Food Journalism Or Culinary Anthropology? Re- Evaluating Soft News and the Influence of Jeanne Voltz's Food Section in the L

Food Journalism or Culinary Anthropology? Re-evaluating Soft News and the Influence of Jeanne Voltz’s Food Section in the Los Angeles Times

By Kimberly Wilmot Voss

Jeanne Voltz was a groundbreaking food editor at the Los Angeles Times in the 1960s—a time of great change for journalism and gender roles. This articles outlines her career path and includes an analysis of her work at the Times, including her approach to food journalism as a mix of hard news, such as food safety and consumer awareness; and soft news, including recipes, and restaurant reviews. The research illuminates the significance of food sections and lays the foundation for future research on the contributions of women to food journalism.

efore the success of the Food Network and the popularity of competitive cooking programs such as Bravo’s BTop Chef, aspiring foodies relied on the food sections of their local newspapers for their gastronomical fix. These sections, thick with grocery store advertisements in the 1950s and 1960s, originated in the women’s pages—narrowly defined as the fashion and household pages—of metropolitan dailies across the country. A staple of mid-century metropolitan newspapers, food sections continue today. Then as now, food sections reflected gender roles, health standards, and governmental policies about food in a community. They also reflected the devel- Kimberly Wilmot Voss is oping demographic of many cities as new im- an associate professor of journalism in the Nicholson migrants settled into communities and shared School of Communication, their dishes. Lastly, these sections related sto- PO Box 161344, Orlando, ries about food—creating a form of culinary FL 32816–1344. (618)541– 4949, voss.kimberly@gmail anthropology, as Jeanne Voltz, the former Los .com Angeles Times food editor, once described her

66 • American Journalism — work.1 In her more than forty years as a journalist, Voltz became what one culinary authority described as “the best-known food expert you’ve probably never heard of.” 2 Her writing encompassed a mix of the people and the dishes of the communities she covered, the news of governmental and health studies that defined a time period, and an examination of history through food. For example, Voltz once debunked the biblical tale that Eve tempted Adam with an apple. Considering the evolution of language, Voltz wrote, the tempting fruit was likely a mango, a persimmon, or an apricot.3 Food sections do not have a well-documented history beyond brief mentions of women’s pages. (The few newspaper options for women prior to the early 1970s were in the women’s pages. These sections were known for the four Fs: family, fashion, food, and fur- nishings.) Prior to the women’s liberation movement, food was the rare topic on which women could claim authority. Some of these women’s-section writers were simply cooks for their families looking for paid work, while just as many were college-educated reporters who could not find jobs in the news sections.4 And a third category included graduates of home economics programs who practiced their expertise as food writers.5 Regardless of their back- grounds, they made a difference in the menus of their communities. As gender roles were changing in society, Voltz guided two of the most significant food sections in the country—at the Miami Herald in the 1950s and at the Los Angeles Times in the 1960s. This research analyzes her work at the Times during the heyday of the sections, and shows that a women’s section was laying the foundation for food journalism years well before the current surge. It also demonstrates that food journalism can tell much about a community’s ethnic growth, gender roles, and health issues at a particular time, supporting Voltz’s food anthropologist analogy. By identifying these themes found in Voltz’s reporting, this research establishes a place for Voltz and the value of the food sections in the annals of journalism history. It builds on the work of those who have examined materials like cookbooks, to better understand the lives of women who are often left out of other historical accounts.6

Dismissing the Food Section Myth For years, food sections were viewed as little more than a collection of casserole recipes and plugs for local grocery stores and other advertisers.7 In David Kamp’s captivating history of Ameri- can food, women’s pages are largely dismissed, although he does

— Spring 2012 • 67 refer to the “Jell-O-abusing women’s-page ladies” 8 and their simple newspaper sections. But these women actually played a significant role in the story of food, and a look at the Los Angeles Times food section in the 1960s during the Voltz years shows the depth of food journalism. Voltz had a traditional reporting background and developed her food skills later. Even after becoming an editor, she contributed several stories each week to her section. As this research shows, Voltz’s articles were about topics such as food safety, foreshadowing problems with food contamination that persist today, and consumer issues that might have run counter to the inter- ests of clients advertising in her section. Other articles viewed food through societal elements, coverage that went beyond recipes. That is not to dismiss the value of the recipes, however, which reflected a changing American appetite following World War II and the impact of women working outside of the home.9

Food Editors Earn Their Place Women’s pages, where the food section was usually found, were also the site of “soft news.” In these sections were fashion news and stories about weddings. Yet, these sections afforded women a certain authority. The American Press Institute’s 1951 industry publication Fashion in Newspapers observed that “No aspect of the news is further from the comprehension of the average male editor than fashion.” 10 In addition, stories about child abuse, domestic violence, and pay inequity were sprinkled among the traditional content.11 Dorothy Jurney, considered the godmother of women’s page editors, encouraged other women’s page editors to add stories about political and social issues, as well as features about professional women. Jurney explained her approach in an article in a 1956 American Society of Newspaper Editors’ publication, noting that the home beat, just like the police beat, should follow traditional news values.12 A regular part of these women’s sections were food pages, whose editors wielded notable influence. According to a 1953 article in Time: “In US dailies, few staffers exert more direct influence on readers than the food editor; only the front page and the comics have a bigger readership.” 13 In 1950, the journalism industry publication Editor & Publisher reported that the number of newspaper food editors had grown from 240 to 561 in one year. The reporter noted, “Hundreds of newspapers, which in the past have paid scant attention to the subject, are realizing the reader interest and the ad-

68 • American Journalism — vertising revenue possibilities of food and are appointing qualified editors to turn out readable food pages.” 14 Whereas most of these sections appear to have run in the women’s pages, only men were quoted in the article. It was reported that the Associated Press had assigned a man, Jack Ryan, to cover the subject, although there is no record of his work in this area. According to food writer David Kamp, the premier New York food journalists of that time were Mc- Call’s editor Helen McCully, the New York Times’ Jane Nickerson, the Associated Press’ Cecily Brownstone, and the Herald Tribune’s Clementine Paddleford. The journalists regularly socialized with James Beard, a prominent American chef.15 The food industry organized meetings for food editors at which the journalists learned about new products and new techniques in food preparation. It provided the women a chance to socialize and network at a time when they were excluded from other journalism organizations. A primary reason the food editors attended the conferences, however, was to take part in the reporting contests; their newspapers regularly publicized the work of the winners. If there was any question about who was doing the food writing, consider that the award was named for Vesta, the mythical goddess of home and hearth. The food sections themselves were evaluated on their service to readers, journalistic writing style, use of pictures, page design, nutrition, originality, timeliness, and thoroughness.16 Awards were given in different circulation categories and black- and-white versus color pages. A newspaper professional was among the group judging the entries. For example, in 1965 the judges were William Blair of the New York Times and president of the National Press Club; Emilie Hall, with the College of Home Economics at Cornell University and whose title was listed as editor;17 and Robert Barbour, editor of Public Relations Reporter.18

Food Journalism Ethics Takes a Hit Journalism is largely guided by a separation between editorial and advertising. This separation encourages objectivity by mak- ing sure that advertisers do not influence the newspaper content. In 1971, US Sen. Frank Moss of Utah in a speech at a food editors’ meeting raised a concern over advertisers’ influence on food sections. “Too often our food pages are first-rate press agentry,” he argued. Moss asked the editors, “How much of your reporting (from the conference) is hard news and how much is plugging?” Further, had the editors “ever found fault with the food industry and its

— Spring 2012 • 69 product?” 19 In newspaper interviews, Moss claimed that food editors operating “in a rarified atmosphere clouded with smoke blown by industry press releases have simply lagged behind the healthy growth of responsible consumer journalism.” 20 It was at this time that the Columbia Journalism Review, an industry publication, featured an investigative article about food reporting. The article’s subhead was, “The food section is the cash register of the newspaper, a happy hunting ground for advertisers.” 21 The article featured numerous accusations about conflicts of interest. The author also noted that the Los Angeles Times’ com- petitor, the Los Angeles Examiner’s food editor, was still on the advertising payroll. Voltz (referred to as “Miss Voltz”) was quoted in the story: “The freebee has a subtle effect on the food editor. By getting a particular product free of charge on a regular basis, the food editor avoids thinking of the perhaps-exorbitant cost of the product she will advocate.” 22 Food journalist Ann Hamman, who earned a master’s degree in home economics from Purdue Univer- sity, responded with a full-page letter to the editor of the Columbia Journalism Review. She wrote: “The food editors I know are an extremely conscientious lot. Naturally, they are concerned about the financial well-being of their newspapers. But they are not about to promote something they think is not good just because the manu- facturer is an advertiser.23 As for Voltz, she was a journalist and thus followed the ethical guidelines of her profession. She only agreed to leave newspapers for a magazine journalism job after twice being reassured by her new employer that the advertising side would have no influence on her editorial copy.24 In a 1986 handwritten note to fellow journalist Helen Muir, Voltz lamented the gossip that the Washington Post was publishing: “Speaking of Sally Quinn, some of her pronounce- ments make me take a little less pride in my profession. Or, as we agree often, realize that ethics have gone the way of buggy whips.” 25

Historians Discover Food Journalism According to journalism industry publications, the popularity of culinary or food journalism is a recent phenomenon. In 2003, the Columbia Journalism Review featured an article about the trend dubbed “Food Porn.” 26 The following year, the American Journal- ism Review also noted the trend. The author observed, “Food journalism, once a throwaway compendium of recipes and ‘what’s hot’ articles, has gone upscale.” 27 These authors trivialize the contribu-

70 • American Journalism — tions of women’s-page journalists, who, prior to the demise of the sections in the early 1970s, laid the foundation for food journalism. A few historians and culinary writers are just beginning to study these women food journalists. One notable example is Hometown Appetites, a biography of longtime New York Herald Tribune food reporter Clementine Paddleford, by Kelly Alexander and Cynthia Harris.28 Long overshadowed by the New York Times’ Craig Clai- borne, a master of self-promotion, food writers like Paddleford were quite influential in their time. According to an article by Alex- ander, “Paddleford’s genius lay in tapping into what she knew best: authentic home cooking. And she used her pulpit to spread local cooks’ favorite recipes, and the stories behind them, from coast to coast.” 29 Mary Margaret McBride, radio personality and author of Mary Margaret McBride’s Harvest of American Cooking, featured recipes on a state-by-state basis.30 Voltz’s work was different in that she focused on the local fare of Los Angeles and Southern Califor- nia just as she previously had focused on the regional fare of Florida when the Miami Herald was considered a statewide newspaper. Voltz’s impact persists, and her story is worth recognizing. To- day, Voltz’s recipe for Green Corn Tamales can be found on the Food Network website with a note giving credit to her acclaimed book, Barbecued Ribs, Smoked Butts, and Other Great Feeds.31 James Beard wrote of that book, “Jeanne Voltz has written a defini- tive book on barbecuing. She understands the varying tastes and the techniques of each region she covers and this is THE book on barbecue.” 32 Hers was one of the first books to establish barbecue as a valued cuisine. Her take on barbecue was likely because she was not burdened by the food hierarchy of culinary cuisine; she simply saw an untold story. Voltz once said, “The South has the kind of climate that grows certain things the way no other place in the country does. I’ve worked in Los Angeles and New York, but you can’t ever get away from grits and greens.” 33 She was as much an expert on food as other journalists proved their expertise of foreign policy or courtroom analysis. Furthermore, throughout the 1950s and 1960s at many newspapers, women’s pages were considered a parallel section to the sports pages.34 Just as more scholarship is di- rected toward sports reporting, more research should be dedicated to the historical content of women’s pages. Because little is known about how women typically became food journalists, a brief biographical sketch precedes the analysis of Voltz’s writing.

— Spring 2012 • 71 Life and Times of Jeanne Voltz Food journalist Jeanne Appleton (later Voltz) was born on her grandfather’s farm in Collinsville, Alabama, in 1921. There she witnessed the crops growing, the cows being milked, and the sau- sage being made. This proximity to the creation of food is to credit for her later perspective. She described her family as “experimental eaters,” introducing her to a range of dishes early in her life. She wrote that her grandmother, Emma Coker Appleton, “contributed mountains of fried chicken to community suppers.” 35 She noted that her mother, Marie Sewell Appleton, “had the nerve to let a curious child invade her kitchen;” and her father, James Lamar Appleton, gave her the gift of teaching a “child to taste.” 36 She recalled being a Girl Scout who worked alongside community women at pancake suppers.37 She went to school at the Alabama College for Women38 and studied political science and history, with plans to be a foreign cor- respondent. She graduated in 1942, a significant time for women, who were assuming jobs left vacant by men headed off to war. De- cades later, Voltz returned for a class reunion and noted that she had gone to school with an impressive group of women. In a letter to a friend, she wrote, “I think we came out of college with the first wave of the modern woman. She DOES something, rather than becomes Miss Scarlett, the trap all Southern women had up until that time.” 39

Early Journalism Career She began her career in journalism after college as a general assignment news reporter at the Mobile (AL) Press Register. It was a busy time in the port city with its growing shipyard and increasing population. The impact of war was always near. Years later she noted of World War II, “I lost so many friends. I did a lot of casualty stories.” 40 It was in Mobile that she developed a taste for fresh seafood, a palate that she would revisit. While in Mobile, she married newspaper editor Luther Voltz. They had two children, Jeanne and Luther Jr., and when the war ended, the family moved to Miami, where Luther Voltz had worked earlier and had been offered a job at the Miami Herald. The Florida city was growing fast after the war, due in part to the return of soldiers who had been exposed to the area during training at the Servicemen’s Pier. Jeanne Voltz initially

72 • American Journalism — planned to be a stay-at-home mother. Yet, after a minor health issue, her doctor said lifting and chasing her children would be too much.41 She joined her husband at the Herald instead. Jeanne Voltz first worked on the news side of the newspaper, helping run the city desk from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. She later moved to the women’s news section, a section that was a leader in the nation at the time and under the stewardship of Dorothy Jurney, the pre-eminent women’s page editor of the 1950s and 1960s.42 Jurney was known for stretching the definition of women’s news beyond weddings and the fours Fs.43 She added a mix of more progressive news about needs in the community, often aided by women’s club members. The women journalists Jurney mentored likewise ac- quired this trait. In 1952, Voltz became the Herald’s food editor, a job that offered better hours for a working mother. In a 1974 official history of the Miami Herald, Nixon Smiley wrote that Voltz attained the position because of her expertise as a gourmet cook.44 This account is fiction, debunked by Voltz years later in a newspaper interview. She was a hard-news journalist, not a gourmet cook. According to Voltz, editor Lee Hills called her into his office and told her to cover food. She replied that she did not know how. He told her to learn.45 As a result, she covered food the same way she covered other news. She looked for the local news angle, the significant news hook, and the value for her readers. She quickly began to study food, especially food of the South, which would become her specialty. Voltz called it a pivotal time to be in food journalism: “The 1950s were very interesting in food. Husbands came home from war. They’d tasted curry. They’d tasted French food. They were not meat and potatoes anymore.” 46 In the 1950s, the Miami newspaper had a large food section that ran each Thursday. The additional advertising income meant Voltz could take advantage of a significant travel budget to explore a range of regional dishes. She became a local celebrity, and soon her photo was featured alongside her articles.47 Jurney described Voltz as “A very good newspaper woman—food or otherwise.” 48 Miami Herald colleague Marjorie Paxson, who went on to become the fourth female publisher at Gannett, was a fan of the “marvel- ous” Voltz. “She had a very practical approach but at the same time she knew the food field and was very good.” 49 As a journalist and the mother of two children, Voltz initially played a supporting cooking role to her husband. She wrote, “In the fifties all husbands

— Spring 2012 • 73 barbecued, with wives as chief assistants and errand girls.” 50 Her role became more central, and she proclaimed, “a woman can barbecue as well as a man.” 51

Joining the Los Angeles Times After a decade of low pay at the Herald and with their children nearly grown, the couple left for the West Coast and the Los Ange- les Times in 1960. The couple’s move to the West Coast coincided with the Los Angeles Times’ more serious treatment of food news. The position of food editor was moved out of the advertising department and into the newsroom, an expectation of Voltz if she was to work in the section.52 Her impact was quickly felt at the newspaper, putting “the food section on its feet,” as a colleague at the paper reflected.53 The Times announced the arrival of its new food editor with a newspaper article and photo.54 At times, she wrote under the pseudonym “Marian Manners,” which had been established years earlier, although it was eventually replaced by Voltz’s byline.55 This change was significant; food content was no longer treated as women’s fare and was held up to journalistic scrutiny, though in an article celebrating the Times’ 80th anniversary, publisher Otis Chandler wrote that Voltz had been hired to focus on the selection, preparation, and serving of food and beverages, rather than reporting on food as a news beat.56 A review of her section’s content, however, clearly demonstrates Voltz’s commitment to covering food as news. She routinely reported on the numerous food industry studies coming out of the University of California, Los Angeles, and the University of Southern California. She also helped her readers discover the growth of ethnic food restaurants in Los Angeles at a pivotal time in California food history.57 Along the way, she never forgot that her readers looked to her for cooking advice; after all, recipes required exact instructions and readers were quick to write her if there was a problem with a dish. Voltz struck up a partnership with her local audience and, as her work was syndicated across the country, she reached thousands of additional readers. In food journalism, Voltz found her niche. She won six Vesta Awards, the top recognition for best newspaper food editing and writing. When she won, the newspaper trumpeted her accomplish- ments with an article and photo.58 In 1970, Voltz studied food, wine, and civilization at UCLA. She won two Tastemaker Awards, which recognized the best regional cookbooks, in 1970 and 1978. Before long, her work was earning national attention.

74 • American Journalism — The Post-Times’ Years In 1973, Voltz became food editor of Woman’s Day magazine in New York, where she remained until 1986. She initially rejected the job offer from the magazine because she feared the close re- lationship the editorial side would have with advertisers. But the promise of more than a million readers lured her to take the job. Fellow magazine food editor Jean Anderson noted that it was unusual for a newspaper food editor to make the transition to the New York magazine community, and thus Voltz was highly regarded. “We were shocked that she was brought in with no magazine expe- rience,” Anderson said.59 While in New York, Voltz was a founding member of the local chapter of Les Dames d’Escoffier, a professional organization for women in food-related careers, the first of its kind.60 Voltz entertained in her West Side Manhattan apartment, cooking for the likes of Beard, as well as author Harper Lee.61 In 1983, Voltz stepped down as food editor but stayed at Wom- an’s Day another three years. She divorced Luther Voltz, although theirs was an amicable parting. In a cookbook, Voltz noted that the couples’ first and last meal together was barbecue ribs in a garden in Florida. In the same book, published after the divorce, Voltz included Luther’s recipe for barbecue sauce.62 In the mid-1980s, Voltz became reacquainted with Frank MacKnight, a friend from her youth. When they married in 1988, they received a large barbecue grill as a wedding present.63 She moved to North Carolina and became active in the Society for the Preservation of Southern Food. She was also a member of the Soci- ety of Woman Geographers, along with her friend and Everglades pioneer Marjory Stoneman Douglas and Miami journalist Helen Muir. Voltz’s application for the organization listed her specializa- tion as “food anthropology.” She continued to write cookbooks, eventually writing a total of ten. Her final book, published in 1999, was The Country Ham Book, and she remained a popular judge of barbecue contests.64 She died in 2002 at age 81. Upon her death, the Los Angeles Times described her as a “pioneering newspaper food editor.” 65

Outline of Culinary Scholarship This scholarship looks at the food section of the Los Angeles Times in the 1960s and early 1970s: Voltz’s tenure. Voltz’s arrival in Los Angeles was opportune. The food industry was undergoing

— Spring 2012 • 75 significant changes related to governmental scrutiny and regula- tion, alongside changes in the roles of women in society. A review of articles in the decade of the 1960s revealed numerous topics and trends told through food. It demonstrates how food interacted with a growing city and a developing society. Voltz, as the food editor, guided the newspaper’s coverage of this change. In addition to issues of the Los Angeles Times, information about Voltz came from the papers of the Society of Women Geog- raphers,66 the papers of Miami journalist Helen Muir,67 oral histories of her colleagues Dorothy Jurney and Marjorie Paxson,68 and interviews Voltz conducted with journalists. Her cookbooks were also examined to understand her approach to food journalism. To clarify specific details, an interview was conducted with her daughter, also named Jeanne Voltz. Studying food journalism in the 1960s allows for a better understanding of culinary history, changing gender roles, and women in newspapers. It also allows for a better understanding of community. As food editor Kathleen Purvis, who knew Voltz, noted, “Food writing touches people’s lives, traditions, and memories.” 69 Voltz wrote, “Community kitchens provide settings where rich culinary traditions and the hopes of new lives in America are shared.” 70 It is a way of exploring social history. A review of the Los Angeles Times food section from 1960 to 1972 revealed the themes of ethnic cuisine, nutrition, social issues, and food safety.

America’s Developing Cuisine Food sections served an important purpose as the country’s appetite was changing—city by city. “Tasting around the country turns up, in Vermont, chicken pies as rich and creamy as Grand- ma’s; in Maine, fish chowders and baked beans prepared, as they were in Colonial times; in Massachusetts fishing villages, soup brewed to the rule of Portuguese settlers,” Voltz wrote.71 The food section normalized otherwise exotic dishes, chronicled the growth of restaurants, and noted the increasing trend of eating out. The dishes described corresponded to the demographics of Los Ange- les Times readers as opposed to dishes featured in national food- related magazines. In the early 1960s, Voltz reviewed various area restaurants. Many of these restaurants specialized in food from different areas of the world, albeit “Americanized” versions. For example, in Feb- ruary 1961, Voltz wrote, “A jaunt through Chinatown, then dinner

76 • American Journalism — at Gen. Lee Man Jen Low is a low-cost, if short, substitute for a trip to faraway lands.” 72 The local analysis made foreign food sound less intimidating. Later that month, Voltz wrote, “Don’t let the name Andre’s of Beverly Hills mislead you. Andre’s food and Chianti bottle décor is more Italian than French.” 73 In April, she featured another European-themed restaurant, writing, “Diners who ap- preciate the warm spice of Spanish food will find it at Casa Ma- drid on La Cienega.” 74 In July, she took on a new culture, writing, “The nice, deftly seasoned foods of Old Russia are specialties of the Moskva Cliff on Ventura Blvd. in Studio City.” 75 These articles described the range of available food more than offering a critical review of its quality, although Voltz eventually was more analytical in her writing. By the early 1970s, Voltz’s reporting aided in the transition as new, exotic kinds of food were becoming part of the American diet. “Traditionally foods with ties to an ethnic past have been important in regional food customs, especially for family,” she observed.76 She introduced her readers to Chinese cooking,77 and a year later, she authored a cookbook devoted to California cooking. “Where else but in California will you find your Japanese neighbors barbecuing shish kebab to go with their avocado salad, and the Danes up the road serving enchiladas and chiles rellenos, all washed down with California wine,” she marveled.78 Voltz’s repertoire included a vari- ety of ethnic dishes. She responded to a reader’s request for an Ital- ian pickling recipe in 1970.79 In 1971, she recommended an Easter meal of Mexican-inspired punch, tacos, and enchiladas.80 In a 1973 story, she described Italian desserts, writing: “Zuppa Inglese is a delectable paradox. The literal translation from Italian is English soup, but actually it is one of the world’s most splendid desserts. Sponge cake is cut into layers; then with a fine Italian hand, it’s filled with liqueur-flavored custard and berry jam.” 81 Voltz also combined traditional storytelling techniques with the basic elements of a recipe. She wrote about a European dessert, kugelhupf, beginning with a short history of the cake pan: “The kugelhupf pan, often called a ‘Turk’s head,’ reputedly was invented in 1683 after the Turks were defeated at the gates of Vienna. The battle is buried in history books, but the cake endures.” 82 When she addressed Indian cooking, she wrote: “Great Britain’s almost 200 years of domination in India opened a flavor gateway for the world’s gastronomes. Without the British military and trade missions in the East, curry powder and the aromatic heat of Indian cuisine might still be unknown to the West.” 83 In another story on the topic she

— Spring 2012 • 77 wrote about a meatball recipe that she described as “adventure- some.” She noted, “The exotic fragrance of curry seasonings cre- ates excitement in the most ordinary foods.” 84 Voltz educated her readers on sushi: “In Los Angeles they are called hors d’oeuvre or snacks. In Madrid they are tapas. Muscovites call them zakuski. In Japan they are sushi. Sushi is a savory tidbit of cold vinegared rice pressed or molded into any of several shapes and finished with tiny pieces of seafood or fish.” 85 The most common ethnic style of cooking Voltz wrote about in the 1960s was Mexican food. Voltz wrote, “The conversion of a Middle Westerner or Easterner to California cookery usually is complete when tostada, tamale, taco, tortilla, and taquito become part of the household kitchen vernacular.” 86 In one story, she described a Mexican-themed party buffet at the pool.87 In another article, Voltz wrote that her readers were requesting recipes for enchiladas, explaining that, “Mexican cuisine in general is low cost, since meat is used sparingly, with beans and corn and cheese sup- plying much of the protein.” 88 Other stories ranged from the simple tamale89 to the more exotic dessert almendrado—described as a tri- colored, cold foamy egg-white pudding.90 Voltz encouraged her readers to experiment by adding unusual ingredients to typical recipes. One story lauded what she described as a “luxury” vegetable. “Fresh spring asparagus is cause for cele bration by epicures,” she wrote.91 She also encouraged cooks to explore new ways to cook standard-fare chicken. “The ubiquitous broiler-fryer is so standard on everyday menus that hosts and host- esses often are inclined to avoid chicken when planning menus for entertaining,” she wrote. “Yet artfully cooked, seasoned, sauced, and garnished chicken can be epicurean fare indeed.” 92 In another story she praised the use of nuts as a source of extra protein in recipes—“Nuts are an ancient food”—and noted that nuts were mentioned more than 70 times in the Old Testament and still are produced in the Holy Lands and other parts of the Middle East.93 Voltz even spiced up traditional American foods, suggesting cooks use blue cheese rather than cheddar to accompany apple pie.94

Eating Healthy The Food and Drug Administration was active in the 1960s and 1970s as more research on nutrition was done and the interest in consumer issues grew. Most noticeable was the 1969 White House Conference on Food, Nutrition, and Health, which would

78 • American Journalism — change the course of food policy in the country. According to a government report based on the meeting, “Several landmark policy efforts with profound and lasting effects emerged from this conference, including expansions of the food stamp program, food labeling, and the school lunch program.” 95 Nearly 20 years after that meeting, Milwaukee Journal food editor Peggy Daum emphasized the continued significance of that summit: “It has been referred to as the Vatican II of the food world.” 96 Voltz covered that White House meeting and reported the need to address malnutrition due to poverty.97 The work of the federal agency, along with the food research being conducted at Los Angeles universities, meant that the content of Voltz’s section went well beyond including recipes. In several stories, Voltz covered the FDA as it readied for the first guidelines on nutrition for processed foods in 1971.98 A few years later she covered the FDA-required nutrition labeling guidelines. She covered the various meetings with consumer advocates, scientists, and food industry representatives over what the requirements should be. For one story, she traveled to Houston to a meeting of food editors. At the meeting, an FDA official addressed the group, describing the new Recommended Daily Allowance guidelines that replaced the 1941 Minimum Daily Requirement.99 She described the new policy as “a mixed blessing–or at least brought mixed responses.” 100 In 1972, Voltz wrote about a California law that would require enrichment in grains to improve nutritional value. About two- thirds of the states already had similar laws and California was de- bating possible legislation. She quoted a home economist who had lobbied for passage of the bill: “Since so many people use highly processed foods without really knowing what they contain, this can be important in improving total nutrition.” 101 For the story, Voltz also conducted an investigation of the foods in the local grocery store, looking for what was printed on the labels and reporting the results. This was the kind of reporting that Senator Moss had called for earlier. In an article the following year, Voltz questioned the overconsumption of sugar in Americans’ diets. She researched the problem by examining the ingredients list on different packaged foods, noting that sugar was often a hidden ingredient.102 For another story, she interviewed a nutrition expert from the American Medical As- sociation. He said malnutrition was a result of poor eating habits rather than a poor food supply. He also credited newspapers with providing information on proper nutrition.103 With an emphasis on

— Spring 2012 • 79 nutrition, Voltz wrote about how to prepare vegetables in order to maintain the most nutrients: “The ‘new’ cooking, largely a return to Grandma’s fundamentals, glorifies fresh vegetables. Young folk proudly proclaim they never use a frozen or canned vegetable.” 104 In another article, she described nutritional and financial value of a particular vegetable: “Cabbage is that budget-pampering wonder, always available at a very low, low price and one of nature’s most nutritious gifts to man.” 105

Food Intersects with Life In addition to articles about types of food and food policies, Voltz’s section also included people in the food industry and issues related to food. Taking a typical approach to news, she focused on timeliness, proximity, conflict, and human interest. She spoke with food experts when they visited her city and explored their expertise. She also documented culinary trends such as the development of convenience foods and the conflict over their nutritional value. Lastly, she viewed food in a broader context, as she outlined the problem of hunger in the United States. In 1963, Voltz profiled Helen Corbit, the director of the restaurant in the Dallas-based Neiman-Marcus department store while the Texan was on vacation in Los Angeles. Corbit freely shared her views on food and gender and proclaimed there was a myth that men were meat-and-potato eaters whereas women preferred chicken and salads. She said that in her restaurant, men were just as likely to order fruit salads and soufflés, while women ordered steak and hamburgers. During her vacation, Corbit also expressed disappointment in Los Angeles restaurants. Not afraid to include a critique of her community, Voltz offered up Corbit’s rebuke in the story: “I think with the wealth of fresh fruit and vegetables, there is very little imagination here.” 106 Voltz used a story about a wine and food taster to critique the food industry overall. She began by describing the 72-year career of William Titon, the legendary Macy’s department store food-taster. “Tasting has become almost a quaint custom by today’s merchan- dising standards,” she wrote.107 She argued that the food industry was largely based on packaging and advertising schedules rather than focusing on whether the food tasted good or was nutritious: “The major bastion of honest-to-goodness tasting is food manufac- turing plants.” 108 Women’s roles are often connected to the preparation of food,

80 • American Journalism — with the expectation that cooking was not cooking unless from scratch. Voltz did not feel beholden to this requisite in her newspaper section, seeking a balance between the sophisticated and the simple. She received inspiration from friend and culinary legend James Beard, quoting him, “If we want to do it from scratch, we can. If we want to serve convenience foods that take little time, we can go that way.” 109 Voltz would provide recipes for those opposed to cooking with shortcuts for meals such as baked polenta, veal cor- don bleu, and cream puffs. In another issue, she would include recipes for women who were too busy to cook from scratch, or quick recipes intended for the “busy mother or volunteer worker who has scant time for the kitchen” 110 that could still perk up a menu. On the other hand, Voltz also wrote about a growing rebellion against the convenience-food explosion. The potential decline of women’s home-cooked meals threatened tradition. Grocery stores were full of more than 4,600 short-cut foods.111 Voltz described the kind of cooks who years later might embrace Martha Stewart for her “scratch-made” meals. In a change from previous stories, several of the women used as role models were not described as homemakers. For example, Voltz wrote: “A young career girl bakes and serves tortes that outdo the efforts of a professional pastry chef. Another career girl fries chicken from scratch—just as her grandmother did.” 112 In 1972, Voltz wrote about the problem of hunger in America. Her story followed up a federal study that identified places where malnutrition occurred in the nation. She began by quoting a senator who noted there was talk about hunger but no action was being taken. “California’s unwritten nutrition policy is at a cross- roads,” she declared. At risk were children who were hungry by noon, and pregnant women who could not afford to eat properly.113 Voltz reported a meeting in Mexico City of the International Con- gress of Nutrition. In examining the problem of malnutrition, she interviewed a professor who pointed out the common misconcep- tion that, “The poor generally select foods more wisely than the affluent.” 114 Also that year, Voltz wrote about proposed legislation that would have required healthier school lunches, one of the most progressive laws in the country at the time. The bill ultimately passed so that students would have hot lunches. The story examined food as an educational issue, noting that students would be better able to learn if they were well-fed, a novel idea.115 In another article that month, Voltz examined the food needs on the nearby Havasupai

— Spring 2012 • 81 Indian Reservation. Voltz began with the story of Gene George, a coordinator with the Food Advocates, who rode on horseback to the reservation to explain the details of the food-stamp programs and the problem of hunger in the community.116 As a potential solution to the hunger issue, Voltz published stories suggesting ways to prepare a nutritious meal on a budget. The country was experiencing a recession in the 1970s, and there was an emphasis on women taking extra care while shopping at the grocery store. Voltz wrote about the ease of preparation and economic value of meatballs. “For only a few cents a serving, you can offer an epicurean treat,” she wrote.117 Other stories also noted how cooks could save money when shopping for groceries.

Regulating the Food Industry As consumer news increased in the late 1960s and early 1970s, food-industry safety became a regular topic in Voltz’s section. In California, the Department of Consumer Affairs was created in 1970, and although it exists today as an agency to regulate professional services, in its original form it included oversight of food. Voltz highlighted this need for consumer protection in a story about the agency and quoted its original director, Leighton Hatch: “The consumer has the right to know that the goods he purchases are safe for himself. You may think of tires as being safe, but this applies to food, too.” 118 Voltz’s numerous food safety stories throughout the early 1970s included an article focusing on a food scientist who described the average home kitchen as a “food poisoning time bomb” and warned of the dangerous organisms lurking in kitchens.119 In another story on food safety, she addressed problems of contamination in the poultry industry. It was in response to what she had learned at a recently attended conference of the Western Food Processing Indus- try. It was determined that the current attitude was of “consumer concern,” not “consumer panic.” 120 In another story, the president of the Institute of Food Technology, speaking at a related conference, announced the need for consumer education about food. He noted that most reactions to safety issues were emotional rather than reasoned responses to scientific problems. He expressed his belief that a lack of food knowledge was based on how children were educated, and he blamed the ignorance on restrictive gender distinctions: “Half our population—the men—are taught no nutrition at all, since most of it is taught to girls in home economics.” 121

82 • American Journalism — Voltz’s work preceded the current organic food revolution by a few decades, although she made several references to organic food in the early 1970s, particularly in relation to food safety. Voltz ad- vised that food consumers demand organic foods at their super- markets for better value and safety.122 Later in the story, she posed a question that remains a conundrum within the food industry—how is “organic” defined? “What is organic, organically shipped or organically grown food,” she asked.123 There were no clear guidelines at the time, and they remained ambiguous until the passage of the Organic Foods Production Act of 1990. She questioned again the meaning of the term “organic,” this time in a story about grocers facing off with angry customers.124 The shoppers accused the busi- nesses of having poor-quality foods and not weighing food accu- rately. At the meeting, the grocers sought to open communication with consumers, who in turn wanted the media to take the topic of food safety seriously.125 Voltz also covered the results of a three-year study about the health-food movement and organic food. Central to the research was the question about the sociological aspects of the movement. The researcher found tensions between the first-wave health-food advocates and “hippies.” The growth of the countercul- ture community in Berkeley clearly had an impact on food in the state. Voltz noted that, decades earlier, the increase of health food stores was a reaction against the massive US food industry. Experts believed the trend of health food would continue in the future.126 Voltz capitalized on the wave and wrote a cookbook about natural foods. In the introduction, she wrote of the trend, “The home cook who bakes good honest bread, makes a fragrant soup or stew from scratch or prepares her own homemade pie is regarded as the culinary genius of the 1970s.” 127 Voltz’s expertise in the growing health-food movement was a significant one at the time.128 The power of the consumer and the power of motherhood made for a strong combination in food coverage. Voltz covered a panel in Las Vegas in which homemakers with children critiqued their ex- periences with the food industry in front of 70 food scientists. The mothers accused the food industry of providing consumers with puffery about products rather than information about nutrition. The women, who included a black mother at a time when minorities were often excluded from newspaper coverage, also questioned the rising costs of food and the high level of fat. They requested more nutritional information, especially ingredients of snack foods their children craved.129

— Spring 2012 • 83 Conclusion In 2009, publisher ABC-CLIO began collecting names for a book based on the icons of American cooking. While Jeanne Voltz was under consideration, she was not selected. Her marginalization in culinary history parallels the lack of recognition of women food editors in journalism history, which more often celebrates women reporters who generate “hard news,” such as war correspondents. When specialized reporting is studied, it is usually a matter of politics, business, or sports; the four Fs of the women’s pages are largely forgotten. If food sections are to be written into journalism history, the work of Voltz is an opportune place to start. “She’s an extraordi- nary person,” said Terry Ford, a food editor and charter member of Julia Child’s American Institute of Food and Wine. “Her career goes bicoastal. Her impact and her knowledge are vast. She is very gifted, very crafted. When you read something Jeanne Voltz writes, you can say it was 100 percent thoroughly researched.” 130 Other food journalists whose careers merit study include Jane Nickerson of the New York Times, Ruth Ellen Church of the Chicago Tribune, and Cecily Brownstone of the Associated Press, to name a few. More attention should be paid to the content of food sections and the careers of food editors. In a recent example of their continued marginalization, consider the Associated Press Stylebook, the annually updated “Journalist’s Bible” of style, grammar, newswrit- ing, and usage.131 The 2011 edition includes a section devoted to food. According to an AP press release, the impetus for the addition was the media’s newfound interest in food,132 yet, as this article has demonstrated, food journalism has long been a fixture among the media. For too long, women’s pages have been looked at by many scholars as sections that did little more than reinforce women’s traditional role. This was once how the field of home economics was viewed, too. “Until recently women’s historians largely dismissed home economics as little more than a conspiracy to keep women in the kitchen,” wrote one scholar.133 However, historians have re- evaluated the field and in doing so, raised its status.134 It is time to do the same for food sections and the women journalists who toiled in obscurity to produce them. These sections gave women a voice and an opportunity to develop expertise. Studying their contributions serves to establish those voices as a valuable part of American mass media history.

84 • American Journalism — Endnotes

1 Jeanne Voltz, Application for the Society of Woman Geographers, Au- gust 31, 1981. Records of the Society of Woman Geographers, box II, folder 9, Manuscript Collection, Library of Congress. 2 Terry Ford, a charter member of Julia Child’s American Institute of Food and Wine, said this about Jeanne Voltz. Kathleen Purvis, “Words to Eat By,” Charlotte Observer, February 18, 1998. 3 Jeanne Voltz, An Apple a Day (New York: Irena Chalmers Cookbooks, 1983), 6. 4 Maurine Beasley and Sheila Gibbons, eds., Taking Their Place: A Docu- mentary History of Women and Journalism, (Washington, DC: The Amer- ican University Press, 1993). 5 For example, the Evansville Indiana Courier women’s page editor Ann Hamman had a master’s degree in home economics from Purdue University. 6 Janet Theophano, Eat My Words: Reading Women’s Lives Through the Cookbooks They Wrote (New York: Palgrave MacMillian, 2003), 3; Anna Bower, “Romanced by Cookbooks,” Gastronomica: The Journal of Food and Culture 4, no. 2 (2004): 35–42; William Alex McIntosh and Mary Zey, “Women as Gatekeepers of Food Consumption,” Food and Foodways 3, no. 4 (1989): 319–321. 7 Richard Karp, “Newspaper Food Pages: Credibility for Sale,” Columbia Journalism Review, November/December 1971, 36–44. 8 David Kamp, The United States of Arugula: How We Became a Gourmet Nation (New York: Broadway Books, 2006), 10. 9 One of Voltz’s best-known recipes was for the Florida version of key lime pie. Jeanne Voltz and Caroline Stuart, Florida Cookbook: From Gulf Coast Gumbo to Key Lime Pie (New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 1993), 165–66. 10 Garrett D. Byrnes, Fashion in Newspapers (New York: American Fash- ion Institute by Columbia University Press, 1951), 1. 11 Kimberly Wilmot Voss, “Vivian Castleberry: A Case Study of How a Women’s Page Editor Lived and Translated the News of a Social Move- ment,” Southwest Historical Quarterly, Spring 2007, 514–532; Kimberly Wilmot Voss and Lance Speere, “A Women’s Page Pioneer: Marie An- derson and Her Influence at the Miami Herald and Beyond,” Florida His- torical Quarterly, Spring 2007, 398–421; Kimberly Wilmot Voss, “For- gotten Feminist: Women’s Page Editor Maggie Savoy and the Growth of Women’s Liberation Awareness in Los Angeles,” California History, Spring 2009, 48–64; Kimberly Wilmot Voss, “Dorothy Jurney: The ‘God- mother’ of Women’s Page Editors,” Journalism History 36, no. 1 (Spring 2010): 13–22; Kimberly Wilmot Voss, “Anne Rowe Goldman: Refashion- ing Women’s News in St. Petersburg, Florida,” FCH Annals: Journal of the Florida Conference of Historians, March 2011, 104–111. 12 Dorothy Jurney, interview by Anne S. Kasper, January 16, 1990,

— Spring 2012 • 85 “Women in Journalism,” Washington Press Club Foundation Oral History Project, http://beta.wpcf.org/oralhistory/jurn1.html. 13 “The Press: The Kitchen Department,” Time, October 19, 1953, http:// www.time.com/time/magazine/article/0,9171,823077,00.html. 14 Ray Irwin, “Newspapers Find Food Profitable News Subject,” Editor & Publisher, July 15, 1950. 15 Kamp, The United States of Arugula, 57. 16 “Journal Wins Award at Food Conference,” Milwaukee Journal, Sep- tember 28, 1969. 17 In this position, Emilie Hall was responsible for developing journalistic material for the extension, teaching, and research for home economics audiences. http://www.ecommons.cornell.edu/bitstream/1813/17970/2/ Hall_Emilie_Towner_1981.pdf. 18 “Vesta Award to Journal Food Writer,” Milwaukee Journal, September 24, 1965. 19 Peggy Daum, “Editors Criticized by Senator, Feminist,” Milwaukee Journal, October 8, 1971. 20 Jack Anderson, “Moss to Probe Newsmen,” Tuscaloosa (Alabama) News, January 9, 1972. 21 Richard Karp, “Newspaper Food Pages: Credibility for Sale,” Columbia Journalism Review, November/December 1971, 36. 22 Ibid., 41. 23 Ann Hamman, letter to the editor, Columbia Journalism Review, May/ June 1972, 61. 24 Interview with Jeanne Voltz (daughter), July 18, 2008. 25 Jeanne Voltz to Helen Muir, 20 July 1986, Papers of Helen Muir, Special Collections, University of Miami, box 13, folder 173. 26 Molly O’Neill, “Food Porn,” Columbia Journalism Review, September/ October 2003, 38. 27 Doug Brown, “Haute Cuisine,” American Journalism Review, February/ March 2004, 50. 28 Kelly Alexander and Cynthia Harris, Hometown Appetites: The Story of Clementine Paddleford, the Forgotten Food Writer Who Chronicled How America Ate (New York: Gotham Press, 2008). 29 Kelly Alexander, “Hometown Appetites,” Saveur, November 19, 2007, http://www.saveur.com/article/Kitchen/Hometown-Appetites/1. 30 Mary Margaret McBride, Mary Margaret McBride’s Harvest of Ameri- can Cooking (New York: G. Putnam’s Sons, 1956). See also, Susan Ware, It’s One O’Clock and Here Is Mary Margaret McBride (New York: New York University Press, 2005). 31 Jeanne Voltz, Barbecued Ribs, Smoked Butts and Other Great Feeds (New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 1996). 32 Ibid. 33 “Jeanne Voltz, 81; Past Editor of the Times’ Food Section,” Los Angeles Times, January 16, 2002. 34 In one example, at the Milwaukee Journal, the sports editor and the

86 • American Journalism — women’s page editor joined together to demand to be paid as much as the news editors. Robert W. Wells, The Milwaukee Journal: An Informational Chronicle of its First 100 Years (Milwaukee, WI: Milwaukee Journal, 1981). 35 Jeanne Voltz, Community Suppers and Other Glorious Repasts (New York: Charles Scribner’s Sons, 1988), dedication. 36 Jeanne Voltz, The Flavor of the South (New York: Random House, 1977), dedication. 37 Jeanne Voltz, Community Suppers and Other Glorious Repasts (New York: Charles Scribner’s Sons, 1988), 24. 38 The college later became the University of Montevallo. 39 Jeanne Voltz to Helen Muir, 18 February 1982, Papers of Helen Muir, Special Collections, University of Miami, box 13, folder 174. 40 Kathleen Purvis, “Words to Eat By,” Charlotte Observer, February 18, 1998. 41 Ibid. 42 In 1950, Miami Herald Editor Lee Hills called longtime women’s page journalist Dorothy Jurney and asked her a question: “Could you take on the women’s editorship so that we could get something in the paper that is worth reading?” See Kimberly Wilmot Voss, “Dorothy Jurney: A National Advocate for Women’s Pages as They Evolved and Then Disappeared,” Journalism History 36, no. 1 (Spring 2010). 43 Dorothy Jurney, “Women in Journalism,” The Bulletin, American Soci- ety of Newspaper Editors, 1 January 1956, 5. 44 Nixon Smiley, Knights of the Fourth Estate: The Story of the Miami Herald (Miami: Banyan, 1984). 45 Kathleen Purvis, “Words to Eat By,” Charlotte Observer, February 18, 1998. 46 Ibid. 47 Jeanne Voltz, “Duet Dinners Are Easy to Prepare These Days with New Food Packaging,” Miami Herald, September 13, 1953. 48 Dorothy Jurney, Women in Journalism, Washington Press Club Foun- dation, January 16, 1990, Session 1, 39. http://www.wpcf.org/oralhistory/ ohhome.html. 49 Marjorie Paxson, Women in Journalism, Washington Press Club Foun- dation, January 16, 1991, Session 3, 58. http://www.wpcf.org/oralhistory/ ohhome.html. 50 Jeanne Voltz, Barbecuing Ribs, Smoked Butts and Other Great Feeds (New York: Knopf, 1990), x. 51 Ibid. 52 Kathleen Purvis, “Word to Eat By,” Charlotte Observer, February 18, 1998. 53 Barbara Hanson, “L.A. Times Food Gals,” Culinary Historians of Southern California, April 10, 2010. http://chscsite.org/food-section-gals/. 54 “Miami Writer New Times Food Editor,” Los Angeles Times, September 19, 1960.

— Spring 2012 • 87 55 Jenn Garbee, “Marian Manners, Prudence Penny, the First Celebrity Cooks,” Los Angeles Times, April 22, 2009. It was not unusual for food writers to adopt pen names. For example, longtime Chicago Tribune food editor Ruth Ellen Church wrote under the pen name “Mary Meade” for most of her career. See, Lloyd Wendt, Chicago Tribune: The Rise of a Great American Newspaper (Chicago: Rand McNally & Company, 1979), 725–726. 56 Otis Chandler, “An Octogenarian and Still More Growth Ahead,” Los Angeles Times, December 3, 1961. 57 Interview with Kathleen Purvis, June 24, 2010. 58 Associated Press, “The Times’ Jeanne Voltz Wins Vesta Food Award,” Los Angeles Times, September 29, 1966. 59 Interview with Jean Anderson, June 30, 2010. 60 Nancy Brussat Barocci, “Les Dames d’Escoffier International, History,” www.ldei.org/history.asp. Voltz was president of the organization from 1985 to 1987 and helped it expand. The organization continues today. 61 Kathleen Purvis, “Word to Eat By,” Charlotte Observer, February 18, 1998. 62 Jeanne Voltz, Barbecued Ribs, Smoked Butts, and Other Great Feeds (New York, Alfred A. Knopf: 1990), ix. 63 Ibid. 64 Interview with Kathleen Purvis, June 24, 2010. 65 “Jeanne Voltz, 81; Past Editor of the Times’ Food Section,” Los Angeles Times, January 16, 2002. 66 Jeanne Voltz Membership form, Records of the Society of Woman Ge- ographers, box II, folder 9, Manuscript Collection, Library of Congress. 67 Papers of Helen Muir, Special Collections, University of Miami. 68 Dorothy Jurney and Marjorie Paxson, Women in Journalism oral history project, Washington Press Club Foundation, http://www.wpcf.org /oralhistory/ohhome.html 69 Interview with Kathleen Purvis, June 24, 2010. 70 Jeanne Voltz, Community Suppers and Other Glorious Repasts, 1. 71 Ibid. 72 Jeanne Voltz, “Dining Out,” Los Angeles Times, February 5, 1961. 73 Jeanne Voltz, “Dining Out,” Los Angeles Times, February 12, 1961. 74 Jeanne Voltz, “Dining Out,” Los Angeles Times, April 30, 1961. 75 Jeanne Voltz, “Dining Out,” Los Angeles Times, July 2, 1961. 76 Barbara G. Shortridge, “Not Just Jello and Hot Dishes: Representative Foods of Minnesota,” Journal of Cultural Geography, Fall/Winter 2003, 79. 77 Jeanne Voltz, “Californians Bow to Chinese Cookery Californians Bow to Chinese Cuisine,” Los Angeles Times, June 26, 1969. 78 Jeanne Voltz, The California Cookbook (New York: The Bobbs-Merrill Company, Inc, 1970), xii. 79 Jeanne Voltz, “True Italian Recipes for Pickled Peppers,” Los Angeles Times, September 17, 1970. 80 Jeanne Voltz, “For Flavor, Add a Dash of Mexico,” Los Angeles Times, April 4, 1971.

88 • American Journalism — 81 Jeanne Voltz, “The Cream of Italian Desserts,” Los Angeles Times, March 25, 1973. 82 Jeanne Voltz, “Kugelhupf,” Los Angeles Times, January 7, 1973. 83 Jeanne Voltz, “You Can Thank Mad Dogs and Englishmen for Indian Curry,” Los Angeles Times, June 4, 1972. 84 Jeanne Voltz, “Roar of Approval for Curry, as Exotic as Sikhs and Sa- ris,” Los Angeles Times, January 28, 1973. 85 Jeanne Voltz, “Sushi a Great Snack from Japan,” Los Angeles Times, February 7, 1971. 86 Jeanne Voltz, “Lexicon with a Latin Accent for California Cooking,” Los Angeles Times, August 5, 1971. 87 Jeanne Voltz, “A Mexican Party Buffet by the Pool,” Los Angeles Times, April 27, 1969. 88 Jeanne Voltz, “Enchiladas: They’re Easy on the Budget and Hard to Resist,” Los Angeles Times, March 15, 1973. 89 Jeanne Voltz, “Tamales,” Los Angeles Times, June 1, 1972. 90 Jeanne Voltz, “Almendrado,” Los Angeles Times, January 24, 1971. 91 Jeanne Voltz, “Asparagus Tips for Epicurean Tastes,” Los Angeles Times, March 22, 1973. 92 Jeanne Voltz, “Chicken with a Twist,” Los Angeles Times, April 8, 1973. 93 Jeanne Voltz, “Nuts Star as the Extra that Glamorize the Ordinary,” Los Angeles Times, November 30, 1972. 94 Jeanne Voltz, “Spice Apple Pie with Blue Cheese,” Los Angeles Times, July 23, 1961. 95 “1969 Conference on Food, Nutrition, and Health,” National Nutrition Summit 2000, http://www.nns.nih.gov/1969/conference.htm. 96 Peggy Daum, “A Retrospective,” Milwaukee Journal, February 17, 1988. 97 Jeanne Voltz, “Malnutrition Detection Urged,” Los Angeles Times, Sep- tember 12, 1969. 98 Jeanne Voltz, “FDA Readying First Guidelines on Nutrition,” Los Ange- les Times, April 8, 1971. 99 Jeanne Voltz, “Labeling System Proposed by FDA,” Los Angeles Times, March 2, 1972. 100 Jeanne Voltz, “Cheers and Jeers for New Nutrient Labeling Regula- tions,” Los Angeles Times, January 25, 1973. 101 Jeanne Voltz, “Grain Enrichment Law—1970’s Gift to Californians,” Los Angeles Times, December 27, 1971. 102 Jeanne Voltz, “Are Americans Programmed to Overconsumption of Sugar,” Los Angeles Times, April 19, 1973. 103 Jeanne Voltz, “Malnutrition Blamed on Eating Habits,” Los Angeles Times, February 15, 1973. 104 Jeanne Voltz, “Little Water Goes a Long Way,” Los Angeles Times, Feb- ruary 15, 1973. 105 Jeanne Voltz, “For Gourmets on a Budget,” Los Angeles Times, January 30, 1972. 106 Jeanne Voltz, “Expert Hits Myths on Male Taste,” Los Angeles Times, February 6, 1963.

— Spring 2012 • 89 107 Jeanne Voltz, “A Vanishing Breed: The Food Taster,” Los Angeles Times, April 18, 1971. 108 Ibid. 109 Ibid. 110 Jeanne Voltz, “Quick! Quick! Quick!” Los Angeles Times, February 16, 1969. 111 Laura Shapiro, Something from the Oven: Reinventing Dinner in 1950s America, (New York: Viking, 2004), 44. 112 Jeanne Voltz, “The Rebellion Against Convenience,” Los Angeles Times, February 2, 1969. 113 Jeanne Voltz, “Hungry—A Lot of Talk About It, but What’s Being Done,” Los Angeles Times, September 28, 1972. 114 Jeanne Voltz, “Malnutrition in the City,” Los Angeles Times, September 7, 1972. 115 Jeanne Voltz, “Nutritionists Back School Lunch Bill,” Los Angeles Times, December 22, 1972. 116 Jeanne Voltz, “Overcoming Food Stamp Reservations,” Los Angeles Times, December 21, 1972. 117 Jeanne Voltz, “Round the World on a Meatball Budget,” Los Angeles Times, March 4, 1973. 118 Jeanne Voltz, “How to Protect Consumer,” Los Angeles Times, October 16, 1970. 119 Jeanne Voltz “Home Kitchen a Time Bomb?” Los Angeles Times, Oc- tober 6, 1971. 120 Jeanne Voltz, “Problems in Food Protection,” Los Angeles Times, March 23, 1972. 121 Jeanne Voltz, “Plan Announced for Food Safety Panel,” Los Angeles Times, November 19, 1971. 122 Jeanne Voltz “Markets Listening to Shoppers,” Los Angeles Times, Oc- tober 4, 1971. 123 Jeanne Voltz, “Standards on Organic Food Questioned, Los Angeles Times, November 11, 1971. 124 Jeanne Voltz, “Panel Bakes Grocers Over the Coals,” Los Angeles Times, June 29, 1972. 125 Ibid. 126 Jeanne Voltz, “Looking Into Health Food Movement,” Los Angeles Times, June 22, 1972. 127 Jeanne Voltz, Natural Foods Cookbook (New York, G. P. Putnam’s Sons: 1973), 7. 128 Sherrie A. Inness, Secret Ingredients: Race, Gender, and Class at the Dinner Table (New York: Palgrave MacMillan, 2006), 89, 101. 129 Jeanne Voltz, “Food Shopping Rapped by Housewives,” Los Angeles Times, November 4, 1971. 130 Kathleen Purvis, “Word to Eat By,” Charlotte Observer, February 18, 1998. 131 Dattell Christian, Sally Jacobsen and David Minthorn, eds., AP Style- book (New York: The Associated Press, 2011).

90 • American Journalism — 132 “Food is a Focus in 2011 AP Stylebook,” Associated Press, May 16, 2011. http://www.ap.org/pages/about/pressreleases/pr_051611a.html. 133 Sarah Stage, “Home Economics: What’s in a Name?,” in Rethinking Home Economics: Women and the History of a Profession, ed. Sarah Stage and Virginia B. Vincenti (Ithaca: Cornell University Press, 1997), 1. 134 See, for example, Carolyn M. Goldstein, Creating Consumers: Home Economists in Twentieth-Century America (Chapel Hill: University of North Carolina Press, 2012).

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