’m happiest eating Iin the summer, not only for what these plentiful months bring to the markets and my garden, but also because warm weather lets me set my dinner table outdoors. Because warm days require relief from the muggy discomforts of a hot kitchen, chilled poached fish is a part of my summer repertoire. Light yet fully satisfying, it can be prepared with little time and fuss. With a few simple garnishes, fish poached whole or in slices adapts deliciously to meals for just a few people or menus for larger get-togethers and festive occasions. Leftover poached fish also lends itself to any number of summer improvisations.

RICH, FULL-FLAVORED SALMON IS A GOOD CHOICE FOR POACHING Of all the fish available for poaching, salmon is the classic choice not only for its appealing color, but also because the large and even “grain” of its flesh gives it a superb texture. The rich oils contained within salmon help to keep the fish moist. Salmon is particularly suitable to being served slightly chilled; its assertive flavor compensates for the muting effects of cooler temperatures. Nevertheless, you’ll Salmon with Summer Vegetables offers relief from the kitchen on a hot summer night. The flavor of the enjoy salmon’s fullest flavor if you serve the salmon is enhanced if you poach it well ahead of time and store it in the cold court bouillon. fish just below room temperature. If possible, buy whole, unscaled salmon and poach it with the scales on. Scales pro- vide an additional layer of protection and help keep the fish moist. Scales that are smooth and intact are also a sign that the Poaching for salmon has not been treated roughly.

USE GENTLE HEAT AND AN AROMATIC LIQUID Flavorful Keep in mind that poaching means cook- ing not at a boil or even a simmer, but at a point just below a simmer, around 180°F. With a little experience, you will be able to Cold Salmon recognize this temperature level readily from the appearance of imminent move- ment of the court bouillon and the lazy Keeping fish moist and delicious is easy evaporation of the liquid at the surface. A court bouillon adds flavor. Perhaps with a few simple techniques the best way to prepare salmon that’s to be eaten chilled is in a court bouillon (pro- nounced koor boo-YAHN). The term comes from the French: court means short, BY PAUL BERTOLLI and bouillon is derived from the verb “to boil.” Court bouillon is “short” because it’s made primarily of vegetables and herbs,

36 FINE COOKING Copyright © 1995 - 2007 The Taunton Press which means it cooks much more quickly than stocks that are built from meat or poultry. Court bouillon is most often used as a poaching liquid for fish or shellfish, and sometimes for poultry or brains. Traditional recipes call for a fairly stan- dard combination of ingredients—water, onion, carrot, thyme, bay leaf, and vinegar or wine (red or white, depending on what is to be cooked) are constants. A court bouillon destined for poaching fish should always contain a good amount of salt; without it, the fish will taste bland. Add about two tablespoons salt (I use kosher flaked salt) per quart of water. If you choose not to measure your ingredients each time, try at least to adjust the amount of salt so that the liquid is as salty as sea water. Add wine or vinegar only after the vegetables have cooked in the hot liquid for 12 to 15 minutes—the acidity of both of these ingredients inhibits the vegetables from cooking and releasing their flavor completely. Of course, fish is perfectly fine if poached in salt water alone. The sim- plest addition is bay leaf, which I believe improves the flavor of any poached fish. Don’t be shy with your seasonings. No matter how many aromatic ingredi- ents you add, a court bouillon has only a soft influence on what’s being cooked in it, so add plenty of herbs and vegetables. You can make a court bouillon that com- plements and enhances the flavor of whatever fish you’re cooking—just use your imagination. • Fennel is particularly harmonious with fish. I’m lucky enough to have wild fennel growing near my house, but if wild fennel Photo: Robert Marsala Give your fish a handle for easy lifting in and out of the pot. After wrapping the fish in cheesecloth, tie a length of string just below the gill cover, at the tail, and in the middle of the fish. Loop another Herbs, aromatic vegetables, and wine are the makings of a rich-tasting court bouillon. Wrapping a whole piece of string through each of these ties, leaving fish in cheesecloth protects the delicate flesh but lets the flavors in. enough slack to act as a handle.

AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 1995 37 Copyright © 1995 - 2007 The Taunton Press isn’t available, use the tough outer stalks gradually, much of its flavor would escape Whole Poached Salmon and feathery tops of a fennel bulb. into the surrounding liquid. Adding the with Sauce Verte • Celery tops are welcome, as are the fish to hot court bouillon helps to con- You can use smaller Coho salmon to make green parts of leeks or scallions. centrate inside the slice all the flavor this dish, if you like; they usually weigh • I sometimes add parsley or other soft contained within it. about three pounds. Just be sure to adjust herbs, such as basil or tarragon, but I don’t An overnight soak allows the fish to the amount of the court bouillon and the recommend chervil: its meek flavor would absorb the full flavor of the court bouil- sauce verte as well. Serves 12 to 15. be lost in court bouillon. Avoid adding lon. Traditionally, recipes for poaching 1 whole unscaled salmon (about 6 lb.), strong herbs, such as rosemary or sage: whole fish call for preparing the court wrapped in cheesecloth and tied with string they can overpower the taste of the fish. bouillon ahead of time and allowing it to 12 qt. water 11⁄2 cups kosher salt The one exception is oregano, which is cool before immersing the fish. My own 3 carrots (1⁄2 lb. total), sliced thin particularly good with striped sea bass. method differs from tradition; I simply 1 large leek (about 1⁄2 lb.), sliced thin • Lemongrass has an exceptional aroma salt the cool water, add the raw aromatics 6 bay leaves 1 bunch thyme when infused in hot liquids and is very and the fish, and slowly bring it all up to 1 bottle dry white wine effective in penetrating fish, as are spear- poaching temperature. Since whole fish FOR THE SAUCE VERTE: mint and lemon thyme. is less permeable than sliced, loss of fla- 1 bunch fresh spinach (about 5 oz.), trimmed • Experiment with more exotic flavors, vor is not a concern. More important, af- and washed such as ginger or coriander. ter cooking, whole fish is returned to the 2 egg yolks cooled court bouillon and allowed to 2 cups canola or vegetable oil 11⁄2 tsp. kosher salt ADD SLICED FISH TO HOT LIQUID; stand overnight. During this period, the 11⁄2 tsp. Champagne vinegar BEGIN WHOLE FISH IN COLD fish has a chance to rest in its own re- Fresh fine-ground black pepper The technique for poaching fish differs leased juices, as well as to absorb more 2 Tbs. minced chives 1 Tbs. minced fresh tarragon or basil depending on whether it is whole or thoroughly the aromas of the court bouil- 1 Tbs. minced parsley sliced. Obviously, slices of fish cook lon. Classic French cookbooks, such as 2 Tbs. capers, drained and chopped much more rapidly than the whole spec- Escoffier’s, warn that immersion in boil- To poach the salmon—Choose a pot big imen. Because of the shorter exposure to ing court bouillon may cause a rapid enough to hold the fish and fit it with a rack. the court bouillon, the broth for cooking shrinking and bursting of the flesh. You Set the salmon on the rack. Add the water, sliced fish should be simmered before won’t have this problem with salmon; salt, vegetables, and herbs. Do not add the adding the fish so that the maximum nevertheless, keep this in mind when wine. Over medium heat, bring the court amount of flavor has been released from poaching more delicate types of fish. bouillon to just below simmering (180°F). the vegetables and herbs. To do this, A whole fish is cooked when it reaches Keep it at this temperature until the salmon reaches 130° at its thickest point, about cook the vegetables in a little oil or butter 130° at its thickest point. The best way to 30 min. Transfer the salmon to a large over medium heat until they’re soft be- test the fish without a lot of poking and plate or tray. Add the wine to the court fore moistening them with water. Then prodding is to use an instant-read ther- bouillon and let cool to tepid. Return the add the herbs—hardy ones at the start, mometer. The fish should be removed salmon to the cooled court bouillon and more delicate ones (that would other- right away to avoid overcooking. Now is refrigerate overnight. wise lose their bright scent) just before when I add the wine to the broth. This To make the sauce verte—In a large pot of you add the fish. After the court bouil- keeps the wine much fresher tasting and boiling water, cook the spinach for 2 min. lon has developed a rich flavor, drop the reduces the temperature of the court Drain and rinse the spinach with cold water. sliced fish into the hot broth. If the sliced bouillon, bringing it closer to the point Squeeze the leaves to remove as much water as possible and chop the spinach fish is put into cool broth and heated when the fish may be replaced and stored. very fine. A whole salmon needs careful dressing

Make a shallow incision around the gill cover, Lift away the skin, taking care not to pull off The grayish brown flesh just beneath the skin 1just in front of the tail, and all along the 2 any of the flesh. Leave the skin intact on the 3 is perfectly edible, but the salmon will look dorsal line from tail to head. Pull away any fins. underside, but trim any ragged edges. more appetizing without it. Gently scrape it away. Photos this page: Robert Marsala

38 FINE COOKING Copyright © 1995 - 2007 The Taunton Press Remove the bones all at once after serving one side of the fish by simply lifting from the tail. Check the bottom fillet for any small bones you might have missed.

Salmon with Summer Vegetables Tossing the vegetables with salt and leaving them to stand until they release their water concentrates their flavors. Serves four to six.

FOR THE COURT BOUILLON: 41⁄2 tsp. olive oil 1 small onion, sliced 1 large carrot, sliced 1 rib celery, with leaves, sliced 1 small bunch fresh thyme 2 bay leaves 2 qt. water 1⁄4 cup kosher salt 2 cups dry white wine 1 1 ⁄4 lb. salmon fillet from the meaty head section of the fish, (about 1 inch thick at its thickest part), skinned, bones pulled FOR THE VEGETABLES: 4 medium ripe tomatoes, cut in wedges 2 fresh Anaheim chile peppers, cored, seeded, Whole poached salmon makes a striking presentation. For the most flavorful fish, serve the salmon and sliced thin slightly cool rather than cold, straight from the refrigerator. 1⁄2 large red bell pepper, cored, seeded, and sliced thin 1 large cucumber, peeled, seeded, and sliced Put the egg yolks in a 1-qt. bowl and whisk Remove the fish from the cold court bouil- thin to combine. Whisk in the oil very slowly in lon and set it on a large plate or tray. Re- 4 scallions, white part only, minced droplets, until the mixture begins to thicken. move the cheesecloth and reserve it with 1 small shallot, sliced thin Add the remaining oil in a thin stream until the court bouillon. Remove the skin (see 1 medium bulb fennel, cored and sliced thin it’s well incorporated into the yolks. Add the instructions opposite). You may do this lengthwise 1 Tbs. kosher salt salt, vinegar, and pepper to taste. Whisk in well ahead of time. If so, moisten the the spinach, herbs, and capers. The sauce cheesecloth with the court bouillon and FOR THE DRESSING: should be soft but firm enough to hold its cover the fish. Discard the court bouillon. 2 cloves garlic 12 anchovy fillets shape on the plate. If it’s too thick, whisk To serve, transfer the salmon to a large Juice of 1 lemon in water, 1 Tbs. at a time, until thinned. Re- platter. Garnish with sprigs of watercress 2 Tbs. red-wine vinegar 1 frigerate the sauce verte at least 1 hour so (or some of the same herbs used in the ⁄2 cup extra-virgin olive oil

Photos except where noted: Ellen Silverman the flavors can develop. sauce verte) and slices of lemon. (Ingredient list continues)

AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 1995 39 Copyright © 1995 - 2007 The Taunton Press Evenly cut slices ensure evenly cooked fish. These bias-cut slices cook in only two minutes. Sliced Salmon Salad Poaching in the simplest of bouillons—salted water with bay leaf—accents the taste of the fish but does nothing to alter its essential flavor. Serves four.

1 salmon fillet, about 1 lb. 1 qt. water 2 Tbs. kosher salt 2 bay leaves FOR THE TOMATO-OLIVE GARNISH: 4 small ripe tomatoes (about 3⁄4 lb. total), peeled, seeded, and diced 1⁄2 cup pitted niçoise or other black olives 1 small shallot, minced 2 tsp. red-wine vinegar or lemon juice 2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil Salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 Tbs. chopped fresh parsley FOR THE WATERCRESS SALAD: 2 bunches fresh, tender watercress (about 10 oz.) Fresh, ripe tomatoes and niçoise olives bring a pleasing acidity to this Sliced Salmon Salad, countering 1 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil 1 tsp. fresh lemon juice the richness of the fish. Blanched watercress dressed with lemon and olive oil is surprisingly delicious. To poach the fish—Cut the fillet in half FOR GARNISH AND PRESENTATION: ate. Remove from the refrigerator about lengthwise to yield two roughly rectangular 12 to 15 fresh basil leaves 1 1 ⁄2 hours before serving for the best flavor. pieces about 6 inches long and 21⁄2 inches Freshly ground black pepper 4 handfuls arugula or mesclun salad To prepare the vegetables—In a large wide. Remove any pin bones. Turn the fish 2 eggs, covered with cold water, brought to bowl, mix the vegetables and salt. Cover so that the long side is in front of you and a boil, covered with a lid, removed from and let stand at room temperature for cut 3⁄8-inch-thick slices on the bias. 1 the heat and left to stand for 8 min.; 1 ⁄2 hours. Transfer to a colander and drain In a large frying pan, bring the water, salt, cooled under cold water, peeled, and cut well, pressing down slightly to extract as into wedges and bay leaves to a boil over high heat. Add much water as possible. Cover the vege- the fish and poach for 2 min. Remove with a To poach the fish—In a heavy-based pan, tables and refrigerate until ready to use. slotted spatula and set it on a plate lined with warm the olive oil over medium-high heat. To make the dressing—With a mortar and paper towels. Let stand at room temperature. Add the onion, carrot, celery, thyme, and bay pestle, pound the garlic. Add the anchovies To make the tomato-olive garnish—Com- leaves; cook until they release their perfume, and continue pounding until reduced to a bine the tomatoes, olives, shallot, vinegar, 8 to 10 min. Add the water and salt, bring to paste. (Alternatively, mince the garlic and and olive oil. Season to taste with salt and a boil, reduce to a simmer, and cook 12 to anchovies with a knife and use the side of pepper. Stir in the chopped parsley. 15 min. Add the wine. Bring the court bouil- the blade to smash them into a paste.) Trans- lon just below the simmering point (180°F), fer the paste to a small bowl, add the lemon To make the watercress salad—In a large and add the salmon. The fish should be en- juice and vinegar, and whisk in the oil. pot of boiling water, blanch the watercress. tirely submerged; if not, add a little more Refresh it under cold water and pat dry. Toss water. Poach the fish for about 10 min. and To garnish and serve—Tear the basil leaves with the olive oil and lemon juice and sea- then remove it from the court bouillon. Cut and add them to the salted vegetables. Add son to taste with more salt and pepper. about half the dressing to these vegetables, a slit in the salmon at its thickest point—it On a platter or plates, arrange a bed of water- should be moist and a deep pink, but not season to taste with pepper, and mix well. Break the salmon into chunks and season cress, lay the salmon on top, and spoon the rare. Bear in mind that the salmon will con- tomato-olive mixture over all. tinue to cook slightly even after it has been with about 2 Tbs. of the dressing. Dress the removed from the bouillon. Transfer the arugula or mesclun salad with what remains. salmon to a plate to cool. If time permits, On a large platter, arrange the vegetables Paul Bertolli is the chef/co-owner of Oliveto poach the salmon several hours ahead, return and top with the fish. Put the greens around Restaurant in Berkeley, California, and a

it to the cooled court bouillon, and refriger- the vegetables and garnish with the eggs. contributing editor to Fine Cooking. • Photo at top right: Robert Marsala

40 FINE COOKING Copyright © 1995 - 2007 The Taunton Press