CHRONICLE 03

The revolution in skin care The fi rst years of INTRODUCTION

From laboratory to daily life

A start with obstacles

Great innovations change people’s routines. That is no the skin made it easier to maintain youthfulness and different today than it was over 100 years ago. New beauty. NIVEA Creme was not always particularly cheap, discoveries in medicine, technology, electronics, and but nonetheless it was affordable for a wider market. chemistry make long-term changes to our lives. Even One could say that this innovation was destined for global crises cannot hinder such developments – at success. However, the First World War began quite best merely slow them down. soon after its introduction in , bringing largely In the early 20th century, three men laid the basis for to a halt the distribution of the new cream and the great changes in the everyday life of many people by expanded assortment of products under the same isolating the emulsifi er Eucerit and consequently using name. The post-war period, plagued by infl ation and this to develop NIVEA Creme. Until that time, skin care hyperinfl ation, did not exactly contribute to improving as such had not played much of a role. Most people market conditions. Nonetheless, the brand overcame simply used water and soap for cleansing. The new these early obstacles to become the largest skin care cream could transfer moisture into skin that was brand in the world. And that is not all – a change in look frequently damaged, which led to the prevention of and a new communication strategy led in the following many dermatological problems. In addition, caring for years to it even becoming a brand icon.

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FOCUS

NIVEA changes skin care

Three very different people and a new kind of emulsifi er were required for NIVEA Creme to revolutionize skin care forever. The snow-white cream, which fi rst entered the market at the end of 1911 in yellow packaging, changed skin care habits in Germany and all over the world.

Troplowitz and Lifschütz at the filling of the first series of NIVEA Creme in the lab, December 1911. Previous double page: NIVEA ad from 1914 "NIVEA Creme, Hair Milk, Powder for the proper care of skin for adults and children to maintain beauty and health".

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BACKGROUND Trademark registration

Apart from soap, which could already be found in When NIVEA Creme came onto the market in the NIVEA assortment from 1906, many December 1911, the NIVEA brand was already six consumers used fatty creams for skin care. The years old. In the summer of 1905, ads from 1913 show the target group of the new brand next to the new NIVEA products: socially registered the brand name at the Imperial Patent Offi ce well-off women. under the number 82840. On November 9, 1905, the brand was registered in the trademark registry, protect- ing it. The brand name was fi rst used a few months later when “Beiersdorf’s Rich Base Soap” was renamed “NIVEA Soap.” But the brand name’s real fi rst appear- ance was with the introduction of NIVEA Creme onto the market. With its derivation from Latin (nix or nivis, meaning snow), Troplowitz created a pleasant name that rolls off the tongue all around the world.

Text: Thorsten Finke The emulsifi er Eucerit over because the new salve base possessed none of these drawbacks. Moreover, in comparison to , >> At the beginning of the 20th century, skin care was The chemist Isaac Lifschütz made the breakthrough in Eucerin could absorb many times more water. a diffi cult matter. In the German Empire it was mostly 1898. In a long series of tests, he succeeded in Lifschütz recognized that his invention opened limited to using soap and fatty cream, and there were isolating a substance out of the fat of sheep’s wool – groundbreaking possibilities in medicine. Articles only a few creams available with consistent quality. Eucerit – with which water and oil could be combined published by dermatologist Awareness of the importance of skin care was not yet to create a stable emulsion – Eucerin. Eucerit was the confi rmed that Eucerin was wonderfully suited for very widespread, and each druggist and pharmacist basis of the “method for the manufacture of a highly dermatological purposes. had his own special mixture. water-absorbent salve base” that Lifschütz was given In 1909, in order to produce and market Eucerin in But the main problem was on another level: most in 1902. The name comes from Greek and means great style, Lifschütz joined the board of the company creams and salves consisted of plant-based or “beautiful wax.” Hegeler & Brünings Fett & Seifenwerke AG in Aumund animal-based oils and spoiled quickly. The few In 1882, Otto Braun had already patented the near Bremen. He brought the usage rights of his products that were produced based on mineral oils emulsifi er Lanolin. With Lanolin it was possible to patent with him to this position. The Eucerin was lasted longer, but couldn’t penetrate into the deeper produce a water-absorbent salve base, but it had produced in a new plant. Dres. Mielck & Runge from layers of the skin and transport moisture into the cells. signifi cant drawbacks in smell, shelf life, and consis- the Schwanen-Apotheke in took over Registered with the Imperial Patent Offi ce since 1905: This changed with the discovery of a new kind of tency. Pharmacists had only used it because there just distribution. the brand NIVEA emulsifi er. wasn’t any other option. But those days were now Resounding success never came, however, BBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBB

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BACKGROUND The fathers of the cream

which Lifschütz mostly attributed to poor marketing. Three men revolutionized Lockstedter Weg (today continued them at the But an offer that he had received a few years earlier skin care with NIVEA Unnastraße). His most University of Freiburg in from Oscar Troplowitz now seemed more interesting to Creme. The key to their important achievement Breisgau, where in 1884 him than ever: Troplowitz, owner of the company success was the diverse was the establishment of he gained his doctorate in P. Beiersdorf & Co., wanted to develop a cosmetic skills that they each brands like Labello and chemistry. In the product with Eucerin – skin cream. This wasn’t actually brought with them. NIVEA, which are still following years, one of his the direction that Lifschütz had wanted to take with his popular today. Troplowitz major research occupa- patent, but the offer was good and the prospects was convinced that brand tions was with the wool promising. After long and diffi cult negotiations, they articles of reliable quality wax derived from sheep’s At that time, scientists fi nally came to an agreement. at Beiersdorf and whose usefulness to wool. In 1898 he had his Paul Gerson Unna, researched the skin in the consumer was well breakthrough: Lifschütz the scientist numerous laboratory documented would be a isolated the emulsifi er (1850–1929) Purchase of Eucerin factory rooms. With the production process for successful concept for the Eucerit from the raw In 1906, Paul Gerson Unna had already made Troplo- Eucerin that had been future. The entrepreneur, material. In 1900, he After graduating from witz aware of Isaac Lifschütz’s patented Eucerit and patented in 1902 by Dr. who was both customer- registered the patent for high school, Paul Gerson Isaac Lifschütz, the salve base Eucerin. Troplowitz had been working research could be and market-oriented the manufacturing Unna studied medicine at with the dermatologist Unna since he had taken over advanced and reached and from the beginning process for a salve base the Universities of the company in 1890. Unna made fi rst contact with a first milestone thought and acted inter- derived from the Eucerit Heidelberg, Leipzig, and in 1911 with the new Lifschütz, but the gentlemen couldn’t come to an NIVEA Creme. Oscar Troplowitz, nationally, also kept in production process. The Strasbourg. In 1881, he agreement. It was not until 1911 that Lifschütz allowed the brand maker mind the scientifi cally dermatologist Dr. Paul opened a private der- himself to be convinced by Troplowitz and sold him (1863–1918) based further develop- Gerson Unna recognized matology clinic on the entire Eucerin factory, including the patent. ment of his products. the signifi cance of Eucerit Dammtorstraße in At that time, the production of cosmetic products After graduating from for dermatology and Hamburg. It was during in Troplowitz’s company was still in its infancy. Only high school, training to discussed the emulsifi er this time that he fi rst soap, toothpaste, hand cream and a new kind of lip be a pharmacist, and in his monthly dermatolo- came in contact with Paul BBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBB balm were already listed among the products of studying chemistry at the gical journal. Despite all C. Beiersdorf, with whom P. Beiersdorf & Co., but they were just a fraction of the CONTEMPORARY WITNESS Universities of Breslau the scientifi c recognition, Unna developed a process assortment, which overwhelmingly consisted of and Heidelberg, Oscar the greatest success of for the production of plasters. The new cream supplemented the category “Yes, the NIVEA Creme is not Troplowitz made his way Lifschütz’s discovery only medicinal plasters – the of cosmetic products, and Troplowitz thought Eucerin yet finished. The packaging isn’t to Hamburg with a doc- became apparent when date of the associated had a big future as the basis for additional products. there yet. And I’m not sure if toral degree in pharma- the chemist came to patent from 1882 is today In the summer of 1911, the Eucerin factory was moved cology. There he bought Beiersdorf in 1911. still considered the day to Hamburg-Eimsbüttel, and by fall it was ready for it’ll work. … Introducing a new the laboratory of Paul C. Eucerit became a raw the company of Beiers- operation. product like this is a tremendous Beiersdorf in Altona and Isaac Lifschütz, material for the skin dorf was born. Unna also amount of work and is causing built it into a company. the inventor cream NIVEA, making got along extremely well NIVEA Creme enters the market He immediately arranged (1852–1938) an essential contribution with Beiersdorf’s quite a lot of headaches.” for the use of technical to the economic rise of successor, Dr. Oscar In Hamburg NIVEA Creme emerged out of the Eucerin resources for produc- Lifschütz began his the company. Troplowitz, and contin- salve base blended with plenty of water and subtle From a letter from Manager Behrens to stock keeper Böhme on tion and in 1892 had studies in Switzerland ued their successful perfume. Many attempts were necessary to reach November 26, 1911 his own factory built on when he was 18 and collaboration. the perfect ratio of the water-in-oil emulsion. The scent, which is still a trademark of the cream today, BBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBB BBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBB

10 Beiersdorf Chronicle · 03 Beiersdorf Chronicle · 03 11 The first tin for NIVEA Creme These two early ads from 1912 artistically put the target group for NIVEA – 1911 – products at center stage.

took a particularly long time to develop. After the fi rst came out without illustrations; it simply explained the bread or eight glasses of beer. The brand name NIVEA milk and powder. The fi rst luxury packaging made of series was successfully tested in the lab, mass use and composition of the new product. Starting in – derived from the Latin nix or nivis, meaning snow – porcelain with a special scent came onto the market. production could begin. Because the packaging 1912, there were illustrated ads and posters, which perfectly suited the radiant white cream. Starting in 1914, Beiersdorf expanded its products to wasn’t fi nished at the same time, the cream was fi rst primarily displayed the product and the female target include special products for the sensitive skin of advertised in December 1911 and then became group. Assortment expands children and enlarged the powder assortment. After available in drugstores. Initially the cream entered the market in three tin the First World War began, there were no more new The fi rst print ads for NIVEA Creme advertised it as and two tube sizes. The large, yellow 150-milliliter tin After NIVEA Creme had become available in drug- NIVEA products, only a powder packed in small paper “indispensable for daily skin care for adults and decorated in art nouveau style cost one mark, which in stores from the end of 1911, 1912 quickly saw the bags for fi eld soldiers was launched in 1915. In 1922 children, and for massages.” This fi rst advertising 1911 in Hamburg was the equivalent of two loaves of expansion of the cosmetic assortment to include hair with the introduction of NIVEA soap, men

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Soap Creme Hair Milk Powder Porcelain Luxury Packaging Children s Powder Complexion Powder Sport and Massage Powder

1906 1911 1912 1912 1914 1914 1914 1914

12 Beiersdorf Chronicle · 03 Beiersdorf Chronicle · 03 13 Shortly after the war, inflation hit Germany. At its height in 1923, ludicrous sums of money were printed that were often already worthless on the next day. NIVEA prices also climbed to dizzying heights. November 1, 1923

25 Creme stagnated at a modest level, and despite the were printed with the changed brand names, including billion marks assortment’s expansion, success remained below Great Britain, the Netherlands, Switzerland, and the expectations. And nothing changed when the war Scandinavian countries. Because the renaming wasn’t ended, because the next problem was already at the executed in all markets, it was evident that the door: economic crisis and hyperinfl ation once again countries were able to make this decision put the brakes on the success of NIVEA products. At independently. the height of infl ation in November 1923, a tin of NIVEA However, just a few years later, products all over In 1915, German November 10, 1923 soldiers confiscate a car Creme in Germany cost 800 billion marks. the world were once again brought under the NIVEA from the Beiersdorf brand. In 1925, Beiersdorf changed the design – this vehicle fleet. Something 12 0 brought success and saved the brand. After the that was probably also billion marks The end of NIVEA? in their baggage – “yellow era” of NIVEA’s initial years, the new beginning NIVEA foot powder for November 20, 1923 After the currency was stabilized, the Beiersdorf Board radiated in a powerful blue. << soldiers, which faced the question in 1924 whether the brands in their appeared in that year. current form could be saved at all. The toothpaste 800 brand Pebeco was much more successful and had billion marks already left NIVEA far behind in sales. This presented a logical solution to the problem. The took center stage, having only been on the margins of War and infl ation toothpaste Pebeco, part of the Beiersdorf assortment the target group until then. since 1905, was well accepted by consumers and sold In the 1920s, Beiersdorf devoted more attention to The First World War threw Europe into great turmoil. brilliantly before and after the war. So why not from hair care as well, introducing liquid chamomile and Many factory workers were drafted into military this point forward market the NIVEA assortment under coal tar soap from NIVEA. In 1924, there were already service, metal packaging and raw materials for the the name Pebeco, which also pointed to the company 18 NIVEA products in about 60 types of packaging on production of NIVEA products were almost impossible that manufactured it, P. Beiersdorf & Co.? This the pricelist. At trade fairs and exhibitions both at to supply, and prices had to be increased several marketing strategy would make it possible to unify a By no means just a theory: a cardboard display from Great home and abroad, the products were brought closer to times. Moreover, people in Europe had greater majority of the cosmetic products under one favorably Britain from 1925 shows that the renaming of NIVEA to Pebeco consumers and druggists. concerns than the care of their skin. Sales of NIVEA seen brand umbrella. In some countries new pricelists took place in some countries.

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Sweat Powder Compact Powder Gold-Creme Bath Soap Coal Tar Soap for the Head Oil-Free Cream Children s Cream

1914 1920 1922 1923 1923 1923 1924 1924

14 Beiersdorf Chronicle · 03 Beiersdorf Chronicle · 03 15 BLUEPRINT 1913

The Berlin graphic artist Josef Löwenstein signed his poster designs for numerous German Hans Rudi Erdt (1883–1925) was companies with the name “JOE one of the leading designers of LOE.” His elegant work made NIVEA and art artistic advertising posters of his him one of the best-known time. He was based in Berlin and poster artists in the Berlin scene. his design commissions included He did work for NIVEA between work for Opel, as well as fi lm 1912 and 1914. Biographical The art-lover Oscar Troplowitz posters. His special focus was on details such as his date of birth the so-called object poster, which and date of death are unknown. understood how to acquire the was devised to place the product outstanding artists of his time for in the foreground. NIVEA ad campaigns. 1913

At the beginning of the 20th century, product advertisements began to be thought of as able to increase sales and the degree of brand awareness. For Oscar Troplowitz, however, the aesthetic requirement was as important as the advertising message. For this reason, he had many campaigns created by the outstanding advertising artists of his time – a path that the company continued even after his early death in 1918. Troplowitz and his successors contracted leading graphic artists in the advertising industry via the Berlin agency Hollerbaum & Schmidt, artists like Hans Rudi Erdt and Julius Gipkens, whose posters document the zeitgeist and are of extraordinary artistic quality. Even the internal graphics department of Beiersdorf created many designs that are in no way inferior to the big 1913 1922 names. Today the rare original posters from the early NIVEA days can be found in museums and graphic Little is known about the Hamburg-born collections all over the world. artist Anna Lünemann. She developed numerous motifs for Beiersdorf in the early 1920s. The poster shown here reflects the French Art Deco style that was emerging at that time.

In addition to creating poster art, 1912 The painter Friedrich Ahlers- Julius Gipkens, born in 1883, also was a friend of designed furniture, among other Hestermann Oscar Troplowitz, whom he met things. He was a member of the Graphic artists from the Beiersdorf in Paris. He designed a Deutscher Werkbund (German Work Advertising Department also humorous advertising motif for Federation) and one of Berlin’s most designed many advertising NIVEA in which he depicted the outstanding ad artists. This campaigns. Their unsigned works modern woman with elements of representation of an athletic, active are also of high quality. This object Egyptian culture. This piece woman refl ects a changed, modern poster very likely comes from the remains his only foray into the image of women. Gipkens died in company’s own studio. advertising world. Later he 1968 in New York. became director of the Hamburg 1922 School of Arts. The artist died at the age of 90 in 1973.

16 Beiersdorf Chronicle · 03 Beiersdorf Chronicle · 03 17 PERSPECTIVES

01 at the turn of the century 02

Skin and body care at the beginning of the 20th century were quite different from our customs today in 03 this area of hygiene. People had neither the fi nancial means nor the opportunities in their daily lives and households to consciously devote time 04 to their bodies.

IMPRINT

Publisher: Beiersdorf AG Corporate Communications Corporate & Brand History Unnastraße 48 20245 Hamburg

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01 The daily wash 03 Applying cream Editorial and text: It was typical to quickly wash in the morning, usually with cold Before NIVEA Creme came onto the market, there were already Thorsten Finke water, using soap. Very few households had a bathroom with other creams. But they didn’t have any skin-nourishing running water. Many only had washbasins and washstand properties and were not made of a stable water-in-oil compound. Concept and creation: pitchers, which stood on dressers in bedrooms and were Moreover, they didn’t keep for very long before spoiling. But not Factor, Hamburg normally only used in the morning; the water had to be collected every consumer could use this new kind of cream right away. At from outside from the pump or cistern. Often during the winter the time, applying cream had not yet become a part of our Print: there was even a thin layer of ice on the water in the unheated general cosmetic or hygiene repertoire. Only a small, well-situ- Beisner Druck GmbH & Co. KG, Buchholz i. d. N. rooms. ated group could afford to regularly use cosmetic products. Image credits: iStockphoto (page 18), Shutterstock (page 18). All other motifs: 02 The morning shave 04 Hair care Beiersdorf AG, Corporate & Brand History Archive. Whether the water was icy or not, men used it for cleaning after For special occasions, like going to church once a week, hair grooming their beards. Men shaved almost daily with shaving also became part of the grooming routine. From the beginning Illustrations: soap and a razor, which they sharpened on their own leather of the 20th century, was available in powder form, Gregory Gilbert-Lodge, Zürich belts. In order to soothe and care for their skin, there was which dissolved in water. Alternatively, there was also shampoo powder or wool fat salve, which was becoming more and more that could be used without water. For example, after treating the © 2016 Beiersdorf AG, Hamburg affordable. scalp with hair milk, this could easily be rubbed out with a towel. All rights reserved

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