Arts & Entertainment • Restaurants Arts & Entertainment • Restaurants Eating out in New York...why do we do it? Because mortar location, Daisy May’s BBQ USA (Map 11), (while garter-clad waitresses wearing vintage 7) (Korean); Nobu (Map 2) and about 40 others our kitchens are small, we’re too busy, and hey, co-owned by Adam Perry Lang (Le Cirque, Daniel, headwear sexily saunter around), and not caring (Japanese);) Babbo (Map 6), Felidia (Map 13), Il cooking is probably only 15% cheaper. Or at Chanterelle), has multiple street carts throughout at all what the food tastes like. Momofuku Noodle Mulino (Map 6), Sfoglia (Map 17), i Trulli (Map least that’s what we tell ourselves when we’re the city where you can fetch a hearty bowl of Bar (Map 7) and its new offshoot Momofuku 10), and countless others (Italian); Ghenet (Map 6) spending $81 on a hamburger (Old Homestead award-winning “Bowl’O Red” Texas-style chili for Ssam Bar (Map 6) lure in lovers of noodles and and Zoma (Map 19) (Ethiopian); Eight Mile Creek Steakhouse (Map 5). But even those of us who $7 and some serious ‘cue. Ethnic food has always all things porky, but of course don’t go to either (Map 6) (Australian); Balthazar (Map 6), Chante- love to cook can’t resist the allure of some of the been a great friend to eaters on a budget. Viet- if you’re in any kind of a rush. And for those of you relle (Map 2), Café D’Alsace (Map 17), La Lun- best and most varied cuisine in the world. For New namese (Cong Ly (Map 3)), Chinese (New Green who have a penchant for restaurants with celebrity cheonette (Map 8), Jules (Map 6), and so many Yorkers, eating out is simultaneously a science Bo (Map 3), Wo Hop (Map 3), Joe’s Shanghai chefs (with celebrity tempers), and get a thrill from more (French); Good World (Map 4) and Aquavit and an art form. Since we have so many options, (Map 3, 12), Food Shing (Map 3)), Middle Eastern sitting at one of the most exclusive tables in town, (Map 12) (Scandinavian); Heidelberg (Map 15), we don’t seem to be able to waste any meal on (Hummus Place (Map 6), Gazala Place (Map 11)), pull whatever strings you’ve got for an evening of Zum Schneider (Map 7), and Hallo Berlin (Map a haphazard choice of venue. Selecting exactly and Mexican joints (the taqueria at The Corner hip indulgence at the chef’s table in the kitchen of 11) (German); Charles’ Southern Style (Map 22), the right restaurant for an occasion is not just a a.k.a. La Esquina (Map 6)) deserve repeat visits Gordon Ramsay at the London (Map 12). Sylvia’s (Map 19), and Old Devil Moon (Map 7) matter of taste, particularly when you’re preparing even if you’re not trying to be frugal. And now, (Southern); Kefi (Map 14) and Elias Corner (Map to splurge; it requires knowledge, logic, strategy, thanks to a new influx of hip hot dog joints, you 26) (Greek); Sigiri (Map 7) (Sri Lankan) etc. etc. etc. and even risk-assessment (is it beginning to sound can branch out from Katz’s Delicatessen (Map Eating Late like a competitive sport?). We may want a certain 7). Papaya King (Map 17) has kept hot dog lovers Kang Suh’s (Map 9) Korean barbeque runs all night, Eating Meat type of cuisine, near a subway line convenient grinning since 1932. And many of us can’t survive as well as Bereket (Map 7), Odessa (Map 7), 7A for all parties involved, with atmosphere but not a day without at least one of the staples of NYC (Map 7), Yaffa Café (Map 7), and a host of generic New York is home to arguably the world’s best romantic, in a specific price range. And with over Jewish eats—bagels and knishes. For bagels, go diners. Employees Only (Map 5) serves a special steakhouse, Peter Luger’s (Map 29). But it’s com- 25,000 options, we can always find the perfect with perennial winners Ess-a-Bagel (Map 10, 13) “$11 Staff Meal,” available between midnight and 4 petitive at the top, and clawing at Luger’s heels place. Whether we’re looking for a restaurant with and H&H Bagels (Map 11, 14), or try our favorites: am. And, of course, Blue Ribbon (Map 6) is still one are: the newish Mark Joseph Steakhouse (Map a rare 28 from Zagat’s (the culinary Bible for many David’s Bagels (Map 7, 10), Kossar’s Bialys (Map of the best places to eat after midnight. 3), and classics like Sparks (Map 13), Palm (Map New Yorkers), or we want to roll the dice with an 4), Absolute Bagels (Map 16), or the original Tal 13), Smith & Wollensky (Map 13), Angelo & undiscovered hole in the wall where even the Bagels (Map 13). For knishes, nothing beats the Maxie’s (Map 10), and the Strip House (Map 6). Board of Health fears to tread, we will never have Yonah Schimmel Knish Bakery (Map 7). Eating Pizza For the Brazilian-style “all you can eat meat fest,” to settle. There is, of course, a huge drawback: we Pizza constitutes a food group unto itself for Churrascaria Plataforma (Map 11) does the trick. are downright spoiled. But I guess we’ll just have Eating Hip New Yorkers. The coal oven spots top most lists: As for hamburgers, the rankings provide material to live with that. Grimaldi’s (Map 30), Lombardi’s (Map 6), for eternal debate. Many of the favorites find their Eating hip usually involves the food of the moment Luzzo’s (Map 7), and the original Patsy’s (Map way to the top of some list or another: P.J. Clarke Eating Old (tacos, lobster rolls, Asian street food), beautiful 20) in East Harlem. The coal oven enjoys extra (Map 13), Corner Bistro (Map 5), Burger Joint at people (those who often look like they never eat), cachet by virtue of being illegal now, except in the Le Parker Meridien (Map 12), J.G. Melon (Map Since New York City is a culinary hotspot with lots and some kind of exclusivity (ridiculously long aforementioned eateries where they were already 15), Big Nick’s (Map 14), and Pastis, to name a of big names (and wannabe big names) at work waits, unpublished phone numbers, impossible- in operation when legislation was passed prohib- few. New on the scene is Royale (Map 7), where in the kitchens, it’s easy to get swept up in food to-come-by reservations, or no reservations at all). iting them. The brick oven joints, such as John’s they compliment the perfect patty with stellar trends that often involve dishes that look more Food snobs may warn you that the appetite that’s Pizzeria (Map 5), Nick’s (Map 17), Franny’s (Map fixin’s, for a song. For a change of pace from your like art projects than meals. Many of the more satisfied is the craving to see and be seen, rather 33), Slice of Harlem (Map 19), and Totonno’s burger tour, look for evidence that we Yankees experimental restaurants do merit attention, than the desire for the city’s best culinary experi- Pizzeria Napolitano (Map 10) never seem to can indeed produce some damn good BBQ: Blue but when you’re not in the mood for Parmesan ence. That being said, the ultimate in cool dining slow down either. A Brooklyn favorite, the cozy, Smoke (Map 10), Dinosaur Bar-B-Que (Map cheese ice cream with pesto foam in a braised is, of course, Rao’s (Map 20)—or so we hear. But family-run Amorina (Map 33), has the added 18), and RUB BBQ (Map 9) in Manhattan, and kale emulsion, you can avail yourselves of the unless you’re the Mayor, the Governor, or Woody benefit of spectacle—you literally watch your Smoke Joint (Map 31) and Fette Sau (Map 29) Big Apple’s time-honored stalwarts. Rub elbows Allen, you probably won’t be getting a reserva- pizza get made a few feet away from your table. in Brooklyn (arrive early at the latter, they run out with the who’s who at the posh 21 Club (Map tion anytime soon, so don’t hold your breath. It’s For a classic Village scene complete with live jazz, of the most popular items quickly). And wherever 12) (circa 1929); dine on New American cuisine a similar story at the newly renovated Graydon check out Arturo’s (Map 6) on Houston Street. you go, be prepared to wash down your ‘cue with at the ancient, 213-year-old Bridge Café (Map Carter–owned, restaurant-cum-speakeasy, The Pizza by the slice practically deserves its own some serious bourbon. 3); slurp fresh-shucked oysters under the vaulted, Waverly Inn (Map 5), where it is rumored that only category, but the highlights include Patsy’s (Map tiled ceiling at Grand Central Station’s Oyster A-listers have access to the secret phone number 20) and Joe’s (Map 5). Eating Meatless Bar (Map 13) (circa 1913), and do not miss their and the walk-in waits for a table can be epic (if not desserts; sample more oysters and one of the best eternal). In the realm of destinations accessible to We’re advanced enough here that most restau- burgers in existence at the venerable Midtown mere mortals with the patience of a saint, the per- Eating Ethnic rants (except perhaps those mentioned directly watering hole P.J.