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Home to the Last Fishing Fleet in Connecticut and a Wealth of Historic

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Home to the Last Fishing Fleet in Connecticut and a Wealth of Historic Stonington Harbor Light—now the Old Lighthouse Museum— Children romp in the surf at duBois Beach, located on the southwest became the home of the Stonington Historical Society in 1925. shore of Stonington Point. The Many Sides of Stonington Home to the last fishing fleet in Connecticut and a wealth of historic and natural wonders, this salty Connecticut town has managed to preserve the past while embracing the present. by Holly Parker photographs by Car yn B. Davis The author (right) and her guide Jerry Wylie paddle their kayaks off Stonington’s Sandy Point, which also proves to be a fine anchorage for a powerboat. 48 Northeast Boating Magazine | November 2007 Girlfriends sit and chat outside Zia’s Jewelry & Accessories on Water Some of the town’s former mills and factories have been converted into Street, one of Stonington’s quaint downtown shops and boutiques. condominiums, like this one on the southeast side of Stonington Point. The Many Sides of Stonington t 7:30 a.m. the parking lot at the Barn Island boat The Barn Island Wildlife Management Area (BIWMA) launch bakes in the August sun. Waves of heat roll is the largest in the state, sprawling more than a thousand off the newly laid blacktop; seabirds drowse as I acres on the shores of Little Narragansett Bay and featuring gaze past Sandy Point to Napatree Point, barely four miles of hikeable trails. Once permitted for development visible though the haze. This will be the hottest as a golf course, the woods and marshes of the BIWMA are Aday of the year. now the protected home of dozens of bird, mammal and fish A pickup with two kayaks mounted on the roof rolls up. species. The low tide and the heat keep us from exploring the While most people in this southeast corner of Connecticut are marsh, but terns and sharp-tailed sparrows perch onshore to hard at work, I will be beating the heat on the water, explor- watch us get underway. Settled into my kayak, I rock my hips, ing Stonington’s nooks and crannies with kayaking guide Jerry feeling out my new ride. It’s like an extension of my legs; I go Wylie. Wylie, 58, jumps from his truck and starts unloading from 5 feet, 2 inches to 13 feet in an instant. Back straight, gear: paddles, spray skirts, water bottles and charts. We drag our hands shoulder width apart on the paddle, I push forward vessels to the water and I clamber inside gracelessly. Thankfully, with one hand and pull with the other. I clear the launch and there is no one around to observe my form. am afloat in a few quick strokes. ➤ Northeast Boating Magazine | November 2007 49 for the angler Watch for fluke in spring, blues in summer and albies in the fall by Tom Schlichter T o n the rela- m R i c tively protected h a r waters of d s o I n Fishers Island Above: The trawler Anne Kathryn is a part of Stonington’s still Speedy false albacore tears things up off Sound, Stonington, proud commercial fishing fleet and working waterfront. Connecticut offers Stonington in the fall. Opposite page: Sailboats moored in Wequetequock Cove, a quiet and exciting fishing pros- scenic anchorage off Little Narragansett Bay. pects from late spring right through Halloween. Stripers up to 40 pounds kick off the season, invading the nearby Watch Hill reef system in early May. These bass, says captain Steve Burnett of the Wylie leads the way. He came to Connecticut in 2001 and Stonington charter boat Lauren B (860-572-9896, www.fishwatch hill.com), are feasting on herring and squid and will eagerly slam started his company, Connecticut Coastal Kayaking, in 2003. reverse Atom poppers, herring chunks, large deceiver flies and He has paddled all over the world but loves the state’s varied pink, yellow or red squid flies. The reefs can be dangerous, how- waters. “It’s world-class,” he says. “It has everything—big tidal ever, so use caution when fishing this area. rivers, small forested rivers, lakes, tranquil marshes full of birds, Fluke arrive in late May, providing good fishing close to the beaches, rocky islands, historic tall ships and lighthouses.” beach off Napatree and Stonington Points or farther out along The going is easy, but sweaty. My feet swelter in the Noyes Shoal. Good numbers of fluke can also be found to the east neoprene booties and my lower body steams under the off Misquamicut Beach in Rhode Island in 40 to 60 feet of water. black spray skirt. Cool bay water drips from my blades onto “The bottom off Misquamicut is sandy,” explains Burnett, “and my knuckles and forearms. A few early-riser boaters are ideal for drifting live mummichogs, squid strips or even whole anchored off Sandy Point, a spur of land that was once a part squid. The average fish runs 19 to 22 inches, but fluke up to 10 of nearby Napatree, but is now an island. A hummock of sand pounds are taken every year at this spot. As the fluke settle in for and scrub, Sandy Point is popular with boaters, beachgoers the summer, try fishing off Isabella Beach on the south side of and especially fishermen, because the surrounding shallows Fishers Island, where the fish will feed on any moving water.” nurture schools of baitfish that attract larger predators. July and August mean action with chopper blues up to 12 According to Stonington Harbormaster Eric Donch, Sandy pounds around Fishers Island, Watch Hill Reef, Middle Ground and Latimer Reef. You can pop them on top, but trolling umbrella rigs or Point is owned by the former Mashantucket Land Trust (now diamond jigging over structure is often more dependable. called the Avalonia Land Conservancy, Inc.) and is managed by The bottom-bouncing crew can delight in fine porgy (scup) the Stonington Community Center, which sells season passes fishing during July and August in 35 to 40 feet of water off Latimer or charges a nominal daily fee. Donch describes the Sandy Point Light and around Ram Island Reef. Clam baits are best for the scup, scene as a beach version of the TV show “Cheers.” which average one to two pounds. “It’s a pretty regular crowd that hangs out towards the west- Soon after Labor Day, false albacore begin to slice though ern end of the point,” Donch says. “You can almost count on Fishers Island Sound. You can entice these speedsters with Deadly whose boat will be in a certain position on any given Saturday Dicks, Yo-Zuri Crystal Minnows, white Zoom Super Flukes and Fin-S- and Sunday.” Fish. In the fly department, epoxy anchovies or Skok’s Mushmouth We pass into the waters that separate Napatree and Sandy streamers usually do the trick. Look for the albies to show around Points, our kayaks inches above the smooth bottom. In my Watch Hill, Ram Island Reef and in the rips off Fishers Island—but shadow, spider crabs scurry, claws upraised at the silent don’t blink or you’ll miss the run. intruder above. My blades scrape the bottom, the soft sand “The fall is pure mayhem,” says Burnett, “the kind of fishing you hissing at their touch. As I pass into deeper water, fingers of sea don’t want to miss. All the predator species slam together as they grass caress the hull. I forget the heat as I gaze into the green tear into schools of baitfish heading south from New England or exiting the local rivers, creeks and harbors. Surface action explodes coolness below. in late September, and October sees wild casting and jigging for Wylie enjoys paddling the waters around Stonington, bass and blues throughout Fishers Island Sound. Given mild weath- which offer a variety of waypoints for kayakers of all levels. er, both species will stay into November.” “I love the quiet and intimate waterways at Barn Island, the expansive beach at Napatree, the harbor full of yachts, 50 Northeast Boating Magazine | November 2007 sailboats, and fishing boats and even the occasional surf off fragments of shattered pottery that failed to meet standards or Napatree Point,” he says. was used as scrap to help fire pitchers, vases and jugs in the My kayak rolls only slightly as we round Napatree. Even works’ massive kilns. the sea is lazy today. A cluster of ancient pilings marks the pier I dip my hand into the cool water, and my fingers close on a that once graced Rhode Island’s most westerly point. Perched perfectly formed hollow handle. I pull it, smooth and slippery atop the angled pilings, a flock of cormorants stretches its with sea growth, to the surface and lay it on the foredeck. A wings to dry in the sun. The beauty of sea kayaking lies in its periwinkle has made a home on this hollow antique. I can see near silence. Jerry and I stop talking as I glide closer, my pad- where a potter’s thumb pulled and shaped the handle almost dling slow and controlled. While cormorants are notorious two centuries before. Although it never rested on a shelf, it has pests, I can’t help but admire them. Awkward and even ugly found a safe haven on the ocean floor. I drop the handle over- ashore, they are graceful swimmers, and any animal that can board and watch it settle on the bottom. glide through both air and water is worthy of respect. I drift After a day of paddling, Wylie likes nothing more than to among the pilings to get a closer look.
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