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Home , Alaska Range, Aleutian Range, Avalanche Peak (Yukon), Colchuck Peak, Cordillera Apolobamba, Dragontail Peak

INDEX

Volume 28 l Issue 60 l 1986

Compiled by Patricia A. Fletcher

This issue comprises all of Volume 28

Mountains are listed by their official names and ranges; quotation marks indicate unofficial names. Ranges and geographic locations are also in- dexed. Unnamed peaks(e.g., Peak2037) are listed following the range or country in which they are located. All expedition memberscited in major articles are included, whereas only the leaders and persons supplying information in the Climbs and Expeditions section are listed. Titles of books reviewed in this issue are grouped as a single entry under Book Reviews. Abbreviations used: Article: art.; Bibliography: bibl.; Obituary: obit.

A Aconcagua (Argentina), 112, 114, 197-200; parachute descent of, 200 Abi Gamin (Garhwal Himalaya), 253 Adams, B., 114 Abra (Cordillera de Potosi, ), Adams, W., 114 196 Adlok Peak (Baffin Island), 185 Abrego, Mari, 293-95 Aeolian Tower (Utah), 168 Acay (Argentina), 197 Agssuassat (Greenland), 186 Accidents: Aconcagua, 200; Ama Dablam, Agua Blanca (Culata, Sierra de la, 22 1; Annapuma Dakshin, 245; Broad Venezuela), 187 Peak, 269; , 140, 141; Everest, Airport Tower. See Aeolian Tower. 227-28, 29.5, 298-99; Garhwal, Peak , arts., 57-63, 65-68, 69-72; 139-5 1 6131, 257; Gaurishankar, 236; Gurja , arts., 57-63, 65-68, 69-72; Himal, 251; Himalchuli, 240; K2, 268, 139-45, 147 271; , 252; Kang Guru, 242; Alaska Range: Peak 5350, 147; Peak 6210, Kangchenjunga, 215; Kangchungtse, 147; Peak 6290, 147; Peak 7290, 147 219-20; Langtang Lirung, 237; Lhotse, Aide, Carlo, 220 229, 232; Lukpilla Brakk, 282; Manaslu, (Alaska), 147-48 239; Masherbrum, 277; McGinnis Peak, Altar (Ecuador), 188 145; Nanga Parbat, 288, 290; Pabil, 238; Altar Group (Ecuador), 188 Patagonian Icecap, 207; Rakaposhi East, Abanico (Merida, de, 285; Saser Kangti II, 261; Siula Grande, Venezuela), 187 194; Tawoche, 221; Thalay Sagar, 256; Ama Dablam (Nepal Himalaya), art., Yalung Kang, 213-14 16-19; 220-23

341 THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL 1986

Amarillo (Zenta Range, Argentina), 196-97 Peak (6443m) (Garhwal American Alpine Club, The: Alaska Himalaya), 209 Section, 150-51, 334; Cascade Section, : Kashmir, 259 334-35; New York Section, 335-36; Sierra Nevada Section, 336 Anaroyo. See Cunurana. B (South America), early ascents in, art., Ill-16 Baba, Hiroyuki, 218 Andrews, Rosamond C., art., 47-55 Baffin Island (), art., 39-45; 185 Angdu Ri (), 258 Bagley, John, 39-45 Annapuma (Nepal Himalaya), 242-43 Baichechekay (Tien Shan, USSR), 304-305 Annapuma II (Nepal Himalaya), 243 Bailey, H., Ill-12 Annapuma III (Nepal Himalaya), 244 Bailey, Solon, 11 l-12 Annapuma IV (Nepal Himalaya), 244 Bakewell, Anderson, 113 Annapuma Dakshin (Nepal Htmalaya), 245 Bakree Peak ( Range, Pakistan), Annapuma South. See Annapuma Dakshin. 279 Antarctica, 207-209 Balconies (Pinnacles National Monument, Anyemaqen (Kunlun Mountains, China), ), 157 293 Balog, James, 258 Anyemaqen IV (Kunlun Mountains, Balyan Bashi (Tien Shan, USSR), 304 China), 293 Baranek, Janusz, 256 Aota, Htroshi, 224 Barisyonok, Oleg, 21-26 Aprin, Hooman, 16-19 “Barmal Peak” (Jammu and Kashmir), 258 Arabesque Towers (Coast Mountains, Barrachina (Greenland), 186 ), 182 Barrakhs (Jordan), 306 Arch Canyon (Bridges National Monument, Barrard, Liliane. 217-18, 268 Utah), 168-69 Barrard, Maurice, 217-18, 268 Arches National Park (Utah), 168 Barrille, Mount (Alaska Range), 144; , 185 ascentsof, 143 Arenas, Cerro (Chile), 203 Baruntse (Nepal Himalaya), 220 Argentina, arts., 97-100, 101-9; 196-201, Bass, Richard, 208, 225 203-206 Batard, Marc, 223 (Cascade Mountains, Bates, Robert H., art., 27-38; 33 1 Washmgton), 154 Batwinas, Dan, 175 Arizona, 172 Bear Mountain (Cascade Mountains, Arizona Mountaineering Club, 336 ), 152-53 Arko, Vojslav, 203-204, 205-206 Bear’s Tooth (Alaska Range), 144 Arranz, Alejandro, 223-24 Bear’s Tooth (Wind River Range, Asia, 209-304 Wyoming), 172 Asperity, Mount (Coast Mountains, Bebie, Mark, 152-53 British Columbia), 181 Beckey, Fred, 172, 182-84 Astier, Yves, 200, 203 Beghin, Pierre, 297-98 Astillado (), 206 Belak, Stane, 249-50 Atanasov, Boian, 243 Beorchia, Antonio, 196-97, 200-201 Atillaborgen (Staunings Alps, Greenland), Bepler, Thomas C., 39-45 186 Berbeka, Maciej, 7- 13 Atter, Mount (Greenland), 186 Bergamaschi, Arturo, 293 Aucanquilcha (Chile), 113 Bering, E., 113 Ausangate (Cordillera Vilcanota, ), Berkman, Martin, 7-13 195 Berljak, Darko, 189-90 Austin, Waddell, 112 Bernard, Jean-Pierre, 258 Avalanche Peak (6196m) (Garhwal Betancourt, Jose, 187 Himalaya), 210 Bhagirathi I1 (Garhwal Himalaya), 255-56

342 INDEX

Bhagtrathi III (Garhwal Himalaya), 256 Human Adaptation, Amitabha Basu and Bharte Khunta (Garhwal Himalaya), 210 Kailash C. Malhotra, edttors, 309 Bhrtgupanth (Garhwal Himalaya), 256 Le jeu de la montagne et du hasard, Bhutan, 209, 210-l 1 Anne Sauvy, 315 Btanchi, Cesare Cesa, 255 Joe Dodge: One New Hampshire Big Thompson Canyon (Colorado), 175 Institution, William L. Putnam, Bighorn Mountains (Wyoming), 175 316-17 Bingham, Hiram, 112 KlhmanJaro: The White Roof of Africa. Bishop, Robert H., II3 Harald Lange, 322-24 BJomstad, Eric, 165-69, 172 Konsatsu Gaikoku Sanmei Jiten (A Black Velvet Canyon (Charleston Range, Concise Dictionary of Names of Nevada), 161-63 Foreign Mountains), lchiro Blackadar, Mount (, Yoshizawa, 325 Territory), 178-79 Medicina de Montana, Eusko Jaurlaritza, Blanch, Conrad, 297 editor, 3 IO Blanchard, Barry, 73-79 Medicine for Mountaineering, Third Bobisghir (Karakoram Range, Pakistan), Edition, James A. Wilkerson, editor. 279 310-l I Bogomolov, G., 21-26 Menlove: The Life of John Menlove Bogomolov, S., 21-26 Edwards, Jim Perrin, 319-21 BoJor, Ovidiu, 251 Mountameering First Aid, Third Edition, Boks (Tien Shari,, USSR), 304 Martha J. Lentz, Stephen C. Bolivar (Merida, Sierra Nevada de, Macdonald and Jan D. Carline, 311-12 Venezuela), 114, 187 Off the Beaten Track, Elizabeth D. Bolivar (Santa Marta. Sierra Nevada de, Woolsey, 3 I9 Colombia), I 13 Parque National Huascaran, Bolivia, 195-96 Ancash-Peni, Jim Battle, 324-25 Bona, Mount (Saint Elias Mountains, Shawangunk Rock Climbing, Richard Alaska), 149 Bonington, Christian, 225-26 DuMais, 32 1-22 BOOK REVIEWS Two Generations, Edmund and Peter Breaking Point, Glenn Randall, 315-16 Hillary, 317-18 Chaltel (Fitzroy), Carlos Capellas, BorJon, Ernest Charles, 334 editor, 324-25 Borlte, Jacques, 186 La Cordillera Real de 10s Andes, Boyer, Jean-Pierre, 258 Bolivia, Alain Messili, 324-25 Braham, Trevor, 278 Eric Shipton: The Six Mountain Travel Bramona i Rams, Ram&r, 186 Books, 3 I2 Brand, Eric, art., 39-45 Everest: De 10s Andes al Himalaya, Breashears, David, 21-26 Gaston Oyarzdn, 3 14 Bridges National Monument (Utah), 168-69 Everest Grand Circle: A Climbing and Bridwell, James D., 302-303 Skiing Adventure through Nepal and British Columbia, arr., 73-79; 179-85 Tibet, Ned Gillette and Jan Reynolds, Broad Peak (Karakoram Range, Pakistan), 312-13 267, 268-69, 289 Everest 1982, USSR Mountaineering Brookes, Austin, 298 Federation, 313-14 Brooks Range (Alaska), 148 Everest: The Testing Place, John B. Brown, Keith, 303 West, 308-309 Brownstone Wall (Jumper Canyon, Expedition Medicale Francaise en Nevada), 165 Himalaya, Jean Paul Richalet, editor, Buhler, Carlos, art., 81-86; 184 310 Biihler, Ueli, 199 High Altitude Deterioration, J. Rivolier, Buracchio, Christian, 202 P. Cerretelli, J. Foray and P. Burchfiel, Clark, 27-38 Segantini, editors, 309 Burgher, Peter H., 147

343 THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL 1986

C Chimney Rock (Cascade Mountains, Washington), 153 Cabot, Thomas, 113 China, arf., 27-38; 209, 293, 302-304 Cachi (Argentina), 197 China. See also Tibet. Calcagno, Gianni, 292-93 Cho Oyu (Nepal Himalaya), art., 7- 13; California, 155-60 234-36 Campanile Esloveno (Argentina), 201 Cho Oyu (Tibet), 234 Canada, 175-85 Chobutse (Nepal Himalaya), 236 Candarave (Cordillera Occidental, Peru), Chochia (Soviet climber), 21-26 III Cholatse (Nepal Himalaya), 220 Canonigo (Ecuador), 188 Chomolhari Range (Bhutan), 210, 21 I Canyonlands National Park (Utah), 168, Chongtar. See Spender, Mount, 169, 171 Chopicalqui (Cordillera Blanca, Peru), 191 Cari Cari (Cordillera de Potosi, Bolivia), Chomii, Nicholas, 21-26 196 Chorten Peak (Karakoram Range, ), Carihairazo Este (Ecuador), 188 266 Carter, H. Adams, 113, 114, 315 Chrobak, Eugeniusz, 7- I3 Casarotto, Renato, 272 Chuculai (Chile), 201 Cascade Mountains (Washington), 151-54 Chugach Mountains (Alaska), 148-49 Cashan Este (Cordillera Blanca, Peru), 191 Cbugach Mountains: Peak 6148, 148; Peak Castillo (Cocuv, Sierra Nevada de, 6206, 148; Peak 6313, 148; Peak 6339, Colombia), i87 148; Peak 6650, 148; Peak 6985, 148; Castle, Philip, 194 Peak 7080, 148;Peak 7111, 148,Peak Catedral (Argentina), 201 7234, 148; Peak 7327, 148, Peak 7500, Cathedral Spires (Kichatna Mountains, 148; Peak 7689, 148 Alaska), ascents of, 143 Church, Walter Stuart, I1 I Caucasus (USSR), 209 Clevenger, Vem I55 Cauthom, Daniel W., 153, 181-82 Climbing exchanges: Japanese, art.. 47-55; Cayambe (Ecuador), 114, 188 150-5 I Cayesh (Cordillera Blanca, Peru), 190 Clinch, Nicholas B., 27-38 CB 13a (Himachal Pradesh). 258 Coast Mountains (British Columbia), Celestial‘Peak (Sichuan Province, China), 179-84 303 Cochas, Nevados de (Peru), 1 I3 Cergol, Luciano, 245 Cocuy, Sierra Nevada de (Colombia), I87 Chakraborty, Pranesh, 252 Cohen, Geoffrey, 275 Chand, Prem, 266 (Cascade Mountains, Chandra Parbat (Garhwal Himalaya), 257 Washington), 154 Chandra Parbat II. See Chandra Parbat. Collpa Anante (Cordillera Vilcanota, Peru), Charleston Range (Nevada), 161-65 195 Chassagne, Jean-Paul, 199-200 Colombia, 187 Chatteriee, Prodvot, 252 Colomer, Jordi, I86 Cheesmond, Daiid Malcolm, art., 73-79 Col6n (Santa Marta, Sierra Nevada de, Chehalis Range (Coast Mountains, British Colombia), 1 I3 Columbia), I82 Colorado, 174-75 Cheney, Michael J., 215-17, 219-21, Group (Rocky 224-25, 228-29, 232, 235, 236-38, Mountains, Canada), art., 73-79 239-40, 241, 242, 243-46, 250, 251, Cookie Cliff (Yosemite, California), 158 252 Copiap6 (Chile), 201 Cherubim Dome (Seauoia National Park. Cordillera Apolobamba (Peru), 195 California), I.57 Cordillera Blanca (Peru). art.. 81-86: 112. Chiku, Takashi. 258 189-91 Child, William Spencer, obir., 331 Cordillera Central (Peru), 114 Chile, art., 87-95; 201-203, 207 Cordillera de Potosi (Bolivia), 195-96 Chillan (Chile), I13 Cordillera de Quimsa Cruz (Bolivia), 196 Chimborazo (Ecuador), 112, 114, 188 Cordillera Huayhuash (Peru), 114, 191-94

344 INDEX

Cordillera Occidental (Peru), 11 l-12 Dill, David Bruce, 113 Cordillera Oriental (Colombia), 113 Dionisio, D., I13 Cordillera Oriental (Ecuador), 111 Diran (Karakoram Range, Pakistan), 282, Cordillera Oriental (Peru), 113 283, 285-86 Cordillera Real (Bolivia), 114, 196 Dirgol Zom (, Pakistan), Cordillera Vilcanota (Peru), 194-95 282-93 Coropuna (Cordillera Occidental, Peru), Dixon, Jerry, 17X-79 112 “” (Karakoram Range, India), 263 Cotopaxi (Ecuador), 114, 188 Dobashi, K., 290 Cottage Dome, West (Sierra Nevada, Dodge, T. A., 113 California), 159 Doherty, Sarah, 65-68 Cowles, Elizabeth, 113 Dome Rock (Rattlesnake Range, Coyle, Russell, 113 Wyoming), 173 Crescent Mountain (Utah), 169-7 1 Don Luis (Cordillera de Quimsa Cruz, Crosson, Mount (Alaska Range), ascents Bolivia), 196 of, 143 DoAa In& (Chile), 201 Crow, Pieter, 314 Dongus-Orun (Caucasus, USSR), 209 Crow’s Head Spires (Utah), 169 Denim, James U., 57-63 Crowter, W., 1I4 Dorje Lakpa (Nepal Himalaya), 237 Cubo (Patagonia), 206 Dossin, Eric, 224 Culata, Sierra de la (Venezuela), 187 Dove. See Paloma. Culbert, Dick, 112 Dozier Dome (Sierra Nevada, California), Cummings, Peter, 302-303 160 Cunurana (Cordillera de Potosi, Bolivia), Dragon Peak (Sierra Nevada, California), 195, 196 155 (Cascade Mountains, Washington), 154 D Drug Dome (Sierra Nevada, California), 159 D41. See Barmal Peak. Duenwald, Jeff, 214 Da Polenza, Agostino, 269-71 Duff, Malcolm, 295-97 Daff Dome (Sierra Nevada, California), Dunator (Staunings Alps, Greenland), 186 159 Duncker, L., 112 Davies, David, 87-95 Durango (Colorado), 174 de la Motte, E., 1 I2 Dushanbe (Pamirs, USSR), 305-306 de Visser, Pieter, 252 Decamp, Erik, 221, 255 Demolombe, Pierre, 2 19-20 E Denali (Alaska Range), art., 65-68; 139-40, 141-42; ascents of, 143 Eagle, Jimmy, 1 I4 Denali Medical Research Project. See High Ebert, James (Jim), 337 Latitude Research Group (Denali). Echelon Spire (Logan Mountains, Denali National Park and Preserve Northwest Territories), 185 (Alaska), 139-42; ascents in, 143 Echevarria, Evelio, art.. I I I-16; 195-96, Dharamsura (Himachal Pradesh), 258 324-25 Dhaulagiri (Nepal Himalaya), 242, 246-50 Ecuador, 188 Dhaulagiri II (Nepal Himalaya), 250 Edwards, E., 114 Di Federico, G., 27 1 Edwards, H. T., 113 Dial, Roman, 144-47 El Capitan (Yosemite, California), 157-58 Dickey, Mount (Alaska Range), ascents of, Elbrus (Caucasus, USSR), 209 143 Elchibekov, Vadim, 305 Dickinson, Glen, 47-55 Elephant Rock (Yosemite, California), 158 Diefenderfer, Paul, 336 Elijah, Mount (Utah), 171

345 AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL 1986

Embers Mountain (Coast Mountains, G British Columbia), 183 Embick, Andrew, 47-55, 150-51 Gabites, Geoffrey, 221 Emmett, Daniel, 208 Ganchen Group (Karakoram Range, Emmons, Arthur B., 114 Pakistan), 279 Equipment: Protection, art., 117-21 Ganchen South (Karakoram Range, E&d, Philip, 335-36 Pakistan), 279 Ercalani. Maria Luisa. 275 Ganesh (Nepal Himalaya), 238 Ermitatio (Chile), 201 Ganesh IV. See Pabil Escoffier, Eric, 271 Gangapuma (Nepal Himalaya), 244 Esteve, Alain, 200 Garaioa, Xabier, 234 Etemite, Pointe de 1’ (Greenland), 186 Garcia Astudillo, , 290 Ethics, art., 14-15 Gardzielewski, Miroslaw, 7-13 Everest (Nepal Himalaya), 224-29 Garhwal (India), 209- 10, 252-57 Everest (Tibet), 293-99 Garhwal: Peak 6131, 257; Peak 6504, 257; Peak 6739, 257 Gamer, William Vaughan, 21-26 Gasherbmm. See Hidden Peak. F Gasherbrum II (Karakoram Range, Pakistan), 14, 269, 271, 272-74, 289; (Sierra Nevada, hong-glidingfrom, 273; parachuting California), 159 from, 273 Faivre, Pierre, 256 Gasherbrum III (Karakoram Range, Farrand, Camille, 11 I Pakistan), 275 Faure, Frederic, 196, 200 Gasherbtum IV (Karakoram Range, Fame, Monique, 196, 200 Pakistan), art., 1-5 Feller, Michael, 148 Gasherbrum VI (Karakoram Range, Ferrari, Casimiro, 220 Pakistan), 275 Fichter, Walter, 245 Gasherbrum Group (Karakoram Range, Fine, Vincent, 229-32 Pakistan), geological survey of, 277-78 Fitz Roy (Patagonia), arts., 97-100, 101-4, Gaurishankar (Nepal Himalaya), 236-37 203, 205 Ghul-Lasht-Zom South (Hindu Kush, Flaczydski, Krzysztof, 7- I3 Pakistan), 292 Fletcher. Patricia A.. 319 Giongo, Giuliano, 207 Florence Range (British Columbia), 179 Girth Pillar (Cascade Mountains, Foott, Jeff, 27-38 Washington), 154 Foraker, Mount (Alaska Range), ascents ox Glenwood Springs Canyon (Rocky 143 Mountains, Colorado), 174 Forbes, W. H., 113 Golodov (Soviet climber), 21-26 Fossett, Stephen, 207 Goodhue, Samuel H., 316-17 Four, Peak of the (Pamirs, USSR), 305 Goodman, Donald J., 334-35 Francis, Henry S., Jr., 330 Gordon, Johnathan, 87-95 Frantar, Marija, 304-305 Gore, Jerry M., 190-91 Frapier, Andre, 7-13 Graber, Michael, 97-100 Free Korea Peak (Tien Shan, USSR), 304 Graf, Fredy, 269 Freedom Dome (Pinnacles National Grainger, Mount (Coast Mountains, British Monument, California), 156-57 Columbia), 182 Freese, Lloyd, 175 Grand Sentinel (Sierra Nevada, California), Fremont Canyon (Rattlesnake Range, 155 Wyoming), 173 Greenland, 185-86 Friedrich, Peter, 201 Greenland: Peak 1780, 186; Peak 1790, Front Range (Colorado), 174 186 Fujii, Masaaki, 243 Grenelle Peak (Coast Mountains, British Furuhata, Yoshimichi, 239 Columbia), 182 Fuster, Beda, 104-9 Grenier, Gilbert, 185

346 INDEX

Griffin, Lindsay, 188, 279 Himalchuli (Nepal Himalaya), 240-41 Guardian (Santa Marta, Sierra Nevada de, Himalchuli North (Nepal Himalaya), 241 Colombia), 113, 114 Himalchuli West (Nepal Himalaya), 242 Guha, Kamal K., 221, 247, 252, 253, 257 Hindu Kush (Pakistan), 292-93 Guillaumet (Patagonia), 206 Hirabavashi. Katsutoshi. 302 Guppie Wall (Sierra Nevada, California), Hirata,.Noriyuki, 51 159 Hoh Lungma Peak (Karakoram Range, Gurja Himal (Nepal Himalaya), 251 Pakistan), 279 Gurla Mandhata (Tibet), 302; nomenclufure Hollingshead, Frank, art., 129-37 of, 302 Holmgren, Jack, 156-57 Gurudongmar ( Himalaya), 210 Hori, Ryohei, 211 Hombein, Thomas, 27-38 Homby, Geoffrey, 256 H Houston, Charles S., art., 122-27; 308-10, 313-14 Haberl, Gerhard, 285 Howard, Tony, 306-307 Hackett, Peter H., art.. 129-37 Huandoy Este (Cordillera Blanca, Peru), Hackett, William D., 114 189-90 Haid, Arthur, 232 Huandoy Norte (Cordillera Blanca, Peru), Half Dome (Yosemite, California), 158 191 Hall, F. G., 113 Huandoy Oeste (Cordillera Blanca, Peru), Hall, Francis, 115 191 Hammer Dome (Sierra Nevada, California), Huascaran (Cordillera Blanca, Peru), art., 159 81-86; 189 Harlequin Dome (Sierra Nevada, Huascaran Norte (Cordillera Blanca, Peru), California), 159 112, 189, 190 Harlrn, John, 189 Huascaran Sur (Cordillera Blanca, Peru), Harrah, Dave, 114 189. 190 Harrington, Randy, art., 16-19 Huayna Potosi (Cordillera Real, Bolivia), Harrison Smith, Mount (Logan Mountains, 196 Northwest Territories), 185 Hummingbird Spire (Canyonlands National Hatter, Gunther, 256 Park, Utah), 171 Harwood, Robert, 247 Hunter, Mount (Alaska Range), art., Hasegawa, Tsuneo, 298-99 57-63; 140-41, 143-44; ascentsqf, 143 Hasenkopf, Arnold, 258 Huntington, Mount (Alaska Range), Hawley, Elizabeth, 215-17, 219-21, ascents of, 143 224-25, 228-29, 232, 235, 236-38, Hussain, Rayyaz, 268 239-40, 241, 242, 243-46, 250, 25 1, 252 Haydon Peak (Saint Elias Mountains, Alaska), 150 I Hayes Range (Alaska), 144-45 Haystack Mountain (Wind River Range, Ice climbing: Alaska, 150-51; Canada, Wyoming), 172-73 184-85: Colorado. 175; Utah, 172 Heinrich, Zygmunt Andrzej, 7-13 Icebox Canyon (Charleston Range, Hendicott, David, 188 Nevada), 165 Hennek, Dennis P., 27-38 Idaho Alpine Club, 336-37 Hersman, William G. (Willy), 147-48 Ikeda, lsao, 52 Hesperus, Mount (Revelation Mountains, Ilgner, Amo U., 173 Alaska), art., 69-72 Ihamna (Aleutian Range, Alaska), 147-48 Hidden Peak (Karakoram Range, Pakistan), Illimani (Cordillera Real, Bolivia), 196 269-72 Ilhniza Norte (Ecuador), 188 High Latitude Research Group (Denali), lmjatse (Nepal Himalaya), 223, 229 art., 129-37; 139 Incahuasi (Chile), 115 Hikmul (Karakoram Range, Pakistan), 279 Incas, 196-97, 201 Himachal Pradesh (India), 258 Index Town Walls (Washington), 154

347 THE Ah4ERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL 1986

India, 209, 211-13, 252-66 Kangchunne (Nepal Himalaya), 252 Inwood, Julie A., obit., 331-32 Kanglacha (), 259 Iowa Mountaineers, 337 Kangtega (Nepal Himalaya), 223 Ishinca (Cordillera Blanca. Peru). 190 Kanjut Sar (Karakoram Range, Pakistan), Island in the Sky (Sierra Nevada, 282 California), 160 Kanjut Sar II (Karakoram Range, Pakistan), Island Peak. See Imjatse. 282 Itten, Markus, 299 Kankapilnzum (Kilnla Kangri Range, Ivanov, Valentin, 2 I-26 Bhutan/Tibet), 210-l 1 Iwa, Maku, 54 Kapadia, Harish, 261-63, 266 Karakoram Range (China), 302-303 Karakoram Range (India), 259-66 J Karakoram Range (Pakistan), art.. l-5; 266-87 Jaccoux, Claude, 273, 304 Karakoram Range (Pakistan): Peak 5677, Jacobson, Frederick, 322-24 283; Peak 6872, 287 Jade Dragon Mountain. See Yulong Shan. Karma, Ang, 251 Jancahuay (Cordillera Oriental, Peru), 113 Karphogang (Karakoram Range, Pakistan), Jangtugan (Caucasus, USSR), 209 279 Jannu. See Kumbhakama. Karyolung (Nepal Himalaya), 237 Japan, art.. 47-55 Kashmir (India), 258-59 Jebel Al Kharza’li (Jordan), 306 Kashu, Shin, 277 Jebel Rum (Jordan), 306-307 Keamey, Alan J., arr., 101-9 Jebel Um’ishrin (Jordan), 306 Kedar Dome (Garhwal Himalaya), 255 Jervis, Steven, 319-21 Kefford, Michael, 217 Jessup, Richard, 219 Kekus, Nikola, 295-97 Jichu Drake. See Tsherim Kang. Kelly, Jeff, 154 Jirak, Ivan, 114 Kelmelis, John A., 208 Joe, Edwin C., 155, 157 Kennedv. Michael. 221-23 Jogasaki (Japan), 51-52 Kerns, Matthew, art., 65-68 Johannesburg Mountain (Cascade Ketil (Greenland), 185 Mountains, Washington), 153 Keys, Ancel, 113 Jones, Christopher A. G., 303-304. 336 Khomutov, Valerii, 21-26 Jordan, 306-307 Kichatna Mountains (Alaska), 145-47; Juncal (Argentina), 199 ascents in, 143 Juniper Canyon (Charleston Range, Kichatna Mountains: Peak 6000, 145; Peak Nevada), 163-65 8055, 145-47 Kichatna Spires. See Cathedral Spires. Kim, Ki-Heyg, 215-17, 229 K Kim, Young-Ho, 237 King, Benjamin E. (Tom), obit., 328-30 K2 (Karakoram Range, Pakistan), 266-68, King. Merle W.. 336-37 27 1, 277-78; geological survey of, Kings Canyon (Sierra Nevada, California), 277-78; hang-gliding from. 273 155 K 12 (Karakoram Range, India), 266 Kirat Chuli (Sikkim Himalava). 217 Kabru Dome (Sikkim Himalaya), 211-13 Kirghiz Ala Tau. See Kirghiz Range. Kagmara. See Kangchunne. Kirghiz Range (Tien Shan, USSR), Kalabaland Dhura (Garhwal Himalaya), 304-305 210 Kirov Peak (Pamirs, USSR), 305 Kamet (Garhwal Himalaya), 252-55 Klemenc, Stane, 205 Kanazawa, Ken, 235 Kluane National Park (Yukon Territory), Kang Guru (Nepal Himalaya), 242 175 Kangchenjunga (Sikkim Himalaya), 213, Knight, J., 293 214-15; hang-gliding from, 273 Knight, Robert, 101-4 Kangchungtse (Nepal Himalaya), 219-20 Knowles, Elizabeth, 113

348 INDEX

Kobayashi, Shigeru, 52 Logan Mountains (Northwest Territories), Kobayashi, Soichi, 25 1 185 Koblmiiller, Edi, 285 (Front Range, Colorado), 174 Kommunizma (Pamirs. USSR). 305 Lookout Point (Index Town Walls, Komzhenevskoi (Pam&, USSR), 305, 306 Washington), 154 Korona (Tien Shan, USSR), 304 Loretan, Erhard, 266-68 Kost, Danny W., 148-49 Lotus Flower Tower (Logan Mountains, Kozak, David, 174 Northwest Territories), 185 Kukreti, P. L., 252 Low Profile Dome (Sierra Nevada, Kukuczka, Jerzy, 7-13 California), 159 Kulu (India), 258 Lucania, Mount (Saint Elias Mountains, Kumar. Kiran I., 256 Yukon Territory, 178 Kumbhakama (Nepal Himalaya), 215-17 Luis Garcia, Jo&, 246 Kun (Jammu and Kashmir), 258 Luke:, &stmir, 220 Kilnla Kangri Range (Bhutan/Tibet), Lukpe La Brakk. See Lukpilla Brakk. 210-I I Lukpilla Brakk (Karakoram Range. Kunlun Mountains (China), 293 Pgkistan), 282 Kurtyka, Wojciech, art., 1-5 Lunana Range (Bhutan/Tibet), 209 Kurtz, Andrew, 16-19 Lupgha Group (Karakoram Range, Kusum Kanguru (Nepal Himalaya), 223-24 Pakistan), 286 Kyong, Soo-Jeon, 223 Lutz, Robert, 115

L M

Ladakh (India), 259 Machnik, Andrzej, 215 Lalaga Ri (Tibet), 299-302 Mad Eagle Peak (Cascade Mountains, Lamb, Alan, 331-32 Washington), 15 1 Lamb Dome (Sierra Nevada, California), Majer, Janusz, 232 159 Makalu (Nepal Himalaya), 217-19 Langshisha Ri (Nepal Himalaya), 237 Makalu II. See Kangchungtse. Langtang Lirung (Nepal Himalaya), 237 Malangutti Sar (Karakoram Range, Laramcota Chico (Cordillera de Quimsa Palclstan), 286 CNZ, Bolivia), 196 Manaslu (Nepal Himalaya), 238-40 Latok II (Karakoram Range, Pakistan), 279 Mandani (Gaihwal Himalaya), 210 Lavaraju, K. R., 253 Manica, Mario, 206 Le Conte, Helen Malcolm, &it., 332 Marioulumne Dome (Sierra Nevada, Lee, Kyu-Jin, 241 California). 159-60 Lee, Suk-Woo, 244 Marmier, Jean-Claude, 21 l-13 Lenin (Pamirs, USSR). 305 Marmolejo (Chile), 202 L.ePivam, Louis, 274 Marquis, Dominique, 258 Lesueur, Justin, 69-72 Marshall, Roger, i35-36 Leversee, Dick, 156 Martin. Carol, 65-68 Lewis, Tony, 287-88 Martin, James, 154, 182 “Lhanmo” (Karakoram Range, India), 263 Martini, Sergio, 218 Lhotse (Nepal Himalaya), 229-32 Masang Kang (Chomolhari Range, Lhotse Shar (Nepal Himalaya), 229 Bhutan), 211 Lighthouse, The (Canyonlands National Mascioli, Steven, 143-44 Park, Utah), 171 Masherbrum (Karakoram Range, Pakistan), “Little Switzerland” (Alaska Range). 275-78 ascents in, 143 Maslowski, Wojciech, 244 Llaima (Chile), 113, 114 Masyukov (Soviet climber), 21-26 Llullaillaco (Chile), 201 Matas, Jaume, 232 Logan, Mount (Saint Elias Mountains, Matho Kangri (Ladakh), 259 Yukon Territory), 175 Matsumoto, Masaki, 150

349 THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL 1986

Maxie, John, 114 Kangtega, 223; Karyolung, 237; Maxwell, Jim, 114 Kommunizma, 305; Korzhenevskoi, 306; Mazeaud, Pierre, 269 Kumbhakama, 215-17; Makalu, 218-19; McCabe, Stephen, 157 Manaslu, 240; Musdzhilga, 306; San McClane, C., 113 Gabriel, 202; Tawoche, 221; Temple, McFarland, Ross, 113 184; Whitney, 156 McGinnis Peak (Alaska Range), 144-45 Mularz, Pawel, 290 McKinley, Mount. See Denali. Muller, Bernard, 288-89 (Sierra Nevada, Mhnchenbach, Hartmut, 204 California), 160 Munday, Mount (Coast Mountains, British Meier, Ruedi, 217 Menthosa (Himachal Pradesh), 258 Columbia), 181, 182 Mera (Nepal Himalaya), 224 Muroi, Yumiko, 50-51 Mereness, Thomas, 305 Musdzhilga (Pamirs, USSR), 306 MCrida, Sierra Nevada de (Venezuela), Mustagh Ata (Pamirs, China), 304 114, 187 Mustagh Tower (Karakoram Range, Merrimac Butte (Utah), 165-68 Pakistan), 278 Messner, Reinhold, 242-43 Miller, Benjamin LeRoy, 115 Mills, William J., Jr., art., 129-37 N Milpocraju (Cordillera Blanca, Peru), 190-9 1 Naar, Ronald, 219 Misti (Cordillera Occidental, Peru), Ill-12 Naess, Ame, 225 Mitsutoge Wall (Japan), 52 Naimona’nyi. See Gurla Mandhata. Miyano, Nobuaki, 245 Nakano, Yoshihisa, 237 Mlynarczyk, Zbigniew, 246 Nakayma, Shigeki, 150 Molnar, Peter, 27-38 Nakra (Caucasus, USSR), 209 Momb, Kim, obit., 332-33 Nam, Ki-Chang, 250 Monument Valley (Arizona), 172 Nam, Sang-Tae, 228 Moore, Terris, 112 Namcha Barwa (Namcha Barwa Range, Moose’s Tooth (Alaska Range), 144; China/India), altitude of, 209 ascents of- 143 Nanga Parbat (Himalaya Pakistan), 282, Morishita, Midori, 258 285, 287-90 Moro, Renato, 221, 299 Nankervis, John, 236 Moro Rock (Sierra Nevada, California), Nanna Peak (Baffin Island), 185 155 Nassrani (Jordan), 306 Morrow, Pat, 207, 209 National parks: Argentina, 197-99 “Mother Lode.” See Utah, Peak 7905. Nemoto, Tohru, 279 Mottet, Jorge, 114 Nepal, arts., 7-13, 16-19; 213-52 Mountaineering, 8000-meter peaks: art.. Nepal: “Peak 6417,” 217 14-15 Nepal Peak (Sikkim Himalaya), 217 Mountaineering, Solo: Aconcagua, 199; Nevada, 160-65 Celestial Peak, 303; Cerro Terre, 205; New Diversions (Yosemite, California), Hidden Peak, 271; Huascarsn Sur, 189; 158 Kusum Kangum, 224; Nanna Peak, 185; Newell, Daniel, 237 Norte, 205; TSUNP, 191 Newsom, Rob June, 144 Mountaineering, Winter: Aconcagua, 200; Ngabong Terong (Karakoram Range, Ama Dablam, 221; Annapuma, 242, 243; India), 266 Annapuma Dakshin, 245; Bona, 149; Ngojumba Kang (Nepal Himalaya), 234-35 Cerro Torre, 204-205; Chimney Rock, Nilgiri North (Neoal Himalaval. 246 153; Cho Oyu, 7-13, 235-36; Dhaulagiri, Nilgiri South (Nepal Himala;aj; 246 246, 247; Dushanbe, 305-306; Everest, Norte (Patagonia), 205 224-25, 228-29; Gangapuma, 244; North Dome (Sierra Nevada. California). Gaurishankar, 237; Girth Pillar, 154; 155 Iliamna, 147-48; Kangchenjunga, 215; Northwest Territories, 185

350 INDEX

Novak, Jifi, 247-49 Palcaraju (Cordillera Blanca, Peru), 190 Noxon, John Franklin, obif., 330 Palmer, Ronald G., 242 Nuestra Seiiora de las Nieves (Argentina), Paloma (Chile), I I4 200-201 Tranca (Cordillera Apolobamba, Nun (Jammu and Kashmir), 258 Peru), 195 Nupchu (Nepal Himalaya), 217 Pamirs (China), 304 Nupchu. See also Nepal, “Peak 6417”; Pamirs (USSR), 305-306 Ohmi Kangri. Panejko, Wieslaw, 241 Nyka, Jbzef, 189, 190, 194-95, 215, Pariacacca. See Tuyujuto. 218-19, 223, 256-57, 268, 269, 273, Park, Ji-Weon, 238 289, 306 Park, Jong-Soo, 236 Park, Young-Bae, 228 0 Parot Tower (Staunings Alps, Greenland), 186 Oak Creek Canyon (Charleston Range, Parque Provincial Aconcagua. See National Nevada), 163 parks. Argentina. Obispo (Ecuador), I88 Parque Provmcial Tupungato. See National Oelz, Oswald, 299 parks, Argentina. Ogawayama (Japan), 48 Parra, Luis A., 197-99 Ogose, Yoshio, 259 Passu (Karakoram Range, Pakistan), 287 Ogre Mountain (Coast Mountains, British Passu II (Karakoram Range, Pakistan), 287 Columbia), I83 Patagonia (Argentina), arts. 97-100, 101-9, Oh, In-Hwan, 221, 225 203-206 Ohama, Kenji, 246 Patagonia (Chile), art., 87-95; 207 Ohmi Kangri (Nepal Himalaya), 217 Patanonian Icecao (Pataeonia). 207 Ohuchi, Michifumi, 211 Pato: (Chile), 261 - Ojeda (Santa Marta, Sierra Nevada de, Patterson Bluffs (Sierra Nevada, Colombia), I13 California), 156 Ojos del Salado (Chile), 20 1 Pattullo, Mount (Coast Mountains, British Okada, Syuichi, 185 Columbia), 183 Oki, Masato, 259-61 Paul, Jiban Knshna, 257 Olca (Chile), I 15 Paumier, Philippe, 244 Olek, Jacques, 7-13 Pawlikowski, Maciej, 7-13 Olevsky, Ron, 160-61, 171 Peck, Annie Smith, I I2 Operation Everest II, art., 122-27 Pedrini, Marco, 205 Orban, Pal Gbza, 240 Peer, Craig, art., 87-95; 155 Orientacmn (Chile), 202 Petia Blanca (Chile), 201 Orton, James, 1 I1 Penitentes, Corddn do 10s (Argentina), 114 Otreba, Waclaw, 234 Pera, Luciano, 206 Ouray (Colorado), 175 Perdition Peak (Cascade Mountains, OyarzBn, Gaston, 196, 200, 203 Washington), 152 Ozaki, Takashi, 290 Perkins, Andrew, 257 Peru, art., 81-86; 189-95 P Peters, Arthur King, 327-38 Pabellon de la Laguna Verde (Argentina), Petzoldt, Paul, 113 197 Philip Smith Mountains (Alaska), 148 Pabell6n del Inca (Chile), 201 Philip Smith Mountains; Peak 7000, 148; Pabil (Nepal Himalaya), 238 Peak7365, 148;Peak 7400, 148;Peak Pabon, Rosa, 187 7670, 148; Peak 7800, 148; Peak 8045, Pachancoto (Cochas, Nevados de, Peru), 148 113 Pichincha (Ecuador), I I 1, 115 Paine Grande (Patagonia), 207 Pickering, W., 1 I2 Paine Sud (Patagoma), art., 87-95 Pier Giorgio (Patagonia), 206 Pakistan, art.. 1-5; 266-93 Pietrasanta. Allan, 259

351 THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL 1986

Pine Creek Canyon (Charleston Range, Razorback (Sierra Nevada, California), 159 Nevada), I65 Reason, Craig, 184-85 Pinnacle Peak (Jammu and Kashmir), 258 Rtbuffat, Gaston, obir., 327-28 Pinnacles National Monument (California), Red Rock Canyon (Charleston Range, 156-57 Nevada), 161-65 Pisco Oeste (Cordillera Blanca, Peru), 191 Redoubt, Mount (Aleutian Range, Alaska), Pissis (Argentina), 197 147 Plomo (Argentina), 199 Redoubt, Mount (Cascade Mountains, Washington), 151 Pobedy (Tien Shari,, USSR), art., 21-26 Redfem, Earl, 39-45 Pohlemus, Theodore, I14 Redman, Earl, 149 Poincenot (Patagonia), 206 Reid, Don, 157-60 Pope, Douglas, 144 Reina (Santa Marta, Sierra Nevada de, Porzak, Glenn E., 207-208 Colombia), I I3 Power Dome (Sierra Nevada, California), Reinhard, Johan, 197, 201 157 Renard, Tierry, 273-74 Powers, Hugh, I14 Renzler, Robert, 277 Prat, Marc, 258 Research, Scientific: High altitude, effects Protection. See Equipment: Protection. of, am., 122-27, 129-37; Mountain PrunCs, Joaquim, 252 sickness, art., 132-35; Pulmonary (Cascade Mountains, edema, art., 129-31; Sleep, art., 135-36 Washington), 154 Revelation Mountains (Alaska), art., 69-72 Puca Punta (Cordillera de Potosi, Bolivia), Rhino Horn (Utah), 169 196 Rimo (Karakoram Range, India), 263 Pucaranra (Cordillera Blanca, Peru), 190 Rimo III (Karakoram Range, India), 263 Puchkov, Valery, 21-26 Rimo IV (Karakoram Range, India), 261, Pulak, Mazundar, 257 263 Pumiri (Chile), 201 Riso Patr6n (Argentina), 199 Pumori (Nepal Himalaya), 232 Risse, Steven C., 151, 172-73 Puppy Dome (Sierra Nevada. California), Roach, Gerard A., 207-208, 209 159 Roach, Robert C., art., 129-37 Putana (Chile), I15 Robinson, Roger, 333 Putrin, Valet?, 305 Rocky Mountains (Canada), err., 73-79; 184-85 Q Rocky Mountains (Colorado), 174-75 Rogers, Susan, 3 17- 18 Quingarssuk (Greenland), 186 Rosario (Cordillera Huayhuash, Peru), 191-93 R Roskelley, John F. C., 214, 332-33 Rowell, Galen A., art., 97-100; 156 Rabicano II (Chile), 202 Rubens, Desmond, 209 Raich, Norbert, 242 Rudolf, Wlodzimierz, 190 Rakaposhi (Karakoram Range, Pakistan), Rudolph, William E., I15 282, 283 Rundle, Mount (Rocky Mountains, Rakaposhi East (Karakoram Range, Canada), I84 Pakistan), 285 Rurigallay (Cordillera Huayhuash, Peru), Rakiot Peak (Himalaya, Pakistan), 290 193 Ramada (Argentina), 200 Russell, Mount (Sierra Nevada, California), Rana, Bhagirath Narsingh, 244 155 Rana, Gaurav S. J. B., 217 Sass, David, 226 Randall, Frances D., 333 “Salina” (Karakoram Range, India), 263 Rangwala, Zuzer, 258 “Saigat” (Karakoram Range, India), 263 Ranrapalca (Cordillera Blanca, Peru), 190 Saint Elias, Mount (Saint Elias Mountains, Rasac (Cordillera Huayhuash, Peru), 194 Alaska), 149, 150 Rattlesnake Range (Wyoming), 173 Saint Elias Mountains (Alaska), 149-50

352 INDEX

Saint Elias Mountains (Yukon Territory), Sevenmile Canyon (Utah), 171 175-79 Shaw, R., I13 Saipal (Nepal Himalaya), 252 Shayamvam (Garhwal Himalaya), 210 Sajama (Cordillera Real, Bolivia), 114 Sherna Peak (Cascade Mountains. Sajovic, Peter, 312-13 Washington), I54 Sakashita, Naoe, 220-21 Shimazu, Kazuyuki, 290 Salfn (Argentina), 197 Shin, Ho-Jim, 251 Saltoro Group (Karakoram Range, India), Shinkai, Isao, 287 266 Shinn, Mount (, Antarctica), Salvaterra, Ermanno, 204-205 208 San Gabriel (Chile), 202 Shiota, Kosuke, 237 San Jose (Chile), 115, 203 Shishapangma (Tibet), 299 Sandhu, Balwant Singh, 211-13, 253-55 Shivling (Garhwal Himalaya), 256-57 Sangay (Ecuador), 1l-2 Sia Kangri (Karakoram Range, Pakistan), Santa Cruz (Cordillera Blanca. Peru). 191 269 Santa Marta, Sierra Nevada de (Colombia), Sierra Bella (Chile), 202 113, I14 Sierra Nevada (California), 155-60 Santiquin Canyon (Utah), 172 Sigayret, Henri, art., 14-15 Saser Kangri II (Karakoram Range, India), Sigurd, Mount (Baffin Island), 185 259-61 Sikkim Himalaya, 209, 210, 211-15, 217, (Garhwal Himalaya), 255 273 Satopanth West. See Garhwal, Peak 6504. Sikkim Himalaya: Peak 7385, 209 Savenc, Franci, 205 Simpson, Joseph, 191-94 Schauer, Robert, l-5 Sin Nombre (Chile), 202 Scherrer, Marc, 259 Singh, Hukam, 259 Schmuck, Marcus, 299 Singh, Jagit, 227 Schoene, Robert B., art.. 129-37 Siri, Wilham, I I4 Schoening, Peter K., 27-28 Siula Grande (Cordillera Huayhuash, Peru), Scott, Douglas K., 282-85 193-94 Searle, Michael, 277-78 Skarja, Tone, 213-14 Seibert, Robert R., 139-42 Ski mountaineering: Aconcagua, 200; Semenova Tienshanski (Tien Shari,, USSR), Cayambe, 188; Gasherbmm II, 273-74; 304 Huascaran, 189; Ladakh-Kashmir, 259; Sentinel Range (Antarctica), 207-209 San Jose, 203; Shishapangma, 299; Sia Sentinel Tower (Utah), I72 Kangri, 269; Tocllaraju, I89 Seo, Jong-Bae, 237 Skok, Janez, 290 Sequoia National Park (California), I57 Skoog, Gordon R., 152, 169-71 Serei Porkush. See Karakoram Range Skoog, Lowell, 152 (Pakistan), Peak 6872. Smimov (Soviet climber), 21-26 Seria Central (Cordillera Huayhuash, Peru), Smoot, Brian, 172 193 Sole Estabelle, Carlos, 258 Seria Norte (Cordillera Huayhuash, Peru), “Sondhi” (Karakoram Range, India), 263 193 Sonntag (Patagonia), 206 Serl. Don, 179-81 Sooth, K. S., 261 Serra, Angel, 285-86 Sopicki, Karol, 238 Serra (Coast Mountains, British Columbia), Sorcerer (Utah), 168 181 Sorcerer’s Apprentice (Utah), I68 Serra II (Coast Mountains, British Sors, Antoni, 297 Columbia), I81 South America, 187-207 Serra II1 (Coast Mountains, British Spalding, Stephen, art., 69-72 Columbia), 18 I Spearman Peak (Coast Mountains, British Serra IV (Coast Mountains, British Columbia), 182 Columbia), I8 I Spender, Mount (Karakoram Range, Serra V (Coast Mountains, British China), 302-303 Columbia), I81 Spickard, Mount (Cascade Mountains,

353 THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL 1986

Washington), 15 1 Thalay Sagar (Garhwal Himalaya), 256 Spirig, Toni, 282 Thamserku (Nepal Himalaya), 223, 229 Starrett, Randall McKnight, III, art., 21-26 Thor, Mount (Baffin Island), art., 39-45 Stately Pleasure Dome (Sierra Nevada, Thome, Lewis, 112 Tibet. 209. 234. 293-302 California), 159 Tien Shan (USSR), arf., 21-26; 304-305 Staunings Alps (Greenland), 186 Tier, Geoffrey, 195 Steinmann, Ruth, 269 Tilitso (Nepal Himalaya), 246 Steinmar, Gunther, 258 Tinch Mir North (Hindu Kush, Pakistan), Stewart, D., 112 292 Stuart, Mount (Cascade Mountains, Wash- Tirich Mir West IV (Hindu Kush, ington), 154 Pakistan), 292 (Washington), 154 Tobita, Kazuo, 268 Studer, Wilfried, 238-39 Tocllaraju (Cordillera Blanca, Peru), 189, Sugimoto, Tadao, 286 190 Sukkertoppen (Greenland), 186 Tolosa (Penitentes, Cord&r do los, Sumapaz (Cordillera Oriental, Colombia), Argentina), 114 113 Torii, Shuichi, 250 Sumeru Parbat (Garhwal Himalaya), 210 Terre, Cerro (Patagonia), art., 104-9; Sumner, William, 65-68 203-205, 206; ascem of, 203-204 “Sundbrar” (Karakoram Range, India), 263 Torrent (Greenland), 186 Susuki, Shomi, 150 Totem Pole (Monument Valley, Arizona), Svobodnaya Koreya. See Free Korea Peak. 172 Swain, Todd, 321-22 Trango Towers (Karakoram Range, Swanson, Karl, 69-72 Pakistan), 278-79 Swetvam (Garhwal Himalaya), 210 Traverses: Caucasus, 209; Coast Mountains (British Columbia), 179-82; Huascaran, 190; Ladakh-Kashmir, 259; Pataeonian Icecap, 207; Saipal, 252; Stuart Range, T 154 Trimble, Phillip R., 210-11 Tabin, Geoffrey C., 224 Trim&hi Parbat (Garhwal Himalaya), 210 Tackle. Jack Edward. art.. 57-63 Triple Peak, Middle (Kichatna Mountains, Takagi, Kenii, 256 Alaska), 145 Takaiori, Yoshimitsu, 278 Triplets, The (Cascade Mountains, Takeda. Nobuvuki. 241 Washington), 154 Talbott, John H., 113 Tsherim Kang (Chomolhari Range, Taleomey Tower (Coast Mountains, British Bhutan). 210 Columbia), 183 Tsoukias,‘Mike, 245 Tambe, Sadao, 211, 277 Tsurup (Cordillera Blanca, Peru), 189, 191 Tanikawa. Yukitoshi. 279 Tucker, H., 112 Tankha, Colonel, 256 Tukche (Nepal Himalaya), 250-51 Tata Sabaya (Chile), 201 Tungurahua (Cordillera Oriental, Ecuador), Tauber, Hermann, 220 111 Tauewald. G. zum. 112 (Sierra Nevada, Taugwaldkr, R., 1i2 California), 159-60 Tawoche (Nepal Himalava), 220, 221 Tummrrato (Argentina). 199 Temple, Mount (Rocky Mountains, Tupungato (Chyle), 202 Canada), 184 Turtle Lake Walls (Colorado), 174 Tenaya Peak (Sierra Nevada, California), Tusk (Florence Range, British Columbia), 160 179 Tent Peak. See Kirat Chub. Tuyujuto (Cochas, Nevados de, Peru), 113 Terong Valley (Karakoram Range, India), Tuzo, Mount (Rocky Mountains, Canada), 261-66; nomenclature of, 266 184 Tessier, Yves, 7-13 Twin, North (Rocky Mountains, Canada), Thackray, John, 312 art., 73-79

354 INDEX

U Watters, Ron, 178-79 Webster, Edward, 171, 174 Udall, Mark, 287-88 Weiland, John, 47-55 Uematsu, Mitsuo, 288 Weng, Peter, 274 Ullman, James Ramsey, 112 Whale’s Back (Sierra Nevada, California), Ullu-Kara-Tau (Caucasus, USSR), 209 159 Ullu-Tay-Chana (Caucasus, USSR), 209 Wheelwright, William, 115 Ulrich, Ronald J., 190 Whiskey Peak (Charleston Range, Nevada), Ulugh Muztagh (Sinkiang, China), art., 163 27-38; altitude of, 37-38 White, Gene F., 286 United States, 139-75 White Sail. See Dharamsura. Untch, Steven, 191 Whitesaddle Mountain (Coast Mountains, Upton, W., 112 British Columbia). 182 Urioste, Joanne, 161-65 Whitney, Mount (Sierra Nevada, Urus Oeste (Cordillera Blanca, Peru), 190 California), 156 Ushba North (Caucasus, USSR), 209 Whizz Dome, North (Sierra Nevada, USSR, art., 21-26; 209, 304-306 California), 159 Utah, 165-72 Wiedman, Michael, 310-12 Utah: Peak 7905, 171 Wiessner, Fritz, 113 Wilford, Mark, 47-55, 175 V Wilson, David, 97-100 Wilson, Robert A., 272 Vail], Edward E., 328-30 Wind River Range (Wyoming), 172-73 Valley of Fire State Park (Nevada), 160-61 Wood, Sharon, 81-86 Van Sprang, Gerard C., 292 Wood, Walter A., 113 Velvet Wall (Black Velvet Canvon, Wook, Heo, 207 Nevada), I63 Woolums, Scott, 244 Venables. Stephen, 261-66 Womer, Stefan, 290 Venezuela, 18’7 Wrangell Mountains (Alaska), 149 Vennum, Walter, 179 Wrangell Mountains: Peak 7205, 149; Peak Veraguer, Jordi, 185-86 8205, 149 Vermeulen, Jim, 315-16 Wtiermann, Peter, 255 V&go (Mtrida, Sierra Nevada de, Wymer, G., 112 Venezuela), 187 Wyoming, 172-73, 175 Vigouroux, Ivan, 202 Villarrica (Chile), 114 Vinson Massif (Sentinel Range, X Antarctica), 207-209; &rude of, 208 “Vug Tar.” See Kichatna Mountains, Peak X-Rock (Colorado), 174 8055. W Wach, Danuta, 246 Y Waddington, Mount (Coast Mountains, British Columbia), 18 1, 182 Yackulic, Charles F. (Fred), 154, 155 Waddinaton Range (Coast Mountains. Yacuma Aguja (Cordillera Real, Bolivia), British Columbia), 179-82 196 Wadi Rum (Jordan), 306-307 Yagihara, Kuniaki, 210, 228, 242 Wang Zheng-Hua, 27-38 Yaks Wall (Pinnacles National Monument, War Drum Peak (Coast Mountains, British California), 156 Columbia), 183-84 Yalung Kang (Sikkim Himalaya), 213-14 Washington, 151-54 Yamada, Noboru, 240 Waterbury, G., 112 Yamazaki. Junichi, 52 W$ns, Mount (Yosemite, California), Yamazaki, Tomoyasa, 279 Yamazaki, Yuwa, 150

355 THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL 1986

Yana Punta (Cordillera de Potosi, Bolivia), Yoshida, Kenji, 268 196 Young, Steven, 178 Yanasinga (Cordillera Central, Peru), I14 Yucumani. See Candarave. Yantauri. See Rurigallay. Yukon Territory, 175-79 Yasui, Yutaka, 299 Yulong Shan (Yunnan Province, China), Yasumura, Jun, 243 303-304 Yatlincasa (Cordillera de Potosi, Bolivia), 196 Yedhe Mountain (Rocky Mountains, Canada), 184 Z Yermakov (Soviet climber), 2 l-26 Yerupajl (Cordillera Huayhuash, Pent), Zabaleta, Martin, 16-19 114, 194 Zafren, Ken, 147, 149 Yerupajd Norte (Cordillera Huayhuash, Zanzi (Chile), 202 Peru), 194 Zam (Karakoram Range, Pakistan), 279 Yerupaja Sur (Cordillera Huayhuash, Peru), Zam II (Karakoram Range, Pakistan), 279 194 Zawada, Andrzej, art., 7-13 Ying, Dao-Shui, 234 Zenta Range (Argentina), 196-97 Yosemite (Sierra Nevada, California), Zimmermann, Ralf, 184 157-58 Zwickl, Karl Robert, 258

356