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The sprawling Nxai, Ntwetwe and Sua saltpans – remnants of an ancient super-lake – together constitute the mammoth 12 000km2 Makgadikgadi complex. STEPHEN CUNLIFFE took a Toyota Hilux to investigate this oft-overlooked national park first-hand.

PHOTOGRAPHY: STEPHEN CUNLIFFE

ost seasoned overland travellers equate these Makgadikgadi is as much an emptiness as a place, mes- M vast saltpans in northern with an arid merising in its enormity and arid beauty: a humbling sight expanse of hallucinatory white nothingness: an to even the most seasoned Toyota adventurer. The hori- other-worldly lunar landscape broken only by the occa- zonless pans play tricks on the mind, while disorientating sional rocky outcrop, such as ethereal Kubu Island, and heat mirages incinerate all sense of spatial awareness. Im- sporadic clumps of ancient baobabs that stand watch over aginary lakes shimmer seductively on the horizon only to the glaring like desert sentinels. vaporise upon closer inspection; ostriches learn to fly; and While a portion of this enchanting landscape is indeed stones metamorphose into floating mountains. encompassed within the Makgadikgadi Pans National There’s no denying that the blinding white saltpans are Park, the lion’s share of this relatively unknown reserve a hypnotic place and well worth exploring, but this is the actually conserves huge swathes of savannah grassland Makgadikgadi of the rainless winter months. By the time that play host to Southern ’s most impressive zebra we showed up in December, the sizzling heat of the late migration, and riverine woodlands that harbour elephant dry season had given way to billowing cumulus clouds herds to rival Chobe in their destructive magnitude. and thrilling thunderstorms.

LEFT: After the rains, some greenery has emerged in areas away from the banks of the river inside the Makgadikgadi National Park.

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1. When the water level is low, the floodplain TRAVEL along the banks of the can be used as ADVISORY a roadway. / 2. There is no confusion as to where Vehicle preparation: to go – roads and destinations are well marked. We travelled in a Toyota Hilux 2.5 D-4D 4×4 SRX. Although fitted with Continental World Contact tyres, the diesel double-cab overcame the waterlogged roads, thanks to the bakkie’s excellent four-wheel drive and low-range capabilities. A hardcore off-road vehicle would be best if you want to explore Makgadikgadi during the rains, but any 4×4 with reasonable clearance – soft-roaders included – should be okay during the dry winter months. Essential gear: Although sandy in patches, the road conditions in Makgadikgadi Pans National Park are mostly reasonably good, so visitors can probably get away with minimal recovery gear. A spade, high-lift jack, extra fuel and way out of the park and struck up a conversation. Driving sufficient drinking water are mandatory. Sand tracks, a Toyota Hilux Raider from Bushlore 4×4 Hire in Joburg, a GPS and satellite phone Jason had spent the previous three days exploring the would come in handy, park along with neighbouring . especially if you plan to “Last night we had a massive storm here, so I’d be explore the saltpans. careful if you plan to explore the pans,” he cautioned. When to go: Perilous during “But the game viewing around Khumaga has been the rains, the dry season of excellent. During my drive yesterday afternoon, I ended up May to October is the best surrounded by a herd of close to a hundred elephant at (and safest) time to explore one point, and then the lions kept me awake all night the sun-baked seas of salt. with their roaring.” It’s also always worth asking The Boteti is currently the only source of permanent wa- park staff whether there has ter in the reserve, ensuring a wildlife bonanza of note. Dense been any recent rain, and ONLY FOOLS SET IN the unforgiving clay after unwisely attempting to cross destination is home to a handful of rejuvenated the dusty river, which concentrations of elephant dominate the show, while clans what the driving conditions With the onset of the rains, pool- the salty quagmire, we erred on the side of caution and luxury lodges and three basic camp- sprang back to life and surged down of dainty impala and families of curious kudu complete the are like on the pans, before ing water quickly dissolves the sun- opted to rather explore the fringes of the pans and their sites, making Makgadikgadi the near- the western boundary of the national riverine ensemble. The burgeoning elephant population setting out. baked, salty upper crust to expose a adjacent grasslands. exclusive domain of the adventurous park once more. has hammered the vegetation along the riverbank, leav- Fees: Rates are subject thick layer of gooey clay lurking just Owing to the epic scale of the Makgadikgadi saltpan 4×4 aficionado. Luckily, a two-vehicle pontoon ing a wake of widespread devastation that is, in many ways, to change but, as SADC below the pan’s surface – a molten complex, the 3 900km2 national park encompasses only Passing through sleepy Khumaga ferry bobbed a few metres offshore reminiscent of Chobe. residents, we were charged grey-green mush with a consistency a fraction of the overall pan network. Extending from village, our Hilux came to an abrupt and it wasn’t long before a smiling We were also surprised to find an unexpectedly large a daily park fee of 120 pula not dissimilar from wet concrete. the wildlife-rich Boteti River in the west to enormous halt when the swollen Boteti River Otetseng Motlhabani, the amiable number of zebra carcasses littering the floodplain, (R145) per person and 50 Consequently, the pans become a Ntwetwe Pan – the largest of the saltpans – in the east, blocked our way. In 2009, record rain- pontoon captain, appeared. For the giving us an inkling of the harsh challenges faced by the pula (R60) per vehicle per no-go zone for all but the most fool- the Makgadikgadi Pans National Park protects large fall resulted in the highest Okavango price of 130 pula (R150), we were herbivores that throng to the river to assuage their thirst day. These fees can be paid in advance to the DWNP in hardy 4×4 enthusiasts. Having heard swathes of savannah grassland, palm-forested islands and flood level for 25 years and, with the provided with an official receipt and during the dry season. While we saw plenty of elephant Gaborone, or settled in cash stories of reckless vehicles becom- Boteti River woodland, along with the western reaches of Boteti forming the main outflow safe passage across the river. On the along with a raft of hippo at the aptly named Hippo Pool, upon arrival at the gate. ing irretrievably bogged down in Ntwetwe Pan, within its confines. This lesser-known safari for the delta, the rising water levels eastern shore, we met Jason on his most of the game herds had already trekked eastwards.

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1 3 5 1. The Khumaga ferry and Park rules: The speed limit is its friendly captain Otetseng 40km/h and off-road driving Motlhabani provide a way of is not permitted. Stick to the crossing the Boteti River. designated tracks and drive / 2. After dark, enjoying camp only during daylight hours. life. / 3. Lodges like Jack's Fauna or flora removal, along Camp, San Camp and Camp with firewood collection, is strictly prohibited. Kalahari offer a low-impact way of exploring the terrain, by quad Fuel: No fuel is available bike . These ones are diven inside the national park by anti-poaching rangers on and the nearest place to fill patrol. / 4. The friendly smile up is in Gweta or . If approaching from the west, of Otetseng. / 5. There is no it’s worth fuelling up in shortage of game of any variety. Maun (164km from the main gate) as the smaller centres occasionally run dry. In the 4 east, Nata (141km from the 2 main gate) also has fuel. Petrol and diesel are cheaper in Botswana than in SA. Shopping: The best place to stock up on braai meat and fresh produce and other supplies is Maun. We made use of the well-stocked Spar supermarket and bottle store located across the road next to the airport. Firewood can be purchased alongside the main road in Maun or sometimes in the villages outside the park. Maps and directions: With the latest version of MINI SERENGETI As we drove east, away from the Boteti woodlands, the Parks (DWNP) researchers conduct- by a dazzling display of black-and- providing a temporary water source for the zebra herds Tracks4Africa loaded on the GPS, it’s hard to get lost, The fabled elephant herds were not trees and thickets soon gave way to a nutritious green ing a census of the migrating zebra. white stripes. passing through the area. but a back-up compass is the primary reason for our choosing carpet that stretched as far as the eye could see – an Well-versed in the local conditions, The best place to stay in order to While there is considerably less wildlife (outside of the a good idea if exploring to visit Makgadikgadi – and certainly attractive landscape punctuated by the occasional palm they informed us that attempting observe the zebra parade is at one zebra migration) to be found on the seasonal eastern the featureless expanses not during the summer rains, when tree island along with a plethora of small seasonal pans. to cross the expansive Ntwetwe Pan of the park-administered wilderness plains as opposed to alongside the perennial Boteti River, of massive Ntwetwe or Sua many of the grey behemoths had Transformed by the rain for a few short months, the would be suicidal at this stage, as the campsites, conveniently located the rustic campsites at Njuca and neighbouring Tree Island pans. We also received a dispersed. It was the tantalising tales verdant grasslands teemed with game. Without warning, pan had already transformed into a in the east of the park. Secluded do offer an idyllic savannah wilderness experience far from useful A4 photocopied map of a mysterious zebra migration – large herds of zebra – drawn by the green flush – began salty marsh. Njuca Hills Campsite is probably the the madding crowd. And, if you’re lucky, you might even of the national park free of second only to the Serengeti-Mara appearing on the rambling plains. Their numbers swelled However, the track that hugged best known of the two DWNP sites, get to see one of the resident cheetah that range across charge at the park gate. spectacle – that drew us to Makgadik- rapidly, with herds, often over a hundred strong, converg- the fringe of the pan – crossing although very few people venture these grassy plains in search of steenbok sustenance. We entered the park from gadi at this time. ing on Gutsa Pan and the western fringe of Ntwetwe Pan myriad narrow channels between out to stay there. Makgadikgadi is also renowned for its nocturnal the west at Khumaga, Triggered by the onset of the to take advantage of the seasonal bounty. Accompanied the islets and spits along the pan’s Although I am a big fan of creatures and, although night drives are not permitted, making use of an efficient annual summer rains, the pans play by the occasional wildebeest imposter, the zebra throng western shore – would be no prob- Njuca and its wilderness vibe, the odds of seeing an aardvark or brown hyena skulking little pontoon ferry to cross host to the largest surviving zebra rubbed shoulders with a handful of hardy oryx and unim- lem for our Hilux. The researchers I have to admit that Tree Island around your campsite are considerably better here than the Boteti River. The park movement in Southern Africa. From pressed ostriches. I let out a whoop of delight that the rains invited us to follow them and see for Campsite is my favourite. Enjoy- in most other places. While the antbear eluded us on our can also be accessed from December to March each year, Africa’s and herds had arrived on schedule, ensuring we were for- ourselves. We didn’t need a second ing an epic setting surrounded by visit, we were fortunate enough to enjoy a fabulous late the north at Phuduhudu second largest zebra gathering takes tunate enough to catch the start of this impressive influx. invitation and spent a thoroughly wide-open grasslands, the site over- afternoon sighting of a foraging brown hyena. main gate (best access point to/from Nxai Pan), place on the edge of the Kalahari with During the two days we spent exploring the zebra- enjoyable day in their shadow, looks a couple of small, seasonal pans. Makolwane in the north-east, an estimated 30 000 of them flooding bedecked eastern plains, we bumped into just one other adventuring along the muddy By the time we showed up, these or Xirexara in the east. into the park. vehicle belonging to Department of Wildlife and National fringes of Ntwetwe while surrounded had been recharged with rainwater,

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2 Medical advice: Northern Botswana is a malaria area, so take the necessary precautions; prophylactics are advised. Watch out for the potent summer sun, always keep well hydrated, and carry a comprehensive first aid kit. Border formalities: Overlanders approaching Botswana from Kimberley via Mafikeng will make use of the Ramatlabama border post (6am–10pm), while those travelling from Gauteng have a choice between three convenient 1 crossings – the tried-and- tested Skilpadshek/Pioneer 3 4 HEADING BOTH WAYS concrete details or timelines were forthcoming. Gate (6am-midnight), After a couple of days marvelling at the growing zebra horde, we The final stop on our Makgadikgadi escapade was the privately the trucker’s choice departed Tree Island Camp and opted for the southern route back to run Khumaga Campsite. Operated by the SKL group, the 10 stands Kopfontein/Tlokweng Khumaga. Zebra were plentiful during the early stages of our jour- at Khumaga occupy a shady spot high above the Boteti River. The Gate (6am–midnight), or the comparatively serene ney, but when the grasslands gave way to denser scrubland, they spotless ablution blocks with their solar-heated showers and flush Swartkopfontein/Ramotswa vanished to be replaced by the occasional kudu and, later, gangly toilets were a welcome treat. While previous visitors had complained Gate (7am–7pm). giraffe as we entered the woodlands. about night-time noise from the village across the river, all we heard From the south-west corner of the reserve we swung north again, was the chorus of a million serenading frogs and the guttural grunts We found both sides of the carefully negotiating a never-ending bird’s nest of tangled wires of lion roaring in the distance. border to be friendly and alongside the park’s dilapidated western boundary fence. Mean- Enjoying a hearty braai on the final evening, my colleagues and efficient. Remember all foreign-registered vehicles dering through this minefield of knotted wires and shattered fence I raised a mug of merlot to the majestic Makgadikgadi. We were in entering Botswana need posts, we came across – on more than one occasion – the bizarre unanimous agreement that this diverse national park offers much to pay a Botswana road tax scene of elephants vacating the reserve while cattle wandered in the more than simply a springboard from which to explore the saltpans. 5 of 140 pula (R168) at the opposite direction. Park staff later informed us that there are plans While the park may not have the same predator-viewing potential as border. This fee cannot be to rehabilitate and shift the electric fence across the river, but no some of its more illustrious neighbours, it does boast mesmerising paid in rand. Credit cards are sometimes accepted (if card machines are online), but it pays to have some pula cash on you to avoid unnecessary delays. 4aKid offers amazing baby and children safety products and toddler gear that are both affordable and make parents 1. A spectacular sunset lives easier. over the pans. / 2. Not every camp has the Visit our website www.4akid.co.za to view our full range necessary facilities, and landscapes and picturesque wilder- all provisions need to be or email [email protected] for catalogues. ness campsites, along with some of brought in. / 3. Mammals the finest elephant and zebra viewing like this meerkat abound. Tel: 0116568290 to be found anywhere in Africa. Dry / 4. Elephant sightings Cell:082 447 1182 or wet, the Makgadikgadi is a year- are frequent. / 5. A Email: [email protected] round destination that demands to solitary brown hyena out be incorporated into any overland on the prowl. Website: www.4akid.co.za adventure through northern Bot- swana.

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NXAI PAN NATIONAL PARK

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7 6 1 Khumaga Campsite 1 5 3 2 Njuca Hills 2 4 3 Tree Island Camp MAKGADIKGADI 4 Jack’s Camp, San Camp NATIONAL PARK 5 Camp Kalahari 6 Leroo La Tau 7 Meno A Kwena Tented Camp 8 8 Kubu Island Community Campsite 9 Old Bridge Backpackers

WHERE TO STAY With enviable locations on the scenic eastern dation in Maun. You can pitch your Camping inside Makgadikgadi edge of National Park, the three own tent or crash in one of their ful- National Park is restricted to three camps of Unchartered Africa – Jack’s Camp, San ly furnished en-suite tents. A good beautiful sites. With 10 shady stands, Camp and the more affordable Camp Kalahari – restaurant, lively bar and refreshing running water and two fully serviced offer some of Botswana’s premier safari accommo- swimming pool complete the pack- ablution blocks, the most popular dation to those with a little extra cash to burn. Visit age. www.maun-backpackers.com; place to pitch a tent is the Khumaga www.unchartedafrica.com or tel 011-447-1605. tel +267-686-2406. Campsite, which is managed by the Desert and Delta Safari’s luxurious Leroo La Tau is When passing through Gabo- private SKL group based in Maun. located on the western boundary of Makgadikgadi rone, we stayed 10km south of the [email protected]; National Park. The lodge’s 12 opulent canvas suites en- capital at the excellent Mokolodi tel +267-686-5365/6. joy stupendous cliff-top views over the Boteti River with Backpackers (www.backpackers. Botswana’s Department of Wild- animals flocking to the perennial waters during the dry co.bw) alongside the Mokolodi life and National Parks (DWNP) runs season. www.desertdelta.com; tel +267-686-1243. Nature Reserve. You can either the other two Makgadikgadi camp- Low-impact, solar-powered Meno A Kwena camp next to the swimming pool or ing areas. In the grassy eastern sec- Tented Camp has just eight comfortable en-suite stay in one of the comfortable en- tor, Njuca Hills and neighbouring tents overlooking the wildlife-rich Boteti floodplain. suite chalets with fully equipped Tree Island Camp offer five idyllic www.menoakwena.com; tel +267-686-0981. kitchenette. admin@backpack- wilderness campsites between A community trust administers the 14 wilderness ers.co.bw or tel 072-043-6255 (in them. Facilities at each site are lim- sites of the Kubu Island Community Campsite, which ) and +267-7411-1165 ited to a bucket shower, long-drop sit alongside a ghostly, baobab-encrusted granite kop- (in Botswana). toilet and braai pit. There is no wa- pie in the south-west of . Each stand has its Further information: visit www. ter at either, and visitors need to be own long-drop toilet and stone fireplace; otherwise botswanatourism.co.bw or get hold self-sufficient. You can try contact- visitors need to be self-reliant. www.kubuisland.com; of Lonely Planet’s latest Botswana ing the DWNP office in Gaborone tel +267-297-9612 or +267-7549-4669. and Namibia travel guide (3rd edi- ([email protected]), although you Located on the outskirts of Maun, the cheerful Old tion); consult www.zebramigration. might have more luck on tel Bridge Backpackers is a perennial favourite, boasting org for more on Southern Africa’s +267-318-0774 or +267-397-1405. unquestionably the best budget-friendly accommo- premier zebra spectacle.

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