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PAGE ON THE YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE 46 In-depth reviews, detailed listings ROAD and insider tips

The Marquesas p174

COUNTRY & MULTICOUNTRY • The original • Comprehensive • Adventurous p126 p143 The p98 p151

Ra'iatea & Taha'a p48 p110 Mo'orea p77

PHRASEBOOKS The The Australs Archipelago p203 p203

Looking for other travel resources?

PAGE SURVIVAL VITAL PRACTICAL INFORMATION TO 235 GUIDE HELP YOU HAVE A SMOOTH TRIP

Directory A–Z ...... 236 Transport ...... 246 Language ...... 253 Index ...... 265 Language LONELYPLANET.COM APPS EBOOKS Tahitian and French are the o՗ cial languagesMAGAZINE Welcome. Maeva, mó of French , but Tahitian is spoken Thank you. Móuruuru. more than it is written. Although French dominates, many of those working in the Excuse me./Sorry. E’e, aue ho ForMap travel Legend information, ...... Location-based 271 Guidebooks tourist industry can speak some English;For No problem./Don’t travel worry. Aita stories, pe’ape once you venture to the more remote and less touristy islands where the Tahitian dia- Yes. E, ’oia. advice, tips & digital guides for the street for your readerlects are spoken, it’s deÀ nitely useful to knowinspiration No. Aita. & ideas some French. Pardon? E aha? chapters TAHITIAN How are you? E aha lonelyplanet.com/mobile lonelyplanet.com/ebooksTahitian (also known as Maohi) belongs lonelyplanet.com/magazineMy name is ... To’ to the group of Polynesian languages that country cludes Samoan, Maori, Hawaiian, Raroton- and Tongan. There are several dialects of I don’t understand. an. The spread of Christianity through Good luck! olynesia helped make the variety the most widespread. I’m ill. ounds are also found in pronounced as fol- STAY IN TOUCH lonelyplanet.com/contact twitter.com/ AUSTRALIATHIS EDITION Locked WRITTEN Bag 1, Footscray, AND RESEARCHED Victoria 3011 BY %03 8379 8000, fax 03 8379 8111 lonelyplanet

Paper in this book is certified USA 150 LindenCeleste Street, Oakland, Brash CA 94607 facebook.com/ against the Forest Stewardship %510 250 6400, toll free 800 275 8555, fax 510 893 8572 lonelyplanet Council™ standards. FSC™ promotes environmentally responsible, socially Jean-Bernard Carillet lonelyplanet.com/ beneficial and economically viable UK Media Centre, 201 Wood Lane, London W12 7TQ management of the world’s forests. %020 8433 1333, fax 020 8702 0112 newsletter

tahiti-french-polynesia-9-cover.indd 2 00-title page-tah9.indd 1 24/05/2012 3:55:063:48:26 PM “All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!” TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET Get the right guides for your trip

PAGE PLAN YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT 2 Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions YOUR TRIP to help you put together your perfect trip

Welcome to Tahiti & ...... 2 Welcome to Tahiti & French Map ...... 4 Polynesia 15 Top Experiences ...... 6 Need to Know ...... 14 COUNTRYCOUUNTRY & MULTICOUNTRYCO If You Like ...... 16 • The original Month by Month ...... 19 • Comprehensive • AdventurousAdventuAd rouss

Itineraries ...... 22 If You The Dream as blue. However, today there are freeways, Christianity has instilled more conserva- Tahiti: just the word conjures up centur- tive values and people work nine-to-À ve Like ies’ worth of images: hibiscus Á owers; jobs. French Polynesia has not escaped the svelte, bronze dancers in grass skirts; modern world but embraced it. True, it’s a humid breeze over turquoise sea. The not the perfect, untainted paradise of ex- Which Island? ...... 26 islands of French Polynesia became legends plorer lore, but at least there’s a pretty fast the minute the À rst European explorers internet connection. reached their home shores with tales of a heaven on earth where the soil was fer- tile, life was simple, and sex was plentiful Lagoon Spectacular and guilt-free. While the lingering hype is While there are plenty of slim stretches Diving ...... 31 outdated and no place can live up to being of white-, pink- and black-sand beaches ‘paradise’, French Polynesia is still about as in French Polynesia, they are just pretty Diving, Luxury History dreamy as reality & gets. The trees are still springboards into the real draw: the la- Snorkelling Pampering Archaeologyheavy with fruit the mountains rise as ma goons Most high islands are surrounded & Wildlife- Overwater bungalows were Spirituality has always been Travel with Children ...... 39 Watching created then perfected in paramount to Polynesian French Polynesia. Live la people and the historical Been searching for the vie en bleu while lounging vestiges you’ll À nd in the world’s most intense shade lagoon- or poolside with islands are testament to of aqua? Look no further. exotic cocktails, soaking in this. Stone temples and What’s below the surface tropical Á ower–À lled baths -worthy churches Regions at a Glance ...... 43 is even more spectacular: or getting your muscles are highlights. sharks, coral gardens, soothed with hot volcanic Taputapuatea, Ra’iatea turtles, rays, dolphins, stones. humpback whales, clouds Arguably the most important of À sh... Bora Bora The world capital of ancient Polynesian place of overwater-bungalow bliss and worship in the world (p### ) It’s shark week! Or a full-throttle celebrity magnet Opunohu Valley, Mo’orea more like shark century. This is (p### ) French Polynesia’s fauna-heavy Tumbled remains of archery diving capital (p ###) Taha’a Bora Bora’s quiet platforms, dwellings and temples counterpart oՖ ers glamour and wend up a jungle hill (p ### ) Maupiti A manta ray cleaning luxe minus the hype (p### ) station makes sightings likely, Cathedral & Churches, Gambier but human crowds are rare Mo’orea Chic decadence can be Archipelago In the 1880s, Father Ra’iatea & (p### ) easy to access, kid-friendly and Laval lead islanders to build chock-full of activities (p ### ) coral block churches that seat Huahine Taha’a Bora Bora M Rurutu Spot humpbacks thousands (p### and p### ) through air-clear water or Get your spa treat- breaching near your boat ments in a remote paradise Kamuihei & Tahakia, Nuku Hiva Archaeology 33 Archaeology 333 Resorts 333 (p### ) worthy of an adventure novel Villages of stone rubble shaded (p### ) by grand banyan trees (p ### ) Culture 33 Hiking 33 Diving 3 Mo’orea Dolphins, whales, Diving 33 Diving 33 Hiking 3 stingrays and sharks all star in Rangiroa The Kia Ora lets you Iipona, Hiva Oa Five impressive a particularly stunning lagoon lounge near town or whisks you stone tiki dominate this well- Diving (p### ) to a Crusoe-chic private island preserved site (p ### ) (p### ) Tahiti Whale-watching trips too Gauguin Tahiti’s Gauguin PHRASEBOOKS crowded on Mo’orea? Marine Museum gives a taste of his Ancient Village The Big One Glamorous Life work, but the artist’s spirit lives Stroll the remains You’ll feel an un- Welcome to over- W When to Go Island-by-Islandmammals pass by Tahiti too of Maeva, a seaside avoidable spiritual the-water bungalow There are regularly optimal diving conditions village that was buzz at Marae heaven where throughout the year, except when the trade Guide once the seat Taputapuatea. Once drinks are served wind blows, from June to August, producing From in the Tuamotus to Hiva O in the Marquesas, you’ll be spoilt for choice of royalty on a meeting place with a view and choppy seas. Water temperatures range from a low of 26°C to a high of 29°C on most Just as the individual islands have their dis Huahine. Explore for Polynesians pampering is on islands. You won’t need anything more than a tinct personalities, so too the dive sites hav the waterfront throughout the your tab. Top thin neoprene wetsuit. their own hallmarks. Just take your pick temples then PaciÀ c, this marae dining, luxury All dive sites are mapped in the destination scramble up the (traditional temple) lagoon tours and chapters. Best for CertiÀ cation is still one of the sparkling white hillside to À nd M Tahiti most important sands complete the Mo’orea Tahiti crumbling stone w vestiges in the and well-preserved package. Huahine Although less charismatic than othe bush. ancient temples of Bora Bora French Polynesian islands, Tahiti shouldn’ Every Shade of y b d t ith b t 20 l d its kind. Lost in Time Blue b Slip into island Rare Flower Bora Bora’s sandy- b time in Fare, the The tiare apetahi bottom lagoon h somniferous capital is a delicate reÁ ects the sky in of Huahine. Fishing À ve-petalled so many hues it t boats come in, Á ower resembling a changes the deÀ ni- h À shing boats go woman’s hand that tion of the word Looking for other travel resources? out, women in only grows on the blue. There’s not Á owered clothing Temahani Plateau much coral unless

in Ra’iatea. To see it you head out to buy groceries and, T if you’re lucky, the you’ll have to make the fringing reef, a challenging hike but it’s as safe as cargo ship may be M unloading the to the summit a swimming pool

PAGE UNDERSTAND GET MORE FROM YOUR TRIP 213 TAHITI & FRENCH Learn about the big picture, so you POLYNESIA can make sense of what you see

Tahiti & French population per sq km FRENCH MAINLAND STATE OF POLYNESIA

Polynesia Today ...... 214 ≈ 20 people History ...... 216 Tah iti & French Polynesia Today 2 Environment ...... 226 Cultural Renaissance Culturally, French Polynesia is rediscovering itself. In the last 20 years, the has been reclaimed as a subject now required in LONELYPLANET.COM APPS EBOOKS MAGAZINE schools and as a university-level discipline. Tahitian dance is Á ourish- ing, tattoos have become the norm and ma’a Tahitii (traditional Tahitian Islander Life ...... 229 food) has been transformed into haute cuisine. Even a few pre-Europe- For travel information, Location-based Guidebooks For travel stories, an Tahitian events are being resuscitated, such as the Matari’i i Ni’a in November, marking the beginning of the ‘season of abundance’ – Westerners more pessimistically call this the ‘wet season’. advice, tips & digital guides for the street for your reader inspiration & ideas I slander Life Government Gymnastics French Polynesia in If French Polynesia had a national slogan it might be haere maru (take it hi e technically a part of France, French Polynesia is, for the most chapters slow), words that often fall from the lips of Tahitians to their busy French ation: art, self-governing. Since 2004 the government has been in turmoil as lonelyplanet.com/mobile lonelyplanet.com/ebooks lonelyplanet.com/magazine and Chinese cohabitants. It’s hard not to take it slow out here. With one the main olitical parties battle it out and try to woo members of the road encircling most islands, you’ll often get caught driving behind an mass assembly to Á i -Á o the balance of power. While democratic elections old pick-up truck at 50km/h with no chance of passing; national holidays 00 didh bl t t h tthth seem to close up the shops and banks once every week or so; and getting Popular Culture ...... 233 served in a restaurant can take an eternity. This can be frustrating to any- Go to www.ica.pf one in a hurry, but somehow it all works out: you make it to wherever you (Institut de la were going even if it does take twice as long, the bank can wait till tomor- Comminication row and your food arrives once you are really, really hungry. The Tahitian Audiovisuelle, in French) for people know this and always seem amused by anyone who tries to break podcasts and the rhythm of calm. videos of every- thing cultural in Family & Multiculturalism French Polynesia. STAY IN TOUCH The traditional Tahitian family is an open-armed force that is the country’s Download or buy old films, and backbone. Although modern girls are increasingly less likely to stay home watch music and have baby after baby, an accidental pregnancy is considered more of videos, Tahitian blessing than a hindrance, and babies are passed along to another eager, news, clips of lonelyplanet.com/contact infant-loving family member. Faamu (adopted children) are not thought Tahitian dance of as iՖ erent from blood brothers and sisters, although the birth mother, and much, much n occasionally the father, sometimes remain a peripheral part of the more. hild’s life. Once a child is in a family they are in no way obligated to stay; hi ren move a out to aunties, uncles and grandparents as they wish twitter.com/ Thi f i iit i ttt iii Wh AUSTRALIA Locked Bag 1, Footscray, Victoria 3011 %03 8379 8000, fax 03 8379 8111 lonelyplanet ISBN 978-1-74179-692-6 facebook.com/ 5 2 2 9 9 Paper in this book is certified USA 150 Linden Street, Oakland, CA 94607 against the Forest Stewardship %510 250 6400, toll free 800 275 8555, fax 510 893 8572 lonelyplanet Council™ standards. FSC™ promotes environmentally responsible, socially lonelyplanet.com/ beneficial and economically viable UK Media Centre, 201 Wood Lane, London W12 7TQ 9 781741 796926 management of the world’s forests. %020 8433 1333, fax 020 8702 0112 newsletter

ttahiti-french-polynesia-9-cover.inddahiti-french-polynesia-9-cover.indd 2 224/05/20124/05/2012 3:45:353:45:35 PMPM Every listing is recommended by our authors, and their favourite places are listed first

Look out for these icons: Our author’s top A green or No payment recommendation sustainable option required See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this book.

On the Road

TAHITI ...... 48 Taipivai ...... 183 PAPE’ETE ...... 51 Hatiheu ...... 183 AROUND TAHITI NUI ...... 65 ’UA HUKA ...... 185 West Coast ...... 65 ’UA POU ...... 189 South Coast ...... 68 Hakahau ...... 189 East Coast ...... 71 Hakahetau ...... 191 TAHITI ITI ...... 73 Hakamaii ...... 191 Hohoi ...... 192 MO’OREA ...... 77 HIVA OA ...... 192 Atuona & Around ...... 193 HUAHINE ...... 98 Taaoa ...... 198 RA’IATEA & Puamau ...... 199 TAHA’A ...... 110 Hanapaaoa ...... 199 Hanaiapa ...... 199 RA’IATEA ...... 111 TAHUATA ...... 200 TAHA’A ...... 120 FATU HIVA ...... 201 BORA BORA ...... 126 THE AUSTRALS MAUPITI ...... 143 & THE GAMBIER ARCHIPELAGO . . . . .203 THE TUAMOTUS . . . . 151 THE AUSTRALS...... 204 RANGIROA ...... 153 Rurutu ...... 205 TIKEHAU ...... 162 Tubuai ...... 207 ...... 165 Raivavae ...... 208 FAKARAVA ...... 166 Rimatara ...... 209 ...... 171 THE GAMBIER ARCHIPELAGO ...... 210 ...... 173 ...... 210 THE MARQUESAS ...... 174 NUKU HIVA ...... 177 Taiohae ...... 178 Hakaui Valley ...... 182 Toovii Plateau ...... 182 › Tahiti & French Polynesia 156ºW 152ºW 148ºW

Los Angeles #\

P A C I F I C Rangiroa O C E A N International Date Line Date International The world's third-largest (p153) Tahiti

#\ Sydney 12ºS

Bora Bora Maupiti Over-the-water bungalow Motu (small islet) beaches bliss (p126) Manihi and manta rays (p143) Ahe Rangiroa Mataiva S O U T H P A C I F I C Tikehau O C E A N w a r d L e e I s Bellinghausen l a 16ºS n d s Fakarava Scilly Maupiti Taha'a Mopelia Bora Bora Huahine T Ra'iatea Tetiaroa h PAPE'ETE e Mo'orea Tahiti S Maiao Mehetia o W i n c d w a s i e r d I s l a n d Huahine t y I s Authentic, laid-back l a n d s Polynesian perfection (p98) Teahupoo Watch surfing pros ride Mo'orea the monster wave (p74) High peaks, blue lagoons 20ºS (p77) Papenoo Valley Visit waterfalls in Tahiti's Pape'ete lush interior (p70) The Heiva festival showcases (p51) Rurutu & the Australs Whales, caves and culture T h e (p205) A Rimatara u Rurutu s t r 0 200 km 0 120 miles Tubuai a l Raivavae s 152ºW 148ºW Top ExperiencesExperiences ›

144ºW Motu One 136ºW Hatutu T

h Nuku Hiva

e 'Ua Huka The Marquesas Wild terrain and ancient art M 'Ua Pou (p174) Hiva Oa a r q Tahuata u e Fatu Hiva s a s

12ºS

S O U T H P A C I F I C O C E A N

Di s ap p o i n t me T Nord n t I s h l a n d e s Puka Puka T u a 16ºS m Tauere o Marutea Nord Motutunga Tekokota t Haraiki u s Nengonengo Manuhangi Pinaki

20ºS Du k Anuanuraro e o f G Anuanurunga l ou c e s t e r I s Tenarunga l a n d Tematangi Vahanga s Matureivavao Maria Island S O U T H P A C I F I C The Gambier O C E A N Archipelago Gambier Archipelago Eerie but beautiful church Morane Mangareva relics (p210) Tropic of Capricorn Temoe

144ºW 140ºW 136ºW 24ºS OUR STORY A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their fi rst travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offi ces in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Celeste Brash Coordinating Author; Plan Your Trip, Understand and Survival Guide Celeste fi rst visited French Polynesia in 1991, fell in love with her now husband as well as Poly- nesian culture, and moved to the country in 1995. Her fi rst fi ve years were spent living off fi sh and on a pearl farm on an atoll sans plumbing, telephone and airstrip, and the next 10 years were spent on Tahiti. Now in Portland, Oregon, she often complains of the cold. Her award-winning travel stories have appeared in Travelers’ Tales books, and her travel articles have appeared in publications such as the Los Angeles Times and Islands magazine. She’s written over 30 Lonely Planet guides, but she considers the Tahiti & French Polynesia guide to be her pièce de Read more about Celeste at: résistance. lonelyplanet.com/members/CelesteBrash

Jean-Bernard Carillet Diving, On the Road Paris-based journalist and photographer Jean-Bernard is a diehard Polynesia lover and diving instructor. So far, he has explored 28 islands in the fi ve archipelagos. On this research gig he searched for the most idyllic motu (small islet), the best manta-ray encounters, the most thrilling lagoon tours, the tastiest poisson cru (raw fi sh in milk) dish, the most romantic spots, the most enjoyable hikes and the best-value accommodation. His favourite experiences included following the Hawaiki Nui canoe race by boat and attending the Marquesas Arts Festival on Nuku Hiva. Jean-Bernard has contributed to many Lonely Planet titles and he writes for travel and dive magazines.

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason- 9th edition – Sep 2012 able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about ISBN 978 1 74179 692 6 the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi- © Lonely Planet 2012 Photographs © as indicated 2012 mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

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Itiner- Whether you’ve got six days or 60, these itineraries provide a aries starting point for the trip of a lifetime. Want more inspiration? Head online to lonelyplanet. com/thorntree to chat with other travellers.

SOUTH PACIFIC OCEAN

Bora Bora – •# # É

•# Huahine É

T #– Mo’orea f# h

e É •# #_ S É PAPE’ETE o c #– i e Tahiti t y I s l a n d s

One week A Glimpse of Paradise

From Pape’ete, fl y or boat straight to Mo’orea, and stay for at least two nights. Mo’orea boasts soaring peaks, verdant hillsides and aqua waters, and is considered by many to be the most beautiful isle in the . Cycle around mag- nifi cent Cook’s Bay and Opunohu Bay, explore the island’s archaeological sites or simply soak up the sun and splash around in the lagoon. From Mo’orea, fl y to Bora Bora. Live it up for a night or more (depending on your budget) in an overwater bungalow or partake in a variety of water excursions on the vast, blue lagoon. Dine by candlelight, relax in a spa and look out for celebrities. From Bora Bora, it’s a short fl ight to much more low-key Huahine, where you can end your holiday with two days of complete relaxation and a taste of authentic Polynesian culture. Go diving or snorkelling, take an island tour, and don’t miss trying ma’a Tahiti (traditional-style food) at the restaurant Mauarii. 23

f# Nuku Hiva •# É T h e •# Hiva Oa M a rqu esas É PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN

#– T h e

•# #– T É Rangiroa u

É a

m

– # o t Bora Bora •# u •# É s

Ra’iatea Tahiti ITINERARIES

T #_ h #– É e S oci PAPE’ETE ety Isla nds

SOUTH PACIFIC OCEAN

Two weeks or more Polynesian Passage

Explore French Polynesia’s myriad of welcoming cultures as well as its natural beauty. Start with a day or more on Tahiti, where you can take an island tour or hire a car to explore Marché de Pape’ete (Pape’ete Market) and the waterfalls, roadside caves and hidden beaches around the island. At night, catch a dance performance at one of the resorts or (if it’s a Friday or Saturday) go out for a wild night in Pape’ete. Next get on a plane to Ra’iatea to see the impressive Marae Taputapuatea, one of the most important spiritual sites of ancient Polynesia and hike up the Temehani Plateau in search of the tiare apetahi, one of the world’s rarest fl owers. Dive or snorkel the lagoon and be sure to take a picnic tour out to one of the island’s fringing white-sand islets or kayak up Faaroa River, the only navigable river in French Polynesia. From here, take a short fl ight to Bora Bora to snorkel the lagoon, swoon at the island’s square silhouette and live la vida jet set for a day or two. Then take a fl ight to Rangiroa, the largest coral atoll in the country. Dive with sharks, live in your swimsuit and quench your thirst with coconuts. Don’t miss a tour of the immense lagoon to see pink-sand beaches and the surreally beautiful Lagon Bleu (Blue Lagoon), a lagoon within a lagoon. At sunset, watch dolphins frolic in Tiputa Pass. Change cultures entirely when you fl y on to the Marquesas (via Tahiti). Travelling here is like stepping back in time. You’ll start in Nuku Hiva, where you can hike across windswept ridges into ancient volcanic craters before checking out the island’s array of eerie archaeo- logical sites, including Hikokua, Kamuihei and Tahakia. Follow Gauguin’s trail to Hiva Oa to see the artist’s tomb at Calvaire Cemetery and visit the Espace Cuturel . Don’t miss the giant stone tiki (sacred statues) at Iipona and several other ancient sites on the island. Alternatively, you could visit all of the by taking the Aranui cargo ship for one of the world’s most unique cruises focusing on culture and archaeology. 24 JEAN-BERNARD CARILLET/LONELY PLANET IMAGES © PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN ITINERARIES

» (above) Stilt bungalows over the

PAUL KENNEDY/LONELY PLANET IMAGES © waters of Bora Bora (p126) » (left) Cyclists on Mo’orea (p77) ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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