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Makgadikgadi Complex TRAVELZONE The sprawling Nxai, Ntwetwe and Sua saltpans – remnants of an ancient super-lake – together constitute the mammoth 12 000km2 Makgadikgadi complex. STEPHEN CUNLIFFE took a Toyota Hilux to investigate this oft-overlooked national park first-hand. PHOTOGRAPHY: STEPHEN CUNLIFFE ost seasoned overland travellers equate these Makgadikgadi is as much an emptiness as a place, mes- vast saltpans in northern Botswana with an arid merising in its enormity and arid beauty: a humbling sight M expanse of hallucinatory white nothingness: an to even the most seasoned Toyota adventurer. The hori- other-worldly lunar landscape broken only by the occa- zonless pans play tricks on the mind, while disorientating sional rocky outcrop, such as ethereal Kubu Island, and heat mirages incinerate all sense of spatial awareness. Im- sporadic clumps of ancient baobabs that stand watch over aginary lakes shimmer seductively on the horizon only to the glaring salt like desert sentinels. vaporise upon closer inspection; ostriches learn to fly; and While a portion of this enchanting landscape is indeed stones metamorphose into floating mountains. encompassed within the Makgadikgadi Pans National There’s no denying that the blinding white saltpans are Park, the lion’s share of this relatively unknown reserve a hypnotic place and well worth exploring, but this is the actually conserves huge swathes of savannah grassland Makgadikgadi of the rainless winter months. By the time that play host to Southern Africa’s most impressive zebra we showed up in December, the sizzling heat of the late migration, and riverine woodlands that harbour elephant dry season had given way to billowing cumulus clouds herds to rival Chobe in their destructive magnitude. and thrilling thunderstorms. LEFT: After the rains, some greenery has emerged in areas away from the banks of the river inside the Makgadikgadi National Park. 52 53 TRAVELZONE 1. When the water level is low, the floodplain TRAVEL along the banks of the Boteti River can be used as ADVISORY a roadway. / 2. There is no confusion as to where Vehicle preparation: to go – roads and destinations are well marked. We travelled in a Toyota Hilux 2.5 D-4D 4×4 SRX. Although fitted with Continental World Contact tyres, the diesel double-cab overcame the waterlogged roads, thanks to the bakkie’s excellent four-wheel drive and low-range capabilities. A hardcore off-road vehicle would be best if you want to explore Makgadikgadi during the rains, but any 4×4 with reasonable clearance – soft-roaders included – should be okay during the dry winter months. Essential gear: Although sandy in patches, the road conditions in Makgadikgadi Pans National Park are mostly reasonably good, so visitors can probably get away with minimal recovery gear. A spade, high-lift jack, extra fuel and way out of the park and struck up a conversation. Driving sufficient drinking water are mandatory. Sand tracks, a Toyota Hilux Raider from Bushlore 4×4 Hire in Joburg, a GPS and satellite phone Jason had spent the previous three days exploring the would come in handy, park along with neighbouring Nxai Pan. especially if you plan to “Last night we had a massive storm here, so I’d be explore the saltpans. careful if you plan to explore the pans,” he cautioned. When to go: Perilous during “But the game viewing around Khumaga has been the rains, the dry season of excellent. During my drive yesterday afternoon, I ended up May to October is the best surrounded by a herd of close to a hundred elephant at (and safest) time to explore one point, and then the lions kept me awake all night the sun-baked seas of salt. with their roaring.” It’s also always worth asking The Boteti is currently the only source of permanent wa- park staff whether there has ter in the reserve, ensuring a wildlife bonanza of note. Dense been any recent rain, and ONLY FOOLS SET IN the unforgiving clay after unwisely attempting to cross destination is home to a handful of rejuvenated the dusty river, which concentrations of elephant dominate the show, while clans what the driving conditions With the onset of the rains, pool- the salty quagmire, we erred on the side of caution and luxury lodges and three basic camp- sprang back to life and surged down of dainty impala and families of curious kudu complete the are like on the pans, before ing water quickly dissolves the sun- opted to rather explore the fringes of the pans and their sites, making Makgadikgadi the near- the western boundary of the national riverine ensemble. The burgeoning elephant population setting out. baked, salty upper crust to expose a adjacent grasslands. exclusive domain of the adventurous park once more. has hammered the vegetation along the riverbank, leav- Fees: Rates are subject thick layer of gooey clay lurking just Owing to the epic scale of the Makgadikgadi saltpan 4×4 aficionado. Luckily, a two-vehicle pontoon ing a wake of widespread devastation that is, in many ways, to change but, as SADC below the pan’s surface – a molten complex, the 3 900km2 national park encompasses only Passing through sleepy Khumaga ferry bobbed a few metres offshore reminiscent of Chobe. residents, we were charged grey-green mush with a consistency a fraction of the overall pan network. Extending from village, our Hilux came to an abrupt and it wasn’t long before a smiling We were also surprised to find an unexpectedly large a daily park fee of 120 pula not dissimilar from wet concrete. the wildlife-rich Boteti River in the west to enormous halt when the swollen Boteti River Otetseng Motlhabani, the amiable number of zebra carcasses littering the floodplain, (R145) per person and 50 Consequently, the pans become a Ntwetwe Pan – the largest of the saltpans – in the east, blocked our way. In 2009, record rain- pontoon captain, appeared. For the giving us an inkling of the harsh challenges faced by the pula (R60) per vehicle per no-go zone for all but the most fool- the Makgadikgadi Pans National Park protects large fall resulted in the highest Okavango price of 130 pula (R150), we were herbivores that throng to the river to assuage their thirst day. These fees can be paid in advance to the DWNP in hardy 4×4 enthusiasts. Having heard swathes of savannah grassland, palm-forested islands and flood level for 25 years and, with the provided with an official receipt and during the dry season. While we saw plenty of elephant Gaborone, or settled in cash stories of reckless vehicles becom- Boteti River woodland, along with the western reaches of Boteti forming the main outflow safe passage across the river. On the along with a raft of hippo at the aptly named Hippo Pool, upon arrival at the gate. ing irretrievably bogged down in Ntwetwe Pan, within its confines. This lesser-known safari for the delta, the rising water levels eastern shore, we met Jason on his most of the game herds had already trekked eastwards. 54 55 TRAVELZONE 1 3 5 1. The Khumaga ferry and Park rules: The speed limit is its friendly captain Otetseng 40km/h and off-road driving Motlhabani provide a way of is not permitted. Stick to the crossing the Boteti River. designated tracks and drive / 2. After dark, enjoying camp only during daylight hours. life. / 3. Lodges like Jack's Fauna or flora removal, along Camp, San Camp and Camp with firewood collection, is strictly prohibited. Kalahari offer a low-impact way of exploring the terrain, by quad Fuel: No fuel is available bike . These ones are diven inside the national park by anti-poaching rangers on and the nearest place to fill patrol. / 4. The friendly smile up is in Gweta or Rakops. If approaching from the west, of Otetseng. / 5. There is no it’s worth fuelling up in shortage of game of any variety. Maun (164km from the main gate) as the smaller centres occasionally run dry. In the 4 east, Nata (141km from the 2 main gate) also has fuel. Petrol and diesel are cheaper in Botswana than in SA. Shopping: The best place to stock up on braai meat and fresh produce and other supplies is Maun. We made use of the well-stocked Spar supermarket and bottle store located across the road next to the airport. Firewood can be purchased alongside the main road in Maun or sometimes in the villages outside the park. Maps and directions: With the latest version of MINI SERENGETI As we drove east, away from the Boteti woodlands, the Parks (DWNP) researchers conduct- by a dazzling display of black-and- providing a temporary water source for the zebra herds Tracks4Africa loaded on the GPS, it’s hard to get lost, The fabled elephant herds were not trees and thickets soon gave way to a nutritious green ing a census of the migrating zebra. white stripes. passing through the area. but a back-up compass is the primary reason for our choosing carpet that stretched as far as the eye could see – an Well-versed in the local conditions, The best place to stay in order to While there is considerably less wildlife (outside of the a good idea if exploring to visit Makgadikgadi – and certainly attractive landscape punctuated by the occasional palm they informed us that attempting observe the zebra parade is at one zebra migration) to be found on the seasonal eastern the featureless expanses not during the summer rains, when tree island along with a plethora of small seasonal pans. to cross the expansive Ntwetwe Pan of the park-administered wilderness plains as opposed to alongside the perennial Boteti River, of massive Ntwetwe or Sua many of the grey behemoths had Transformed by the rain for a few short months, the would be suicidal at this stage, as the campsites, conveniently located the rustic campsites at Njuca and neighbouring Tree Island pans.
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