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F1 TRAVEL 12-20-09 EZ EE F1 CMYK

ABCDE Travel F sunday, december 20, 2009

GOING OUR WAY Road Trip Tens of thousands of bulbs light up a state park. F2 “Every time you look Sustainable and affordable? How to see Machu Picchu and the What’s the Deal? Southwest’s sale lasts only one more day. F2 outside your window, Galapagos Islands with minimal you know that a lot is disruption. F3 The Navigator Helping readers solve their travel disputes. F3 “ missing.” CHAT 2 p.m. Monday at washingtonpost.com/travel. — Debi Thomas, Biloxi, Miss., F6

A large statue of the Virgin Mary stands over Maaloula, Syria, where the ancient

Aramaic language

is still spoken.

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F4 TRAVEL 12-20-09 EZ EE F4 CMYK

F4 KLMNO SUNDAY, DECEMBER 20, 2009 A Christian heritage thrives in the hills of Syria

maaloula continued from F1 they realized how important it was, so they started teaching it in that it had never been used for church. The Germans opened our blood sacrifices. The icons on the eyes and showed us we had some- walls included one of John the thing special.” Baptist, particularly appropriate The language got another boost given the ceremony we were in 2004 when Mel Gibson’s movie about to witness. “The Passion of the Christ” de- Then the priest arrived, and we picted Jesus speaking Aramaic, stood quietly to the side as the providing English subtitles. But prayers were said and the baby few villagers could follow the dia- anointed. Here, for this brief mo- logue. A shepherd told a visiting ment, Aramaic was not a dead filmmaker from London that the relic but a living thing, a flower movie language sounded “broken” bursting through a crack in the to his ear. Maaloula’s vernacular is stones, greeting a child into a “faster and stronger,” he said. community of Christians that re- Faster and stronger applies to fuses to be swallowed up by the St. Thekla as well. Born in what’s Muslim world at its doorstep. now the Turkish city of Konya at Syria is known in the West for the time of Christ, she was forbid- its combustible politics: an ad- den to hear St. Paul when he came versary committed to the de- CHRISTOPHEto preach GOUSSARD the gospel. Sitting at her struction of Israel; a supporter of open window, she miraculously radical Islamic organizations heard his voice and was instantly such as Hezbollah in Lebanon; a converted.Tigri sAfter she broke her en- TURKEY R

sanctuary for terrorists operating gagement and. vowed to remain a

across the border in Iraq. Many “bride of Christ,” she was sen-

C M Y K friends who heard that we were F1 tencedEu to death by fire. But a sud- ph

vacationing in Syria thought we den ra storm doused the flames.

TRAVEL 12-20-09 EZ EE F1 te CMYK SYRIA s C M Y K F5 Med. were daft, but few realized that When she R spurned the advances of the country’s extensive Christian Sea a nobleman. in the city of Antioch, TRAVEL 12-20-09 EZ EELEB. F5Maaloula CMYK heritage — St. PaulKeeping was converted the faith she was thrown into a pit with on the road to Damascus, after all Damascus wild beasts, which refused to at- — is still here to be seen and ISRAEL tack her.IRAQ Eventually, Paul blessed heard and felt. WEST her decision to live as an ascetic As a Jew, I never felt unsafe or LAIF/MAXBANK GALLI/REDUX virgin here in the hills of Maalou- unwelcome in Syria, but the SAUDIla, but she faced one more trial: A Christian steeples and Muslim minarets coexist inABCDE Maaloula, which is built on a steep hill. ARABIA country’s once vibrant Jewish JORDAN local peasant vowed to plunder SUNDAY, DECEMBER 20, 2009 KLMNO 0 100 F5 population has been driven away, wash, a gesture of respect to the DETAILS her virtue.MILES She fled his advances, and the grand synagoguein of Alep- mothera of Jesus. Syrian Hana pointed out town and the mountain opened beforeF po lies decaying and desecrated the mountaintops where every GETTING THERE necessary, this is the place to intriguing destinations in theM.K. CANNISTRA/THEher, WASHINGTON offering POST a narrow path of es- behind iron gates. Syria has tak- year fires are lighted to celebrate The drive to Maaloula from stay if you really want to get a region. The Krak des Chevaliers, cape. en a differentVIEW view FINDER of its Chris- the Festival of thestrong Holy sun Cross. bounced offDamascus the light- takesman about officer, an hour a secretsense Christian of the town,Jesus, research is still spoken.a spectacular Now hemountaintophigh to clamber aroundThat apath steep, exists today, and after tian population, whichWhere remains the language(Legend says thatcolored after limestoneHelena, walls.over My reasonably wife, whose good roads, faith wasbut unmaskedAramaic whenor make aasked more whether we’dfortress like builtto hear by the Crusaders,stony village.) is lunch we followed the footsteps of at about 10 percent, 14 ofcenturies Jesus livesmother on of Constantine,Cokie, andthe I firstsought thehiring shade a carof a and hedriver refused is to participateextended in a pilgrimagesac- the to Lord’s the Prayer90 in minutes his mother to the north;We followed theSt. party Thekla into through the the cleft in the after the region’s conquest by Christian Roman porticoemperor, as found our guide,Travelpreferable Hana, ex- to drivingrifice yourself. to Zeus. Sergiusmonasteries and his of St.tongue, Thekla andand of coursePalmyra, we said a well-preserved yes. monastery church,rock and for Hana perhaps rec- a half-mile. Many Arabic-speaking Muslims. The the relics of Jesus’splained cross in theJerusa- history surroundingFinding your wayfriend outsunday, of Bacchus, december a fellowSt. Sergius.20, 2009officer Right nextHana to St. held out hiscaravan arms stopand onin- the ognizedold Silk one of thecaves women pocked as his the cliffs above us, Baath Party, which byhas Steven ruled V.lem Roberts in 325, she orderedus. her ser- Damascus can beand difficult, co-religionist, and wereSergius, tortured the hotel tonedhas great the familiarRoad, words is several in a hourswife’s to the school friend.some They used were for tombs in antiquity, since 1963, is decidedlySpecial secular. to The Washingtonvants to light Post a seriesThe of firesoriginal that church,the he signs said, are notand always executed in the viewsSyrian over city the of valley,strange as well language as east; that Hama, to betweenme there the Krak for a baptism,others she told for dwellings. him, The walk was a bit treacherous, and I was start- GOINGBut one OURof its founders,WAY Michel eventually carried datedword offrom her dis-the 4th centurytourist-friendly.Road butTrip TensYourResafa, hotelof thousandsand or many of achurches bulbs tennis lightcourt in up and asounded astate swimming park. a bit F2 like andHebrew. Aleppo, We is sa- a pleasantand asriver “Everywe waited for time the cer- you look SustainableAflaq, was Greek andWe affordable?Orthodox. were standingcovery in the back court- to thewas Byzantine built on cap- top of a pagantravel agencysanc- canthis easily country arrange bear theirpool. names. vored the momenttown as theknown prayer for ancientemony wooden to begin, inghe togave worry us abouta turning an an- ChristiansNew have yardtraditionally of St. Sergius, itala Greek of Zealand’sConstantinople.) Catho- tuary, and some of thea car wooden and driver forMaaloula the day, or is Hana’strue home vil- echoed off the natureancientwater stones. wheels that oncequick irrigated tour. A stonekle altar, when dating we suddenly found our- outside your window, Howserved to seein high Machu governmentlic Picchu monastery and posts, the in theWe Syrian went hillfirst tobeams, St. Sergius, made the of LebaneseyouWhat’s can cedar, simply the engagelage, Deal? and a taxi; Southwest’son the driveWHERE sale from lastsTO the EAT only oneThen more a doorday. F2opened,the desert. and in from the church’sselves earliest at a days,monastery dedicated to Galapagosand Christian Islands townpractices with ofminimal Maaloula, and highestabout an point hour in town,were and more though than 2,000they years are old. plentiful.capital Syria has he twohad toldSt. us Thekla proudly Restaurantwalked about 30 well-dressed youhad no knowrim or drain St.that spout,Thekla. aa signThe lot sanctuary is is built disruption.monuments F3 are widelynortheast respect- of Damascus.not every It was traveler a Also gets known to see as a Mar classesSarkis,The Navigator ofthe taxis:that Yellow thisHelping ones is one are readers of theJust solvefew down places their the hilltravel frompeople disputes. the who Safir clearly F3 PLANNING were not tour- A TRIP on the spot where she lived in a “ cave until her death at age 90. ed. In the bazaarshot of Aleppo,day in latethe summer,baptism and in Aramaic,the monastery there are wasusu- namedsmall for anda Ro- cheap,where while Aramaic,“star” thehotel language (you can of getists. directions (No atone wearsIn the heels Internet that age, itmissing.” hasmaaloula continued on F4 names on the gold and jewelry ally guides or schoolgirls present taxisCHAT are a2 bit p.m. larger Monday and more at washingtonpost.com/travel.the desk), this is at the head of become more possible— Debi to plan Thomas, Biloxi,A Miss., series F6 of steps mounts the hill stores are still mainly Armenian, to recite the Lord’s Prayer in the expensive; both can be hired at the gorge through which St. trips on your own, even to to her tomb, separated by pleasing reflecting the influx of Arme- language. These guides report that reasonable rates for day trips Thekla made her epic escape. countries such as Syria that terraces with bubbling fountains, nians who fled Turkey during visitors often burst into tears outside the capital. Another The menu is simple and familiar don’t especially cater to tourists. Syria’s all-purpose climate-control World War I. The town has the while they are chanting. Before option is a minibus; the station — hummus, grilled kebabs, baba We found, however, that using an system. I did not make it to the second-largest Christian popula- leaving, we stopped at the souve- for Maaloula is near Abassidas ghanouj (mashed eggplant agency was more efficient and top, but Cokie, always eager to rec- tion in the Middle East, after Bei- nir shop, which dispenses local Square in Damascus, next to the mixed with onions, tomatoes worth the extra expense. Jackie ognize uppity women, did. The rut. wine, honey and crafts. My wife, football stadium. There’s no and spices) — but the food was Rush at Frosch ATravel people in A largeclimb statue reaches of a cool, calming TheNot far from lingering Maaloula sits the who ischarms Catholic, bought a pair of fixed schedule, though; the as fresh as the mountain breeze Washington is an expert on the the Virginplace Marywhere pilgrims rest and Krak des Chevaliers, a mountain fish-shaped lace antimacassars buses depart whenever they’re on our terrace. The bill for three region ([email protected]). standspray. over Many have left tokens of fortress built by Crusaders in the that now adorn a chair in our bed- full. Tour buses also go to was less than $30. If you go, be surephotographer to get your visa Maaloula,their petitions: Syria, holy cards, medals, 12th and 13th centuries. In the room. Maaloula frequently. from the embassy here, and wheresmall the ancientgifts of thanks for healed ofold city of Damascus, a chapel We had lunch at a restaurant OTHER SITES avoid a hassle at the airport in Aramaiclimbs language and spirits. I can only imag- is still spoken. marks the spot where Paul was church,named Newfor St. Zealand, Thekla, was the a patron nifty WHERE TO STAY We visited Maaloula on our way Damascus. takes a breakine what women pray for at the nursed byand Cliff taught Terry by a local throwbacksaint of Maaloula, to a more where elegant we era.were Safir Maaloula to Aleppo, which is five hours — S.V.R. shrine of St. Thekla, but I’m pretty Christian,Special to TheSt. Ananias,Washington after Post his Itshown didn’t to hurt a pleasant that the terrace weather sur- 011-963-11-777-0250 north of Damascus, and you can to turn hissure it is not the gift of obedience. vision. Several of the country’s wasrounded nearly by perfect, leafy trees. a chamber-of- There we Though an overnight isn’t combine a stop here with other That is the spirit of Maaloula. It bewilderingObviously, itarray was a veryof Christian touristy commerce-liketalked about the fall town’s day linguistic (early is not a walled city or a garrison thingsects to— do.from But Armenian we were Orthodoxready for April,heritage. temperatures Aramaic actually in the upper is not lens on thetown, but it is fighting a battle to- ato relaxed Syrian punting Catholic sojourn — maintain on the 70s).one languageAs Kenneth but Grahame a variety of wrote local across the Levant, but remote a common story: The language was replaced by his son Bashar, a day, a culture war to preserve its lovelyheadquarters Avon River, in Damascus, with a young and indialects, “The shapedWind in by thetime Willows”: and place, mountain villages such as Maalou- seemed old-fashioned, even em- slightly more otherworldlyprogressive leader. language, its religion, its history. manwe were doing surprised all the to work see crosses, as he “Thereand the is one nothing spoken — in absolutelyMaaloula is la, untouched and unoccupied, barrassing, and younger people Under Bashar’s patronage, the Perhaps the child we saw baptized movedoutlined us inalong vivid with bluish-white the aid of ne- a nothingofficially — Westernhalf so worth Neo-Aramaic. doing as were able to retain their tradi- disdained it. University of Damascus opened an was one of St. Thekla’s miracles. longon, pole.shimmering in the evening messingLarge portions about in of boats.” the Talmud, a tions. That started changing in the Then, about 20 years ago, a institute in Maaloulanature teaching of Ar- [email protected] sky.The punt, of course, is a tradi- compilation“I’ve actually of Jewishbeen teachingspunt-hi- 1920s, when French colonials built group of German scholars came to amaic, where Hana’s two daugh- tionalAs soonEnglish as you flat-bottom enter Maaloula, boat jacked,”and commentaries, cracked our polewere person. written a road through the mountains. Maaloula to study Aramaic, and ters studied last summer. One of Roberts teaches journalism and mostits religious famously heritage associated is evident. with A “Somein Aramaic; macho so tourists were the are Dead eager Sea Bus service to Damascus, radio villagers started realizing that the teachers, ImadNew Rihan, Zealand. told the politics at George Washington Oxfordlarge statue and Cambridge, of the Virgin and Mary the toScrolls take theand boat the themselves,Biblical books and of and television, and the lure of bet- their precious heritageMICHAEL TEMCHINE was FORworth THE WASHINGTONCatholic POST News Service: “Twenty University and is the author of the

30-minutedominates trip one through hillside; the beau-many Ezra and Daniel. Gradually Greek ter workThe in sun bigger sets over cities a cemeterydrained inpreserving. Wanganui, In on 2000, New Zealand’sthe iron-fist- Northyears Island. ago peopleF5 started giving up recently published “From Every End of

tifulhouses Botanic are painted Gardens in ain pale Christ- blue and thencity Arabiccontinued replaced on F4Aramaic the pool of Aramaic speakers. It is ed ruler of Syria, Hafez al-Assad, on Aramaic. Then 10 years ago, This Earth.”

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Meandering through a ‘GardenF1 City’ city continued from F1 and-cream-colored trams. But footing it is best, leading to all so they jump up, grab the pole, Pacific 0 200 kinds of serendipitous discover- and do it.” Ocean MILES ies, including such delights as the No such inclinations on our NEW ZEALAND wonderfully cluttered Smith’s part. After two weeks of tramping Bookshop, crammed with more (i.e., hiking) the mountains of than 80,000 secondhand books South New Zealand’s spectacular South Pacific on three floors, including a sec- Island and sea kayaking its la- Ocean tion on New Zealand authors. goons with a group paced by hyp- Antarctica Christchurch is home to myri- er-competitive 30- and 40-year- ad and diverse restaurants. We olds (“It’s not a race,” they kept in- even stumbled across our first- Auckland sisting as they charged up moun- Tasman PHOTOS BY MICHAEL TEMCHINEever FORBurmese THE WASHINGTON restaurant, POST the tains and frenetically pedaled Sea North Bodhi Tree, on the main thor- Castle Hill, New Zealand, is dotted with limestone outcroppings and boulders. Rain is common in October, and the Temchines were able only to glimpse theIsland sun among the rapidly moving clouds. down highways), my wife, Pat, oughfare, Colombo Street, a five- and I were ready to unwind. minute walk from Cathedral Our base for the next four days Square. The waitress suggested Wellington would be Christchurch, the larg- South some exotic dishes, all of which s Island lp est townEditor’s (population note: View Finderabout is a new A were superb, especially the un- rn e Christchurch 360,000)occasional on the South feature Island spotlighting and the work th appetizing-sounding tea salad u o the onlyof Postone andwith other an photographersinterna- from S (pickled tea leaves mixed with tional airport.their travels. garlic, beans, sesame seeds and When most people think of chili) and tofu thoke (yellow split- New Zealand, they envision the pea tofu tossed with salad greens rugged scenery. But its cities are M.K. CANNISTRA/THE WASHINGTON POST and dressed with tamarind), also worthWHEN exploring, MICHAEL especially TEMCHINE went to which drew raves even from con- Christchurch,New Zealand known onas histhe honeymoon,Gar- he had firmed tofu-haters. den City.one At rule: first No inspection, photographs it of people. Punting tours along the Avon Other places we liked included seems toBecause be a townthe Capitol of limited Hill resident’s work River offer visitors lovely views the charmingly funky Cook ’N’ CHRISTOPHE GOUSSARD charms, consistsits many primarily historical of build- freelance editorial of Christchurch. With Gas, across from the Arts ings andassignments homes surrounded and wedding by photography, he LOU PIEZZO Centre on Worcester Boulevard; hideous tookexamples a break fromof sterilely faces and turned his lens trendy Sticky Fingers (on restau- rant-heavyTigris Oxford Terrace across modern onor nature.outright And awful there archi- was plentymost of of it the to essentialsee sights. watch artisans at work, turning out Also in the Centre are eateries glican ChristChurch Cathedral,TURKEY R tecture. onBut the after 2,500-mile, a few days, three-week the Atrip good he andspot to start exploring is high-caliber products such as tap- (try the ), theater and an impressive Gothic structure from the Avon. River), offering hu- place growshis bride, on one, Eliza, mainly took due in toa camperthe Arts van. Centre of Christchurch, a estries, quilts, pottery and wood dance companies, art-house cin- where services are conducted in mongous portions and cutely Eu its centerpiece:As beautiful the andappealing otherworldly10-minute as New walk from Cathedral sculptures. emas, a bookstore and offices hous- English and Maori. Missing our namedph drinks; and the bustling ra Avon, which meanders through Square, the bustling heart of the Other Arts Centre spaces include ing such organizations as the Royal mountain hiking, we paid a fee to Cafet Valentino, across from Bodhi Zealand is, weather made photography SYRIA es Med. R the neighborhoods,difficult, especially popping in up the at southwest,city. The centerwhere is a handsome com- Rutherford’s Den, a multimedia Forest & Bird Protection Society. On climb 133 narrow, windingSea steps Tree, a. favorite of the theatrical times in itunexpected rained every places. day. “Eliza andpound I never of buildings once occupied presentation honoring Canterbury weekends there’s an open-air mar- in the cathedral’s tower;LEB. uponMaaloulaset. As for the dress code, no wor- Keeping1 the faith 2 by Canterbury College (later the scientist Ernest Rutherford, a No- ket filled with vendors staffing reaching the top, we were greeted ries. We had dropped in earlier at Like stayedAustralia’s more thanMelbourne, 1 ⁄ days in any location,” Damascus ChristchurchTemchine — often said. dubbed “I did notthe haveUniversity the time ofto Canterbury), which bel Prize winner who did pioneer- stalls selling everything from by a congratulatoryISRAEL sign pro- Sticky Fingers to ask about chang- most Englishwait for of Newthe weather Zealand to cit- change.was It founded required in 1873 and modeled ing work on the atom (and who goat’s-milk soap to silver spoons claiming that only 16,167 more ing IRAQour rather travel-worn WEST ies — is aan great editorial place photographer’s for walking. approachafter England’s to Oxford University, once remarked, “Ions are such jolly bent into imaginative candle hold- steps would have taken BANKus to the clothes, and one waiter cheerfully A good startnature is the photography: always bustling You takewith what one you major difference: It ad- little beggars; you can almost see ers, along with eclectic buskers — summit of Mount Cook, New Zea- SAUDIinformed us, “No one dresses up Christchurchcan get & whenCanterbury you can Visi- get it.”mitted women from the start. In them”). There’s also the Te Toi Mana including, one Sunday afternoon, a land’s highest peak. JORDAN ARABIAanymore, guys.” tor Centre in Cathedral Square, 1975,— theJoe growingYonan university moved, art gallery, selling Maori crafts, and passable Sinatra impersonator. For those who want a break One0 morning100 we wandered the heart of the city.in A key piece of leavinga the Gothic Syrian RevivalOn the struc- Temchines’the impressive tour of this Cave small Rock country Gallery,town (populationFree guided 4 million), tours ofthey the found Centre myriad op- plantsfrom walking, and wildlife. board Clockwise the free yel- from topthrough left:MILES by the Cathedral beautiful Hagley literature is “Christchurch City tures to be occupied Cove,by various a tui, a songbirdwith its propensity that can be forfound signs throughout such erate the daily. country; sheep on the Otago Peninsulalow shuttle in southern buses, which New take Zealand you (therePark, a refollowing, about 40 whenever we Centre Walks,” offering three shops and craftspeople.million In the inold theas: country); “All unattended a fern unfurling children along will be a pathThe to Cathedral centerpiece Cove ofin theCathedral north. to all the major sights, M.K.or, CANNISTRA/THEfor a WASHINGTON POST compact routes that take you to chemistry building, visitors may captured and sold as slaves.” Square, not surprisingly, is the An- modest fee, the vintage green- city continued on F5 strong sun bounced off the light- man officer, a secret Christian Jesus, is still spoken. Now he high to clamber around a steep, Where the language colored limestone walls. My wife, whose faith was unmasked when asked whether we’d like to hear stony village.) of Jesus lives on Cokie, and I sought the shade of a he refused to participate in a sac- the Lord’s Prayer in his mother We followed the party into the

portico as our guide, Hana, ex- rifice to Zeus. Sergius and his tongue, and of course we said yes. monastery church, and Hana rec-

plained the history surrounding friend Bacchus, a fellow officer Hana held out his arms and in- ognized one of the women as his C M Y K city continued from F4 Antarctic discovery section and ing harbor with huge containerF4 DETAILS by Steven V.information Roberts about us.New Zealand’s ships and storage tanks.and co-religionist, A small, were tortured toned the familiar words in a wife’s school friend. They were could, the ubiquitousSpecial Avon. to Lo- The Washingtonearly colonists. Post The original church,funky littlehe said, town thatand executedreminded in the SyrianGETTING city THERE of strange language that to me there for a baptism,011-64-3-797-976 she told him, dated from the 4th century but Resafa, and many churches in sounded a bit like Hebrew.Cook ’N’ We With sa- Gasand as we waited for the cer- cals use Hagley for golf, rugby, For the adventurous, all kinds us of places in rural Colorado, it United and Air New Zealand have 23 Worcester Blvd., www.smithsbookshop.co.nz tennis and guiding Weradio-con- were standingof activities in the court- operatewas out built of Christ- on top ofhas a pagan a bustling sanc- mainthis street country and bear theirflights names. from Washingtonvored theDulles moment and as the prayer emony to begin, heOpen gave Monday us a through Friday 10:15 yard of St. Sergius, a Greek Catho- tuary, and some of the wooden Maaloula is Hana’s home vil- echoed off the ancient011-64-3-377-9166 stones. quick tour. A stone altar, dating trolled sailboats on a lagoon. Lat- church, including hot-air bal- some nice restaurants. Activities BWI to Christchurch with round-trip www.cooknwithgas.co.nz a.m. to 5:30 p.m., Saturday from er, a taxi driver toldlic usmonastery that Ha- in looning,the Syrian jet hillboating,beams, horse made treks, of Lebaneseinclude cedar,visiting lage,the andhistoric on the drivefares from starting the at aboutThen $1,700. a door opened, and in from the church’s 10:15earliest a.m. days, to 2:30 p.m. Closed town of Maaloula, about an hour were more than 2,000 years old. capital he had told us proudly walked about 30 Fixed-pricewell-dressed offeringshad at noabout rim $47 or drain spout, a sign gley, with its 500 acres, was the fly-fishing, Clydesdale wagon ad- Timeball Station (where a ball a head include grilled salmon, Sundays. third-largest city northeastpark in ofthe Damascus.ventures It andwas bungee a Also jumping. known as Marwas Sarkis,dropped the at preciselythat this 1 isp.m. one of theWHERE few places TO STAYpeople who clearly were not tour- hot day in late summer, and the monastery was named for a Ro- where Aramaic, the language of ists. (No one wearsprime heels filet that and belly maaloulaof pork, as well continuedCanterbury on F4 Museum world behind New York’s Central We took in a few films in audi- daily for 58 years to provide Eliza’s Manor on Bealey as a la carte entrees starting at Rolleston Avenue and Worcester and London’s Hyde. He added ence-friendly cinemas selling ships’ masters with the correct 82 Bealey Ave., about $19. Boulevard, 011-64-3-366-5000 that, astoundingly, there are wine and beer that you can take time), taking walks around the 011-64-3-366-8584 Sticky Fingers www.canterburymuseum.com about 650 parks in Christchurch, to your seat — which, incidental- hills and booking a dolphin- or www.elizas.co.nz Free, donations appreciated. Open and who were we to doubt him? ly, helps kill time, because the whale-watching cruise. This charming, vintage Restaurant & Bar In the , Oxford daily except Christmas 9 a.m. to As for the Botanic Gardens, ad- films invariably start late. In fact, Earlier, one Sunday evening bed-and-breakfast has been a 5:30 p.m. October through March, jacent to the Canterbury Museum the Kiwis (as New Zealanders back in Christchurch, we had at- family home for much of its life. Terrace, 011-64-3-366-6451 www.stickyfingers.co.nz and 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. April through tended a service at the cathedral Rates start at about $135. September. to hear the famed boys’ choir. The Offers an extensive menu, from Chateau on the Park Hotel specialty sandwichesA people such as ChristChurch Cathedral The lingering charms sermon, delivered by a university 189 Deans Ave., Christchurch — often dubbed the professor on the subject of love, grilled fish and spiced lamb ($12) Cathedral Square, 011-3-366-0046 011-64-3-348-8999 to shared seafood and antipasto www.christchurchcathedral.co.nz noted that many New Zealand www.chateau-park.co.nz photographer most English of New Zealand men still have difficulty showing platters for four ($36 to $43) to of Christchurch An older hotel surrounded by five entrees priced from $17 to $26. cities — is a great place for walking. emotions, such as hugging. On a acres of landscaped gardens. takes a break2 Cambridge Terr., church, New Zealand, was a nifty more secular level, we learned Rooms start at about $80. Cafe Valentino 011-64-3-366-0337 by Cliff Terry throwback to a more elegant era. from others that beer-loving Kiwi 813 Colombo St., www.punting.co.nz onSpecial Rolleston to The Avenue: Washington simply Post su- proudlyIt didn’t call hurt themselves) that the weatherseem a men were still reluctant to drink WHERE TO EAT 011-64-3-377-1886to turn hisFor punting on the Avon. Offers perb. Along with our favorite riv- bitwas conflicted.nearly perfect, These a chamber-of- extremely wine, considering it, apparently, Dux de Lux www.cafevalentino.co.nz 30-minute tours; adults $14, er, Obviously,there are giganticit was a very trees touristy from activecommerce-like people take fall advantage day (early of a somewhat effete libation. At Hereford and Montreal streets A European-stylelens cafe. Pizza on and thechildren 5 to 15 $7, children thething 19th to centurydo. But we and, were in all, ready more for theApril, outdoors temperatures by hiking in the and upper kay- But during our relaxing outing in the Arts Centre, pasta $13 to $18. Entrees such as younger than 5 free. Hours, 10 thana relaxed 10,000 punting exotic sojourn and indig-on the aking70s). As and Kenneth jumping Grahame off things, wrote but on the Avon River, our friendly 011-64-3-366-6919 chicken, beef and veal, $13 to a.m. to 4 p.m. May 1 to Sept. 30; 9 enouslovely plantsAvon River,(check with out thea young rose insidein “The they Wind patiently in the Willows”:wait for punter wanted to dispel that www.thedux.co.nz $24. otherworldlya.m. to 6 p.m. Oct. 1 to April 31. andman herbdoing gardens all the particularly)work as he movies“There tois beginnothing and — restaurants absolutely stereotype, at least on a personal The name is Latin for “masters of displayedmoved us inalong a gorgeously with the aid land- of a tonothing serve. —(At half one so cafe, worth we doing tried toas level. the finest.” Specializes in pizza WHAT TO DO FOR MORE INFORMATION scapedlong pole. setting. There also may be ordermessing soup about and in were boats.” told that it “I drink wine as well as beer,” $12 to $21. Arts Centrenature of Christchurch City Council unexpectedThe punt, sights. of course, While is adrink- tradi- would“I’ve beactually ready inbeen 20 minutes.punt-hi- he confided. “Maybe it’s because I 2 Worcester Blvd., www.christchurch.org.nz ingtional coffee English in an outdoorflat-bottom cafe, boat we Whatjacked,” about cracked coffee, our then? pole person.Oh, 15 run with a different circle. I The Bodhi Tree 011-64-3-366-0989 808 Colombo St., New Zealand.Christchurch & Canterbury noticedmost famously a young motherassociated feeding with minutes.)“Some macho tourists are eager mean, we can hug anybody!” www.artscentre.org.nz Visitor Centre herOxford baby and as sheCambridge, lit up an andunmis- the to Fortake a thelook boat outside themselves, the city, and we [email protected] 011-64-3-377-6808MICHAEL TEMCHINE FOR THE WASHINGTONOpen POST 9:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily. Burmese cuisine, featuring such 15-31 Cathedral Square, takably30-minute “aromatic” trip through cigarette. the beau- opted for a 25-minute bus ride The sun sets over a cemetery in Wanganui, on New Zealand’s North Island.Free. F5 011-64-3-379-9629 tifulThe Botanic Canterbury Gardens Museum in Christ- itself (No. 28city just offcontinued Cathedral on Square)F4 Terry is a Chicago-based freelance dishes as tea salad and tofu thoke. Dinner only. Dishes range from Smith’s Bookshop www.christchurchnz.com

(founded in 1867) is not to be to Lyttelton Harbour, home to writer and a former critic for the 133 Manchester St., — C.T. missed, with its Maori gallery, Christchurch’s port, a real work- Chicago Tribune. about $11 to $19.

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