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Fashion Shame ISSUE THREE VESTOJ On Fashion and Shame PARIS, 2012 TEX TS VESTOJ FLASH FICTION Shameful: . Page 24 Mirror . Page 80 Dr Niall Richardson in conversation with Buck Angel by Will Wiles The Green Shades of Shame: . Page 27 The Scarlet Letter .....Page 105 How Shame Procrastinates Engagement with the Sustainability Imperative in Fashion by Nathaniel Hawthorne by Dr Mathilda Tham Before the Great War .....Page 115 Table Lighten Up, It’s Just of Fashion! .....ContentsPage 38 by Adam Biles by Lisa Ehlin Badge of Shame .....Page 178 Docile Bodies: . Page 48 by Madelaine Levy A Study of Prison Uniforms and the Dress of Subservience by Anja Aronowsky Cronberg Red Petals . Page 192 by Erin Byrne Shameless Trespassing: . Page 67 On Cultural Transits, Immodest Exposure and the Grotesque Body Good Wives . Page 225 by Dr Ane Lynge-Jorlén by Louisa May Alcott Laver’s Law . Page 79 W ITH A R T W O RKS BY by James Laver Christian Coinbergh: Page 12–14, 23–25 Convulsive Beauty: . Page 82 Annika von Hausswolff: Page 36–37, 228 Some Notes Towards an Archaeology of Shame Scott King: Page 43–46 by Donatien Grau Julie Roberts: Page 64–65 Emma Löfström: Page 66, 71–74 Dressed Up and Laying Bare: . Page 90 Camille Vivier: Page 82–86 Fashion in the Shadow of the Market Tim Rollins & K.O.S: Page 104, 107 by Anna Arabindan-Kesson Columbine Goldsmith: Page 108–109, 238 Anuschka Blommers & Niels Schumm: Page 110–111 The Dismembered Body: . Page 124 (Hidden) Willem Andersson: Page 112–113 Notes on Fashion, Fetish and Shame Carlotta Manaigo: Page 114, 119 by Marya Hornbacher Laurindo Feliciano: Page 120–122, 155–157 Max Farago: Page 158–159 Fashion and the Fleshy Body: . Page 162 Jen Davis: Page 160–162, 167–174 On Dress as Embodied Practice David Dunan: Page 183, 185, 187, 189 by Dr Joanne Entwistle Thomas Engel Hart: Page 196 Matthias Vriens-McGrath: Page 198–199 Makeovers in the New Millenium: . Page 180 Jessica Craig-Martin: Page 200–203 A Story of Shame and Salvation in a Different Key Jason Evans: Page 204–205 by Dr Brenda R. Weber Marilyn Minter: Page 206–207 Anthony Cotsifas: Page 208–209 My Favourite Things . Page 197 Julia Hetta: Page 210–211, 215–218 by Hannah Smith-Drelich Rick Castro: Page 229 Tova Mozad: Page 230 Styling Modesty . Page 210 Lisa Rovner: Page 235 by Professor Reina Lewis Mason Poole: Page 236–237 4 5 shame’ originates with the symboliC birth of mankind; from it we have attempted to delve into this multifaCeted and Complex subjeCt matter in as many different ways as we have found interpretations of the theme. In all ages Clothes have been used as a marker of shame. In seventeenth century England and Scotland the branks, an iron muzzle with a bridle, often spiked and pressing down on the wearer’s tongue, was a Common deviCe used for punishment and publiC humiliation. We Can read about the dunCe Cap in the 1840 Letter from the editor novel The Old Curiosity Shop by Charles DiCkens and a deCade later Nathaniel Hawthorne gives a moving aCCount of Hester Prynne in The Scarlet Letter, a woman in seventeenth Century Puritan Boston, forCed to wear the symbol of her Crime stitChed on her Chest. We have seen the yellow Star of David and the pink triangle Come and go as well as the striped and arrowed prison uniform, and not long ago we got used to spotting the orange Abu Ghraib jumpsuit on the baCks of those detained at the Baghdad CorreCtional FaCility. These are just a few examples we have Come aCross; the list of garments assoCiated with our shame is long and diverse. *** Our topiC is, however, not restriCted to Clothing and aCCessories Created to speCifiCally shame their wearer. The Clothes I N GO Y A ’ S S K ETCH For being born somewhere else we wear in our everyday life are also full of shaming potential; we see a man wearing a sanbenito and a Coroza hat, the garments garments meant to proteCt and provide ConfidenCe often fall short of shame during the Spanish Inquisition; he is turned away from us, and leave us feeling vulnerable and exposed. Imagine, for example, covering his face with his hands. His body language is not so dissimi- the embarrassment of being turned away at a fashion show in all lar from what our impulse would tell us to do, were we in his shoes. your finery or of turning up at an important event and finding that Shame is personal, but also universal: we blush, cast our eyes down, someone else is wearing the same dress as you. Or go baCk to that lower our heads and seek to hide from prying eyes. Whereas guilt time when you left the bathroom at your lover’s house, it was the first Causes us to feel regret about something we have done, in shame our dinner with the parents, and your flies were undone. Or reCall the very selves are up for painful judgment. Shame allows us to see moment that you, surrounded by friends, got out of the water only ourselves in the eyes of others, and here its link to dress is at its to discover that your new bathing suit had become completely trans- most potent. parent. Or maybe you remember when your favourite white trousers For us this journey began with Adam and Eve, banished deCided to turn on you and proClaim to the world that today you got from the Garden of Eden by a wrathful God – the beginning of con- your period. Fashion and Clothing has this effeCt on us. It renders us sCiousness, shame and also Clothing. Our exploration of ‘fashion and self-conscious of our fashionable selves, or lack thereof, and the feel- 6 7 ing of shame can surface all too easily when we see ourselves through This is the third issue of Vestoj HQ is still located on For this issue we want to Vestoj. It was published in the beautiful rue Beranger, in extend our humble gratitude to the gaze of others. Fashion prompts us to judge ourselves and those spring 2012. the heart of Le Marais, in a the following: around us. It forCes us to faCe up to the shame of not belonging, the house with heavy doors that Institute for Fashion Design, Vestoj was typeset in Arial, goes under the number 7. The Academy of Art and Design shame imposed on others for not dressing the part, the shame of not designed by Monotype and postcode is still 75003, and HGK, Basel and Jimmy K.W. being able to partiCipate in fashion beCause of a body type deemed Georgia, designed by Matthew the city is still Paris. Now you Chan of Semeiotics Inc – Carter. It was printed and can probably guess that this is without them you would not ‘wrong’ or a wallet deemed too meagre. bound by Strokirk-Landströms Paris, France, not Paris, Texas, be holding this issue in your in Lidköping, Sweden. The Paris, Ontario or even Paris, hands right now. paper stocks used are Arctic Kiribati. On another note, did *** Gloss and Munken Print you know that Kansas City is ColophonWhite 15, both provided by also called Paris of the Plains? Arctic Paper, as was the paper And that Saskatoon is also The system and industry born to Cater to our desires is as stock used for the cover – known as Paris of the Prairies? Arctic Gloss 300g. The cover is paradoxiCal as it is Complex and few are the areas so often shamed embossed and decorated with If you want to reach us to say by outsiders. Child labour, overproduCtion and Consumption, narrow a hot foil supplied and applied something nice or to let us by Laminator, Sweden. know that we could have done We would also like to point ideals of beauty and environmental damage are just a few of the sore so much better, the address is out that Jimmy has very kindly points that concern those of us who love fashion. Yes, fashion is in- We have an ISSN number! [email protected]. If you want donated 150 copies of Vestoj It’s 2000-4036. You can more Vestoj and can’t be arsed to Parsons The New School for deed a system that is easily Condemned. SuperfiCial, fiCkle, frivolous buy Vestoj from all the best to wait around for another year Design. Thank you Jimmy! and indulgent – there are few inveCtives that have yet to be hurled (obviously!) newsstands and (yes, that’s how long it takes stores around the world, and us!), you can stay updated on There are some others too at fashion. Conscientious fashion lovers have no doubt asked them- also directly from us. Look at our Facebook account or at who have been worth gold to the website for details, www.vestoj.com and you can us, they are: Ciléne Andréhn selves many times over whether fashion as we know it Could survive www.vestoj.com. always follow the progress of Andréhn-Schiptjenko, without the material abundanCe we have beCome aCCustomed to or of the next issue on our blog, Terry Craven, Akari Endo- The views expressed in Vestoj www.vestoj.com/current/ Gaut, Michelle Lamy, Danielle the ideals we have Created that at all times egg us on in our quest to sometimes coincide with the Dreier, Priska Morger, Palais always be better, brighter versions of ourselves. Fashion seems to editors’, but then again other Vestoj is a non-profit de Tokyo and, as always, the times they don’t.
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