INDEX Volume 28 l Issue 60 l 1986 Compiled by Patricia A. Fletcher This issue comprises all of Volume 28 Mountains are listed by their official names and ranges; quotation marks indicate unofficial names. Ranges and geographic locations are also in- dexed. Unnamed peaks (e.g., Peak 2037) are listed following the range or country in which they are located. All expedition memberscited in major articles are included, whereas only the leaders and persons supplying information in the Climbs and Expeditions section are listed. Titles of books reviewed in this issue are grouped as a single entry under Book Reviews. Abbreviations used: Article: art.; Bibliography: bibl.; Obituary: obit. A Aconcagua (Argentina), 112, 114, 197-200; parachute descent of, 200 Abi Gamin (Garhwal Himalaya), 253 Adams, B., 114 Abra (Cordillera de Potosi, Bolivia), Adams, W., 114 196 Adlok Peak (Baffin Island), 185 Abrego, Mari, 293-95 Aeolian Tower (Utah), 168 Acay (Argentina), 197 Agssuassat (Greenland), 186 Accidents: Aconcagua, 200; Ama Dablam, Agua Blanca (Culata, Sierra de la, 22 1; Annapuma Dakshin, 245; Broad Venezuela), 187 Peak, 269; Denali, 140, 141; Everest, Airport Tower. See Aeolian Tower. 227-28, 29.5, 298-99; Garhwal, Peak Alaska, arts., 57-63, 65-68, 69-72; 139-5 1 6131, 257; Gaurishankar, 236; Gurja Alaska Range, arts., 57-63, 65-68, 69-72; Himal, 251; Himalchuli, 240; K2, 268, 139-45, 147 271; Kamet, 252; Kang Guru, 242; Alaska Range: Peak 5350, 147; Peak 6210, Kangchenjunga, 215; Kangchungtse, 147; Peak 6290, 147; Peak 7290, 147 219-20; Langtang Lirung, 237; Lhotse, Aide, Carlo, 220 229, 232; Lukpilla Brakk, 282; Manaslu, Aleutian Range (Alaska), 147-48 239; Masherbrum, 277; McGinnis Peak, Altar (Ecuador), 188 145; Nanga Parbat, 288, 290; Pabil, 238; Altar Group (Ecuador), 188 Patagonian Icecap, 207; Rakaposhi East, Abanico (Merida, Sierra Nevada de, 285; Saser Kangti II, 261; Siula Grande, Venezuela), 187 194; Tawoche, 221; Thalay Sagar, 256; Ama Dablam (Nepal Himalaya), art., Yalung Kang, 213-14 16-19; 220-23 341 THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL 1986 Amarillo (Zenta Range, Argentina), 196-97 Avalanche Peak (6443m) (Garhwal American Alpine Club, The: Alaska Himalaya), 209 Section, 150-51, 334; Cascade Section, Avalanches: Kashmir, 259 334-35; New York Section, 335-36; Sierra Nevada Section, 336 Anaroyo. See Cunurana. B Andes (South America), early ascents in, art., Ill-16 Baba, Hiroyuki, 218 Andrews, Rosamond C., art., 47-55 Baffin Island (Canada), art., 39-45; 185 Angdu Ri (Himachal Pradesh), 258 Bagley, John, 39-45 Annapuma (Nepal Himalaya), 242-43 Baichechekay (Tien Shan, USSR), 304-305 Annapuma II (Nepal Himalaya), 243 Bailey, H., Ill-12 Annapuma III (Nepal Himalaya), 244 Bailey, Solon, 11 l-12 Annapuma IV (Nepal Himalaya), 244 Bakewell, Anderson, 113 Annapuma Dakshin (Nepal Htmalaya), 245 Bakree Peak (Karakoram Range, Pakistan), Annapuma South. See Annapuma Dakshin. 279 Antarctica, 207-209 Balconies (Pinnacles National Monument, Anyemaqen (Kunlun Mountains, China), California), 157 293 Balog, James, 258 Anyemaqen IV (Kunlun Mountains, Balyan Bashi (Tien Shan, USSR), 304 China), 293 Baranek, Janusz, 256 Aota, Htroshi, 224 Barisyonok, Oleg, 21-26 Aprin, Hooman, 16-19 “Barmal Peak” (Jammu and Kashmir), 258 Arabesque Towers (Coast Mountains, Barrachina (Greenland), 186 British Columbia), 182 Barrakhs (Jordan), 306 Arch Canyon (Bridges National Monument, Barrard, Liliane. 217-18, 268 Utah), 168-69 Barrard, Maurice, 217-18, 268 Arches National Park (Utah), 168 Barrille, Mount (Alaska Range), 144; Arctic, 185 ascentsof, 143 Arenas, Cerro (Chile), 203 Baruntse (Nepal Himalaya), 220 Argentina, arts., 97-100, 101-9; 196-201, Bass, Richard, 208, 225 203-206 Batard, Marc, 223 Argonaut Peak (Cascade Mountains, Bates, Robert H., art., 27-38; 33 1 Washmgton), 154 Batwinas, Dan, 175 Arizona, 172 Bear Mountain (Cascade Mountains, Arizona Mountaineering Club, 336 Washington), 152-53 Arko, Vojslav, 203-204, 205-206 Bear’s Tooth (Alaska Range), 144 Arranz, Alejandro, 223-24 Bear’s Tooth (Wind River Range, Asia, 209-304 Wyoming), 172 Asperity, Mount (Coast Mountains, Bebie, Mark, 152-53 British Columbia), 181 Beckey, Fred, 172, 182-84 Astier, Yves, 200, 203 Beghin, Pierre, 297-98 Astillado (Patagonia), 206 Belak, Stane, 249-50 Atanasov, Boian, 243 Beorchia, Antonio, 196-97, 200-201 Atillaborgen (Staunings Alps, Greenland), Bepler, Thomas C., 39-45 186 Berbeka, Maciej, 7- 13 Atter, Mount (Greenland), 186 Bergamaschi, Arturo, 293 Aucanquilcha (Chile), 113 Bering, E., 113 Ausangate (Cordillera Vilcanota, Peru), Berkman, Martin, 7-13 195 Berljak, Darko, 189-90 Austin, Waddell, 112 Bernard, Jean-Pierre, 258 Avalanche Peak (6196m) (Garhwal Betancourt, Jose, 187 Himalaya), 210 Bhagirathi I1 (Garhwal Himalaya), 255-56 342 INDEX Bhagtrathi III (Garhwal Himalaya), 256 Human Adaptation, Amitabha Basu and Bharte Khunta (Garhwal Himalaya), 210 Kailash C. Malhotra, edttors, 309 Bhrtgupanth (Garhwal Himalaya), 256 Le jeu de la montagne et du hasard, Bhutan, 209, 210-l 1 Anne Sauvy, 315 Btanchi, Cesare Cesa, 255 Joe Dodge: One New Hampshire Big Thompson Canyon (Colorado), 175 Institution, William L. Putnam, Bighorn Mountains (Wyoming), 175 316-17 Bingham, Hiram, 112 KlhmanJaro: The White Roof of Africa. Bishop, Robert H., II3 Harald Lange, 322-24 BJomstad, Eric, 165-69, 172 Konsatsu Gaikoku Sanmei Jiten (A Black Velvet Canyon (Charleston Range, Concise Dictionary of Names of Nevada), 161-63 Foreign Mountains), lchiro Blackadar, Mount (Saint Elias Mountains, Yoshizawa, 325 Yukon Territory), 178-79 Medicina de Montana, Eusko Jaurlaritza, Blanch, Conrad, 297 editor, 3 IO Blanchard, Barry, 73-79 Medicine for Mountaineering, Third Bobisghir (Karakoram Range, Pakistan), Edition, James A. Wilkerson, editor. 279 310-l I Bogomolov, G., 21-26 Menlove: The Life of John Menlove Bogomolov, S., 21-26 Edwards, Jim Perrin, 319-21 BoJor, Ovidiu, 251 Mountameering First Aid, Third Edition, Boks (Tien Shari,, USSR), 304 Martha J. Lentz, Stephen C. Bolivar (Merida, Sierra Nevada de, Macdonald and Jan D. Carline, 311-12 Venezuela), 114, 187 Off the Beaten Track, Elizabeth D. Bolivar (Santa Marta. Sierra Nevada de, Woolsey, 3 I9 Colombia), I 13 Parque National Huascaran, Bolivia, 195-96 Ancash-Peni, Jim Battle, 324-25 Bona, Mount (Saint Elias Mountains, Shawangunk Rock Climbing, Richard Alaska), 149 Bonington, Christian, 225-26 DuMais, 32 1-22 BOOK REVIEWS Two Generations, Edmund and Peter Breaking Point, Glenn Randall, 315-16 Hillary, 317-18 Chaltel (Fitzroy), Carlos Capellas, BorJon, Ernest Charles, 334 editor, 324-25 Borlte, Jacques, 186 La Cordillera Real de 10s Andes, Boyer, Jean-Pierre, 258 Bolivia, Alain Messili, 324-25 Braham, Trevor, 278 Eric Shipton: The Six Mountain Travel Bramona i Rams, Ram&r, 186 Books, 3 I2 Brand, Eric, art., 39-45 Everest: De 10s Andes al Himalaya, Breashears, David, 21-26 Gaston Oyarzdn, 3 14 Bridges National Monument (Utah), 168-69 Everest Grand Circle: A Climbing and Bridwell, James D., 302-303 Skiing Adventure through Nepal and British Columbia, arr., 73-79; 179-85 Tibet, Ned Gillette and Jan Reynolds, Broad Peak (Karakoram Range, Pakistan), 312-13 267, 268-69, 289 Everest 1982, USSR Mountaineering Brookes, Austin, 298 Federation, 313-14 Brooks Range (Alaska), 148 Everest: The Testing Place, John B. Brown, Keith, 303 West, 308-309 Brownstone Wall (Jumper Canyon, Expedition Medicale Francaise en Nevada), 165 Himalaya, Jean Paul Richalet, editor, Buhler, Carlos, art., 81-86; 184 310 Biihler, Ueli, 199 High Altitude Deterioration, J. Rivolier, Buracchio, Christian, 202 P. Cerretelli, J. Foray and P. Burchfiel, Clark, 27-38 Segantini, editors, 309 Burgher, Peter H., 147 343 THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL 1986 C Chimney Rock (Cascade Mountains, Washington), 153 Cabot, Thomas, 113 China, arf., 27-38; 209, 293, 302-304 Cachi (Argentina), 197 China. See also Tibet. Calcagno, Gianni, 292-93 Cho Oyu (Nepal Himalaya), art., 7- 13; California, 155-60 234-36 Campanile Esloveno (Argentina), 201 Cho Oyu (Tibet), 234 Canada, 175-85 Chobutse (Nepal Himalaya), 236 Candarave (Cordillera Occidental, Peru), Chochia (Soviet climber), 21-26 III Cholatse (Nepal Himalaya), 220 Canonigo (Ecuador), 188 Chomolhari Range (Bhutan), 210, 21 I Canyonlands National Park (Utah), 168, Chongtar. See Spender, Mount, 169, 171 Chopicalqui (Cordillera Blanca, Peru), 191 Cari Cari (Cordillera de Potosi, Bolivia), Chomii, Nicholas, 21-26 196 Chorten Peak (Karakoram Range, India), Carihairazo Este (Ecuador), 188 266 Carter, H. Adams, 113, 114, 315 Chrobak, Eugeniusz, 7- I3 Casarotto, Renato, 272 Chuculai (Chile), 201 Cascade Mountains (Washington), 151-54 Chugach Mountains (Alaska), 148-49 Cashan Este (Cordillera Blanca, Peru), 191 Cbugach Mountains: Peak 6148, 148; Peak Castillo (Cocuv, Sierra Nevada de, 6206, 148; Peak 6313, 148; Peak 6339, Colombia), i87 148; Peak 6650, 148; Peak 6985, 148; Castle, Philip, 194 Peak 7080, 148;Peak 7111, 148,Peak Catedral (Argentina), 201 7234, 148; Peak 7327, 148, Peak 7500, Cathedral Spires (Kichatna Mountains, 148; Peak 7689, 148 Alaska), ascents of, 143 Church, Walter Stuart, I1 I Caucasus (USSR), 209 Clevenger, Vem I55 Cauthom, Daniel W., 153, 181-82 Climbing exchanges: Japanese, art.. 47-55; Cayambe (Ecuador), 114, 188 150-5 I Cayesh (Cordillera Blanca, Peru), 190 Clinch, Nicholas B., 27-38 CB 13a (Himachal Pradesh). 258 Coast Mountains (British Columbia), Celestial‘Peak (Sichuan Province, China), 179-84 303 Cochas, Nevados de (Peru), 1 I3 Cergol, Luciano, 245 Cocuy, Sierra Nevada de (Colombia), I87 Chakraborty, Pranesh, 252 Cohen, Geoffrey, 275 Chand, Prem,