiratory, reproductive and neurotoxic effects of the chemical products were reported by the respondent. Very high proportion of respondents reported non-usage of safety devices especially head cover, body wear, and nose mask. The respondents who disposed their waste materials through the Lagos State Waste Management Agency (LAWMA) were almost six times those that made use of dumpsite. A larger proportion of respondents disposed waste water in public drainages. There was a significant relationship between the years of experience and perception of health effects. The observational checklist revealed a list of the harmful substances as well as unwholesome practices and scenes backed-up with relevant photographs. Generally, there was poor housekeeping practices among the respondents which cut across, chemical handling, waste management and safety practices.

32 5.1 Recommendations The following are recommended to avert the health issues that could result from beauty salon chemical products use: 1. Legal framework to regulate the profession and its practitioners has to be put in place. 2. Producers of cosmetic products should publish adequate information on the health and safety measures required in handling and use of their products. 3. Regular training and capacity building of salon owners, workers and sector stakeholders on occupational health and safety practices. A national training is recommended. 4. Media publicity should be made available through various platforms like the television, radio, street electronic billboards, social media etc. Urgent need for national awareness programme with zonal public enlightenment campaign 5. Employers of salon workers should grant them adequate time off the job such as off duty, leave and shift to reduce their exposure. 6. Government should regulate the influx of cosmetics and salon products into the nation so as ensure they are free of toxic ingredients. 7. Comprehensive epidemiological research should be encouraged to generate adequate information on effects of toxic ingredients in chemical products and more eco-friendly alternatives should be encouraged. A comprehensive nationwide survey is recommended. 8. There is need for continuous enlightenment on chemical toxicity that is adaptable to the level education of the apprentice.

33 APPENDIX 1

Bibliography 1. Scranton, Alexandra. (November 2014). Beauty and Its Beast: Unmasking the Impacts of Toxic Chemicals on Salon Workers.Women’s Voices for the Earth.

2. Halliday-Bell. J.A.; Gissler, M.; Jaakkola, J. Work as a hairdresser and cosmetologist and

adverse pregnancy outcomes. Occup. Med. 2009, 59, 180-184.

3. Galliote, M.P.; Kohler, P.; Mussi G.; Gattas, G.J. Assessment of occupational genotoxic risk among Brazilian hairdressers. Ann. Occup. Hyg. 2008, 52, 645-651.

4. Czene, K.; Tiikkaja, S.; Hemminki, K. Cancer risks in hairdressers: assessment of carcinogenicity of hair dyes and gels. Int. J. Cancer. 2003, 105, 108-112. 5. LoSasso, G.L.; Rapport, L.J.; Axelrod, B.N.; Whitman, R.D. Neurocognitive sequelae of exposure to organic solvents and (meth) acrylates among nail-studio technicians. Neuropsychiatry Neuropsychol. Behav. Neurol. 2002, 15, 44-55.

34 6. Quach, T, et al. “A Preliminary Survey of Vietnamese Nail Salon Workers in Alameda Country, 7. California.” Journal of Community Health. (2008); 33: 336343. 8. Gorman A, O’Connor P. (February 2007). Glossed Over: Health Hazards Associated with Toxic Exposures in Nail Salons. Missoula, MT: Women’s Voices for the Earth. Retrieved from: http://www.womensvoices.org/wp-content/uploads/2010/06/Glossed_Over.pdf 9. ChemHAT.org – Chemical Hazard and Alternatives Toolbox Retrieved from: http://www.chemhat.org/chemical/cmg10535/phthalates

APPENDIX 2: Photo gallery

Use of dye without hand gloves (Ikorodu) A respondent posing with her apron An apprentice with her child at work

35 Children asleep at workplace in poor conditions Uncovered cosmetics at Ibeju Lekki LGA

36 Linking Ajah from Ikorodu by boat A respondent at Ojo using a house frontage (without confinement)

Some students took to playing games after been sent from school in a barbers shop

APPENDIX 3: QUESTIONNAIRE CAMPAIGN PROGRAMME ON SAFE COSMETICS USE FOR OCCUPATIONAL WORKERS IN SALONS AND BEAUTY PARLOURS IN NIGERIA Dear respondent, This set of questionnaire was formulated to generate information on safe cosmetics use for occupational workers in salons and beauty parlors in Nigeria. It is therefore crucial to answer correctly. All responses will be kept confidential. This means that your interview responses will only be shared with research team members and we will ensure that any information we include in our report does not identify you as the respondent. Thank you.

37 a. Personal information 1. Location 2. Age 3. Sex: Male Female 4. Marital status: Single Married DivorcedWidow 5. Number of children: 6. Educational background: Primary Secondary Tertiary No formal education 7. Occupation 8. Religion: Christainity Islam Traditional Others 9. Tribe: Yoruba Igbo Hausa Others 10. What is your average monthly income: b. Occupational History 11. How long have you been working in beauty/barbing salon: 1-5yrs 6-10yrs above 10yrs 12. How long do you averagely stay at workplace daily: < 8hours 8 hours > 8 hours 13. How didyou learn the occupation: Apprenticeship From relatives and friends 14. How many non - customers do you haveat your work place: 1-5 ( ) 6-10 ( ) >10 ( ) 15. How many customers do you averagely attend to per day 16.. How many customers can you attend to at once: c. Chemical Exposure, waste disposal and health effects 17. Do you make use of chemicals in your daily activities? Yes No 18. What activities are these chemicals used for? Relaxing hair dying hair washing disinfection treating hairvarnishing nail treatmentglues

19. Are these chemical harmful if it get to your body system? Yes No 20. If yes, list the harmful chemical(s) commonly use in your occupation …………………………………………………………………………………………… …………. 21. Where do you buy your chemical products? Open market Supermaket from hawker Anywhere available

38 22. Do you read the label before buying? Yes No 23. What do you look out for on labels? (Tick more than one if necessary) constituents of the cosmetics Manufacture/ Expiry date Name of manufacturer country of manufacture 24. If a product does not have label, would still buy it? Yes No 24. Why to question 23? ______26. In what forms do the chemicals exist? (tick more than an option if necessary) aerosols liquids solids 27. What are the probable route of exposure?(tick more than an option if necessary)mouthnostril skin eye 28. How ventilated is your workplace? Poorly ventilatedfairly ventilated well ventilated 29. Do you notice any changes your body part and/or function now as compared to when you started this job? Yes No 30 . What effect(s) does these chemical pose to your health? Health effects Frequently Ocassionally Rarely Headache Nausea Dizziness Body ache Difficulty in breathing Catarrh Cough Asthma Eye irritation Skin irritation Miscarriage Abdominal pain Depression Memory loss

31. Do you reduce exposure levels to the chemicals used? Yes No 32. If yes, how do you reduce the levels of exposure? (Please tick more than an option when necessary) Regular hand washing Use of Personal Protective Equipment keeping a well ventilated working environment covering chemicals when not in use

39 33. What personal protective equipment do you use? Hand gloves safety head wear safety body wear nose mask 34. What kind of waste do you generate? (Please tick more than an option when necessary) Costmetics containers wash-offs body tissues (nail and hair) 35. How do you dispose off solid waste? (Please tick more than an option when necessary) through LAWMA taken to dumpsite open burning in drainages 36. How do we dispose waste water? In drainages on the road septic tank Thank you for your time APPENDIX 4: Observational checklist 1. Number on non-customers present: 2. Number of customers present: 3. Identification of some toxic chemicals using codes: Dba ( ) Pda ( ) Gtc ( ) Ap ( ) Em ( ) Ac ( ) An ( ) Ba/Ea/Ia ( ) Ma ( ) Hg ( ) Hq ( ) 4. Use of protective equipment: Hand glove ( ) Head gear ( ) Protective clothing ( ) Nose mask ( ) S/N Checked item Present Absent 5. Presence of waste disposal bin 6. Cross ventilation 7. Uncovered chemical product not in use 8. Chemical product without label 9. Hand washing equipment 10. Wash off from disposal of waste water 11. Used containers loitering the salon Personal examination 12. Cough 13. Sneezing 14. Skin inflammation 15. Catarrh 16. General comment with relevant pictures______Key

40 Dba: Dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride Pda: P-phenylenediamine Gtc: glycerol thioglycolate Ap: Ammonium per sulfate Em: Ethyl methacrylate Ac: Acetone An: acetonitrile Ba: Butyl Acetate Ea: ethyl acetate Ia: Isopropyl acetate Ma: Methacrylic acid Hg: Mercury Hq: Hydroquinone