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Aubrey Beardsley's Inages of New Ren in T1 Ye11c Q Book Aubrey Beardsley's Inages of New ren in t1 Ye11c q Book Ph.D Thesis History of Art University College Lordon Bridget Jane Elliott June 1985 Abstract The nuch publicized debate surrounding Beardsley 's illustrations for the first four volurres of the Yellow Book is analyzed as a manifestation of the ongoing debate over the 'Wcxnan Question'. The tirre fraire investigated spans the Bodley Head's launching of the magazine in April 1894, until Bearc3sley was fired as art editor the following april because of his connections with Oscar Wilde, whose sensational trial preoccupied the London media. With few exceptions (27 cxt of 31), Beardsley s illustrations for the Yellow Book were pictures of waren which the magazine 's reviewers, buyers and readers tended to identify with the anancipated 'New Wnan - of the nineties. This concept of the 'New Wanari' who dnanded cultural and social uality with man, is first examined in relation to the feninist noverrent and the social status of xren during the l890s. Then various literary, theatrical, and journalistic representations of 'advanced' nen are carpared to prevailing stereotypes of 'natural' or 'normal' females. The predaminantly middle-class interest in both the 'Wcxnan Question' and the Yellow Book is discussed as important parts of newly rerging alternative posions which were rapidly fragmanting the literary market-place. Much of the , utrage surrounding Beards ley 's pictures is attributed to the factthe quarterly was unexpectedly purchased by a new catgegory of unsuspecting, middle-class consurrers who had previously borrowed most of their reading material frait the carefully vetted lists of circulating libraries. In addition, the public response to the different categories of Beard4l..ey 's 'nen - his images of soIren reading, prostitutes and other sexual 'deviants', actresses, and masqueraders, is studied in detail. Sare contnporaries connected Beardsley 's illustrations with other 'deviant' socio-cultural develrents (e.g. New Art, New Literature, New Theatre, socialism and decadence), all of which were seen to be directly undermining the moral fabric of society by upsetting existing social and sexual norma. Scue inplications of these repeated associations are explored. 2 ble of Ccmtits Abstract. 1 List of Figures . 4 ListofThb]esj3 nowl3gaxits .14 Introduction..........................15 Section Qe: vnas Sexual Deviants ................40 I Theories of Sexual Deviance ...........44 II The Feminine Ideal ................49 111 New Watn and Late Victorian Fininists ......55 IV Visual Stereotypes of New Wan .........78 V Beardsley's Inages of Deviant Wanen .......84 VI Beardsley as an Effeminate Deviant .......107 Footnotes....................113 [: 'ft Yellow Both's location in the Literary Market-Place of 1894-1895 .................131 I Beardsley as a Publisher's Illustrator ......133 II The Yellow Book as a Bodley Head Production . 137 III Praition of the Periodical ...........143 IV Book Prices, Purchasing Power, and Readership. .162 V A Spectacle for Suburbia .............178 VI New Wanen, Pornography and the Prosecution ofPick-Me-Up ..................185 Footnotes ....................194 Three: N Wiin cm the Lcrt3rii Stage: Beardsleys Inages Actresses in the Yellow Book .............208 I The New Theatre of the Nineties.........212 II Beardsley's Design for the Playgoer's Club. 217 III The Infanous Salciie Illustrations.........218 IV The Avenue Theatre Poster.............232 V Mrs. Patrick Campbell...............248 VIRejane......................267 VII La Dame aux Caielias...............273 VIIIWinnif red Dery..................282 IX Walter Sickert's Music Hall Illustrations.....286 Footnotes.....................294 3 Fxir: Spectators axx Spectacles: Beardsley 'S Inages of ?'scp.rades . 314 I French Masquerade Imagery.317 II Ninetnth Century E-ig1ish squerades......321 III Covent Garden Fancy Dress Balls..........326 IV Flirtatious Folly or Serious Socio-Sexual Thansgression'..................339 Footnotes.....................350 E i1ogL1e ............................ 356 Selected Bibliography .....................361 4 List of Figures 1. 'Jottings of the Week', Pall Mall Budget (May 10, 1894), p. 9. 2. E.T.R. [alward Reed], 'She-Notes', Punch (March 17, 1894), p. 129. 3. Arthur Rackham, cover design, The New Fiction by the Philistine (Indon: Westminster Gazette Office, 1895). 4. R.A.B. 'A Perplexed Councillor', Sketch (October 31, 1894), p. 15. 5. George Du Maurier, 'The Latest Literary Success', Punch (October 26, 1895), p. 202. 6. Elliman 's Universal ETbrocation advertisnent, Sketch (August 1, 1894), P . 47. 7. Ellirnan's Universal Erbrocation advertisrent, Sketch (May 29, 1895), p. 267. 8. E.T.R. [Edward Reed], AValentyne', Punch (February 16, 1895), p. 81. 9. Jess C., 'The Topsy rvydan of the Sexes', Punch (July 25, 1894), p. 7. 10. Arthur Rackharn, 'Our Daughters on Strike', Westminster Budget. (January 26, 1894), p. 17. 11. C. Harrison, 'The Refined Lady and Gentleman Guest Hire Association', Pall Mall Budget (May 16, 1895), p. 3. 12. Walter Buckler, 'Pheasant Shooting', Sketch (October 31, 1894), p. 36. 13. George Du Maurier, 'Passionate Female Literary Types,' Punch (June 2, 1894), p. 255. 14. Phil May, 'The &mking Roan of a Ladies Club', Pall Mall Budget (December 27, 1894). 15. Fred Pegrani, 'Easter Man-oeuvres -, Pall Mall Budget (pril 18, 1895). 16. 'The Latter-Day Girl', Punch (May 19, 1894), p. 229. 17. George Du Maurier, 'CaTensation -, Punch (Fthniary 23, 1895), p. 90. 5 18. 'Misoneogyny', Punch (July 20, 1895), p. 35. 19. Aubrey Beardsley, 'How to Court the ?i3vanced wcxnan', Idler (Septnber, 1894), p. 192. 20. Aubrey Beards ley, cover, Keynotes by George Egerton (London: Bodley Head, 1893). 21. George Du Maurier, 'Our Decadents (Fa1e)', Punch (June 23, 1894), p. 299. 22. Aubrey Beardsley, title-page, Yellow Book I (April, 1894). 23. Aubrey Beardsley, 'L'Education Senti.mentale Yellow Book I (April, 1894). 24. Aubrey Beardsley, 'A Night Piece -, Yellow Book I (April, 1894). 25. 'How it is Done (An Art Recipe)', Punch (July 28, 1894), p. 47. 26. Epire Theatre, exterior view, Illustrated London News (April 26, 1884), p. 408. 27. Aubrey Beards ley, 'A Suggested Reform in Ballet Costurre', later published in A Lorxon Garland (London: MacMillan, 1895). 28. Untitled Enpire prarenade cartoon, Pick-Me-Up (April 28, 1894), p. 58. 29. 'Surely they can 't take rre for a Prude on the Prowl', Pick-Me-Up (tcember 8, 1894), p. 156. 30. Aubrey Beards ley, 'The Cciredy Ballet of Marionettes - I', Yellow Book II (July, 1894). 31. Aubrey Beardsley, 'The Ccinedy Ballet of Marionettes - II' Yellow Book II (July, 1894). 32. Aubrey Beardsley, 'me Ccinedy Ballet of Marionettes - III' Yellow Book II (July, 1894). 33. George Du Maurier, 'Our Decadents -, Punch (May 19, 1894), p. 234. 34. Max Beerbthm, 'Mr. Phil May and Mr. Aubrey Beardsley', Pall Mall Budget (June 7, 1894), p. 12. 35. 'Phil May and Aubrey Beardsley', Sun (March 28, 1895), p. 1. 36. Aubrey Beardsley, 'Self-portrait', in Margaret ArnDur, 'Aubrey Beardsley and the Decadents', Magazine of Art 20 (1896), p. 2. 6 37. 'An Illustration to the Gospel of Ib-ty. By Baudry Weirdsley', ¶[-Dy (Septexrber 22, 1984), p. 198. 38. 'Yvette Guilbert', ¶L\-Day (May 12, 1894), p. 13. 39. Aubrey Beardsley, Yellow Book prospectus, (1894), cover 40. Aubrey Beardsley, Yellow Book poster, (1894). 41. G&)rge Du Maurier, 'The Sexo-Mania', Punch (March 25, 1895), p. 138. 42. 'The Yellow Boot', Granta (April 21, 1894), p. 271. 43. 'A Bookworm', St. Paul's (June 2, 1894), p. 124. 44. 'In the Library', St. Jans Budget (May 3, 1895), p. 36. 45. Marurice Greiffenhagen, 'At Mudie's', Pall Mall Budget (June 28, 1894), p. 25. 46. Aubrey Beardsley, 'Pseudonym and Autonym ' poster (1894). 47. Maurice Greiffenhagen, Pall Mall Budget advertisenent, Pall Mall Budget (May 31, 1894), p. 4. 48. Di.xiley Hardy, To-I)ay nasthead, 'lb-Day (July 14, 1894). 49. Aubrey Beardsley, Yellow Book poster [not used 1, (1894). 50. Aubrey Beardsley, sketch of Henry Harland in 'Wbat the 'Yellow Book' is to be: Sane Maditations with its Editors', Sketch (April 11, 1894), p. 557. 51. Aubrey Beardsley, sketch of himself in 'Wbat the 'Yellow Book is to be: Sane Maditaticris with its Editors -, Sketch (April 11, 1894), p. 557. 52. Advertisei:rent for the Yellow Book, Athenauem (June 7, 1894), p. 279. 53. Advertiseient for the Yellow Book, Truth (April 19, 1894), p. 911. 54. Arthur Rackhain, 'The Bitter Cry of the Three Voluire Novel', Westminster Budget (July 13, 1894), p. 32. 55. E.T.R. [Edward Reed], 'Published at the Bodily Head', Punch (March 2, 1895), p. 101. 7 56. Arthur Rackham, 'A Nightmare Indeed', Westminster Budget (July 20, 1894), p. 17. 57. Sydney Adainson, 'The B. P. and its Masters', To-Day (May 12, 1894), p. 10. 58. 'Phoebe', Pick-Me-Up (July 21, 1894), sujplertent. 59. 0. Wilson, 'The Entre'Acte', Pick-Me-Up (July 21, 1894). 60. Untitled girl in tights, Pick-Me-Up (July 21, 1894). 61. 'The Learned Reoorder Can't See It - and 'The Attitude of the Bar', Pick-Me-Up (Spetember 8, 1894), supplerrent, p. ii. 62. Aubrey Beardsley, 'The Mysterious Rose Garden', Yellow Book IV (January 1895). 63. Aubrey Beardsley, 'Lady Gold's Escort', Yellow Book III (October 1894). 64. Aubrey Beardsley, 'The Wagrierites', Yellow Book III (October 1894). 65. Aubrey Beardsley, 'Sarah Bernhardt', c.1888. Pencil drawing. 66. Aubrey Beardsley, 'Ibsen 's Ghosts Act I', c. 1890. Pencil, pen and ink drawing. 67. Aubrey Beardsley, 'Miss Terry '[ Caricature of Ellen Terry as Rcsamund in Becket], Pall Mall Budget (February 9, 1893), p. 188; and 'Forbes Robertson [Caricature of Forbes Robertson as Julian Beauclerc in Diplomacy] 68. 'In Edern Mente' , fran Charles Henry Ross, Stage Whispers and Shouts Whithout: A Book bout Plays and Playgoers, Actors and Actresses (London: Judy Office, n.d. [1881 1), p. 29. 69. C.H. [Charles Harrison], 'The New School of Poster: What It May Cane 'Ib', Pall Mall Budget (May 10, 1894), p. 19 70. Aubrey Beardsley, 'The Playgoer's Club Menu (Tenth Annual Dinrr, London, January 28, 1894).
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