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WOW magazine – The entrepreneurs of low-cost flying Power to the people Issue six 2015 WOW magazine – 70The years Food in Issue the air Power to the people Issue sixthree 2015 2015 15-1627 - HVÍTA HÚSIÐ / SÍA 15-1627 - HVÍTA

Make sure you give yourself time to visit and explore. Share the experience #wheninKEF because good times are to be shared.

The airport has been going through radical renovations. We can now offer more space, better facilities, diverse restaurants and more products at better prices. Arrive early and start your journey with us.

Enjoy your stay at KEF airport

2 WOW Power to the people 15-1627 - HVÍTA HÚSIÐ / SÍA 15-1627 - HVÍTA

Make sure you give yourself time to visit and explore. Share the experience #wheninKEF because good times are to be shared.

The airport has been going through radical renovations. We can now offer more space, better facilities, diverse restaurants and more products at better prices. Arrive early and start your journey with us.

Enjoy your stay at KEF airport

Issue six 3 HOTEL GEYSIR

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Nice aNd cozy rooms iN chalet or oNe wiNg hotel right opposite of Geysir the hot spriNg geyser area TOp 25 besT places gourmet a la carte restauraNt TO phOTOgraph local luNch buffet every day On The planeT earTh hotel & spa popphoto.com outdoor activities all year rouNd amaziNg NortherN lights

Welcome, hotel geysir

4 WOW Power to the people WELCOME TO GEYSIR HOTEL GEYSIR the geysir ceNter is directly opposite of the geothermal area of eelegalegaNNtt restaurarestauraNNts,ts, the great geysir spaspa withwith hothot sprispriNNgg jacuzzi,jacuzzi, aNd strokkur beautifulbeautiful NNatureature && fufuNN activitiesactivities I

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www.geysircenter.com / www.geysirglima.com / tel: +354 480 6800 / [email protected] www.facebook.com/hotelgeysir / www.twitter.com/hotelgeysir Issue six 5 We look forward to seeing you Please book in advance at bluelagoon.is

6 WOW Power to the people We look forward to seeing you Please book in advance at bluelagoon.is

Issue six 7 In this issue Power to the people – Issue six 2015

10 A letter from the CEO

12 WOW Cyclothon The biggest ultra-cycling race in Iceland (and probably the world) is held in June each year. The winning team of the A-cat- egory 2015 was Fast as Fire with Ergo. A letter from the editor 16 Surviving the dark Check out our WOW tips to survive even ‘Tis the season the darkest of days in Iceland.

he darkest months are upon 18 The top 10 of 2015 us here in Iceland, but that’s It’s time to review the most newsworthy ok. First of all, we’re used to it stories of Iceland 2015. and secondly, we have plenty 20 Sharing is caring Tof reasons to be merry in December Take a look at all the ways you can en- and January. The biggest reason of gage with WOW air through social media. all is, of course, the festivities around Where’s the Like-button for this article? Christmas and New Year’s, but we’ve got more than fairy lights and fireworks 22 a night on the town Wondering how to get acquainted with the 40 to light up our days. Our darkness is lit up by Northern Reykjavik bar scene? Take a guided tour 76 tHe future of banking is now Lights and snow and made bearable and meet some fun people on the way. From the chaos that ensued after the 96 Sweet Boston by our abundant geothermal energy, financial crash of 2008, one of the most Every Bostonite swears 26 a journey in time keeping our houses warm and cozy interesting startup and now leading loyalty to one shop or At Iceland’s National Museum you can even during the coldest of days. From innovative company came into existence. another. Here’s where take a literal stroll down memory lane you’ll find Boston’s best December 21st we celebrate that the and learn a thing or two about the Ice- cannoli. days are getting longer again—it might land’s culture and history. WOW Destinations just be by a few minutes each day, but 98 The cream of Bristol we feel it almost instantly. 30 traditional holidays Yup! We’re heading to Bristol, England You’d think that January would be Because of Iceland’s relative isolation 80 Montréal on in spring 2016 and here’s a few things long, dark and boring—and it can be, we seem to have held on to some special the roll you might want to know before you go. but Icelanders, masters of finding a Christmas traditions that go all the way Biking through Montreal back to heathen times. 100 You want more? reason to party, have a cure for that. It’s is definitely one of the best ways to explore See more of WOW air’s destinations. called Thorri, the festival where we eat 34 Breaking bread the city. all that rotten food you’ve heard stories Find out more about the leaf bread, Ice- 102 This and that about and it stretches into February. land’s uniquely cut and fried Christmas 82 12 reasons to …mainly this. You see, there’s no reason to let the bread. visit Toronto There are more than 12 darkness get you down. Iceland is also 106 What’s going on? a wonder to behold all covered in snow 36 Shoot the Northern Lights reasons but we were out of pages! …quite a lot, actually. and frozen to the core. Getting caught Whether you are a professional photo­ grapher or a layman you probably want in an Icelandic blizzard is an adventure 84 Stockholm— 110 wow horoscope to catch that epic Northern Lights photo on its own (please be careful though) nature and What’s in your future? WOW air’s famed while you’re in Iceland. and if all else fails, find an Icelander nightlife astrologist has the answer. Often called “Venice of the with a reason to party. 40 70 years in the air North,” Stockholm is filled 112 Bored on board? Captain Dagfinnur Stefánsson is one of with great spots to enjoy. Solve these sudokus. Happy holidays! Iceland’s most experienced pilots and has been at the forefront of Iceland’s 86 Christmas in Berlin 114 The Traveling Inquisition Guðrún Vaka Helgadóttir, editor in chief aviation history almost from the begin- Berlin is famous for its Christmas Gísli Johann quit his job to become a [email protected] ning. Among his numerous adventures markets and it’s due time we revealed full time stand-up comedian. He and his is his role in what is now known as the the best ones. friends now have a weekly stand-up in Loftleidir Adventure. English every Monday and Wednesday 88 Dublin—go to the dogs night at Gaukurinn. WOW magazine staff 64 Holiday season and high “Going to the dogs” takes on a brand Editor in chief: Guðrún Vaka Helgadóttir winter new meaning and is actually a great WOW magazine – The en T WOW magazine – 70 years in T WOW magazine – The F OO d On the cover magazine

thing to do in Dublin. repreneurs Design and layout: Issue

i sIx 2015 Ivan Burkni / [email protected] ssue Now’s a good time to disappear into he air Dagfinnur Stefánsson is one OF l OW

-c 70 years In the aIr O s T

F The enTrepreneurs of Proofreading: Paul Michael Herman warm cozy places with friends and loved lying low-cosT flying of the heroes of Icelandic ones. Try these recommended restau- 90 California— aviation history. He’s been a Contributing writers: Marvin Lee Dupree, Svava Jónsdóttir, The Golden State pilot for 70 years and played Gerður Harðardóttir, Einar Skúlason, Kári Gunnlaugsson, rants by eatsandsleeps.is. a part in one of the most Fjóla Helgadóttir, Guðrún Baldvina Sævarsdóttir, Paul No need for winter exciting entrepreneur ad- Power to the P Michael Herman, Cindy-Lou Dale, Judy Colbert, Katherine Power to the P Power to the P ventures of the 21st century.­

clothes. Come spring eo P eo eo le Issue six 2015 P P 66 realm of Vatnajokull le Issue six 2015 le Issue three 2015 How dO Icelanders Read about Dagfinnur’s­ survive tHe LaGrave, Halldóra Anna Hagalín, berlinur.de and www. 2016 WOW air will take darkest mOnThs? your free copy-take me with you Filled with contrasts, the Vatnajökull re- story and the Loftleidir festivals.is you all the way to Califor- gion is a great destination all year round. Adventure on pages 40-45. Dagfinnur was photographed, by world © WOW air nia via Iceland with our VERFISM renowned photographer and fellow pilot Ragnar H ER two new and warm des- Katrínartún 12 M K U I 68 Take a hike Axelsson aka RAX. tinations in the Golden 105 Reykjavík Do some city hiking and absorb stories Iceland State—San Francisco and the charm of Reykjavik spiced with Prentun: Oddi umhverfisvottuð prentsmiðja 141 776 and Los Angeles. wowair.com love, passion and other good things. Tel: 00 354 590 3020 PRENTGRIPUR 92 Free in D.C. 74 The Icelandic sweater E-mail: [email protected] While the Lincoln Memorial might be Icelanders wear their lopapeysa on all Oddi environmentally certified printing company the most popular site to remember the All rights reserved. Reprinting, direct quoting or recapitulation occasions and you should too. great emancipator there are numerous prohibited except with a written permit from publisher. places around Washington, D.C. where you can learn about Honest Abe. P.S. Would you like your very own copy of WOW magazine? 94 A French road trip Take this one with you or contact us Attention advertisers! After exploring Paris, the city of art and through [email protected] and we’ll Will your company be in our next issue? send you a printed copy. romance it’s a great idea to take a road Contact our advertising representative and he’ll make it happen. You can also check out WOW He’s just that good! trip and see more of France’s elegant magazine online at and graceful beauty. wowair.com.

8 WOW Power to the people Keeping Iceland warm since 1926 Shop at 66north.com

Issue six 9 A letter from the CEO

WOW, what a year!

What an amazing year this has been for our “little” WOW air. Before starting our new routes to North America, we acquired two brand new Airbus A321 aircraft and introduced our $99 transatlantic fares. Our team grew by 40%, our annual number of guests increased by 47%, our revenues by 62% and our load so far this year has been around 90%. In short we’ve exceeded all our goals, many of which we’d been told were impossible to reach. None of this would have been possible if it wasn’t for the incredible WOW team that has done a fantastic job on all fronts. I am extremely proud of our team and I’m also grateful for the trust that you, our dear guests, have bestowed in us. We could not do this without you.

Inspired by history Many people have asked what inspired me to start an airline and while the airline industry is full of great entrepreneurs and interesting characters, the ones who have truly inspired me are some of the early aviation pioneers in Iceland. Like the Wright brothers, they were true adventurers that overcame any and all challenges in order to pursue their dreams. It’s with great pride and pleasure that we have Captain Dagfinnur Stefánsson on our cover this month as one of those pioneers. His story and the early years of Loftleidir are nothing short of spectacular. The men behind Loftleidir were incredibly entrepreneurial and resourceful in how they started and grew their company to become a market leader in transatlantic flights back in the 1960s. Loftleidir pioneered the low-cost model and by using Iceland as a hub were able to go up against much larger players successfully. This is exactly what the WOW spirit is all about.

Back to the future After such a great year, some might sit back and enjoy it for a moment but here at WOW air we’re just getting started! We have already announced multiple new routes such as Montreal, Toronto, Stockholm, Bristol, Nice and not the least Los Angeles and San Francisco. With these new routes and increased frequency to many of our existing destinations, we will more than double our capacity in 2016 and expect to fly with over 1.5 million guests to over 25 destinations. Our fleet will grow to 10 aircraft and we are especially excited about adding three new Airbus A330s to our fleet. The Airbus A330 has great range and will serve Los Angeles and San Francisco as year-round destinations starting in June 2016. WOW air is committed to lowering fares wherever we go and we look forward to continuing our mission to make air travel affordable for everyone as we enter 2016. Thank you for choosing WOW air and making the WOW dream a reality. We look forward to seeing you again soon.

Sincerely, Skúli Mogensen Founder and CEO of WOW air

10 WOW Power to the people Make a toast with Iceland’s no. 1 beer Pour a glass of the number one beer in the country, raise your glass to a friend and say “scowl fyrewr thyer!” You should fit right in. Skál fyrir þér!

Enjoy responsibly

Issue six 11 12 WOW Power to the people Fast as Fire The A category winners of WOW Cyclothon The winning team of WOW Cyclothon’s A category did not win by chance. The team’s members: Kári Bryn- jólfsson (b. 1988), Davíð Þór Sigurðsson (b. 1989), Rúnar Karl Elfarsson (b. 1991) and his brother Anton Örn Elfars­son (b. 1989), have all competed in multiple races in Iceland and Denmark with great results. All of them have received Icelandic Cycling Championship titles in various categories and two of them, Kári and Davíð, were on the Icelandic National Team. They’ve been cycling­ from a young age with HFR (Reykjavik Cycling Club) when cycling was considered a sport for the ­eccentric, and that’s where their friendship and love for the sport began.

Photos: Kristinn Magnússon

Named “Fast as Fire with Ergo” after Ergo, their main sponsor, the team reached the finish line in just 38 hours 43 minutes setting a new record for the A category. Rúnar Karl participated in 2014 with Team Hleðsla and came in third. After that you could say that he tasted blood and he began plotting his return to the race the following year.

Getting the team together Rúnar Karl started by running the idea by his brother Anton Örn who thought it over for a long time before deciding to get onboard. He then went and convinced Kári to join their team as Kári had won the first WOW Cyclothon race in 2012 with his team Piltarnir (The Lads) so he had a lot of experience. “Davíð was last to join the team as he was playing “hard to get.” He’s a very strong cyclist so he knew he was worth his weight in gold for the team,” they agree. “Even though we‘ve all been into competitive cycling on and off for the last 12 years, as well as keeping up with school and work, we haven’t all been in top form at the same time for at least 10 years,” they add with a laugh.

Training As all of the team’s members lead busy lives they did not train together for the Cyclothon. “We’re all competitive cyclists so our training was not especially directed toward WOW Cyclothon but you could say that the race was a good extra motivation for us to keep to our strict training programs last winter and spring,” they explain. The team only got together once to train specifically for WOW Cyclothon. “It was the Sunday before the race. We cycled the new final leg of the race from Sudurstrandavegur Road. This part of the course is quite hilly and it was important for us to experience it. Also we wanted to see if our bikes were fit for the gravel part of the road,” they say.

Getting a head start Even if they did not train together they obviously had their race strategy well planned out. “We wanted to drive up the speed before the first changeover in Hvalfjörður to weed out the strongest cyclists. The tempo during this first part of the race is usually very high. It is the part of the race that most resembles traditional street racing and so all teams normally start with their strongest cyclists. We are all pretty equal in strength as cyclists and we weren’t really sure which one of us was the best cyclist so we just agreed that Anton and Davíð would take the first leg of the race. As soon as the flying start began below Mt. Esja they started taking turns attacking the other teams and allowing the competition to reel them in. Shortly before we turned into Hvalfjörður the group had gotten a lot smaller and we were cycling with Team CUBE, SS Gólf and 18 Bláir. This was a very good group and we started working together at good tempo throughout Hvalfjörður because we knew that we’d left behind some strong teams that would want nothing more than to catch up to us.”

Issue six 13 Alliances on the road intervals, 8-12 minutes max, where each part. The biggest incident of our journey Teamwork is certainly the name of the game cyclist really gave it his all. We managed to happened near the end of the race, while when it comes to WOW Cyclothon as cyclists help keep this fast pace all the way to the finish we were doing the fast changeovers. Elfar, each other break the wind, save their strength line. Our pace during the final leg of the race our team leader, was asking our next cyclist and gain more speed on the road. “Working was incredible and the favorable wind on if he was ready to go out and race but he with other teams also helps you stay sane,” the Suðurstrandavegur Road really helped us said ‘No, I really need a bathroom break and four teammates agree. “We wanted to keep this along. Working with other teams had really I need it now!” We were in quite a dilemma collaboration going for as long as possible but paid off as we needed all the energy we and despite having just finished a really fast we did test our friends a few times though.” could muster during the final kilometers. sprint, one of us had to go out again and Once Team Ergo was cycling along the south In retrospect we think that one of our cycle while that bathroom break took place. coast, working with Team CUBE and SS Gólf, strengths was how equal all of us are when Fortunately our guy came back even stronger they started to think it comes to cycling. Each one of us was able after doing his thing,” the guys say laughing. up ways to ensure their victory. “At the hill before Our pace during the final leg Almannaskarð Anton of the race was incredible tested the competition to and the favorable wind on get a sense of how tired Suðurstrandavegur Road they’d become. He opened really helped us along. a small gap between us and SS Gólf but we didn’t leave them there as they had some good cyclists that were essential to keep up the speed of our group. We decided that Davíð should break up the group while climbing the steep hill after Vík and our dream scenario was to break away with one of the teams and leave the other behind. Davíð really drove up the tempo but neither of the teams would join him. It wasn’t until later that we managed to break up the three team alliance.

And then there were two… “We kept up a great average speed throughout the south coast but the form of the other teams’ members varied greatly and it came as somewhat of a surprise when we left SS Gólf behind because their cyclist couldn’t keep up. to keep up the pace until we reached the Fast as Fire with Ergo seems to have Their car was the last in line so they couldn’t finish line,” the guys say. kept their cool on the road. “We all knew respond with a new cyclist until it was too each other before the race which makes late. After that we were able to maintain great Through the rough spots maintaining a good atmosphere in the RV tempo with the CUBE team. Anton attacked and When asked if the team hit any rough spots that much easier. We also had a lot of good Davíð took the sprint through Selfoss and we on the road they agree that the whole circle food to eat and in our opinion that’s a key managed to create a gap between us and Team was pretty much smooth sailing. “The road factor to keeping your sanity on the road. CUBE. It was imperative to keep the gap and construction near Laugar in North Iceland Our team leader and driver Elfar (Rúnar widen it further so we decided to change tactics was a bit of a surprise but fortunately Kári and Anton’s father) helped motivate us. He and started doing changeovers at ever shorter was out with his cyclocross to tackle that strategized with us, helped us keep up our pace and encouraged us. It was a really good feeling to receive his applause each time we came back into the RV,” they say.

At the finish line What stands out after WOW Cyclothon for the Fast as Fire with Ergo team was, of course, winning the race. “It was also an added bonus to set a new record for the A category which wasn’t our goal. The camaraderie of the team and the good teamwork we had with other teams is also what we’ll take home with us,” they say. Again? “We haven’t discussed it yet. There’s a lot of time that goes into setting up a team and participating in a race like this and there are a lot of pieces that have to come together such as sponsorship, finding a team manager, training etc. But this was a great experience and if we see strong teams sign­­ ing up for next year’s race who knows… It’s tempting to go again and defend our title. v

Join us for WOW Cyclothon 2016, June 21-23. Registration has already begun at www.wowcyclothon.com. See you on Team Fast as Fire with Ergo at the finish line in Hafnarfjörður. the Ring Road!

14 WOW Power to the people WELCOME ON BOARD!

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Amazing helicopter tours around Iceland for individuals or groups. You can choose from a 20 minutes city sightseeing tour up to a whole day journey and everything in between.

AirTaxi! We are often available on short notice! Your wish is our command!

The fleet is made up of the most modern and meticulously maintained helicopters on the market. The pilots are trained to the highest standards, experienced, friendly, multi-lingual individuals with great knowledge of Iceland’s spectacular nature. They will make your journey unforgettable. Safety and comfort of our customers is always our main priority.

• We operate from Reykjavik (city) Airport. • We offer free transport services within Reykjavik city area in connection with our flights. • We can, on the other hand, arrange for a pick up and/or drop off from and to just about anywhere in the country. • You can either pick one of our tours or simply design your own. • We are flexible.

Our service team is on duty 24/7 and will happily assist you at any time. Check out our tours and prices on our website.

E-mail to [email protected] or call (+354) 589 1000 Issue six 15 www.reykjavikhelicopters.com WOW tips Surviving the dark by Guðrún Baldvina Sævarsdóttir Photos: Thinkstockphotos.com

So you’ve decided to brave the cloth­­ing. And then there’s the temperature Even though the live music every night of the week. Tiny darkness of the Icelandic winter? regulated outdoor swimming pools and windchill will some­ artist-run gallery and performance In a land of extremes, this is admittedly the truly hot hot-tubs. A dip in an outdoor times feel quite scary, venue Mengi on Óðinsgata is the perfect a magnificent time of year but as you swimming pool may sound preposterous if the cold is easily destination for an intimate experience of succumb to the awe-inspiring forces that you’re already cold but trust us on this one manageable with something new and experimental and then rule these parts you might want a list of and head to your nearest pool in the next all the geo­­thermal there’s the crispy new concert hall Harpa activities to lighten the heart should you snow storm. You won’t regret it. activity. for something on a larger scale. Harpa find yourself writing existential poetry or houses an ambitious program ranging showing an unnatural interest in throat Discover new friends! from the Icelandic Symphony Orchestra singing. Take a page from our book and There’s nothing like a nice crowd of people (highly recommended) to music festivals follow these directions should it all to warm you up from the inside out and Dark Music Days (contemporary) to Sónar become a bit too dark. this is where Icelanders truly excel. One (dance and electronic). Should you not be of many contradictions that define this in the mood for music check out art gallery Lighten up! country is that this spacious capital with Kling&Bang, the Museum of Design and After a summer of almost continuous its tiny population hosts an impressive Applied Art or the Writer’s Union events daylight most Icelanders embrace the variety of cultural events. Check out at Gunnarshús. It might get dark but you sun finally setting properly in September Rósenberg Café on Klapparstígur for definitely won’t be lonely.v and as it gets colder there’s nothing better than lighting some candles, putting on your favorite somber music and catching up on your reading. This is the time of year to buy some delightful fairy lights, lamps and candlesticks to add a gentle touch to that comfy darkness. The same applies outdoors and when you catch your first glimpse of the northern lights you realize how wonderful the dark is. There is nothing quite like it, and if anything can pluck an Icelander away from binge watching the latest Netflix series and get him outdoors it’s the Aurora Borealis. Despite the tiny population of this very large island the urban areas here are as light polluted as they come so it’s best to get out of the city to view them properly. Don’t worry, you’ll see them from downtown Reykjavík alright but if it looks like they might make a real show of it while you’re in the city a good idea would be to head down to a place along the shore (Grótta/Örfirisey/Ægissíða) where you’re a little removed from the street lamps to better view the marvel.

Turn up the heat! The most frequent question Icelanders are asked when abroad is: “Isn’t it really, really cold there?” No, not really. Even though the windchill will sometimes feel quite scary, the cold is easily manageable with all the geothermal activity. Make the most out of this luxury and enjoy the abundant hot water, warm houses and heated garages. Besides this Icelanders relish their eider duck feather duvets and superb winter

16 WOW Power to the people AQUARACER CALIBRE 5 Cristiano Ronaldo is born to break all the records. His motivation is to win at every occasion to challenge the human statistics. Like TAG Heuer, Ronaldo surpasses the limits of his field and never cracks under pressure.

Issue six 17 Laugavegi 15 & Kringlunni - 511 1900 - www.michelsen.is Newsworthy The top 10 of 2015 Now that the year 2015 is rapidly fading and the year 2016 will be encroaching into our collective minds a short retrospective of this island nation’s most newsworthy events during 2015 is in order. by Marvin Lee Dupree

To most sports journalists, Iceland’s football association claims this is all the culmination of player development, exce­­llent facilities and excellent coaching; whereas most Icelanders know this is only the first step toward complete global domination in all fields.

Number SEVEN Speaking of global domination or rather intergalactic domination, Star Wars: Rogue One was apparently filmed near Hjörleifshöfði and Hafursey in South Iceland. This can only mean one thing: with Mads Mikkelsen in a starring role, some Icelandic men will be able to convince their wives and girlfriends to come see at least one Star Wars film.

Number ONE Number FOUR Topping the list is the music world’s As a result of these actions some com­­­ favor­­ite man/boy Justin Bieber. Bieber mentators argue that, along with other made headlines around the globe, or political blunders on both sides of the Number EIGHT per­­­haps more in Iceland, when he made political spectrum, this has enabled Regardless of the fairer sex’s interest in an impromptu visit to the island this past the Icelandic Pirate Party to reach un­­ Number Star Wars or lack thereof, Icelandic women September, only to return recently in his prec­edented heights of more than 30% FOUR The made headlines across the globe with Calvin Klein undies in the glacial river at in polls. In many polls they have more Icelandic Pirate the initiative Free the Nipple. Numerous Fjarðárgljúfur Canyon in his music video sup­port among young voters than the Party has reached females from all walks of life and of all “I’ll Show You.” Left Green, Progressive Party and Social un­­prec­edented ages took part in the viral #FreeTheNipple De­­mocrats combined. Their message heights of more campaign. This digital feminist action Number TWO regarding eschewing the left-right binary, than 30% in polls. emphasized gender equality while raising One thing that has been a constant since while also focusing on direct democracy, general awareness—and simultaneously we settled Iceland is our dependence on government transparency and free speech showing the world how badass Viking “skyr.” When we Icelanders are abroad has really struck a chord with the younger women can be. we try to explain how fantastic it is—and generations. we draw parallels to the Dutch-German Number NINE “kwark” or Greek yogurt, but neither are Number FIVE True to our Viking nature, Iceland has entirely close to the Icelandic delicacy. Outrage among been culturally exporting various products So it is no small wonder that MS Iceland Icelanders was not with skyr becoming ever more popular Dairies released a video mocking Arla limit­ed to politicians but the highlight of this year’s export is Skyr for pretending to be Icelandic, when though, in April the runaway success of the Icelandic film it is in fact a Swedish brand, produced in the Chilean artist Rams. Currently it will be opening the Germany. In the video MS has an anthro­­­ ­ Marco Evaristti Zagreb Film Festival and has managed po­­­morphized skyr speak to an Arla “skyr” poured crim­­son to garner accolades such as Cannes’ Un product in Icelandic—and hilarity ensued. dye into the geyser Certain Regard, once again proving that 1-0 for Iceland in the “Skyr Wars.” Strokkur, thus giving Icelandic lamb is the best in the world. its eruptions a pinkish hue and causing Number THREE chagrin to locals. However, some applauded Number TEN Although we Icelanders are descended his efforts and pointed out that many Finally, some meta-news to finish off from Vikings we do love being cosmo­­ governments and corporations are doing Number the year since, you dear reader, probably politan. Our foreign minister Gunnar Bragi far worse to nature than his “canvas work.” SEVEN helped Iceland in its financial recovery. Sveins­son committed a colossal blunder Not only have you done that by visiting Star Wars: Rogue by sending the EU a curt and terse letter Number SIX Iceland—but tourism is now the sector announcing the withdrawal of Iceland’s A far less controversial event occurred One was apparently that garners the most revenue for the membership application, despite the rul­ in Iceland that has the whole football filmed near country, outpacing the fishing industry ing coalition’s promises of a referendum community shaking its head. How did a Hjö­­r­­leifs­­höfði and which has dominated Iceland’s economy on the matter. This seemingly furtive nation that is quite shy of half a million Hafursey in South since its modernization. Not bad at all! We action sparked massive protests. people manage to quality for Euro 2016? Iceland. are glad to have you! v

18 WOW Power to the people WE’LL TAKE Free WiFi YOU THERE! ALL THE MOST EXCITING PLACES IN ICELAND

BUY NOW on this flight Why not buy a tour with us on board this flight? – just ask the cabin crew.

GREAT VARIETY OF NORTHERN LIGHTS EXPERIENCE! A SIGHT NOT TO BE MISSED!

EXPERIENCE A GREAT DAY WITH US!

More tours available on our website www.re.is AND IN OUR BROCHURES!

BSÍ Bus Terminal 101 Reykjavík +354 580 5400 [email protected] www.re.is • OR Issue six 19 www.flybus.is Sharing is caring WOW! We’re so social

Active on social media? So are we and we love sharing great photos, travel tips, good deals and other fun things on our many social media outlets as well as to Face to face our WOW Club members. Find WOW air on Facebook – facebook.com/wowiceland – hit that “like” button and add us to your favorites. Then help us share the WOW. We promise not to fill up your newsfeed with boring stuff or click-tag games. Perhaps just a cute kitten video once a year.

Instant karma We’re on Instagram too but we only use it to share good photos and we never Instagram our coffee; that’s a promise … unless it’s really, really good coffee. Follow @wowair on Instagram for great travel inspiration or just to see beautiful places.

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20 WOW Power to the people Issue six 21 Wake Up Reykjavik A night on the town Another Saturday night and you ain’t got nobody? Don’t worry, the guys at Wake Up Reykjavik will take you out and make sure you have a great time.

Photos: Julien Ratel and Eva Björk Ægisdóttir, courtesy of Wake Up Reykjavik

Founded by two friends, Egill Fannar Halldórsson and fore­­most, the Icelandic people. The result, the and Daníel Andri Pétursson, Wake Up Reykjavik is soon to be the most popular nightlife tour in Iceland, a high end event planning company, specializing in the Reykjavik Bar Crawl was born.” the vibrant Reykjavik nightlife. They are known for plann­ing the best bachelor and bachelorette parties The Bar Crawl in Iceland and their Reykjavik Bar Crawl has gotten Most people have had their share of bar crawls on outstanding reviews from all over. WOW magazine their own so what’s the difference between going out sat down with these nightlife aficionados and got to and hopping between bars in downtown Reykjavik know all about it. by themselves and springing for the Reykjavik Bar Crawl experience with Wake Up Reykjavik? “Ours is Getting into the groove a ‘see it all, do it all’ tour if you want to have fun and Having been friends since high-school, Egill and experience the Reykjavik nightlife in one memorable Daníel have definitely experienced their share of night! For 3 hours we experience all the best of what partying­­ but they soon found themselves creating and the Reykjavik nightlife has to offer through premium organizing large events for high schools in Reykja­­­vik Icelandic beer, unique cocktails, Black Death snaps which was how their business relationship started. and some traditional Viking cuisine. We visit three of But from high our favorite bars and end the night at Reykjavik’s larg­­ Wake Up Reykjavik school events to the est nightclub for those who want to drink and dance are known for plann­ Reykjavik nightlife, ‘till the break of dawn,’” Egill and Daníel tell us and how did that they might be on to something as the reviews on travel ing the best bachelor happen? “We were sites such as TripAdvisor are praising their services. and bachelorette constantly meeting Could you show up alone to the Bar Crawl? “YES! parties in Iceland new travelers that Even though we host a number of private Bar and their Reykjavik all had the same Crawls and other events we host a so called ‘OPEN’ Bar Crawl has gotten question: “We want Reykjavik Bar Crawl every Friday where anyone can to experience the join the fun. We limit these tours to 15 people and outstanding reviews nightlife. Where usually we have a fun mix of people from all over the from all over. should we go?” So, world, both smaller groups and solo travelers. For two years ago we the private events we take out everything from two realized that with people up to a hundred in one group.” our knowledge of the Reykjavik nightlife Staying current and our love for As in other cities the nightlife scene of Reykjavik is meeting new people subject to changes. What was hot yesterday might we had just what we not be so hot today so the two friends have to keep needed to create something special. We wanted to on their toes. “At this moment we are extremely give all those travelers­ the chance to experience the happy with our tours as we have been running them awesome­­ Reykja­­vik nightlife like us, the locals. We for a long time but we are always working on im­­ want­­ed them to stay away from the tourist-trap bars prov­­ing or modifying the agenda when we see the and get to know the true Reykjavik, through the most chance to do something better. This is a game that inter­­esting venues, the most unique drinks and first is constantly changing. What are the hottest venues today? What drinks are considered the best and what does today’s crowd actually like? So, we definitely keep our eyes open for changes and new opportunities and don’t hesitate to change our schedule if we think it would make the night even better.”

Rotten shark tales When people get together and drink, something is bound to happen. So what have Egill and Daníel seen on their tours around town? “Although our Reykjavik Bar Crawl is a nightlife tour, we very rarely see any­ one in our group get ‘hammered’. Five drinks are included in our price and that is usually just the right amount to keep everyone buzzed and excited. BUT, since we do a lot more than just the Reykjavik Bar Crawl then yes, we have definitely had our share of some crazy experiences! A very harmless but classic story is a moment from when we were at a Viking

22 WOW Power to the people Issue six 23 bar and among other things, we try the Icelandic exciting bars and restaurants are opening up every didn’t already exist in Reykjavik. We also wanted to fermented shark! Most people don’t know this but weekend. So there is definitely a reason for all the offer our guests a VIP experience that no one else the shark can be really variable and you can have hype. But in our experience, all of this wouldn’t is offering. So, today we’re able to throw our guests a piece that is actually pretty good while the next matter if it wasn’t for the friendly Icelandic people. a private yacht party with every­­thing that a good one can be absolutely terrible … To make a long There are of course huge nightlife scenes all over party needs which is defini­tely a once in a lifetime story short, we once had a guest try the shark who the world in big cities like New York and London but experience for groups of friends or bachelor/ got a really good piece. He laughed at his friends what makes Reykjavik special is that all the venues bachelorette groups visiting Iceland.” who thought it was terrible and then ate 3-4 more are literally on one street and everyone knows Speaking of bachelor and bachelorette parties— pieces at once … and it wasn’t long before he RAN everyone and that’s what creates the awesome Wake Up Reykjavik organizes a great number of to the bathroom!” vibe that is the Reykjavik nightlife. such parties in Reykjavik and it’s hard not to notice There are some that say that nightlife tours and that Iceland is quickly becoming one of the hottest The famous Reykjavik nightlife event planning is often catered to groups of guys. locations for this in the world. “We aren’t surprised,” A lot has been said about the Reykjavik nightlife What about the girls? “After a short thought, we Egill and Daníel tell us. “With extraordinary nature, that for the most part happens in just a thin slice wouldn’t agree with that statement. Although we an endless list of adrenaline fuelled daytime of downtown Reykjavik. We asked Daníel and Egill get a lot of bachelor/stag groups and company activities and most importantly, a WILD nightlife, to share the highlights with us. “In recent years, retreats where men are the majority, we actually this also makes Reykjavík the perfect destination Reykjavik has become famous worldwide for its get a higher number of female participants in our for unforgettable stag or hen parties.” wild and vibrant nightlife and is even considered by Reykjavik Bar Crawl. The most common guests in international travel the Bar Crawls are couples, groups of friends and The TripAdvisor revelations Although we get a magazines as one female solo travelers. We think the reason for this Having hosted numerous nightlife events, parties and lot of bachelor/stag of the world’s best might be that exploring the nightlife scene in a of course the Bar Crawl the TripAdvisor’s re­­views for groups and company cities to party in. foreign country by yourself can be both scary and Wake Up Reykjavik are through the roof and it’s quite retreats where men The reason for this lonely but the tours are safe, fun and a great way to amazing to see that there appears to be no decline is a combination meet like-minded travelers.” in the quality of their service as the company gains are the majority, we of many things, momentum. To what do Egill and Daníel owe this actually get a higher the Icelandic Get out of downtown! success? “We are ridiculously proud of our TripAdvisor number of female cocktail culture All of Wake Up Reykjavik’s nightlife tours are account and even though we haven’t been on participants in our is on a rapid rise, located in the heart of Reykja­­vik, on or around TripAdvisor for a long time, we would advise everyone Reykjavik Bar Crawl. we have got lots the main shopping street, Laugavegur. But Egill that is not convinced about joining a nightlife tour of brand new and Daníel also organize all kinds of activities to give it a look. But what to thank … It’s obviously a The most common microbreweries outside the city for their guests, such as ATV tours, mix of tons of different things. If I had to pick out one guests in the Bar that have been snowmobile experiences, helicopter­­ tours and of thing, then I would say that every night we have one Crawls are couples, a big hit among course their famous yacht parties. “We wanted to really clear goal, and that is to have fun. And so far groups of friends and locals and visitors create something extraordinary, something that that has been working out great for us.” v alike and it seems female solo travelers. Join Egill and Daníel for a night out on the town and experience the awesome Reykjavik nightlife first hand in great like new and company. You’ll find more information on Wake Up Reykjavik at wakeupreykjavik.com.

24 WOW Power to the people

Iceland’s National Museum A journey in time Each year a regular flow of tourists, students and seniors citizens vis- it the National Museum of Iceland for educational tours and lectures. Museum specialist Helga Vollertsen, makes a journey in time through the museum’s permanent exhibition, a chronological history of Ice- land beginning from the time of settlement to recent times. by Paul Michael Herman Photos: Courtesy of the National Museum of Iceland

The first settlers Christianity arrives cloth became Iceland’s biggest ex­port From a record Our journey begins safe within the outline In the year 1000 Iceland became a Christian­­ from around the 12th to the 14th century written in 1200, of a Viking ship shaped by lights on the nation, a decision prompted by a priest in the and there are some good examples on the date given for museum floor, a subtle reminder of the heathen religion, Þorgeir Ljósvetn­­­­­­ ingagoði,­­ exhibit at the National Museum. Although the arrival of the well-crafted ships that once carried the most powerful man in the country, Icelanders were living in a harsh environ­ first settlers was Nor­­­wegians, Swedes and Danes, during and agreed on by the chief­tains who were ment and overall had little by way of 874. Iceland’s time of settlement. officers of the Althingi (Parliament). mater­ial comforts they did like to dress up. From a record written in 1200, the date From the middle of the 10th century until In an attempt to copy the high fashion of given for the arrival of the first settlers was the 1550s religion was a big part of the Continental Europe, wool was woven and 874. Evidence of this has been unearthed daily life in Iceland, the church was rich then the threads were pulled to make a through the discovery of heathen graves and strong and there were a lot of Christian woolen coat look more like a fur coat which on display at the museum dated to be artifacts produced. A fair number of these was considered very fashionable during from this time. Found in Sílastaðir, north are on display. that period. of Akureyri, one grave contains a weapon, tools, jewelry, a horse and a dog; all objects Keeping up with the Continentals A hint of the old religion considered desirable for the afterlife. Between the years 1000 and 1200 most Since faith was an important part of peo­ Another grave, this one found on the of the people in Iceland were farmers. ple’s lives small churches were often built Snae­­fellsnes Peninsula is of a woman and The ability to produce woven (homespun) in the little communities dotted around the baby. An item in it with Celtic markings woolen cloth was shared by many Ice­­­ countryside. The oldest church in Iceland indicate that some people came from the landers who worked in their homes. This that still remains to this day was built British Isles. The woman in the grave is about 40, considered too old for that time to have been the baby‘s mother but as in other such findings, a child was often buried, with a woman to care for it when they reached their destination. These types of burials were not uncommon because during this time the mortality rate of childr­en was high. Men, on the other hand, had an attractive option. Those that died in battle would go to Valhalla where they would feast all night, enjoying the pleasure afforded to all brave warriors... In the morning it was back into battle. These findings are considered a re­­pre­­ sen­­tations of people’s concerns and their dis­­­position in those days. Work, self-de­­ fense or perhaps the taste of blood and the spoils of war as well as the milk of hu­­man kindness were all a part of their lives. Also a belief in the afterlife was firmly entrenched in the minds of people living then as it has been since ancient times.

26 WOW Power to the people around 1650 and thanks to the Danish National Museum, the Valþjófsstaður The creative arts in bloom Door, the front door of a church from ca. Beautifully carved wooden chests for 1200 was sent to the National Museum of clothing and other items are on display from Iceland in 1930 to celebrate the Althingi’s the period from 1600 to 1800. The chests 1000th anniversary. This door remains on were real attention-getters with rhymes and display in Iceland’s National Museum to riddles on them and secret compartments. this day. The unusual thing is that rather Tapestry of great diversity including than a Christian motif, carvings of dragons religious themes, stories from the sagas biting each other’s tail are carved into this and tales of knights woven into them were national treasure. Although Christianity skillfully craft­ed during this time. had been the official religion of Iceland the Today Icelander‘s are known for their old religion never really died out and these around 1600 during the period of the Reformation that we can creativity and innovation in the arts, dragons just might be a sign of that. find a painting made that gives an accurate impression of what evidentially a fruit born from these earlier It just so happens that this old church of an Icelander looked like. Displayed in the museum is one such times. Valþjófsstaður stood in in the Fljótsdalur painting of Guðbrandur Þórláksson, Icelandic mathematician, Valley where Helga, the museum specia­ cartographer and clergyman and it was the same man that had Mother‘s nature—Icelandic style list‘s grandfather served as priest. the first Lutheran Bible in Icelandic printed in Iceland. Guðbrandur The period between 1800 and 1900 was the also brought the printing press to Iceland and had two books Romantic Period in Iceland. During this time Art and literature printed each year during his 50 year tenure (The presses were Sigurður Guðmundsson, the first curator of While the Renaissance flourished on the roll­ing in Iceland. It was just a long process). The Bible on display at the National Museum designed a woman‘s Continent from the 1300s, it wasn‘t until the National Museum is an original dated 1530. costume representing the Icelandic nation

Issue six 27 with symbolism depicting the glaciers, the consequence to what then was therefore had the freedom to develop its Northern Lights and Icelandic flora using taken as a sign of laziness. This creativity with little or no interference just colors that you can produce here. It tradition is alive today. not only in the arts but in their customs also represents the ideal women, beheld Besides wearing something and traditions. For example, the Icelandic as virtuous, a woman with an indomitable new, once a year, specifically folklore and religious traditions observed spirit and in the role of a mother. The the 23rd of December was during Christmas in Iceland are unique strength of the modern Icelandic woman the chosen day each year for in many ways. The National Museum of definitely has its roots. washing one‘s clothes. This was Iceland will be presenting a Christmas also the big day for bathing. It is Program where the public is invited to A farmhouse from the 19th century a somber fact that hygiene was learn about them. If you really want to see what farm life in not high on the list of “things December 6th at 2PM the Yule Lads‘­par­­­ Iceland was like during 19th century you to do“ back in those days. This ents, Grýla and Leppalúði visit the museum can visit a farmer‘s home from that time custom of infrequent bathing along with musicians. It is a well-known period set up in the National Museum was not exclusive to Iceland. and appreciated event for Icelandic fami­­ of Iceland. Laid out on the floor of the lies but more tourists take part every year. museum is a life-size fully furnished upp­­­ Iceland emerges The program is in English. er part of a farmhouse—a single room Because of internal struggles Every day from December 12-24 at 11 with four beds and everything else you‘d during the 13th century Iceland a.m. one Yule Lad at a time (there are 13 expect to see. From this you can begin to became weakened and in in all) visit the Museum and entertain fathom the lives of people living in these 1262 lost its independence children with stories and traditional Ice­­ circumstances. Below this room was the to Norway. Norway eventually landic carol singing. This is very popular kitchen and the stables. unit­­ed with Sweden and among school classes and up to 500 kids Demark but after the disso­­­ visit the event each day. Icelandic tradition lution of this alliance, Iceland fell under Danish rule. The blue and On December 19, Terry Gunnell, Professor —for better or worse white flag on display symbolizes Iceland‘s hard fought struggle for of Folkloristics at the University of Iceland, As can be seen in the room, all homes independence. In 1904 home rule was granted and in 1918 Iceland will give a lecture on Icelandic Christmas in the 1800s had a spinning wheel and became a sovereign state in union with Denmark where the king of traditions, the lecture is free of charge (like on Christmas everyone was expected to Denmark was simultaneously the king of Iceland. In 1944 Iceland the Yule Lad-events) and in English. wear some newly spun piece of apparel. finally gained its independence. The museum is open on December Those who thought they were exempt 25th from 10-2 PM as well as December from honoring this national tradition Christmas at the National Museum 31st and January 1st. On other days the would be tracked by the Christmas cat In spite of the influence other Nordic nations had or tried to have museum is open from 10-5 except on and unceremoniously eaten—a natural on Iceland, Iceland is an island way out in the North Atlantic and Mondays. v

28 WOW Power to the people Issue six 29 Traditional holidays Iceland and Christmas —an obvious match In Western countries Christmas has now become associated with cultural touchstones such as Gremlins, Home Alone and National Lampoon’s Christmas Vacation. Contemporary celebrations of Christmas in Iceland focus on immense family gatherings and massive consumption of electricity to combat the midwinter darkness.

by Marvin Lee Dupree Photos: Thinkstockphotos.com

For most Icelanders the mere the end of Christmas is celebrated with mention of the word Christmas bonfires and supposedly elf dancing. brings up a myriad of connotations. Some So without further ado, let us delve into think of all the Christmas books published the winter solstice psyche of this island and gifted, as well as the necessary nation. Christ­­mas pajamas which one wears all Christmas to read and have epic sessions The Vikings are subdued in front of the TV with their loved ones. Despite the Christian repackaging of It is also a time for traveling across the Christmas, Icelandic Christmas festivities country to be with loved ones amidst a have always been deeply rooted in a steady stream of loud family gatherings all predictably peculiar Icelandic paganism throughout December, reaching its apex of old and the more recent transposed between Boxing Day and New Year’s Eve. Christian tradition. Yet, in the Germanic However, there are also many more and Nordic tradition the mid-winter customs that often baffle foreigners, associations have held more sway than especially because Christmas in Iceland with more southern nations. is more of a religious holiday than in the Celebrations during the winter solstice Anglo-Saxon countries, yet it is a hybrid have always been a part of the Icelandic curiosity with Christmas ogres, loads of heritage, regardless of Christianity. In Yule Lads instead of just one Santa Claus, stories such as Eyrbyggja Saga it is not to mention the murderous Yule Cat. apparent that “jól” had a different mean­­ On top of that, Christmas in Iceland does ing since the festivities included copious not really end until the 6th of January or amounts of alcohol and homicidal ten­­ on “þrettándinn” (the Twelfth Night) when dencies, while both in Grettis saga and

30 WOW Power to the people Víga glúms saga “jól” is a time of festivities. choice of fish. For dessert people would Consequently, it was a bit later in Ice­­­­ eat skyr with cream or “sætsúpa” which is land’s history that the social and cult­ural basically fruit soup made of dried fruits institutions that later became en­trenc­­ that have been boiled in water along with hed in Iceland, and the paradigm shift some grains, either oats or rice. from Yule to Christmas began; with the building of churches and Christianity Icelandic Christmas food during becoming more organized here based on the 20th century the establishment of a diocese, Icelanders Christmas culinary traditions of Iceland stopped toasting the old gods and began began to evolve with more affluence and to celebrate the more recognizable form of with the migration of people to Reykjavík Christmas. and its surrounding municipalities. Meat Still, as always, because Iceland was so became more affordable for all and isolated it managed to keep many curious gastronomical hedonism became the aspects. One notable social pheno­­men­ norm; in recent years Icelandic Christmas o­n was that many Icelanders instead dinners have led numerous Icelanders of attending Christmas evening mass to seek out medical assistance due to de­­cided they’d rather visit friends, drink overconsumption on Christmas Eve. and be merry. Apparently this infuriated However, the most noxious and in­­fa­­mous the Danish clergy who tried to uproot this Christmas dish is served on Þorláks­­ tradition but it became popular again in messa (Mass of St. Thorlac), or the 23rd the 20th century, especially with the in­­­ of December. This tradition from the troduction of the radio. West Fjords to eat fermented skate on Nowadays, shortly before 6 o’clock on this day ceased to be a regional affair Christmas Eve, Icelandic families turn and became, regrettably, a nationwide on the National Radio and wait for the custom. Why regrettable? Well, because For the extremely only due to the popularity of Jón Árnason’s bells of Hallgrímskirkja Church to peal the sweet aroma of ammonia from the lucky, an apple was Icelandic Folktales and Legends that the for Christ­­mas through a live broadcast. skate is omnipresent. Further changes a rare delicacy that number became fixed to 13 along with This is, for many, when the holy days truly to the Christmas culinary traditions here they were able to their current names, not to mention the begin and everyone wishes each other a happened due to the increasing influx of taste once a year radio broadcasting of Árnason’s stories happy Christmas before they sit down for a Danish products; one such introduction and only six or during the 1930s. lavish Christmas dinner while listening to was the “hamborgarahryggur” or pork seven decades ago In the old days the Yuletide lads were a Christmas Mass. rib steak as well as the “London lamb” many Icelanders’ the monstrous offspring of Grýla and which was less smoked than its older most common Leppalúði, and were considered evil just Christmas dinner in the turf house counterpart the “hangikjöt.” As for side association with as the Yule Cat was, being more canni­­ For Icelanders born in the 19th century dishes most Icelanders become teary Christmas was the balistic trolls than jolly tricksters. In Christmas was a rather humble affair. eyed if the compulsory green peas and red aroma of apples. the famous Icelandic poem Grýlukvæði, Most homes were centered around cabbage from the Icelandic Ora canned Stéfan Ólafsson wrote about their the “baðstofa” which functioned both goods factory are missing from the main mother who was a three-headed beast as a sleeping room and as the hub of dish—although in many families this is akin to the mythological Cerberus, with communal living. If one reads personal slowly being phased out. chin fuzz and a ram’s nose to boot. Like accounts of Icelanders and the Christmas with the Coca-Cola Santa Claus and the tradi­­ tions,­­ there is a noticeable com­­ It’s not Christmas without fruit, Scandinavian Nisse, the Icelandic Yule monality between all of them that is here near the edge of the world Lads have evolved from crystalized in one of the most iconic Besides all these gastronomic hedonistic their original Ice­­landic Christmas songs “Bráðum koma dishes that popped up during post bellum disposition blessuð jólin” (“Soon the Christmastide years, Icelanders began to enjoy other into more will be here”); in it Icelanders sing that novel foods—like fruit. In fact, this year’s everybody receives a gift—at least some Christmas will hopefully be the last where playing cards and a candle. Icelanders experience capital controls To many youths today these lyrics come but they’ve been a common practice from off as enigmatic but to Icelanders back the 20th century, thus making apples, then, the highlight of Christmas was when oranges and other foreign delicacies one received a candle and the “baðstofa” an extravagant luxury as some years no was lit up all night on Christmas Eve. apples were imported at all. However, For the extremely lucky, an apple was a during this period fishermen were able to rare delicacy that they were able to taste circumvent the capital controls by selling once a year and only six or seven decades cod roe to obtain foreign currency that in ago many Icelanders’ most common turn enabled them to purchase apples and association with Christmas was the aroma grapes to give to their kin and friends. This of apples. However, in some regions, not phenomena was known as “gotupeningar” all, it was common to make leaf bread (roe money) and allowed many Icelandic (see page 34) during Christmas Day along homes to celebrate Christmas with the with an assortment of delicacies such as sought after luxury goods they considered Icelandic pancakes and waffles. Other essential during the holidays. treats included “pottabrauð” which is a variant of the Icelandic straight rye The evil Santas are coming to town! bread or “rúgbrauð.” As for the main meal During the twentieth century the con­­ it was most commonly smoked lamb temporary version of Christmas that most meat which was made to last until the Icelanders have come to love began to New Year in many homes, while in others be formalized. For example there were “lundabaggar” or rolled-up slices of gela­­ various alterations of the Yule Lads and no tinous meat or Icelandic sausages were exact fixed number, with accounts of nine, eaten. In some cases it was the economic thirteen or even eighteen of them. It was

Issue six 31 not have at least one new item of clothing by Christ­­mas Eve you would land in its claws. The simple explanation behind this questionable parenting is that it was tied to the Protestant disdain for idleness. Within the Scandinavian and German culture areas the terror-inducing creature of choice for parents to scare wicked or lazy children was the Christmas goat or Krampus. Goats were not common in Ice­­land so the devil’s other favorite animal became the alternative choice, thus making the Yule Cat a very logical myth.

Some things never really change Over time and due to increased affluence many of these memories have faded somewhat in Iceland, but the cultural memory for some traditions is still vibrant, including such traditions as bak­­ing copious assortments of cookies. Another Christmas tradition is the vast amount of Christmas cards sent every Christmas to kin and friends around the country and globe, thus straining the capacity of the Icelandic postal service every Christmas season. Despite the immense demographic and social changes in Iceland, Christmas is first and fore­­ most a festival to celebrate family and lift one’s mood in the midwinter as has been customary in Iceland throughout the generations—except now we give our children iPads, not tall tales about canni­­ balistic cats and trolls. Instead of playing cards it is now board games so, despite some cosmetic alterations, Christmas is always the highlight of the year in Iceland and is ushered in with the beautiful Advent lights that adorn the nation’s homes.

Happy Holidays!

modern capitalistic friendly gift-giving gifts when the children place their shoe However, the most figures. Many historians and folklorists in the window before going to bed, that is noxious and in­­fa­ say it was amended because the Danish to say if they’ve been good. Naughty kids mous Christmas bourge­­oisie were shocked by the grue­­ tend to receive a potato. Their evolution to dish is served on some tales told to frighten children; that more amicable characters can be seen in Þorláks­­messa (Mass and the fact the Danish merchants wanted an Icelandic children’s magazine in 1901 of St. Thorlac), to make a few more krónur. where the Yule Lads are by then more or the 23rd of tricksters than trolls. December. From evil ogres to friendly As for the Yule Cat, most children were Yule Lads filled with existential fear of the dre­ The modern version of the Yule Lads, how­­ ad­­ed black cat. Parents would scare ever, has them giving Icelandic child­r­en ­childr­en with stories of it and if you did

32 WOW Power to the people Northern Lights Super-Jeep Tours Price from: 19.990 ISK

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www.adventures.is | [email protected] | +354 562-7000 | Downtown Reykjavík Sales Office at Laugavegur 11 Rafting • Ice Climbing • Snorkeling • Diving • Glacier Hike • Canoeing • Hiking • Kayaking • Cycling • Surfing • Boat Ride • Hot Spring • Swimming Issue• Climbing six 33 Super-Jeep • Caving • Horse Riding • Sightseeing • Snowmobile • Whale Watching • ATV • Incentive • Skiing • Mountain Hut • Camping • Combo Trips If you desire to make one’s inner artist. Later the leaf bread your Christmas a bit iron became the tool of choice and is now more Icelandic, you can found in homes across the nation. find recipes for leaf bread all around the Internet Artisan Christmas and to make it authentic The leaf bread iron was originally you can pick up a leaf a heavy copper roller but now it is bread iron before leaving produced in a wide variety of shapes and the country. designs, while some have utilized more specialized designs made from bullhorns or even whale teeth. Researching the history of this unique Icelandic item, I spoke to Hugrún Ívarsdóttir, a talented designer who is also the caretaker of the Laufabrauðssetur in Akureyri (a cultural museum for leaf bread). During our talk, I discovered the rich heritage of leaf bread as well as the longevity and stench from years old leaf bread, although they had a lovely design. However, not everybody has accepted the leaf bread iron enthusiastically since many also consider carving each piece of leaf bread as a distinct piece of art; in fact Hugrún informed me that in the old days, some people were so talented they would travel between Icelandic households to display their craft. In modern times though, leaf bread irons have now become an iconic symbol of Christmas, just like the Advent lights. If you desire to make your Christmas a Breaking bread bit more Icelandic, you can find recipes for leaf bread all around the Internet and to make it authentic you can pick Fancy cutting up a leaf bread iron before leaving the country. It is available for purchase from Handverk Haraldar and at the Icelandic snowflakes? design store Kraum. Additionally, you can The title of this article might sound like an oxymoron of sorts but the view information about the leaf bread festive staple “laufabrauð” is often known as snowflake cake or under and Hugrúns’ designs at islensk.is. v the idiomatically correct term “leaf bread,” while others have usually called it lace bread. Basically, it is a thin round cake fried in oil, but previously it was cooked in mutton fat. Nowadays, it is often served with butter, sweet béchamel sauce and smoked lamb.

by Marvin Lee Dupree Photos: The Cultural Museum of Leafbread

For those of you who are still connection between flour shortages and wondering why it is such an im­­­ leaf bread is evident. With increased portant tradition to Icelandic people imports of flour to Iceland this custom during Christmas it might help to get a seems to have faded out except in the short primer on this wonderful tradition. north of Iceland, but with increased Eking out an existence in Iceland was migration to the south it seems to have always a challenging task; simple flourished once again due to the familial products such as flour were rationed and cultural aspect as making leaf bread and not available to all, and when is an activity done with the entire family. the Danish government did import it, Icelanders could sometimes expect it Tools of the trade to be maggot-infested. To overcome In the old days just before the Christmas shortages, Icelanders started rolling fast, or advent, during the midwinter, out flour, rye and barley to make leaf families and extended family members bread. In a yuletide folk song about would meet just as they do now to carve Grýla the terrible troll that eats naughty out very delicate and intricate designs in children, the lyrics go “the children shall the leaf bread. Another factor was that receive bread to feast on at Christmas.” both genders took part in this ritual, thus So obviously for many folklorists the a pocket-knife was often used to reveal

34 WOW Power to the people Issue six 35 Gotta catch’em all Shoot the northern lights Tis the season. Forget about the electric lights of the city and head into the Icelandic wilderness to see the real show: the elusive northern lights.

Photos: Ao Thor

Iceland is truly a dream destination for photo­­ Lights Photography Tour is definitely Visiting graphers and many travelers come here something to try whether you’re Iceland to exclusively to photograph the country. Visiting a pro­fessional photographer or a see and Iceland to see and photograph the northern photo­graphy enthusiast. “Finding the photo­ lights is becoming increasingly popular but northern lights might be fairly easy, graph the Iit’s not always easy. For optimal northern lights but to shoot them perfectly you need north­ern gazing and photographing you have to get away a bit more know-how. We are very lights is be­ from the illuminated city and the most photogenic selective in the locations we choose com­ing in­ spots are often far from the beaten tracks and for the northern lights tours and they creas­ingly can’t be reached except by 4WD vehicles driven by usually involve places where we have popu­lar experienced drivers. our privacy and can take our time to but it’s not For this reason many tour operators offer a shoot,” says Ao about his northern always great variety of northern lights tours and one of lights tours. easy. them, Arctic Advanced, even offers a speci­aliz­ed photography tour. Led by professional photo­graph­ For those interested in knowing more about the Arctic Advanced photography tours we recommend checking er Eyjólfur Már Thoroddsen aka Ao, the Northern out arcticadvanced.com, aothor.com and photographyguide.is. Happy snapping!

36 WOW Power to the people Issue six 37 Tips and tricks for shooting the northern lights:

1. Check the northern lights forecast on en.vedur.is/weather/forecasts/aurora/ before you set off. 2. When shooting the northern lights, a tripod and a cable release are a must.

3. If possible, set the camera on timer, 10 sec. of the northern lights is plenty. 4. Don’t use filters. 5. The wider the lens, the better the results. A For best results, go to 14 mm lens would be ideal. It’s a plus if the places without light lens is f/2.8, but not necessary. pollution. 6. Great lenses for shooting the northern lights would be Samyang 14, f/2.8, Nikon 14-28, f/2.8 and Canon 16-35, f/2.8. 7. The new Sony cameras are giving brilliant results with green colors and producing some amazing images of the northern lights. 8. Canon cameras are doing wonders with the red hues. 9. For best results, go to places without light pollution. 10. Spare batteries in your coat pocket; freezing temperatures and long exposures drain camera batteries. v

38 WOW Power to the people A Once-in-a-Lifetime Adventure

Inside the Glacier 3 departures weekly Feel the Power

South Coast & Waterfalls Departures daily Experience a Natural Phenomenon

Northern Lights Tours Up to 4 departures daily A Must see! The Golden Circle 4 departures daily Airport transfer to Reykjavík

Tickets: Arrival Hall

Book your ticket in the Arrival Hall!

Contact Information - 24 hour booking service Book now at www.grayline.is or call +354 540 1313 Sales Office, Hafnarstræti 20, 101 Reykjavík, Iceland Bus Terminal at Holtagarðar shopping centre

Issue six 39 #FindAReasonToGo #GrayLineIceland #GrayLineIceland /GrayLineIceland grayline.is 70 years in the air Have you ever heard of the low-cost model when it comes to flying? If you’re reading WOW magazine you probably have, but did you know that the idea of offering cheap, no-frills transatlantic flights is actually an Icelandic idea and not a very recent one?

Photos: RAX – rax.is

40 WOW Power to the people 70 years The entrepreneurs of low-cost flying in the air

Issue six 41 There was a whole group of us Icelanders training to be pilots and this one time some of us got into a spot of trouble at a dance and were all thrown in jail. It was a very big jail, many stories high and the acoustics were magnificent, so naturally we started singing.

eet Captain Dagfinnur Stef­­ airplane could take three,” says Dagfinnur. The Herring Adventure ánsson, one of the most Soon Loftleidir needed more planes “We could hear There was a job waiting for Dagfinnur at experienced pilots in Iceland and Sigurdur went back to the States and the captains Loftleidir when he got back. At the time who has been flying for 70 bought another Stinson and then later a chattering the “Icelandic Herring Adventure” was in Myears and holds Icelandic pilot license no. Grumman Goose seaplane. “The Grumman between boats full force and both Loftleidir and Iceland 26. He was at the forefront of Icelandic seaplane worked really well for the West on the radio, Airlines were hired to search for the aviation history and played a role in what is Fjords,” says Dagfinnur. “They had no badmouthing herring. “I think I enjoyed these herring now known as the Loftleidir Adventure. airports there but in those seaplanes they us pilots: ‘These flights most of all. I was only about 20 could go all the way up to the shore, put the flying monkeys years old, and I was so excited to fly these The Loftleidir Adventure begins wheels down and drive up to land. We had never see a planes and to be able to report to the What is Loftleidir you might ask? Loftleidir to be careful not to go too far so we wouldn’t damn thing!’ ships where the herring was located. The was an Icelandic airline also known as stop the traffic on Isafjordur’s main street,” they said.” herring was in such great shoals at the Icelandic Airlines and the first to offer low Dagfinnur reminisces and smiles. time that the sea appeared to be black. fares between North America and Europe We had a secret code name for every area using Iceland as a hub. The company was The advantages of and zone so the foreign boats that were listening in couldn‘t get the founded on March 10, 1944, and Dagfinnur, having a US army base locations. Sometimes there was no herring to be found, then the who had not yet become a pilot at that Dagfinnur decided to become a pilot at boats would go and wait for the herring to come in from the east. time, put forward some money to help an early age and to quit his job as a sailor. We could hear the captains chattering between boats on the radio, found the company. He started working for Loftleidir in the badmouthing us pilots: ‘These flying monkeys never see a damn Loftleidir got started, Dagfinnur tells fall of 1944. “My job was to service the thing!’ they said. They might lie there, wobbling and not even see us, when three men, Alfred Eliasson, planes, fuel them and that sort of things. that a shoal of herring was right next to them. When that happened Sig­­urdur Olafsson and Kristinn Olsen, Then in the spring of 1945 I went to Tulsa, we tried to fly low over them in the direction of the herring, alerting came back from Canada after finishing Oklahoma to train as a pilot. I flew out the them on the radio. They sounded different then: ‘Thank you my their pilot training, bringing with them a with the US army’s ATC – Air Transport dear friend’ they’d say.” four-seat Stinson Reliant airplane. “They Command. They often went between offered their airplane to Flugfélag Íslands Ice­­­land and the US carrying soldiers, diplo­­ Scaring the competition (Iceland Airways) asking for a job as well. mats and others. Their aircraft only had Loftleidir competed with Iceland Airways on the domestic market The executives at Iceland Airways held a benches – no seats.” for almost a decade but according to Dagfinnur, Loftleidir’s slice board meeting discussing this offer and The war in Europe had just ended and of the pie, decided by the Icelandic government, was less than decided that yes, they’d be willing to buy the US was still at war with Japan, but favorable. Loftleidir was allowed to fly to the West Fjords but not to the airplane and yes, they’d be willing to Dagfinnur says he had no trouble getting the places east of Saudarkrokur in North Iceland such as Akureyri hire two of them but that they thought one a visa from the US Embassy. “No, they and Husavik, or to places on the east coast such as Egilsstaðir. of them was too heavy,” says Dagfinnur. were very accommodating and also in Iceland Airways got the lion’s share of the island. “They had the Presented with this counter-offer, the the States. There was a whole group of us Eimskipafélag (Icelandic Steamship Company Ltd) behind them, three friends declined and decided to Icelanders training to be pilots and this one as it was their biggest shareholder,” he says, and at that time the found their own airline. “They were pushed time some of us got into a spot of trouble at Icelandic market was pretty much ruled by companies related into it really. Me and Alfred are related as a dance and were all thrown in jail. It was to the Steamship Company, which also had ties in the Icelandic our fathers were brothers and Kristjan a very big jail, many stories high and the government. These ruling companies were often nicknamed “The Johann Kristjansson was married to our acoustics were magnificent, so naturally Octopus” because of their many and far reaching arms. aunt. Kristjan ran a packaging factory, we started singing. The black guys joined Loftleidir started flying to Europe’s mainland in 1947 using Kassagerdin. Alfred got in touch with in immediately, but all the others started Douglas DC-4 Skymaster aircraft, the first real international aircraft him about financing the new airline and cursing us, telling us to shut up. Then came owned by an Icelandic airline. A year later, Loftleidir got permission Kristjan got together a few other men who the wardens, opened our cell and told us to fly to the United States and added a second DC-4 to their fleet. had some money. With their help Loftleidir to get the hell out of there, we weren’t fit Dagfinnur tells us not everyone believed in Loftleidir’s venture got started. Alfred asked if I would like to for jail, but we’d have to appear before a into international aviation. “When we were buying the Skymaster join them. I didn’t have a lot of money at judge the following day. We did and the aircraft the CEO of the Icelandic Steamship Company called Alfred the time, I was working as a sailor then, but judge asked: ‘So, you’re from Iceland? We for a meeting and asked him: ‘Is it true that you’re planning to buy he knew that I was interested in aviation. have an army base in Iceland, right?’ We a Skymaster aircraft?’ Alfred confirmed and then the CEO asked: So I put in 5,000 krona but being at sea I said yes and then he asked, ‘What happens ‘Oh, but where are you going to get the money to do that?’ to which couldn’t attend the inaugural meeting, so when our guys get into trouble in Iceland?’ Alfred replied: ‘That’s none of your business. But you can rest Kristjan Johann took care of that for me ‘They’re taken care of by their own officials,’ assured that we won’t be stealing it out of the Icelandic Steamship by being my representative. That’s how we answered. Then he banged down his Company!’ and then he walked out of there.” it all began and Loftleidir began flying to gavel and said ‘Same here’ and let us go.” “All the specialists here in Iceland, those learned men and the Isafjordur in the West Fjords. There was Having a US army base had yet to prove money specialists, they all said: ‘Are you going to fly to America, one passenger in the inaugural flight, the even more useful for Icelandic aviation. competing with PanAm, American Airlines, British Airways,

42 WOW Power to the people Lufthansa, Air France and all those great fueled up the aircraft. They really liked it,” situation and even advertised under the “Loftleidir did big airlines? We’re sorry, but this won’t says Dagfinnur. Note that in those days slogan “We are the slowest but the lowest.” have low fares, work. This plan is nonsense.’ And those a flight between Reykjavik and New York But they did more than charge less, as but I think we also were the specialists!” says Dagfinnur and could take up to 18 hours depending on expressed in the slogan “Lowest fare – offered quite good admits that Loftleidir really didn’t feel the the weather. The DC-4 airplanes were most care.” service. When we international competition all that much. unpressurized and had to fly quite low had our stop- “Well, IATA did try to have us banned in the often resulting in icing that slowed the Jet-setters without jets overs in Reykjavik US. They brought charges against us in aircraft down. Following the massive success of Loftleidir, our guests Washington, D.C., but they didn’t succeed their airplanes filled up fast and it were offered a as the officials said our flights were in the Hippie Airlines often happened that the bigger airlines complimentary public’s interest. I think perhaps a part of Being a young airline, long before the delayed their departures in order to see dinner in a that good will from the US officials had age of the internet, Loftleidir sought new if anyone got left behind. “Yes, they came barrack at the something to do with the fact that they low-cost ways to introduce themselves in to our office at Kennedy Airport, KLM and airport while we had an army base here in Iceland at the the market and they found ways to target Lufthansa for example, shortly before fueled up the time.” young people in the states by teaming up our departures, asking if we had more aircraft.” “It went pretty well but, of course, with colleges to create essay competitions passengers than we could carry. They paid there were hard times too. Sometimes where the author of the best essay on great attention to us and were always we couldn’t even be paid our salaries so we were asked if we would Iceland won a trip with the airline. “It ready to pick up our scraps,” Dagfinnur be willing to take our salaries in shares. Those who did never lost was pretty clever on our publicist’s part. says with a laugh. any money. The overall atmosphere within the airline was really The kids started competing for the prize Yes, the 1960s were booming years for good; morals were high,” says Dagfinnur adding that he can’t really and meanwhile they learned a lot about Loftleidir and they were operating five explain how the working atmosphere got so good but that to a large Iceland,” says Dagfinnur. Loftleidir became Douglas DC-6B Cloudmaster airplanes extent it was thanks to Alfred Eliasson. “He was so resourceful in popular among young Americans as it which they bought from PanAm. “The DC-6s everything that he did. For instance in how he decided that our enabled them to travel cheaply to Europe changed a lot for us. They were pressurized base of operations during the herring flights should be located at earning it the nickname “Hippie Airlines” so they could fly higher,” says Dagfinnur. Miklavatn Lake in North Iceland. Iceland Airways always flew out of or “Hippie Express” in the late 1960s. Loftleidir’s fleet started getting both bigger Akureyri but Miklavatn Lake was close to the fishing zones and being Traveling with Loftleidir became somewhat and faster, first with Canadair CL 44D-4 in based at the middle of its eastern shore gave us greater options for of a rite of passage, even Bill and Hillary 1964 and two years later the first of four take offs and landings in all wind directions. And the fact that it is a Clinton traveled with them to Europe. CL44Js. freshwater lake was also good because there was less corrosion on Loftleidir did not join IATA (International In 1970, Loftleidir became the founders of our seaplanes than from seawater,” Dagfinnur explains. Air Transport Association), which defined Cargolux, in partnership with Luxair, Selina the fares for its member airlines on shipping company and investors. Dagfinnur Going international transatlantic routes at the time, so they was captain of the first ever Cargolux flight, In 1952 Loftleidir discontinued all domestic routes deciding to were able to offer considerably lower ticket along with Kari Jonsson, Jon Ottar and Karl focus solely on international routes and two years later they started prices than the big IATA airlines. Loftleidir’s Oskarsson. This flight was for the Red Cross, offering prices that had never been seen before, and people loved it. passengers had to be more interested in flying relief goods from Zurich to Sao Tome. “Loftleidir did have low fares, but I think we also offered quite good getting to their destination cheaply than Cargolux is still a thriving company and service. When we had our stop-overs in Reykjavik our guests were comfortably or exactly on time. Loftleidir amongst leading cargo airlines, operating to offered a complimentary dinner in a barrack at the airport while we took advantage of its somewhat underdog the main continents of the world.

Issue six 43 I celebrated my 70 years of flying on June 14th this year. I’ve flown 31,400 hours. When we were flying the DC-4s, one could get ca. 1,000 hours every year because they were so slow.” “44 WOW Power to the people Loftleidir entered the jet age with its at the office, Birna Thorisdottir, asked me couldn’t maintain our altitude and had to “The economic first two DC-8-63 in 1970 and also a if would like to fly the Orbis plane now send out an emergency call to go lower. We situation was DC-10 in 1979. As well as building up that I was retiring. Orbis is a non-profit saw that we wouldn’t make it to Keflavik difficult in those their fleet, Loftleidir realized their jet non-governmental organization dedicated and were thinking of turning around and years. I was age visions and ideology by building the to saving sight worldwide. The Flying heading to Goose Bay, but even that was a always against modern style Loftleidir Hotel and offices Eye Hospital is operated in a specially stretch. The wind at the airport was strong this merger and at Reykjavik Airport. It was both the equipped aircraft with volunteer pilots ca. 86 knots, and we were going to try to I believe that it biggest and grandest hotel in Iceland, flying the plane and its medical team land at a US army base at Narsarsuaq would have never with a conference center, swimming pool to various developing countries in order Airport in Greenland, but it had no runway happened if and restaurant. It was also ambitious with to perform eye operations aboard the lights. So the Americans parked cars along Alfred’s health had great artworks both on the exterior and plane, free of charge. I flew that plane the runway to light it up. We were able to not deteriorated interior of the building. occasionally for three years, we flew to land there despite the weather conditions at the time and if countries in Southeast Asia and South and all ended well. Our passengers were those who were The end of Loftleidir America—the plane would stop for ca. invited to a cocktail party thrown by the meant to steer Due to unfavorable conditions Loftleidir three weeks at each destination and the army after we landed and then they got an the company had was forced to merge under government pilots were usually sent home on other opportunity to shop various goods at the been up to the pressure with the politically tied Iceland flights during that time, but sometimes we army’s special store. They were quite happy task.” Airways in 1973. The merged airline was decided to stay. Once there, the doctors about it.” In spite of his various experiences named Flugleidir, which, some years later, performed various eye operations, people such as the ones mentioned, Dagfinnur became Icelandair. According to Dagfinnur, this merger didn’t have to would come in blind and leave the plane adds: “Still, nothing has scared me enough happen. “The economic situation was difficult in those years. I was seeing. It was quite amazing. There, under to keep me from flying.” always against this merger and I believe that it would have never the Orbis insignia, we could travel through Dagfinnur still has his pilot’s license and happened if Alfred’s health had not deteriorated at the time and areas that were under siege or wrought by likes to fly his Super Cruiser plane every if those who were meant to steer the company had been up to the civil wars because the Orbis plane and cars now and then. “I celebrated my 70 years task. After the merger, there was even talk of discontinuing flights with the Orbis insignia were sacrosanct by of flying on June 14th this year. I’ve flown to America, which was started by cutting out Chicago and then all parties,” Dagfinnur says, obviously fond 31,400 hours. When we were flying the Luxembourg, which had been Loftleidir’s main destination center in of his time spent with the Orbis project. DC-4s, one could get ca. 1,000 hours every Europe for many years. The government in Luxembourg had always year because they were so slow,” Dagfinnur worked with us, even forgoing the landing fees and such things when From Jennys to jets says. Just two weeks ago he fulfilled his we were going through hard times. After the merger, the new board of With 70 years of flying Dagfinnur has dream of flying a Curtiss Jenny biplane in Flugleidir also wrote off Cargolux; they didn’t want to have anything had his fair share of adventures, from Kentucky. “Now I can say that I have flown to do with it,” Dagfinnur says, adding that he believes that Loftleidir crashing on Vatnajokull Glacier during a everything from Jennys to jets.” on its own would at least be of similar size as Icelandair is today cargo flight from Luxembourg (the whole When asked what stands out from his had the merger not happened. Dagfinnur still upholds the history crew survived), to getting his plane shot long career he is quick to answer: “All of it. of Loftleidir and raises the company’s flag on its birthday on March at during a refueling stop in Dubai, when It’s been a varied experience; I can’t put it 10th every year. Along with one of Loftleidir’s former chief mechanics, terrorists attacked passengers on a any other way.” v he’s rebuilt the old base at Lake Miklavatn which now holds all sorts British Airways plane, shooting them as of memorabilia and articles from the herring flights and Loftleidir’s they left the plane. “Many lost their lives, golden age. “Alfred always said that Lake Miklavatn is where the amongst them one local serviceman who And there it is, low-cost transatlantic Loftleidir Adventure got started,” Dagfinnur says. was under our plane during the shooting,” flying was invented by the entre­­pre­­ says Dagfinnur. “Then there was this one neurs at Loftleidir. We here at WOW air are proud to follow in their footsteps Doing good time when we were flying in darkness and can only hope to find pilots like Dagfinnur was captain with Flugleidir and then Icelandair until from New York to Iceland and were hit Dagfinnur along the way. 1988 when he retired as a commercial pilot. “When I retired, a lady by unfavorable headwind and icing, we

Flying a Jenny. Dagfinnur sittting at the front ,with his friend Dorian Walker. Photo: Courtesy of BG Daily News

Issue six 45

%%Myntatexti við mynd af gamalli flugvél með tveim flugmönnum: Flying a Jenny. Dagfinnur sittting at the front ,with his friend Dorian Walker. Photo: Courtesy of BG Daily News Promotion

The Lebowski Bar Laugavegur 20a 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 552 2300 email: [email protected] Lebowski Bar www.lebowskibar.is The Reykjavik venue that rocks! From the entrepreneurs that brought you Café Oliver and Vegamot,­ comes Lebowski Bar. You can take a quick guess where the name and inspiration comes from and even if you didn’t like the infamous 1998 movie we are certain­ you will love this bar.

ust walking into this retro American bar swaying. If that’s not enough there’s a DJ on every to a new level, offering an astounding 18 varieties puts a smile on your face and the mood night of the week so you won’t feel the pressure of of White Russian, along with an extensive bar list. is very 1960’s. You can hang out at the select­ing all the music by yourself. The menus are old fashioned porch and imagine you are the biggest in Iceland … no literally! Their phy­­sical Bowling at the bar in a real action movie. They don’t make dimensions are huge! Doesn’t everyone say that The real icing on the Le­bowski cake, however, is bars like that anymore … oh wait they size really does matter? the bar’s gen­u­­ine bowling lane – it’s a classic. How Jdo, this one! Four big screens adorn the walls, so Try their amazing burgers, there’s cheese, bacon, many bars have a bowling lane? In Iceland, not it’s also a great place to hang out when there are a béarn­aise sauce option and succulent beef ten­ many, unless you count the bars at actual bowling big events and sporting high­lights to be seen. And der­loin. If that’s not enough, choose from one of the alleys that certainly don’t have the cool vibe of Le­ there’s also an “outside” area deco­­rated in a zappy 12 kinds of milkshakes to go with it. bowski Bar. DJs and a bass player add to the music Miami­-sunshine yellow that will cheer even the mix at weekends and there’s room to dance. Check dullest of days. “Careful man, there’s a beverage here!” it out dudes, you’re guaranteed a good time. Jeffrey ‘the Dude’ Lebowski, the protagonist of Dine and jive the Coen brother’s­­ comedy, is renowned for his Lebowski Bar really captures the diner style with penchant for ‘White Russ­ians’ – vodka based cock­­ “Try their amazing burgers, there’s cosy booths and a fabulous jukebox containing tails featuring coffee liqueurs and cream or milk. cheese, bacon, a béarn­aise sauce option over 1,600 songs guaranteed to get those hips The Lebowski Bar has taken this now-iconic drink and succulent beef ten­der­loin.”

Lebowski Bar is my favorite place to hang out at. I love grabbing a good beer, a burger & topping it with a delicious milkshake. Lebowski Bar plays oldies music which mak­­es the vibe like none other in Reykjavik.

They also have happy hour from 4-7pm and who doesn’t love that! Bottom line, Lebowski Bar is a great main­stream bar where you can meet fellow travel­ers and have a drink with locals. Practice the word ‘SKÁL’ (Cheers) ~ Inga,@TinyIceland (www.tinyiceland.com)

FIND IT ON FACEBOOK and Twitter Twitter: @LebowskiBar - Instagram: #LebowskiBar - Open 11:00 – 01:00 Sun-Thurs and 11:00 – 04:00 Fri/Sat

46 WOW Power to the people Promotion

Lavabarinn Lækjargata 6a 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 845 88 68 email: [email protected]

Lavabarinn At the center of the scene Lavabarinn represents what Reykjavik is famous for … nightlife! Admit it, you’re not here to collect stamps. You’re here to travel, take photos and brag about it all while sitting at a fantastic lounge drinking delicious cocktails. That’s exactly what the Lavabarinn is all about and the architecture and design is beautiful.

avabarinn focuses on high quality cock­­­ After drinking magical cocktails that taste like bring their drinks along for the break. You won’t be tails, mixed by highly skilled bar­­­tenders. paradise, why not move down to the lower floor and disappointed by either the cocktails or the music The age limit is 25 so leave the kids with shake it to some high class music by hot DJ’s from at Lava­­­barinn. You might want to get in early before the babysitter and dress up. This is no all over the world. It doesn’t hurt that Lavabarinn the line starts and secure your spot. If it’s nightlife place for sneakers and hoodies. also has a Funktion-One sound system, the most you seek, it’s nightlife you’ll find at Lavabarinn. If you require VIP services, then this is respected sound system in the world. Lyour place. Lavabarinn has a secret room with a Downstairs also has a large make-up room for “After drinking magical cocktails that secret door that leads up to the top floor; very 007. everyone that chooses to freshen up while in there taste like paradise, why not move down The VIP service doesn’t stop there as you’ll have and seats to cool down after a great dance session. to the lower floor and shake it to some your own private drink elevator, private bathroom There’s even an excluded outdoor smoking area high class music by hot DJ’s from all over and security to hold off all your fans. for those who are absolutely smokin’ and they can the world.”

Lavabarinn Open: Thursdays from 5pm-1am—Fridays and Saturdays from 5pm-4:30 am. Happy hour Thursdays-Saturdays from 5-10pm. That’s perfect. Issue six 47 Promotion

The English Pub Austurstræti 12 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 578 0400 Mobile: +354 697 9003 www.enskibarinn.is

Save water, drink beer! For years, Iceland has enjoyed a diverse selection of restaurants and often sophisticated bars. However, one tiny grumble occasionally surfaced from the country’s Anglophiles – simply that there was no proper “pub”.

nd so the English Pub was born. numerous Ice­­landers and worldly travelers make at­­mos­­­­phere and for anyone feeling lucky, there is From modest beginnings it has built the pil­­­grim­­age to the pub’s humble door. Located the Wheel of Fortune. Regulars like nothing more a hearty reputation, seeking out, at the very heart of down­­town Reykjavik, the walls than to spin the wheel and chance a “Sorry” or with the advice and guidance of its of the English Pub are adorned with hundreds of pre­­­fer­­ably win what used to be call­­ed a Yard of Ale. dedi­­­ cat­­­ ed­­ customers,­ the finest ale photographs – like an album of the city’s history These days, it’s ine­vitably known as a meter of beer, available to mankind. Today it offers just waiting to be explored over a quiet beer. but the winners don’t seem to min Aits enthusiastic cli­­­entele the chance to sample 50 beers from around the world, as well as a stagg­­­er­­ A sporting chance ing 15 Icelandic brands. Live sporting coverage is amply catered for, with a choice of three big screens and TVs. In­­side the pub Whisky galore there is room for up to 150 people, and an out­­­door “Located at the very heart of down­­town Not content to rest on its laurels, the English Pub terrace can accommodate plenty more on those Reykjavik, the walls of the English Pub has ventured north of its virtual border and also balmy Ice­­landic evenings! Whether it is foot­­ball are adorned with hundreds of photo­­­ offers the finest selection of whiskies anywhere (Premier and Champions League), rugby or golf, graphs – like an album of the city’s hist­­ory in the country. The choice of some 60 malts there are always special offers when live events are just waiting to be explored over a quiet include many of Scotland’s finest, ensuring that being broadcast. Live music every night adds to the beer.”

48 WOW Power to the people Promotion

Vegamót Vegamótastíg 4 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 511 3040 email: [email protected] www.vegamot.is

Very nice Vegamót The all-in-one restaurant This elegant but casual two floor restaurant is located in the heart of Reykja­vík on Vega­­mótastígur, close to Lauga­­­­vegur.

he restaurant has been popular for places in Iceland during those short summer “The restaurant has been popular for many years, perhaps because of its months. This place is famous for their ‘fresh fish of many years, perhaps because of its wonder­ful quality of being an all-in-one, the day’, served all day from lunch hours. It has very wonder­ful quality of being an all-in-one, rest­aurant, café and bar. You‘ll never reasonable­­ prices for quality, portions and presenta­ rest­aurant, café and bar. You‘ll never want to leave! tion and guests can choose from a wide variety of want to leave!” Here the decor is rich on the Medi­­­terr­­ decadent dess­erts – if they make it that far. Tanean side and yet elegant with a jazzy ambiance. Try their excellent selection of good beers. Every In the summertime tables are moved outside to day there is a special offer on bottled beers worth the shelt­er­ed terrace, probably one of the hottest a taste.

Issue six 49 Promotion

Hressingarskálinn Austurstræti 20 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 561 2240 facebook.com/hressingarskalinn

Coffee house, restaurant & night club Hressingarskálinn is a warm place with plenty of seating and a great loca­­tion in down­ town Reykjavik. It’s one of the few places that open at 9 AM to serve breakfast for hungry travelers or locals. Hressingarskálinn is a big part of Reykja­vík’s history; the house was built in 1802 and the restaurant was established in 1932. The house has hosted Hressingarskálinn­ since 1932.

itting down for a coffee has a magnetic the world. It’s a great place to meet strangers for not, there’s lamb or the fish stew – You won’t be effect on Iceland’s most talented art­­­ some interesting story sharing. Live bands play disappointed. Hressingar­­­ skálinn­­­ is stylish and ists and writers. Smokers can have a on Fridays and Sat­urdays, guaranteeing a crowd old at the same time, a history well preserved. seat on a heated patio with service all before all the popular DJ’s hit the floor with party Check out Hress­­­ingar­skálinn for great prices and day. Over the summer, this place really tunes from 01:00-04:30 AM. The menu consists awesome fun! comes alive. The yard is completely of great selections and offers everything from sheltered from the wind, allowing you to enjoy food breakfast to a fantastic dinner. Hressingarskálinn “The menu consists of great sel­­ect­­ions S and offers every­thing from breakfast to a and beverages in the bright sunlight. Thursday to offers Icelandic food for curious visitors. You can Sunday is usually packed with people from all over always try the traditional Icelandic meat soup. If fantastic dinner.”

50 WOW Power to the people Promotion

Sakebarinn Laugavegur 2 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 777 3311 www.facebook.com/Sakebarinn

The one and only choice for Sushi & Sticks …so you can check it off your bucket list

Located in a loft on Laugavegur, the main shopping street, in one of Iceland’s oldest­ build- ings (1886) is a great new restaurant with a great view and an amazing atmosphere­ called Sakebarinn. In its beautiful location, surrounded by windows that look down on Austurstræti, (an extension of Laugavegur leading to the Old Town) and up Skólavörðustígur (known for its cafés, local boutiques and art shops with native works), Sakebarinn lies in the very heart of downtown Reykjavík. In the winter you can see the Northern Lights from the balcony and in the summer, the amazing summer sunsets over the harbor.

he owners of Sakebarinn have a keen everyone. There’s love on every plate – You will feel floor in the same house. A year and a wild ride later, interest for the arts and crafts and a it with each taste. this sushi family has in­­corporated a bunch of new wealth of creative assets to play with. It’s no accident that the place is named Sakebar­­ ­­ and talented people with some great new recipes Although Sake­­barinn has a strong inn. It does feature the country’s largest sel­­ection and skills they didn’t know they had and didn’t even foundation in pure Japanese cuisine the of sake and a shot before a meal can truly enhance know existed. The walls are hand painted by them, current style of the restaurant proves the feel of real Japanese dining. It comes in a the wine selected by them, the menu is designed Tthat the owners are not afraid to break some of the sur­­prising range of flavors too, everything from by them and the place is loved by them. They also rules. To them sushi is meant to be an art form. really girly fruit sake to the fire spewing alcohol love to present food so their clients become part of Along with its handcrafted sushi, Sakebarinn con­­tent of some of the more butch types; potato their love for sushi. also offers a sel­­ection of sticks and other meat sake, warm and cold sake and Japanese plum The look on your face is what they are aiming for, cours­­es, featuring whale and horse and anything wine. And then of course are the bottles that didn’t the look of enjoyment. that’s fresh and interesting that day. Why live on make it on to the menu because no one could read an island in the middle of the Atlantic if you’re not the labels and therefore no one knows what they going take advantage of the natural fauna? Along are. Mystery sake! Sakebarinn is a place born to “Along with the local seafood, Sakebarinn with the local seafood, Sakebarinn also carries show­­case the talents the staff have collected over also carries some more exotic things like some more exotic things like octopus, just to the years work­­ing at their first Sushi restaurant­­ octopus, just to keep it interesting, and a keep it interesting, and with a little some­­thing for call­­ed Sushibarinn, which is located on the first little some­­thing for everyone.”

Sakebarinn Opening hours: Mon-Sun 5:00 PM – 00:00

Issue six 51 Promotion

Tíu dropar Le Chateaux des Dix Gouttes Laugavegur 27 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 551 9380 Tíu dropar / Le Chateaux des Dix Gouttes Tíu dropar (Ten Drops) is a café located in the cellar of Lauga­vegur­ 27. This is one of the oldest cafés in Iceland and for the last 30 years to this very day they serve freshly baked pancakes and waffles á la the grandmothers of Iceland, with lots of whipped cream and Icelandic jam.

en Drops is also known for its home­­ other light dishes for as little as 500 ISK a plate, Intimate climate made cakes, baked from scratch and don’t worry, the coffee, co­coa and pancakes are The little wine room and café seat only 40 guests accord­­ ing­ to old recip­­­ es,­­­ and of course, still there! Lovely French music sets the mood and and the mood is set in the early evening. It’s safe to their hot cocoa, known by many of their the ambiance is perfect for a deep conversation. say this is just the kind of place that was missing guests as ‘The Only Real Hot Cocoa on Guests want­­­ing to break out in song can have their from the brimm­­­ing Icelandic bar and café scene Earth’. If you’re not in the mood for old turn after 22:00 on the weekends, as long as they - a perfect sett­ing for a small group of friends to Tfashioned Icelandic good­ies you can choose from can find some­­one to play the antique piano given to reminisce over the good old days or for a first date. an assortment of light dishes, tea, wines and beer. the café’s owner, David Bensow, by a regular. Be sure to taste David’s “wine of the week” or let his We recommend the French meat soup, a popular­­ fair beer prices amaze you. dish and another old favorite. Choose your wine Guests can have their say on the wine list of Le Where did the café go? Cha­te­aux des Dix Gouttes and David will make “Don’t be surprised if you can’t find the Don’t be surprised if you can’t find the café after special orders to fulfill their wish­es. In fact, he café after 18:00. Some­­thing happens 18:00. Some­­thing happens around that time that wel­­comes any sug­gestions making the wine list around that time that transforms­­ this trans­­­­forms this little cellar into a French wine one of the more, well-endowed in Reykjavík. He’s little cellar into a French wine room room known as Le Chateaux des Dix Gouttes or the especially interested in serving good Port to his known as Le Chateaux Des dix Gouttes Castle of the Ten Drops. This is a lovely place to sit clientele. or the Castle of the Ten Drops.” and enjoy good win­­es along with cheese, ham or

Check out the ten drops twitt­er feed and find both café and wine room on Facebook.

52 WOW Power to the people Promotion

Kol Restaurant Skólavörðustígur 40 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 517 7474 www. kolrestaurant.is

Cocktails and feel good food at Kol Restaurant Be prepared for a memorable night out at Kol Restaurant.

ituated at Skólavörðustígur 40 in serve craft cocktails from the best ingredients Noma, 28/50 and Texture. Don’t miss out on this Reykjavík,­­­­­­ Kol Restaurant’s design available and offer an ambitious cocktail list to brand new gem on the Reykjavik restaurant scene. con­­­­­cept is a mixture of warm modern begin and complete the dining experience. This is a great place to begin a fun evening. Icelandic feel with international touc­­ The selection is feel good comfort food with a h­­es and the furniture of designer Tom twist on classic cuisine. The menu offers a variety Dixon playing the central role. The of finger food, salads, fish, steaks and dess­­ “Kol Restaurant centers­­ on the bar where restaur­­­­­­­­ ant­­ is on two floors with an open kitchen erts. The head chefs, Einar Hjaltason and Kári the coun­try’s best cock­­tail bar­­tend­­ers S serve craft cocktails from the best in­­ and a mighty bar. Both floors are divided into spac­­ Þorsteinsson,­­­­­ have over 20 years of experience­­­ es with cozy leather couches and a variety of diff­­­er­­ at Reykjavik’s best restaurants as well as work gredi­ents available and offer an ambi­­ ent table settings. Kol Restaurant centers on the ex­­­perience in several known restaurants in London, tious cocktail list to begin and com­­plete bar where the country’s best cocktail bar­­tenders for example Le Manoir Aux Quat’ Saisons, Dabbous, the dining exper­­ience.”

Kol Restaurant Open: Monday-Friday 11:30-23:00 / Saturday-Sunday 17:30-23:00

Issue six 53 Promotion

Den Danske Kro Ingólfsstræti 3 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 552 0070 www.dendanske.is When in Iceland, go Danish!

You know that Iceland used to be a Danish colony, right? Even though independ­­ ence­ from the Danish Crown was necessary, Icelanders still celebrate everything­ Danish, so don’t expect to meet a big Danish crowd at The Danish Pub, they are all Icelanders just acting­ like they’re Danish. Really!

his bar has made a name for itself within the pub – an off-the­-wall design in its most and Saturdays. Put your musical knowledge to the in the Reykjavik social scene and is literal sense! test at the Wednesday night pop-quiz; the prizes known locally as Den Danske Kro (we Get carefree or “ligeglad” (lee-glaath), shoot some will surprise you. all just want a reason to speak Danish darts, try the custom­ary Gammel Dansk bitt­ers in public). This popular downtown or catch some live football. Watch the world go by Best local pub in Reykjavík venue serves a remarkable selection on the outside terrace and have a taste of the tra­­ Wherever you‘re from you’ll want to have a great Tof beers in­cluding the famous Danish white beers, ditional smørrebrød­ (fantastic open sandwiches).­­­ time while vis­iting Reykjavík. The people of Reykja­ the darker more malt brews and of course the You can pre-order these delicious snacks for larger vík do anyway, so they flock to The Danish Pub for a tra­­ditional and almost obligatory Tuborg and Carls­­ groups. beer “en øl” dur­­ing the Happy Hour every day from berg. If you come during the Christmas sea­­son you 16-19. The place is crowded and you’re guaran­­teed can taste some of the renowned Christ­­­mas brews, Does this sound too tranquil? to meet some fun, “lee glaath” people. very popular in demand. Just ask for Julebryg The Danish Pub is nothing if not a place to party. (“you-le-bree”). The at­­mos­­phere is easy going and you can choose from a variety of shots and even cocktails if you’re “Get carefree or “ligeglad” (lee-glaath), Do as the Danes do not in the mood for a beer (Does that ever happen?). shoot some darts, try the custom­ary The owners of the Danish Pub strive to create the Gammel Dansk bitt­ers or catch some live true Danish atmos­phere known among the Danes Reminder: If you thought you were in for a quiet football. Watch the world go by on the (and Danish-prone Ice­­landers) as “hyggeligt”. If night guess again, The Danish Pub features live outside terrace and have a taste of the you truly are Danish this can be your “home away music every night with special appearances and traditional smørre­brød (fantastic open from home”. And in this spirit, check out the “house” unad­­vertised happenings on Wednesdays, Fridays sandwiches).”

Opening hours: Sun-Thurs 14:00 – 01:00 and Fri-Sat 14:00 – 05:00

54 WOW Power to the people Promotion

Kaldi Bar Laugavegur 20b 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 581 2200 www.facebook.com/KaldiBarCafe

A breath of fresh air Cool as Kaldi Kaldi Bar is one of Iceland’s most unique bars. An oasis in central Reykjavík.

t might not be spacious but it makes up for it with great relaxing “Kaldi Bar is one of Iceland’s most unique atmos­­­phere in a rustic setting. Besides the congenial atmosphere, bars. An oasis in central Reykjavík. It there’s a great outside seating area in a cozy backyard. Known for might not be spacious but it makes up for its wide collection of local micro brews both on draft and in bottl­es, it with great relaxing atmos­­­phere in Kaldi Bar is very popular among locals who check in at happy hour a rustic setting.” to get their fill of the unfiltered Kaldi brew. IDrop by and get to know everybody, they might even give you some good tips on how to become a local.

Opening Hours Sunday-Thursday: 12:00 noon - 01:00 am Friday & Saturday: 12:00 noon - very late / Price list Beer on draft 0.5 – 1,100 IKR Glass of vine – 1,200 IKR / Happy hour 16:00-19:00 / Beer on draft 0.5 – 650 IKR / Glass of vine – 650 IKR

Issue six 55 Promotion

Kopar Restaurant Geirsgata 3 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 567 2700 www.koparrestaurant.is / [email protected]

Kopar Restaurant by the old harbor Kopar Restaurant is situated by Reykjavik‘s romantic harbor, in one of the old green fisherman‘s huts.

he fishing industry still thrives in Reykja­­­ you dine at Kopar. Kopar is a seafood restaurant Delight yourself with great service and atmosphere, vik, so the old harbor is full of life. In the featuring locally caught seafood and crustaceans. delicious food and the best view in town. When morning, fishermen go out to sea and They are especially proud of their crab soup, made visiting Reykjavik, enjoying a night out at Kopar is return later with their catch of the day. with Icelandic rock crab from Hvalfjordur. Kopar a must. As you stand on the pier you can feel offers a variety of Icelandic produce, including wild the history of Reykjavik and watch the game, although the main emphasis is seafood, the harbor life: fishing boats, fishermen, the catch, and fruit of the ocean. “Kopar‘s head chef, Ylfa, is a member of T the gold medal winning national culinary young kids with their rods trying their luck off the Kopar‘s head chef, Ylfa, is a member of the gold pier. Meanwhile passersby are walking about and medal winning national culinary team. She pre­­­ team. She prepares the seafood in a enjoying life. This fresh and energetic atmosphere pares the seafood in a unique and delicate manner, unique and delicate manner, intent on of the old harbor is all part of the experience when in­­tent on giving you an unforgetable experience. giving you an unforgetable experience.”

Kopar Restaurant Opening hours - Mondays to Thursday from 11:30-22:30 - Fridays from 11:30-23:30 - Saturdays from 12:00-23:30 - Sundays from 18:00-22:30

56 WOW Power to the people Amazing 7 course menu

A unique Icelandic Feast

Starts with a shot of the Icelandic national spirit “Brennivín“ Puffin – Smoked puffin with blueberries, croutons, goat cheese, beetroot Minke whale – Minke whale with tataki Arctic charr – “Torched“ arctic charr with parsnip purée, fennel, dill mayo Lobster – Lobster cigar with chorizo, dates, chili jam Reindeer – Reindeer slider with blue cheese, portobello, steamed bun Free range icelandic lamb – Lamb with coriander, pickled red cabbage, fennel, butternut squash purée, chimichurri And to end on a high note ... Icelandic Skyr – Skyr panna cotta with raspberry sorbet, white chocolate crumble, passion foam, dulche de leche

7.590 kr. Our kitchen is open Sushi Samba 17.00–23.00 sun.–thu. Þingholtsstræti 5 • 101 Reykjavík 17.00–24.00 fri.–sat. Tel 568 6600 • sushisamba.is

taste the best of iceland ...... in one amazing meal icelandic gourmet feast

Starts with a shot of the infamous Icelandic spirit Brennívín Followed by seven delicious tapas

Smoked puffin with blueberry “brennivín” sauce Icelandic sea-trout with peppers-salsa Lobster tails baked in garlic Pan-fried line caught blue ling with lobster-sauce Grilled Icelandic lamb Samfaina Minke Whale with cranberry & malt-sauce late night dining White chocolate "Skyr" mousse with passion Our kitchen is open fruit coulis until 23:30 on weekdays Kopar Restaurant and 01:00 on weekends 7.590 kr. Opening hours - Mondays to Thursday from 11:30-22:30 - Fridays from 11:30-23:30 - Saturdays from 12:00-23:30 - Sundays from 18:00-22:30 RESTAURANT- BAR Vesturgötu 3B | 101 Reykjavík | Tel. 551 2344 | www.tapas.is Promotion

American Bar Austurstræti 8-10 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 571 9999 Mobile: +354 697 9003 Find us on Facebook/AmericanBarIceland

American Bar American Bar captures the American spirit; land of the free, home of the brave with a unique selection of beer and a simple yet delicious menu. American Bar is a must-visit when in Reykjavik.

Beer selection second to none dance floor on weekends and dance into the crazy is simple, yet delicious. The hamburgers, ribs and With more than 50 different kinds of beer you are Reykjavik night. If you are feeling lucky you can chicken wings are well-known to the locals for sure to find the beer that suits your taste. There’s always spin the Wheel of Fortune. being unique and tasty. beer made in the Hawaiian Islands as well as beer Must see that game in the English PL or the Lunch or dinner, live music or dancing, beer or made from the famous Icelandic water. Champions League? You will be well taken care of cocktails; the American Bar has it all and is truly at the American Bar. HD-screens and TVs in every worth the visit! Location and experience corner make sure that you won’t miss one second Located at the heart of Reykjavik, American Bar of your favorite sport. Life is short—Drink early! is easy to find. Once inside you’ll feel at home right away, especially if you’re an American; with Inside and out—all day long decorations like football helmets (find your favorite With more than 100 seats inside and a great team) and the American flag. outdoor area on the sunny side (for those Located at the heart of Reykjavik, wonderful sunny Icelandic summer days) you will American Bar is easy to find. Once inside Live music, live sport and the always find a seat at a good table. The outside you’ll feel at home right away, especially Wheel of Fortune area is truly remarkable, overlooking Dómkirkjan if you’re an American; with decorations Live music every night brings the right atmosphere Cathedral and Alþingi (Parliament House). When like football helmets (find your favorite and if you want to shake it up a bit you can hit the you think of central Reykjavik this is it! The menu team) and the American flag.

American Bar Open: Mondays to Thursday from 11:00 am - 1:00 am - Fri - Sat: 11:00 am - 4:30 am - Sun: 11:00 am - 1:00 am

58 WOW Power to the people LOFTIÐ // Austurstræti 9 // Second floor facebook.com/loftidbar Issue six 59 Promotion

Reykjavik Fish Tryggvagata 8 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 578 5656 Email: [email protected] www.reykjavikfish.is

Reykjavik Fish In the heart of Reykjavík, right next to the old harbor, you can find Reykjavík Fish, a new restaurant offering ultra-fresh seafood. Ultra-fresh means that the fish you order today was swimming last night.

he menu at Reykjavik Fish is structured recipe is the same as used in the old days except Perfect location and Icelandic seafood to provide hearty portions of quality sea with fresh fish of course. at its finest. Reykjavik Fish has plenty food at very reasonable prices. The crown Perfect location and Icelandic seafood at its of seats and wel­comes everyone, solo jewel of the menu is the spelt battered finest. Reykjavik Fish has plenty of seats and travelers and big groups alike. When you fish and chips; crispy and healthy at the wel­comes everyone, solo travelers and big groups come to Reykjavík and would like to try Tsame time, a perfect meal with a nice Icelandic beer. alike. When you come to Reykjavík and would like a nice fish and chips just look for the big If you’re up for something a little more traditional to try a nice fish and chips just look for the big red red door. Icelandic try the “Plokkari” (plucked fish). Their door.

Reykjavik Fish Open from 11 AM to 10:30 PM

60 WOW Power to the people NOX_A4.pdf 1 18/11/15 12:34

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Issue six 61 Reykjavik

Anchorage

London Amsterdam Paris Seattle Montreal Toronto

San Fransisco Washington, D.C. Los Angeles Canary Islands Miami

IN IT FOR THE LONG HAUL Following the successful launch of our A330-300 FACT SHEET transatlantic routes to Boston and The A330 is the most cost efficient Washington, D.C. / Baltimore WOW air aircraft in its class. will start flying to California starting The A330 has a smaller environmental the summer of 2016. footprint than similar sized aircraft. To fly our guests safely and The A330 has low noise and emission levels efficiently across the Atlantic for a cleaner and quieter flight. Ocean and all the way across the With up to 11,750 km range that covers the entire United States of America, WOW air northern hemisphere when flown from Iceland, will operate three new Airbus the A330 can get us all the way to North America A330-300 aircraft, which are and Asia, North Africa and a part of South America. economical mid-size wide-body The A330-300 will be the biggest jets ever

62jets WOW withPower to the peoplestate of the art technology. used in commercial flights from Iceland.

Reykjavik

Anchorage

London AmsterdamAmsterdam Paris Seattle Montreal Toronto

San Fransisco Washington, D.C. Beijing Tokyo Los Angeles Canary Islands Dubai Miami Delhi

IN IT FOR THE LONG HAUL Following the successful launch of our A330-300A330-300 FACTFACT SHEETSHEET transatlantic routes to Boston and TheThe A330A330 isis thethe mostmost costcost efficientefficient Washington, D.C. / Baltimore WOW air aircraftaircraft inin itsits class.class. WOW air’s A330-300 jets will have seats for will start flying to California starting TheThe A330A330 hashas aa smallersmaller environmentalenvironmental 342-350 guests in a single class configuration. the summer of 2016. footprintfootprint thanthan similarsimilar sizedsized aircraft.aircraft. WOW air’s A330-300 were manufactured in To fly our guests safely and TheThe A330A330 hashas lowlow noisenoise andand emissionemission levelslevels 2015 and 2010 and have a state of the art efficiently across the Atlantic forfor aa cleanercleaner andand quieterquieter flight.flight. technology when it comes to navigation. Ocean and all the way across the WithWith upup toto 11,75011,750 kmkm rangerange thatthat coverscovers thethe entireentire The A330 aircraft are among the most popular United States of America, WOW air northernnorthern hemispherehemisphere whenwhen flownflown fromfrom Iceland,Iceland, aircraft for many of the aviation industry’s will operate three new Airbus thethe A330A330 cancan getget usus allall thethe wayway toto NorthNorth AmericaAmerica leaders around the world. A330-300 aircraft, which are andand Asia,Asia, NorthNorth AfricaAfrica andand aa partpart ofof SouthSouth America.America. economical mid-size wide-body TheThe A330-300A330-300 willwill bebe thethe biggestbiggest jetsjets everever WE LOOK FORWARD TO WELCOMING YOU ON BOARD jets with state of the art technology. usedused inin commercialcommercial flightsflights fromfrom Iceland.Iceland. Issue six 63

Warm and cozy Tryggvaskáli Tryggvaskáli is a restaurant in Selfoss, South Holiday sea- Iceland perfectly situated at about 45 minutes’ drive from Reykjavik with great spots for Aurora son and high viewing in all directions. Great chefs along with their friendly staff are sure to give you a real winter gourmet experience in this truly wonderful place. Make this your outside-of-the-city-stop for a fine Winter is a time to disappear into warm cozy places dining experience before hunting for the with friends and loved ones. Dream of Aurora Bore- Northern Lights. alis and hope to avoid the polar bears and the crazy Austurvegi 2 Vikings. Kári Gunnlaugsson at eatsandsleeps.is has 800 Selfoss, Iceland www.tryggvaskali.is some recommendations for you. by Kári Gunnlaugsson Photos: Courtesy of respective restaurants Kjallarinn Tucked away in a basement in the heart of the city is this quality restaurant. If langoustine laced with foi gras followed by a great steak and a collection of gin impressive enough to take down an empire within original stone walls sounds good then this is your place. A great place to wine and dine the evening away with good friends or a special someone.

Aðalstræti 2 www.kjallarinn.is 101 Reykjavík

64 WOW Power to the people Matur og drykkur Probably the most original place in town and in a good way too. A menu based on a classic Icelandic cookbook “Matur og drykkur” (Food and drink), with some very cool chefs bringing it all back home and at the same time making both their teachers and grannies proud. Here’s the only place in the world where the menu just isn’t supposed to sound as good as the food actually is; a real Icelandic experience.

www.maturogdrykkur.is Grandagarður 2 Skólavörðustíg 14 101 Reykjavík 101 Reykjavík

Sjávargrillið A sweet place halfway down the road from the big church. Seafood is really good and their combinations Fish Company will hit spot. Take your group here A cozy little place situated under a bridge. A fun menu and ask for the downstairs which takes you around Iceland or around the world; as you like. should do the trick for a good You might start feeling that you are in a novel or a movie night out. You are also on top of here but rest assured this is real and you’re in good hands. the Reykjavik bar trail so get your These are warm dark surroundings set up for a bellyful and then plan that crossing romantic evening. of the Rubicon.

www.fishcompany.is www.sjavargrillid.is Vesturgötu 2a Grófartorg - 101 Reykjavík

Issue six 65 The Vatnajökull region The Vatnajökull region is filled with con­­ this precious product as well as other local spe­­ trast in the nature with its black beaches, cialties year round. Höfn is also a great base for white glaciers, red volcanoes, green birch forest exploring the magnificent Vatnajökull National Land of Ice and blue Atlantic Ocean. Serenity, energy and Park... and be sure to drop by at the park’s forces of na­­ture combine to make a visit to the Visitor Center in the beautiful historical building, realm of Vatna­­jökull a never-to-be-forgotten Gamlabúð, by the harbor. and Fire experience. Activity, accommodation and restaurants Wild at heart Much of the activity in the realm of Vatnajökull In the realm of Vatnajökull you Wildlife is rich in the Vatnajökull region with revolves around the glacier and the nature find the real reason why Iceland thousands of migrating birds such as puffins around it. You can choose between glacier walks got its name. The area is dominated and the arctic tern passing through, especially in and ice climbing, a thrilling snowmobile ride by Vatnajökull Glacier which is the the spring and summer. Herds of reindeers are on Vatnajökull or a largest glacier in the world out- also a common sight in the region and if you’re Have you ever comfortable tour side the arctic regions. There you lucky you’ll spot a seal at Jökulsárlón Lagoon or imagined looking of Europe’s largest also find some of Iceland’s most an arctic fox running through the land. You will inside a glacier? Winter ice cap in a super popular tourist attractions such also find dozens of companies that offer all sorts in the Vatnajökull jeep. The area also as the spectacular Jökulsárlón of activities year round, diverse accommodation region offers the offers ATV tours and Glacier Lagoon, Skaftafell, which and great restaurants with local food. opportunity of such geothermal baths is the jewel in Vatnajökull Nation- unique and memorable at Hoffell, reindeer al Park and Hvannadalshnúkur, the Winter paradise experience! excursions, a visit to highest peak in Iceland and a popu- The Vatnajökull region is in the southeast of the Thorbergssetur lar hike. Iceland spanning over 200 km of the Ring Road Cultural Museum, from Lómagnúpur in the west to Hvalnes in the a local mineral stone collection, the local hand­­ east. It covers the accessible southern side icraft store, the petting zoo at Hólmur and much of the Vatnajökull glaciers and photography more. en­­thusiasts should find the Vatnajökull region There are various possibilities in accom­­mo­­ particularly delightful as it provides countless dations to suit different needs and you’ll be magnificent views of the glaciers and mountains sure to find a warm welcome by knowledgeable in daylight and also after dusk settles especially hosts. Several restaurants are in the area when the Aurora Borealis light up the sky. and most of them offer local food made in the Have you ever imagined looking inside a Vatnajökull region. Be sure to ask for the local glacier? Winter in the Vatnajökull region offers beer Vatnajökull, which is brewed from icebergs the opportunity of such unique and memorable­­­ in Jökulsárlón and the local herb arctic thyme. experience! A trip into the ice caves of Vatna­­ jökull’s southern crawling glaciers is an adventure Accessible year round that no one should miss. The col­ors and refracted The Vatnajökull region is well accessible the Photos: Þorvarður Árnason light in the ice reveal a world of true wonders, whole year round due to good weather conditions providing a thrill for any photo­­graphy enthusiast. and frequent transportation. Eagle Air has a Local guides who know every crevice of the glacier daily flight from Reykjavík to Höfn Airport during seek out caves formed during­­ the winter months the summer and five days a week during other and offer tours. Travel­­ers should only go on such seasons. Buses between Reykjavík and Höfn trips under their guidance. (Strætó) are scheduled daily throughout the year. There are also three car rental companies Höfn – culture and cuisine! in Höfn. v There is one town in the area—Höfn, a lively fishing town with a population of 1800. Höfn is known for being the lobster capital of Iceland For more information check out where you can find lovely restaurants offering www.visitvatnajokull.is.

66 WOW Power to the people For more information check out www.visitvatnajokull.is.

Issue six 67 68 WOW Power to the people Take a hike Love, passion and more in Reykjavík When you take a walk you have a choice. You can empty your mind and think about nothing; you can also let your mind dwell on the past. A third option is to take a walk and absorb stories and places of Reykjavík spiced with love and passion and other good things, and that‘s what we are about to do.

Text and photos by Einar Skulason

The Hljómskálagarður Park sta­tue was blown up in the middle of the We start in the women’s corner in night and until this day it is not known who the sculpture world of Reykjavík in the was responsible for the vandalism. Let’s Hljómskálagarður Park. It was decided hope that this one will be left in peace. to dedicate this part of the park to the memory of six female sculpture pioneers in Iceland. Let’s take a better look at two of them: Gunnfríður Jónsdóttir was from Blönduós in the north of Iceland. She was educated as a seamstress but had a dream to become a sculptress and at the age of 41 she finally made her first statue. After that she never looked back, making 35 statues in her career. One of the statues, Homeward Bound (Á heimleið) is from 1947. Many years earlier Gunnfríður had witnessed a very homesick girl whose image had stayed with her and was the Hólavallagarður Cemetery at inspiration behind the statue. Suðurgata When you walk around the cemetery and read the descriptions on the tombstones you find signs of memories, loss and, most importantly, love. Hólavallagarður was inaugurated in 1838 and served the citizens of Reykjavík, but became full around 1932. Since then two other ceme­­­teries have been built. The number of known graves in Hólavallagarður is Have you ever did he know … As the tree grew bigger it close to eleven thousand. The author asked yourself if started earning admiration, and in 1994 Þórbergur Þórðarson (1889-1974) named it’s possi­­­ble to love it was no surprise to tree lovers when it the current Suðurgata “Kærligheds­­ ­­ a tree? When the was selected Tree of the Year in Iceland Nína Sæmundsson was the youngest stígur” (Love Street) in one of his books merchant Nicolaj by the Icelandic Forestry Association. of 15 siblings in a poor family who got and described how couples took their Bjarnason planted Nicolaj’s garden is long gone but the tree to visit her aunt in Copenhagen and was rom­antic walks past the cemetery. Let’s this sycamore stays in the corner of the parking lot. A coincidentally given a lump of clay to work walk Love Street and visit a tree. maple tree (Acer few years earlier in 1989 the owner of with; from then her future was set. She pseudoplatanus) in the site wanted to build a house in the lived and worked in Rome, Florence, Paris, 1917 it was probably parking lot and of course the architects New York and Los Angeles and sculpted The sycamore maple tree in just a simple designed a rounded shape of the corner the Mermaid in 1948 in her Hollywood Suðurgata attempt to make his of the building next to the lovely tree to studio. In 1959, an earlier version of the Have you ever asked yourself if it’s possi­­­ garden look better. make space for it. Nothing has been built Mermaid was purchased by the city of ble to love a tree? When the merchant though, at least not yet. Reykjavík and put into the Reykjavík pond Nicolaj Bjarnason planted this sycamore Next, we walk past the parliament near the bank. Not everyone agreed with maple tree (Acer pseudoplatanus) in 1917 where daily demonstrations took the location and many voiced their anger it was probably just a simple attempt place in January 2009 and head up in the media. A few months later the to make his garden look better. Little Skólavörðustígur to visit the past.

Issue six 69 Café Mokka offers the best atmosphere. When you go Some love the old times and complain in the lavatory on the first floor you are in when things change. If you are one of for an appreciated surprise, at least if you those, Café Mokka will welcome you are a Star Wars fan. with open arms and protect you from the ever changing times. The interior hasn’t changed in Café Mokka since 1958. Go there and write that poem you should have written ages ago. Have a hot chocolate and a waffle and put whipped cream on both. Live a little.

Fótógrafí Next door to Babalu is a small photo gallery. Ari, the gallery’s owner was a news reporter in his previous life but grew weary of that and decided to follow his passion and work on photographs. If you ask him he will probably say he doesn’t have a passion for photography but his photos of the daily life in Reykjavík are the best we’ve seen. The one with the old lady walking past the vulgar graffiti statement is classic.

Love Balls at Kaffibrennslan Café For those of you who are in the endless and sometimes agitating search for love, look no further! Go into the Kaffibrennslan Café and ask for an “ástarpungur” [au:sdarphYnga] (love ball). They taste good and make you instantly When you take a happy. So go ahead, make your day, these walk you have a little bundles of joy are yours for only choice. You can 290 ISK a piece. This kind of lovemaking empty your mind should be practic­­ed sparsely since an and think about excess eating of love balls won’t do your nothing; you can heart any favors in the long run, but a walk also let your mind up Klappar­­stígur will do you good now. Hotel Holt dwell on the past. If I you feel exceptionally full of yourself A third option is you I might dress up in black and white to take a walk and (sort of Dean Martin style) and head absorb stories and for Hotel Holt, one of Reykjavik’s most places of Reykjavík. renowned hotel. Walk into the lobby, slowly because there are beautiful paintings gracing the walls. The hotel has the largest private collection of Icelandic paintings in Iceland (or in the world for that matter) and boasts of more than 600, many of them by the old masters. If you continue straight into the lounge you will see the gem-drawings of common people made by our beloved Babalu Café Kjarval (1885-1972). Look closer and The owner of Babalu Café, Glenn, is compare the drawings and you will from New York and moved to Iceland in realize that he liked some of his models 2004 to marry his Icelandic boyfriend, more than the others. However, his real Þórhallur. Obviously he moved to Iceland passion was nature. He spent weeks for love, right? There is always an easy and weeks every summer painting the going and pleasant atmosphere at Babalu landscape, not least, the lava. He loved This Reykjavik walk is just one of the available walks Café. Probably nothing in there comes everything about nature and preferred and hikes in the Wapp - Walking app, available for free from IKEA, it looks more like Glenn has not having people around when he had in Playstore and Appstore. been shopping at Góði hirðirinn (Good these rendezvous. Shepherd), a second hand household store If you love whisky, like Dean Martin did, in town. Babalu may not be Reykjavik’s the selection of the bar in Hotel Holt is most posh café but it most definitely one of the best in Iceland. v

70 WOW Power to the people ICEWEAR offers an extensive collection of clothing for the outdoor enthusiast, ranging from high-tech down jackets to unique wool products made in Iceland. We strive to offer colors and cuts in line with the latest trends, quality materials and competitive prices.

icelandic design since 1972 Issue six 71 WWW.ICEWEAR.IS The Nordic House in Reykjavík One of Alvar Aalto’s gems The Finnish modernist architect Alvar Aalto designed the Nordic House in Reykjavík. The building stands by a blue pond and under the blue sky that is a blue rooftop like the dot over the “i.” The ultra- marine blue ceramic rooftop takes its shape from the mountain row in the background. It’s truly a work of art. by Svava Jónsdóttir Photos: Kristinn Magnússon

The Nordic House is like a gem near the center of the capital of Iceland. From the windows you can enjoy a beautiful scene showing part of the residential area in old Reykjavik, Hall­­­ grímskirkja Church which stands like a guardian, protecting the city, the mountains in the background and of course, a wide open and largely unobstructured view of the sky. Sometimes you can see some geese near the house or white swans swimming in the little pond in front of it.

The world within The Nordic House in Reykjavík opened in 1968. It is one of Finnish modernist architect Alvar Aalto’s designs and is a testament to his extraordinary ability to harmonize carefully crafted constructions with the physical environment. Inside, the house is bright and modern, yet stylistically classic. In the central space, daylight comes through a dome-shaped skylight that is spread over the ceiling. From the central space you can go to the concert/conference auditorium, the While the Nordic office wing, the house’s restaurant and House stands like a the library that’s like a world of its own. Nordic fortress near the The goal has always been to foster University of Iceland and and support cultural connections the Reykjavik Domestic be­­tween Iceland and the other Nordic Airport, there’s a lot of countries and in the library there are open, undeveloped area only books in the Nordic languages around it including a by Nordic authors as well as various pond nearby. magazines from the Nordic countries. No, they don’t forget the children—in the library there is the Children’s Library Grotto where the young ones can find novels and technical books in all the seven Nordic languages: Icelandic, Faroese, Danish, Norwegian, Swedish, Finnish and Greenlandic.

Aalto who? Alvar Aalto (1898-1976), who was one of the most noted architects of the 20th century didn’t just design the house. All installed furnishings and lamps in the Nordic House, as well as most of the furniture, are his designs. Even though the cultural institution was opened in 1968, 47 years ago, it is quite modern and this can be said about the furniture as well. There’s a shop inside the Nordic House where you can buy Nordic design. And the restaurant, Aalto Bistro, that emphasizes unusual ingredients while “flirting with Scandinavian cuisine with a Central- European influence.” Definitely worth a try.

72 WOW Power to the people Inside and out You can enjoy this magnificent architectural showpiece both inside and out. While the Nordic House stands like a Nordic fortress near the University of Iceland and the Reykjavik Domestic Airport, there’s a lot of open, undeveloped area around it including a pond nearby. The pond and grounds adjacent to it are all part of a nature reserve, set in the midst of Reykjavik’s city center that serves as home to a variety of birds. Yes, the Nordic House, the beautiful nature and the vibrant city center; there’s lots to enjoy! v

Osushi is a unique restaurant­ in Iceland. The method­­ of dining involves snatching small plates from a conveyor belt. Pricing is distinguished by the color and pattern of the plate – most range between 230 - 440 ISK.

Everything off the con­vey­­or belt is tasty and if you don’t really fancy sushi, you can instead choose for ex­­ample teriyaki chicken, noodle salad, tempura and desserts.

The vibe in Osushi is friendly and relaxed. The restaurant is located almost next door to Althingi (the parliament) which is in the heart of the city.

osushi.is

smiðjust.

Hverfisgata

Vitast.

Baldursgata

bragagata

Pósthússtræti 13 / Borgartúni 29 / Reykjavíkurvegur 60 HF. Tel: 561 0562 / www.osushi.isNjarðargata

Issue six 73

sæmundargata

oddagata WOW design Lopapeysa - The Icelandic sweater by Gerður Harðardóttir Photo: Courtesy of Farmers Market

The origins of the Today shops catering to tourists offer sweater is shrouded various versions of the Icelandic sweater The Icelandic sheep is one tough cookie, having, since the Viking in mystery in different shapes and sizes. You will be settle­ment of Iceland in the second half of the 9th century, had to although it has able to find sweaters of different colors adjust to and survive the volatile and harsh climate that frequently been suggested although the traditional colors of the ravages the North Atlantic. that its design Icelandic sheep (black, brown, white and is based on the gray) probably remain the most popular. national costume The sweaters are available in a myriad The fleece of Iceland’s robust and Redesigning the Icelandic sweater of Greenland or of patterns, with or without zippers or stocky sheep is dual-coated and The fact that the sweaters have become Swedish textile buttons, with and without hoods and as a key factor in its ability to survive the fashion items of late, even worn with patterns popular vests or ponchos. In many shops you will extreme weather conditions in Iceland. dresses on special occasions, can largely in mid-20th be able to pick up a sweater accompanied “Þel” (pronounced thel) are the soft warm be credited to designer Bergþóra Magnús­­ century’s women’s with info on the woman who actually insulating fibers next to the body of the dóttir of Farmers Market who infuses in magazines. knitted it. Yes, to some, the Icelandic sheep whereas “tog” are the water repel­ the hugely popular fashion brand natural sweater is, and will only be, truly authentic lent fibers on the surface. Processed materials, traditions and designs with Icelandic if it’s hand-knitted by an Ice­ together þel and tog make up “lopi,” a type fashionable and trendy designer items. landic woman in Iceland. v of knitting wool that is unique to Iceland. The wool from the Icelandic sheep is exceptionally warm (even when wet) and has kept us warm and comfy throughout the centuries.

And then came the sweaters The Icelandic sweater, “lopapeysa,” (lopi meaning wool and peysa meaning sweater) with its distinctive circular yoke pattern, has become quite iconic for Iceland. But if you thought that the Icelandic sweater as you know it has been worn by Icelandic farmers and fishermen HÚSIÐ / SÍA HVÍTA through the centuries, with patterns being handed down from mothers to daughters like a treasured family heirloom, you are dead wrong, for it wasn’t until the 1950s that the Icelandic sweater was born. The origins of the sweater is shrouded in mystery although it has been suggested that its design is based on the national costume of Greenland or Swedish textile patterns popular in mid-20th century’s women’s magazines. What is known for sure is that Icelandic women began knitting the distinctive wool sweaters around the time of the World War II when yarn was scarce in Iceland.

A nation’s symbol I LIKE TAKING MY TIME WITH In the 1960s, the export of the Icelandic sweaters developed into a lucrative SHOPPING, SO I ORDER ONLINE business and the Icelandic “lopapeysa” became symbolic for Iceland, its heritage THEN ALL I HAVE TO DO IS PICK UP MY ORDER and culture. In the last few years, the Icelandic sweater has become quite the fashion item especially after the economic Save both time and effort by using the Duty Free Express service. meltdown in 2008 when it became a Discounts are available regardless of what passport you may hold symbol of Iceland’s identity during this or which country you are flying to or from. time when morale was at a low ebb. During these tough times, a strong urge to return to our roots, heritage and traditional values swept the country, which resulted Order online and pick up at the Duty Free Store. in many Icelanders starting to handcraft www.dutyfree.is products of local materials such as the Icelandic wool.

74 WOW Power to the people HVÍTA HÚSIÐ / SÍA HVÍTA

I LIKE TAKING MY TIME WITH SHOPPING, SO I ORDER ONLINE THEN ALL I HAVE TO DO IS PICK UP MY ORDER

Save both time and effort by using the Duty Free Express service. Discounts are available regardless of what passport you may hold or which country you are flying to or from.

Order online and pick up at the Duty Free Store. www.dutyfree.is

Issue six 75 WOW entrepreneurs The future of banking is now Recession what? Like many other countries, Iceland felt the fallout from the eco- nomic crisis that sent shockwaves around the globe in 2008; however resilience seems to be encoded into the genes of most Icelanders. From the chaos that ensued, one of Iceland’s most interesting startups and now leading innovative companies came into existence. by Marvin Lee Dupree Photos: Courtesy of Meniga

The company in question is Meniga, Technology can improve lives one of the major issues of our time as way the brainchild of its CEO, Georg Lúð­ As is customary one cannot help but be Today, Meniga’s too many people in every country lower víksson. I had a brief chat with him about curious about the genesis and the philoso­­ software powers the quality of their lives needlessly by this innovative company and Meniga’s phy of a trailblazing company such as per­sonal finance overspending or worrying about money— phenomenal growth. Meniga, so I asked George to explain how management and this is almost independent of their it came into being. “From a young age I was solutions in income. Meet Meniga the one advising friends and family on all online banks of “Money worries are one of the major Meniga is one of the numerous companies sorts of money issues, such as what kind many of Europe’s causes of divorce, depression and that sprung forth out of the financial crisis of mortgage to take and how to think about lead­­ing banks. absenteeism from work.” Adding to this and large swaths of its talented ranks it. I also believed I could build much better Georg says: “I was living in Boston for my came from the collapsed banking industry. money management software than what MBA back in 2006-2008. At the time a With its initial launch in Iceland back in was available 10 or 15 years ago. I’m an new generation of money management 2009, Meniga was one of the first personal entrepreneur at heart and Meniga is the solutions emerged in the USA with comp­­ finance management solutions within 3rd company I’ve started. Of the three it is anies such as Mint.com and Wesabe.com. Europe and attracted plenty of satisfied the one closest to my heart because I have I immediately knew I wanted to be part customers from the beginning. As of today always been passionate about helping of this revolution and when I moved back its solutions can be found in 16 different people manage their money. To me this is to Iceland for family reasons in the fall countries. With a customer base of over 25 million, it has offices in Reykjavík, Stock­- h­olm and London. Today, Meniga’s software powers per­ sonal finance management solutions in online banks of many of Europe’s lead­­ing banks, such as Commerzbank, Skandia­­ banken, ING Direct in Spain, Santan­der, Standard Bank and many more. Ever since its foundation, Meniga has received num­­erous accolades, with its newest recognition being prestigious awards such as the Finovate Best of the Show 2015, where they beat a large pool of inter­­na­­ tional competitors, as well as receiving the award for the best technical solution in the category of business and commerce at the UN World Summit Award.

The company in question is Meniga, the brainchild of its CEO, Georg Lúðvíksson.

76 WOW Power to the people of 2008 I came with the idea of starting a Europe-focused personal finance software company.”

Innovation is recession proof During our chat, Georg explained to me how the financial crisis helped pave the way for Meniga because the new banks, which had arisen from the ashes of the previous ones, were under pressure to give relief to Icelandic households that had seen a significant dip in purchasing power. One of them, Íslandsbanki, decided to trust Meniga, even though they were just a small startup, and as a result became one of the first banks in Europe to offer comprehensive personal finance management solutions as part of its online bank platform in 2009. George also explains how the atmosphere after the financial crisis was just right for Meniga: “Many of Iceland’s best software devel­ opers who had been working for the banks were now looking for new opportunities and most of our initial team came from the banks, including Meniga’s CTO and co- founder, who had been leading the devel­ opment of the online banking of Ice­land’s largest bank, Landsbankinn.”

Meniga’s software behavior we are making quite a difference. functions and various personalized in­ gives its users a better Iceland is probably not very different from sights as well as to advise people on how oversight of their other countries but I believe financial they can improve their financial behavior spending and income. behavior and literacy have improved in and become smarter consumers. People’s recent years and that Meniga has been a data; spending history, financial behavior part of that improvement. When we survey and economic situation, play a key role our users in Iceland, almost half say they in being able to provide a personalized A shift in financial habits in If you want have improved their financial behavior and compelling user experience. We pride Iceland? to make your since they started using our solutions. This ourselves on our core competence which It is apparent that both personal finance per­sonal fin­ is something we are very proud of.” is analyzing data and presenting it to and finance literacy are crucial for in­ ances easy users in an intuitive way. Furthermore, creasing people’s quality of life—and it and attractive The nuts and bolts of it all transparency in how data is being used is something Georg is passionate about. and gain more Of course, these goals are all fine and and making sure people’s privacy is always Naturally, I had to ask him if he thinks that oversight, look dandy but to a layperson this might seem respected are key priorities of Meniga.” there had been a paradigm shift in these no further. idea­listic, so I inquired from Georg how If you want to make your personal matters within the country because of his company actually achieves these lofty finances easy and attractive and gain more the financial crash: “Too many people live aspirations: “Meniga’s way to market is to oversight, look no further. Meniga will guide beyond their means and have effectively no sell to and partner with banks to help them you into the future of personalized banking rainy-day fund. If we can help only a small expand their online and mobile banking and finance, check it out at share of our users improve their financial to include personal finance management www.meniga.com. v

Issue six 77 Reykjavik

Stockholm

Copenhagen Vilnius Dublin London Berlin Warsaw Bristol Amsterdam Düsseldorf Montreal Paris Milan Salzburg Toronto Lyon Boston Barcelona Nice Rome San Fransisco Washington, D.C. Alicante Los Angeles

Tenerife Gran Canaria

CONNECTING THE CONTINENTS WOW IS IN THE AIR! 78 WOW Power to the people Reykjavik

Stockholm

Copenhagen Vilnius Dublin London Berlin Warsaw Bristol Amsterdam Düsseldorf Montreal Paris Milan Salzburg Toronto Lyon Boston Barcelona Nice Rome San Fransisco Washington, D.C. Alicante Los Angeles

Tenerife Gran Canaria

CONNECTING THE CONTINENTS WOW IS IN THE AIR! Issue six 79 Destination Canada Montreal on a roll Come spring, bikers emerge from the cold Montreal winter like so many butterflies from cocoons. They’re commuters, leisure bikers, and tourists. The appeal is obvious with the summer temperature generally in the 70s (21°C), although it can be humid and the occasional summer day can reach into the high 90s (32°C).

by Judy Colbert Photos: Thinkstockphotos.com

It’s easy to ride around Montreal, with more Montreal, particularly along the Montreal is well-re­ London. With 5,360 three-speed bikes than 600 kilometers (almost 400 miles) of bike biking routes. Note that you can take cognized as one of located at 452 docking stations around paths in and around the city. With fairly flat terrain the metro rapid transit system to the most bike- town, you’re almost always within a that lets you go from straight to winding, parkland to your starting point because bikes are friendly cities in few blocks of a station. city streets, and scenic to historic, courteous motor welcome in the last car of each train. the world. Rates for 2015 were C$2.75 for a vehicle drivers and numerous bike rental facilities If you want something more one-way pass, C$5 for a 24-hour pass, there’s also plenty to see and do along the way. organized, check the Montreal and C$12 for a 72-hour pass. Each one Look around and you’ll realize that Quebec’s Route activities calendar for bicycle events. of these options is based on 30-minute Verte is the longest cycling path in North America They include a Go Bike Montreal use, with extra fees charged after that and the Trans Canada Trail is the world’s longest Festival (from late May to early June) amount of time. In other words, schedule recreational trail. Montreal is well-recognized as that has something for locals and your trips to be under 30 minutes by one of the most bike-friendly cities in the world. visitors of all skill levels and ages, places you want to see or visit or have including short films about urban a coffee/lunch break near where you The Les Berge Cycle Path biking, a fashion show, and even a can turn in your bike. After turning it A favorite bike route is a waterfront look that starts Ferris wheel. Bike-in parties are held in wait about two minutes until the at Atwater Market (a great indoor/outdoor market, along the Lachine Canal, a Bicycle system has reset and you can use your

open at 7 am daily, with food stalls to stock up for Film Festival, and a Grand Prix des Cyclistes in bike (or another one) again; a little convoluted, your energy boosts) and offers a number of options September. The basic premise is promoting the but workable. The rental season runs from April depending on your stamina and available time. The idea of touring the city via bicycle. through November, depending on the weather. 21-kilometer Les Berge Cycle Path parallels the St. Other companies rent by the day or longer (or Lawrence River with views of the Lachine Rapids Rent a bike shorter) so you don’t have to worry about docking and Saint-Pierre Lake. You’ll be joined by inline As you may not be traveling with your bike, you your bike every 30 minutes. Some also offer guided skaters and, in the winter, cross-country skiers. At have several rental options. The biggest is Bixi tours of various lengths and difficulty. Whether the end of the path, you can detour to the Rene- Montreal (a portmanteau of bike and taxi – your tastes are pastoral or urban, when you want Levesque Park with picnic tables and resident montreal.bixi.com). The company started renting to combine sightseeing with enjoying nature birds, including great herons. Then hookup with the bikes in Montreal in 2009 and now has branches and meeting new best friends forever, try biking Lachine Canal path going north and head back into in 17 cities and universities including Boston and through Montreal. v central Montreal.

The cycling scene Check the Velo Montreal website for suggested bike routes, whether you just want to find an easy Bring your bike to Montreal or rent one when you get there. WOW air starts flying to Canada in May way to get from Point A to Point B or do a lot of 2016 offering four flights a week all year round. exploring. No need to worry about stopping for Cool Canada awaits. lunch or a snack because food trucks abound in Find cheap flights to Montreal from Europe at wowair.com.

80 WOW Power to the people Montreal on a roll

Issue six 81 Destination Canada 12 reasons to visit Toronto There is no place in the world like Toronto, a city chock-full of unexpected and unique experiences. Sure, comparison to the world’s other great cities can be flattering, but there really are great things to do, see and eat here.

by Cindy-Lou Dale Photos: Thinkstockphotos.com and Cindy-Lou Dale

1. Toronto is home to Casa Loma, The puck stops here streets in 1967 and combines wildly North America’s only real, full- for hockey fans. The crea­tive and colorful costumes with size castle, which spreads out over Hockey Hall of Fame soca, calypso, salsa, steel-pan and 98 rooms, complete with medieval features the world’s reggae artists along a 1½ km route. turrets, gorgeous gardens and secret largest collection of passageways. hockey memorabilia, 3. The Fairmont Royal York was the including the Stanley first hotel in the world to make its Cup. own honey on its rooftop. Now its apiary is home to 300,000 bees that produce more than 363 kg of honey annually.

4. Bono, Madonna and George Clooney have attended TIFF (Toronto Inter­­national Film Festival). The annu­­ 2. Feel the heat at North America’s al celebration attracts more than biggest Caribbean festival. The Scotia­­ 400,000 moviegoers to films from For more infor­­ma­tion on bank Caribbean Carnival Toronto is a Toronto check out over 65 countries. It’s North America’s­­­ grand-scale shindig that first hit the www.seetorontonow.com. most important film festival.

82 WOW Power to the people 5. Take yourself out to the ball game. The Blue Jays 11. Go fish. On Toronto’s doorstep you can relax are Canada’s only Major League Baseball team. with a pole in hand and hope for a great catch. Tour the Rogers Centre, home to the world’s first The salmon—especially Chinook and Atlantic fully retractable roof. An awe-inspiring feat of varieties—are abundant in the Credit River with engineering, it opens or closes in 20 minutes and is prime spots including Forks of the Credit Provincial 31 floors high. Park near Brampton and the harbor in Port Credit in Mississauga, where the river empties into Lake 6. The puck stops here for hockey fans. The Hockey Ontario. It’s urban fishing at its best. Hall of Fame features the world’s largest collection of hockey memorabilia, including the Stanley Cup. 12. Sole-searching begins here. The Bata Shoe Museum boasts the world’s most comprehensive 7. Want your thrills on a large scale? Meet collection of footwear and related artefacts. Leviathan, the country’s fastest (148 km/h), steepest (80-degree drop), tallest (93.3 m) roller Before you leave, be sure to take in Kensington coaster at Canada’s Wonderland. Market—a story of immigrants and the best place to experience the city’s animated multiculturalism; 8. Welcome to a Land Down Under. PATH is the a neighborhood alive with street art; scruffy alleys world’s largest underground walkway, linking 28 km and independent stores, bars and food stalls with of shopping, restaurants, services and businesses, food from around the world. and encompassing approximately 1,200 stores.

9. The Gardiner Museum of Ceramic Art is the only museum in North America that focuses exclusively on ceramics. There are of course many more great reasons to visit Toronto and here’s one: WOW air now 10. Ride the red rocket, as streetcars are known offers cheap flights to Toronto and will start flying there in May 2016. in Toronto. Hop on board the 501 Queen streetcar, anytime day or night, and enjoy the 24.8 km ride— Find a cheap flight to Toronto from Europe at wowair.com. the longest route in North America. Issue six 83 New destination Stockholm – nature and nightlife

WOW air is adding the beautiful city of Stockholm to its schedule in May 2016. Built on 14 islands, Stockholm is often called Venice of the North and the city is filled with great spots to enjoy whether you’re looking for culture, nature or nightlife.

by Halldora Hagalin Photos: Thinkstockphotos and Stockholm Mediabank

84 WOW Power to the people With over 750 years of history, 70 museums ally Astrid Lindgren—can you say Pippi Long­­­­stock­­ approach with classic architecture. The audience is and rich cultural life, Stockholm will surely ing, anyone? Outside the building is a bronze statue an urban mix of people between 23 and 30 years. deliver in the cultural department but right now we of Lindgren. The art direction and images for the Club Berns or Berns Salonger has been a Stock­­ want to tell you about the nature and nightlife of interior design were made by Swedish artist Marit holm landmark since 1863. Situated in the heart this great city. Törnqvist, who had previously made illustrations for of the city, Berns Salonger features an elegant more recent versions of Lindgren’s books. boutique hotel, conference and banqueting faci­ The nature At the other end, stretching a long way into the lities, a vibrant Asian restaurant and summer The green island of Djurgården is home to some of Stockholm Bay, the eastern part of Djurgården is terrace, popular bars, the nightclub, Gallery 2.35:1, the city’s most popular attractions. It is set in the very home to more traditional historic monuments. For and probably the best concert venue in town—all heart of Stockholm and was once the royal hunting example it is home to the art museum Walde­­ under one roof! The name, 2.35:1, may at first seem ground but now it is a protected nature reserve. marsudde and the Rosendal Palace. Djur­­gården strange, but it has a logical explanation. It is the At 279 hectares (for only 800 inhabitants), Stock­­ also features sunken lanes, forests and marsh­­ name for a video format that is a recurring theme holm’s green belt is larger than London’s Hyde Park lands where birds thrive. A bucolic ambience at in the basement. The futuristic interior mixed with and Kensington Gardens combined. The park is just ten minutes by bike from the center of the city. world class artist bookings week after week makes divided into two main sections. To the west, the Sooner or later, all visits to Stockholm must include this one of Stockholm’s most prominent clubs. area closest to the city, are the very well-tended the Island of Djurgården. Simply take the Djur­­gård­ Last but not least we would like to say that public gardens, a number of restaurants, the en tram from wherever you are in Stockholm and although there are three of Stockholm’s hot clubs Gröna Lund Amusement Park, the Vasa Museum enjoy. listed above we have found out that the best way to (which holds the world’s only entirely preserved enjoy nightlife in foreign cities is to ask the locals. 17th century ship), the gigantic Skansen Open-Air The nightlife So we recommend that you knock on the shoulder Muse­­um and Zoo, and a naval shipyard. And let’s Of course Stockholm offers you a fun night on the of a smiling local on your journey and ask him or not forget the Junibacken which is a museum de­­ town with blossoming nightlife full of laughter, joy her where she or he would recommend, as the voted to Swedish children’s literature, but especi­ and dance and the area of Södermalm in addition locals often have the best advice for the upcoming to the Stureplan Square is famed in Stockholm for weekend. its clubs and bars. The local’s advice is to enter a club or bar early, All the info before midnight, because after twelve o’clock the How people went traveling before Google and lines tend to be slow. Do not forget to bring your ID! smartphones is beyond our comprehension. No, Here are the top three nightclubs according to not really, but after the Internet came into our lives popular clubbing-website: it has to be said that traveling and sightseeing has Patricia is a party boat with five indoor bars in become much easier. You can search for the best addition to two bars out on the deck during the places to see, and get in touch with locals who are

Stockholm Stortorget … Stortorget in Stockholm’s Old Town. Photo: Jeppe Wikström / mediabank. visitstockholm.com

summertime. The boat has been afloat since the happy to help with all kind of things. But please ‘80s and has a great history from its war days. don’t get lost on your smartphone and don’t forget You’ll find Patricia at Metro Slussen by Gamla Stan. to look up from your newest technology and enjoy Sturecompagniet has long been one of Sweden’s what’s in front of you. Try to ask around by tapping most legendary nightclubs. The venue consists of on strangers shoulders instead of your hand-held four rooms on two floors around a beautiful atrium. device. If you do take a great photo in Sweden, Some years ago, the nightclub went through a remember to tag us in with #wowair so we can gentle but full renovation. It combined a modern enjoy it with you. v

Come spring 2016 WOW air will offer cheap flights to scenic Stockholm all year round from USA and Canada via Iceland.

Stockholm has so much to offer and we can’t wait to take you there. Check out our flight schedule to and from Stockholm at wowair.com.

Issue six 85 A

WOW destination Christmas in Berlin Alle Jahre wieder—so begins a German Christmas song and it really says it all: Every year Christmas comes again and again, each time awakening those warm and wonderful sentiments. Some can hardly wait while others think November is simply too soon for all those ornaments and Christmas delicacies in the stores. by Berlinur.de photos: Berlinur.de and thinkstockphotos.com

86 WOW Power to the people is the Stollen cake that originates in Dresden, a Christmas all year city that lies south of Berlin. Stollen is a beautiful If unfortunately you’re not in Berlin during the sweet loaf of yeast dough cake filled with dried Christmas holidays you can always quench fruit and marzipan that goes especially well with your thirst for the yuletide atmosphere at Käthe Glüwhein. Wohlfahrt’s Christmas Shop at Kurfürstendamm. For more children friendly treats try the Leb­- No matter what time of year you will hear Christ­ kuc­­hen and Spekulatius, two aromatic baked mas music and smell the No one should goods seasoned with the traditional holiday spices. Chrismas incense when miss out on the Speaking of being children friendly ... most Christ­­ glorious Christ­ walking by. Inside you’ll find mas markets in Berlin offer something for children. mas markets in handmade and traditional At the Alexanderplatz Market the children can even Berlin and if you German ornaments made enjoy a pony ride or go ice skating around Neptune, keep your eyes from wood, tin and glass. the god of the sea, that towers over the Neptune open you’ll also Almost every German home Fountain right across from Berlin’s Red City Hall. find an outlet has a little pyramid shaped The most daring take a ride on the Ferris wheel and from Käthe ornament where candles are enjoy the view of the city. Wohlfahrt’s placed underneath generating Christmas Shop heat that turn small propellers Our favorite close by. above. The ornament also tells Berliners have a favorite Christmas market in the story of Christmas with the Berl­in and that’s the one at Gendarmenmarkt. Ad­ help of small wooden figures. A mission to the market is 1 Euro but you’ll get your nutcracker is also a staple in German homes; how money’s worth just watching the program on the else are you supposed to enjoy the deliciousness stage where choirs sing carols and theater groups that hides within the hard shell of the walnut? put up their Christmas pageants. In addi­tion to No one should miss out on the glorious Christ­ the spectacles on the stage there are all sort of mas markets in Berlin and if you keep your strange creatures roaming about the market, eyes open you’ll also find an outlet from Käthe spreading joy and having fun with the visitors. Wohlfahrt’s Christmas Shop close by. We, at least, Another great Christmas market is the one by the are planning to enjoy the Advent in Germany with Charlottenburg Palace. all its delicious treats. v

B

A. Berlinur.de recom­ mends the Gendar­men­ markt Christmas market in Berlin.

B. German Christmas delicacies.

C. Delicious Stollen cake, jam-packed with dried fruits.

Christmas in Berlin officially begins at the D. Katrin and Margret Ros at Berlinur.de are end of November when the Christmas mark­­ already enjoying the ets open all around the city. Like with so many yuletide spirit. things in Berlin there’s not just one Christmas market but several that can be found even in the most unlikely of places; from the most popular C D streets and squares to shopping centers and the outskirts of the city. What might come as a surprise for many is that most of these markets close at precicely 11 PM on December 23rd. Fly into the holiday spirit. You’ll find cheap flights to Berlin from USA, Canada The taste of Christmas and Iceland at wowair.com For us at Berlinur.de the most exciting thing about Written by Katrín Árnadóttir and Margrét Rós Harðardóttir at www.berlinur.de, the Icelandic all these Christmas markets is the food and if you hostesses of Berlin. Berlinur offers a variety of guided tours around Berlin in both Icelandic and know us, you know why. First and foremost there’s English all year round. For more information and booking visit www.berlinur.de or email them at the mulled wine (Glühwein) but a close runner up [email protected].

Issue six 87 Destination Dublin Gone to the dogs During a press trip courtesy of Tourism Ireland, early last summer we explored Dublin and the surrounding countryside. We visited many great places, like the historic Trinity College and the magnificent Glendalough Valley. What we didn’t expect was that a “night at the dogs” would be one of the highlights of our stay.

Photos: Courtesy of Shelbourne Park Greyhound Stadium

As Icelanders we have little experience of of the Shelbourne Park Greyhound Stadium that animal racing, horses, dogs or otherwise and gave us a superb view of the track. the closest thing we have to any of the popular Looking around we soon realized that dog racing races around the world is the Icelandic rally and is not just for hard core fans but rather a fun night Formula Off Road. We’d never understood the out for groups of friends or for the whole family. at­tract­ion of animal racing and because of our While the youngsters feasted on French fries and inexperi­ence we were barely looking forward to our pizza, bachelor groups had their beer and burgers night out. in private group rooms and the older crowd had their (surprisingly good) fine dining and wine. A great evening out Once the betting had been explained to us novic­­ After an informative tour of the Guinness Factory­- es, the attentive betting staff came to our tabl­es —a must stop for all who visit Dublin, if not only for before and after each race to take our bets if we the view from the top floor bar and a taste of the wanted to place them or to pay us our winnings; we famous Guinness stew—our hosts had reserved never even had to stand up. We each got a voucher great seats for us by the window at the restaurant for five Euros to play with and were told that on

88 WOW Power to the people average people usually don’t bet more than 1-3 euros at a time as this is mostly for fun. For the rest of the night we had fun picking out cool names from the racing program and placing small bets. Some we won and some we lost but it didn’t even seem to matter as we were having so much fun.

Beloved family pets The Irish have a long history of dog racing and they have their Irish Greyhound Board to make sure everything is up to par. A racing dog usually doesn’t race for more than two years and then be­­ comes a great pet for a lucky family. The manag­­er of Shelbourne Park told us he had two at home. Having been assured that no animals were end­an­ g­er­ed we could carry on betting and having fun and even winning a small amount which would come in handy the following day. A night at the dogs is definitely recommended for families and friends on vacation in Dublin, especially during the winter when having fun in­­ doors seems like the best idea. For reservations or group bookings go to www.gogreyhoundracing. ie. And if you do go, make sure to try out the fries, they‘re among the best you’ll get in Dublin! v

Unleash you inner animal in Dublin. WOW air offers cheap flights to Ireland from USA and Canada via Iceland all year round. Check out our flight schedule and low fares to Dublin at wowair.com. See you on board!

ICELANDIC GOURMET MENU Freshly caught seafood and free range lamb – with a modern twist

DINNER – 6 COURSE MENU STARTS WITH A “REFRESHING“ SHOT OF THE NATIONAL SNAPS BRENNIVÍN FOLLOWED BY A BITE-SIZED TASTE OF PUFFIN ICELANDIC OCEAN PERCH Slow cooked ocean perch, beetroot purée, spicy butter, serrano ham, beetroot

ICELANDIC MINKE WHALE Shallot vinaigrette, crispy Jerusalem artichokes

ICELANDIC SEA TROUT Yuzu mayo, tru e mayo, crispy quinoa, apple

ICELANDIC PLAICE Samphire, green asparagus, blood orange, lime beurre blanc

RACK OF FREE RANGE ICELANDIC LAMB Lamb fillet, leeks, pickled onions, browned celeriac, baked carrots, spinach and dill cream

Dessert by pastry chef Axel Þ. CHOCOLATE ROSE Issue six 89 Chocolate mousse, raspberry gel, Sacher layer Austurstræti 16 101 Reykjavík Tel: 551 0011 apotek.is New destination The Golden State

Stretching from the Mexican border along the Pacific, California is known for its dramatic terrain and cliff-lined beaches among other things. Two of the state’s most famous cities are San Francisco and Los Angeles and that’s where we’re taking the WOW next summer.

Photos: Thinkstockphotos.com

Yes, you heard right. WOW air is Los Angeles secur­­ing its name on the short list of The City of Angels, also known as L.A. is ultra­-low-cost long-haul car­­riers by offering eclectic, progressive, trendy, laid-back and cheap flights to California’s biggest cities, retro all at once. This is the place many of the con­­nect­­ing them via Iceland to our biggest most famous peo­ple in the world call home desti­­­­nations in Europe. We hope you’re excit­­ and should you find yourself in Hollywood ed because we sure are! chanc­­es are you’ll recognize a face or two. Among the most popular things to do in San Francisco Los Angeles is a visit to Venice Beach, a great The cultural, commercial and fin­­ancial spot for people watch­­­­ing or to join in with the center of Northern California, San surfers, skat­­ers or bodybuilders. Checking Francisco is the second most densely out the Hollywood Walk of Fame is for some populated city in the United States after a rite of passage and of course a trip up to New York City. The city is well known for Mulholland Drive to take in the view from the its liberal atti­­tude and as the birthplace famous Holly­wood sign is a must. If growing of the “hippie” coun­­terculture, the Sexual up is something you forgot to do, or you’re Revolution and the Peace Movement. traveling with kids, a trip to Disney­land is San Fran­­cisco is also home to one of the probably on the horizon and meeting Mickey largest and oldest pride parades and the and Donald will not disappoint. festivities are truly something to witness A sprawling metropolis and a major center and be a part of. of the American entertainment industry, Public transportation is well used in San Los Angeles is surrounded on three sides by Francisco but in addition to a great transit mountains and has a subtropical-Medi­- system, the city also runs a historic streetcar terr­anean climate which means it’s pretty line and the famous cable cars that are now warm and cozy all year round. Temperatures a National Historic Landmark and a major rarely drop below 10°C (50°F) in the winter attraction. San Francisco has also been months and on average they are closer to rank­ed the second-most walkable city in the 15°C (59°F) reaching as high as 40°C (104°F) United States. during the summer. From the infamous Alcatraz Prison (make sure to book your trip there well in ad­­vance) Wine country to the Golden Gate Bridge, one of the seven California is wine country and there are wonders of the modern world, San Fran­cisco many wine regions to be found, the most impresses its visitors with its stunning­­­ land­­ fam­ous of which are Napa and Sonoma, both marks. In addition, great food, magni­ficent about an hour’s drive north of San Francisco. wines, culture, history and nightlife will Both regions boast rolling hills lined with ensure that you’ll never get enough of this some of the world’s most coveted grapes but great city. whereas Napa Valley is home to grand estat­­ San Francisco’s climate is mild all year es and elegance, Sonoma County has a more round thanks to the fact that the area is intimate feel. sur­­­­rounded by water on three sides. The Many tour operators focus on wine tours cool currents of the Pacific Ocean regulate that are always popular; some even stretch tempera­ture swings keeping everyone cool for days. We recommend finding a good one dur­ing the summer and warm during the and then tasting your way through the best winter. wine regions of California. v

Stay tuned for cheap flights to California from Europe. Our hot tickets to Los Angeles and San Francisco go on sale in January 2016.

Want to be the first to know? Join WOW air’s club at wowair.com/wowairclub, hang out with the cool kids and get our great offers straight to your inbox.

90 WOW Power to the people Issue six 91 Free in D.C.

An Abraham Lincoln tour of Washington, D.C. Abraham Lincoln is one of the most famous U.S. presidents, and rightfully so; he is credited with preserving the Union during the Civil War, and for bringing about the emancipation of slaves. And while the Lincoln Memorial is a popular site for tourists in D.C., there are numerous other places where you can learn more about Honest Abe. Here’s what else to check out.

by Katherine LaGrave Photos: Thinkstockphotos and Flickr

Lincoln’s Cottage Duck into the from the National Mall. It is here ments to the first inaugural address. On March Head to the cottage at the Soldiers’­­ New York Avenue that Lincoln came to stay after an 4, once the inaugural ceremonies were complete, Home and see where Lincoln escap­­­­ed Presbyterian Church assassination attempt before his Lincoln returned to the hotel to enjoy his celebra­ the heat of the White House during the three blocks from inauguration as president in 1861, tory lunch as president. Reportedly on the menu? summers of 1862, 1863 and 1864. Today the White House and and where he conducted official Mock turtle soup, corned beef and cabbage, a national monument, the cot­tage was see where Lincoln business, completed cabin­ et­­ parsley potatoes and blackberry pie. worshipped with his originally built be­tween 1842 and 1843 appointments, and made adjust­­­ family. as a private home for a reputable D.C. Lincoln assassination tour banker and business­man. On your visit, Journey back in time as you walk through the night step into the wood-panel­ed library of Lincoln’s assassination on a free tour with a where Lincoln drafted early parts of his guide from DC by Foot. Tours meet at 7 p.m. and famous Emancipation Proclamation, begin by the Andrew Jackson statue in Lafayette and learn more about Lincoln as a Square, highlighting places along the way including Commander-in-Chief through a tour of the Willard Hotel and the Star Saloon before the Robert H. Smith Visi­­tor Education ending at Ford’s Theater (reservations required). Center. New York Avenue Presbyterian Church The Willard InterContinental Duck into this church three blocks from the White Known primarily as a lavish, landmark House and see where Lincoln worshipped with his hotel, the Willard is a short two blocks family. Here, hints of the former president remain:

92 WOW Power to the people see Lincoln’s hitching post which drama, Lincoln, over 53 days. Under remains outside, and head indoors to fire at Fort Stevens: Erected to defend observe the family pew and a stunning D.C. during the American Civil War, stained glass Lincoln window. Fort Stevens was reputedly under fire when Lincoln rode out to observe the National Museum of Health and action. Accounts of Lincoln’s immi­­nent Medicine danger at the fort vary, but there is Located in nearby Silver Spring, Mary­­ nonetheless a plaque memori­­alizing land, this museum houses thousands­­ his visit on July 12, 1864. FROM REYKJAVIK of specimens from the history of military medicine. Among them? An See Abraham through the ages: official sketch of Lincoln’s deathbed Explore the Smithsonian’s National scene, the surgical kit from the autopsy Port­­rait Gallery, where you can see of the president, locks of Lincoln’s hair, cast­­ings of Lincoln’s hands and face, bone fragments from his skull and and what is thought to be one of the even the bullet from the assassination last photo­­graphs of the president. v that led to his death on April 15, 1865.

And more… Visit Virginia: If you have time, head to nearby Richmond, Virginia, to follow in the footsteps of Lincoln—and Steven Spielberg. Yes, it was primarily here The handgun used by John Wilkes Booth WHALE WATCHING that Spielberg filmed his 2012 historic Photo: Tim Evanson courtesy of Flickr. SEP OCT NOV DES JAN FEB MAR APR 09:00 09:00 09:00 13:00 13:00 13:00 13:00 13:00 13:00 13:00 13:00 Price: Adults: 8.700 ISK Children (7-15) 4.500 ISK Children (0-6) FREE Buy your discounted ticket on this flight!

Inside the Willard Hotel. Photo: Roman Boed courtesy of Flickr.

NORTHERN LIGHTS BY BOAT*

New York Avenue Presbyterian Church. Photo: Sack Winberg courtesy of Flickr. SEP OCT NOV DES JAN FEB MAR APR** 22:00 21:00* 21:00 21:00 21:00 21:00 21:00* 22:00 PRICE:Adults 8.700 ISK Children (7-15) 4.500 ISK Children (0-6) FREE *Departing at 21:00 from 16th Oct-14th Mar We’ve all got the freedom to go and explore Washington, D.C. WOW air will **Until 15 April take you there from Europe all year round.

You’ll find cheap flights to Washington, D.C. from all around Europe with WOW air at wowair.com. Join our club at wowair.com/wowairclub and get all the best deals directly to your inbox. Book online www.specialtours.is / [email protected] Call us +354 560 8800, or visit our ticket sale at the ol d h aIssuerbou rsix 93 Destination Paris

A French road trip We’ll never stop loving Paris. Explore the city of art and romance and unwind among accordion players while walking the cobblestoned roads.

by Guðrún Baldvina Sævarsdóttir Photos: Thinkstockphotos.com

Flying to Paris can be just the be­­ Don’t be afraid of follow signs for A71/Toulouse/A20/E9 and drive ginning if you fancy seeing a little the French, they on until you get close to Limoges where you turn more of the dreamlike country that is will spend a good 10 onto N520/Rocade Nord-Ouest. Follow signs for France. Why not rent a car and head out minutes mimicking Angoulême until you get onto D13, turn left unto to see some of the breathtaking and rifles and pigs in a D27, then right onto D50 and finally another right unbelievable sights France has to offer? game of charades onto D112. (looking for wild pigs Here are some highly recommended at the local butchers) destinations just a few hours away from Camping in France if you don’t speak a If camping is your thing, then France is your the city of love. word of French and it will make their day kind of country. Wherever you go you’ll find The city of Reims if you appreciate excellent campsites with hot showers, good An hour and 50 minutes-drive to the their local produce. accommodations for caravans and motor homes, east-north-east will take you to the city Just make sure swimming pools, game areas, horse rentals, etc. of Reims. Reims is the ideal destination whatever you say Camping in France can be a wonderful experience for history buffs and champagne lovers. ends in “madame” or and requires minimal research to be a great Situated in the Champagne-Ardenne “monsieur” and you’ll success. That said, you can also find charming region of France this is where the be alright. and comfortable accommodations in B&Bs, gîtes drink was invented and where it is still (private holiday homes for short-term rent) and of made today. It’s only real champagne course the little hotels in every tiny village. When if it comes from these parts and for traveling through the smaller villages of France, the authentic champagne experience a good rule of thumb is to head for the usually visit some of the manufacturers in the very visible church tower and there you’ll find area. Highly recommended is Pommery everything you need; shops, markets and cafés. where you can learn about the process, Don’t be afraid of the French, they will spend a explore the caves where the bottles are good 10 minutes mimicking rifles and pigs in a kept, and have a taste of course! Make game of charades (looking for wild pigs at the local sure to check out the Reims Cathedral butchers) if you don’t speak a word of French and so you can stand in the footsteps of it will make their day if you appreciate their local Joan of Arc and marvel at Marc Chag­ produce. Just make sure whatever you say ends in all’s stained glass windows. “madame” or “monsieur” and you’ll be alright. Directions: Take the E54 out of Paris While driving on the country roads keep an eye and then get onto the A4. out for handmade signs pointing to a farm where Périgord Limousin Natural Park you can buy produce straight from the farmer; Giverny Four hours south of Paris is Périgord Limousin Natural Park fruits, vegetables, meats and best of all: the nut Giverny is a commune just an hour and where you’ll find Camping de L’étang, our most favorite and olive oils! Always try the local produce from 20 minutes-drive northwest of Paris. campsite in the world. Situated in a forest next to a small lake, the region as it is the region’s specialty, made It is best known as home to Claude it’s run by a Dutch couple who built the place up from scratch. with a passion most other nations can only dream Monet’s house and garden where you They rent out cozy little huts, run a nice bar and restaurant about. French cuisine is renowned for a reason can spend a lovely afternoon roam­ with a pool table and dartboard, have good spacious pitches and a big part of that reason is the quality of the ing through the painter’s study and for tents and motor homes, a little beach on the lake with products. Be aware that the French take their amazing living room and walking a boat you’re free to use anytime and their dogs and cat lunch breaks very seriously and almost everything around his gardens and ponds; scenery absolutely love your company. Charming villages surround the shuts down between 12 and 14 (sometimes even very recognizable from many of his campsite and you can easily lose track of time walking in the 15 if they’re very relaxed). They’ll be enjoying their paintings. woods or shopping from the local farmers. lunch at a nice restaurant with a nice glass of wine Driving to Giverny takes you through Directions: From the 13th arrondisment head on to the E15/ before heading back to work a couple of hours later. one of France’s most scenic routes. The E50/A10/E5 and follow signs for Orléans/Chartres. By Orléans Take a leaf out of their book; eat, drink and relax. v trip will take you through one beautiful village after another in an amazing setting of the Vexin region. Directions: Head into the 8th Are you ready for a European road trip? Pack your GPS and book your arrondissement and get onto the A14 flight to Paris at wowair.com. that later turns into A13. Follow A13 to Avenue Aristide/D113 and then get onto We see Paris, we see France, we see you pack your traveling pants. D201 to Rue du Grand Val in Giverny. WOW air offers cheap flights to France from USA, Canada and Iceland all year round.

94 WOW Power to the people Issue six 95 Photo: Todd Van Hoosear, courtesy of Flickr.com

Sweet Boston Where to find the best cannoli in Boston Every Bostonite swears loyalty to one shop or another. Here’s where to find some of the city’s best offerings.

Like any good town with strong Walk the city’s Plain, chocolate and chocolate-­­­­ Italian roots, Boston has no shor­­ oldest residential dipped cannoli shells line the glass tage of espresso bars, gelaterias and community, and you coun­ter but it’s more than likely bakeries dedicated to the art of the can find anything you’ll get a fresh shell from the Italian desserts. But there is one treat, from the traditional back of the bakery—if not, ask for above all, that continues to be subject (a plain shell with one. Each shell is filled to order and to the most virulent of debates: the ricotta cheese) to given a hearty sprinkle of powdered cannoli. the modern—think sugar. Traditional, tasty and artfully Sicilian pastry desserts, these “little Oreo, mint chip, and made: there’s a reason Maria’s has tubes” are a staple in Boston’s Italian espresso. previously been voted “Boston’s and historic North End. Walk the city’s Best Cannoli” by the city’s residents. oldest residential community, and you can find anything from the traditional You’ll find Maria’s Pastry Shop (a plain shell with ricotta cheese) to the on 46 Cross Street in Boston’s modern—think Oreo, mint chip, and North End. espresso. Here’s how five of the city’s most popular shops stack up. Mike’s Pastry Shop Maria’s Pastry Shop Though the mass of people spilling Not judging the book by its cover is out of Mike’s swinging doors might important on a visit to Maria’s, where serve as a deterrent to passersby, the aesthetics of the small, no-frills have no fear: the line moves shop indicate nothing about the rich­­­­ quickly. Once inside, you choose ness of flavors found in its des­­­­­serts. from 18 flavors at this North End

96 WOW Power to the people institution, with selections ranging from limoncello Caffè Paradiso their famous round bread and for being open to pistachio. Shells at Mike’s are about as big as Paradiso’s sweets and espresso bar form the back 24-hours a day, but they also boast a mean set of they come in this cannoli town, but are pre-filled to of the traditional cafe, and a visit here is sure sweets—and there’s rarely a line. First opened in handle the high-turnover rate and, as a result, are to include mingling with the many Italians who 1926, this family-owned and operated bakeshop not as crunchy. Add a cappuccino or cup of tea to use this as their local spot. Ask what fillings you prepares their pastries fresh each day, and it comes your order, and settle in the shop’s designated café can get in your cannoli, and you’ll most likely be through in the taste: crispy, golden cannoli shells are area. If you can’t handle the bustle of the crowd, greeted with a scoff: ricotta, or original, is the only filled with a homemade ricotta and served with a ask for your cannoli to go, and your selections will option. Points here for presentation (a sturdy box dusting of powdered sugar. Now that’s amore. be carefully placed in an emblematic Mike’s box: with a gold seal), originality and taste, all of which blue and white, tied with string, a souvenir all on have undoubtedly stayed the same since the café You’ll find Bova’s Bakery at 134 Salem Street its own. opened in 1962. For the odd traveler who’s not in Boston’s North End. interested in cannoli, Paradiso also has some of You’ll find Mike’s Pastry Shop at 300 the city’s best gelato and Italian coffee. Hanover St. in Boston’s North End and now also on Harvard Square in Cambridge. You’ll find Caffè Paradiso at 255 Hanover Street in Boston’s North End.

Modern Pastry The lines at this North End staple are just shorter Bova’s Bakery than those at Mike’s, but to Bostonites, the Instead of being a one-stop shop for cannoli, Bova’s comparisons don’t stop there. Cannoli here, are seems to have it all: stromboli, arancini, black and smaller, and there is an evident mom-and-pop white cookies, Whoopie Pies, calzones, tiramisu, feel to the place cultivated by small tables and meatball subs and pizza. They’re best known for generational service—the family-owned shop was established more than 70 years ago, after all. Cannoli here are also fresher, and filled on the spot with your choice of vanilla custard, chocolate custard or ricotta. Prices increase incrementally by topping or shell, but rarely top $4. Bring your sweet tooth to Boston. WOW air offers cheap flights to Boston from You’ll find Modern Pastry at 257 Hanover around Europe several times a week all year round. Street in Boston’s North End and also in Medford. You’ll find cheap flights to Boston with WOW air at wowair.com. Join our club at wowair.com/wowairclub and get all the best deals directly to your inbox.

Photo: Todd Van Hoosear, courtesy of Flickr.com

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Issue six 97 New destination

The cream of Bristol WOW air announces cheap flights to Bristol in May 2016 so here are a few things you might want to know before hopping aboard.

Photos: Shutterstock.com

Flying to Bristol Airport For those who didn’t ace geography you What to do in Bristol is the obvious choice should know that Bristol is a city in located The first thing you’ll notice about Bristol is the for those who want to in South West England with little under 500,000 iconic Clifton Suspension Bridge and the amazing explore the beautiful inhabitants and a history that stretches all the hilly landscape. Clifton Bridge is Bristol’s most countr­­yside of South way back to the Iron Age. Whether you’re traveling famous landmark which is fitting since the city’s old West England. with the family, on a romantic break, searching English name, Brycgstow, means “the place at the for historic sites or just up for some UK shopping, bridge.” After checking out the famous bridge take Bristol is a great destination. a stroll around town and feast your eyes on some Having a history is great but today Bristol is a of the city’s street art, most notably the early works modern city built on the creative media, electronics of world renowned artist Banksy who grew up in and aerospace industries. The city is one of UK’s Bristol. A Bristol vacation would not be complete most popular destinations not the least based on the without a visit to Brunel’s ss Great Britain a.k.a. “The fact that it is an excellent starting point for exploring ship that changed the world,” a former passenger South West England and Wales but also as this is one steamship that sailed between Bristol and New of the warmest and sunniest cities in the UK. York and that for a time was the longest of its kind

98 WOW Power to the people to have been constructed 3000-2000 BC the monument was added to the UNESCO’s list of World Heritage Sites in 1986 along with its bigger, although seemingly lesser known cousin, the Avebury henge also in South West England (ca. 23 miles north of Stonehenge). If you like ancient mysteries the henges will surely keep you busy, at least for a day.

Good times in Bristol Visit Bristol in July and be a part of the Bristol Shakespeare Festival, an event with a passion for bringing the freshest, most exciting productions of Shakespeare’s plays to beautiful and unusual spaces around Bristol. At the end of July there’s also the Bristol Harbour Festival held on or near the waterfront of Bristol Harbour, celebrating the city’s maritime heritage. Visit Bristol in August for the magnificentBristol International Balloon Fiesta where teams from the UK and other parts of the world bring their colorful hot air balloons and participate in mass ascents. It in the world (1845-1854). Built in Bristol the ship limestone villages in a beautiful rural setting is is surely a sight to behold. now serves as a museum in Bristol Harbour where also close by. Try renting a cottage and taking Visit Bristol in September and witness the Bristol you can learn about the ship’s history as well as leisurely strolls around the pretty villages and the International Kite Festival where hundreds of witness the miracle of its restoration. nearby hills or better yet—rent bikes for the whole brilliant kites are airborne at the Ashton Court family and see more of the area. Just across the Estate. v What to do in South West England Bristol Channel you’ll be entering South Wales Flying to Bristol Airport is the obvious choice for known for its natural beauty – just perfect for a those who want to explore the beautiful countr­­y­ family road trip. side of South West England. With historical cities Last but not least flying to Bristol is ideal if WOW air will fly to Bristol three times a week all year round Bath and Glaucester nearby you’ll be sure to get you have always wanted to see Stonehenge. This from USA and Canada via Iceland. your fill of Roman history in the UK. The Cotswolds prehistoric site shrouded in mystery is located in You’ll find cheap flights to area, famous for its hundreds of honey-colored Wiltshire, ca. 50 miles southeast of Bristol. Believed Bristol at wowair.com

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Issue six 99 WOW destinations

You want more? WOW! We’ve been announcing a lot of new destinations recently but that doesn’t mean that our established routes have been forgotten. We could never fit all of our destinations into just one issue but you should know that WOW air has well over 20 destinations and there’s still more to come. Stay tuned!

and 5-7 flights a week during the summer. Connecting flights* to Amsterdam are available from Boston and Washington, D.C. in the USA and from Toronto and Montréal in Canada. Starting spring 2015 we will also offer cheap flights to Amsterdam from San Francisco and Los Angeles.

Barcelona Barcelona truly is the perfect destination; tasty tapas, seaside promenades and mind-blowing architecture. Düsseldorf This great city on the Rhine is famous for its art Getting there is the easy part. WOW air offers 2-4 and culture, luxury fashion and lifestyle. flights a week to Barcelona from Iceland from the middle of May until October.

WOW air flies to Düsseldorf, Germany from Alicante Iceland twice a week during the summer months. Warm up by the Mediterranean Sea and taste the best of Spain. London London has been on our schedule from the WOW air offers cheap flights to Alicante from beginning and for good reason. This sprawling Iceland four times a week during the summer metropolis is a popular destination all over the months and 1-3 times a week from March to world. It’s sort of like a rite of passage for travelers; May and September to January. you have to visit at least once. And if you’ve already been there you can go the other way from Gatwick airport and visit the beautiful Brighton. Copenhagen Amsterdam The former capital of Iceland is still a favorite A city of art, architecture, cool people and canals, among Icelanders and now’s your chance to and don’t forget windmills, weird wooden shoes WOW air offers cheap flights to London from find out why. and tulips. Amsterdam is a fairytale and a great Iceland up to 9 times a week. place to visit. Connecting flights* to London are available from Boston and Washington, D.C. in the USA and from WOW air offers several flights a week* to Toronto and Montréal in Canada. Starting spring Copenhagen from USA and Canada all year WOW air offers cheap flights to Amsterdam from 2015 we will also offer cheap flights to London round via Iceland. Iceland 2-4 times a week during the winter months from San Francisco and Los Angeles.

100 WOW Power to the people Lyon Experience the gastronomic capital of France with all its history and vibrant cultural scene.

WOW air flies to Lyon from Iceland twice a week during the summer months.

Milan

Get ready for high fashion and high culture and don’t forget to feast your eyes on da Vinci’s Last Supper.

WOW air flies to Milan, Italy from Iceland 2-3 times a week from June to September.

Rome All roads lead to Rome but we’re going to fly to this most famous world capital. Gran Canaria

WOW air offers cheap flights to Rome, Italy once a The city of Las Palmas in Gran Canaria is a new destination because we love getting our guests into the week from July to September. sun during the winter.

WOW air offers weekly flights to Gran Canaria from February to May 2016.

Tenerife Warsaw Relaxing on a tropical island sounds like a dream and Tenerife is a dream come true. The capital of Poland has some historic charisma WOW air offers weekly flights to Tenerife Sur from and is a great Iceland all year round and twice a week in January, destination if February and March. you’re on a budget. Salzburg Looking for that perfect winter destination? Go Vilnius WOW air offers flights to Warsaw from Iceland skiing in the Austrian Alps’ best ski resorts, just Are you hungry for something different? Visit the three times a week during the summer months a short drive from Salzburg Airport. capital of Lithuania and see the UNESCO World and weekly from September to January and Heritage listed Old Town. April and May.

Pack your skis; WOW air flies to Salzburg from * Note that the availability of connecting flights between USA and Europe may Iceland once a week in December, January and vary depending on the flight frequency to each city. WOW air connects London, WOW air offers flights between Vilnius and Iceland Bristol, Dublin, Berlin, Copenhagen, Amsterdam, Paris and Stockholm to Boston, February. Washington, D.C., Los Angeles and San Francisco in the US and Toronto and once a week during the summer. Montréal in Canada

Issue six 101 This and that … mostly this by Fjóla Helgadóttir

ours has to offer. In fact, we won’t QuizUp the TV show! Let Bieber show you! be surprised if teenage girls start flocking to Iceland to see some NBC has announced they will be turning the Thanks to Justin Bieber every­ the world, what he was actually of Bieber’s shooting locations. Icelandic megahit game app, QuizUp in to a TV one on the planet now knows doing here. Shooting a video! The Whatever keeps the youth inter­ show! The TV show will have a multiplayer format about Iceland. Bieber visited us video to his song “I’ll Show You” ested in Mother Nature, right? We like the gaming app itself with in-studio contestants in September, and in October we shows some of the most amazing see what you did there Bieber, competing against at-home viewers playing in found out, along with the rest of landscapes this beautiful island of good one! real time on their mobile phones. Winning all eight rounds gives the in-studio contestant the possibility of winning up to one million US dollars! At-home Wapp is a brand new and innovative Icelandic walking app that contestants can win too of course. They‘re able to will take you on a hiking tour and help you have your own Icelandic win the money assigned to each round. To qualify Walk around adventure outdoors using GPS-activated pop-up facts, stories and for competing in-studio or at home, candidates photos from the area. The trails are of great variety and the experience must successfully pass a trivia quiz. Even those who meaningful and joyful. It’s not just about the reaching a destination but don’t pass or do not have the mobile app can play also about enjoying the overall experience on the way. while watching, with the questions and answers Try the new variety of trails in Iceland equipped with the important synchronized with the broadcast. Game on people! safety measure of always knowing your location as the route progresses.

The Wapp’s main features entail:

1. A display of varied trails in Iceland, using your phone as a personal travel guide. 2. Storing trails on your phone for offline use. 3. Collection of nearby trails easily visible and accessible on your phone. 4. Opens up possibilities of diverse trips or exploring new areas. 5. Simple search by length of trip, elevation, difficulty or territory.

The Wapp can be downloaded for free from Appstore and Playstore and offers a few free trails for you to test. Try the Reykjavik Walk (see page 68-70).

Icelandic LazyTown films to win an Emmy? are on a roll! The Icelandic children’s program, LazyTown The Icelandic movie Þrestir has been nominated for an International Emmy (Sparrows) recently won the Golden Award in the Kids: Preschool category. The Shell Award at the San Sebastián ceremony will take place on 5 April 2016. The International Film Festival. Þrestir show’s creator, Magnús Scheving, who also tells the story of a sixteen year old plays the role of Sportacus, was nominated in boy who moves to a remote fishing 2007 for outstanding directing in a children’s town in the Westfjords in the hopes series and the year before Julianna Rose of reconnecting with his father. Mauriello, who plays the role of Stephanie, was Rúnar Rúnarsson, who wrote the nominated as an outstanding performer in a script and directed the film, received children’s series. The show has gained massive an Oscar nomination for best short popularity and is aired in 170 countries in more film in 2006 for his film Síðasti than 20 languages. Go LazyTown! bærinn.

102 WOW Power to the people This and that … mostly this

Another film award!

The Icelandic film Fúsi (Virgin Mountain) won the Nordic Film Prize last October having previously won three of the main awards at the Tribeca Film Festival in New York last spring; Dagur Kári Pétursson, who wrote the script and directed the film, won for Best Fischer’s Pawn Sacrifice Screenplay, Gunnar Jónsson who plays the main character Fúsi, won for Best Back in 1972 the World Chess Championship was held in Spassky. The film tells the story of Fischer’s childhood and Actor and the film won Best Narrative Iceland with Boris Spassky and Bobby Fischer competing offers some insight into the life of this peculiar genius, who, Feature. The film tells the story of Fúsi against each other for a shot at the title. Pawn Sacrifice, a at the age of fourteen was the youngest person ever to who, in his forties, still lives with his biopic about Fischer’s life was released last September, win the U.S Chess Championship. A must see for all lovers mother and doesn’t have the courage to portraying the events of the World Chess Championship, of biographical films, chess and of course the lovers of leave home. with Tobey Maguire as Fischer and Liev Schreiber as Iceland.

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Icelandic films are on Scandinavian cuisine a roll! Enjoy a four course Icelandic set menu in one of Reykjaviks oldest buildings Hönnun: Marknet ehf. Hönnun:

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Issue six 103 This and that … mostly this

Go float about Float is a water therapy product designed to give users a relaxing water experience. Float is available as a cap and a pair of floating aid straps for legs offering a weightless and stress-free time in the swimming pool. Swimming pools all over the capital area have started offering float sessions and there is even a special Northern Lights floating Free the nipple wins an award tour available that takes you to a secret lagoon outside Reykjavik (www.floatingtours. com). The swimming pools at Garðabær and Álftanes now offer floating sessions once Adda Smáradóttir, a college nipple area while men don‘t. Adda, a month. In the swimming pool in Ásgarður in Garðabær there’s a session on Fridays student in Reykjavík, started a who was only sixteen at the time, at 7 pm to 8 pm with dates including 18 December, 15 January and 19 February. And at revolution on the morning of 26 recently won an award in Taiwan the swimming pool in Álftanes on Saturdays at 11 am to 11:45 am with dates including 5 March 2015 when, as a sign of for her act of bravery and for December, 2 January, 6 February and 18 March. Float caps are available for loan on site protest, she posted a picture of her starting the national #freethenipple and guests only pay the admission to the pools. This is probably the cheapest but most naked breasts on Twitter. A fellow revolution in Iceland. unique and relaxing spa session you’ll ever try. male student publicly criticized her actions and soon hundreds For more information on Float visit www.float.is of girls and women in Iceland showed their support to Adda by posting pictures of their breasts on Twitter and Facebook. At the same N E W A W A R D time these women protested the double standards set by society in B E S T T H A I F O O D 2 0 1 5 which women need to cover their “------“You don’t decide what makes your heart beat. It just beats.”

R E S T A U R A N T BanThaiw w w . b a n t h a i . i s

Páll Óskar, Iceland’s biggest pop icon and former Eurovision contestant has always been untiring in his efforts to show the Icelandic

people that love is love no matter what. Páll Óskar is the front man every

------year at the Reykjavik Pride Parade and the most famous gay person

in Iceland who people look up to him and honor in his fight in LBGT

L a u g a v e g u r 1 3 0 v i ð H l e m m matters. Páll Óskar recently appeared on “Stundin okkar,” The National “ T E L : 5 5 2 2 4 4 4 , 6 9 2 - 0 5 6 4 ------Broadcasting Service of Iceland’s oldest children’s program, to talk about homosexuality to the next generation. It was pretty easy for him m a n y f o u s p e l r g h A L S O B E S T 2 0 0 9, 2 0 1 0, 2 0 1 1, 2 0 1 2, 2 0 1 3, A N D 2 0 1 4 2 0 1 3, 2 0 1 2, 2 0 1 1, 2 0 1 0, T 2 0 9, A L S O B E to explain: “I’m never going to have any girlfriends. Because I don’t get crushes on girls…I get crushes on guys, because I’m gay.” When asked more about what that meant he replied: “You don’t decide what makes your heart beat. It just beats.”

104 WOW Power to the people This and that … mostly this

Daily tours all year round

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BBC Earth recently showed a TV pro­gram with journalist Melissa Hogenboom who came to Iceland d n

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o in search for elves and trolls. Hogenboom did not find any elves or trolls but she did discover some w interesting Icelandic folklore and myths. Hogenboom met Terry Gunnell, a professor in Folkloristics­ m at the University of Iceland­ who told the journalist of the misfortunes­ of road builders in the seventies while working on the road Álfhólsvegur, which means Elf-hill-road, in Kópavogur. Gunnell says in the TV program that pipes burst, building­ equipment broke down, bulldozers­ stopped working and cars would break down in the middle of the road. Although you might not come across any elves or trolls during your stay in Iceland, it’s worth looking for Álfhólsvegur Road in Kópavogur, and see how the street itself swerves past a small hill of rocks. Building a road in the elves’ living room—now that’s just rude!

Take a look at Hera

The super talented actress Hera Hilmars, most recently known for her role in the movie Vonarstræti (Life in a Fishbowl) is up for the role of Ben Kingsley’s lover in the movie An Ordinary Man. Kingsley plays the part of a war criminal in hiding who Tel. (+354) 580 9900 starts a love affair with his maid played by Hera. As [email protected] searchers close in on him he www.mountaineers.is realizes she is the only one he can trust. Sounds thrilling! Your Ticket to Adventure

Issue six 105 Hey What’s going on over here? look! Quite a lot actually, and if you know where to go you can live each night in Iceland like there’s a full blown festival going on.

What: Mass of St. Thorlac When: December 23 Where: all around the country

Mass of St. Thorlac (Þorláksmessa) is a big part of the Icelandic Christmas tradition. For many families this is the day to put up the Christmas tree and decorate it and this is also a big night for last minute shopping before Christmas (not unlike Christmas Eve in the U.S.). In downtown Reykjavik, people will be rushing from store to store to buy the last presents for their loved ones and also settling in at cozy bars and cafés to meet friends and have fun before the holy days. Laugavegur and Skólavörðustígur in What: new Year’s Eve Reykjavik are lined with musicians When: december 31 making the atmosphere festive so you Where: All around the country can feel the true Christmas spirit. If you find yourself in Reykjavík (or If there is one night to celebrate in Iceland it is New Year’s Eve. Family and friends come together in their best dresses, any town center that has restaurants) enjoying a good meal partying throughout the night. The main event during New Year’s Eve for the locals is the Annual during Þorláksmessa you’ll discover Comedy Revue broadcasted by the Icelandic National Broadcasting Service (RUV), which people will talk about a strange odor coming from some for days after whether it was good or not. Going to bonfires and shooting up a whole lot of fireworks illuminating of the restaurants. That is the smell every village, town and city in beautiful colors is also on the agenda. It is well known that Icelanders are mad about of fermented skate and the taste fireworks during New Year’s Eve and it is truly a sight to behold. If you are in the capital feel free to hit downtown (start is similar to the smell. Use this by Hallgrímskirkja Church before midnight) for one of best parties in the world. opportunity to have a proper taste of this well known traditional food. What: The last day of Christmas When: January 6 Where: All around the country

Generally known as Þrettándinn (The Thirteenth) in Icelandic, the last day of Christmas is the day when creatures out of this world will be more visible than other days. The Thirteenth marks the thirteenth day of Christmas and the day that the last Yule Lad leaves town and heads back to the mountains. People should be on special alert this night as it is believed that on this day cows can talk, and those who hear them loose their sanity as a result, so stay away from farm animals during this day. If that isn’t enough, elves and fairies What: moses Hightower look for new dwelling place during this time so they will Where: húrra, Tryggvagata 22 be more visible than on other days of the year. When: december 26 from In ancient days the thirteenth was actually the 20:00-22:00 day people celebrated the birth of Christ but in the 18th century this was changed and Christmas was Moses Hightower is an exciting band moved to the 24th of December. For the next two which has released two 10-track centuries the day was actually nicknamed “The Old al­bums that both got outstanding re­ Yule.” Today Icelanders celebrate the Thirteenth in a views. Here you get a good oppor­­tunity similar fashion as New Year’s Eve by lighting bonfires, to see one of Iceland’s top indie bands shooting up fireworks and partying with elves, trolls perform at a local bar. You simply show and the last of the Yule Lads before they disappear up at Húrra, at Tryggva­gata 22, before 8 again for another year. Wherever you stay during this PM in down­­town Reykjavík and have a day ask a local to direct you to the nearest bonfire for good night out. a fun night out.

106 WOW Power to the people Vodafone 4G Choose Vodafone Iceland

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PHOTO

Buy your prepaid SIM card at BSI bus terminal, Vodafone stores, N1 gas stations all around Iceland, and at our network of resellers.

Issue six 107 What’s going on over here?

What: KEX Jazz Where: KEX Hostel, Skúlagata 28 When: Every Tuesday from 8:30-10 PM

Did you know that every Tuesday live jazz performances are held at KEX-Hostel? Throughout the years a great variety of artists have performed at KEX Jazz making it well known for music lovers in Iceland. Jazz it up in Reykjavik simply by showing up and enjoying great music in good company.

Hey look!

What: Thorri When: Late January Where: All around Iceland

Þorrablót is a pagan midwinter feast were the food served is of particular note. In ancient times the blót meant a sacrifice, probably to the Norse god Thor, to ensure the survival of the household during this last and most trying of winter months. This pagan ritual disappeared after the Christianization of Iceland but during this country’s period of What: Kristján Jóhannsson’s Christmas Concert romantic nationalism a festival named Thorrablot was introduced and is still popular today. Where: Harpa Concert Hall But back to the food, which is the biggest part of modern Thorri festivities. The old food of When: December 6 Iceland’s rural regions is what’s for dinner. In the old days all parts of slaughtered animals were utilized and eaten. It was at a time when food was scarce and preservation was crucial. Preservation before the time of refrigerators and freezers often meant curing or One of Iceland’s most beloved tenors will be performing a pickling the meat and offal in whey but also smoking it, drying it and/or salting it. During Christmas concert on December 6 at the Harpa Concert Hall. Thorri, Icelanders get together and eat these questionable delicacies and some even Experience the voice of Jóhannsson and fill your soul with love them. But what is served during a Þorrablót? Here are some examples: singed sheep Christmas spirit. heads, pickled ram testicles, pickled blood pudding, rotten shark, dried fish and pickled Tickets are available at www.tix.is. whale blubber to name just a few. Tempted? Ask a local to guide you to a restaurant serving traditional Thorri food and bon appetit.

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www.jswatch.com Issue six 109 Libra 23 September - 23 October You went a little crazy with the baking this year and are having problems giving those Aries yummy cookies away. The stars have just 21 March - 19 April teleported their address into you mind and are looking forward to your package. In return they Yep—you’ve done it again; and after we tried will sprinkle a lot of good things in you path for to warn you and everything. Your carefully 2016. Stay tuned. chosen and timely bought Christmas presents are hidden and you don’t remember where. FYI, they’re in the back of your closet. Now Scorpio let’s just hope you read your WOW horoscope 24 October - 21 November before Christmas. If not—just pretend you’re When will you realize that sex toys are not a Aquarius. good Christmas present?—not for your new romantic partner, not for your parents and definitely not for your favorite co-worker or Taurus boss. Your social life will take a quick dive in 20 April - 20 May the beginning of 2016 but they’ll get over it Procrastination is the name of your game so eventually. as always you wait until the last moment to buy Christmas presents for your loved ones. This will result in some weird choices that will Sagittarius affect you all through 2016. 22 November - 21 December Your handmade presents will not impress anyone except your grandmother. Perhaps you Gemini should actually learn a skill before you try and 21 May - 21 June create something for others, hmm? On the You decided last year that this year would bright side the stars predict that you will need be different but you just realized that it was a new hobby for 2016. exactly the same minus that cat incident. Well done Gemini. 2016 will be more of the same. Capricorn 22 December - 19 January Cancer You spent 2015 handcrafting all your Christmas presents so you wouldn’t go over 22 June - 22 July your budget this time. When the holidays draw As last issue’s horoscope predicted, you nearer you will however get sucked into the founded your own cult and you’re now material cheer wanting to give everyone a little regrett­ing it since you have very few followers something extra. The stars do see you losing and you forgot all about Christmas. Rookie your holiday weight faster than anyone in 2016 mistake! In 2016 you will change the rules and though, so there’s a plus. gain more followers because of it. Aquarius Leo 20 January - 18 February 23 July - 22 August Sending out Christmas presents in January? You know what everyone else wants for Why not? It shows people that you’re not Christmas but you decide to buy it all for bound by tradition and the expectations of yourself instead and post it on Facebook others. Good for you. You know it says 2016 on to make them jealous. Seeing that so many the calendar but you’re still living it up like it’s people now want what you have this will have 2005. amazing effects on your social life in 2016. Pisces Virgo 19 February - 20 March 23 August - 22 September You bought the Christmas presents early but unlike Aries you know where you hid them. You’ll have a slight panic attack when you The only problem is that you’ve been second realize that your Christmas tree will never look guessing every one thinking you made the like the ones in the magazines because other wrong choice. In 2016 you will try to get to people wrap presents too and then send them know people better so you won’t have to live to you, totally destroying the theme of your through this agony ever again. own artfully wrapped gifts. Eeugh! 2016 will begin normally but when you send out that

“Guide to Christmas Wrapping” in September Disclaimer: This horoscope is total and utter nonsence. Any accuracies, real or you will lose a few friends. imagined by readers, are purely incidental.

110 WOW Power to the people Issue six 111 Really, really bored? Here are a few WOW Sudoku sudokus to make time fly. But how do I do it? The object is to insert the numbers in the boxes to satisfy only one condition: Each row, column and 3x3 box must contain the digits 1 through 9 exactly once. What could be simpler?

112 WOW PowerPower toto thethe peoplepeople Issue six 113 The Traveling Inquisition What‘s so funny? In downtown Reykjavik, Gísli Johann along with his group the Goldengang are bringing stand-up comedy in English every Monday night, and from December 2015, Wednesday nights too, to Gaukurinn, a bar on Tryggvagata 22, where he and 10-20 comedians one after the other perform their short and often hilarious stints.

by Paul Michael Herman / Photos: From private collection

Standing up “I want to make The leader of the group, Gísli Jóhann, the young stand-up comedy man who got this “show on the road” has appar­ more popular ently found his niche. Gísli explains how he got into in Iceland and stand-up. Icelandic stand- “I’ve always been a huge fan of stand-up. I re­­­ up comedy member when I was ten, watching my first hour more popular special with my dad. I didn’t understand a lot of internationally.” what was being said but it felt funny and I liked it and I wanted to see more. As I grew up it nev­­er occurred to me that this could be an actual profession for me. Then around Christmas 2014, I was working as a machinist standing in front of a machine 8-10 hours a day listening to podcast comedians the whole time. I felt that rather than standing there, I should be sitting in a group of comedians joking around with them. So I looked into it, found an open mic and on the 5th of February 2015, I was on stage telling jokes. I haven‘t stopped since.”

The Goldengang emerges When asked to describe his experience, Gísli says: “Amazing! It’s been the best thing I’ve ever done. I quit my job to do this and yes, it has been rough. To start out, most comedians just get paid in beer which doesn’t pay the bills, but it’s been incredibly rewarding in so many other ways.” For the first few months Gísli had no income and no place of his own to stay so it was sometimes only one meal a day and then a friend’s couch at night. But Gísli wasn’t expecting it to be easy and hardship does make great material for comedy. When asked how it’s been over the past six months, Gísli explains... “By performing, I was able to attract the attention of other comedians until we eventually formed a group. Since May, we’ve had a show on every Monday that has expanded exponentially both in terms of comedians per­­­ forming and the size of the audience. The show features Icelandic comedy in English and because it’s an open mic we are also getting a lot of traveling­­­ comedians jumping in to perform. “We started out as 6 comedians performing in front of 20 people. Now it’s up to 20 comedians performing in front of 120-150 people each week. Because of this show we’ve made friends with other comedy groups from other countries and we are working on bringing in international talent, thereby creating opportunities for our comedians to be discovered.”

Check out the culture “I want to make stand-up comedy more popular in Iceland and Icelandic stand-up comedy more popular internationally,” Gísli says when asked about his vision for the future. What would a comedian recommend for people visiting Iceland? “Spend money. We love money. Seriously though, I’d recommend people take the time to explore Iceland’s culture and nightlife. Reykjavik, for example has everything you’d find in any other bustling city. Nightclubs, live music, art and now Icelandic stand-up comedy in English.” Gísli (now) has his apartment, his plans and his passion and thanks to his good sense of humor, Iceland has a lot more to laugh about and perhaps soon the world. v

114 WOW Power to the people Frost resistant

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