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by Rocky Dunnam, CEC, CDM, CFPP 1 HOUR CE CBDM Approved Memories of

Mealtime: Holiday Traditions

CULINARY CONNECTION

A CLOSER LOOK AT THE LINK BETWEEN MEMORY AND MEALTIMES

The dinner table is at the center of almost every social perceptions that when combined create long-lasting engagement. Whether we are talking about a first date, an memories of family, comfort, and warmth. This is why so anniversary, a union, a reunion, celebrations, mourning, or many people stress out about making the “perfect turkey” the bustling holiday season, the discussion always seems or get upset when Uncle Larry has too much eggnog. It’s to start with food. Even as you read that last sentence, not because the holiday is ruined, but it detracts from our you probably began remembering those special times in perception of the ideal holiday meal we strive for that’s your life. You may recall the smell of your grandmother’s based on memories or aspirations. apple pie, or that buttery aroma of the fresh-baked dinner Let’s look closer at the link between memory and rolls just as your family prepares to feast at Thanksgiving. mealtime. In doing so, we’ll be able to really make those You’re not alone, and this is certainly not an uncommon holiday memories that we all long for stick, and hopefully connection between your senses and your memories. overlook the imperfect ones. What’s probably even more accentuating is that the holiday season in particular is bound with other sensory

16 NUTRITION & FOODSERVICE EDGE | September-October 2017 [email protected]

THE SCIENCE connection, your experience THE APPLICATION Rocky Dunnam, is diminished. CEC, CDM, CFPP Our limbic system Let’s take all this science is the Executive comprises a set of structures THE REAL TALK and see what we can use Chef for the Bivins within the brain that science to our advantage as we Foundation, Bivins suggests play a critical Most of us probably don’t enter the holiday season. Pointe, EJB Culinary part in controlling mood, think much about our Understanding that Center, NINE- TEEN49 Catering, memory, and emotion. This olfactory function or our the sense of smell is so limbic system. These and Rock’D Recipes is often considered the powerful, it makes perfect in Amarillo, Texas. “primitive” part of the brain processes don’t just sense (no pun intended) because these structures stop because we aren’t that we begin to focus our exist in nearly all mammals, consciously engaged in efforts there. For most but can explain why smell them. They keep happening Americans, the holidays plays such an intriguing regardless of our acute are very similar in terms role. The part of the brain awareness. This is why we of traditions. We grew up called the hippocampus lose our appetite when we with the smells of crisp (one in each hemisphere) smell something disgusting fall nights, roasted turkey, is critical for memory, like garbage or sewage. The pumpkin pie, fresh bread, particularly for developing same is true for why we and so on. Because these long-term memories that get hungry when we smell smells are associated with can be recalled. Those fresh bread or BBQ smoke. a lifetime of memories, with full olfactory (smell) Why is this? Simply put, we it’s important that we function may be able to associate the smell of fresh incorporate a way for those recall certain memories bread or BBQ smoke with around us to experience based solely on smell. As the taste of the delicious them. we age and those functions finished product and the Following are some easy, decline, we have a more emotion of satisfaction. inexpensive ways to difficult time connecting John S. Allen wrote a book remember past holidays the memory to smell called The Omnivorous while creating new alone. Particularly with Mind, in which he examines memories this year. Parkinson’s and Alzheimer’s, the cultural and biological truths revealed by our a diminishing sense of smell Bake can be an early indicator relationship with food. From Seems simple, right? Let’s of onset of both diseases the diets of our ancestors, take it a step further. Let’s (which will occur several to cooking’s role in the bake a few pies throughout years before motor skill evolution of the human the day, and allow them to problems develop). Even in brain, to the preoccupations rest in common areas where individuals without these of contemporary foodies, their aroma can be fully two specific diseases, an Allen’s take on all things enjoyed by our clients. Try obstructed sense of smell edible is fascinating. He baking some fresh dinner can cause a myriad of other concluded that our evolved rolls and set them on the emotions. When was the psychology may make table with a warm cinnamon last time you had a cold? food one of the more likely butter before each meal Did you notice that when things in the environment during the holiday season. your nose is stuffed up, around which memories are Whatever you do, let you can’t really taste food formed and focused. that well? Because of this Continued on page 18 NUTRITION & FOODSERVICE EDGE | September-October 2017 17 Continued from page 17

the warm baked goods items like rosemary, garlic, cinnamon, and herbs. The resonate with the memory pecans, cinnamon, allspice, side dishes like mashed connections of those who cloves, etc. will have you potatoes and giblet gravy, smell the delectable fare. longing for the holiday green beans, cranberry season to last all year! sauce, etc. should never be Create the Appetite deconstructed (or whatever This is an old trick that Deliver the Nostalgia other term TV has taught many restaurants have It’s one thing to discuss you to do to great, time- used for years. The idea is “what” our memories have tested recipes). Trust me to create an appetite with created a fondness for, but on this one, stick with the particular smells before another entirely to deliver classics…that’s where the any food hits the table. that memorable meal. I memory is! For the holiday season, I recommend sticking to the like to place ingredients in basics. Don’t reinvent the Think Beyond a smoking hot saute pan wheel! We (and our clients Thanksgiving/Christmas and just walk through the too) long for the classic It’s easy to focus all of dining room. The aroma of roast turkey that’s stuffed our efforts on two meals with aromatics like apple, each holiday season: Thanksgiving Day and Christmas Day. I challenge you to really create a memorable season where you are. This is very simple to do. Probably the easiest way is to add some of the ingredients to your menu starting as early as October. On my menu, you’ll begin to see beets, Brussels sprouts, cranberries, greens (chard and escarole), sweet potatoes, pumpkin, pomegranate, nuts, and a Bon Appetit variety of seasonal spices Offer the freedom of choice with Burlodge’s new beginning in the last few Bon Appetit mobile service cart weeks of October. You Designed with durability, functionality and value. The Bon don’t even have to create Appetit Cart integrates innovation and simplicity to facilitate an entirely new menu; just personalized meal service interaction - there is a better way. add some of the ingredients • Two individually heated • One ambient lower food wells (wet or dry) compartment with hide- to existing menu items. • Fully insulated hinged top away door For example, pomegranate covers • Ergonomic Push/Pull • One heated lower handle on both sides makes a great vinaigrette compartment with hide- • Retractable service shelf for a salad (even add pecans away door or walnuts); incorporate a Soup of the Day that utilizes www.burlodgeusa.com seasonal squash, pumpkin,

18 NUTRITION & FOODSERVICE EDGE | September-October 2017 beets, etc.; or begin to season with created during this magical season the fall/winter spices when you roast, will come to your aid as you force a saute, or bake (think cinnamon, recollection of the associated emotions. allspice, coriander, clove, nutmeg, If you recall your favorite memories etc.). This will start to develop an with friends and family, I’ll bet that atmosphere of expectation that draws memory includes some of the foods on memories of past holiday seasons. included above. Now, as foodservice professionals, we can use the science CONCLUSION to create memories of our own. Some Simply doing these four things will people call me a dreamer, but I firmly dramatically increase your impact this believe that a memorable holiday holiday season. The strong ties to the experience is only one meal away! E lifetime of memories that have been

1 HOUR CE Questions CE CBDM Approved

CULINARY CONNECTION

Reading Memories of Mealtime: Holiday Traditions and successfully completing these questions online has been approved for 1 hour of continuing education for CDM, CFPPs. CE credit is available ONLINE ONLY. To earn 1 CE hour, purchase the online CE quiz in the ANFP Marketplace. Visit www.ANFPonline.org/market, select “Publication,” then select “CE article” at left, then search the title “Memories of Mealtime: Holiday Traditions” and purchase the article.

1. What system is suggested to play a critical role in 5. What is the strongest sense tied to memory? memory? A. Sense of security A. Limbic system B. Sense of smell B. Skeletal system C. Sense of sight C. POS system 6. What does the hippocampus do? 2. Our sense of smell is scientifically called what? A. Applies motor skills A. Snouterly B. Nothing, it’s dead space B. Olfactory C. Critical for memory C. Smellinious 7. When should I begin using holiday-type ingredients? 3. What is the title of John S. Allen’s book on our relationship A. When they are in season...usually around October with food? B. Whenever I want, ingredients are available year-round A. The Omnivorous Mind C. On Thanksgiving Day and Christmas Eve B. Food and Family C. Cuisine: The Experience 4. What are four ways to recall or create memories during the holiday season? A. Bake, roast, boil, and steam food B. Entertain, sing, dance, and mime C. Bake, create the appetite, deliver the nostalgia, think beyond Thanksgiving/Christmas

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