Ropesa, Frontier Town
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Oropesa, frontier town “E del mal de vosotros a mí mucho me pesa, Otrosí, de lo mío, e del mal de Teresa Dexare Talavera. Yrme a Oropesa, ROPESA Ante que la partyr de toda la mi mesa” O And Its Parador From The Book of Good Love. Archpriest Of Hita E ven for the most attentive traveler, Oropesa comes as a surprise, like an inevitable and uneasy invitation. What is OROPESA? –Oropesa is a castle. –Oropesa is a palace. –Oropesa is embroidery work And even though Oropesa is all this and much more, it is above all a stopping point along the road of history. It is a crossroads as we move both away from and towards history. Oropesa was, and still is today, a border and frontier: Oropesa was created for strategic purposes and has developed accordingly. That is why it exists, here in the Ventosilla mountain range, on the best spot from which to control the pass leading from the Gredos Mountains to the north to the banks of the Tagus. We hark back to the time of the Reconquest, when Moors and Christians generally lived together in peace. But this did not prevent one from dominating the other, and in the end, from the roles being reversed. Nor should we forget that much earlier – very much earlier, probably around the 4th century BC – the region was populated by the Vettones, a Celtic tribe. Then, as we well know, came the Romans, who included the entire region (known as Campo Arañuelo) within the jurisdiction of Lusitania, with Emerita Augusta (today’s Mérida) as capital. Later still the Arabs invaded the Iberian Peninsula and soon realized the strategic importance of Oropesa. They built a castle at its highest point and these lands were under Muslim control for three centuries. These were relatively peaceful times of more harmonious co- existence than one might expect. They lasted until the 12th century, when Alfonso VI managed to conquer Toledo and its surrounding area, definitively making it part of the Christian territory of the Crown of Castile. After a long period of wars and skirmishes, the new Oropesa emerged as new privileges were granted to its inhabitants by Alfonso X. Don García Álvarez of Toledo was the first lord of Oropesa, and was later to be made a count by the Catholic Monarchs. These were times of splendor: leather and silk industries flourished, as did ranching, cultures and crafts. OROPESA AND ITS PARADOR 1 Arcos, built on the orders of the 5th Count of Oropesa so that the Oropesa would also experience the splendor of the Renaissance, as countess and their children could attend mass at the parish church can be seen in many of the buildings still standing today. One such without going out into the town. building is the palace that houses today’s Parador. The College of the Jesuits was inhabited by the order from 1590 to Another example is the Hospital of Saint John the Baptist, founded in 1767, when they were expelled during the seizures of church property. the 16th century by María de Figueroa, mother of the 5th Viceroy of The former town hall, in Vieja Square, bore witness to everyday life in Peru, Don Francisco de Toledo. There is also the passageway of Los Oropesa until 1871. Parador Virrey de Toledo Stories of Ambition and Disappointment he Parador of Oropesa, Virrey-Toledo, was named in eight, a beer was one peseta, and coffee or hot chocolate nearly two. T memory of its one-time inhabitant, Francisco Álvarez de Toledo, the 5th Viceroy of Peru. Inseparably associated with Its walls have known the mystic preoccupations of Saint Teresa de the castle, it has watched the passing of history since the time of Jesús and the ambitions and disappointments of Carlos V, who loyally Moors and Christians. kept the campfires burning in these fields. Juan of Borbón also made frequent visits as he made his way to his prolonged exile in Estoril, It was built in the 13th century, by order of D. García. Erected on visits some locals still recall. the site of the ancient palace that had been destroyed during the Reconquest, it sits next to the so-called Old Palace. They also recall that in the 1930s, Somerset Maugham stopped for lunch here on his way to Portugal. He wrote: Until the 18th century, it was the home of the Álvarez de Toledo family, the Counts of Oropesa. “In some villages and in two or three large towns, the Spanish government has set up a chain of Paradors, a The Renaissance-style building was built in the type of inn where the traveler can be sure to find 16th century. The palace was converted into a all the comfort he desires, attractive rooms, Parador in 1930, the first historic and artistic cleanliness, modern bathrooms, and excellent monument in Spain to be used in this way. It was food. I have visited several of them and would the president of the Paradores board, Count like to dedicate a few paragraphs to the Parador Gamazo, who informed the Mayor of Oropesa at in Oropesa. I only intended to stop for lunch, the time that but was so taken with it that I decided to stay for some time.” “For many reasons, it has been decided that the town of Oropesa will have the first Parador These walls hold many secrets, and more than housed in a historic building. The town council one conspiracy: will contribute the beautiful and well-situated Palace of the Duke of Frías, currently owned by In 1945, the Gothic Mudejar coffered ceiling the town.” witnessed an unusual lunch. General Franco was accompanied by General Moscardó and the At that time a room cost 25 pesetas, and lunch Ministers of Employment and Agriculture, Girón 2 OROPESA AND ITS PARADOR and Rein, respectively. Could they have been drawing up the Badajoz Plan? Also in the 1940s, several meetings took place here between representatives of the Portuguese and Spanish governments. Their aim was to devise strategies to put a end to smuggling, and to organize their secret services. There were meetings here between the governors of all the surrounding provinces to coordinate the fight against guerrilla movements. The Parador is decorated with excellently carved sculptures, sideboards, chests and benches, together with magnificent oil paintings and valuable green pottery from Puente del Arzobispo and the blue ceramics of Talavera. These touches give the rooms and corridors a welcoming and peaceful atmosphere. The clay floors are painted with Arab designs and gaze up at impressive coffered ceilings. The Gothic-Mudejar coffered ceiling in the dining room is particularly interesting. There are also modern Today the castle’s parade ground is used for many theatrical, dance, touches with works by contemporary artists. This Parador has been and zarzuela (Spanish operetta) performances during the summer the choice of many a famous visitor, perhaps because of its elegant air months. It has also been used as a location for films such as La of tranquility, its unique cuisine or its beautiful location. Giscard Malquerida, with Carmen Viance; Tren Expreso, with Jorge Mistral; d’Estaing has been a frequent visitor during hunting trips and John and Pride and Passion, with Frank Sinatra. Major has come during his many summer holidays in the La Vera region. A walk through the town’s monuments 1. Parador de Turismo 2. San Juan Bautista Hospital 3. The Passageway (Pasadizo), or The Arches (Los Arcos). 18 4. Church of Nuestra Sra. de la Asunción. 5. Old Town Hall. 19 17 6. Convent of Nuestra Señora del Recuerdo. 7. Church of San Bernardo. 1 8. Jesuit School. 8 9. Convent of Las Concepcionistas. 16 2 3 4 7 10. House where the blessed Alonso de Orozco 15 5 6 9 was born. 14 11. Town walls. 11 10 12. Town clock. 13. Town Hall. 13 12 14. Library. 15. Convent of Las Misericordias. 16. Ceramics Museum. 17. Gates in the walls. 18. Old castle. 19. New castle. OROPESA AND ITS PARADOR 3 Nobles’ Cuisine, Shepherds’ Food than gazpacho soup), roast meats, fried dishes, and cheeses. The T he cuisine of the Campo Arañuelo region, where Oropesa is region also offers a wide range of natural ingredients: fruit and located, has curious origins, although its present should lead vegetables, such as watercress, chickweed, white truffles, nettles, even the most frugal traveler to succumb to its temptations. The fennel, thyme, and more. region’s gastronomy is a result of its history, an excellent blend of the necessary “making-do” of the sheep and cattle farmers of the Mesta, There is an abundance of game, both small, including hares, their organization, and the relative sophistication that the nobles of partridges, pigeons, turtledoves, and thrushes; and large: wild boar the Reconquest imported from other regions. and some deer can still be found near the Tiétar River. Freshwater fish are becoming more scarce in the rivers, but tench, barbell, carp, Stews and dishes betray Muslim and Jewish touches, an omission and frogs can still be found. There is no lack of cod dishes made here – pork and fat – and an addition there – lamb and sweets made using rediscovered traditional recipes. with honey. We owe much more to our “invaders” in cooking and other areas than appears at first glance. We have Borrowed Migas The visitor will immediately realize that Oropesa’s cuisine is wide- (fried breadcrumbs), Gachas (a savory type of porridge which ranging and in no way limited. Portions tend to be generous, includes meat), and Garlic Soups; our Gazpacho and Ajo Blanco something to bear in mind when ordering! (white garlic soup), children of the Salmorejo (a tomato-based sauce); and As a result, it is difficult to suggest a list of Siñabí, now known as Caldereta de traditional dishes, but as an example we will Cordero (lamb stew).