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The Changing Landscape of the Central Jordan Valley

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SCRIPT A HIEROSOLY\HTANA ~ · - PUBLICATIONS OF THE HEBREW UNIVERSITY, JERUSALEM VOLUME X\' STUDIES IN GEOGRAPHY Pamphlet No. 3 THE CHANGING LANDSCAPE OF THE CENTRAL JORDAN VALLEY BY YEHOSHUA BEN-AHIEH Department of Geography JERUSALEM, 1968 AT THE MAGNES PRESS, THE HEBREW UNIVERSITY CONTENTS PREFACE INTRODUCI'ION: PHYSICAL BACKGROUND SURFACE CONFIGURATIO~ ,)·• CLIMATE WATER RESOURCES 7 SETTLEMENT IN HISTORICAL PERIODS THE CJV AS A SETTLEMENT REGION ... 1l THE REGION AS A CROSSROADS 13 PREHISTORIC PERIODS a. The Old Stone Age (Palaeolithic) 17 Distributed in Great Britain, the British Commonwealth and Europe b. The Middle Stone Age (Mesolithic) :w by the Oxford University Press c. The New Stone Age (Neolithic) 20 d. Conclusions 20 EARLY HISTORICAL TIMES a. The Chalcolithic Period 21 b. The Bronze Age 22 c. The Iron Age 25 LATE HISTORICAL PERIODS a. The Hellenistic, Roman, and Byzantine Period 2() b. The Early Arab Period 29 c. From the Middle Ages to the 19th Century ... 30 THE NINETEENTH CENTURY a. Settlements and Nomadic Tribes :B b. Agriculture -l2 THE REVOLUTIONARY CHANGES IN THE TWENTIETH CE:\TUHY THE BEGINNING OF THE CHANGE a. Types and Ideas of Early Jewish Settlement ... 47 b. The First Moshava - l\Iena~emya 43 c. The First National Farm and the © Second Moshava at Kinneret 50 d. The First "Kevutza", Deganya A 53 e. The Second "Kevutza", Kinneret and Bitanya Farm ... 56 Printed in Israel f. The First \Vorld \Var and General Developments 59 at Goldberg's Press Ltd. Jerusalem GROWTH AND DEYELOPl\lENT DURING THE BRITISH MANDATE a. The Third and Fourth Kibbutzim - Dt'ganya B and Bet Zera' 64 b. The Jordan Aqueduct; Afiqim; The "Kibbutz State" 68 PREFACE c. The Power Station at Naharayim; Development of the West Bank of the Jordan 70 The Central Jordan Valley is that part of the valley which lies between d. Gesher and Ashdot Ya'aqov ... 73 the Sea of Galilee in the north and the Bet She'an Valley in the south. e. The General Settlement Situation m the Mid·1930's 75 f. The Zema~ Land and the "Tower and Though very small in area, it possesses many distinctive geographical Stockade" Settlements 77 features which merit particular attention. In this region there flourished g. Increased Irrigation; the Yarmuk Aqueducts; some of the most important prehistoric and historic cultures of Israel. Reallocation of Land 80 During recent times it has undergone a radical change. Formerly a 86 h. The End of the British Mandate marginal region on the borders of the desert, inhabited only by Bedouin THE CENTRAL JORDAN VALLEY TODAY tribes, it has become one of the most prosperous agricultural regions in a. Changes during the First Two Decades the country. The first "kevutza" (communal settlement) in Israel was of the State of Israel 89 established in this area and the ideas of regional co-operation were given b. Agriculture, Industry, and Regional Co·operation 95 here their first expression. One of these ideas was to unite all the settle­ c. The Use. Problems, and Future of Water in the Region 105 ments in the region to form one large "Kibbutz State". The interesting development pattern of settlement in this area was made possible by the CONCLUDING REMARKS geographical conditions, the level topography of the Jordan Valley, easily PARALLELS BETWEEN PAST AND PRESENT 117 workable soils, and above all the abundance of water. THE CONTRAST BETWEEN JEWISH AND ARAB VILLAGES 120 The aim of this essay is to present a picture of settlement in this region THE DISTINCTI\"ENESS OF JEWISH SETTLEMENT IN THE CJV 121 THE CJV - ISRAEL IN MINIATURE 122 at various historical periods, emphasizing the most recent changes which are, to a great extent, typical of the impact of modern Jewish settlement Bibliography 125 on the landscape and the general development of Israel. This essay is List of 1\laps ... 129 the fruit of study and lengthy research in the CJV. The regional research List of Photographs 130 project merited summary in a book published in Hebrew (Bibliography). Abbreviations 131 The present essay differs from the former in that it concentrates on one aspect of the region alone - the changes in its settlement pattern. Within this framework, subject matter was consolidated and many comments were added relating to the conclusions and summaries about the subject. The research was carried out before the Six Days War in June 1967. Therefore, this publication does not deal with changes that occurred in the CJV and Israel after the war. A list of the sources is given at the end of the book. Sources are also briefly mentioned in brackets in the text of the book, including only the author's surname and the date of publication. The second part of the Pssay which dPals with Jewish settlement is based mainly on internal reports of the various settlements and of the local authorities of the region. These reports are generally not found in libraries. I have listed the more important of these in the Bibliography but only a few within the body of the book. Spelling of place names, both Hebrew and Arabic, follows the official tran~cription rules employed in the maps of the Government Department of Surveys. The only exception is Umm Jiinieh, taken in this form from tlw map of the Palestine Exploration Fund, because it is locally better known than the official form , Umm Juna. I am indebted to many sources who helped me in this work. Mention of all their names here would produce a long list, so I would like to take this opportunity of thanking them all for their generous assistance. Special thanks are due to the Regional Council of Emek HaYarden for thP as~i~tance in fieldwork and for part of the photographs published in INTRODUCTION: PHYSICAL BACKGROUND this study. ).!r;:;. Y. Elgad, 1\lrs. J. Pomeranz, and Mr. N. Kadmon assisted in hrinl!inl! the material to the press . Professor Amiran read, and commented on. the concludin~ chapters. 1\Iy thanks to them all, as well as to the Drpartmt'nt of Geography of the Hebrew University for financial help, and The :.\lagnPs Press and Goldherg's Press for the production of the hook. Jerm:alem. 1968 Y. BEN-ARIEH SURFACE CONFIGURATION The Central Jordan Valley forms part of the Jordan-'Arava depres­ sion which extends throughout the whole length of Israel. In the part of the depression extending from the Sea of Galilee in the north to about 30 km south of the Dead Sea there existed during the Late Pleistocene an inland lake. This lake is known today as the Lisan (Arabic: tongue) Lake, after the deposits which were first identified in the Lisan "tongue" of the Dead Sea. The deposits of this lake form today the flat floor of the Jordan Valley which is known as "Kikkar HaYarden" (Arabic:, Ghor). After some time, the Pleistocene Lisan Lake began to shrink in the direction of the Dead Sea basin. It left behind a residual lake which is known today as the Sea of Galilee. The Lower Jordan began to cut its alluvial valley as it flowed from the Sea of Galilee towards the retreating and shrinking lake across the area of the present Kikkar Ha­ y arden, so that an alluvial valley was developed. This valley (Arabic : Zor) lies some 20-30 m below the level surface of Kikkar Ha Yarden, and it is only a few hundred meters wide. In the northernmost part of Kikkar HaYarden, i.e. in the CJV, there is another alluvial valley ~ that of the largest tributary of the Jordan : the Yarmuk. This tributary leaves the mountains and cuts its way down into Kikkar HaYarden, building its own flood·plain. The alluvial valley (Zor) of the Yarmuk is wider than that of the Jordan and in some places reaches a width of 2 km. The alluvial valleys of the Jordan and the Yarmuk form a triangle, of Kikkar Ha Yard en which has its base on the southern shore of the Sea of Galilee and its apex at the confluence of the Jordan and the Yarmuk. The triangle is completed in the north by the steep hill of Tel Qa?ir. The level of Kikkar HaYarden in the CJV is approximately 200 m below the level of the Mediterranean. On both sides of the CJV the ground rises to several hundred metres ( 400-500 m) above the valley. This section of the Central Jordan Valley is about 10 km long and 10 km wide so that its area is about 100 sq. km. 3 LAK-E TIBf:T\lA5 / i lake Kinneret .,, IT•I-Aviv . Yaffo ""'""~:== I • ---­---­- z 2 ""''''" '" 'l:o .•tSntMnh • Gazo ... 3 0 f,_,..·· 0 5 0 soo 1ooom 6 { ..................) ZoS 2. The I. The old channel of the Jordan outlet 2 Km. 2. The Jordan channel prior to operation of the Naharayirn plant 3. Escarpment I. Th,. Central Jordan Yalley. General picture. 4. Boundary between Kikkar HaYarden (Ghor) and alluvial ,·alley (Zor) 1. Kibbutz. " Mo~havn. 3. Regional School. 4. Educational Centre. 5. Road 5. Regional Council. 6. Frontier. CLIMATE receives the highest rainfall in the Jordan Rift Valley south of the Sea of Galilee, it also has higher than average temperatures and particularly The average rainfall in the CJV is approximately 400 mm per annum. strong winds. Characteristic of the region are the lateness of the rains and the frequent occurrence of cloudbursts in the early and latter part of the year. WATER RESOURCES The average annual temperature is 23•c. In summer there is a marked difference in temperature between this area and the coastal plain near The abundance of water is undoubtedly the most important factor that Haifa, the rise in temperature from winter to summer being very rapid.
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