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Thailand: Mystical Asia, March 3-18, 2019 Tropical Birding - Trip Report

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Thailand: Mystical Asia, March 3-18, 2019 Tropical Birding - Trip Report Thailand: Mystical Asia, March 3-18, 2019 Tropical Birding - Trip Report A Tropical Birding SET DEPARTURE tour Thailand: Mystical Asia March 3-18, 2019 Blue Pitta is an absolutely stunning bird and one of the many great reasons to visit Thailand. TOUR LEADER: Phil Chaon, Report and photos by Phil Chaon www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-9110 [email protected] p.1 Thailand: Mystical Asia, March 3-18, 2019 Tropical Birding - Trip Report INTRODUCTION Thailand is a place that needs to be visited to be understood. Whether it is for the legendary food, the spectacular temples, or the pristine beaches millions of people make the journey to this country, some time and again. Among the myriad of reasons to visit the Kingdom of Thailand, the birdlife is paramount for a select few who will be treated to a slice of the country experienced by few. With an incredible variety of habitats, a country list hovering around 1000 species, and comfortable, easy travel Thailand is truly a world class birding destination. In only two and a half weeks, we saw well over 500 species including many of Thailand’s most sought after birds. Birding the famous coastal wetlands of Pak Thale we found what is considered by many to be THE bird in Thailand – Spoon-billed Sandpiper. The supporting cast of hundreds of thousands of shorebirds including the endangered Nordmann’s Greenshank made the searching all the more exciting. Heading inland to the steamy hills of Kaeng Krachan (Thailand’s largest national park) we tracked down the full compliment of Broadbills, Banded Kingfisher, Scaly-breasted and Bar-backed Partridges and the celestial Blue Pitta. Turning north to Khao Yai National Park we toured the rolling hills, towering forests and open plains in search of Silver Pheasant and Siamese Fireback, which we came up with in a thrilling last minute encounter. A rare encounter with a flock of Brown Hornbills and a sublime sunset with the mind-blowing Great-eared Nightjar were a fantastic bonus. Our long journey to Himalayan influenced northern mountains was highlighted by an incredible evening spent with the otherworldly Green Peafowl. We reached new birding heights at the peak of Thailand’s highest mountain where in the cool mossy forests we tracked down shy Rufous-throated Partridges, the mouse-like Pygmy Cupwing and a glittering cadre of sunbirds. Following Doi Inthanon, we watched Pin-tailed Pigeons and Great Barbets from the golden spires of the Tham Pha Plong temple en route to the majestic gardens of Doi Ang Khang. The manicured orchards and flowerbeds of the Ang Khang Royal Projects held many avian delights - from the gargantuan Giant Nuthatch to the crimson-blushing Scarlet-faced Liocichla this location offered spectacular birds and ideal viewing situations in a spectacular locale. Our last major site, Doi Lang may have been a case of saving the best for last. Everything fell into place as we were greeted by a long-staying Ultramarine Flycatcher before reaping the benefits of an incredible flowering tree where Gray-headed and Spot-breasted Parrotbills held court with the legendary Himalayan Cutia. A displaying Hume’s Pheasant could not have been more cooperative, rearing up and beating the air as if he and his mate where the only living creatures around. A final dash to see an elusive Rusty-naped Pitta was a great end to this incredibly successful tour. Thailand is full of surprises, great birds and varied experiences. Even veteran birders will see new species after multiple trips and newcomers to Asia can expect hundreds of lifers and a broad exposure to the region’s classic families. It is easy to see why Thailand is a perennial favorite for guides and clients alike. March 3rd: Bangkok to Pak Thale After a brief introduction the night before and an evening shaking off the jet lag, we were all eager to begin our journey through the spectacular kingdom of Thailand. Navigating the mega-city of Bangkok, the teeming www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-9110 [email protected] p.2 Thailand: Mystical Asia, March 3-18, 2019 Tropical Birding - Trip Report metropolis slowly gave way to suburbs and small towns before we reached a patch of mangroves in a small coastal village by mid-morning. Our first birding foray into the mangroves quickly turned up two specialists of this endangered habitat – Mangrove Whistler and Golden-bellied Gerygone, the only members of their respective families in Thailand. Apart from the specialties we had our first encounters with a host of common birds that would become familiar over the coming weeks – Malaysian Pied Fantail, Olive-backed Sunbird, and Great Mynas. Quickly jumping back in the van we continued south west along the narrow roads through the endless maze of rice- paddies, salt pans and shrimp farms that make up coastal Thailand. With the near constant distraction of herons, storks, and kingfishers we arrived at an isolated lake to check for some decidedly less numerous waterbirds. A scan of the teeming waters revealed a cohort of new birds. A pair of Black-headed Ibis joined the groups of strutting Great Egrets and slinking Chinese Pond-Herons working the flooded grasses right in front of us. Large groups of Indian and Little Cormorants sat drying their wings in the sun and several massive Spot-billed Pelicans sat in the distance along with our only Eurasian Wigeons of the trip. By the point, the day was truly hot and with Black Kites kettling overhead we finished the drive to our hotel for a midday break. Black-necked Stilt is an impossibly elegant resident of wetlands all over Thailand With things cooling down by mid-afternoon we made the short drive to shorebird mecca of Pak Thale. A series of active salt-pans, this small coastal area is one of the most important shorebird wintering ground in Asia and home to several endangered species, including the legendary Spoon-billed Sandpiper. The scene was nearly overwhelming – after passing dozens of workers actively collecting salt, we reached an undisturbed impoundment teeming with birds. Working our way through the flock we were immediately drawn to a mixed group of lanky and long-billed Black-tailed and Bar-tailed Godwits. Continuing to scan we swept over Curlew, Broad-billed, and Marsh Sandpipers, Spotted Redshank, Common Greenshank, Temminck’s, Long-toed and Red-necked Stints. Sneaking down a narrow channel, we found our first major target for the area – the oddly proportioned and increasingly rare Chinese Egret. Buoyed by our success we pressed on searching through thousands of small sandpipers in hopes of finding the grail bird of the perhaps the entire trip. In spite of some careful scanning, and many new species there was no sign of the spoonie and with light fading we left to regroup before redoubling our efforts in the morning. www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-9110 [email protected] p.3 Thailand: Mystical Asia, March 3-18, 2019 Tropical Birding - Trip Report March 4th : Pak Thale to Kaeng Krachan Rising early, we drove north to Pak Thale, ready for a rematch with Spoon-billed Sandpiper. Along the way we stopped near a small salt-storage barn to scan an irresistibly large roosting group of shorebirds. Among the thousands and thousands of Great Knots, we spotted several ghostly pale waders – the critically endangered Nordmann’s Greenshank, second only to the Spoon-billed in rarity. A couple more sweeps turned up large numbers of Kentish Plover, Greater and Lesser Sand-plover and an odd Malaysian Plover, well out of its normal habitat. Less than 20 minutes later we were back on the narrow roads of Pak Thale, winding past colorful Painted Storks, cackling Collared Kingfishers and dozens of elegant Black-necked Stilts we headed back to the largest concentration of shorebirds. We sifted for hours, rapidly filling out our shorebird list with all the regular wintering birds – impossibly long-billed Eurasian and Far Eastern Curlews, Common Redshanks, Red Knot, golden Ruffs, and wary Wood Sandpipers. Small islands of drying mud were packed edge to edge with Chinese and Javan Pond-Herons, petite Little Terns and swarms of White-winged and Whiskered Terns. With hundreds of thousands of birds and only two Spoon-billed Sandpipers, they had won yet another round. Vowing to return for a third and final round, we headed inland towards the sprawling forests of Kaeng Krachan National Park. After a short nap in our shady bungalows (decked out in luxurious dark hardwood and with a mercifully powerful AC unit) and a brief visit with a pair of roosting Brown Boobooks, we wound our way into the surrounding hills and down a small private road. Parking at a small pull-out we were met by the landowner and led down a small winding path to a hide. Nearing the end of a remarkably parched dry season, birds and mammals from all over were attracted to the small water feature placed Bar-backed Partridge has become remarkably confiding just outside of in the forest by the hide’s Kaeng Krachan. operator. As we sat in silence birds slowly began to appear – a group of rotund and animated Bar-backed Partridges scurried through, while an oddly familiar Red Junglefowl strutted through the clearing. A shy but vibrant Asian Emerald Dove paced the margins while more daring passerines headed directly for the tantalizing water. A noisy and gregarious group of blue-eyed Racket-tailed Treepies ran the scene while Black-crested Bulbuls, Brown-cheeked Fulvetta, and Tickell’s Blue Flycatcher made quick visits to bathe and drink. A group of stunning White- browed Scimitar Babblers made an appearance and the rare and impressive Large Scimitar Babbler would www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-9110 [email protected] p.4 Thailand: Mystical Asia, March 3-18, 2019 Tropical Birding - Trip Report have been bird of the evening if not for the final visitor.
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