HELP PROTECT THE Dffers excellent opportunities. > At the northern edge of the continent, close to the Animals: The Challenge of Life in the North the snow flies. Marsh hawks and short-eared owls Arctic Circle, stands the highest mountain in North McKinley's vast wilderness permits a spectacular array swoop low over the tundra in pursuit of voles, ground PARK AND YOURSELF to observe and photograph America. A massive monument to the forces squirrels, and small birds. The golden eagle soars high To preserve the park and to bears and other wildlife of wildlife to live together in a balanced, natural system. from the road. The zone is of nature, Mount McKinley reigns over an immense Caribou still follow ancient migration patterns as overhead looking for small-mammal prey. The lynx make your visit as safe as possible, please follow these strictly off limits for hiking. wilderness park where Dall sheep, caribou, grizzly, lynx, hunts the snowshoe hare, its year-round major they move in herds of hundreds or more over open Were the day clear I could see Mount McKinley from regulations: Visitors who get out of their moose, and wolf dwell together in a balanced tundra and through mountain passes. Sure-footed Dall source of food. the window. As I picture in my mind its stupendous vehicles to view the animals natural system. sheep survey the rugged country from high, rocky Hiking Permits. A back- must remain on the road. Winter brings severe challenges to subarctic com­ height, I compare it to our science. Many have slopes, while moose browse below in willow thickets country use permit for over­ Other protection zones are LU munities. Temperatures become frigid, plant growth assailed its flanks; some have proclaimed untruths near the spruce forest. In fall or early winter, all three night camping must be established temporarily as ceases, and food is scarce. Grizzly bears meet the "The High One" of the Alaska Range species enter the rut, and the mature males engage about it; some have climbed by great effort well up obtained and then returned the need arises. Check at problem by fattening up in summer and sleeping most when the trip is complete. the Visitor Orientation Cen­ Small wonder that the Indians of Alaska called Mount in energy-draining battles for the right to breed the slopes; a very few, the best by natural selection, McKinley Denali—"The High One." No other of the winter. Occasionally a grizzly stirs from its Permits are issued at the ter or any ranger station to with adult females. have reached the summit and there attained the broad mountain in the world, not even in the Himalayas, deep slumber; but the ground squirrel, a true hibernator, Visitor Orientation Center, learn the locations, and Wolves roam huge territories in search of weakened stays curled up with its body functions at a virtual vision denied those at lower altitudes. As for me, Eielson Visitor Center, and please do not enter. rises so dramatically above its own base and stands in at any ranger station during such lofty isolation over its neighbors. McKinley's caribou, moose, or sheep that may provide their standstill. Beavers and red squirrels subsist on cached I am satisfied to have been able to traverse the the summer season. In Limits on Fishing. No fish­ summit, crowned by twin peaks, soars above the next meal. Ravens, magpies, and gray jays quickly foods. The weasel, ptarmigan, and snowshoe hare turn great lowland to the base and to climb the foothills. winter they must be ob­ ing licenses are required. Z surrounding landscape to a height of 4,800 meters clean up any scraps left over from a kill. The grizzly white and continue their struggle for survival above tained at park headquarters. Limits for each person per bear will feed on any carcass it comes across during its ground under extreme conditions. A stove is recommended for day: lake trout (2 fish), (16,000 feet), and above sea level to a height of 6,194 —Alfred Hulse Brooks meters (20,320 feet). ambles along a river bar or over the open tundra. backpacking; do not bury grayling and other fish (10 But its dietary staples are grass, roots, blueberries, Most birds escape the northern winter by flying south. or leave behind any garbage fish or 10 pounds and 1 McKinley is by far the most impressive feature of the peavine, and ground squirrels that it digs from their The long-tailed jaeger winters in Japan, the golden or trash. Everything packed fish). Alaska Range, a curved chain of mountains that plover in Hawaii, the wheatear and arctic warbler in Clouds shroud McKinley, high above Wonder Lake- in must be packed out; litter burrows. in the back country destroys Hunting Prohibited. Fire­ stretches 930 kilometers (580 miles) across the lower Asia. The arctic tern may travel all the way to arms must be surrendered Smaller animals also pursue their livelihood with a Antarctica. the wilderness values of the third of Alaska. Though most of the peaks are less park for everyone. or made inoperative upon than half McKinley's height, the range acts as a natural diligence that makes up for their size. Beavers cut trees entering the park. The hunt­ The fragile web of McKinley's interdependent wildlife land barrier between Anchorage on the coastal and build dams and lodges. The red squirrel caches ing ban is strictly enforced. includes 37 mammals and about 130 birds. Extreme lowlands and Alaska's interior to the north. West of spruce cones for the winter. The pika and singing vole Vehicles at Campsites. cold prevents most cold-blooded land vertebrates from Only one vehicle is per­ Controlling Pets. Pets and the park the range forms a drainage divide for rivers "cure hay," carefully laying vegetation in loose piles living in the park; but one amphibian, the wood frog, mitted at each registered wildlife don't mix. Pets must flowing west to the Bering Sea or south to the Gulf in the underground nests to which they will retreat once be leashed or under restraint makes its home here. campsite. of Alaska. at all times. They are not Safe Driving. The park permitted with you on trails McKinley's geology features a portion of the Denali road was built for scenic or in the back country. Fault System, the largest crustal break in North America, enjoyment and not for high that stretches for 2,100 kilometers (1,300 miles), speed. Maximum speed is WRITING FOR 56 kilometers per hour INFORMATION across the full width of the State of Alaska. Associated (35 mph) and 40 kilometers with the Alaska Range, the fault passes through the Further information on (25 mph) for trucks and campground reservations, park, separating the most ancient rocks in Alaska from buses except where lower the park transportation J? those of much younger age. Events transpiring between limits are posted. Fast driv­ system, and other details these extremes have created a beautiful land with ing is dangerous to you and useful in planning your trip contrasting wide, low plains, and dark, somber moun­ the wildlife you have come can be obtained by writing tains, brightly colored peaks, and sheer granite domes. to see. to: Superintendent, Mount McKinley National Park, Surprisingly, much of Alaska north of the park never Other Vehicles and Boats. P.O. Box 9, McKinley Park, D Trail bikes and motorcycles was covered by the last continental ice sheet, which AK 99755. A National Park must not leave the park retreated 10,000-14,000 years ago. The park lies at the Service information office is road. Snowmobiles are per­ located at 334 West Fifth northern limit of this ice age glaciation, which covered Men and Mount McKinley mitted only along the Ave., Suite 250, Anchorage, most of the northern hemisphere. From the park shoulders of Alaska High­ On January 24, 1897, with national attention focused AK 99501. O road you can see numerous ice flows still radiating way 3 through the park. from the high peaks of the Alaska Range, where extreme on the Alaskan gold rush, a New York newspaper Off-road use of snowmobiles A price list of maps and temperatures keep them refrigerated. The snout of carried a startling story. The author, a gold prospector is prohibited. Motor- booklets about park animals, Muldrow Glacier, 56 kilometers (35 miles) long, in Alaska, had traveled inland from Cook Inlet, powered boats are not plants, geology, and hiking lies within 1 kilometer (about 0.6 mile) of the park there to discover a great mountain higher than any permitted on any park may be obtained by writing road. Silt-laden streams that flow from these glaciers he had ever seen before. The experienced mountain to the Alaska National man, William A. Dickey, was confident he had gazed Parks and Monuments form wide gravel bars that serve as natural pathways Natural Features. The upon the highest peak in North America. Association, McKinley Park, into the wilderness. park was established to AK 99755. The Four Seasons . . . it compelled our unbounded admiration, Dickey protect a natural system. SPRING ... it begins with the first leaves on woody Destroying, defacing, or We're Joining the Metric A Land of Little Sticks and Tiny Flowers plants, as late as the middle of June. Glacier-fed wrote; . . . never before had we seen anything to collecting plants, rocks, and World Only plants that have adapted to long, bitterly cold streams are swollen with the new run-off, and snow compare with this mountain. other features is prohibited. The National Park Service is winters can survive in this subarctic wilderness. introducing metric measure­ still clings in patches at lower elevations. A feeling of Dickey's article would set others on a course north­ ceding, capturing, molest- Large areas of the park are locked in deep beds of g, or killing any animal is ments in its publications to desert spaciousness pervades the scene. ward, not for gold but to confirm the report of • permafrost—ground that has been frozen for thousands prohibited. help Americans, become America's grand rival to Mount Everest. The mountain acquainted with the metric of years. Only a few inches of topsoil thaw each SUMMER ... the landscape in June and July is had long been known to Alaskan Indians by its name, Wildlife Protection Zones. system and to make inter­ summer, enough to support life; and limited sun for clothed in endless varieties of color and flooded with Denali, "the great one." Soon most of the world The Sable Pass wildlife pretation more meaningful most of the year stunts the growth of most plants and sunlight up to 22 hours a day. Twilight lasts until dawn. would be calling it by the name Dickey gave it after protection zone is prime for park visitors from other Alaskan mosquitoes plague hikers and animals alike. nations. gives them little time for reproduction. he returned from the wilderness and heard of grizzly bear habitat and Taiga, "the land of little sticks," is a term of Russian AUTUMN ... it is late August or September. William McKinley's nomination to the presidency. origin that vividly describes the scant growth of trees Mammals appear in new winter coats and many bull It has been said, although some challenged the state­ near the Arctic Circle. Much of the taiga in the park moose and caribou show off newly polished antlers. ment, that Dickey had been forced to travel with several lies in relatively narrow strips that follow the winding Aspen, birch, and poplar turn golden; dwarf birch, "free silver men" and was reacting to their peevish path of rivers through the park. Sometimes water- blueberry, and bearberry change to bright red, and arguments when he named the mountain after the saturated surface soils slip downslope over the under­ the tundra becomes a vast, varicolored carpet. 19th century's leading advocate of the gold standard. lying permafrost and the taiga takes on the comic WINTER ... the long eight months are critical for appearance of a "drunken forest." A brief 20 years later, through the exploits of most animals, and many perish. By January the several energetic men, Mount McKinley would White and black spruce are most common in the taiga, land is nearly deserted by the sun and brutalized by capture enough public admiration to be established as interspersed with quaking aspen, paper birch, and extreme temperatures, ranging from —45°C (50°F below one of the nation's largest national parks. In 1902 balsam poplar. Pure stands of deciduous trees occur zero) to 10°C (50°F). Daylight, a brief 6 to 7 hours, Alfred H. Brooks and D. L. Raeburn of the U.S. along streamside gravel bars or where soils have been may be followed by the Northern Lights, a dancing Geological Survey studied the geology of the Alaska disturbed by fire and other causes. Frequently the display of pale greens and faint red glows across Range. Mount McKinley was placed on the map. woods are carpeted with a thick, springy mat of mosses the night sky. And Brooks, for whom the Brooks Range in far and lichens. The more open areas are filled with north Alaska was named, became the first white man shrubs such as dwarf birch, blueberry, and several known to have set foot upon its slopes. The next year species of willow. Dr. Frederick A. Cook contributed new geographic knowledge of the area by leading a daring trip Timberline, the limit of tree growth, occurs at about completely around Mount McKinley. 823 meters (2,700 feet) in McKinley park, much lower in elevation than it does in warmer mountain regions to Not long afterwards, Charles Sheldon, a noted con­ the south. On the wind-swept slopes above timberline, servationist, arrived on McKinley's slopes to study Dall the taiga gives way to the tundra—a fascinating sheep and other wildlife. Sheldon was a member world of dwarfed shrubs and miniature wildflowers of the Boone and Crockett Club of New York, which adapted to the short growing season and the thin began as a hunting organization and later had broadened crust of life-giving topsoil. The tundra habitat is of two its efforts to include wildlife conservation. The wilder­ main types, although there are many gradations ness wonders displayed within sight of the mountain between the two. convinced him that the area should be protected, and Sheldon became the prime figure in efforts to Moist tundra vegetation generally grows at the lower make it a national park. mountain elevations in flatter, poorly drained areas A healthy moose can stand off a pack of wolves where glacial runoff, snowmelt, rain and ground thaw In 1910 a party of four Alaskan sourdoughs pioneered with its powerful front legs. collect in many scattered ponds. Moist tundra varies the Muldrow Glacier route up the mountain, and two, in appearance and composition. In some areas sedges William Taylor and Pete Anderson, made it to the top grow in compacted tufts, and tussocks of cotton grass, of the lower north peak at 5,934 meters (19,470 feet). ANIMALS: KEEP YOUR • Do not walk toward with roots intertwined, are present. In other places, The south peak, the true summit, was finally con­ DISTANCE bears, moose, or any Snowy white is McKinley's abiding hue. It is there animals. They think you dwarfed shrubs, especially willows and birches, in bright patches of snow, where caribou find relie; quered in 1913 by Archdeacon Hudson Stuck, Walter Bear, moose, and other wild animals are unpredictable mean harm. predominate. from pestering warble flies and nostril flies. And Harper, Robert G. Tatum, and Harry Karstens, who in the winter, the ptarmigan dons a white coat to and potentially dangerous. « Never try to feed any later served as superintendent of the park. Both teams They are always dangerous wild animal. Plants of the dry (alpine) tundra live scattered among match the relentless snows. The bird disappears into the tundra grasses in summer, its camouflage reversed used sled dogs on the first phases of their climbs. when protecting themselves, • Photograph wild ani­ the barren rocks of the higher elevations, and upward to to brownish. Dall sheep, the only while wild sheep their young, and their mals using a telephoto regions of perpetual ice. Here, the tiny plants of the in the world, bound from ledge to ledge with an Meanwhile Sheldon's promotion of the park idea territories. Take the follow- lens. Trying to get close highlands cling precariously to the ground, spreading incredible speed and agility. Among the many wild- in the Congress had attracted valuable allies who wanted "ig precautions: because you don't have outward like a mat, to soak up daylight. White flowers that flourish in the tundra is the Narcissus- to promote travel to Alaska. But it was the provision • Make noise when you enough lens power will flowered Anemone, a small perennial with white-petaled calling for the protection of McKinley's wildlife that hike. Bears are especially only disturb the animal flowered dryas, dwarf fireweed, moss campion, dwarf blossoms at the ends of long hairy stems. Lying on dangerous when sur­ and endanger yourself. Administration rhododendron, and forget-me-not—the Alaska State the ground you can see a fascinating little world eventually cleared the way for passage of the bill. . Mount McKiney National Park is administered by flower—all dot the rocky, well-drained landscape on a scale quite different from the massiveness of The act creating Mount McKinley National Park was prised. By announcing • Keep your campsite and your presence and letting the National P»ki6eT*ice, U.S^jDepartment of the in a stunning display of delicate blossoms. things as you hike into the white mountains far away. signed by President Wilson in February 1917. your equipment clean. All Interior. *A% the Nation's prm&paUconservation agency, bears know where you are, food should be sealed in you give them a chance to containers so odors will the Depatrtrhent of the Interior b*s rtasic rosponsiS. ^ The wet (arctic) tundra characteristic of Alaska's retreat. bilities to pjjjptecii aha" conserVeyour lancf and vtjatreivT north slope, where an unbroken bed of permafrost pre­ not attract any animals. energy^nd TT^n&afc. fishrand wildlife* park and vents ground drainage on the flatlands, is not found recreition areas) arjjSPfor the wise-use oj«llithas| , in the park. resources. The Department also has a major responsi** bility for AAsrican kidiaftreshrvatiorTce^rmunities arid for peoMs whodive in Island Territories under i U.S. admiration.; A % A • * National Pari? Service , «* « U.S. DEPARTMENT OP THE INTERIOR •SGPO: 1974-543-507/57 '• -WL ' v«t -. BEGINNING YOUR you will be allowed to drive McKINLEY ADVENTURE your own vehicle just to the You probably will approach campsite. Once there you Mount McKinley's wilder­ must hike or use the free ness realm either from public transportation system Fairbanks, 193 kilometers to get to other points of (1 20 miles) away to the interest in the park. (See north or from Anchorage, section on What to do in the 385 kilometers (240 miles) Park.) away to the south on Cook Inlet. Highway Alaska 3 is Food, Supplies, and open all year, and buses run Lodging. From late spring regularly from both cities. until early autumn, the park concessioner provides lodg­ The Alaska Railroad provides ing, food service, souvenirs, passenger and freight ser­ groceries, camper supplies, vice to the park; 8 hours gasoline and minor auto­ from Anchorage, and 4 mobile repairs. Services are hours from Fairbanks. For near the headquarters- information write to Alaska entrance area; after you leave Railroad, Traffic Division, the entrance area for the P.O. Box 7-211 1, park interior, gasoline and Anchorage, AK 99510. food service are not available.

Registering for Campsites. For detailed information If you plan to camp in the about concessioner services, park you must choose a write to Mount McKinley campsite and then register National Park Company, for it at the Visitor Orienta­ McKinley Park, AK 99755. tion Center in the head­ quarters-entrance area. Camping Gear. Camping Campsites at Riley Creek, gear should include a gaso­ Morino, and Savage River line or propane stove be­ campgrounds are available cause firewood is unavail­ on a first-come, first-served able, a tent or waterproof basis; but you still must shelter because of frequent register when you first ar­ rains, and rain gear for rive in the park. The camp­ everyone. To receive per­ sites at Sanctuary River, sonal mail while you are Teklanika River, Igloo Creek, here, have it addressed in and Wonder Lake camp­ care of General Delivery, grounds are for use by McKinley Park, AK 99755. reservation only. Reserva­ What to Bring. Typical tions can be made at the summer weather is cool, Visitor Orientation Center if wet, and windy. To be com­ campsites are available when fortable you should bring you arrive; or they will be clothing for temperatures accepted in advance by that range from 5°C (40°F) writing to the Superintend­ to 25°C (80°F). Rain gear, ent, Mount McKinley Na­ a light coat, sturdy walking tional Park, P.O. Box 9, shoes or boots, and insect McKinley Park, AK 99755, repellent are essential. oT you ThaV poWYe. rVeSBTia-- Binoculars are valuable for tions will be accepted after viewing wildlife and moun­ April 15. tains. A telephoto lens helps After you have registered. with wildlife photography.

WATER © CAMPSITE TOILET o SUPPLY c CO CO c c 'in UJ =1 CAMPGROUND CO E o o CO CO 0) to cj O. .c CO X) E CO c E (A a a CO CO CO '5 sec D CO c- > c- m O LL. CX * Riley Creek .16 102 • • • • •

* Morino 1.6 10 • •

'Savage River 19.2 24 • • • • • Santuary River 35 7 • • • • • •

Teklanika River 46.4 35 • • • • •

Igloo Creek 52.8 7 • • • •

Wonder Lake 136 23 • • • 1 First-come, first-served, following registration

WHAT TO DO IN THE tures, plants, and animals. PARK Air Tours. Aircraft can be Detailed information and chartered for geologic, wild­ literature about the park life, and scenic tours of the may be obtained at the park. Arrangements can be Visitor Orientation Center; made at the depot near the visitors should make this their first stop soon after airstrip. arriving, and campers must Hiking in the Park. Hikers register here for a campsite. will discover exciting terrain A current schedule of visitor for both short family hikes activities is posted at the and for long-range over­ center, the hotel, or the park night trips, even though the administration office. Activi­ park has few established ties at the major visitor trails. Across this open areas include walks led by tundra country and in the park naturalists, conducted timbered areas, the best discovery hikes, slide pro­ routes to take are along grams, evening campfire river bars and gravel crests programs, and sled dog Take extra caution in cross­ demonstrations. ing streams; they are swifter than they seem. All walkers You will almost certainly need sturdy shoes or boots, want to travel further into insect repellent, and rain the park. The park road is gear. A back-country use 140 kilometers (87 miles) permit is required for over­ long. During the visitor sea­ night outings. (See hiking son private vehicles are not regulations under "Help permitted beyond Savage Protect the Park and Your­ River except to proceed to a self.") Take reasonable reserved campsite. Beyond precautions and allow time Savage River, about 24 to discover the wild coun­ kilometers (1 5 miles) from try. Bright-colored clothing the entrance to the park, the or "flagging" material is road is unpaved. advisable so you can be Free Public Transporta­ spotted in case of problems. tion. Since private vehicles Fishing. Most rivers in the are not allowed, there is free park contain a milky sus­ transportation Buses regu­ pension of pulverized silt or larly run from the Visitor rock flour, which makes Orientation Center to Eielson them uninhabitable by fish. Visitor Center and on to But arctic grayling can be Wonder Lake. The buses caught in a few mountain make scheduled stops at streams that are clear, and key points along the park lake trout, or mackinaw road for your convenience, trout, are taken from but you should feel free to Wonder Lake. get on and off at any point and to change buses as Seeing and Photograph­ many times as you please. ing Wildlife. The park's Bring all the food you will animals are wild and roam need, because there is no freely. You can't be sure food service beyond the you'll see them in any entrance area. specific place. Look for bears, wolves, foxes, and Wildlife Scenic Tour. caribou in open spaces Guided bus tours leave from along rolling hills, on river the park entrance area and bars, and on tundra slopes; go to the central area of the moose in the willow thickets park. You will need to buy a and spruce forests, and Dall ticket. The driver will help sheep on steep slopes and you spot geological fea­ near rocky cliffs.