CHAPTER 9 Handlooms and Handicrafts Introduction Under various schemes of the central and state Maharashtra is known for its rich and exquisite Government, efforts have been made to construct traditional handloom textiles and handicrafts. common worksheds and common facility centres. Handwoven textiles like Paithani brocades that have As a production unit, a combination of land, labour, existed for more than 2000 years in original capital and entrepreneurial skills are required in patterns, and woven with the same techniques even order to manage the economic activity. today, are prized heirlooms and possessions for As the handlooms and handicrafts sector is many. New techniques and products were totally decentralised, individual weavers and introduced by different dynasties, which ruled the craftsmen face difficulties in procuring finance, raw state from time to time. These have left an indelible material and in marketing. The wages of weavers are impression on the history of handwoven textiles and also so meagre that they are not in a position to handcrafted arts of Maharashtra. Handlooms and invest in any kind of change or improvement either handicrafts have played a crucial role in the state in technology or in product diversification. Thus, as they are unable to sell their products at a price in economy in providing employment and income. order to earn the minimum wages to survive, they th However, since the early 20 century, with the are shifting to other occupations, with the exception introduction of mills and import of powerloom of the weavers who produce specialised products, fabrics by the British, the expanding mill and which do not face any threat from the powerloom powerloom sector in the country poses a threat to sector or those fabrics, which cannot be the handloom sector. Despite these constraints, the economically produced on powerlooms. handlooms and handicrafts sector is an important High quality handloom fabrics and handicrafts segment of the rural economy. The immediate and were exported to England before the process of essential requirements are careful nurturing and a industrialisation in India acquiring recognition the development plan for facing market competition. world over. Mughal emperors, feudal lords and The production of these articles is achieved aristocrats were the main patrons of handlooms and through labour-oriented methods by artisans/ handicrafts artisans and craftsmen. master craftsmen whose expertise and skills are The Industrial Revolution in England in the handed down from one generation to the next, 19th century, British rule and the abolition of feudal creating a distinctive regional identity and lords led to the decline in the patronage of characteristics unique to the region. There have handloom weaving, and consequently, the been improvements in designs, to a certain extent in handloom industry declined in India as it was unable technique, and in the use of contemporary fibres. to compete with technology-driven units of production with regard to price and consistency of The use of modern technology is absent. This fabric quality. sector uses labour-intensive production technique, with less capital requirements; and it is best suited Post-Independence Policy on Handlooms for India and under-developed countries, where and Handicrafts labour is abundant and surplus, and capital is scarce. In the post-Independence era, despite the thrust on The technique has the potential to generate massive heavy and medium industries for economic employment and raise the standard of living of development of the country, due importance was people living below the poverty line. The also given to village and cottage industries because handlooms and handicrafts, being cottage industries, of the large employment potential. Handlooms and production is carried out from household premises handicrafts sectors were the major sectors in terms or in the open. of providing employment next only to agriculture. 202 Maharashtra State Development Report Generation of massive employment is best-suited Section I under Indian conditions, where capital is scarce and Development in Handlooms Sector technology imports are not affordable by the nation; hence, the handlooms and handicrafts sectors are Apex Development Bodies also best suited to achieve planned objectives of Ministry of Textiles, Government of India “self-sufficiency” and “self-reliance.” Owing to The allocation of funds for the development of geographical specialisation, exports are possible, these sectors and for implementation of various schemes of the Government of India is done by the provided the production cost is minimal and the Ministry of Textiles through the Director, Weavers’ price is competitive in terms of the market. Service Centre, Mumbai and Deputy Director, Traditionally, these handcrafted products were Weavers' Service Centre, Nagpur. patronised by royalty, the Indian aristocracy and foreigners. The quality of goods produced was not Development Commissioner for Handlooms, Government of India available elsewhere. Being labour-intensive, The Office of the Development Commissioner for production takes its time and as there is an absence Handlooms, with its headquarter at New Delhi, of modern technology, mass production is not directs the research, development and training for possible. It is assumed that the use of modern the handlooms sector in Maharashtra through its technology leads to mass production, as it invariably western region office headed by the Director with brings down the cost of production and it is market- branch office in Mumbai and other sub-offices in competitive because of its cost advantage, i.e. Aurangabad, Kolhapur and Nagpur. produced at the least cost. While these Department of Textiles, Government of Maharashtra characteristics may or may not be present in the The State Textile Department is, headed by the production of handicrafts, with labour being in Secretary (Textiles) who is in charge for the abundance and cheaply available compared to the development of the handloom sector and assists in cost of labour in western countries, this industry achieving targets through the Director of needs special skills handed down from one Handlooms, Powerlooms and Textiles with generation to the next, which are “hereditary in headquarters located at Nagpur, and regional offices nature". headed by Regional Deputy Directors at Mumbai, The Central Government, in coordination with Solapur, Aurangabad and Nagpur. the State Government, proposed a number of Department of Industries, Government of Maharashtra schemes, which included conversion to The State Government, through Secretary powerlooms, supply of improved appliances such as (Industries) is in charge of the development of the take-up motions, etc. to improve the quality of handicrafts sector and provides assistance to the handloom fabrics. To provide newer designs and artisans. training for using improved appliances to the Maharashtra Small-Scale Industries Development weavers who were living in remote areas with no Corporation (MSSIDC) knowledge of changing trends in the cities, Weavers' MSSIDC was established in 1962, initially as an Service Centres were started by the Government of agency for the supply of raw materials to SSI units India in various areas of the country, beginning with and to also extend marketing assistance to these Mumbai in 1956. units in selling their products. The basic objective The use of these appliances, which were was to help small-scale industries to develop and developed for the production of better quality and grow to the fullest extent, enabling them to play uniform fabrics were not adopted by the weavers their role towards the realisation of the national because of both physical and mental blocks. objective of accelerating the industrial development, However, in certain areas, for production of plain generation of employment and income. medium-count fabrics, semi-automatic looms were In the handlooms and handicrafts sector, adopted for ensuring a superior quality of fabric. MSSIDC had undertaken the project of the training This chapter is divided into four sections as follows. centre at Paithan in 1973 and still continues with it. Handlooms and Handicrafts 203 MSSIDC has played a vital role in the revival of Annabhau Sathe Corporation are the facilitators to Paithani sarees of Paithan and Himroo weaving of industrial artisans/units/cooperative-ventures/ Aurangabad. MSSIDC has also actively participated NGO initiatives, providing marketing, training in the area of handicrafts by arranging training facilities, loan, subsidy and credit. However, the programmes, sales and marketing. achievements fall far short of expectations and MSSIDC organises the marketing of handicraft expected levels of performance. items and also arranges to conduct training Handlooms in Maharashtra programmes in Paithani-weaving at Paithan and Handloom weavers in Maharashtra exist in pockets Yeola for the revival of this craft. scattered throughout the state. The uniqueness of Maharashtra State Handloom Corporation (MSHC), handloom is its regional specialisation of a particular Nagpur kind of product that is known by the name of the The Corporation was set up in 1972 with the place from where it is woven, e.g. Nagpur sarees, objective of providing gainful employment to Paithani sarees, Mahendargi choli khans, etc. As this handloom weavers not covered by the cooperative industry is totally decentralised, efforts have been sector, by supplying raw materials and