09_573837 ch05.qxd 12/14/04 11:17 PM Page 85 5 Family-Friendly Dining In the gastronomic universe, New revolving showcase of whipped York has a fair number of star-quality cream–topped desserts. A number of restaurants, but are they worth it if trendy retro coffee shops have opened you’re eating out with your kids? in recent years, adding upscale parent- Fuhgeddaboudit. Le Bernardin and pleasing food to the traditional menu Nobu be damned—what I look for of burgers, omelets, and grilled cheese these days is a restaurant that’s noisy sandwiches. and casual, where the service is rela- I’m not a big fan of eating at side- tively speedy, and where the menu walk tables—I’d rather get away from includes at least one or two items from traffic and exhaust—but as soon as the my kids’ major food groups: chicken weather warms up, many families opt fingers, burgers, pasta, pancakes, and for restaurants with sidewalk seating. pizza, any or all of which could come The open-air arrangement minimizes with a side of fries. You can find your child’s noise, provides endless plenty of such restaurants in New distraction, and makes messes less York, and they won’t cost you an arm important (there’s always a pigeon or and a leg. two around to peck up dropped DINING OUT WITH YOUR KIDS french fries after you’ve cleared off). You know a restaurant welcomes kids Knowing how many Manhattan when they’ve printed up a place mat restaurants don’t work for smaller chil- for young customers to color and dren, for the most part I’ve tried to when you get to keep the crayons steer you towards those that do, you’re given to color it with. If they’ve although I also suggest some that gone to the trouble of developing a appeal best to older kids. If your specific children’s menu, that’s even youngsters are well-behaved, adven- better. A number of tourist-dependent turous eaters, your choice of eating restaurants around Times Square go places is obviously much broader. this route, and we’re grateful for them As far as hours go, most Manhattan in a pinch. For us adults, however, the restaurants serve continuously—you food is generally mediocre, and the can generally order dinner as early as only thingCOPYRIGHTED that’s relaxing about the 5pm MATERIALif that’s what you’re used to, ambience is that we don’t have to do though most New Yorkers eat around the dishes afterward. 7 or 8pm. If you’re dining anywhere in So we try to venture beyond Pizze- the Theater District (the W. 40s) or ria Uno and T.G.I. Friday’s. Ethnic near Lincoln Center (the W. 60s), restaurants are one good option—our you’ll be competing with lots of other kids will always eat pasta and rice— people trying to finish dinner before and New York, this great immigrant an 8pm curtain time; unless you’re city, is rich in these. Coffee shops are trying to make that curtain, too, delay another choice, and I don’t mean just your arrival until 7:30 or so, when the corner Greek joints with the most of these restaurants are ready to 09_573837 ch05.qxd 12/14/04 11:17 PM Page 86 86 CHAPTER 5 . FAMILY-FRIENDLY DINING draw a sigh of relief and relax. Simi- there are a number of kid-friendly larly, Midtown and Lower Manhattan chains—some local, some national— restaurants can be very busy from with several properties in New York 11:30am to 2:30pm. City that can be handy if you’re in the I’ve noted in this chapter if a given neighborhood. I don’t indicate a spe- restaurant doesn’t take reservations or cific price category for them, but their if reservations are generally necessary prices are uniformly low. to ensure a table. If there’s no notation Among the local burger restaurant about reservations, you have a fair chains, Jackson Hole offers burgers so chance of being seated even if you thick and juicy they’ll make your buns haven’t called ahead, but making a soggy (whatever that means), as well as reservation is always smart. Although grilled chicken sandwiches, some sal- some posh Manhattan restaurants still ads, and less successful Mexican dishes. cling to formal dress codes, requiring A local ethnic chain worth seeking out men to wear a jacket and tie, none of is Lemongrass Grill, for Thai food. the restaurants I list here do. Blockhead’s Burritos is a fun addition Because we do keep eating out reg- to the city’s dining scene, with a menu ularly, we long ago stopped bringing of tortilla-wrapped meals that go well toys to keep the kids occupied at the beyond the Mexican standards (like table (especially not if the restaurant the West Indian vegetable casserole tor- has a jukebox or big street-side picture tilla or the Bar-B-Cuban Chicken); window to view the passing show). teenagers in particular like its hipster Our 14-year-old is finally willing to decor and healthy emphasis on fresh try stuff like fondue and crab cakes vegetables, lean meats, and lard-free and mesclun salad. Even my picky- cooking. Bargain-hunters like the eater middle son has graduated from casual Dallas BBQ restaurants, where hamburgers to tempura shrimp and you can get big portions for under $10. grilled chicken. With all the wonder- The menu holds no surprises: barbe- ful restaurants in New York City, the cued chicken, barbecued baby back world is their oyster (just so long as we ribs, barbecued sliced beef, half-pound don’t expect them to eat oysters—at burgers (turkey or beef). Just beware if least not yet . .). you see a tour bus parked out front. A NOTE ABOUT PRICES The Pizzeria Uno is a known commod- following reviews include a range of ity: swift, cheery service; child-friendly specific menu prices as often as possi- amenities (kids’ menu, crayons, flimsy ble; I’ve also categorized the restau- activity booklet, drinks served in lid- rants as expensive, moderate, or ded plastic cups); and a saloonish inexpensive, based on rough estimates decor with wooden booths, black- of what it would cost to feed a family and-white tiled floors, and exposed- of four—two parents and two chil- brick walls. Both the deep-dish and dren, assuming that one of the kids is the thin-crust pizzas are decent; it’s young enough to be satisfied with when they go beyond pizzas that you either a kids’ meal or a half portion or can’t always be sure of what you’ll get. just an appetizer. If this mythical fam- Houlihan’s and T.G.I. Friday’s, both ily would have to spend $75 or more owned by the same organization, are for dinner (excluding any bar tab), I’ve dimly lit bar-and-burger joints. The classed that restaurant as expensive; service is fast, the regular menu spans between $50 and $75, moderate; everything from stir-fries to pastas to under $50, inexpensive. burritos, and the kids’ menu rivals a Happy Meal any day. Prices here may THE CHAIN GANG Besides the nudge up into the moderate range. restaurants covered in detail below, 09_573837 ch05.qxd 12/14/04 11:17 PM Page 87 RESTAURANTS BY CUISINE 87 A NOTE ABOUT FAST FOOD Sbarro’s just where you need one. The reality of eating out with small There’s also a McDonald’s delivery children is that fast-food joints are service operating in Manhattan (how sometimes a blessing. Most of those in New Yorkers do love to phone out for high-traffic areas of Manhattan are their food): Call & 212/337-3278 to spanking clean and recently reno- get your Happy Meals and Big Macs vated; somehow, there’s always a brought to your door. McDonald’s or a Burger King or a 1 Restaurants by Cuisine AMERICAN Manhattan Chili Company (Mid- America (Flatiron District, town, $, p. 119) $$, p. 121) Mickey Mantle’s (Midtown, $$$, American Girl Café (Mid- p. 112) town, $$$ p. 111) NoHo Star (Greenwich Village, Barking Dog Luncheonette $$, p. 126) (Upper East Side, $$, p. 106) Odeon (TriBeCa, $$, p. 138) Big City Bar and Grill (Upper East O’Neal’s (Upper West Side, $$, Side, $$, p. 107) p. 100) Boat Basin Café (Upper West Peanut Butter & Co. (Greenwich Side, $, p. 102) Village, $, p. 128) Bubby’s (TriBeCa, $, p. 138) Planet Hollywood (Midtown, $$$, Chat ’n’ Chew (Flatiron District p. 113) and Greenwich Village, $, Popover Café (Upper West Side, p. 122 and 127) $$, p. 100) Dorian’s (Upper West Side, $, Prime Burger (Midtown, $, p. 99) p. 120) Edward’s (TriBeCa, $, p. 139) Route 66 (Midtown, $, p. 120) Elephant and Castle (Greenwich Tavern on the Green (Upper West Village, $, p. 127) Side, $$$, p. 97) ESPN Zone (Midtown, $$, Telephone Bar & Grill (East p. 115) Village, $$, p. 131) Fanelli’s (SoHo, $, p. 134) Tennessee Mountain (SoHo, $$, Fetch (Upper East Side, $$, p. 134) p. 107) Texas Texas Restaurant and Saloon Flight 151 (Chelsea, $, p. 123) (Midtown, $$, p. 117) Friend of a Farmer (Gramercy Vesuvio Bakery Café (SoHo $$, Park, $$, p. 122) p. 135) Good Enough to Eat (Upper Virgil’s Real Barbecue (Mid- West Side, $$, p. 99) town, $$, p. 117) Hard Rock Cafe (Midtown, $$, BAGELS p. 115) Homer’s (Upper West Side, $, H&H Bagels (Upper West Side, $, p. 104) p. 98) Jekyll & Hyde Club (Midtown, H&H Bagels East (Upper East $$, p. 115) Side, $, p.