Ole G. Mouritsen SUSHI Food for the eye, the body & the soul
Graphic design and photography Jonas Drotner Mouritsen
Water colours Tove Nyberg
Translation and adaptation to English Mariela Johansen 4VTIJt'PPEGPSUIFFZF UIFCPEZUIFTPVM
Author Ole G. Mouritsen
Graphic design and photography Jonas Drotner Mouritsen
Water colours Tove Nyberg
Translation and adaptation to English Mariela Johansen
ISBN: ---- e-ISBN: ----
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ttt S – Z , , Sushi and Zen What is sushi? t L, Ee molecules of life Sensory perception t “S ” ‘Ee fruit of the sea’: fish and shellfish ‘Plants from the sea’ Soybeans: tofu, shōyu, and miso Rice, rice wine, and rice vinegar Spices in Japanese cuisine t S 'JTIBOETIFMMmTI Tsukemono – the art of pickling t T, Tools for making sushi Preparation of sushi Arrangement and presentation t S Mainstream sushi Sushi with a difference t T Side dishes and main courses Soups and salads Small desserts with green tea t A How does one eat sushi? Cha – Japanese tea t E t T (MPTTBSZPG+BQBOFTFXPSETTDJFOUJmDUFSNJOPMPHZ Bibliography llustration credits Index $o Myer Bloom for first introducing me to the world of sushi &
to sushi chefs around the world whose art, craft, and aesthetic sense keep me spellboun% vii
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1SFGBDFtYJJ i "CPVUUIFCPPLBOEIPXUPSFBEJUtYW i _ “Irrasshai!” tYWJJ i Sushi – Zen , passion, science & wellness S Z "DPOGFTTJPOt Ee haiku NPNFOUt ͳFTDJFODFCFIJOEUIFQBTTJPOt Democracy in the TVTIJCBSt 8BCJTBCJt 4VTIJBOEXFMMOFTToBMPOHBOEIFBMUIZMJGFtï W "CJUPGTVTIJIJTUPSZtï Sushi is vinegared rice with something on top ( tane ) or inside ( gu tï ͳF/PSEJDBOTXFSUPTVTIJtð 4VTIJWBSJBUJPOTtð Life, food & molecules T $FMMTBOENPMFDVMFTtð 4BDDIBSJEFT DBSCPIZESBUFT tð "NJOPBDJETBOEQSPUFJOTtð 'BUTBOEPJMTtñ 4BUVSBUFEBOEVOTBUVSBUFEGBUTtñ Nucleotides, BOEHFOFTtñ _ $IPMFTUFSPMBOEFWPMVUJPOtñ S )PXEPFTGPPEUBTUF tò Umami – UIFmGUIUBTUFtò 5BTUFtò ͳFCJPDIFNJTUSZPGUBTUFtò 4NFMMtò .PVUIGFFMtò “Something from the sea & something from the mountains” ‘T ’: 'JTI TIFMMmTI BOEFDIJOPEFSNTtó 8IZBSFmTINVTDMFTTPGU tó .VTDMFTtó 4MPXBOEGBTUNVTDMFTtó Why are some mTINVTDMFTXIJUF tó 4BMNPOIBTBSFEQJHNFOUJOJUTNVTDMFTtó 'JTIEPOPUTNFMMmTIZtó )PXEPmTIUBTUF tô 0TNPTJTtô
"EFUBJMFEFYQMBOBUJPOt _ A narrative detour viii
'JTIBOETIFMMmTIBSFOVUSJUJPVTGPPEtô Check the and DPOUFOUPGZPVSmTIPJMtô 0JMZBOEMFBOmTItô ͳFCFTUQBSUPGUIFmTItô 'JTIXJUICPOFTtô 'BUDPOUFOUPGmTIBOETIFMMmTItô 'JTISPFtô _ 5TVLJKJomTIPOBOFQJDTDBMFtõ ͳFUFYUVSFPGDSVTUBDFBOTtõ )PXEPDSVTUBDFBOTUBTUF tõ ͳFUFYUVSFPGNPMMVTDTtõ )PXEPNPMMVTDTUBTUF tõ ͳFTFBVSDIJOoBOFDIJOPEFSNtõ "RVBDVMUVSFPGmTIBOETIFMMmTItõ &OWJSPONFOUBMUPYJOTJOmTItö 1BSBTJUFTJOmTItö _ *TJUEBOHFSPVTUPFBUmTI tö ‘P S’ "MHBFBOETFBXFFEtö ͳFUBTUFPGIFBMUIZTFBXFFEtö Nori – thin sheets of seaweed for making maki [VTIJtö An abundance of nori UIBOLTUPAͳF.PUIFSPGUIF4FBt÷ S: , , Proteins and GBUTJOTPZCFBOTt÷ 5PGVt÷ Shōyu TPZTBVDF t÷ .JTPt÷ Japanese soy sauce – TIǠZVt÷ R, , 8IBUJTSJDFNBEFVQPG t÷ 3JDFDPPLJOHt÷ 3JDFGPSTVTIJtïî Sake oSJDFXJOF BTBDSFEESJOLtïî Shōchū oTUSPOHTUVĉtïî Mirin oTXFFUSJDFXJOFtïî Su – tart SJDFWJOFHBStïî S J +BQBOFTFTQJDFTtïî Wasabi o+BQBOFTFIPSTFSBEJTItïî Shiso oQFSJMMBtïï Shiso BMTPLJMMTCBDUFSJBtïï Sesame seeds ( goma tïï Furikake o+BQBOFTFATQJDZUPQQJOHtïï _ ͳFCSBJOOFFETGBUTtïï Storage & conservation 'ęģĘđĞĔģĘĕĜĜĖęģĘ ˪˫ 1FSJTIBCJMJUZtïð ix
'SFF[JOHPGmTIBOETIFMMmTItïð 4BMUJOHBOENBSJOBUJOHPGmTItïð 'FSNFOUBUJPOPGmTItïð )FBUJOHPGmTIBOETIFMMmTItïð 8IZEPDPPLFEDSVTUBDFBOTUVSOSFE tïð T – ͳF+BQBOFTFXBZPGQJDLMJOHtïð Pickled ginger ( gari tïñ Pickled radishes ( takuan-zuke tïñ 1JDLMFEDVDVNCFSTBOEFHHQMBOUTtïñ Salted red and green shiso MFBWFTtïñ Pickled Japanese apricots or plums ( umeboshi tïñ Tools, preparation & presentation T Old and new makes for good XBCJTBCJtïòï Knives ( hōchō tïò Rice cooker ( suihanki tïò Cutting board ( manaita tïò Wooden tub and wooden paddle ( hangiri and shamoji tïò Bamboo rolling mat ( makisu tïò A damp, clean cloth (fukin tïò Bamboo sieve ( zaru tïò Tweezers ( hone nuki tïò Grater ( oroshi-gane tïò Bamboo skewers ( kushi tïò Mold for oshi -zushi ( oshibako tïò 4FTBNFNJMMtïò Omelette pan ( tamago-yaki-nabe tïò _ )PXEPFTPOFCFDPNFBTVTIJDIFG tïó P )PXJTTVTIJNBEF tïó $PPLFESJDFGPSTVTIJtïó $VUUJOHVQmTItïó Nigiri [VTIJoIBOEGPSNFETVTIJtïô How to make nigiri [VTIJtïô Maki [VTIJoSPMMFETVTIJtïô How to make maki [VTIJtïô Maki-[VTIJHBMPSFtïõ (SJMMFEmTITLJOtïõ Gunkan-maki oCBUUMFTIJQTVTIJtïõ How to make HVOLBONBLJtïõ Chirashi [VTIJoTDBUUFSFETVTIJtïõ Oshi [VTIJoQSFTTFETVTIJtïõ Temaki [VTIJoIBOESPMMFETVTIJtïö How to make temaki [VTIJtïö $IJMESFOTTVTIJtïö Temari [VTIJoTVTIJCBMMTtïö _ #PSEFSJOHPONBEOFTTtïö x
A 4VTIJJTMJLFBMBOETDBQFtï÷ &WFSZUIJOHPOBCPBSEtï÷ _i-FUGPPECFUIZNFEJDJOFBOENFEJDJOFCFUIZGPPEwtï÷ Sushi à la carte M Salmon ( sake tðî Tuna ( maguro tðî Mackerel ( saba tðî .BSJOBUJOHNBDLFSFMtðî 5JMBQJBtðî 'MBUmTI hirame and karei tðî Herring ( nishin tðï Japanese sea bass ( suzuki tðï 1JLFQFSDItðï 0DFBOQFSDItðï Yellowtail ( hamachi tðï Eel ( unagi and anago tðï 1PMMPDLtðï #BMUJDXIJUFmTItðï Shrimp ( ebi tðï Octopus ( tako tðï Cuttlefish ( kōika ) and squid ( ika tðï Scallop ( hotategai tðï Omelette ( tamago-yaki tðð S Fugu oBQPJTPOPVTQMFBTVSFtðð Sea urchin roe ( uni tðð Long neck clam or geoduck ( mirugai tðð Sweet shrimp ( amaebi tðð Soft shell crab ( kani tðð 'JTITQFSN shirako tðð Raw horse ( uma tðð "e rest of the menu S Sashimi oKVTUQMBJOSBXtðñ Tsukemono oQJDLMFTtðñ Edamame oHSFFOTPZCFBOTtðñ 5PBTUFETFBXFFEtðñ Fu oAUIFNVTDMFPGUIFEPVHItðñ 4IJJUBLFtðñ Mushrooms, their aroma, and DBODFStðò "WPDBEPtðò 3JQFOJOHBOECSPXOJOHPGBWPDBEPTtðò Oven dried eggplants with red TIJTPtðòò ;VDDIJOJtðò Ee portulaca, or QVSTMBOF GBNJMZtðò (MBTTXPSUtðò xi
.BSJOBUFENBDLFSFMXJUIUPBTUFETFBXFFEtðò Shōyu NBSJOBUFETBMNPOtðò Oven baked salmon with HBSJtðó Enokitake tðó 4VTIJSJDFCBMMTtðó S Dashi omTITUPDLtðó Suimono oDMFBSCSPUItðó Katsuobushi omTIQSFTFSWFEmWFUJNFTPWFStðó Miso TPVQtðó Ee physics of miso TPVQtðó 4FBXFFETBMBETtðó 4JNNFSFETFBXFFEtðô $VDVNCFSXJUITFBXFFEtðô Gherkins with HBSJtðôï S +FMMJFTXJUIHSFFOUFBtðô Tofu XJUIHSFFOUFBtðô )POFZEFXNFMPOXJUIHSFFOUFBtðô *DFDSFBNXJUIHSFFOUFBtðô At the table & at the bar H ͳFPSEFSPGQSFTFOUBUJPOJOBTVTIJNFBMtðô )PXUPFBUTVTIJtðõ $IPQTUJDLTBOEUIFJSAUFODPNNBOENFOUTtðõ 8IBUTIPVMEPOFESJOL tðõ C – J 5FBJO+BQBOtðõ (SFFOUFBBOECMBDLUFBtðõ 8BUFSGPSUFBtðö Why does the kettle ‘talk’ XIFOXFCPJMXBUFS tðö +BQBOFTFHSFFOUFBtðö Maccha FUJRVFUUFtðö _ Ichigo ichie oFBDINPNFOU POMZPODFtðö E "e technical details G J S B 0OTVTIJBOETVTIJSFMBUFEGPPETtñï 0OUIFTDJFODFPGGPPEBOEGPPEQSFQBSBUJPOtñð 0OGBUT OVUSJUJPO BOEXFMMOFTTtñð 0O+BQBOFTFDVMUVSF FTQFDJBMMZJOSFMBUJPOUPGPPEtñð I Index